Joinery and process

Final Report

1. Joinery ,Fitting And Finishing

2. Joinery & its details Joinery is a part of woodworking that involves joining together pieces of wood, to create furniture, structures, toys, and other items. Some wood joints employ fasteners, bindings, or adhesives, while others use only wood elements. The characteristics of wooden joints - strength, flexibility, toughness, etc. - derive from the properties of the joining materials and from how they are used in the joints. Therefore, different joinery techniques are used to meet differing requirements. For example, the joinery used to build a house is different from that used to make puzzle toys, although some concepts overlap.

3. Different kind of Wooden Joints 1. BUTT JOINT : The Butt Joint is an easy woodworking joint. It joins two pieces of wood by merely butting them together. The butt joint is the simplest joint to make. It is also the weakest wood joint unless you use some form of reinforcement. It depends upon glue alone to hold it together. 2. BISCUIT JOINT: A biscuit joint is nothing more than a reinforced Butt joint. The biscuit is an oval-shaped piece. Typically, a biscuit is made of dried and compressed wood, such as beech. You install it in matching mortises in both pieces of the wood joint. Most people use a biscuit joiner to make the mortises. 3. BRIDLE JOINT : A bridle joint is a woodworking joint, similar to a mortise and tenon. You cut a tenon on the end of one piece and a mortise into the other piece to accept it. You cut the tenon and the mortise to the full width of the tenon piece. This is the distinguishing feature of this joint.

4. 4. DADO (JOINERY) : A dado is a slot cut into the surface of a piece of wood. When viewed in cross-section, a dado has three sides. You cut a dado perpendicular to the grain. It is different from a groove, which you cut parallel to the grain. 5. MORTISE AND TENON WOODWORKING JOINTS : One of the strongest woodworking joints is the mortise and tenon joint. This joint is simple and strong. Woodworkers have used it for many years. Normally you use it to join two pieces of wood at 90-degrees.   6. FINGER JOINT : A finger joint or box joint is one of the popular woodworking joints. You use it to join two pieces of wood at right angles to each other. It is much like a dovetail joint except that the pins are square and not angled.

5. 7. LAP WOOD JOINT: A half lap joint is one of the frequently used woodworking joints. In a half lap joint, you remove material from each piece so that the resulting joint is the thickness of the thickest piece.  8.. POCKET-HOLE JOINERY: One of the more popular woodworking joints is the Pocket-Hole Joint. It is nothing more than a Butt joint with Pocket Hole Screws. The pocket holes require two drilling operations. The first is to counter bore the pocket hole itself, which takes the screw head contained by the piece. The second step is to drill a pilot hole whose centreline is the same as the pocket hole. 9. DOVETAIL WOOD JOINT : The dovetail joint, or simply dovetail, is a strong woodworking joint. It is great for tensile strength (resistance from pulling apart). You use the dovetail joint to connect the sides of a drawer to the front.

6. 10. RABBET WOODWORKING JOINTS : A rabbet is a recess cut into the edge of a piece of wood. When viewed in cross-section, a rabbet is two-sided and open to the end of the surface. An example of the use of a rabbet is in the back edge of a cabinet. 11. TONGUE AND GROOVE WOODWORKING JOINTS : One of the more popular woodworking joints is the edge-to-edge joint, called tongue and groove. One piece has a slot (groove) cut all along one edge. The other piece has a tongue cut on the mating edge.

7. Basic Woodworking Tools Power jointer and thickness planer Circular saw Hand saws, a router and two router bits.  Jigsaw Combination square and tape measure A power drill or two Rasps, files, a random-orbit sander, a smoothing plane and a block plane.  Joinery gadgets Chisels and a wooden mallet. A hammer and some screwdrivers. A Workmate, a puttering bench and clamps.  

8. Wood Spiral Hanger Stand Spiral assembly consists of hundreds of joints. Many of these joints are small and relatively delicate. Many of the joints in a spiral staircase are doweled or use mortise and tenon joints, which are nothing more than one small piece of wood penetrating into a corresponding piece of wood. You can't take them apart; the assembly is too complicated. But you can reinforce them. Preferably used joint in case of Wooden Spiral Hanger : DOVETAIL WOOD JOINT MORTISE AND TENON WOODWORKING JOINTS

9. Construction Details : Tighten all the bolts you can find. Depending on the design, there will be a series of 1/2-inch bolts securing individual brackets at the bottom and at the top where individual balusters are fastened to the stairs and underneath the handrail. They will be in pairs. Use a 1/2-inch socket and ratchet to tighten each bolt up and down the staircase until all of the brackets are tight. 2 Insert a 1/4-inch drill bit into a drill/driver. Place your hands on the staircase handrail. Wiggle it from side to side. Identify joints where you can see movement. Drill diagonally upward or downward through the joint at a 30-degree angle. Ensure the bit penetrates through both components of the joint. Visualize where the dowel or tenon penetrates into the joint and angle the bit to penetrate through it. If you're not sure if the joint is loose, drill through it anyway. It's OK to do all the joints if you want. 3 Inject glue into the holes, using the tip of the glue bottle. Tap a dowel into the hole with a hammer so that it emerges out the other side of the hole. Place a clamp on the joint to add pressure to it, if possible. If you have limited clamps, do as many as you can. Leave the clamps on for one hour, then take them off and do another section. Wait 24 hours after you place the last clamp. 4 Remove all the clamps. Trim the ends off of each dowel, using a coping saw. Trim them flush with the joint. If you can't get the saw into a tight space, use a chisel to cut the end off of the dowel. 5 File off the cut ends of the dowels, using a fine-tooth file. Ensure to file them flush and smooth. Try to refrain from scratching or gouging the handrail, but if you do damage it slightly, use a piece of 100-grit sandpaper to smooth any scratches on the staircase. 6 Color the repaired joints with a color-matched stain marker. Color the ends of the dowels and any sanded places to finish.

