Herbal cosmetics sujitha

HERBAL COSMETICS ;HERBAL INGREDIENTS IN HAIR CARE,SKIN CARE AND ORAL CARE. REVIEW ON THE GUIDELINE FOR HERBAL COSMETICS BY PRIVATE BODIES LIKE COSMOS WITH RESPECT TO PRESERVATIVES EMOLLIENTS FOAMING AGENTS.CHALLENGES IN FORMULATION OF HERBAL COSMETICS

1. 1 HERBAL COSMETICS Presented by Sujitha mary M pharm St Joseph college of pharmacy

2. CONTENTS 2 Herbal ingredients used in hair care Herbal ingredients used in oral care Herbal ingredients used in skin care Review of guidelines for herbal cosmetics by private bodies like cosmos with respect to preservatives, emollients, foaming agents, emulsifiers and rheology modifiers. Challenges in formulating herbal cosmetics

3. HERBAL COSMETICS 3 DEFINITION: According to D & C Act 1940 Any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on or introduced to or applied to any part of human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting, attractiveness or altering the appearance and includes any article intended for use as component of cosmetics.

4. 4 Herbal Cosmetics, referred as Products, are formulated, using various permissible cosmetic ingredients to form the base in which one or more herbal ingredients are used to provide defined cosmetic benefits only, shall be called as “Herbal Cosmetics”. In cosmetics, both natural and phyto -ingredients are used. Natural products include oils, extracts, secretions etc. Phyto -ingredients include pure constituents obtained by various process.

5. 5 They do not provoke allergic reaction & do not have negative side effects. They are easily incorporated with skin and hair. Extract form of the plants decreases the bulk properties of the cosmetics and give appropriate effects. Easily available & found in large variety & quantity. ADVANTAGES OF HERBAL COSMETICS

6. HERBAL INGREDIENT USED IN HAIR CARE 6 Hair care product is to make the hair look manageable and promote healthy growth. Hair care products are : Hair oil Hair tonics Hair cream Shampoos Hair conditioner Hair lotions Hair dyes

7. SOME COMMONLY USED HERBALS FOR HAIR CARE 7 S.NO BOTANICAL NAME/COMMEN NAME USES 1 Acacia concinna ( Shikakai ) Pods extract is used as hair cleanser & control of dandruff 2 Arnica montana (arnica) Flowers extract is used in hair oil as a tonic material & stimulate the hair follicles 3 Betula pendula (Birch) Extract of leaves is used as anti - dandruff 4 Brassica (Mustard) Seed oil is used as hair oil for hair nourishment 5 Calendula officinalis (Marigold) Flower extract is used in hair creams for smoothening effect.

8. 8 S.NO BOTANICAL NAME/COMMEN NAME USES 6 Carthamus tinctorius (Safflower) Alcoholic extract used in hair tonics 7 Centella aciatica ( Brahmi ) Whole plant extract is used for growth and maintenance of hair. 8 Cocos nucifera (Coconut) Used as a basic raw material for preparing hair oil and tonic 11 Eclipta alba ( Bhringaraj ) Whole plant extract is used for hair nourishment and dyeing. 12 Ginkgo Biloba (Ginkgo) Used for hair growth 13 Glycyrrhiza glabra ( liquorice ) Root extract used treat the hair loss

9. HAIR OIL 9 The hail oils used for dressings and nourishing the hairs and grace appearance of hairs. This preparations is generally used to increase the growth of hair and remains healthy. Hair oil should have following properties : They should give luster to the hair. Retain them soft & flowering. Invigorate their growth. Prevent premature grayness. Keep the brain cool. Should not be sticky. Should posses mild perfumes if required.

10. 10 Various hair oil used for hair nourishment: Castor oil Cocount oil Sesame oil Almond oil Formula BASE Sunflower oil Sandal wood oil Rosemary oil Chameli oil (jasmine) Henna oil HERBAL EXTRACT MIX S.NO INGREDIENTS % 1 Til oil 70 2 Alomond oil 10 3 Apricot oil 10 4 Sunflower oil 10 S.NO INGREDIENTS % 1 Centella asiatica 10 2 Emblica officinalis 10 3 Hibiscus rosa sinensis 10 4 Amarantus census 10 5 Musa acuminata -root 10

