Perfumery presentation

Perfume

1. PERFUME TRAINING

2. GENERAL

3. What Is a Fragrance? A combination obtained through bringing together raw materials or simple notes. The harmony of such a combination depends on the balance and olfactory intensity of each note. Composed of three moments in its life: top/head notes, middle/heart notes, and bottom/base notes that are created with knowledge of: Evaporation process & Intended use of perfumery. Top Notes Middle Notes Base Notes

4. Top Notes Create the first impression, give initial sparks and make an impact. Top notes are made up of lighter molecules that evaporate the fastest. Typical Ingredients: citrus notes, aromatic/herbal notes, green notes, spicy notes.

5. Middle Notes Middle notes add character. They follow the top notes and serve as a transition to the base notes. Typical Ingredients: floral notes, fruity notes, spicy notes, green notes, aromatic/herbal notes.

6. Base notes support Top & Middle notes. They evaporate the slowest, and have the strongest long-lasting power, thus, determining much of the character of a fragrance. Ingredients: amber notes, woody notes, sweet notes, musk notes, leather notes. Base Notes

7. Raw Materials Perfumery uses a very large range of raw materials ( about 1500 different ones at least ), They can be divided by their origin: ANIMAL ambergris, musk, castoreum , civet, etc VEGETABLES petals, flowers, rhizomes, roots, wood, bark, grass, leaves, fruits, seeds, pods, beans, gums, resins, algae, etc SYNTHETIC petroleum (mineral origin), turpentine or basic raw materials of chemical industry: coumarin, aldehyde, hedione , vanillin, etc

8. Raw Materials Carrot Seed Oil Great perfumers are good at thinking outside the box, focusing on scent and utilizing seemingly odd ingredients to make amazing fragrances.

9. Olfactory Families Olfactory families allow individual perfumes to be classified according to their key olfactory characteristics. They are created either by grouping together raw materials (like flowers, woods, aromatics or citric fruits) or by taking inspiration from traditional accords (oriental or chypre , for example). 

10. Olfactory Families - Traditional Single Floral Family Dominated by the scent from one particular flower Floral Bouquet Family Combination of several flowers Amber/Oriental Family A mixture of warmth and sensuality Woody Family Hot, dry and elegant masculine chords Leather Family Midline between masculine & feminine, sharp & characteristic aroma Fougere Family Herbs, spices, masculine and aromatic scent Chypre Family Characterized as strong, spicy and powdery

11. Olfactory Families – Modern Bright Floral Family Combining the traditional single floral & floral bouquet type Green Family A lighter and more modern kind of smell than chypre family, freshness is its signature Aquatic Family Bright, fresh and natural touch Citrus Family Clean and freshening Fruity Family Greedy and sweet notes, very playful Gourmand Family Scents with “edible” or “dessert” like qualities

12. Natural perfume is a fragrance derived completely from minimally processed natural materials, containing only pure essential oil . It doesn’t last for a very long time, but it’s 100% biodegradable. Natural Perfume

13. Synthetic Perfume Synthetic perfumes are artificial compounds / materials that contain Synthetic + Natural scent ingredients + Alcohol + Water. It lasts a lot longer than natural perfumes, but it uses non-renewable energy sources, so it’s more aggressive to the environment.

14. Synthetic Perfume Ingredients: Are They Bad?

15. A bit of perfume math: 4 tons of roses = 1.600.000 rose blossoms = 1 kg of rose oil. Did You Know? Many synthetic ingredients are created as alternatives to natural ingredients due to high costs ( ie . iris), overharvesting ( ie . sandalwood), or regulation. Ingredients are restricted or banned if they are in the allergens list ( ie . oakmoss ), or because obtaining them causes harm to natural species ( ie . musk). Synthetic materials allow perfumers to expand their palettes, reinventing naturally occurring smells, and creating entirely new smells.

16. TECHNICAL

17. Production Process Raw Material Essential Oils Pouring Blending Packing Quality Control

18. Raw Material Essential oils & synthetic compounds (named A, B, C, D in this diagram) are stored horizontally in drums on shelves

19. Essential Oil Pouring We produce a mixture of essential oils based on our own developed formulas expressed as a quantity percentage. Eg : Formula 325 Ingredient A= 20% Ingredient C= 45% Ingredient B= 15% Ingredient D= 20%

20. Blending Once all ingredients are in the inox tank, we proceed to blend them until the mix is homogeneous.

21. Packing We pack the resulting oil blends back in drums or other Chemarome packaging options. Now, it is ready to be shipped to our client.

22. Quality Control We set up Quality Procedures based on ISO 9001 that ensure that our products and services comply with a defined set of quality criteria and meet the customer requirements.

23. Fragrance Storage Fragrance compounds in perfumes will degrade or break down if improperly stored in the presence of: 1) Heat 3) Oxygen 2) Light 4) Extraneous Organic Materials The shelf life of a fragrance in an un-opened drum is about 2 years.

24. Formula Structure Adapting formulas to different applications is something very common in the perfumery industry. To ensure an optimum result, we must adapt the formula structure (top, body and base) to the final application. A Fragrance for Dishwashing Liquid Does not need to be long lasting because customers do not want to have their lunch on scented dishes. That is the reason why the top note is the main one, followed by the body note and with a nearly inexistent base. A Fragrance for Fabric Softener Consumers these days want their laundry to smell fresh and clean not only when they are first taken from the wash, but for weeks afterwards. That is the reason why base notes are dosed significantly in fragrances for Fabric softener.

25. Formula Structure Personal Care EDT Body Milk Shower Gel 25% 25% 50% 15% Covering Effect 30% Sniff 55% Substantivity 10% Covering Effect 40% 50%

26. Formula Structure Household Multipurpose/Disinfectant Dishwashing Liquid EDT 25% 25% 50% 30% Covering Effect Air Freshening 25% Sniff 45% Long Lasting 35% Covering Effect 60% 5% Fixation

27. Fabric Softener 15% 25% 60% Multipurpose/Disinfectants 30% 25% 45% Candles 20% 30% 50% Body Milk 15% 30% 55% EDT 25% 25% 50% Electric Air Freshener 65% 10% 25% Detergent 15% 25% 60% Shower Gel 10% 40% 50% Mikados 35% 55% 10% Dishwashing Liquid 35% 60% 5% Formula Structure

28. Fragrance Dosage Applications Dosage Perfume 18-25% Eau de Perfume 12-22% Eau de Toilette 8-15% Bath Products 0.5-5% Body Wash 0.3-1% Shampoo 0.3-1% Applications Dosage Creams 0.2-0.5% Emulsions 0.1-1% Detergents 0.1-1% Fabric Softeners 0.1-1% Soaps 0.5-3%

29. MARKETING

30. What We Do Olfactory Beauty Field

31. i Fine Fragrances Personal Care Products Shower gel, Shampoo, Deodorant, Cream Products Application Fine Fragrances & Personal Care Products Western Fragrances & Oriental Fragrances

32. Detergents & Floor Cleaners Products Application Home Care Applications Air Fresheners, Candles & Bakhoor

33. Paints, Glue & Lubricants Products Application Industrial Applications