10. Design Steps :

11. Techniques for Oak Finishes Proper sanding I sand oak to 220 grit. Although lots of people stop at 180 grit, I find going one more step really polishes the dense latewood and enhances its contrast with the coarse early wood. Scuff-sand carefully Scuff-sand with 280- or 320-grit paper between coats of shellac and varnish. A light touch is all that’s needed. Care must be taken not to sand through one layer of finish into the next. Create a ground colour with dye Many great oak finishes begin with a “ground colour” dye, typically a yellow or reddish brown. The ground color establishes the finish’s predominate undertone. Apply the dye liberally to bare wood with a brush or spray bottle. Blot up any excess with a clean rag.. Add a barrier coat of shellac Shellac sealer brings the dyed oak to life. At the same time, it creates a barrier that prevents dyes or stains from bleeding into the next layer of finish. The barrier coat also creates distinct, well-defined layers that really add depth and beauty. Shellac is also used as a barrier coat between a colored glaze layer and the final topcoat.It should say something like “universal sanding sealer” and “100-percent wax-free formula.”

12. Glaze deepens the grain contrast A glaze layer is the secret ingredient to a great oak finish. A dark glaze emphasizes oak’s beautiful strong grain. Glaze is nothing more than a thick stain applied over a sealed surface.. Top coating protects the color A protective topcoat adds depth and durability. Typical topcoats are oil-based or water-based varnish or lacquer. They protect the finish you’ve laboured so diligently to create, as well as the wood beneath it. Dewaxed shellac is the perfect sealer because it’s compatible with any topcoat you choose.

13. Four proven finishes for oak A good finish should highlight the best characteristics of the wood it goes on. I’ve put together four finish recipes that make the most of oak’s contrasting grain. The first three recipes use two different color layers, each separated by a seal coat of shellac. Light penetrates and reflects back through the layers, giving these finishes stunning depth and beauty. The fourth is a simple, out-of-the-can recipe that produces a surprisingly good-looking finish. Mission oak This finish is designed specifically for quarter sawn white oak. Sanding the dye coat ever so lightly really enhances the ray flecks. 1. Apply a 50-50 mix of Trans Tint Dark Mission brown and medium brown dye tothe bare wood and let it dry. 2. Very lightly scuff-sand the dyed wood with 320-grit paper. 3. Seal the dye with a barrier coat of wax-free shellac. 4. Scuff-sand. 5. Glaze with Varathane dark walnut gel stain. 6. Seal with wax-free shellac and scuff-sand when dry. 7. Apply a topcoat of your choice.

14. Golden oak This is a classic oak finish familiar to any antique lover. The glaze layer darkens the open-pored early wood and contrasts beautifully with the brownish-gold latewood. This finish looks best on red oak. 1. Trans Tint honey amber dye to the bare wood and let it dry. 2. Seal with shellac and scuff-sand when dry. 3. Glaze with Varathane dark walnut gel stain. 4. Seal with shellac and scuff-sand when dry. 5. Apply a topcoat of your choice. Deep, dark, red oak This finish looks great on plain sawn red oak boards and is impossible to get straight out of a can. The red dye is incredibly strong. But the gel stain is applied without a barrier coat so it darkens both the early wood and latewood. 1. Apply Trans Tint bright scarlet to the bare wood and let it dry. 2. Apply Minwax jet black mahogany gel stain. 3. Seal with wax-free shellac and scuff-sand when dry. 4. Apply a topcoat of your choice. .

15. Simple, but nice, oak finish This finish is as easy as it gets. Its results are not as spectacular as those of the other three recipes. But it makes up for its plainer look with ease of application. 1. Apply two coats of Rocker's Mission Oak Wipe-On gel stain. 2. Seal with shellac and scuff-sand when dry. 3. Apply a topcoat of your choice.

16. Material Estimation ,Costing and Valuation Skpm Timber (Suppliers) Contact Person: Sanjeev Mohan D-65, First Floor, Shubham Enclave, Paschim Vihar New Delhi - 110063, Delhi, India [phone] https://www.indiamart.com/skpmtimber/

17. Founded in 1983, we, SKPM Timber, are the leading Wholesaler, Supplier and Importer of Wood Chip Boards, Maple Wood, White Oak Wood, Basralocus ,Lumber Wood, Cherry Walnut Wood, White Ash Lumber, Steam Beach Wood, Merbau Wood, IPE Wood, Teak Wood, Red Oak. These are highly used in the market owing to their smooth surface, termite resistance, sturdiness, durability, long life and unmatched quality. Experts develop this range in a compliance of most modern trends with customer requirements. Other product

18. Features: Oak Wood Excellent finish Durable High tensile strength Rs 1,400Cubic Feet(s) Features: White Oak Wood Termite resistance Unmatched quality Low prices Rs 1,300Cubic Feet(s)

19. Prototype Product

20. Actual Product dimensions 6’ 5’6’’ 6’’ 8’’ 4’’ 8’’