Textiles and costumes of Rajasthan

Textiles and costumes of Rajasthan

1. TEXTILES AND COSTUMES OF RAJASTHAN

2. In Rajasthan, you can not ignore the charm of colourful prints, which have been stealing the heart of Rajasthani women for centuries and now grabbing the attention of the entire world.

3. TEXTILES OF RAJASTHAN Rajasthan is a land of vibrant colours ; these colours are a striking part of the Rajasthani life and are found in the bustling bazars , in fairs & festivals, in the costumes worn and in the traditional paintings & murals. Rajasthani textiles are the representative of that myriad hue woven in the cloth. Be it the multi coloured tie and dye work or excellent block printing , Rajasthan astonishes the entire world with its skill and efficiency.

4. The Textile of Rajasthan has a fascinating range of dyed and block printing fabrics . Each state has its own special colour-scheme design and technique.

5. Some of Rajasthan textiles are- Hand-block prints - the quilts of Sanganer , Bagru are the favorites . Tie and dye - Bandhej , Bandani , Lehriya , Batik, Mothra , Ekdali , Shikari , Cheent comes under this category. Bandhej - Bandhej of Jodhpur, Sikar , Jaisalmer , Barmer , Pali , Udaipur, Jaipur is more popular. Zari - Gota , zardosi , banarsi for formal and bridal ensembles, metallic and threaded embroidery.

6. The lehriya is an entire line of cloth is dyed in different colours . Udaipur's lehriya work is well known . Samdar Lehar, Phagun are the designs to be worn in the spring season. Textile and fabric colouring and dying can be seen at length in the communities of Leelgarhs and Rangrez . The Chunari and Bandhej (the art of tying a small point on the cloth by threads and later dyed with the required colours. After drying when opened, there is a small circle in the white splashed around the fabric) is known as tie and dye . Jodhpur, Jaipur , Bikaner are famous for this.

7. Dyeing in Rajasthan has a special significance for its tie and dye Cloth. Rajasthan also has a wealth of dye yielding plant and waters of its river seen to have special properties that derive the vivacity of the color in which the material is dyed. The fabric that is used for dyeing is GREIRGE cloth or unprocessed material. Natural material are commonly used for dyeing includes Alizarin, alum, myrobulan , iron tilings , turmeric , kesula flower ,indigo and pomegranated rind . DYEING IN RAJASTHAN

8. Alizarin is red dye . Pomegranated rind ,turmeric is yellow dye. Neel or Indigo is blue dye . Rajasthan has number of dyeing centers. The most prominent centers are at jodhpur, Jaipur and sikar . Sikar produce some of the finest dyeing fabrics and they produce range of patterns which are made for different communities in Rajasthan ,Haryana and even Punjab.

9. Leheriya Leheriya is widely known variation of design in fabric that is produced using tie and dye technique. The term leheriya means “WAVE”. The dyer creates wave like pattern by producing diagonal strips on fabric. Practised mostly in jodhpur , jaipur and udaipur . Fabric usually used are delicate light fabric such as cotton voile, fine silk and chiffon.

10. LEHERIYA

11. LEHERIYA

12. A checkered pattern is called “MOTHRO” and is produced by intersecting diagonal strips. SATRANGA and PANCHRANGA are other beautiful patterns . GANDADAR , PRATAPSHAHI , RAJASHAHI , SAMUDRALEHAR and SALAIDAR are again variations on strips.

13. Block printing Block printing is well known in Rajasthan especially in Jaipur and Jodhpur. It is practiced in almost every village in Rajasthan. Most famous center are Sanganer , Bagru .Block printing are done by Blocks known as “CHHAPPA” Poppy ,rose ,lotus usually against white background are characteristic of fabric printed at sanganer . Wild flowers, buds and foilage are inspiration to the printers of Bagru .

14. BLOCK PRINTING

15. Rajasthan is the heartland of hand-block printing. Stunning, unusual combinations of scarlet shocking pink, purple and orange, turquoise and parrot green, saffron and crimson, shot with gold and silver steal the limelight in any gathering. The process of hand block printing includes artisans to soak carved wooden blocks in different colours and then paste them on the fabric thus creating some magical wonder on the piece of cloth. Exquisite floral prints and designs made in vegetable colour is the specialty of Rajasthan block printing. The art of Khari or overprinting in gold is also practiced in Rajasthan . This makes the traditional form of block printing even more charming and contemporary.

16. Usually motifs on fabric are blend of flowers , buds, leaves and other forms such as KERI(mango) , PAN , KATAR and JHUMKA. The GAD , REKH and DATTA are three types of blocks that are distinguishable by their different style of carving.

