Milady nail enhancements ch 27, 28, 29

Milady Nail wraps, Monomer/polymer, Gels

1. MILADY NAIL ENHANCEMENTS Nail Tips & Wraps. Acrylics. Gels .

2. Nail services have become extremely popular from Manicures to Enhancements Adds extra revenue to your services & salons Understanding the variety of Nail Enhancements will allow you to properly choose the correct option for your guest WHY? THE WHY?

3. WHY? AGENDA AGENDA WEEK 1 TUESDAY - Nail Wrap supplies to resin WEDNESDAY - Fabrics to removal THURSDAY -Acrylic Chemistry to supplies FRIDAY -Mix Ratio to Supplies/storing WEEK 2 TUESDAY -Acrylic maintenance to odorless WEDNESDAY - UV gel Chemistry to types THURSDAY - Supplies to UV/LED FRIDAY- Hard/Soft gel; REVIEW ALL 3 CHAPTERS

4. Learn All You Need to Know About Nail Tips (continues) NAIL TIPS- Plastic, pre-molded nail shaped from ABS For added strength & or length; Used with an OVERLAY ACRYLONITRILE BUTADIENE STYRENE : Plastic, high heat resistant, chemical resistant(acids), low cost, NOT biodegradable, durable, shiny

5. Learn All You Need to Know About Nail Tips (continued) NAIL TIPS SUPPLIES TUBE BRUSH DROP APPLICATOR ABRASIVES BUFFER BLOCK DEHYRDRATORS TIP CUTTER

6. Application of Nail Tips When using a tip with a well, it is important to rock the tip on in order to not get any air bubbles in the adhesive. The tip should be placed at a 45-degree angle against the natural free edge and rocked on until the nail is flush against the natural nail and the position stop is against the edge of the natural free edge. NAIL TIPS Many nail tips have a depression called a WELL Serves as the point of contact with the nail plate Important to choose proper well for YOUR GUESTS NAIL SHAPE Too curved, creates air bubble, lifts or pushes sides out Too flat will lift off the natural curve, painful when glued

7. Application of Nail Tips NAIL TIPS Tips should never cover more than half the natural nail plate Cover from side wall to side wall When using a tip with a well, Rock tip on in order to reduce air bubbles in adhesive Tip is placed at a 45 degree angle against free edge and rocked on until Position Stop is against free edge of natural nail

8. Application of Nail Tips NAIL TIPS - Adhesive Adhesive = professional term Bonding agent to secure nail tip to natural nail Comes in a Tube, Brush on or a Drop Applicator Thick adhesive is a gel based and requires more drying time Thinner viscosity dries around 5 seconds When opening nail adhesive , point away from your Guests face

9. Application of Nail Tips NAIL TIPS Use a larger Nail tip & file to tailor to your guest nail, VS using a too small tip Trim and or Bevel before applying Pre-beveled tips = less blending time STOP, ROCK & HOLD METHOD- Rock the tip on, release air pockets, hold 5-10 seconds Contact area will need to be reduced with a fine to medium abrasive ( blending ) NO VISIBLE line between tip and nail 45 degrees

10. Explore the Uses of Nail Wraps NAIL WRAPS Nail Wrap is any method of securing a layer of fabric or paper on and around the nail tip Used as an OVER LAY Can strengthen natural nail or create nail extensions Secured on to the nail with Nail Wrap Resin 4 Main types of Fabric SILK LINEN FIBERGLASS PAPER Strengthen natural nail Overlay on ti p Extension

11. Supplies Nail dehydrator Tweezers- Keep Natural Oils OFF FABRIC; PREVENTS ADHESION Tip cutters Tip adhesive Nail tips Block buffer Fabric Abrasive file Fabric scissors Plastic sheet- Keep Fabric on Lint-free wipes- Remove any debris before drying NAIL WRAP SUPPLIES Building resin- Brush, Gel, Drop Activator- Spray, Brush, Gel

