PGFD-25,2.pptx......................................

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1. PGFD-25 PMT I 1 01 BODICE BODICE BLOCK

2. OBJECTIVE To understand the process of making BODICE BLOCK according to standard and personal measurements.

3. INTRODUCTION A bodice is an article of clothing for women and girls, covering the body from the neck to the waist. The term typically refers to a specific type of upper garment common in Europe during the 16th to the 18th century, or to the upper portion of a modern dress to distinguish it from the skirt and sleeves. The term comes from pair of bodies (because the garment was originally made in two pieces that fastened together, frequently by lacing). A basic bodice block is a great starting point for most patterns involving your top half – it can be used to make tops and dresses, and paired with a sleeve block can be used to make shirts, blazers, jackets and coats. Many patterns evolve from this block.

4. INTRODUCTION

5. HOW TO TAKE MEASUREMENTS Height: Stand with your feet slightly apart and your back against a wall. Have a helper measure from the floor to the tip top of your head. Bust: Relax your arms at your sides, measure the fullest part of your bust, keeping the tape parallel to the floor. Waist: Measure loosely around your natural waist. Your natural waist will be between your belly button and your rib cage, usually your natural waist is in line with your elbows. Hips: Measure the fullest part of your hips and back side, making sure to keep the tape is one again level and loose. Rise: Holding the tape at the center back of your natural waist. Run the tape between your legs, pulling comfortably at the crotch, and up to your natural waist in front. Inseam: Measure from your crotch to the bottom of your ankle (inside). Arm: Bend your elbow 90 degrees and place your hand on your hip. Hold the tape at the center back of your neck. Measure across your shoulder to your elbow, and down to your wrist. The total length in inches is your sleeve length.

6. TAKING BODICE MEASUREMENTS

7. TAKING BODICE MEASUREMENTS FRONT (1) Across Shoulder – CF neck to the tip of your shoulder (2) Across Chest, also called high bust (3) Bust Arc (4) Waist Arc (5) High Hip Arc (6) Full Hip (7) Hip Depth

8. TAKING BODICE MEASUREMENTS BACK (8) Back Neck (9) Across Shoulder (10) Across Back (11) Back Arc (12) Back Waist Arc (13) High Hip Arc (14) Full Hip Arc (15)Hip Depth

9. TAKING BODICE MEASUREMENTS FRONT AND BACK MEASUREMENTS (16) CF Length (17) High Point of Shoulder (HPS) to waist (18) Shoulder Slope (19) CB Length (20) HPS to Waist (21) Shoulder Slope

10. TAKING BODICE MEASUREMENTS VERTICAL MEASUREMENTS (16) CF Length (17) High Point of Shoulder (HPS) to waist (18) Shoulder Slope (19) CB Length (20) HPS to Waist (21) Shoulder Slope

11. S.NO NAME DESCRIPTION MEAS. (IN INCHES) 1 FULL LENGTH HPS OVER BUST TO WAIST LINE 17 AND 5/8 2 C. F. LENGTH NECK BASE TO WAISTLINE 14 AND 5/8 3 FRONT BUST ARC C.F. OVER BUST TO S.S. 10 4 BACK ARC C.B. TO S.S. ( 1 INCH BELOW ARMPIT) 8 AND 5/8 5 FRONT WAIST ARC C.F. TO S.S. (WAISTLINE) 7 6 BACK WAIST ARC C.B. TO S.S. (WAISTLINE) 6 AND 5/8 7 F DART PLACEMENT C.F. TO PRINCESS LINE (WAISTLINE) 3 AND 1/4 8 B DART PLACEMENT C.B. TO PRINCESS LINE (WAISTLINE) 3 AND 1/4 9 C.B. LENGTH NECK BASE TO WAISTLINE 16 AND 3/4 10 ACROSS BACK 4” BELOW CB/NECK PT TO ARMHOLE 7 11 SHOULDER HPS TO LPS 5 AND 1/4 12 UNDERARM SEAM WAIST/S.S. TO 1” BELOW ARMPIT 8 AND 3/8 13 SHOULDER SLOPE C.F. TO LPS (OVER BUST) 17 AND 3/4 14 BUST HEIGHT HPS TO APEX 9 AND 1/2 15 BUST SPAN C.F. TO APEX 3 AND 7/8 16 NECK WIDTH C.F. TO LPS 3 SIZE 10 MEASUREMENTS

12. PATTERN OF BODICE BLOCK

13. PATTERN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCE

14. When preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting: If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle (blocking) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it. If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric. USEFUL TIPS

15. ASSIGNMENT Make a full scale pattern of the BODICE BLOCK using the standard measurements as briefed in the tutorial.