Milady chapter 16 Haircutting

Ch 16 Milady Haircutting

1. MILADY HAIRCUTTING Reference Points. Principles. Tools. Techniques .

2. OBJECTIVES Identify the reference points on the head and understand their role in haircutting. Define lines, sections, elevations, and guidelines. List the factors involved in a successful client consultation. Explain the uses of the various tools of haircutting. Name three things you can do to ensure good posture and body position while cutting hair. (continues)

3. Perform the four basic haircuts. List the multiple ways to section and cut the bang (fringe) area. Discuss and explain three different texturizing techniques performed with shears. Explain a clipper cut. Identify the uses of a trimmer.

4. Haircutting is a basic, foundational skill that all other hair design is built An art form that allows you to shape, design and cut hair into endless designs Foundational skills set you up to understand and perform the principles of haircutting Understanding reference points & bone structure allow for customizable cuts for your guest Having a thorough understanding of the rules allows you to break them, building confidence in your self and with your guest Great revenue in haircutting; becoming skilled instills trust between you and your guest WHY STUDY HAIRCUTTING?

5. REFERENCE POINTS- Areas on the head where it changes shape Bone structure changes from person to person Hair reacts/responds differently at the reference points CROWN- Growth patterns SIDES- Change in hairline & size/shape of ears FRONT/NAPE- De nsity changes, shape of skull changes Apex, Parietal Ridge, Top, Sides, Front, Back, 4 Corners, Occipital, Nape

6. LINES, SECTIONS & ANGLES- Determines shape & technique 2 types of line in haircutting Lines are a thin continuous mark Extends for infinity 3 types of STRAIGHT LINE Determines what technique you will use : 1 length, graduation, layer

7. LINE- Horizontal 1 Length, 0 degrees, Blunt cut Creates width Creates weight line Draws eye side to side Maintains same direction Ideal for fine hair & or low density LINES, SECTIONS & ANGLES- Determines shape & technique

8. LINE- Vertical Layers, graduation Removes weight Creates length and or height Draws eye up & down; elongates shape & face Maintains same direction Ideal for dense,coarse hair, high density, round face; creates narrow shape LINES, SECTIONS & ANGLES- Determines shape & technique

9. LINE- Diagonal Mostly seen in Graduation; 1 lengths, layers Builds weight Create emphasis/ focal point Draws eye to certain area of style Maintains same direction Ideal for all hair types, low & medium density Minimize or enhance facial shape LINES, SECTIONS & ANGLES- Determines shape & technique

10. LINE- Curved Used to soften and or blend Can be full or partial circle Move in a circular pattern Face frame, Fringe, Blending layers LINES, SECTIONS & ANGLES- Determines shape & technique

11. ELEVATION- Determines Technique Angle the hair is held from the head Elevation decides technique: 1Length ( Blunt ), Layers, Graduation Describes in degrees Between 0 and 180 Below 90 builds weight Above 90 removes weight Be aware cur l pattern & how much hair shrinks as it dries Elevation – angle at which hair is held from head Graduation – layers described in degrees Shrinkage – hair contracts as it dries

12. ELEVATION- Determines Technique CUTTING LINE- Angle at which fingers are held when cutting Angle/Elevation used in your technique Finger position, Finger angle, Cutting angle, Section angle BUILDS WEIGHT REMOVES WEIGHT BUILDS WEIGHT/EMPHASIS

13. HAND POSTIONS FOR CUTTING ANGLES/ S.A.A - LAYERS - 1 LENGTH (BLUNT); GRADUATIONS - GRADUATION; LAYERS

14. GUIDELINES- STATIONARY- All hair come to same point; over direction can be used TRAVELING/MOBILE/MOVEABLE- Small section of guide moves to each section through out the cut Below Parietal Ridge is EXTERIOR/ PERIMETER; Above is INTERIOR

15. OVERDIRECTION- Forward & Backward Combing hair away from natural falling position Graduations, layers & 1 lengths ( Blunt ) Backwards: maintains length in the front Forwards: maintains length in the back

16. HAIRCUTTING CONSULTATION- Communication builds wealth D.E.P.T.H Scalp analysis & bone structure Growth patterns Speak to them, not the mirror When was their last cut How often do they get it cut How much effort do they put in at h ome How often are they willing to maintain What products do they use at home Lifestyle: care er, hobbies etc Classic or Trendy Face shape Can their desired result even be achieved with their texture & density Be honest!! COMMUNICATE density. elasticity. porosity. texture. hair history

17. HAIRCUTTING CONSULTATION- Communication builds wealth Instead of asking “ What do you have in mind today?” ASK “What do you want to achieve with your hair?” Ask what they like about their hair now…What has been done in the past that they DID NOT like…..What has been done that they DID like Are you – The stylist- hesitant about the goal? Be honest Is length a priority? Have guest describe & show you her desired length Communicate with guest if they are making a BIG change- make sure it is not an emotional decision WATCH their body language and eyes say/react REPEAT back what they said