12. Explore the Uses of Nail Wraps NAIL WRAP- Application Before applying Tips, Wraps or any Enhancement: Prepare Natural Nail by removing shine with a fine abrasive buffer -240 GRIT – FLAT ACROSS THE NAIL Cleanse nail and apply Dehydrator A rough service allows better product adhesion; Grooves in nail plate allow product to “sink in” No oil present on surface; Residue creates a barrier product sticks to instead of adhering to nail ALWAYS END NAIL SERVICES WITH CUTICLE OIL!!!! Remove shine & any dead nail/skin cells

13. Explore the Uses of Nail Wraps NAIL WRAP- Application Nail Wrap Resin is used to coat & secure fabric to natural nail & nail tip CYANOACRYLATE is a specialized acrylic monomer that adheres and POLYMERIZES in seconds Moisture sensitive: IMPORTANT that product stays closed & nail is DRY Moisture helps activate the curing process Natural nail was enough NATURAL MOISTURE ACTIVATOR/ACCELORATOR is a catalyst that speeds up hardening Dissipates in 2 min Too much can cause a heat reaction burning the nail plate up to 170 degrees!!!! FOLLOW MANUFACTURERS DIRECTIONS!

14. WHY? REVIEW- TUESDAY What are Nail Tips made from? What are some characteristics of it? Professional term for nail glue? Ways it is packaged? What removes moisture from the nail plate? Why do you NEED to use it? Why are toe nail clippers not recommended to use? What is the depression called in a nail tip? What are the 3 types of well? Why is it important to have different kinds? What is the position stop? What angle is the tip held? What are the 3 ways to use a Nail wrap? What is Cyanoacrylate? The activator is also known as a ? Why do you need to use?

15. Explore the Uses of Nail Wraps NAIL WRAP- Fabrics Silk, Linen, Fiberglass ( most popular ), Paper Cut to cover surface of nail Packaged as swatches, on a roll or pre-cut Nail Wraps are natural & thin in appearance; great for a sensitive guest or guests with fragile nails trying to grow them out especially after removal of acrylics Less likely to cause nail infections Lift easily if exposed to water regularly ROLL SWATCH SHEETS PRE CUT STRIPS PRE CUT

16. Explore the Uses of Nail Wraps NAIL WRAP- Fabrics SILK Thin natural material with a light weave Silk is the go to for guests who want their nails- Just stronger Becomes transparent when resin is applied Light weight & smooth Moldable to shape Comparable to gel polish but less damaging Silk & Fiberglass mix

17. Explore the Uses of Nail Wraps NAIL WRAP- Fabrics Linen Strongest BUT heaviest Closely woven heavy material “Thick as a bandage” Adhesives do not penetrate as well Opaque finish- will need a nail color after Perfect for the guest who cant or wont wear a Nail Tip Mix Silk & Linen for a Natural French manicure Not common: “old school “

18. Explore the Uses of Nail Wraps NAIL WRAP- Fabrics Fiberglass Thin synthetic mesh with a loose weave Easy to use & resin penetrates easily- improving adhesion Very strong BUT can see mesh if you look closely after completed Thinner than acrylic Moldable to shape Better option for the guest that wants length

19. Explore the Uses of Nail Wraps NAIL WRAP- Fabrics Paper Temporary nail wraps made from thin paper Does not have the strength & durability NEEDS RESIN ACCELERATOR “End Paper” material Late 1800s: tea bags, coffee filters & cigarette papers were used to strengthen nails Not popular today Paper nails today: Thin wax paper, tissue paper, newspaper etc sealed to nail ( usually a pattern paper )

20. Nail Wrap Maintenance, Repair, and Removal Maintenance – term used for when the enhancement needs to be serviced after two or more weeks from the initial application Uses To fill /BACK FILL Same steps & products as original set- only applied to new growth To structurally correct the nail- rebalance, “fix” imbalances in natural nail plate or natural weak areas NAIL WRAP- Maintenance Cut to fit New Growth