11. HAIR SETTING LOTION IN SPRAY PACKING 11 They are mainly used for keeping the position of the hair on the scalp intact. Usually polymeric substances are used. But natural herbal extracts can be used as substitutes. Formula : S.NO INGREDIENTS % 1 Herbal hair oil 54 2 Paraffin 8 3 Beeswax 3 4 Ceralan 5 5 Water 30 S.NO INGREDIENTS % 1 Musa acuminata flower 3 2 Triconella foenum graecum 2 3 Aloe barbadensis 1 4 Gum karaya 1 BASE HERBAL EXTRACT MIX

12. 12 HAIR LOTION Hair lotion has a stimulating effect upon the hair follicles. They are generally perfumed with oil of rosemary, it posses a good stimulating property. Catharanthus Lotion Formula : S.NO INGREDIENTS PARTS 1 Tincture of cantharides 1 Aqua samburi 11 3 Rosemary 5

13. 13 Shampoo is preparation of surfactant in suitable form liquid, solid or powder - which when used under the condition specified will remove surface grease, dirt, and skin debris from the hair shaft and scalp without affecting adversely the hair, scalp or health of the user. Fenugreek extract help in conditioning, thickening and foam stabilizing. Saponins -natural foaming agent. SHAMPOOS

14. 14 Surfactant : Provide detergency & foam. Eg , Anionic surfactant: Sulfonic acid salts, Alcohol sulfates, Alkylbenzene sulfonates , Phosphoric acid ester, Carboxylic acid salts. Viscosity modifiers: Electrolytes(NH 4 , NaCl ), Natural gum (Gum karaya , tragacanth , Alginates), cellulose derivative(HEC, MC), Carbopol 934, PVP, Phosphate ester. Opacifying agent: Alkanolamides of higher fatty acids, Propylene glycol, Mg,Ca & Zn salt of stearic acid, Spermaceti. INGREDIENTS USE IN SHAMPOOS

15. 15 Conditioning agent : Lanolin, Mineral oil, herbal extract, Egg derivative. Clarifying agent : Solubilizing alcohol like Ethanol, Isopropanol & Non ionic solubilizer like Polyethoxylated alcohol and esters. Sequestering agent : EDTA. Preservatives : Methyl & Propyl paraban , Formaldehyde. Foam Builders : Lauryl monoethanolamides , sarcosinates . Perfumes : Herbal, fruity fragrance.

16. 16 HERBAL SHAMPOO: S.NO Ingredients % 1 Herbal extract mix 5 2 Ammonium carbonate 1 3 Detergent-SLES 40 4 Water 20 5 Propylene glycol 30 6 Polyethylene glycol 4 7 Preservatives & Perfume QS S.NO Ingredients % 1 Musa acuminata -root 3 2 Aloe barbadensis 3 3 Emblica officinalis 2 BASE HERBAL EXTRACT MIX REGULAR SHAMPOO: Mixture of Shikakai , Reetha and Amla – hair appears better appearance then shampoo.

17. 17 HEALTH SHAMPOO : Take equal quantities power such Reetha , Shikakai , Multani mitti , Nagarmotha , Mehandi & Amla . Soak in water for overnight – make paste. HAIR FALL PREVENTIVE SHAMPOO : Paste of flower of Til (Sesame) & Gokharu in cow milk - Past - Prevent the hair loss and encourages the growth. SHIKAKAI HAIR WASH : Shikakai power, Dried amla , Dried lime peel, Green grams, Dried curry leaves, Fenugreek seeds – cleansing and hair wash.

18. 18 ANTI-DANTRUFF HAIR WASH: Shikakai , Mehandi , Reetha , Nimba tree bark ( Margosa ), Chandan . Make a power in water at night then boil this mixture till it form a paste. HAIR CONDITIONER The term hair conditioners used for attractive, healthy looking hairs. They should be capable of giving life, softness, body and silky touch, control of flyway and ease of styling to the hair.

19. 19 Jojoba conditioner formula: Rose floral water - one cub Jojoba oil - 1 tablespoon Vitamin E oil - 10 drop Aloe vera hair conditioner formula: Ingredient % Aloe vera gel 60 Lemon juice 10 Essential oil 0.5 Essential oil – lavender and rosemary are used for relaxing and mind oil for stimulating effect.