18. A game plan A technique and end shape What tools you will be using What products you will be using to shampoo, condition and style Use proper draping REMEMBER to always record what you did & Products you used/recommended!! Decide on: HAIRCUTTING CONSULTATION- Communication builds wealth

19. What can effect your decision - Face & Head Shape

20. What can effect your decision? WAVE PATTERN TEXTURE DENSITY LOW MEDIUM HIGH

21. What can effect your decision? Fine VS Coarse Finger Angle Growth Pattern

22. Your foundation begins here - Perimeter/ One length .... Tension, Elevation, HAIRLINE, What's in the way? ( ears, shoulders, chair)

23. Show Proper use of Haircutting Tools Haircutting and texturizing shears Straight razor ( cntinues ) Razor comb Straight razor Can have guard ( like feather razor) BLUNT/HEAVY OR CHOPPY LINE WISPY/SOFT LINE

24. HAIRCUTTING TOOLS Clippers Trimmers/ Edgers Sectioning clips Wide-tooth comb Tail comb Barber comb Cutting/Styling comb 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

25. All About Shears Steel - Japan, Germany, United States; 440 A ( 56) to 440 C; Stainless steel- Carbon content VS iron; not able to rust Titanium added VS coating Hitachi – highest quality steel V(g) 10- Japanese high quality- added titanium Gauging hardness is known as THE ROCKWELL HARDNESS: 56/57 is ideal; 63 too hard/brittle Cast shears - Mold; more fragile, cheaper, mass produced Forged shears -Heated & hammered/pressed; more durable, longer lasting

26. Parts of a Shear Cutting edge Pivot Adjustment knob Finger tang Ring-finger hole Thumb hole Convex blade gives smoothest cut; sharpest edge, requires less force to cut ; Beveled edge- more dull, hear cutting, cheap

27. SHEAR MAINTENENCE Shears need to be cleaned after every guest Wipe with towel to remove debris & hair Wipe with rubbing al cohol Lubricate with shear oil - at least weekly Have sharpened when needed Use Clippercide for clippers Lubricate clippers

28. Left-Handed vs. Right-Handed There is a difference between a right-handed and a left-handed shear. Simply taking a right-handed shear and turning it over does not make it appropriate for a left-handed cutter, because the blades of the shear need to be reversed. Left blade is on top

29. GRIPS

30. Regular shears, thumb is vertical, wrist may be arched Swivel thumb is a natural position( like shaking hands ) Horizontal cutting action; allows for less stress, fatigue SWIVEL

31. Purchasing Shears Know how the shear was manufactured. Ask about the steel quality. Decide on the right blade edge. Decide on the best handle design for you. Be sure of fit.

32. Hold shears in hand. Swivel thumb shears. Learn about service agreement. Ask about warranty. Analyze cost. Determine how many needed . Purchasing Shears

33. Fitting the Shear Correctly Fitting ring finger Fitting thumb Relaxing grip Correct finger position and alignment

34. Holding Your Tools Holding shears

35. HOLDING YOUR SHEARS Holding shears properly Moving THUMB ONLY Palming shears; Holding comb

36. Holding the Razor Method A Open razor so handle is higher than shank. Place thumb on thumb grip. Place index, middle, and ring fingers on shank. Place little finger in tang. Position razor on top of subsection. (continues)

37. Method B Open razor so handle and shank form a straight line. Place thumb on grip and wrap fingers around handle. Holding the Razor

38. Handling the Comb and Tension Both the wide and fine teeth of the comb are regularly used when cutting hair. The wide teeth are used for combing and parting hair, while the finer teeth comb the section before cutting. Tension is the amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a subsection.

39. Understand Proper Posture and Body Position Position the client. Sitting straight Legs not crossed Center your weight. Knees slightly bent, not locked Bend one knee to lean slightly Stand in front of section being cut.

40. HAND POSTIONS FOR CUTTING ANGLES/ S.A.A - LAYERS - 1 LENGTH (BLUNT); GRADUATIONS - GRADUATION; LAYERS

41. TECHNIQUES Your technique is determined by your elevation; how you want your end result to look: 3 Techniques but endless possibilities!!!!! 1 Length, Layers, Graduation 4 Basic cuts that fall within those 3 techniques: 0 degrees 45 degrees 90 degrees 180 degrees 0 Degrees; 1 LENGTH GRADUATION LAYERS

42. Blunt haircut Also known as a one-length haircut. Hair comes to a single hanging level, forming a weight line . Cut Hair using Basic Haircutting Techniques

43. TECHNIQUES- 1 LENGTH Also known as BLUNT and 0 Degrees All hair falls to the same point NO ELEVATION Stationary guide Can use Overdirection Section angle is parallel to the floor Creates width & volume Makes fine hair appear thicker Draws eye side to side Weight line is at the perimeter 3 basic 1 lengths: square, round & triangle ( diagonal )

44. Graduated Haircut Build up of weight. Caused by cutting the hair with tension, low to medium elevation, or overdirection . The ends of the hair appear to be stacked.