21. Fabric Wrap Repair Stress strip – fabric cut to 1/8 inch in length and applied to weak point Repair patch – piece of fabric cut to completely cover a crack or break in the nail NAIL WRAP- Maintenance

22. Fabric Wrap Removal Wraps must be removed carefully to avoid damage to the nail plate. Enhancement is immersed in acetone: 2-3 min increments Wait for nail wrap to melt away and gently slide softened wrap off Allow nail “ breathe” Take about 4-6 months for natural nail to return to original state Keep cuticles, hands & nails moisturized afterwards Apply strengthener Nails will become “harder” after about a week once moisture evaporates NAIL WRAP- Removal

23. WHY? REVIEW- WEDNESDAY How are nail fabrics packaged? 1 Pro to fabric and 1 Con to fabric? Which fabric becomes clear when resin is applied? Which fabric is strongest but the heaviest? Which fabric is strong but you can easily see it? What was used to make paper nails in the 1800s? How many weeks in-between services should you wait for a back fill/rebalance? What is a stress strip? How do you remove wraps?

24. Chapter 28 Monomer Liquid & Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements

25. Introduction Monomer & Polymer- ACRYLIC Your text here These enhancements are known as SCULPTURED NAILS Created by combining a liquid with a powder Considered a lucrative service Can be applied in 4 ways: Protective overlay Over a nail tip Nail extension Nail art

26. Convey the Chemistry of Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements Part of the Methacrylate family Monomer means “one unit” (unit being a molecule) Polymer means “many units” (many molecules) When mixed together, they form a BEAD which then forms long, chain-like structures that create nail enhancements which can be applied over the natural nail, a tip, a form, or can be used to sculpt nail art. (continues) Monomer & Polymer- ACRYLIC Chemistry Make up:

27. Convey the Chemistry of Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements (continues) Monomer & Polymer- ACRYLIC Chemistry Make up: Liquid MONOMER mixed with powder POLYMER Attract & Connect called POLYMERIZATION Numerous chains connect by CROSS LINKS These cross links form Grid/Net like structure creating the hardened acrylic

28. EMA – ethyl methacrylate monomer, which is the industry standard Odorless – has a lower odor than the traditional monomer MMA – methyl methacrylate monomer, which is not recommended for use on nails and is not legal according to the state board rules in some states Convey the Chemistry of Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements (continued) (continues) Monomer & Polymer- LIQUID The Industry standards are ETHYL METHACRYLATE MONOMER liquid ( EMA ) and ODORLESS MONOMER liquid

29. EMA- Ethyl Methacrylate Monomer (continues) Monomer & Polymer- LIQUID 70-90% EMA; remaining is MMA Larger molecules so it does NOT penetrate the nail plate Flexib le Created in late 90s to replace MMA No allergic reactions No burning Matches to your natural nails surface Nail does NOT need to be roughed up with a drill Easily removed in acetone Less odor Less health hazards when breathing it in

30. MMA- Methyl Methacrylate (continues) Monomer & Polymer- LIQUID Not regulated by FDA Not legal is most states Small molecules that penetrate nail plate and skin pores Creates a ridged & hard nail Same ingredient in Dental work ( crowns ) Same ingredient as plexiglass an d bone cement Resistant to solvents; needs to be pried off or filed off with electric file Cheap Has a pungent almost fruit odor that causes dizziness Itchy and burning during or after Aggressively filing your nail : MMA does not stick well to plate like EMA Can turn natural nails yellow Does cure quicker & is cheaper Produces a lot of dust When in blood stream, it is METHANOL- linked to miscarriages

31. Polymer powder is made up of POLYMERIZATION, also known as curing or hardening, a chemical reaction that creates polymers. CHAIN REACTION is creating polymers and is known as POLYMERIZATION REACTION INTIATORS in Powder that are activated by a CATALYST in liquid that permanently links molecules together INTIATOR is Benzol Peroxide ( BPO ) CATALYST speeds up reaction so nail can cure/harden faster Monomer & Polymer- POWDER