20. 20 Hair tonic which promote hair growth, arrest hair fall and Strengthen hair roots. Ingredients: Amla fruits Henna ( mehandi ) Bhringraj leaves Jasmine flower Japa flower Tulsi leaves Vasaka Spirulina Heat all ingredients with oil (coconut oil) on low flame till all herbs are burnt. Strain the oil & store in airtight container HAIR TONIC

21. 21 These are preparations which are used for the coloring of the hairs. They enhances the attractiveness of gray hair. They are applied externally on the hair with help of brush. Formula Extract of these powder give brownish black color. S.NO INGREDIENTS % 1. Lawsonia inermis power 75 2 Indigofera tinctoria 20 3 Quercus infectoria powder 5 HAIR COLORANTS

22. 22 RED HAIR COLOR ENHANCER ½ cup beet juice ½ cup carrot juice FOR GRAY HAIR ½ cup dried sage ¼ cup dried rosemary FOR BLONDE HAIR 6 chamomile tea bags ½ cup plain yogurt and oil of lavend er

23. 23 HAIR COLORANTS COLOR PLANT NAME PART USED Red/Brown Henna Walnet Catechu Leaves Leaves, nuts Heartwood Blonde/Yellow Cassia Catechu Saffron Chamomile Rhubarb Leaves Leaves Flowers Flowers Root Black Shoe flower Flowers Blue Indigo Leaves

24. 24 HAIR CREAM Herbal hair oil processed into cream are also very useful as dressing preparations in hair grooming. It serves the purpose of hair oil without its greasiness. Basically these cream are O/W type emulsion. Formula S.NO INGREDIENTS % 1 Herbal hair oil 30 2 Triethanolamine 10 3 Glycerin 10 4 water 45 5 Borax 5 6 perfume QS

25. HERBAL INGREDIENT USED IN ORAL CARE 25 Oral hygiene products are used for keeping the teeth, gums and the oral cavity clean. The health of individual is reflected through sparkling teeth, dazzling white color and tight teeth and gums. ORAL CARE AND ORAL HYGIENE PRODUCT : Tooth Powders Toothpastes

26. 26 Gargling solution Mouth wash Tartar remover Tooth powder & Pastes used for cleaning the teeth by removing the dental plaque and tartar with help of toothbrush for keeping oral cavity fresh. Mouthwashes and Gargling solution, made up of astringent, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory herbs are selected, its used for care of oral cavity. TYPICAL ORAL CARE INGREDIENTS Sweeteners : Glycerin, Glucose, Sodium cyclamate, Sorbitol , Saccharin, Stevia powder.

27. 27 Abrasives : Calcium carbonate, Calcium Diphosphate , Calcium triphosphate , Sodium floride , Sepia officinalis powder, Silica gel, Siliceous earth, Magnesium aluminum silicate, Celite , Kieselguhr , Charcoal power. Flavorings agent: Peppermint oil, Wintergreen oil, Cinnamon oil, Clove oil, Anise oil, Dill oil, Nutmeg oil, Fennel oil, Thymol , Anethol , Menthol. Binding agent : CMC, Sodium alginate, Gum karaya , Gum Acacia, Gum tragacanth , Bentonite . Preservatives : Methyl paraben and Propyl paraben .

28. 28 HERBS BOTANICAL NAME /COMMON NAME PARTS USED PROPERTY Acacia arabica ( Babool ) Stem bark Astringent Achyranthes aspera (Prickly chaff flower) Entire plant Astringent Anacyclus pyrethrum (Chamomile) Root Toothache Azadirachta indica ( Neem ) Stem berk Antibacterial Syzygium aromatum Buds Toothache Ficus benghalensis Root Gum tightening LIST OF PLANT USED IN DENTAL CARE AND ORAL HYGIENE PREPARATIONS

29. 29 HERBS BOTANICAL NAME PARTS USED PROPERTY Mentha piperita Oil Flavoring agent Psidium guajava Leaves Astringent Prunus amygdalus Root bark Tartar remover Spilanthes acmella Leaves, fruits Toothache, gum infection Spilanthes calva Flowers Flavoring agent Terminalia chebula Stem bark Astringent Mimusops elengi Fruits Toothache Pongamia glabra Bark Antiseptic

30. TOOTH POWDER 30 S. NO INGREDIENTS % 1 Calcium Carbonate 50 2 Celite 30 3 Sodium chloride 5 4 Hard soap powder 5 5 Herbal powder mix 10 6 Flavoring agent QS BASE S.NO INGREDIENTS PART 1 Mimusops elengi fruits bark 2.5 2 Azadirachta indica -bark 2.5 3 Acacia arabica -bark 2.5 4 Pongamia glabra - bark 2.5 HERBAL POWER MIX S.NO INGREDIENTS PART 1 Cinnamon oil 2 2 Clove oil 2 3 Peppermint 2 4 Neem , Karangia oils 4 FLAVOUR –ESSENTIONAL OIL MIX

