Mughal costume, textile and jewellery

This presentation highlights the glorious Mughal Era(1526-1748) costume,textile, ornament and it's impact on today's fashion.Detail description about of men's clothing ,women's clothings with accessories that affected the fashion world with it's richness and intricacy.

2. Empire
MUGHAL
Unfolding fashion of Mugal Empire
Costume: Textile: Jewellery
MUGHAL EMPIRE

3. Men’s clothing
Mughal clothing refers to clothing developed by the
Mughals in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries throughout
the extent of their empire in the Indian subcontinent.

It was characterized by luxurious styles and was
made with muslin, silk, velvet and brocade.Elaborate
patterns including dots, checks, and waves were used
with colors from various dyes including cochineal,
sulfate of iron, sulfate of copper and sulfate of anti-
mony
Characterstics
MUGHAL EMPIRE
Fig 01:Typical Mugal men clothingJama,Pajama,Patka,turban
Fig 02: Portrait of Prince Khurram (Shah Jahan), Mughal period

4. MUGHAL EMPIRE
Men’s clothing
The Mughals (a mix of Turkish and Persian influences) took shape
during the reign of Akbar and Jahangir.
Mughal costume for men consisted of the
1) jama, a garment that was fitted till the waist and worn cross-
wise and fastened at the side with a lower skirt like portion that
fell below the knees 2) the tight paijamas for the legs
3) the patka (sash) which here is secured with a jewelled belt
4) the chadar aka shawl
5) the turban. The jama and chador were usually fine muslin,
fine enough to see underlying jewellery.
Other clothing types included: “peshwaz” style robes and
“yalek” robes
Costume details
Fig 04:The multiple side ties of jama or tunic and flat heeled with a pointed front end and without a backstrap
Fig 03:Pagri styles - "Chau-goshia", in four segments, the dome shaped qubbedar, kashiti, dupalli, embroidered nukka dar, and embroidered and velvet mandi

5. Fig04: This opulent form of embroidery in one in which metal threads, mostly gold and silver, were used to create extensive motifs. The trend is traced back to the Mughal period
Fig 07:Achkan and Angrakhas are used to add a sense of fun and tanginess to the usual kurta.
Men’s clothing
The Mughal inspiration could be seen working into modern
ensembles.
The rich colour ranges from pastel pink, jade, mauve to
intoxicating champagne, rich gold, bright red, sophisti-
cate maroon, electric blue, sunny saffron and ended with
heavy jewelled looks, which at times become so intense
that the embellishments almost replace the need for jewel-
lery around the necks .Detailing for the collection revolved
around stitched-in pleats and belted saris or kurtas along
with dhoti or lungi drapes for pants and skirts
Todays
Mughal
CONTEMPORARY

6. Fig09: Mughal kundan necklace
Fig 08:Persian blue meenakari neck
-
lace in floral motif
Women were known to have as many as 8 complete
sets of jewelry. Popular ornaments included 2 inch
wide armlets worn above the elbows, bracelets or
pearls at the wrist stacked high enough to impede
access to the pulse, lots of rings (with the mirror
ring worn on the right thumb customary for nearly
all the inhabitants of the Zenana), strings of pearls
(as many as 15 strings at a time), metal bands or
strings of pearls at the bottom of their legs, and
ornaments hanging in the middle of the head in the
shape of star, sun, moon, or a flower
Women’s fashion
Women also adorned a variety of head ornaments such as
Binduli, Kotbiladar, Sekra, Siphul, Tikka and Jhumar
MughalJEWELLERY
Fig12:Head ornaments such as Binduli, Kotbiladar, Sekra, Siphul, Tikka and JhumarFig11:Mor-Bhanwar, Bali, Jhumkas, Kanphool and

Pipal patra or papal patti are earrings from the period.
Fig11:Hand ornament

7. They wore long, loose jama like
ribs, which had full sleeves and opened at the
front. Underneath, an ankle length vest was
worn and the ensemble was completed with a
veil which covered the hair and most of the
face .During the cold season, qabas (coat)
made of Kashmir shawl cloth was worn as
overcoats .Outside the harem they were
usually clothed in the burqa ,which covered
the body from head to feet leaving only a slit
around the eyes
MUGHAL EMPIRE
Characterstics
Women’s costume
The clothes worn by Muslim women during the Mughal rule
were not much different to the men.
Fig13: Idealized Portrait of the Mughal Em
-
press Nur Jahan
Fig14: The garments of Mughal ladies were made of the finest muslins, silks, velvets and brocades.

