TUCKS.pptx

types of tucks, pleats, ruffles, fasteners, buttons, zippers etc.

1. APEEJAY INSTITUTE OF DESIGN NEW DELHI -BY KHUSHBOO

2. TUCKS A tuck is a fold or pleat in fabric that is sewn in place. Small tucks, especially multiple parallel tucks, may be used to decorate clothing 

3. Types of tucks Pin tucks Space tucks Blind tucks Shell tucks Group tucks Cross tucks Released tucks

4. Pin tucks Pin tucks are parallel rows of raised fabric produced by stitching tight rows of stitches on sewing machines to push up the fabric between them. Pin tucks are common on formalwear and make a nice pattern along the front of a shirt or blouse. application

5. space tucks Space tucks Space tucks are pin tucks made wider than standard pin tucks to be at least ¼-inch wide. They can be pressed flat to create a different decorative look. Bubble tucks are basically space tucks that are tacked together at regular intervals so the fabric puffs and bubbles up. These are commonly used on children’s clothing and other fancier garments. application

6. Group tucks Group tucking is done on the fabric before the garment is cut. Measured, mark and stitch the tuck, placing them close together . Press to one side . Mark the fabric at even intervals in the opposite direction for the crosswise stitching. Stitch across the tucks in the direction they were pressed. Then stitch in the opposite direction in which they were pressed. Continue stitching , alternating the direction of the tucks in each row. application

7. Cross tucks This type of tucking is done on the fabric piece before the garment is cut. Measure , make and stitch all tucks on the lengthwise grain of the fabric. Press all tucks to the side in one direction. Measure , mark and stitch tucks on the crosswise grain. Press all crosswise tucks in one direction. application

8. Released tucks Often used to give shaping to a garment as well as for decorative effect. Usually they are folded and pinned on the marking lines with the right sides of the fabric together. For reinforcement , pivot at the top of the stitching and stitch straight out to the fold line . Back stitch and clip thread. application

9. shell tucks Shell tucks Shell tucks is a variety of pin tucks made with wider lengths of fabric between the lines of stitching. These wider flaps of fabric are then cross-stitched, laying forward and backward to create a twisted or wavy look on the fabric and attractive on blouses, dresses, and other garments. . application

10. Blind tucks Blind tucks Blind tucks are stitched same like space tucks but it does not have any space between seams. Each flap overlaps and hides the next seam. application

11. Pleats . A pleat is folded excess fabric that creates fullness. Pleats are used both as a design element and for functionality and ease of movement. They are created by doubling over fabric on itself to produce a fold. Pleats come in a variety of forms, shapes, and sizes. They can be pressed or un pressed, stitched or unstitched. They may also be grouped evenly or not. Pleats can be found on a variety of garment..

12. Types of pleats Knife pleat Box pleat Inverted box pleat Inverted box pleat with top stitch Inverted box pleat with separate underlay Stitch down pleat Edge stitch pleat

13. Knife pleats Knife pleats have one fold line and one placement line , all the folds are turned in the same direction. Some garments may have one cluster facing one way and another facing the opposite way . application

14. Box pleats Box pleats have two fold lines and two placements lines. The two folds of each pleat are turned away from one another . The back folds in box pleats are facing and may meet , but it is not necessary. application

15. Inverted box pleat Inverted pleat have two fold lines and a common placement line. The two folds of each pleat are turned toward each other and in this case they must meet . The back folds face away from each other. application

16. Inverted box pleats with top stitch Top stitch inverted pleats on both sides of the matched fold lines . Pin mark each pleat where the topstitching will begin . With garment right side up, insert needle between fold lines at marked point. Take two or three stitches across the pleat. application

17. Inverted box pleats with separate underlay inverted pleat in appearance , but constructed with a separate underlay that forms under side of pleat . In place of usual two back folds , there are two seams. application

18. Stitch down pleats Stitching helps to produce a smooth flat fir over the hipline in a pleated skirt. Pleats in position close to the fold edge through all thickness of the skirt , keeping under folds of pleat free. application

19. Edge stitch pleats A special finish used to remain a perfect crease. It adds a trim look to tailored pleated skirt and holds the pleat in position. It is particularly necessary is the pleating is done on the bias grain of a flared skirt. application

20. Gathers Gathers are perhaps the most popular methods of controlling fullness in a garment . gathering is one or two rows of stitching drawn up to form very tiny pleats in the fabric.

21. Gathers by hands you can make gathers by hand , if you prefer . To gather , fasten the thread securely with several tiny back stitches . Sew on the gathering line with small evenly spaced running stitches pull up the thread and distribute the fullness until the section measures the desired length. application application

22. Gathers by machine Gathering by machine is the easiest and quickest method. Adjust the machine to the longest stitch. Place a row of machine stitching on the seam line for gathering with another line close to it . Pull the top threads through to the wrong side of the fabric and anchor the thread at one end securely around pin.   application

23. Gathers by elastic For this we will take ½ “ of elastic then we will put elastic on fabric now we will stretch the elastic and then sew the elastic on fabric this will automatically create gathers on fabric application

24. Gathers by cord For this first we have to sew a flap of ½ “ on back side of the fabric them we put cord under that flap and stretch the cord this makes gathers in fabric. application

25. Shirring Shirring is formed with multiple rows of gathering and is primarily a decorative way of controlling fullness.

26. Shirring by machine Shirring by machine is same as making gathers by machine but in this case we make multiple numbers of stitch parallel to each other in whole fabric after that we pull all threads from both the edges and we make shirring . application

27. Shirring by bobbin elastic Machine shirring involves sewing rows of stitching 1/2″ apart while using elastic thread in the bobbin and all-purpose thread in the needle. The elastic thread evenly gathers the fabric between stitches, creating texture and elasticity. application

28. Ruffles R uffle is a strip of fabric cut or handled in such a way as to produce fullness. Through primarily decorative , ruffles may also serve a practical purpose, such as lengthening a garment.  