32. CATALYST in Liquid INITIATOR in Powder Initiator makes the MONOMER move around Active Monomer attaches to Polymer Creates chain Catalyst in Monomer is used to speed up that process so hardening/curing can happen quickly Monomer & Polymer- ACRYLIC Chemistry Make up:

33. Specify the Supplies Required for Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements Monomer liquid Polymer powder Nail dehydrator Nail primer (continues) Abrasives Nail forms Nail tips Dappen dish Monomer liquid and polymer powder application brush Safety eyewear Dust masks Protective gloves Monomer & Polymer- SUPPLIES

34. WHY? REVIEW- THURSDAY Acrylic is also known as what type of nail? What are the 4 ways to apply Acrylic? Mono means? Poly means? Which one is the liquid? The attraction between Monomer & Polymer creates what action? What is the industry standard of Monomer liquid? Why is EMA better than MMA? What is in Polymer Powder that gets activated by the Catalyst in the Liquid? What is that ingredient?

35. Specify the Supplies Required for Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements The amount of Monomer liquid to Polymer powder creates a bead Your MIX RATIO determines the texture of your bead ALWAYS FOLLOW MANUFACTURER DIRECTIONS! The BPO ( INTIATOR ) amount is designed to fit ratio in liquid Wrong ratio can cause nail to not cure properly, be brittle or discolored (continues) Monomer & Polymer- SUPPLIES WET- 2 Monomer to 1 Polymer DRY- 1 to 1 ratio MEDIUM- 1 ½ Monomer to 1 Polymer

36. Specify the Supplies Required for Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements POLYMER POWDER: Most common colors are White, Clear, Natural, Pink but there is a large variety of colors to choose from (continues) Monomer & Polymer- SUPPLIES NAIL DEHYDRATOR: Removes all moisture and or oil on nail plate, prevents lifting

37. Specify the Supplies Required for Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements NAIL PRIMER: Used on natural nail before application to help in adhesion There are 2 kinds: ACID BASED & NON ACID/ACID FREE Never apply enhancement product over WET PRIMER, causes discoloration Apply only to nail, avoid excessive use: irritate the skin, make nail brittle Never use Primer with debris floating in it (continues) Monomer & Polymer- SUPPLIES ACID BASED Apply with dotting towards center of nail Stronger Covalent bond Primer will spread evenly Is corrosive to skin NON ACID BASED Cover nail with 3 brush strokes Weaker Hydrogen bond Don’t cut through dirt & oil as well Does not effect skin

38. Specify the Supplies Required for Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements ABRASIVES: Nail files or buffers. The grit refers to how many grits of sand per square inch. The lower the number the rougher the abrasive: Medium is used most for shaping; Fine is used for refining/filing (continues) Monomer & Polymer- SUPPLIES NAIL FORMS: Placed under free edge & used as a guide to extend nail enhancement beyond fingertip COARSE MEDIUM-FINE SHINE/ 3 SIDES 400/1,000/4,000 Single use Multi use

39. Learn All You Need to Know About Nail Tips (continues) NAIL TIPS- Plastic, pre-molded nail shaped from ABS For added strength & or length; Used with an OVERLAY ACRYLONITRILE BUTADIENE STYRENE : Plastic, high heat resistant, chemical resistant(acids), low cost, NOT biodegradable, durable, shiny

40. Specify the Supplies Required for Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements DAPPEN DISH: Monomer liquid & Polymer powder are poured into these containers Small containers that help stop evaporation; always keep closed when not in use Empty after EACH GUEST Dispose of excess by mixing with powder or soaking up in paper towel (continues) Monomer & Polymer- SUPPLIES NAIL BRUSHES: Natural bristle- Kolinsky, Sable or blend of both Oval, Round or Square ( # 8 OVAL IS MOST COMMON ) Synthetic cheap brushes does not pick up enough liquid or release bead Middle of brush to shape free edge ( better control ) Odor less- flat brush because it requires less liquid

