Milady Hairstyling

Milady Ch 17 Hairstyling

1. History. Tools. Wet Styling. Heat Styling. Updos MILADY HAIRSTYLING

2. THE WHY?? Historical and technical knowledge of hairstyling will prepare you for the constant changes of fashion Inspiration is often found in the past. Hairstyling is a foundational skill that allows you to articulate creativity and deliver a specific outcome Guests rely on you to teach them -how to style it for their lifestyle and fashion needs. Hairstyling skills will allow you and your guest to stay contemporary, unique & modern

3. DAY 1- Fingerwaves , Pincurls , Rollers DAY 2- Thermal, Tools, Products DAY 3- Hair Pressing DAY 4- Upstyles & Review

4. ttempts to temporarily straighten over curly hair dates back to the early Egyptians; their crude methods actually involved packing the hair with mud and allowing it to dry, which relaxed the curl to some degree.  In the early 1800s, heated butter knives and cloths, axle grease and homemade lye were used to straighten hair also another method included irons heated in tin cans over a fire by African Americans.  They protected their hair from the intense heat by applying hog lard onto the hair. In 1872, Marcel Greteau was credited as being one of the first to use a hot comb with fine teeth in Paris as it was used by the French women to silken their hair.  In the 1900s Madam C J Walker (Sara Breedlove) would revolutionize the black hair industry by incorporating the hot comb into the “shampoo/press/and curl” method.  She has been credited for widening the teeth on the comb for coarse hair for use by African American women and men.  Her redesign of the hot comb was patented and she has been lauded as the first self-made African American millionaire for her efforts.

5. Factors that may influence setting and dressing services: Hair cut Hair growth patterns Hair length Hair density Head and face shape Hair texture Hair elasticity The occasion for which the style is required Each of these factors will need to be discussed Applying the correct techniques when setting hair will let you know if you need volume, lift and or curl Hair can be rolled to sit on base or off base and the wind can be directed to suit the style CONSULTATION

6. Wet-Styling Tools Combs Brushes- boar bristle/teasing/nylon Rollers (short, medium, or long) Clips (duckbills, double-pronged, single-pronged) Pins Clamps

7. Shaping and directing the hair into alternate parallel waves using fingers, comb, waving lotion, and hairpins or clips FINGERWAVING Foundation of hairstyling; evolved Finger dexterity, strength, consistency Wet, Dry comb out, thermal set Made famous by Bette Davis; Had the first “celebrity” hairstylist “Jazz age” loved the fashion but frightened the conservative Short hair was more “acceptable "when softened & feminine Egg whites were often used to give sheen until proper product were developed

8. Makes hair pliable and holds it in place Made of karaya gum( Indian Gum )- Tree from India; thickener/binder Diluted for use on fine hair Concentrated for regular or coarse hair Harmless to hair; no flakes when dry Avoid excessive amounts of FINGERWAVING LOTION

9. HORIZONTAL- parallel to floor VERTICAL- up & down

10. PINCURLS Damp curl held in place by a pin Wet hair- long lasting set because of BOND formation Dry hair- Cool down of iron work Longevity Serve as the basis for patterns, lines, waves, curls & rolls

11. Parts of a Curl Base- Stationary; Immoveable Stem- Between; Gives direction & mobility Circle-Size of circle is width of wave PINCURLS Anchoring Pincurls - Pincurl clips or bobby pins Try NOT to clip both sides Cotton can be used in between prong & scalp

12. No-stem Min Mobility On base Long lasting Half-stem Med Mobility Half base Full-stem Greatest movement Off base PINCURLS- MOBILITY- Amount of movement; determined BY STEM NO STEM HALFSTEM FULL STEM

13. Molded in circular movement for curl Begin at open end of a shaping. PINCURLS- Shaping for placement

14. Open-center curls Smooth/Uniform Closed-center curls Decrease in size PINCURLS

15. Forward movement- Towards face Reverse movement- Away from face Upward movement- Toward top of head Downward movement Clockwise Counterclockwise PINCURLS UPWARD UPWARD& DOWNWARD Opposite directions create a wave

16. Pin Curl Foundations or Bases Rectangular base- Front hairline; upswept Triangular base- Fringe; no splits Arc base- C Shape, Half moon; Carved from shaping; cure of head Square base- Curly hair, not a lot of volume; need to stagger

17. Pin Curl Techniques Ribboning- Thumb & back of comb; Creates tension Waves- Opposite direction

18. Carved/sculptured curls- Sliced from shaping without lifting; Can ribbon Ridge curls- Behind fingerwave Skip waves- Usually on side of head Pin Curl Techniques

19. Creating Volume with Pin Curls Cascade curls- Stand up curls Height; 90 degrees Barrel curls- Large center opening Rectangular stand up; mimics marcel iron

