Hands,Feet,Neck,nail cleansing care needs

Cleansing and care needs for hands,feet,neck,nail

1. Cleansing and care needs for hands, feet, nail, neck Subject: Cosmetics and Cosmaceuticals Presented by, Princy Stalin 2 nd semester M.Pharm Pharmaceutics Faculty incharge Smt. Deepa Cherian Assistant Professor Pharmaceutics 1

2. Contents Cleansing and care needs for Hands Feet Nails Neck Previous year questions References 2

3. Hands 3

4. Hands are life savior, it can come in contact with many bacterias and viruses. So, cleansing and care of hands is a very important task of day-to-day life. Hand hygiene is one of the measures for reducing transmission of infections. 4

5. Care for Hands Wash with a moisturizing hand soap. Clean under your nails with a nail brush. Keep your nails trim and well shaped. Exfoliate your hands weekly. Treat your hands with a mask weekly. Wear gloves when doing chores. Apply a retinol treatment to dark spots. 5

6. Hand cream Properties They should be easy to apply. They helps in softening or imparting emollient effects to hands. They should not leave behind sticky film after application. They should not interfere with perspiration of skin. Perfume and color should be added to cream preparations for pleasant smell and appearance. 6

7. Formulation Ingredients Quantity Polar Ingredients Water 25mL Triethanolamine 1mL Propylene glycol 0.5mL Non polar ingredients Stearic acid 5g Methyl stearate 0.5g Lanolin 4g 7

8. In a clean dry 50mL beaker, place 5g stearic acid, 0.5g methyl stearate and 4g lanolin. In a 100mL beaker, place 25mL deionized water, 1mL triethanolamine and 0.5mL of propylene glycol. Melt the non polar ingredients. Heat the polar ingredients in a hot water bath for 5 minutes. Slowly pour the melted non-polar ingredients into polar ingredients with constant stirring. Keep stirring the mixture for 5 minutes until it is smooth and uniform. 8

9. Hand lotion Hand lotions are similar to hand creams, differing substantially in the proportion of total solids. The major difference between formulating hand lotions and creams is that, in lotions the important considerations centers around maintaining the emulsion in a stable, fluid state. 9

10. Formulation Ingredients Quantity% Part A Cetyl alcohol 0.50% Lanolin 1.00% Stearic acid 3.00% Part B Glycerol 2.00% Methyl paraben 0.10% Triethanolamine 0.75% Water 92.65% Part C Colour qs . Perfume qs . 10

11. Preparation Heat Part A to 70℃, heat Part B to 70℃ . Add A to B at 70℃ , with constant stirring. Stirr down to 45℃ Add perfume and colour solution. Stirr down to 30℃ and package. 11

12. Hand Sanitizer A hand sanitizer or hand antiseptic is a hand hygiene agent. Most are based on isopropyl alcohol or ethanol formulated together with a carbomer into a gel, or a humectant such as glycerin into a liquid, or foam for ease of use and to decrease the drying effect of the alcohol. Hand sanitizers containing a minimum of 60-95% alcohol are efficient germ killers. 12

13. Alcohol based hand sanitizers are almost ineffective against norovirus or Norwalk type viruses, the most common cause of contagious gastroenteritis. ABHS is effective against bacteria and viruses including E.coli, Enterococus faecalis , Candida albicans , Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, SARS- CoV , Ebola virus etc. 13

14. WHO recommended formulations for local production of ABHS. Ingredients Formulation 1 Formulation 2 Ethanol 96% 833.3 mL - Isopropyl alcohol 99.8% - 751.5mL Hydrogen peroxide 41.7mL 41.7mL Glycerol 98% 14.5mL 14.5mL Sterile distilled water Upto 1000mL Upto 1000mL 14

15. Hand Moisturizer Moisturizing hands is especially important in winter time when harsh weather can leave skin dry and even cracked. Moisturizers keep the skin hydrated and healthy. They are used for protecting, moisturizing and lubricating the skin. Moisturizer increases water content in stratum corneum by directly providing water to the skin from their water phase and reduces transdermal water loss. It also covers small fissures, providing film and protect skin from friction. 15