17. Ajrak printing Ajrak printing has become famous all over the northwestern states of india . Gujarat is major Hub for this ajrak printing. The ajrak technique is used to create various Functional garment like the head covering ,sarong , lungi . Meghval and sindhi muslim women wear Ajrak printed gharghra and odhani .

18. AJRAK PRINTING

19. AJRAK PRINT

20. Khadi and chamki work The khadi and chamki work is popular because it enhances the glamour of the fabric , even the plainest textile. Chamki work is also known as Tinsel printing. Most common motifs used in khadi printing are Phul , Mogra , Chandani , Buti , Keri , Mor and Khaja .

21. KHADI AND CHAMKI WORK

22. Weaving in Rajasthan The art of interlacing yarns is well known in Rajasthan for ages. The basic step of weaving in Rajasthan is shedding , picking, beating ,taking up and letting off followed by the secondary steps. The village weaver in Rajasthan traditionally produces two type of cotton cloth , the KHAADI and the REZA

23. WEAVING

24. PATTU weaving This weaving is famous for its particular weaving style of special shawls or blanket. The pattu is a term derived from a word “ patti ” which means narrow strips . Cream ,brown and black color are usually used in Pattu weave. Synthetic dyes are also used in bright red, saffron , blue , green , pink and orange.

25. PATTU WEAVE

26. PATTU WEAVING

27. Embroidery in Rajasthan Rajasthani textiles come in a fascinating range of dyed and block-printed fabric which are further embellished with embroidery . The women of Rajasthan have mastered the art of embroidering fabrics. In applique , different pieces of cloth are patched together to make a multi-coloured mosaic. The exotic colours, shapes and pattern combinations against contrasting backgrounds catch the eye. Inspired from the neighbouring state Gujarat, the mirror work is also famous among the local women and people

28. Metal embroidery A popular embroidery style in Rajasthan. Embroidery in gold and silver giving it an auspicious look. Metal embroidery can be classified into three kind: ZARDOSI GOTA WORK DANKE –KA-KAAM

29. Mochi bharat Mochi bharat is actually developed to ornament leather object and is usually created on shoes , animal saddles and trappings.

30. MOCHI BHARAT EMBROIDERY

31. Suf bharat This embroidery style bears a resembles to phulkari of punjab , baluchi embroidery of iran and the needlework of swat , hazara of pakistan

32. Pakko bharat Pakko bharat is so called for its sturdiness and longevity. Both Geometrical and Floral motifs are used.

33. Pakko bharat

34. kharak Its characteristic feature is its cluster of narrow band or bars of satin stitch. Accentuated by green, white , pink , yellow with a stark black outline.

35. Kharak

36. Mukke -ka- kaam The gold and silver metal thread are known as mukke -ka- kaam that produces stunning embroideries .

37. Mukke -ka- kaam embroidery

38. Quilting Quilting and patchwork are highly renowned Textile craft in Rajasthan. The Ralli or Quilt is best known of all these items that involves patchwork and quilting.

39. Quilting

40. COSTUMES OF RAJASTHAN Costume of Rajasthan are extremely bright , colorful and Elegant. The beautifully designed and vibrantly colored clothes Lend cheerfulness to dull colored monotone of the sands and hills. Interesting costumes and jewellery of these desert people are not Mere ornament to them . Everything to the head to toe including The clothes ,turbans, jewellery and even the footwear's establish The identity , religion and the economic social status of the Population in Rajasthan. The clothes are so designed keeping in mind the climatic Condition in which the live.

41. COSTUMES OF RAJASTHANI WOMEN The costume of Rajasthan are much like the region and culture itself. The most commonly worn attire by the women in Rajasthan has been a combination of upper garment clothing that includes the puthia , Kanchi , kurti and the lower garment includes ghaghra or skirt . Odhani or veil is drapped across the body.

42. Puthia Puthia is the upper part of the attire of rajasthani women Giving a sober look. Newborn babies, young unmarried girls ,elderly women's and Widows wear puthia as upper garment. Puthia indicates the non-fertile ,sexually inactive phase of a women’s life. Its very much a like to the angrakha but a shorter Version. Puthia is a double breasted garment with the higher flap crossing The right side and tied with a cord under the left armpit. A newborn baby wears a red puthia with green piping while an unmarried girl usually wears a white puthia with red piping with some floral designs on it which is usually of satin , cotton , brocade or velvet fabric.