20. Rollers VS Pincurls Speed Increased strength Greater creativity Rollers are a much faster way to set the hair- 1 Roller is equivalent to 2-4 pincurls Hair is wrapped around the roller with tension, which gives a stronger and longer-lasting set. Variety of shapes, widths, and sizes, which broadens the creative possibilities for an

21. Parts of a Roller Curl Base- Where roller is placed; Same length & width of roller; Determines VOLUME Stem- Gives direction & mobility Curl- Size of curl; Wrapped around roller

22. Choosing Roller Size C-shaped curl- 1 turn around Wave- 1 ½ turns around Curls- 2 ½ turns around

23. ROLLER SET/ BASE CONTROL ON BASE Most volume HALF ON BASE Medium volume OFF BASE No/Low volume ON ON HALF OFF OFF HALF OFF OFF 135 90 45 Base- hair at scalp Placement = volume Longer hold then marcel Tool size determines section size Proper tension Proper product based on texture & desired end result Great foundation for upstyling

24. Roller Placement On base- Higher than 90 Half base- 90 Off base- Below 45 Indentation Opposite directions meet Recession

25. Rollers Hot rollers: used on dry hair only; heated electrically or by steam, thermal protectant Velcro™ rollers: used on dry hair only for 5 to 10 minutes (not allowed in some states); wet hair can snag

26. Back-Combing Technique Teasing, Matting, Ratting, French Lacing Section hair. Insert comb. Press comb to scalp. Create cushion base. Repeat for volume. Smooth hair- 45 degree angle; lightly over surface

27. Back-Brushing Technique Ruffling Hold strand. Place brush. Roll brush. Turn brush. Blend hair. Complete styling.

28. REVIEW What is the process of shaping hair into alternate parallel waves? What makes fingerwaves more pliable? What are the 3 parts of a curl? What is the mobility of a curl? What is the difference between Open center curls and Closed? Which base is good for the front hairline? Why do need to ribbon the hair? How many times does the hair need to wrap around a roller for a full curl? What is an indentation? What are some other terms for backcombing?

29. Keeps curly hair smooth and straight while retaining a beautiful shape. Hair is wrapped around the head to give it a smooth, rounded contour, similar to that attained with rollers Wet hair responds better when relaxed Short hair is “Molding” When wrapping hair, very little volume is attained because the hair at the scalp is not lifted Height can be achieved by placing large rollers directly at the crown, with the remainder of the hair Hair Wrapping

30. Thermal Styling The process of drying and styling damp hair in one operation Today’s women desire styles that require less time and effort to maintain. What we think we look like VS What we actually look like

31. Blow-Dry Styling Tools Blow-dryer Handle Slotted nozzle Small fan Heating element Speed/heat controls Diffuser

32. Combs, Picks, Clips Length and spacing of the teeth vary from one comb to another Teeth that are close remove definition from the curl and create a smooth surface Widely spaced teeth shape larger sections of hair for a more textured surface Combs with a pick at one end lift the hair away from the head.

33. Brushes Classic styling brush- Anti static, little volume, nylon Paddle brush- Long hair, cushion release, vertical brushing Grooming brush- Boar/Nylon; distribute oil; polish Vent brush- Speeds drying; add lift Round brush- Natural/ Mixed; sizes Teasing brush

34. Styling Products Foam or mousse Gels Liquid gels or texturizers Molding Straightening gels Volumizers Pomade or wax Silicone shiners Hair spray or finishing spray

35. Blow-Dry Cautions Don’t hold dryer in one place too long. Direct air flow. Direct hot air away from scalp. Move in back-and-forth motion. Partially dry before style blow-drying.

36. Blow-Dry Procedures Blow-drying short, layered, curly hair Diffusing long, curly hair Blow-drying straight or wavy hair for volume Blow-drying blunt or long-layered hair into straight style

37. Thermal Hairstyling Methods of waving and curling straight or pressed dry hair using thermal irons and special manipulative techniques Temperature of Iron depends on TEXTURE

38. Thermal Irons Four parts Rod handle Shell handle Barrel or rod Shell

39. Flat Irons Range in size from 1/2 inch to 3 inches across Used to create smooth, straight styles Edge closest to Stylist if the INNER EDGE

40. Testing Thermal Irons Heat iron. Clamp heated iron over tissue. Note if paper scorches. Let cool as needed.

41. Care of Thermal Irons Wash with soap and water. Use fine sandpaper or steel wool. Baking soda & Hydrogen Peroxide; soft sponge Relaxer Oil joint. Wrapping cords

42. Thermal Iron Comb Hard rubber, Carbon Size Holding comb

43. Practice with Cold Irons Grasp handles with dominant hand. Place three middle fingers on back of lower handle, with little finger in front and thumb in front of upper handle.