41. Specify the Supplies Required for Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements SAFETY EYEWEAR: Safety goggles/glasses; protects eyes from debris & splashes Lenses are cleat polycarbonate , are thinner and lighter than regular plastic 10 times more impact resistant than plastic or glass lenses Can add readers to (continues) Monomer & Polymer- SUPPLIES DUST MASKS: Worn over nose/mouth to prevent inhalation Does not protect against VAPOR

42. Specify the Supplies Required for Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements PROTECTIVE GLOVES: Disposable or Multi-use Nitrile is recommended because of high chemical resistance and protection against bacteria/virus Vinyl & latex do not hold up against nail products; tear easily (continues) Monomer & Polymer- SUPPLIES STORING AND DISPOSING Store in separate covered containers Cool, dark area Dispose according to local rules/regulations Soak up excess liquid with paper towel Place in bag & in a metal trash bin Clean brushes properly DO NOT POUR DOWN THE DRAIN

43. WHY? REVIEW- FRIDAY What are the 3 mix ratios? What does the nail dehydrator do? What are the 2 types of Primer? Why do you need to use a Primer? The grit on an abrasive refers to what? What are nail forms? Nail tips are made from what type of plastic? How do you properly dispose of unused product?

44. Maintenance, Crack Repair, and Removal Monomer & Polymer- Steps Clean nails File Cuticle work 180 GRIT nail plate Clean powder & debris Primer & Dehydrator

45. Maintenance, Crack Repair, and Removal Monomer & Polymer- Steps Gently roll powder Pour liquid in dappen dish Absorb liquid Dip in powder Form bead Wipe brush after each application Soak up excess

46. Maintenance, Crack Repair, and Removal Monomer & Polymer- Steps Same length; 180 GRIT Side wall file 1 direction Continue Side wall Follow curve 280 GRIT Whole plate Buff/shine

47. Maintenance, Crack Repair, and Removal Apply bead in 3 zones for an easy natural blend Remember to wipe brush before creating new bead Allow nail to harden before filing or removing form Test nail by gently tapping with back of brush; light clicking sound NOT A HOLLOW SOUND Monomer & Polymer- Maintenance

48. Maintenance, Crack Repair, and Removal Maintenance helps prevent lifting or cracking. Proper maintenance must be performed every 2- 3 weeks. Treat area to be fixed or cured the same steps as original set Monomer & Polymer- Maintenance

49. Properly Structured Nail Enhancements Apex- Arch; Most strength Stress area- Grows beyond finger tip Smile line- Pink & white meet in French manicure Sidewall Nail extension- underside- Thin is most comfortable; same on each nail Thickness – Consistent; not too thick( heavy) Natural looking nail should be thin at sidewalls & free edge C-curve- matches natural curve of nail; 35% is average Monomer & Polymer-Structure

50. Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancement Removal Nippers can damage nail plate Soak the enhancements off of the nail using acetone or the manufacturer’s suggested removal solution. May take up to 20-30 min Check every 2-3 min Can warm up acetone by placing bowl on top of a warm bowl of water Remove the enhancement, and complete the service. Plate will appear thinner & flexibility will be high- within 24 hours nail will regain rigidness Monomer & Polymer- Removal

51. Describe Odorless Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Products Not the same chemistry: uses Methoxyethoxy ethyl methacrylate Consists of larger molecules & evaporates more slowly The slower evaporation allows more oxygen to react creating a tacky INHIBITION LAYER that needs to be removed after hardening Little to no odor since there is no EMA/MMA Dry mix ratio, takes longer to cure Use a flat brush; too wet causes skin irritation ODOR LESS MONOMER & POLYMER

52. Create Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Art 3D NAIL ART & INLAID DESIGNS

53. WHY? REVIEW- TUESDAY How many zones is the nail bed split into when applying your bead? How do you test if you nail has correctly hardened? What is the highest point on the nail? What is the average % or C curve? How long do you soak nails in acetone for removal? Odorless Acrylic creates a tacky layer called the? What is the mixing ratio for Odorless? What is the difference between 3D and Inlaid designs?