43. Kanchli It is often known as choli or angia worn by married women of rajasthan . Although kanchlis are sometimes made from Satin, silk, velvet but cotton is most preffered Fabric for this attire throughout india .

44. Kurti The kurti is an upper garment worn with a kanchli . The kurti is usually a sleeveless garment with a deep,horseshoe shaped neckline. Since the neck is expanded, most of the kanchli worn underneath is clearly exposed . The kurti has its front open, much like a jacket, where the left side has an extension for an overlap over the right part. The Rajput kurti has no centre-front opening and is easily slipped over the head.

45. GHAGHRA Ghagra is one of the most gorgeous and feminine attire for Women wore it as a lower garment. It later evolved into a skirt with a drawstring called the ghaghri . The ghaghri was a narrow skirt, made from five and a half metres of fabric - the same length as the original antariya. Indian women. The kalidar ghaghra is the most popular of these attires. It is a long garment with numerous vertical pleats. It is like a gored s kirt in construction, each gore being a triangular section, known as a kali.

46. Odhana The odhna is also called as odhni . It is a veil that represents the continuation of an unbroken tradition of wearing unstitched lengths of fabric that was the favored style of clothing during ancient India. It is a rectangular cloth, 3-4 meters in length and 1.25-2 meters wide.

47. The chunri is the most frequently used. This is a tie-dyed odhni for the married woman of Rajasthan and its loveliness is often extolled in folk songs and stories . It is usually red, with designs like birds, flowers and leaves that are set in white. Another kind of odhna is the pila . It has a yellow base, a red central motif and borders and is symbolic of the arrival of a newborn in the family in Rajasthan . The lotus flower, a symbol of purity and fertility, lends its name to an odhna called the pomcha , which is made in bandhej and is a combination of red and yellow or red and pink . The borders and central flower are bright red on a ground of pink or yellow.

48. BANDI Bandi , Costume for Rajasthani Women Bandi is an inner garment of the Rajasthani men, which is very similar to the urban vests in India.The bandi is a close fitting, sleeveless or, sometimes, short-sleeved inner garment that is very much similar to the omnipresent vests of urban areas. The bandi generally features a round neck in the front and the back.

49. Small kid in kesariya bandi and dhoti

50. COSTUMES OF RAJASTHANI MEN The lower garment of Rajasthani men is the unstitched dhoti, the truly native Indian costume, or a stitched garment such as the pyjama, which is a type of trouser. The two upper garments worn by the Rajasthani men are the bandi and the angarkhi , although today the kurta is considered to be the traditional wear.

51. Among royalty and the aristocracy, garments like the jama , achkan , shervani and choga are also worn. Interestingly, the Rajasthani men have a wide range of upper garments to satisfy their sartorial tastes. Two other such rajasthani men garments are the chapkan and the chasuble. The men in Rajasthan wear colourful headgears called the pagri or the turban depending upon the climatic condition of the particular region.

52. Kurta is the most common upper garment of Rajasthan that is lately adopted as the casual wear for many Indian men. The kalidar kurta is made from several geometrical pieces . It has two rectangular central panels in the back and the front. The neck of the kurta is often round; although it may sometimes also have a Chinese collar and most garments have a side pocket . The centre front opening has a placket with buttons and buttonholes as closures. KURTA

53. ANGRAKHA T The angarkha is a part of the traditional male collection and is worn by almost all communities in Rajasthan . The unique design element of an angarkha is the round-edged, sametime , triangular opening at the front and the inner panel known as the parda . The angarkha is made of plain silk or brocade, especially for wedding occasions. Fine cotton voile is also used and block printed cotton, with gold tinsel printing makes for a more dramatic angarkha .

54. JAMA AND BAGA The jama has a tight fitting bodice, high-waist and a flared-skirt , which can vary from knee to ankle length. It is an open-fronted garment with one panel crossed over the other on the front, to be tied at the side just below the right or left armpit rather than the usual opening down in the middle. It is kept in place by tie-cords, which hold back the inner panel on the inside at the waist or armpit. The baga has a wide skirt with panels on the side and an overlapping bodice . The bodice is joined to the skirt by a seam at the waist. The bagatri and bagalbandi are also garments akin to the baga and jama in this region.

55. CHOGA The choga is a popular garment amongst the Rajasthani men. It is described as a long-sleeved robe that fits freely around the bodice and does not have a noticeably tailored look.

56. The choga made of muslin or woven in the jamdani flowered muslin style was worn in summer . It was lightly embroidered with silks, befitting the season. It usually had a narrow floral border on the edges and large floral sprays on its front, back and shoulder and on the lower edges. In winter, woollen and quilted choga were referred, which were embroidered with silk and zardozi .