44. Other Types of Curls End curls

45. Volume-base thermal curls Max lift Section off base. Hold strand at 135-degree angle. Slide iron over strand. Wrap strand over rod with medium tension. Maintain position for 5 seconds. Roll curl and place on base. Other Types of Curls

46. Full-base thermal curls Section off base. Hold strand at 125-degree angle. Slide iron over strand. Wrap strand with medium tension. Maintain position for 5 seconds. Roll curl and place firmly on base . Strong curl Directly in center of base Other Types of Curls

47. Half-base thermal curls Moderate lift Half base Section off base. Hold hair at 90-degree angle. Slide iron over hair strand. Wrap strand over rod with medium tension. Maintain position for 5 seconds. Roll curl and place it half on base. Other Types of Curls

48. Other Types of Curls Off-base thermal curls Low volume Section off base. Hold hair at 70-degree angle. Slide iron over strand. Wrap strand over rod with medium tension. Maintain position for 5 seconds. Roll curl and place off base.

49. Safety Measures Get instructions for use of irons. Keep irons clean. Do not overheat. Test temperature. Handle carefully. Place hot irons in safe place to cool. Don’t place handles too close to heater.

50. Properly balance irons in heater. Use hard rubber or nonflammable combs. Do not use metal combs. Place comb between scalp and iron. Curl only clean, dry hair. Avoid fishhooks. Use gentle setting on chemically-treated hair air . Safety Measures

51. REVIEW What is the process of drying and styling damp hair in 1 process? What are some examples of brushes? What are some examples of products? What should you base the temperature of your iron on? What kind of comb should you use? What is thermal hairstyling? What are some guidelines for Thermal safety? What sizes do flat irons come in? What are some types of base placement for the marcel?

52. Thermal Hair Straightening- Hair Pressing Soft press- Removes 50-60%; one side Medium press- Removes 60-75%; 1 time each side Hard press - Removes all curl; twice to each side

53. Analysis of Hair and Scalp Wave pattern of hair Length of hair Texture of hair Feel of hair- wiry, soft Elasticity of hair Shade of hair- Lightener? Condition of hair Condition of scalp- Abrasions?

54. Texture and Feel of Hair Coarse, overly curly Medium Fine Wiry- less sebum

55. Conditioning Treatments Cosmetic preparations Thorough brushing Scalp massage- make scalp more flexible

56. Pressing Combs Construction Handles- Wood; not absorb heat Teeth- More space = less straight Tempering the comb Heat comb. Remove comb. Coat in oil/petroleum Cool and rinse to remove excess oil Burns off any polish from manufacturer- better heat distribution

57. Heating the comb- gas, electric Testing the temperature Attachment Cleaning the comb Pressing Combs

58. Cleaning the comb Wipe clean of loose hair, grease, and debris. Remove carbon with emery board, steel wool, or fine sandpaper. Immerse in hot baking-soda solution for one hour. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Pressing Combs

59. Pressing Oil Benefits Makes hair softer Prepares hair for pressing Prevents hair from burning Helps prevent breakage Conditions hair after pressing Adds sheen Helps retain press

60. What to Avoid When Pressing Excessive heat or pressure on hair and scalp Too much pressing oil on hair (can attract dirt) Perfumed pressing oil near scalp Too-frequent hair pressing (can weaken hair) Double Press- Hard Press- Not always needed

61. Keep comb clean and carbon free. Avoid overheating pressing comb. Test comb temperature. Adjust temperature. Touch up presses- Humidity Use comb carefully to avoid burning skin. Prevent smoking/burning of hair. Use moderately warm comb at temples and nape. Grey hair can discolor from heat Wiry hair can withstand more pressing Flexible scalp requires MORE tension

62. Injuries Immediate physical damage Not immediately evident

63. Special Considerations Pressing fine hair Pressing short fine hair Pressing coarse hair Pressing tinted, lightened, or gray hair

64. REVIEW What is a pressing comb? What are 3 presses you can perform? What do the teeth spacings do? What material are they made out of? What does tempering the comb mean? What are the benefits to pressing oil? What are some safety measures to take with the pressing comb? How do you clean it?

65. Styling Long Hair: Updos Valuable service Weddings Proms Other evening events

66. Client Consultation Determine client desires. For wedding, use magazines, suggest trial run, bring headpiece. Suggest trial run. If bridal, bring headpiece.

67. Styling Long Hair Knot: also called a chignon Twist: elegant, sleek look that can go anywhere Pleat: traditional updo used for weddings and black-tie events (sometimes called a classic French twist)

68. REVIEW GAME