Texture Week 2

Texture week 2

1. pH. Hair Structure. Hair Chemistry. Relaxer Classifications. Techniques. TEXTURE- RELAXERS

2. AGENDA KEY POINTS Relaxer Intros Understanding the Why Hair Structure Chemistry of Relaxers Types of Relaxers Applications Consultation Safety Virgin application Re-touch application Soft Curl/ Curl Reforming Theory Hands-On

3. WHY UNDERSTANDING RELAXERS IS IMPORTANT May also be referred to as a Perm Relaxer is a chemical process that alters the hairs bonds/structure straighter “more relaxed” Having a thorough understanding of how Relaxing works will allow you to: Choose the right relaxer strength Know what chemicals are compatible VS incompatible Main tain the integrity of the hair

4. Quick Tips at a glance Hair & scalp analysis Chemical hair history Only shampoo before a THIO based relaxer Base cream Wear gloves Product should not come into contact with skin Do not over lap previously relaxed hair Periodic strand testing Do not remove more than 80% of curl Rinse thoroughly Do not use excessive heat

5. D . ensity E. lasticity P. orosity T. exture H. air history CONSULTATION With the alkalinity of a Relaxer, a thorough Hair & Scalp IS REQUIRED

6. Hair & Scalp analysis and proper consultation can prevent hair loss, chemical burns, over lapping by choosing right product, application & processing time

7. HAIR TEXTURE- Refers to diameter & cuticle layers Choosing the right Relaxer Strength based off of hair texture: EXAMPLE- Does Fine hair need the same strength as Coarse hair since the cuticle layers are different? up to 18 9-13 4-8

8. WAVE PATTERN STRAIGHT WAVY CURLY EXTRA CURLY COILY KINKY Hair texture and Wave pattern are extremely important Every bend in the hair is a weak point Example: Fine extra curly is most fragile because of cuticle layers & bending point

9. pH Scale- Alkalinity of Relaxer ingredients alone can break the Disulfide bond , , 10 THIO based relaxer 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 pH Scale allows you to understand the true strength of the product compared to the hair Relaxers can have the same pH as drain cleaner THIO and HYDROXIDE Ammonia & Relaxers are 100 million times more alkaline than hair 13 HYDROXIDE based relaxer

10. Main ingredient: ammonium thioglycolate ATG- Same ingredient as a Perm A Reduction Reaction/REDOX just like in a perm Usually have a pH above 10 Usually have a higher concentration of ATG- More than in a Perm Have a thicker viscosity Breaks MORE disulfide bonds then a Perm THIO RELAXERS

11. The neutralization used with thio relaxers is an oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide. The oxidation reaction caused by the neutralizer rebuilds the disulfide bonds that were broken by the thio relaxer. THIO NEUTRALIZER Same Neutralization process as a Perm; Rebuilds disulfide bond by REDOX

12. THIO RELAXERS- ONLY COMPATIBLE WITH THIO REDOX Adds Hydrogen; Breaks SOME Disulfide bonds to smooths, straightens hair REDOX Wrap hair on rollers; Solution adds more HYDROGEN to break DISULFIDE bonds; Neutralizer adds OXYGEN to reform Your text 1 . 2 .

13. Examples: Sodium hydroxide- oldest; most common Potassium hydroxide Lithium hydroxide Guanidine hydroxide NOT COMPATIBLE WITH THIO Have a pH of 13.0 or more Lanthionization - NO REFORMING OF DISULFIDE BOND HYDROXIDE RELAXERS- Metal Based Relaxers; HYDROXIDE ION is active ingredient 2 Components to mix; over the counter relaxer

14. HYDROXIDE RELAXERS- LYE & NO LYE ( lye=caustic substance) SODIUM HYDRO XIDE Most common; ol dest Same ingredient in Depilatories ( Nair ) Sold to Professionals Works faster – higher, stronger amounts of hydroxide Less scalp irritation BECAUSE it breaks bonds faster Can experience scalp irritation if not properly applied ( work quickly ) Experience less hair damage because product does not have to sit on as long because of high amounts of hydroxide NOT RECOMMENDED to use unless licensed LYE BASED

15. HYDROXIDE RELAXERS- LYE & NO LYE ( lye=caustic substance) LITHIUM, POTASSIUM, GUANDIDINE Calcium Hydroxide base Coats hair shaft- Suffocates hair Hair feels “coated”, dry and stiff Better for sensitive scalp because amounts of hydroxide are low Will not straighten coarse or extra curly hair completely Can dry the hair out because product has to sit on longer for enough bonds to break Sold to anyone: “Over the counter”relaxer Usually has 2 components to mix together NO LYE BASED

16. Process DOES NOT involve oxidation or rebuilding disulfide bonds. NO REDOX Hair remains at a high pH. Acid-balanced shampoo or normalizing lotion is used. Disulfide Bond= 2 sulfur atoms HYDROXIDE NEUTRALIZATION- Bond is broken; instead of reforming, 1 sulfur atom remains- called a LANTHIONINE bond NOT disulfide bond LANTHIONIZATION- Disulfide NEVER reforms Caution: Hair that has been treated with hydroxide relaxers is unfit for thio relaxers or soft-curl perms.