54. Chapter 29 Light Cured Gels

55. Light cured gel Also known as UV and LED gel A type of nail enhancement product that hardens when exposed to a UV or LED light source Light cured gel is an increasingly popular method for nail enhancement services Became well known around the early 2000’s Great alternative to Acrylics & Wraps Least damaging nail enhancement Low to no odor Introduction Light Cured Gels

56. Comprehend the Chemistry of Light Cured Gels Light cured gels rely on ingredients similar to Monomer & Polymer family; SUBCATEGORY- ACRYLATES Urethane- Means a synthetic coating or seal. To protect from heat and moisture Acrylate- In all nail enhancements & polishes; Adhesive based to sculpt & adhere to nail Urethane Acrylate- Original; cures faster; can cause burning Urethane Methacrylate- Slower cure ; better for sensitive skin High abrasion resistance & DURABLE 5-500 molecules VS millions of molecules in Monomer Liquid Larger molecules; Less penetration; Less odor Light Cured Gels ACRYLIC GEL

57. Comprehend the Chemistry of Light Cured Gels Oligomer – a short chain of monomer liquids that is often thick, sticky, and gel-like and that is not long enough to be considered a polymer. Oligomer : Holds & generates heat Main ingredient; gives shine & rigidness A chemical within the product, called a photoinitiator initiates the polymerization reaction. Light Cured Gels

58. Comprehend the Chemistry of Light Cured Gels PHOTOINITIATOR is a chemical that initiates the POLYMERIZATION REACTION Absorb light & convert into energy Resin, photo initiator & proper curing bulb cause gel to cure/harden Light source: UV , LED Light source activates photo initiator; Molecules move around freely- photo initiator Light Cured Gels OLIGOMER MONOMERS PHOTO INITIATOR

59. Describe Light Cured Gels The different light cured gels Thin- viscosity gels Medium-viscosity gels Thick-viscosity gels Building or sculpting gels. The one-color method – one color of gel is applied over the entire surface of the nail The two-color method – two colors of resin are used to overlay the nail Light Cured Gels

60. Types of Light Cured Gels Bonding gels- Increase adhesion to natural nail plate; may have slight odor Building gels- Thick; build an arch or curve; fiberglass pieces; good for cracks/breaks; SCULPTING GEL Self-leveling gels- Thin; settle & level themselves; used over an overlay or ontop of a sculpted building gel Pigmented ge ls- Building or self leveling; has color pigment Gel polish- thin, pigmented; pot or bottle; in place of lacquer Glossing gel- Sealing gel; shine; like a top coat Light Cured Gels- TYPES

61. Types of Light Cured Gels 2 MAIN TYPES TRADTIONAL: Creates a tacky, sticky layer called the INHIBITION LAYER; after curing INHIBITION LAYER- Oxygen didn’t allow curing of top layer; sticky cause Oligomers are sticky/gel like & Monomers didn’t not adhere; Can be a normal process OR the light bulb is wrong/old Needs to be removed with alcohol on a lint free wipe TACK FREE: Will discolor polish when curing; Does not last as long as traditional gel; mostly seen a top coat Light Cured Gels- TYPES

62. Types of Light Cured Gels Light Cured Gels- TYPES OPACITY- amount of colored pigment concentration in gel

63. WHY? REVIEW- WEDNESDAY Gel nails are also called what? What subcategory are they apart of? What are the 2 types of URETHANE? Which is better for sensitive skin? What is the chain of monomers that is thick, sticky and gel like? What is a photoinitator ? and what does it create? What does Viscosity mean? Which gel settles itself? Which gel is like a top coat or a seal? What does the Traditional gel create that needs to be removed after hardening? What does opacity mean?

