herbal cosmetics.pptx

cosmos guideline

1. HERBAL COSMETICS Referred as Products, are formulated, using various permissible cosmetic ingredients to form the base in which one or more herbal ingredients are used to provide defined cosmetic benefits only, shall be called as “Herbal Cosmetics Laxmidhar sahoo Assistant professor RIPS,Berhampur

2. Nowadays, Herbal cosmetic is growing rapidly as most women prefer natural products rather than chemicals products for their personal care.  Herbal cosmetic contains natural nutrients to improve and provide consumers satisfaction due to relatively fewer side effects compared to synthetic cosmetics

3. SPECIAL SKIN PROBLEM & HERBAL REMEDIES SKIN PROBLEM FEATURES REMEDIES Chapped Skin Rough texture which sometimes causes the skin to crack Application of oils of St.John Wort, Olive Oil or Mashed Avocado after bathing or massaging with warm Olive Oil, Mustard or Coconut Oil half an hour before bathing Withered Skin Very tough texture, full of wrinkles Carrot Juice along with honey Sallow Skin No color look, skin becomes lusterless and shows lack of vitality React quickly to both heat and cold. Inclusion of Vitamin B in diet. Sensitive Skin Sunburns and wind burns occur easily. Skins become dry delicate and prone to allergic reactions Use of essential oil of Chamomile, Lavender Neroli, Rose and Sandal Wood Oil. Acne Pockets of infection that manifest as red sores, boils and pimples. Usage of Red Sandal Wood Oil.

4. List of Plants with Cosmetic Application for Skin Care Scientific Name Common Name Part Uses Uses Calendula ofjicinalis (Compositae) Marigold Flower Skin care, Anti-inflammatory, Antiseptic Creams Azadiracta indica (Meliaceae) Neem Leaf Antiseptic, reduce dark spots, Antibacterial Aloe vera (Liliaceae) Aloe vera Leaf Moisturizer, Sun screen, Emollient Centella asiatica Brahmi Plant Wound healing, Reduce Stretch marks Panax ginseng ( Araliaceae ) Ginseng Root Stimulate blood flow to skin

5. Dry skin treatment: 1. Coconut oil: Cocos nucifera( Arecaceaeis) excellent as a skin moisturizer and softener 2. Sunflower Oil: Helianthus annuus (Asteraceae) Sunflower oil contains lecithin, tocopherols, carotenoids and waxes. In cosmetics, it has smoothing properties and is considered noncomedogenic 3. Aloe: A native of southern Africa, the aloe vera plant has fleshy spiny-toothed leaves and red or yellow flowers 60. It is an ingredient in many cosmetics because it heals moisturizes, and softens skin

6. Anti-Aging Treatment 1. Golden Root Rhodiola rosea ( Crassulaceae ) grows in cold regions of the world. The Rhodiola root has long been used in the traditional medical systems in Europe and Asia and thought to have anti oxidative properties 2. Carrot ( Daucus carota ): Carrot seed oil is indicated for anti-aging, revitalizing and rejuvenating . As it promotes the formation of new cells and helps in reducing wrinkles. It acts as Natural toner and rejuvenator for the skin. 3. Ginkgo: Ginkgo biloba ( Ginkgoaceae ):increase skin moisture-retention and smoothness

7. Skin Protection Green Tea:( Camellia Sinensis) catechins in green tea are some 20 times stronger in their antioxidant powers than even vitamin E. against the revaging effects of the sun Turmeric: ( Curcuma longa)Traditionally women rub turmeric on their cheeks to produce a natural golden glow

8. Hair cosmetics 1. Amla: Emblica Officinalis,( Euphorbiaceae ). Amla is rich in vitamin C, tannins and minerals such as phosphorus, iron and calcium which provides nutrition to hair and also causes darkening of hair. 2. Hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa): consists of calcium, phosphorus, iron,vitamin B1, riboflavin, niacin and vitamin C, used to stimulate thicker hair growth and prevents premature graying of hair. 3. Almond Oil ( Prunus dulcis): The almond oil basically contains about 78% of this fat. This oil contains very small amounts of super-unsaturated Omega-3 essential fatty acids . It proves to be very nourishing, and softens and strengthens the hair.

9. 4. Shikakai : (Acacia concinna ) is a medicinal plant that grows in tropical rainforests of southern Asia. The fruits of this plant are used for washing hair, for improving hair growth.