16. Formulation Ingredients % Oil phase Stearic acid 4.0 Liquid paraffin 8.0 Lanolin 1.0 Glyceryl monostearate 3.0 B. Water phase Glycerin 4.0 Propylene glycol 4.0 Isopropyl myristate 2.0 Triethanolamine 0.2 Methyl paraben 0.03 Propyl paraben 0.07 Perfume qs . Water To make upto 100.0 16

17. Preparation Emulsifier and oil soluble components are combined in a beaker and melted at 75℃ in a water bath. Water soluble materials and preservatives are melted at 75℃ in another beaker. The oil phase is placed in a motor and pestle after heating, water phase is gradually added and triturated until a clicking sound is heard. Finally perfuming agents and preservatives are added as the temperature cools down. 17

18. Hand washes Hand washing is the first and easiest step to stop the spread of germs and potentially harmful viruses. However, performing it often can strip the hands of their natural moisture. Hand washes are soap preparations which are better than soaps. Easy to carry. Do not spreads germs while using. 18

19. Evaluation of hand care cosmetics Spreadability test Determination of viscosity pH measurement Homogeneity Irritancy test 19

20. Feet 20

21. Human feet have to maintain the weight of the body but they are often neglected. The skin on the foot is dry compared to skin on the rest of the body. It has no oil glands and it relies on hundreds and thousands of sweat glands to keep the foot moisturized. Therefore, the feet need special care for protection, beautification and comfort. 21

22. Some foot related conditions which are related to hygiene: Athlete’s foot or tinea pedis - infection of feet that can be caused by a variety of fungi that thrive in warm, dark and moist environments. Diabetes can damage the nerves and affect blood flow in feet and legs. Poor foot hygiene causes increased risk for infection. Fungal nail infections- common infections of the finger nails or toenails that can cause the nail to become discolored, thick and more likely to crack and break. 22

23. Foot cream Properties Massage with foot cream should allow relaxation of the feet and hence ready to absorb moisture from the cream. It should soften the cells of the foot. It should stimulate the natural healing process of the skin by hydrating it and regulating the pH balance. It should stimulate blood circulation. Provides emolliency and skin softening properties. It should detoxify skin cells. 23

24. Formulation Ingredients Quantity(%) Stearic acid 10 Cetyl alcohol 1 Beeswax 2 Isopropyl myristate 2 Mineral oil 3 Propyl paraben 0.2 Triethanolamine 0.7 PEG-200 5 Glycerin 5 Methyl paraben 0.2 Distilled water 70.9 24

25. Preparation of oil phase- The oil phase ingredients were weighed and heated at a temperature 80℃ to form uniform liquid. Preparation of aqueous phase- The water phase ingredients were weighed and heated with continuous stirring at a temperature of 80 ℃ to form uniform liquid. The contents of oil phase were mixed in the water phase. The formulations were allowed to equilibrate for 24 hours, at room temperature and the prepared creams were filled and stored in an air tight container. 25

26. Foot washes Foot washes are products which removes the dirt from the foot and makes the skin smoother by giving soothing effect. These are usually used by diabetic patients. They can also be used in conditions such as Athletes foot, Candida infections, Foot itching, foot odour and toenail issues. 26

27. Evaluation of foot care cosmetics Physical parameters Colour - by visual inspection Odour - checked by smelling it. Consistency- checked by applying it on skin. Greasiness- Assessed by application on the skin. Spreadability test Homogenety - Checked by visual inspection. pH determination Water washability - Formulation was applied on skin, the ease and extend of washing with water were checked manually. 27

28. Care needs for foot Keep your feet clean and dry. Rest and relax your feet every day. Exercise your feet to maintain blood circulation. Check your feet regularly for cuts, sores, swelling, dryness etc. Clip your toenails straight across. If you notice problems with your feet, get it treated right away so it does not get worse. Wear socks. Wear comfortable shoes. 28