64. Light Cured Gels- SUPPLIES Light curing gel lamps Application brushes- small is best Primer/bonding gel Light cured gel Nail forms/ CLEAR

65. Nail tips Light Cured Gels- SUPPLIES Nail Adhesive Nail Dehydrator Abrasives Cleansing Solution Lint Free Wipes

66. Shelf life between 12-36 months ( depends on how well you take care of them) Companies will print on the container the standard shelf life Be sure that lids are on tight and containers are upright to avoid leakage. Gels should be stored in a dark, cool place to prolong the life of the product. Away from natural sunlight/UV light. ( Will eventually cause polish to cure) If polish has sat for a while, roll polish for better consistent application of ingredients Use a gel polish thinner if needed Light Cured Gels- STORING

67. How easy would your guest like the polish removed? How long does your guest want it to last? Length and hardness : Not as thick as other nail enhancements. Resembles the natural nail plate thickness; For an extended length, tips can be added as an enhancement. Nail Health : Gel nail sets are easier to apply and less abrasive on your nail bed. Nail plate does not need to be aggressively filed prior to application Cost and maintenance : Can change gel polish weekly; Costs less than other nail enhancements Endurance : Gel nails are less harsh on the cuticles and nail bed; last 2-3.5 weeks on the nails while acrylic nails last a month or longer before they need refills. Light Cured Gels- When to Use

68. Flat fingernails – thicker building gel Arched or curved fingernails – self-leveling gel Frequent breaks – gel with fiberglass Light Cured Gels- Choosing Proper Material

69. If burning occurs- Exothermic Reaction- Too much product or too strong of a bulb/lamp UV bulb emits UV radiation to cure gel nail enhancements Bulbs loose radiation after a few months: Change 2-3 times a year UV lamp is the light unit/device – controls bulbs to cure Lamp number is distance from top-bottom-side to side; determines cure time Comes in 4, 6, 7, 8 9 watt 9 is most common Wattage measures how much electricity the bulb consumes 36 watt unit uses 4- 9 watt bulbs Courtesy of Light Elegance Nail Products Light Cured Gels- Lamps & Bulbs

70. LED- Light Emitting Diode Cure LED gel products only More narrow Wavelength; Higher concentration Cures faster- 15 – 20 sec Less energy/ eco friendly Bulbs last a life time Need an LED Photo Initiator Costly investment No exposure to UV on skin Can be used just as a BASE COAT prior to color application Courtesy of Light Elegance Nail Products UV Cures ALL types of gel polish Emits broad UV wavelengths Cures around 2 min Uses more energy Bulbs need to be replaces periodically More affordable lamp & products

71. Specify the Advantages of Light Cured Gel Polish Cure rather than dry Do not imprint or smudge while lacquer is drying Do not thicken over time Last longer in the bottle Can be a lucrative service

72. Every two weeks Use 180-grit abrasive file. Remove oils for better adhesion with alcohol or recommended cleaner File with a lighter touch than on ML/PP- Softer surface Light Cured Gels- Maintain & Remove

73. WHY? REVIEW- THURSDAY What is the shelf life of gel? Where should it be stored and why? When do you choose gel over other enhancements? A flat finger nail needs what type of gel? Which gel will provide thickness but levels itself? If a guest has frequent breaks what should their gel have to increase durability? How many times a year shiykd you change your bulbs? What is the most common watt? What does watt measure? Pro to UV/ Pro to LED Why is it important to know the difference between the two? How often should you maintain?

74. Hard (traditional) UV and LED gels cannot be removed with acetone must be filed off- CLEAN SURAFE WITH NYLON BRUSH good for a BASE or building extension Thicker consistency Tight compact molecular structure where Acetone can not penetrate More costly Soft UV and LED gels removed by soaking in acetone included gel polish in-between polish & hard gel consistency ( medium ) 5-15 min soak; check every 2-3 min scrap with wooden stick Costs less Elongated molecular structure- creates spaces where acetone can penetrate Light Cured Gels- Maintain & Remove

75. WHY? REVIEW EVERYTHING!!!