31. TOOTHPASTE 31 These are pastes meant for cleaning teeth from tartar and plaque. Formula: S. NO INGREDIENTS % 1 Herbal tooth powder 70 2 Detergent 3 3 Flavouring agent 3 4 Water 20 5 Sweetener 4 6 Glycerin Q.S 7 Sodium alginate Q.S S. NO INGREDIENTS PART 1 Clove oil 2 2 Cinnamon oil 2 3 Peppermint oil 2 FLAVOURING AGENT BASE

32. TATAR REMOVER 32 Tartar and its incrustation are dissolved by the herbal powder mix. Thus, it act as a tartar remover and a polishing product. S. NO INGREDIENTS % 1 Siliceous earth 80 2 Celite powder 5 3 Soap powder 2 4 Magnesium carbonate 5 5 Menthol 1 6 Clove oil 1 7 Cinnamon oil 1 8 Herbal powder mix 5 9 Preservatives QS S.NO INGREDIENTS PART 1 Cocoa powder 10 2 Prunus amygdalus tree root bark 2 HERBAL EXTRACTS MIX BASE Formula

33. GARGLING SOLUTION 33 Gargling solutions made up of herbal powder and water are useful in taking care of the oral mouth, making it free from any inflammation, pain or bleeding of gum and tooth cavities. These are generally used whenever there is either a throat or gum or teeth infection in the oral cavity. S. NO INGREDIENTS % 1 Terminalia chebula -power 5 2 Ficus benghalensis 5 3 Punica granatum -powder 5 4 Azadirachta indica 5 Formula

34. MOUTHWASH 34 Gargles and mouthwashes are used after cleaning the oral cavity, leaving it fresh and free from bad odor, with tingling effect. Mouthwashes are mostly used to mask any foul odor of oral cavity and also keep it fresh. S.NO INGREDIENT % 1 Thymol 1 2 Peppermint oil 2 3 Wintergreen oil 2 4 Alcohol 3 5 Water 80 6 Glycerin 2 7 Glucose 5 8 Colour Q.S Formula

35. HERBAL INGREDIENT USED IN SKIN CARE 35 The herbal approach of proper skin care is principally based on three essential steps. Cleanse Nourish Moisture Whatever any type of skin; these three steps are external care of the skin to protect from the constant effect of environment and skins natural process of cell degradation decay. Therefore in order to help the skin look young, our beauty products & treatments must provide:

36. 36 Exfoliation to remove dead skin cells. Epidermal stimulation for new cell growth. Antioxidant properties for cellular rejuvenation and repair. Improve capillary blood flow. Penetrating moisture and nutrients to replenish all layers of skin. Cleansing agent: Herbal powder to clean and exfoliate the skin on a daily basis. Which remove the dust, dead cell & dirt that close the pores on the skin. Some of the common cleansers include vegetable oils like coconut, sesame and palm oil.

37. 37 Face pack containing turmeric and lime juice removes dead skin cell & refresh the face. Moisturizing &Nourishing : It helps the skin to become soft & supple. It shows a glow and less prone to aging. Some of the herbal moisturizer include Vegetable glycerin, Sorbitol , Rose water, Jojaba oil, Aloe vera , Coconut oil, Sandal wood oil, Almond oil . It helps to improve blood circulation, straighten the connective tissue , there by reducing the wrinkles to keep the skin in good condition.

38. 38 Skin type Herbs Fruits face mask I Dry skin Rubia cardifolia , Sariva , Triphala , Glycyrriza Glabra , Sesame oil, Sunflower oil, Aloe , Coconut oil, Jojoba oil. Banana or Avocado pulp II Sensitive skin Curcuma longa , Santalam alba, Triphala , Azadirachta indica . Banana or Pineapple pulp III Oil skin Tulasi , Nimba , Terminalia arjuna , Triphala , Curcuma longa , Mustaka in mostard oil, Strawberry or papaya pulp HERBAL CLEANING POWDERS

39. HERBAL SKIN PREPARATION 39 Name Important herbal constituents uses Almond lanolin under eye cream Almond oil, lanolin Remove dark circles around the eyes, nourishes and clears skin. Vitaminsed nourishing cream Wheat germ oil, cabbage Provide skin a meaning full look without greasy Aloe Vera rehydant cleansing cream Aloe Vera , lemon extract, carrot extract Removes impurities from skin surface, without disturbing its moisture balance

