our internship report on garment printing at THRUPTHI DESIGNERS. bangalore.
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Language: en
Added: Feb 02, 2012
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AN
INTERNSHIP REPORT
ON
“Thrupti Designers”
(GARMENT PRINTERS)
By,
Rajesh. K
Siva Jagadish Kumar.M
Tejas. Kulkarni
Company Profile
•Thrupti Designers - renowned garment printer in
Bangalore.
•Started in the year of 2004.
•Situated at Begur Road, Bangalore as a 2
nd
unit of this
organization.
•It is a first printing unit to get certified with GOTS, &
Organic Exchange certification in Bangalore.
•Production capacity 30,000 pieces/day of single
color.
Infrastructure
•Equipped with following machineries for
production and sampling.
Type No. of Units.
Big Tables (25 meters of each) 02
Pallet Printing Machines 12 ( 10 of 8 colours & 2 of 12 colours)
Curing Machine 01
Digital Pneumatic Fusing Machine 10
Colour Matching Cabinet (Paramount) 01
Air Compressor 01
Diesel Generator 01
Organisation Structure
SCREEN
PRINTING
Screen Printing
•A process, where ink is mechanically applied
to a substrate with the use of a screen and
squeegee.
Colour Separation
•Each colour of the design requires an
individual screen so we must separate the
design into its component colours. This is
done on the computer and each colour
separation is printed to a transparent sheet.
4 Colour Separation
•4-colour process is a more advanced separation and printing technique.
•Uses 4 colours of transparent ink to produce the colours from the original
design.
•The four colours, Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and black (CMYK), are printed as
half-tones that interact with each other and the white background of the
shirt to create colour and tonal values.
Printing Mechanics
•The screen is then mounted in the press and aligned so that
each colour prints in the proper location relative to the other
colours.
•Ink is loaded into the screens and squeegees are installed.
•As the squeegee scrapes across the screen with the ink it fills
the stencil with ink while simultaneously bending the mesh
down to transfer the ink to the shirt.
Screen Printing
Multi Colour Printing
Mesh count
•The mesh count is the number of threads per
inch (tpi) used to weave the mesh.
•Typical mesh counts for screen printing range
from 85 tpi to 355 tpi.
•The high mesh counts, have a very small
thread diameter and less open area.
•Prints require more fineness should be use
finer mesh count.
Plastisol Print
•Good colour opacity onto
dark garments and clear
graphic detail with, as the
name suggests, a more
plasticized texture.
•Plastisol inks require heat
(approx. 150°C) to cure the
print.
•Due to excess phthalate in
PVC, this is banned for
Children’s wear.
Non PVC
•Relatively new breed of ink
and printing with the benefits
of Plastisol but without the
main toxic components - soft
feeling print.
•Suitable for kids wear.
High Density Print
•This is one of the recent
developments in printing which
gives thick prints on the surface
of garments.
•Achieved by either giving more
number of coats or by using
thickener indirect films used
for making the screens.
Suedo Ink Print
•Suede is a milky
coloured additive that is
added to Plastisol. With
suede additive you can
make any colour of
Plastisol have ‘suede’
feel.
•Generally 50% suede
additive to your normal
Plastisol.
Discharge Print
•Used to print lighter
colours onto dark
background fabrics, they
work by removing the
dye already present in
the garment.
•This gives a much softer
texture
Sticker Print
•This is ready to transfer
print.
•The plastisol print is
already printed on paper
and will be transfered on
to garment in the fusing
process.
•The main advantage of
this method is less
expensive.
Pigment Print
•These penetrate the
fabric more than the
Plastisole inks and
create a much softer
feel.
•Also useful for larger
area prints where
texture is important.
Glitter Print
•Metallic flakes are
suspended in the ink
base to create this
sparkle effect.
•Usually available in gold
or silver but can be
mixed to make most
colours.
Metallic Print
•Gives metallic look.
•Similar to glitter, but
smaller particles
suspended in the ink.
•Smooth in texture when
compared to glitter.
Foil Print
•This printing method is
based on the use of
metallic foil paper of
aluminium or copper
one.
•The print fixation
method is similar to
transfer printing. This
print method is popular
amongst youngsters.
Distressed/ Khadi print
•It consists of titanium
dioxide with other
auxiliaries.
•The important factor in
printing of this is right
combination of titanium
dioxide and proper
choice of binder.
Puff Print
•An additive to Plastisol
inks which raises the print
off the garment, creating
a 3D feel.
•In this method when the
paste is printed and dries
it look like normal
printing garments but
once it is cured the prints
gets raised from the
surface of fabric.
Cavier Bead Print
•A glue is printed in the
shape of the design, to
which small plastic
beads are then applied.
•works well with solid
block areas creating an
interesting tactile
surface.
Silicone Print
•To counter inferior wash
and weather durability,
poor hand feel of some
prints like plastisol
printing mills tried
silicone inks because of
their good washing
durability, hand feel,
elongation properties
and environmental
friendliness.
Flock Print
•This process involves
printing of glue on the
fabric first, applying the
fiber flock on the gel
printed by keeping the
fabric on special table
(electro statically
charged).