29. Pedicure The pedicure is a cosmetic treatment of the feet and toenails. It is suitable for both men and women. Pedicure includes care not only for the toenails, dead skin cells are rubbed off the bottom of the feet using a rough stone. Skincare is often provided up to the knee, including granular exfoliation, moisturizing and massage. It involves cutting, trimming and shaping of toenails, tending to the cuticles, exfoliating, hydrating and massaging the feet and if desired, painting the toenails. 29

30. Steps Remove all nail polish, if you have any one from a previous application. Trim the toenails to the desired length and shape. Prepare the foot bath and massage the feet with cuticle softeners. Remove the foot from the footbath and towel dry. Use a foot grater to scrub under the foot bottom, targeting the heels and the football, located under the big toe. Use a pumice stone to also scrub the bottom of the foot. Use a foot file to scrub the bottom of the foot. 30

31. 8. Use a cuticle cleaner and pusher to clean the nails and push back cuticle. 9. Massage the feet with foot scrub. 10. Wash of the foot to remove the scrub. 11. Use a pedicure brush for deeper clean. 12. Apply a foot lotion or pedicure lotion for the finishing touch. 13. Apply nail painting. 31

32. Fish pedicure Fish pedicure is also known as fish spa treatment. During a fish pedicure, customers place their feet in a tub of water filled with small fish called Garra rufa . This fish is sometimes referred to as “doctor fish” because they eat away dead skin found on people’s feet, leaving newer skin exposed. Some states have banned the use of fish pedicures due to some reasons. 32

33. Nails 33

34. Nails are transparent protective coverings on finger tips and toes of feet. Human nails are prone to infections unless we take good care of them. Cosmetic preparations for nails are very essential for the proper maintenance of the nails. It is vital to maintain well hydrated and moisturized nails which is done by manicures. Nails even serve as defense to the fingers and toes from any mechanical injuries hence nail care is utmost important. 34

35. Parts of human nail Nail matrix It is a tissue which the nail protects. It is the part of the nail bed that beneath the nail and contains nerves, lymphs and blood vessels. They are responsible for producing cells that become the nail plate. Lunula (small moon) Visible part of the matrix. The whitish crescent shaped base of the visible nail. Nail plate Hardest part of nail made of translucent keratin protein. 35

36. Nail bed The skin beneath the nail plate. It is made of translucent keratin protein. In common usage, the word nail often refers to this part only. 36

37. Care needs for nails Trim the nails straight across. Avoid harsh nail polishes. Use gentle nail polish remover, a base coat and a top coat. Moisturize the nails with oil to keep them flexible and strong. Add protein and omega-3-fatty acids to the diet. Avoid keeping the nails in wet or dirty environments. Do not bite the nails. Consult a doctor if your nails regularly cause you pain. 37

38. Nail lacquer Nail lacquer or nail enamel is one of the most important group of nail cosmetics. Viscous preparations intended to decorate nails. Properties It should be harmless to the skin and nails. It should be convenient and easy to apply. It should be stable on storage It should form a satisfactory film on nails. 38

39. To achieve a satisfactory film, it should have the following characteristics: It should have proper viscosity and good wetting and flow properties so that the film formed is even. It should have uniform colour . It should have good gloss. It should have good adhesive properties. It should have sufficient flexibility so that it does not crack or become brittle. It should have reasonable drying time. 39

40. Those characteristics must be achieved by careful selection of essential ingredients of nail enamels. They are: Film formers Resins Plasticizers Solvents Pigments 40

41. Film formers These include cellulose acetate, cellulose acetate butylate , ethyl cellulose, vinyl polymers and various polymers of methacrylate. Nitrocellulose is the most commonly used because they are available as solution in different viscosity. Special grades of nitrocellulose are available for nail lacquers. Films produced by nitrocellulose are hard and water proof and these also resist abrasion. 41