40. 40 Name Important herbal constituents uses Vitaminised whitening cream Almond oil, lactic acid, vitamin A and D, corrotin seed extract Lightens the skin color, act as powerful astringent porcelains the skin Honey intensive Honey, sandal wood Effective moisturizer, excellent softener, gives nourishment to the skin Apricot luster cream Pure apricot extract, rose oil Gives luster to dry and dull skin Precious herbs Tulsi, wild turmeric, date, apricot. Moisturizer for skin

41. TYPES OF HERBAL CREAM 41 COLD CREAM It is an W/O emulsion in which the fat predominates, but the cooling effect produced when it is applied to the skin is due to slow evaporation of the water contained. Formula: Almond oil 550 parts White bees wax 145 parts Borax 10 parts Water 290 parts Rose water 5 parts

42. 42 VANISHING CREAM Vanishing creams are also called foundation creams, It is an O/W emulsion they disappears when rubbed into skins. Formula: Stearic acid 130 parts Borax crystals 28 parts Sodium carbonate 12 parts Water 740 parts Rose water 9 parts Patchouli oil 1 part

43. 43 CLEANSING CREAMS A satisfactory cleansing cream is water in oil emulsion that melts at temperature of body and spreads readily over the skin. The product should not be sticky; after it is removed , the skin should feel smooth, clean but not greasy, and relaxed. Formula of Chamomile cleansing creams Chamomile flower 50 parts Distilled water 500 parts Lemon juice 5 parts Sodium benzoate 2 parts

44. 44 CREAM FOR ACNE AND PIMPLES Formula : Ingredients Salmalia malabarica 10gm (Silk cotton tree thorn powder) Melia azadirachta ( Neem bark powder ) 3.0gm Symplocus racermoso 1.5gm Curcuma Longa 1.5gm Berberis aristata 1.2gm Pteris Santalinus ( Ratanjali powder) 0.5gm Chandan 0.5gm Andropogon muricatus 0.5gm Glycyrrhiza glabra 0.5gm

45. 45 Rubia cordifolia ( Manjistha powder) 0.5gm Randia dumetorum 0.25gm Quercus infectoria 0.25gm Acorus calamus 1.10gm Aloe vera gel( Kumari ) 2gm Alum powder & Curd qs 20gm ALMOND CREAM FOR DRY SKIN Formula White wax 30gm Almond oil 60ml Rose water 60ml Sodium benzoate 3g

46. 46 NOURISHING CREAM Formula Coconut oil - 45ml Olive oil -30ml Almond oil -15 ml Coca butter -30gm Emulsifying wax - 30gm Bees wax -15gm Borax -10gm Distilled water -45ml

47. 47 ALL PURPOSE FACE PACK Formula: Sandalwood fine powder - 5gm Nagarmotha fine powder - 5gm Ashwagandaha fine powder - 5gm Sariba fine powder - 5gm Manjistha fine powder - 5gm Ambahaldi fine powder - 5gm Turmeric fine powder - 5gm Mix this mixture in milk and multani .

48. 48 EYE CREAM FOR DARK CIRCLES Formula: Lanolin - 15ml Almond oil - 22.5ml Soybean Flour - 5gm Cold water - 10ml NIGHT CREAM Formula: Olive oil 1 tablespoon Shea butter 1 tablespoon Beeswax 1 tablespoon Rosewater 1 tablespoon Lecithin ¼ teaspoon Vitamin E oil 2 capsules

49. 49 FAIRNESS CREAM Herbs used : Aloe vera , Walnut, Rose centifolia , Citrus reticulata , Berberis aristata . Formula: Aqueous extract of Berberis aristata - 20mg Glycyrrhiza glabra - 30mg Saffron -QS Coconut water -QS Oil of sandalwood -0.005 Almond -0.005g Wheat germ -0.005g

50. HERBAL LOTION 50 FACE LOTION This also called bleaching lotions actually mask, rather then lighten the color of skin. These lotions usually contain Alum, Zinc oxide or Titanium dioxide with various proportion of alcohol, Glycerol and water. As delicate flesh tints may also added , such products often serves as liquid powder. Formula: Alum 10part Zinc sulphate 1 part Glycerin 1 part Tincture of benzoin 1part Essence of Rose 30drop

51. 51 SUN BURN LOTION The purpose of sunburn lotion is to assist the skin in tanning without painful effect. The purpose of anti-burning preparation is to minimize the harmful effects of sunburn. The material used for above purpose are known as sun tanning agent & sunburn preventive agents respectively = sunscreens. Tanning agents are those sunscreens which absorb a minimum of 85% UVR(wavelengths of 2900-3200Å) but transmit UVR wavelength longer then 3200Å - produce light transient tan. Sunburn preventive agent are those sunscreens which absorb more than 95% of more UVR (wavelengths of 2900-3200Å).