8. CONTEMPORARY

Todays
Mughal
Women’s clothing
The Mughal inspiration could be seen working into modern
ensembles.
Figure15 :Model wearing anarkali during a fashion show
Fig16 :The paasa, or the jhoomar paasa, is a tradi
-
tional piece of jewellery worn on the head .
the anarkali as a garment was identified as a long flowy
kurta that was fitted around the bust. The fitting around
the empire line and subsequent flare in the garment was
revived in the 1960s.
The paasa is defined by its pearled strings that carry a
pendant-like structure. Usually, it is worn on the left side
of the head and is tucked into the hair in a way that it cov-
ers the temple.

9. The shoes seem to correspond to the salimshahi, a type of shoe introduced by Jahangir aka Prince Salim, flat
heeled with a pointed front end (often curved) and without a backstrap (perhaps a precursor of the modern
mojri).
JEWELLERY Mughal
Men’s fashion
Ornaments are worn not only for the purpose of attract-
ing the attention of others around but also as a distinctive
mark of status, rank and dignity.
The most important accessory for an Indian man
was his turban, which proclaimed his status, reli-
gion, caste and region of origin. To submit a turban
to anybody was a sign of total subjugation and the
removal of a turban was the most humiliating pun-
ishment that could be inflicted on any man.
Fig:The ornaments, footwear, head-wear
and of Mughal period.
Fig:Jewellery for decoraticng
turban

10. Pai-Jama: This is a compound of two Persian
words “pai” meaning legs or feet and “jama”
meaning cover. Drawstring pai-jamas have been
worn in Persia since very ancient times. From
about 1530 onwards, several types of pai-jama
were worn in India.
Churidar: Cut on the bias, much longer than the
leg, so that folds fall at the ankle, worn by men
and women.
Shalwar: A triangularly cut pai-jama with a quilted
band at the ankle (poncha) worn by men and
women.
Dhilja: A woman’s pai-jama made of silk, cut wide
and straight.
Garara: A woman’s pai-jama cut loose to the knee
and adding gathers.
Farshi: A woman’s pai-jama cut without folds to
the knees, and then gathered into pleats to the
floor.
Costume details
MUGHAL EMPIRE
Women’s clothing
ladies wore multiple layers of clothing, with a tight fit-
ting bodice that stopped short of the navel.The length
hit the knees or lower, the waist fastened closely, and
the neckline was in a “V” shape.
Fig:Costume of women in Mugal court

11. Ornamented shoes with turned up toes (Jhuti) were
Persian in style, and were worn by men and women.
Some other footwear were:
The Kafsh, worn by nobles and kings
The Charhvan, with a curling tongue fixed to the toe
The Salim Shahi, decorated in gold
The Khurd Nau, very lightweight, made of kid
leather
Lucknow was most famous for it’s footwear in
Mughal times, and the art of Aughi, embroidery on
leather and velvet footwear, was very popular.
MUGHAL EMPIRE
Footwear
Men’s fashion
People prefer wearing them on traditional occasions like
weddings. Along with traditional dresses like sherwani or
kurta pajama, juttis form the quintessential accessory.
Fig: jutti for men with extended curved tip, or nokh.
Fig: Ornamented Jutti during Mugal period
Fig: Indian Mojaris Pair

12. Jackets: Jackets over kurtas and saris have become a smart, chic
choice for women across the nation. Historians across the coun-
try and paintings from the era suggest that empress Mumtaz
was extremely fond of the trend. She was often painted wear-
ing a long sleeved kurta under a short-sleeved jacket. The trend
of carrying jackets over the usual kurtas and anarkalis is hence
often credited to Mumtaz herself. Historians assert that jackets
were not meant for women earlier and crafting these jackets
that were rich in fabric and opulent in nature was a brainchild of
the Mughals, notably Mumtaz.
Modern twist
by
Indian designers
MUGHAL EMPIRE
Modern twist given to traditional jacket
Men’s jacket inspired by Akbar’s jacket

13. Shruti Haasan walk the ramp for Mughal India Show by Anushree Reddy
Reynu Taandon takes the ramp accompanied by showstop-
per Richa Chadha
This new collection juxtaposes the traditions of the
Mughal era with the taste of a modern day
Ethnicity is kept intact, fusing it with modern con-
struction to make the ensemble fit for a modern bride.
Fine fabrics such as rich velvet and Benarasi as the
base for lehengas and anarkali suits has been used.
Intense threadwork embroidery has been meticulously
worked upon. Tulle and cancan has been used to cre-
ate a lacy, floating look. Deep colours like burgundy,
tomato red and hot pink dominate this line. Cocktail
saris use shimmer chiffon, bejewelled borders and
Renaissance motifs all over as the jaal. Detailed bejew-
elled bustiers have been coordinated with the saris and
lehengas.
FASHION
RELIVING MUGAL