42. Resins Resins impart adhesion and improve gloss. Helps in dispersing insoluble pigments and lakes. Natural resins: Shellac, benzoin, ester gums etc. Synthetic resins: Sulphonamide -formaldehyde resins 42

43. Plasticizers Nitrocellulose alone gives brittle film and therefore, other substances are added to the formulation of nail enamels. Plasticizers are one of them. Plasticizers impart flexibility and adhesive properties to the film. There are two types of plasticizers- solvent plasticizers and non-solvent plasticizers. The amount of plasticizer which can be used in nail lacquers may vary from about 25-50% of dry nitrocellulose. The amount depends on flexibility of the film required. 43

44. Plasticizers for nail lacquers Tricresyl phosphate Benzyl benzoate Tributyl phosphate Dibutyl phthalate Camphor Castor oil Butyl glycollate Glycollate plasticizers give better hardness to film, better feel and good adhesion on the nail. 44

45. Solvents Evaporation characteristics of solvents are of prime importance in nail lacquers. But too rapid of evaporation causes a poor flow of enamel resulting in uneven and streaky application. Very quickly evaporating solvents may cause intense cooling. This may cause precipitation of moisture from surrounding atmosphere and making the film dull with unattractive finish. This is called ‘blushing’ of the lacquer. 45

46. On the other hand , if solvents evaporates too slow, it will result in poor pick-up of nail enamel on the brush, thin application and extension of time of setting and hardening of the enamel. Solvents are generally classified according to their boiling points. 46

47. Solvents for nail lacquers Solvents Boiling range℃ Low boiling point solvents Ethyl ether 34-35 Petroleum ether 40-60 Methyl acetate 56-59 Acetone 55-56 Cyclohexane 81 Ethyl acetate 74-79 Carbon tetrachloride 77 Ethyl alcohol 78 Isopropyl alcohol 80 47

48. Continues. Solvent Boiling range℃ Medium boiling point solvents N-Butyl acetate 124-128 Amyl acetate 137-142 Xylol 138 N-Butyl alcohol 115-118 High boiling point solvents Ethyl lactate 150-160 Cellosolve acetate 145-165 Butyl cellosolve 166-173 Carbitol 185-205 48

49. Pigments Pigments used in nail enamels should have properties such as: They should be non-toxic and non-irritating. They should be non-staining. They should be substantially insoluble in lacquers. They should not exhibit bleeding tendancy . They should be moderately stable when exposed to light. Earlier soluble dyes like erythrosine, carmosine and rhodamines were used but were found to stain surrounding skin. As such, the use of these dyes was abandoned. 49

50. The main inorganic pigments which can be used in nail enamels are: Titanium dioxide Yellow iron oxide Red iron oxide Iron blue Iron black Ultramarine blue Chrome oxide greens In addition, iridescent materials like ‘pearl essence’ can be incorporated into nail enamels. Pearl essence is a suspension of crystalline guanine in nitro-cellulose and solvents. 50

51. Suspending agents Insoluble pigments and iridescent materials have tendancy to settle. This is not considered good by the consumers. Therefore, suspending agents are used. Eg . Benzyl dimethyl hygrogenated tallow, ammonium morillonite ( Bentone 27), dimethyl dioctyl ammonium bentonite ( Bentone 34) These clays increases the viscosity to a great extent and heavy oxides remain suspended. The concentration of bentone ranges from 0.5-2.0%. 51

52. Formulation Preparation of Nitrocellulose About 5gms of cellulose base (cotton) is added to 50mL concentrated sulfuric acid and 25 mL 70% nitric acid mixture and cooled to 5-10℃ to give cellulose nitrate. Then cotton was removed and washed in cold water and with NaHCO3 solution to remove all acid residues. It was then slowly dried at room temperature. 52

53. Formulation Ingredients % Nitrocellulose 15.00 Sulfonamide resin( Santolite ) 7.50 Dibutyl pthalate 3.75 Butyl acetate 29.35 Ethyl alcohol(from nitrocellulose) 6.40 Butyl alcohol 1.10 Toluene 36.90 53