52. 52 Another type of sunburn preventive agent which scatter the sunlight. These include Titanium dioxide, kaolin, Zinc oxide, Calcium carbonate and magnesium oxide. Formula:- Lemon juice 5ml Xanthan powder 2.5gml Castor oil 5ml Avocado oil 15ml Essential oil 3ml Titanium Dioxide 0.2gm Hot distilled water 60ml

53. 53 ANTI-WRINKLE LOTION Formula: Vitis vinifera (Grapes) 10ml Citrus lemon 5ml Solanum lycopersicum (tomato) 20ml Aloe- vera fresh gel 50ml MOISTURISING LOTION Formula: Aloe- vera juice 1000ml Wheat germ oil 100ml Bees wax 50gm

54. 54 It has a powerful antioxidant that tones and softens the skin and prevent skin damage caused by UV & pollution. It is suitable for normal and oily skin. MOISTURIZING LOTION FOR DRY AND SCALY SKIN Formula: Rubia cordifolia decoction 50ml Aloe- vera juice 50ml ANTIAGING AGENT Golden Root( Rhodiola rosea ), Carrot, Gingko.

55. 55 FACE POWDER Its prime function the ability to complement skin color by imparting velvet like finish. It enhance the appearance of the skin by masking the shin due to the secretion of the sebaceous and sweat gland. Formula: Talc 75 parts Zinc oxide 10 parts Rice starch 10 parts Zinc stearate 5 parts Perfume & color q.s

56. RAW MATERIAL USED IN FACE POWDER & THEIR CHARACTERISTICS 56 Raw material Outstanding characteristics Talk Slip Kaolin Absorbency, adhesion Precipitated calcium carbonate Absorbency, bloom Magnesium carbonate Absorbency Zinc & magnesium stearates Adhesion , water proofness Rice starch Absorbency, bloom Silica and silicates Absorbency Titanium dioxide Opacity Zinc oxide Opacity Forested-look materials (guanine bismuthoxychloride , aluminum,) Sparkle, Pearly effect

57. REVIEW OF GUIDELINES FOR HERBAL COSMETICS BY PRIVATE BODIES LIKE COSMOS WITH RESPECT TO PRESERVATIVES, EMOLLIENTS, FOAMING AGENTS, EMULSIFIERS AND RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS . 57

58. COSMOS 58 COSMOS  stands for " cosmetic organic and natural standard ", which sets certification requirements for  organic  and  natural   cosmetics  products in the  europe . It was developed by five charters members: BDIH ( germany ). Cosmebio ( france ). Ecocert ( france ). Icea ( italy ). Soil association (great britain ). The standard is recognized globally by the  cosmetic industry .

59. 59 By adhering to specific guidelines, cosmetics marketers can use COSMOS signatures, which are registered  trademarks , on packaging to confirm the products meet minimum industry requirements to be considered organic or natural. What does it contain? The cosmos-standard applies to cosmetic products that are marketed as organic or natural. Its guiding principles are to: Promote the use of products from organic agriculture, and respect biodiversity. Use natural resources, and respect the environment. Use processing and manufacturing that are clean and respect the human health and environment. Integrate and develop the concept of “green chemistry”.

60. PRESERVATIVES 60 Cosmetic preservatives allowed by   Ecocert and COSMOSE are considered more skin friendly than some traditional preservatives. Preservatives are the chemical substances used to improve or amplify shelf life of drugs by decreasing or lowering the oxidation of active and excipients and by reducing microbial production According to the latest Ecocert and COSMOS standards the following preservatives are allowed in cosmetic products certified as natural and organic: 

61. 61 Phenoxyethanol  – This ingredient is not approved by COSMOS but it is a common preservative for natural formulation. It has a light rose odor. It is effective against some bacteria and fungi. Also good against pseudomonas.   It has a wide pH range and is effective from pH 3 – 10. Phenethyl Alcohol  – This ingredient is approved by COSMOS and works similarly to phenoxyethanol . It has a stronger odor. Organic acids and their salts  – There are a wide range of organic acids that are effective as preservatives.