•It requires a little high
time for curing than
normal prints. 120
seconds at 160C will be
sufficient for curing.
Organic Print
•Organic print range
covers the natural dyes,
and the other pigment
dyes which lies under
the specifications made
by G.O.T.S.
•For Printing Organic
Dyes the company/
manufacturer should
get the certification
from G.O.T.S.
FLOW CHARTS
SAMPLE
PROFI
T
PRODUCTION
Sampling
Process
MACHINES
USED IN
PRINTING
6- COLOUR SCREEN
PRINTING
CAROUSAL PRINTING
MACHINE
These machines will be
available both in automatic
and semi automatic
machines and with 4, 6, 8,
10 & 12 multi colour
models. The double spring
model gives the customers
a maintenance free
performance of the
machine. Electric heat
panels included in the
machine.
DIGITAL FUSING
•Used As Heat Transfer Press,
Designs To Be Transfered To
The Garments / Fabrics /
Leathers/ Rexin /Nylon /
Polyprpelene/ Bags & etc.
•Can be used for fusing like
plastisol priniting, khadi,
pigment & etc.
•Can Be Used As Flat Bed Fusing
Machine For Collar And Cuff
Fusing
•Platen Size Can Be Increased
Up to 20" X 30".
ELECTRIC CURING
MACHINE
•Electric curing used for
fixing the printing paste on
to the printed fabric.
•This is the alternate
method for ‘Line Drying’.
•So that instead of waiting
for 3-5 hours for line
drying, the electric curing
process can be completed
in few minutes.
COLOUR MATCHING
CABINET
(SPECTRA VISION) •Artificial Daylight
Fluorescent Lamps (D-65)
•Tungsten Filament Lamps
(Inc A Lamps)
•Cool White Fluorescent
Lamp (CWF)
•Triphosphor Fluorescent
Lamp (TL-84)
•Ultra-Violet Black Lamp
COST, M.O.Q of the Various Types of
Prints
Print TypeCost of Print in
Rs.
M.O.Q Curing / FusingSuitability for
Children
Durability
Rating
Sticker Print 1 2500 Fusing No 1.5
Plastisole Print 1.5 1000 Fusing No 2.5
Pigment Print 2 1000 Curing Yes 3
Non-Pvc Print 2.5 1000 Curing Yes 2.5
Distressed (Kadi)
Print
2.5 1000 Curing Yes 2.5
Foil Print 3.5 500 Fusing Yes 2
Gel Print 3 1000 Curing Yes 3
Discharge Print 3 500 Curing Yes 3
Glitter Print 3.5 1000 Curing Yes 2
Sugar Print 5 1000 Curing No 2
Metallic Print 4 1000 Curing No 2
High Density Print
(6 Coats)
5 500 Curing Yes 3.5
Puff Print 3.5 1000 Curing Yes 3
Flock Print 5 1000 Curing Yes 2.5
Silicone Print 8 500 Curing Yes 4.5
Organic Print 6.5 1000 Curing Yes 3
Bits Printing 4 2000 Fusing No 2
COST, M.O.Q Analysis for Various
Types of Prints
COST & M.O.Q Analysis for Various
Types of Prints
Printing Defects
•Improper alignment:
–Causes: Improper setting of two different
screens of different colour
•Colour spread:
–Causes: Less viscosity of print paste is less. Base
fabric not fixed properly.
•Improper mixing of print paste:
–Causes: As the name itself implies the print
paste ingredients are not mixed properly leading
to some yellowing or stain marks on print.
•Scrimps:
–Causes: The print is done on folded fabric.
Printing Defects
•Smear
–Causes: Printing is done on seams which will be of
different thickness leading in spreading and blurring.
•Difference in texture
–Causes: Improper fusing
•Improper colour matching
–Causes: If printed colour is not matching with standard.
Printing Defects
•Stick in
–Causes: Some dust and lint which get chock in screen holes
leads in improper design.
•Doubling or blurring
–Causes: Improper fixing of base fabric or screen.
•Lint or thread marks
–Causes: Any loose threads come in print area will lead to
thread marks on print.
•Colour stains
–Causes: Improper handling of material.
Printing Defects
•Glue streak
–Causes: The gum which used to stick garment and/or the gel which is
printed on fabric (for foil, flock etc.) strikes out of fabric through back
side.
•Low sharpness
–Causes: Improper mesh selection , damaged screen.
•Coloured/White spots
–Causes: Improper screen preparation.
•Distorted print
–Causes: printing of second coat before drying 1
st
coat.
•In general 1-3% of defective pieces in bulk order is allowed,
but since the defect occurrence is very less its always less
than the limit
References
Web References
•http://www.gfxsp.com/faq_sp.html
•http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screen_printing
•http://www.cheranfusing.com
•http://www.dowcorning.com/screenprinting
Book Reference
•Screen Printing – A Contemporary Approach, Samuel B. Hoff, Delmar
Publishers, 59.
Industrial References
•Mr. Hanumanth Rao (Manager – Production, Thrupti Designers).
•Mr. Upendra Kant (Manager – Administration, Thrupti Designers).
•Mr. Praveen. S.P. (Sr. Merchant, Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd, Unit-12)