57. ACHKAN The Achkan is a full-sleeved tunic with a high round neck. This garment has a length, which falls about 3-5 cm. above the knee. It has a full front opening in the centre and is fastened with buttons and buttonholes. The neck is finished with a small stand-up collar, known as the Nehru or Chinese collar. Another garment of similar pattern like Achkan is the shervani .

58. A C H K A N

59. CUMMERBAND Cummerbund or Patka is a waistband made from a long, narrow, strip of cloth; it is extensively used by Rajasthani men. The ornamental fabric of cummerbund is placed around the waist and the long length wrapped several times around. It is then knotted, with its two ends falling gracefully down the front or on the left side. The cummerbund seems to be more decorative than functional in nature . Fine block printing techniques and beautiful embroideries usually embellish the cummerbund. Cotton, silk and, sometimes, wool are also used to make cummerbund, which was worn by most of the Rajasthani royalty.

60. TURBANS Turbans have been one of the most prestigious accessories of the Rajasthani men that depict royalty and status. It has many regional names, such aspagadi , sofa, potia , pag , mandil or shamla . The style of tying the turban, the colour, design ,material, measurements, embellishments and accessories are dictated by many factors. The two most commonly worn headgear of Rajasthan besides the turban are the pagadi and the safa .

61. JUTI The footwear worn in Rajasthan is unique to this region. The footwear is called the juti , mojari or pagarkhi . The people of the Mochi community have practised the traditional craft of making the juti for centuries and continue to do so even today. Other communities like the Regar and Bhambhi , prepare the leather, from which the juti is made . The ari -embroidery worked in chain stitch, is a common style of ornamentation. The tool used in this work is also called an ari .

62. Tribal costumes of Rajasthan There are a huge number of tribal groups in Rajasthan and the costumes of these tribal groups in some cases differ from the designs, fabrics and styles according to difference of the life style of the groups.

63. The costumes of women and men are different. The Bhil woman wears an upper garment called the ` kapada `, a ` ghaghra ` and an ` odhna `. Earlier, the Bhil-women used to wear a shorter knee length skirt to facilitate movement through the undergrowth. The fabric used has a resist-dyed print called ` nandana `, often greenish-blue, dark-blue or black. To the same end, an ornament called the ` pejania ` was worn on the hands, arms and legs offering protection from thorns and animals. The women cover their torso and head with an ` odhna ` or ` lugda `, made of hand-spun fabric that may be block-printed, resist-dyed or screen-printed.

64. The people of Bishnoi tribe also carry a particular tradition in case of their costumes. The most important clothes of the unmarried girls of this community include ` puthia `, ` pada ` or ` pothdi ` and ` odhna `. Bishnoi odhnis display a variety of prints, like the ` rati-chunri `, a red printed chunri `, the ` sundri pakodi ` in cotton and the ` ludi `, which is black. A married woman wears a ` kanchli ` with a ` kurti `, a ` dhabla ` or ` ghaghra ` as her lower garment and an ` odhna `, which she drapes over her body.

65. The Garasia tribal community usually wears black or red blouses with huge petticoats. The men are noted for their red or white turbans. Both the males and females prefer to create tattoo and this is prevalent in the entire community. Garasia dress is very colourful and attractive, both in design and embellishment.

66. The women of Lohar tribe wear ` kanchli `, ` kurti `, ` ghaghra ` and ` odhna `. The upper portion of the ` kanchli ` is profusely ornamented with tinsel, sequins, mirrors and silk threads. The attire of the Lohar men consists of an ` angarkhi `, ` dholi ` and turban. The men wear gold murki and other ear-rings like the ` jhela `.

67. LOHAR TRIBE

68. COLOUR SYMBOLISM OF RAJASTHAN COSTUMES Red, yellow, parrot green, and saffron are some colours which are considered to be kachcha , while the pakka colours are grey, brown, dark green, dark blue and maroon. Red is a popular colour visible in Rajasthani costumes and is considered auspicious, denoting well being and joy. Traditionally it is obtained from the root of the manjit plant and is identical with blood or the force of human life. Red is also a sign of a woman`s marital status. The married woman used red sindur (vermillion), on her forehead as embellishment and also wears a `red chunri `. This colour also denotes erotic connotations and is used at the time of marriage. The colour white on the other hand represents purity and is considered to be an embodiment of light.

69. Jewelry of rajasthan sarpech

70. MOTIFS GENERALLY USED

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