62. 62 These include: Benzoic acid Sodium benzoate Sorbic acid Potassium sorbate Dehydroacetic acid Salicylic acid These ingredients are mostly approved by the COSMOS standard and are effective against fungi and to some extent bacteria. They only work at lower pH however so if you use them you need to formulate below pH 5.0

63. 63 Benzyl Alcohol  – This material is effective against a broad spectrum of microbes. While it can be found in nature most of the benzyl alcohol used commercially is synthetically produced. One drawback is that it is a known allergen. There are also some compatibility issues with benzyl alcohol and nonionic surfactants. Natural preservative boosters: The following ingredients can help disrupt growth by interfering with the microbial cell membranes. Caprylyl Alcohol Caprylic Acid

64. 64 Gluconolactone Glyceryl Caprylate Ethylhexyglycerin Other fragrance components have some preservative boosting activity Levulinic Acid p- Anisic Acid There are also some enzymatic systems that have been successfully employed in natural cosmetic formulations. Glucose Oxidase Lactoperoxidase

65. 65 Some natural ingredients that have some antimicrobial functionality. They are not broad spectrum effective so should not be used as the sole preservative system. Tea tree oil Rosemary Cinnamon Grapes fruit seed extract Honeysuckle extract

66. EMOLLIENTS 66 Emollient is a refatting agent, i.e. An ingredient of a cosmetic formulation that provides the skin with the fat it needs. It reduces evaporation and thus increases the moisture content of the skin. According to COSMOS standard for Natural & Organic Cosmetics : Candelilla Cera Palmitic & Stearic Acid Isopropyl Myristate Isopropyl Palmitate

67. 67 Jojoba Esters / Sunflower Seed Wax / Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax / Polyglycerin Propanediol Pentylene Glycol Apricot Kernel Extract Glycerin (and) Water (and) Prunus Amygdalus (Sweet Almond) Oil (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) Citric Acid Beeswax (and) Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

68. EMULSIFIERS 68 Emulsifiers are used as adjuvants for combining non-miscible fluids into an emulsion. The molecular structure of the emulsifiers reduces the surface tension between the hydrophilic and lipophilic constituents, thus promoting the formation of finely dispersed mixtures. The emulsion stabilizers improve and help to maintain the stability and shelf-life of dispersions. According to COSMOS standard for Natural & Organic Cosmetics: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

69. 69 Glyceryl Oleate Citrate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Stearate (and) Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Glyceryl Oleate Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate Coco- Betaine Cocamidopropyl Betaine Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate

70. 70 Sorbitan Oleate (and) Hydrogenated Castor Oil (and) Beeswax (and) Stearic Acid Sorbitan Isostearate (and) Hydrogenated Castor Oil (and) Beeswax (and) Stearic Acid Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (and) Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Apricot Kernel Oil

71. FOAMING AGENTS 71 Surfactants are surface active agents widely used in cosmetics products specially in Shampoos, Dentifrices, etc. These compounds are characterized by foam production and reduction of surface or interfacial tension. According to COSMOS standard for Natural & Organic Cosmetics: Coco- Betaine Cocamidopropyl Betaine Sodium Cocoamphoacetate Caprylyl Capryl Glucoside \Coco- Glucoside Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Decyl glucoside

72. 72 Lauryl Glucoside Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate (and) Lauryl Glucoside Coco- Glucoside (and) Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate (and) Glycerin Sodium Cocoamphoacetate (and) Glycerin (and) Lauryl Glucoside (and) Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate (and) Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Sodium Coco Sulfate

73. RHEOLOGY MDIFIERS 73 The term Rheology derived from two Greek words namely rheo (to flow) and logos (science). Rheology is the science that deals with the deformation of matter under the influence of stresses like tensile stress, shearing stress, etc., It deals with the fluids flow. Rheological additives generally focused to Thickeners. Their primary roles in flow behavior may include detergency, emulsification, foam stability or conditioning.

74. 74 According to COSMOS standard for Natural & Organic Cosmetics : Xanthan Gum Sclerotium Gum Sclerotium Gum (and) Xanthan Gum Cetearyl Alcohol Hydrogenated Rapeseed Alcohol Apricot Kernel Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil Cellulose Gum Microcrystalline Cellulose Microcrystalline Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum Avocado Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

75. CHALLENGES IN FORMULATING HERBAL COSMETICS 75 Natural cosmetic and beauty products are vogue now a days and cosmetic marketers around the world are looking to launch their own version that appeals to green-seeking consumers. However, making natural cosmetics is fraught with difficulties stemming from the fact that beauty products do not exist in nature. The biggest challenges in making natural cosmetics include: Defining what is natural Making products that are suitably functional

76. 76 Defining Natural Before review natural cosmetics, it is helpful to first discuss what is meant by the term natural. For this discussion, use a three-level classification system of natural cosmetics: True natural  - Ingredients are isolated from a plant and chemically purified, but otherwise unchanged. Acceptable natural  - Ingredients conform to some acceptable natural standard that allows some chemical modification. Green washing natural  - Ingredients are naturally derived but require significant chemical synthesis to produce.