10. Plants Traditionally Used in Oral Hygiene A well-known example, Salvadora persica L. (miswak or siwak), is the most common traditional source of the material for oral hygiene. The antibacterial effect of Salvadora persica extracts against bacteria in dental plaque is well documented throughout the world Benzyl isothiocyanate and its derivatives were identified as the major antibacterial component, and their amount reflects the efficacy of the miswak

11. Green tea, the leaves of Camellia sinensis is a popular drink that has a beneficial physiological effect. It is widely consumed all over the world and proven to have antioxidant and antibacterial effects against bacterial colony of dental plaque. It has been found that green tea polyphenols can eliminate halitosis by modifying the odorant sulfur components. Oxidative stress and inflammation in the oral cavity, due to heavy cigarette smoking and alcohol consumption, also decreased in the presence of green tea polyphenols

12. 1. Neem (Azadirachta indica), which is widely used as chewing stick throughout the world. The stems of Azadirachta indica have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities due to the presence of substances such as nimbin and nimbidine as photochemical. 2. In case of mango twigs (Mangifera indica), mangiferin , which is the natural C- glucoside xanthone, has been reported in various parts of the plant such as leaves, fruits, stem, bark, and roots. Antioxidant, radioprotective, immunomodulatory, antitumor, antiallergic, anti-inflammatory, antidiabetic, and antimicrobial properties of mangiferin are reported in many studies. It has also therapeutic potential in both the prevention and treatment of periodontitis

13. 3.Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) containing dental gel found to be more effective in decreasing the dental biofilm and the number of bacterial colonies. 4. Recent researches suggest that licorice extracts and its phytochemicals have beneficial effects in oral hygiene and oral diseases. These effects have been attributed to the antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties of its constituents

14. Challenges in herbal formulation Ethnic Factors It includes the factors that affect the nature of the drug at the time of cultivation of herbs. • Light • Temperature • Atmospheric humidity • Altitude • Rainfall • Soil Any variations in the above factors affect the nature of the drug resulting in the alteration of the number of active constituents present in the herbs which becomes challenging while formulating herbal cosmetics.

15. Regulatory status of herbal drugs WHO guidelines state that both manufacturers and regulatory bodies should share equal responsibility to assure the quality of herbal products . It is the duty of regulatory authorities to establish some ground guidelines on various aspects of quality assurance, data evaluation, dossiers and evaluation of post-marketing compliance of products with the specifications set out by the manufacturers as well to comply with GMP guidelines

16. It is of chief importance that the manufacturers firmly stick to good agricultural and further good collection practices (GACP), GMP and good laboratory practice (GLP) standards, to establish proper specifications for their finished products, raw materials, and intermediates and to gather whole documentation on the herbal development and testing

17. Product certification The main objective of the certification of a product is to check the ingredients including raw materials, processes, production and manufacturing, raw materials storage, packaging and labeling, energy resources usage and waste disposal management, also the certification of manufacturers to certify the quality of the end product. The certification agencies execute standards that should be satisfied by the manufacturer, to be able to ensure the quality of the final product

18. The major certification agencies for natural and organic products are : 1. Bundesverb and Deutscher Industrie und Handel sunternehmen(BDIHS) 2. Cosmetics organic standard (Cosmos) in European Union (EU ) 3. ECOCERT in france : 4.National association for sustainable agriculture, australia (NASAA) in australia 5. Instituto Biodinâmico de Certificações (IBD) in Brazil 6. Quality assurance international (QAI) in the united states of America:

19. Quality control of herbal drugs and cosmetics Several factors influence the quality of herbal product. They are; 1. Herbal drugs are a combination of several constituents. 2. In most cases, the active principle(s) is/are, unidentified. 3. Analytical methods that are suitable or standard references may not be available commercially . 4. Plant actives are chemically and naturally inconstant. 5. The raw material source and quality are unstable . 6. The methods of collecting, drying, storage, transportation, and processing have a variable effect on the final product. 7. Firm guidelines have to be followed for the production of a herbal product with superior quality. Proper plant identification, phytochemical screening, and standardization can be the criteria to look for .

20. Processing and GMP Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) is a code of training utilized by the medical and health-related industries incorporating the pharmaceutical business with an end goal to keep up the most elevated standards of value in the improvement, manufacture, and control of therapeutic products Toxicity of traditional herbal drugs : another challenge as many herbs shows toxic effect

21. Guidelines by COSMOS (Cosmetics Organic and Natural Standard) This Standard has been developed at the European and international level by BDIH (Germany), COSMEBIO & ECOCERT (France), ICEA (Italy) and SOIL ASSOCIATION (UK) who are the founders of the COSMOS-standard AISBL (an international non-profit association registered in Belgium) in order to define common requirements and definitions for organic and/or natural cosmetics.

