TECH PACK D ocument which contains all the necessary specifications to construct a garment or a sewn product for prototype or production purposes. P rovides the manufacturer with a detailed “road map” on how to make your sewn prototype, sales samples, or production. Every detail from the style number, season, thread color , embroidery placement, and vendor information is clearly identified.
TECH PACK Many may contain specs and garment measurements, layouts for artwork, full color or black and white flat sketches, and information for labels and hangtags. Teck Packs are in an Excel spreadsheet format or in a template format that can be completed by hand. These documents are generated and completed by the technical designer and finalized with merchandisers.
EXPLAINING TECH PACK WITH RESPECT TO THE GARMENT AND THE BUYER: SHIRT DRESS
SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’S STYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14 SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSES PRODUCT TYPE COMPETING BRAND WOMENS DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGER FABRIC LINING CHAMBRAY 100% COTTON (YARN DYED) 100% COTTON (PIECE DYED) GARMENT DESCRIPTION
GARMENT DESCRIPTION BACK FRONT SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’S STYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14 SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSES PRODUCT TYPE COMPETING BRAND WOMENS DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER FABRIC NAME LINING CHAMBRAY 100% COTTON (YARN DYED) 100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)
TECHNICAL SKETCH
FABRIC DETAILS - Shell
FABRIC DETAILS - Lining
LABEL PLACEMENT AND PACKAGING SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’S STYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14 SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSES PRODUCT TYPE COMPETING BRAND WOMENS DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER FABRIC LINING CHAMBRAY 100% COTTON (YARN DYED) 100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)
LABEL PLACEMENT AND PACKAGING SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’S STYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14 SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSES PRODUCT TYPE COMPETING BRAND WOMENS DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER FABRIC LINING CHAMBRAY 100% COTTON (YARN DYED) 100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)
MEASUREMENT SPECIFICATION SHEET
FABRIC AND TRIM PLACEMENT - Front
FABRIC AND TRIM PLACEMENT - Back
FABRIC AND TRIM PLACEMENT - Details
S NO. ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED NEEDLE 1 FRONT SHELL 301 10 Gather front. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 2 FRONT SHELL 301 10 Join front to front yoke. Top stitch. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 3 BACK SHELL 301 10 Gather back. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 4 BACK YOKE 301 10 Join back to back yoke. Top stitch. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 CONSTRUCTION DETAILS SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’S STYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14 SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSES PRODUCT TYPE COMPETING BRAND WOMENS DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER FABRIC LINING CHAMBRAY 100% COTTON (YARN DYED) 100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)
S NO. ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED NEEDLE 5 SHOULDER SHELL 301 10 Join front and back at shoulder. Busted seam. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 6 SLEEVE SHELL 301 10 Make sleeve. Busted seam SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 7 ARMHOLE SHELL 301 & 504 3/16 Set sleeve. 3 thread overedge stitch. SNLS & Overedge machine DB*1 SIZE 12 8 POCKET FLAP SHELL 301 10 Make pocket flap. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 CONSTRUCTION DETAILS SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’S STYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14 SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSES PRODUCT TYPE COMPETING BRAND WOMENS DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER, FABRIC LINING CHAMBRAY 100% COTTON (YARN DYED) 100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)
S NO. ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED NEEDLE 9 POCKET FLAP SHELL 301 10 Attach pocket flap to front shell. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 10 POCKET BAG SHELL 301 10 Attach pocket bag to front shell. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 11 SLEEVE SHELL 301 N/A Set snap. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 12 FRONT FACING 301 10 Join facing to front lining. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 CONSTRUCTION DETAILS SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’S STYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14 SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSES PRODUCT TYPE COMPETING BRAND WOMENS DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER FABRIC LINING CHAMBRAY 100% COTTON (YARN DYED) 100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)
S NO. ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED NEEDLE 13 BACK FACING 301 10 Join back facing to back lining. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 14 FRONT LINING 301 10 Join front lining to back lining setting care lebel . SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 15 CENTRE BACK LINING 301 10 Attach main label at centre back. End sewn. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 16 SHOULDER LINING 301 10 Join front and back at shoulder setting hanger loops. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 CONSTRUCTION DETAILS SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’S STYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14 SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSES PRODUCT TYPE COMPETING BRAND WOMENS DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER FABRIC LINING CHAMBRAY 100% COTTON (YARN DYED) 100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)