77. 77 The majority of natural products on the market would be considered green washed. Making Functional Products The biggest challenge to making natural cosmetics is that consumers have an expectation of how well products are supposed to work. While consumers might say they want green or natural products, they really want products that work.  When formulating natural cosmetics, it becomes difficult because natural or naturally derived ingredients do not work as well as some of the synthetic ingredients.

78. 78 This is especially true for surfactants, colorants and preservatives. Surfactants Surfactants are the most versatile and important ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Unfortunately, there are not many surfactants that naturally occur, so trying to make natural formulas with surfactants is a real challenge.  True natural - There are not many natural surfactants that are adequate for use as cleansers.

79. 79 The closest are saponins . These are glycoside compounds that have the ability to form foam when put in a water solution. They are found in plants like yucca ( Yucca schidigera ), soapwort ( Saponaria officinalis ), soapbark ( Quillaja saponaria ) and soapnut ( Sapindus spp ). The majority of commercial saponins are derived from soapbark or soapnut via water and alcohol extraction. Unfortunately, formulators reported using saponins for cleansing products have been disappointed in their performance.

80. 80 Acceptable natural - according to USDA natural organic standards, there are no natural surfactants you can use. Some companies like nourish organic use a chemical trick where they create a surfactant  in situ  by including natural ingredients that chemically react to make a soap. In one formula, the coconut oil will saponify with the potassium hydroxide. If you are following the cosmos standard, there are many surfactants that are acceptable.

81. 81 The ones typically used for cleansing products are lauryl glucoside , decyl glucoside , caprylyl / decyl glucoside , coco glucoside and cocamidopropyl betaine . COSMOS standard even allows for the use of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) since it can be derived from natural sources. Green washing natural - The use of cleansing surfactants like SLS is probably not a good idea. Sulfates have a bad reputation, and even though they are considered natural by the COSMOS standard.

82. 82 However, some companies simply replace sulfates with other synthetic anionic surfactants. These include ingredients like taurates , sarcosinates , and glutamates. Colorants In United States, there is no ingredient more highly regulated in cosmetics than colorants. It is illegal to use any ingredient (no matter the source) to color cosmetics that is not approved by FDA for such use. This means if you producing natural cosmetics the colors you can use  will be strictly limited.

83. 83 The majority of approved colorants are synthetic ingredients. Even mineral ingredients like iron oxides, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are all synthetic. The only approved versions must be synthetically produced in the lab. The naturally occurring minerals are dangerous. The synthetic versions have much less contamination. There are some colorants don't require FDA certification and come directly from nature such as annatto, chlorophyllin , carmine, henna and caramel.

84. 84 Unfortunately, there is a limited range of colors ingredients can provide. The strategy most of natural cosmetic companies follow to either use the direct-from-nature colorants or use standard colorants. Preserving Products We use natural ingredients becomes more challenging because microbes are found in nature. Effective preservatives such as Parabens , formaldehyde donors do not fit with a natural theme, so we need alternatives such as Phenoxyethanol , Phenethyl alcohol, organic acids and their salts, benzyl alcohol, and other natural materials.

85. 85 Phenoxyethanol and Phenethyl alcohol have a distinct odor that is difficult to cover. Organic acids only work as preservatives at lower pH levels, which is not ideal for certain types of beauty care products. Benzyl alcohol is a known allergen. Other natural materials like tea tree oil, rosemary or cinnamon are not broad spectrum enough to work as a stand alone preservative.

86. REFERENCES 86 Kuntal Das., Herbal plants and their Application in Cosmeceuticals , page No:46-83. Vimaladevi.m ., Text book of Herbal cosmetics, Page no:74-103. Rajesh Kumar Nema Kamal Singh Rathore Bal krishna Dubey ., Text book of Cosmetics, Page no:257-285. http://chemistscorner.com/3-challenges-to-formulating-natural-products/

87. 87 https://www.naturalproductsinsider.com/beauty/challenges-formulating-natural-cosmetic-line https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmos_(standard) https://cosmos-standard.org/the-cosmos-standard/ http://www.cosmos-standard-rm.org/verifmp.php https://www.bergschmidt.de/en/Cosmetic/c21_emollient.php#

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