22. OBJECTIVES The COSMOS-standard's ultimate objective is to address the major issues essential to the environment and welfare of man on the planet. For practical purposes, it aims to ensure the transition between today’s and tomorrow’s possibilities of technological advances to promote the development of cosmetics ever more natural and organic. This is necessary for the respect of consumers who must be informed clearly and transparently so that they can themselves be actors for sustainable development

23. The COSMOS-standard  covers in detail all aspects of the sourcing, manufacture, marketing and control of cosmetic products. The key sections of  the COSMOS-standard  are chapters 6 – 11. 6. ORIGIN AND PROCESSING OF INGREDIENTS Standards for water, minerals and ingredients of mineral origin, physically processed agro-ingredients,​ chemically processed agro-ingredients and other ingredients. 7. COMPOSITION OF TOTAL PRODUCT  How to calculate the organic content of complex ingredients and how much organic content is required in products under organic certification

24. 8. STORAGE, MANUFACTURING AND PACKAGING To ensure adequate cleanliness, hygiene and traceability throughout all processes, and to ensure that packaging respects the environment. 9. ENVIRONMENTAL MANAGEMENT Details the requirements for care of the environment throughout the manufacturing process, and managing, minimizing and recycling waste. ​

25. 10. LABELLING AND COMMUNICATION Defines comprehensive requirements for clear product labelling and company advertising, to ensure all necessary information for consumers and no misleading claims. ​ 11. INSPECTION, CERTIFICATION AND CONTROL The requirements for all products, their ingredients and their manufacturing to be certified by a competent body, authorized by independent accreditation. 

26. Preservatives (as per COSMOS standard) This following ingredients that are temporarily allowed and will be reviewed on a regular basis with the aim of removing those where compliant alternatives exist. These ingredients cannot be certified as organic. Preservatives and denaturing agents from petrochemical origin (non natural ingredients – NNI) Ingredient Restrictions Benzoic Acid and its salts - Benzyl Alcohol - Salicylic Acid and its salts - Sorbic Acid and its salts - Dehydroacetic Acid and its salts - Denatonium Benzoate and Tertiary Butyl Alcohol and other denaturing agents for alcohol (excluding phthalates) Only as denaturing agent for ethanol – where required by law

27. INCI name Product type/Limit for the use Maximum concentration Restriction Benzethonium chloride (a)Rinse-off products(b)Leave-on products other than oral products 0.1% - Benzoic acid and its sodium salt (a)Leave-on products other than oral products (b)Oral products (a)2.5% (as acid) b) (c)1.7%(as acid) - Chlorobutanol - 0.5% Not to be used in aerosol products Dimethyl oxazolidine - 0.1% pH>6 Ethyl lauroyl arginate HCl (a)Mouthwashes (b)Other products (a)0.15% (b)0.4% (a)Not to be used in prep- arations for children under 10 years of age (b)Not to be used in lip, oral products(other than mouthwashes), and spray products. Phenoxy isopropanol Rinse-off products 1% -

28. Why is preservation important? Most cosmetic care products must be protected against microbial growth  – for both consumer protection and formulation stability reasons. Growth of microorganisms might result in degradation of ingredients and consequently in deterioration of physical and chemical stability. Objective to use preservatives in cosmetics: Kill or inhibit the growth of micro-organisms, and Protect a formula from microbial contamination Their main function is to protect and maintain the integrity of product - efficacy, fragrance, appearance, and stability - during its life by providing a preservative efficacy against microbial contamination.

29. Preservative Type Features Examples Organic acids Effective with fungi but offer least protection against bacteria Effective only in acidic conditions (pH 5.0) Need an aqueous base, in order to be used Considered natural alternatives while developed synthetically Benzoic acids and salts Sorbic acid and derivatives Salicylic Acid and derivatives Formic acid and derivatives Alcohols and Phenols Effective against a wide range of microbes Combination of phenethyl alcohol with caprylyl glycol shows a synergistic antimicrobial effect Phenoxyethanol Benzyl alcohol Dichlorobenzyl alcohol Phenethyl alcohol Parabens Mostly used preservatives with cosmetics (both rinse-off and leave-on) Cost-effective Rendered inactive in combination with polysorbate emulsifiers Good protection against fungal growth and gram-positive bacteria Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben Butylparaben Urea Compounds  / Formaldehyde releasing preservatives Effective in fighting bacteria but weak fungal efficacy Low levels required for use as these release formaldehyde needed for preservation Can cause skin irritation / allergic reactions Imidazolidinyl Urea Diazolidinyl Urea Bronopol Quaternary Ammonium Compounds (QAC) Antimicrobial activity of the QACs is a function of the length of the N-alkyl chain Optimum activity against Gram-positive bacteria and yeast is obtained with chain lengths of 12 to 14 alkyls Behentrimonium Chloride Cetrimonium Bromide & Cetrimonium Chloride Laurtrimonium Bromide & Laurtrimonium Chloride Benzalkonium Chloride