45. TECHNIQUES- GRADUATION Also known as Stacked, Wedge, Pageboy Standard elevation is 45 degrees Over direction is used throughout the haircut Creates volume and emphasis/focal point Weight line is where “stack” forms Can be stationary or traveling guide Below occipital is “tapered” Graduation can live anywhere between 1 degree & 45 degrees

46. Layered Haircut The hair is cut at higher elevations, usually 90 degrees. Layered haircuts generally have less weight than graduated haircuts. In a layered haircut, the ends appear farther apart.  

47. TECHNIQUES- 180 Degrees Also known as “Long Layers” or Shag 180 Degree elevation All subsections are OVERDIRECTED to top ( apex ) Subtle movement in hair style Reduces weight but can give body Let length “fall out” Check for “Corners”/ Blending points Be aware of parietal ridge, density at hairline & fringe area

48. TECHNIQUES- 90 Degrees Also known at “Uniform layers” 90 Degree elevation Traveling guide Subsections are cut with round of the head Adds volume on top Reduces weight/ taper sides & below Occipital

49. HAIRCUTTING SAFETY Palm the shears - prevent cutting yourself, your guest or accidently cutting hair Do not cut past Second Knuckle - Tension changes Take care around the ears - skin is thinner Adjust tension of shears Use razor guard Dispose of razor blades properly Blood spill kit - add extra gloves & ziplock bags

50. HAIRCUTTING TIPS Clean partings: control, consistency Lines & sections Crown & nape/ hairline Around the ears Tension/ Shrinking Head position Moisture Guideline Cross check Use the mirror Check balance Stand in front of you

51. Shrinks more than straight hair- sometimes over 2 inches Minimal tension Wide tooth comb Naturally graduates itself Expands more than straight hair May need to be styled straight before cutting CURLY HAIR TIPS

52. Cutting the Bangs The bang or fringe area includes the hair that lies between the two front corners. Be sure the hair is either damp or completely dry. Do not use tension, allow for the natural lift of the hair.

53. Gives a softer appearance than a shear cut. The razor is a great option when working with medium hair textures. When working with a razor, the ends are cut at an angle and the line is not blunt. This produces softer shapes with more visible separation, or a feathered effect, on the ends. Guide above fingers. Avoid using on fine, coarse, wiry, curly or damaged hair. Always use a guard. Always use a new blade. Keep hair wet. Hold razor at an angle; never force. RAZOR CUTTING/ TEXTURIZING

54. Slide Cutting Used to cut or thin hair. Blends shorter hair to longer. Useful in texturizing. Only on wet hair.

55. Scissor-Over-Comb Hair held in place with comb. Shear tips remove length. Method used to create short tapers. Works best on dry hair. Lift hair with comb; comb acts as guide. (continues)

56. Do not hold hair between fingers. Shears and comb move up head together. Strive for continual motion. Scissor-Over-Comb

57. Texturizing with Shears Point-cutting and notching (continues)

58. Texturizing with Shears Point-cutting and notching (continues)

59. Free-hand notching Effilating or slithering Slicing Carving Carving the ends Texturizing with Shears

60. Effilating or slithering Texturizing with Shears

61. Texturizing with Shears Slicing

62. Texturizing with Shears Carving

63. Texturizing with the Razor Removing weight Free-hand slicing at midshaft

64. Texturizing with Thinning Shears and Razor Remove bulk or weight. Section as for haircut. Comb subsection from head. Cut 4 to 5 inches from scalp. Stay farther from scalp for coarse hair. Remove weight from ends. (continues)

65. Texturizing with the Razor

66. Thinning shears-over-comb Other thinning shears techniques Free-hand slicing with razor Razor-over-comb Razor rotation Texturizing with Thinning Shears and Razor

67. Effectively Use Clippers and Trimmers Electric or battery-operated tools that cut the hair by using two moving blades held in place by a metal plate with teeth. Mainly used for cutting shorter haircuts and can be used to create a taper .

68. MENS CUTTING- TOOLS

69. Clipper-Over-Comb Stand in front of the section. Comb placement. Hold the comb stationary. Stop to cut.

70. MENS CUTTING- TECHNIQUES

71. Trimming Facial Hair Using tool-over-comb method Cutting against comb Using length guard Brow and ear hair

72. What are reference points and what is their function? What are lines, sections, elevations, and guidelines? What are important considerations to discuss with a client during a haircutting consultation ? (continues) Chapter Review Questions

73. What are a razor, haircutting shears, styling or cutting comb, and texturizing shears used for? Name three steps to ensuring good posture and body position while cutting hair. Name and describe four basic types of haircuts . Chapter Review Questions

74. What is another name for bangs ? When should you avoid cutting bangs? Name five basic types of bangs. Name and describe at least three different texturizing techniques performed with shears. (continues) 9. What is a clipper cut? 10. How is a trimmer used? Chapter Review Questions