54. The manufacture of nail lacquers should consist of two distinct operations. First, the manufacture and compounding of the base lacquers. Second, coloring of such lacquers to give cosmetically acceptable shades. In manufacturing the clear lacquer bases, 75% of the solvent and diluent portions of the formula is first charged into the mixing tank. With the agitator running, add nitrocellulose, then thoroughly mixed until completely in solution. 54

55. The resin, plasticizer along with the balance of the solvents are then added. Agitation continued for an hour, or until solution of all ingredients become complete. Pigmented or colour lacquers are made by adding requisite amount of color concentrate or specialty fillers such as pearl essence to the clear lacquer to give the desired effect. 55

56. Enamel remover Nail enamel removers or nail cleansers are defined as the mixture of solvents containing small amount of fat to remove the nail enamel. Ideal characteristics It should not be too volatile to evaporate during application. It should not be too irritating to surrounding skin. It should not leave the nails fatty or sticky. It should not have unpleasant and obstructive odour . 56

57. Type 1 Type 1 contains solvent blends and a small percentage of oily materials. Type 2(Non-smearing enamel) Contains water and water miscible solvents Ingredients % Castor oil 2.5 Diethylene glycol mono ethyl ether 14.5 Acetone 83.0 Ingredients % Water 10.0 Ethyl acetate 90.0 57

58. Type 3 (cream type) Contains solvent, waxes and soaps. Melt all ingredients except triethanolamine , add triethanolamine to the mixture with stirring and allow to cool. Ingredients % Beeswax 3.0 Micro-crystalline wax 1.0 Acetylated monoglycerides 10.0 Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether 52.0 Ethyl acetate 15.0 Stearic acid 15.0 Triethanolamine 4.0 58

59. Fingernail elongators It is a synthetic material moulded on the natural nail, where it remains firm and tight and grows with the wearer’s nail. It have a life that is claimed to be atleast 4 weeks. The elongators are used to repair injured nails and to strengthen soft nails. They are a boon to habitual nail biters, since the polymethacrylate plastic films is so hard that the teeth slip off the nail, rather than bite onto it 59

60. Formulation Mix 2 parts of the powder with 1 part of the liquid to form a dough. Polymerization to a hard solid taking place in 6 minutes. 60 Ingredients % Solid components Methyl methacrylate polymer 75 Aluminium silicate 23 Benzoyl peroxide 2 Liquid components Methyl methacrylate monomer, with hydroquinone 99 Phenyl diethanolamine 1

61. Cuticle remover Partially covering the lunula of the nail is a special membrane called the cuticle. In the case of the nail, this keratinized skin collects around the nail grooves and together with the natural fatty secretions, forms an irregular appendage which mars the beauty of an otherwise well kept nails. In order to form a neat appearing nail, the cuticle is either pushed back off the nail or is completely removed from the skin, depending on the amount of cuticle, its toughness and degree of removal sought. Cuticle remover is a liquid or cream used to remove excess tissue around the nails 61

62. Formulation Ingredients % Part A Cholesterin absorption base 20.0 Petrolatum, short fibre 24.0 Cetyl alcohol 5.0 Cocoa butter 5.0 Beeswax,white 12.0 Part B Water 23.0 Borax 0.5 Perfume 0.4 Preservative 0.1 62

63. Preparation Melt part A to about 80℃. Heat part B to about the same temperature Slowly add B to A, while stirring. Allow to cool to 65℃. Then, add perfume and preservatives 63

64. Evaluation of nail care cosmetics Nail Lacquers Non volatile content 10 mL of sample was taken in a petridish and initial weights were recorded. The dish was placed in the oven at 105℃ for 1 hr , the petridish was removed, cooled and weighed. The difference in weights was recorded. Drying time A film of sample was applied on a petridish with the help of a brush. The time to form a dry-to-touch film was noted with the help of stop watch. 64