17. LOW pH RELAXERS- Sulfite/Bisulfite is REDUCING AGENT Low pH relaxers: ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite most commonly used Compatible with thio ; NOT compatible with hydroxide Does not completely straighten extremely curly hair Can be used on color-treated, damaged, or fine hair Hair history is a MUST KNOW Harder to find

18. Base: require application of base cream to protect skin and scalp during relaxing No-base: do not require protective base cream since they already contain a base cream that melts at body temperature; protective cream may be applied around ears and hairline. BASE & NO BASE RELAXERS

19. Mild: formulated for fine, color-treated, or damaged hair- usually a NO LYE base Regular: intended for normal hair texture with medium natural curl Super: used for maximum strengthening on extremely curly, coarse hair RELAXER STRENGTHS

20. Processing time varies according to strength of relaxer and hair type and condition. You may stretch the strand to determine if curls are removed, or smooth and press the strand to the scalp with the back of comb or fingers. If strand remains smooth, it is sufficiently relaxed. PERIODIC STRAND TESTING

21. OTHER TYPES OF STRAIGHTENING Soft Curl Permanent/ Curl Reforming- ATG Japanese Hair Straightening-ATG Keratin Smoothing Treatment

22. Do thorough hair analysis and consultation. Examine the scalp for abrasions. Keep accurate and detailed client records. Have client sign a release statement. Do not apply hydroxide over thio . Do not apply thio over hydroxide. Do not relax hair treated with metallic dye. Do not relax overly damaged hair. RELAXER SAFETY Do not shampoo prior to hydroxide relaxer. Make sure hair and scalp are dry. Apply protective base cream. Wear gloves. Protect client’s eyes. Flush eyes if solution touches. Do not allow product to touch ears, scalp, or skin.

23. Perform periodic strand tests Avoid scratching scalp Do not overlap relaxer on hair strand Adjust strength for fine/damaged hair Do not remove more than 80 percent of curl Thoroughly rinse relaxer from hair Use normalizing lotion Use neutralizing shampoo with color indicator to confirm restored pH. Use conditioner and wide-tooth comb to eliminate excessive stretching when combing tangles. Do not use hot irons or excessive heat on chemically relaxed hair. RELAXER SAFETY

24. Virgin Relaxer – NO shampoo; Zone 2, Zone 1, Zone 3 Retouch Relaxer – NO shampoo; Zone 1 Soft-Curl Permanent- Shampoo; Relax hair; Perm hair APPLICATIONS- Relaxer is NEVER applied TO THE SCALP

25. VIRGIN APPLICATION DO NOT SHAMPOO FIRST Part into standard 4 sections May need to part Fringe area separately Base Cream IF NEEDED 1/8 to ¼ in subsections depending on density Apply relaxer to Zone 2: ontop and bottom of subsection DO NOT MANIPULATE After all 4 quadrants have Zone 2 covered- begin Manipulating product up to Zone 1 BUT NOT ONTO SCALP Manipulate product down to Zone 3; Apply more product if needed STRAND TEST EVERY 5 MIN DIAGONAL BACK IN FRONT QUADRANTS HORIZONTAL IN BACK QUADRANTS

26. RE-TOUCH APPLICATION DO NOT SHAMPOO FIRST Part into standard 4 sections May need to part Fringe area separately Base Cream IF NEEDED 1/8 to ¼ in subsections depending on density Apply relaxer to Zone 1 ONLY: ontop and bottom of subsection DO NOT OVERLAP- Re-growth area only DO NOT MANIPULATE After all 4 quadrants have Zone 1 covered- begin Manipulating / Smoothing product STRAND TEST EVERY 5 MIN HORIZONTAL IN BACK QUADRANTS DIAGONAL BACK IN FRONT QUADRANTS

27. BRICKLAY PATTERN 1 3 2 4 5 6 9 BASIC WRAP/ STRAIGHT SET SOFT CURL APPLICATION ATG- THIO Base Shampoo first Apply Relaxer based off Guests Hair History DO NOT OVER PROCESS DO NOT COMPLETELY STRAIGHTEN Rinse- NO PRODUCTS Part off for Perm Apply Solution TO EACH SUBSECTION as you wrap Process, Rinse, Neutralize

28. pH. Hair Structure. Hair Chemistry. Relaxer Classifications. Techniques. TEXTURE- RELAXERS What did you learn?