S NO. ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED NEEDLE 17 SLEEVE LINING 301 10 Make sleeve leaving 6” gap. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 18 TAB SHELL 301 10 Make tab. Setting snap. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 19 INSIDE SLEEVE LINING 301 10 Attach tab to the inside of sleeve. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 20 ARMHOLE LINING 301 10 Set sleeve. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 CONSTRUCTION DETAILS SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’S STYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14 SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSES PRODUCT TYPE COMPETING BRAND WOMENS DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER FABRIC LINING CHAMBRAY 100% COTTON (YARN DYED) 100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)
S NO. ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED NEEDLE 21 DRESS BODY 301 10 Join lining to shell. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 22 DRESS BODY 301 10 Turn right side out. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 23 SLEEVE LINING 301 10 Whip stitch sleeve gap. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 24 PLACKET SHELL 301 10 Make placket. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 CONSTRUCTION DETAILS SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’S STYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14 SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSES PRODUCT TYPE COMPETING BRAND WOMENS DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER FABRIC LINING CHAMBRAY 100% COTTON (YARN DYED) 100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)
S NO. ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED NEEDLE 25 FRONT SHELL 301 10 Set placket to front shell. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 26 COLLAR SHELL 301 10 Make collar. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 27 DRESS NECKLINE 301 10 Set collar. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 28 CUFF SHELL 301 10 Make cuff. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 CONSTRUCTION DETAILS SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’S STYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14 SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSES PRODUCT TYPE COMPETING BRAND WOMENS DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER FABRIC LINING CHAMBRAY 100% COTTON (YARN DYED) 100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)
S NO. ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED NEEDLE 29 SLEEVE OPENING 301 10 Set cuff. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 30 SHELL FRONT 301 10 Set zipper. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 31 POCKET FLAP 301 N/A Set snap button. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 32 POCKET BAG 301 N/A Set snap button. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 CONSTRUCTION DETAILS SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’S STYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14 SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSES PRODUCT TYPE COMPETING BRAND WOMENS DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER FABRIC LINING CHAMBRAY 100% COTTON (YARN DYED) 100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)
S NO. ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED NEEDLE 33 CUFF SHELL 301 N/A Set snap button. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 34 LINGING HEM 301 10 Hem skirt lining. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 35 SHELL HEM 301 10 Hem shell. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 36 SHELL HEM 301 N/A French tack lining to shell. SNLS DB*1 SIZE 12 CONSTRUCTION DETAILS SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’S STYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14 SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSES PRODUCT TYPE COMPETING BRAND WOMENS DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER FABRIC LINING CHAMBRAY 100% COTTON (YARN DYED) 100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)
S NO. ATTACHMENT STITCH CLASS SPI CONSTRUCTION MACHINE USED NEEDLE 37 N/A N/A N/A QUALITY ASSURANCE N/A N/A 38 N/A N/A N/A PRESS GARMENT N/A N/A 39 N/A N/A N/A HANG, TAG, BAG N/A N/A CONSTRUCTION DETAILS SEASON/YEAR FALL 2012 BRAND LEVI’S STYLE NO. 5280AB SIZE RANGE MISSY/0-14 SEGMENT WOMENS PRODUCT CATEGORY DRESSES PRODUCT TYPE COMPETING BRAND WOMENS DIESEL, AG, TOMMY HILFIGHER FABRIC LINING CHAMBRAY 100% COTTON (YARN DYED) 100% COTTON (PIECE DYED)
BILL OF MATERIALS
BILL OF MATERIALS
SAMPLING The samples decide the ability of an exporter. The buyer will hire the exporter and his organisation only by the samples. The exporter can estimate the yarn consumption for developing the fabric, a clear idea on costing more ever the manufacturing difficulties. The exporter can optimize the processing parameters for mass production, which helps to avoid all kind of bottlenecks.
SAMPLING PROCEDURE
TYPES OF SAMPLES PRE- PRODUCTION SAMPLES
SAMPLING Levi’s sends the tech pack and PAF (Proto approval form) to its own buying house. PROTO SAMPLE The buying house gets 2 proto samples constructed each for: Design team of Levi’s Technical team of Levi’s Similar fabric and trims are used or may be made with poplin or muslin. The proto samples are then sent to the buyer who will actually examine if the product will be appreciated in the market. If the proto sample is approved, the buying house gets the fit sample developed with the measurement and grading details. FIT SAMPLE The fit sample is first examined by the buying house and they leave their comments in the product approval form. The fit sample is then sent to the buyer for the approval who also leave their comments on the same. Actual fabric and trims are used. Done in medium size. To correct all fit related problems Any delay in fit sample will cause delay in P.O.