65. Smoothness to flow The sample was poured from a height of 1.5 inches into a glass plate and spread on a glass plate and made to rise vertically and visually observed for smoothness of film. Gloss Sample of nail lacquer was applied over the nail and gloss was visually seen, compared with marketed cosmetic nail lacquer. Viscosity Determined using Brookfield Viscometer. 65

66. Drug content estimation Nail lacquer equivalent to 200 mg was dissolved in 50 mL phosphate buffer solution of pH 7.4. Then the solution was ultrasonicated for 15 minutes. The resulting solution was filtered, made upto 100mL with buffer solution. From the above solution, take 10mL and made upto 100mL with PBS. Then the diluted solution was estimated spectrophotometrically and determine the drug content. 66

67. Manicure A manicure is a mostly cosmetic beauty treatment for the fingernails and hands performed at home or in a nail salon. It usually consist of shaping the free edge of the nails, pushing and clipping any non-living tissue, treatments with various liquids, massage of the hands and application of fingernail polish. 67

68. Steps Remove polish from both hands. Cut the nails into shape if desired. Shape the nails. Seal the free edges/layers to prevent water loss and damage. Apply cuticle cream around the cuticles. Gently massage the cream into the cuticles. Soak the hands in warm water to absorb the cuticle cream and to soften them. 68

69. Remove one hand at a time and dry the hands thoroughly. Apply cuticle remover with cotton wool bud. Trim off the excess cuticle. Seal again to give a smooth finish to the free edge. Using suitable cream/lotion massage the hands. Clean the nails with enamel remover again. Now, apply the base coat and then enamel and finally the top coat. Remove all the traces of enamel left on the skin. 69

70. Neck 70

71. Neck is a most active and mobile area of the spine. It is an important area from a cosmetic standpoint, since it is an area affected by shaving in males and fragrance application in females. The neck is exposed to dust and sun as much as the face and even more. 71

72. Common dermatologic problems of the neck Psoriasis Eczema Folliculitis Razor burn Photodamage Fragrance allergy 72

73. Care needs for neck Cleanse your neck. If not, it results in dark neck. Exfoliate your neck once a week to remove old skin, dead skin from the neck surface. Apply face wash on the neck too. Use a moisturizer with SPF on your neck. Apply sunscreen on the neck too. Limit your screen time which is a biggest cause for ‘tech neck.’ Do not over massage the neck. Remove make up from the neck while removing face makeup. 73

74. Face wash It is a facial care cosmetic also applied to neck to cleanse the skin. It helps to improve skin complexion. Helps to rejuvenates the skin. Helps to control excessive oil. Helps to nourish the skin and make it bright and radiant. 74

75. Cleansing cream They are used for the purpose of removing makeup, remove the dirt on the skin and clean the secretions of skin from neck and face. Properties It should be easy to apply. It should spread easily on the skin It should not cause irritation to the skin. It should not melt or liquefy when applied onto the skin. 75

76. Massage cream These are preparations which are gently applied and rubbed on the skin through massage. These creams exhibit moisturizing and emollient action and thus prevents dryness of the skin. 76

77. All purpose cream It is used as moisturizer or a cleansing cream on the face, neck, body or hands. Properties They are oily in nature, but non greasy. They provide protective film to the skin. They make the rough surface of the skin smooth. 77

78. Fairness cream Also known as whiteners, skin brighteners or skin lighteners cream. They work by reducing the pigment called melanin. Helps visibly lighten the hyperpigmentation in the skin and nourishes the skin. 78

79. Previous year questions Nail care cosmetics (5 marks) Cleansing and care needs for hands (5 marks) Care needs for feet (5 marks) 79

80. References P.P.Sharma , Cosmetics-formulation, manufacturing and quality control, 5 th editionpage no. 149-216, 327-348, 497-521, 459-481. Marvin. S. Balsam & Edward Sagarin , Cosmetics- Science and Technology, 2 nd edition , Volume 1, page no.211-218, 521-575. 80