SAMPLING SALESMAN SAMPLE Submitted parallel with fit sample Exactly the same fabric and trims are used. Done with sample yardage Made in medium size used for advertising and visual merchandising SIZE SET SAMPLE Made in all sizes Actual fabric from bulk is used Minimum of 2 size set sample is made Done after P.O. is received GPT(GARMENT PERFORMANCE TEST) SAMPLE Sample is sent to either third –party or in-house testing lab Test results should get approved well in advance from buyer Done before pre-production sample PILOT RUN SAMPLE Done to see the complications in actual production To give the sufficient time for operator’s learning Pilot run can be conducted before or after PP Meeting.
SAMPLING SEALER SAMPLE It is used as a reference for supervisors and trainers It is done in medium size Done from bulk yardage Every line has one sealer sample Used for production detailing Once approved ,the style size,colour , nothing can be changed. Top Of Production Sample From first few pieces of sample TOP sample is submitted to buyer. It’s very crucial stage If TOP sample get rejected then production end date is going to be delayed . Hence it can straight way affect the shipment date SHIPMENT SAMPLE It is sent with full packaging Randomly one sample is picked and sent
TIME AND ACTION CALENDAR It is a popular tool used in apparel manufacturing industry It is a technique for tracking and following up of important milestones The chart consists of time frames listed for every action planned PURPOSE OF TIME AND ACTION CALENDAR(TNA) To cross check at frequent intervals whether the planning is being executed satisfactorily. TNA is especially useful when a buyer wants to know the status of execution of an order. STRUCTURE OF TNA In order to make TNA below mentioned information must be available Process flow of an order Production capacity of cutting, sewing, washing and finishing For sewing - batch wise and product wise capacity (production per day per batch) Lead time of activities, e.g. raw material lead time, sampling lead time, etc. Shipment date or planned ex-factory date
TIME AND ACTION CALENDAR No. Key Activities Time Taken 1. PROTO SAMPLE SUBMISSION N/A 2. PROTO SAMPLE APPROVAL 18 DAYS 3. ORDER CONFIRMATION 1 DAY 4. FIT SAMPLES SENT TO BUYER 30-32 DAYS 5. APPROVAL OF FIT SAMPLE 25 DAYS 6. SALESMAN SAMPLE SENT TO BUYER SENT PARALLEL TO FIT SAMPLES 7. APPROVAL OF SALESMAN SAMPLE 25 DAYS 8. P.O. RAISED BY BUYER 1-2 DAYS
NO: KEY ACTIVITIES PLANNED DATE 9. SIZE SET SAMPLE SENT TO BUYER 40 DAYS AFTER PO IS RECEIVED 10. APPROVAL OF SIZE ST SAMPLE 18 DAYS 11. GPT SENT TO BUYER SENT PARALLEL TO SIZE SET SAMPLE 12. GPT APPROVED BY BUYER 21 DAYS 13. PLANNED CUT DATE 1 DAY AFTER APPROVAL 14. CUT PANEL SEND TO EMBROIDERY 1 DAY 15. PILOT RUN 2 DAYS LATER 16. PRE PRODUCTION MEETING AFTER 3 DAYS OF PILOT RUN 17. SEALER SAMPLE SENT TO BUYER IMMEDIATE AFTER PILOT RUN 18. APPROVAL OF SEALER SAMPLE 7 DAYS 19. PRODUCTION START DATE 1-2 DAYS AFTER APPROVAL OF SEALER SAMPLE 20. TOP SAMPLE SENT TO BUYER 4 DAYS LATER 21. TOP SAMPLE APPROVAL WITHIN 4 DAYS
IMPORTANCE OF TNA Helps to streamline the pre-production activities. Easy understanding of order processing. Clear understanding of timelines given by buyer. Clear idea about the minor or sub activities Gives idea about the status of running order and delay Gives the dates at which raw material need to be sourced, Also reduces the risk of delivery delay.
LAB DIP Lab dip is small swatch of fabric to define color and its recipe before it goes for bulk dyeing. This is also a master piece for both buyer & manufacturer that give correct source what to be color look like and what is the corresponding dyestuff recipe would be. Lab dip is important because different combination of dyes or different color recipe produces different shades. The dye houses matches their lab dip with buyers’ reference colour . Process Sequence of Lab Dip: Lab dip requisition from buyer Entry in the computer First recipe is given by swatch/ pantone number first correction second correction Grading of sample (A,B,C,D) Yarn knit sample send to buyer approved by buyer Order for bulk production Production card with approved sample
BENEFITS Manufacturing a sewn product is similar to putting a puzzle together; you are presented with different shapes, sizes, and color and it has to put together and finished just like the reference sample provided. A tech pack helps to stay organized and focused. It helps with patternmaking, grading, calculating yields and costing. A tech pack also confirms that all necessary information is provided to the factory and will insure the accuracy of the final product.