29. Plain ruffles A plain ruffle has one finished edge the other edge is gathered to size and then sewn into a seam or onto another unfinished edges. application

30. Single head ruffles Single head ruffle are made from one layer of fabric. application

31. Double head ruffle A double head ruffle is gathered in the centre halfway between the two finished edges . It is then top stitched through the centre to the garment section. application

32. ruffles in a seam Ruffles in a seam line is a common method of finishing of ruffles , especially when ruffles does not continuous the full length of the seam . Position the ruffle on the seam , drawing it beyond the seam allowance until the outer finished edge crosses the seam lines where the ruffle will end. application

33. Plackets An opening or slit in a garment, covering fastenings or for access to a pocket, or the flap of fabric under such an opening. The placket made in a seam is stronger and gives a better finish when completed.

34. Two piece plackets This is used in the left seam of skirts or petticoats and back seam of dresses. The under lap side of this placket is finished with a binding and the overlap with a facing. For this two separate strips of fabric are used, one of width 1' for the overlap and a wider one (2') for the under lap. application

35. Two piece lapped plackets This placket is same as two piece placket but in this placket both the plackets are finished with separate strip and in this one placket is lapped on the other placket. This placket is usually used in shirts. application

36. Continuous plackets These packets can be made on a seam or a slash. It is usually used in children’s garments undergarments like sari petticoat and sleeve openings for a cuff or band. These packets are nor suitable for bulky fabrics or curved seams. application

37. Kurta plackets A kurta placket an attractive look to the garment and also to enhance the strength .It is very often used in the sleeve opening area of men’s shirts, children’s garments where a neck opening is needed. It may be utilized for decorative purposes in children’s and ladies dresses, where the colour of the placket may be contrasting in order to enhance the aesthetic value of the garment. application

38. Fasteners Fastener is a device that secures or closes garment. It can be used in garments for decorative as well as for closing and opening purpose . 1) Button ,Button hole 2) Shank button 3) Snap fastener 5) Hook and bar 4) Hook and eye 1 2 3 4 5

39. LOOP BUTTON application

40. VELCRO application

41. zippers A device consisting of two flexible strips of metal or plastic with interlocking projections closed or opened by pulling a slide along them, used to fasten garments, bags, and other items .

42. Conventional zipper- centred method Conventional zippers have two strips of fabric that are attached at the bottom by a stop. The zipper teeth are visible when the zipper is facing up. Unless a zipper is purposefully exposed as a fashion  application

43. Conventional zipper – lapped method Conventional zippers have two strips of fabric that are attached at the bottom by a stop. The zipper teeth are visible when the zipper is facing up. Unless a zipper is purposefully exposed as a fashion  conventional zippers are often hidden in a garment by lapping a small layer of fabric over the teeth. application

44. Invisible zipper An invisible zipper is a zipper that is hidden within a seam. The only part of the zipper that is seen is a slender zipper pull at the top. An invisible zipper is not sewn in the same manner that regular zippers are sewn. With an invisible zipper, you do not need to bother with straight topstitching on the finished zipper. application

45. Open end zipper Separating zippers are most often used when making jackets and vests. It has stopper at the end and we can apart them easily . Because separating zippers are most often used for coats and longer projects, they often come in longer sizes. And because they are most often used with heavier fabrics, the size of the zipper teeth tend to be larger, and there appears to be a greater variety of metallic choices. application

46. Pockets A pocket is a kind of small bag which forms part of a piece of clothing, and which is used for carrying small things such as money or a handkerchief. Patch pockets Inseam pockets Slash pocket

47. Patch Pocket – round A pocket made of a separate piece of cloth sewn on to the outside of a garment. Patch Pockets are created by attaching a pre-cut pieces of material and sewing them, like a patch, to the outside of a garment, instead of constructing inset pockets. Often patch pockets have a flap at the top and become a feature of the design — think the patch pockets on Paddington Bear’s duffle coat. application

48. Patch Pocket - square They are same as round patch pocket but the only difference is its shape. This pocket is cut in square shape .it can be use for decorative purpose or for functional purpose. application

49. Patch Pocket with flap Flap pockets which consist of an extra lined flap of matching fabric to cover the top of the pocket. This flap present over the pocket prevents the contents inside the pocket from getting wet during rain. At other times, the flap can be tucked into the pocket. application

50. Front hip Pocket Front hip pockets are one of the most common types of   pockets found in jeans, trousers, shorts. application

51. In-seam pocket A pocket in which the opening falls along a seam line of the garment is known as an ‘in-seam pocket’. This type of pocket can be found in pants, skirts, trousers, shorts, kids’ wear, kurtas and pyjamas. application

52. Slash Pocket – bound Slash pockets lie inside the garment and the pocket opening is a slash of some type. application

53. Decorative Pocket It is a pocket which is for both functional and decorative purpose . It can be of any type , any size , any shape. To make this pocket we can use any constructional detail or we can use multiple numbers or details to make it look attractive and to make garment look unique. application

54. Necklines

55. Round neckline with piping In this type of neckline , neckline is finished with a bias strip it is used as piping . Strip is stretched and then sew . Very thin line of that bias strip is visible from front as piping . We use piping for decorative purpose . application

56. Round Neckline with facing A neckline cut in round shape but it is finished with facing. This make the neckline more finished and make the neckline more stiffer. application

57. Round neckline with shape facing A round neckline finished with a bias strip of fabric and hemming is done at the wrong side . In this bias strip is sew without stretching it and it is not visible from front. application

58. V neckline A neckline cut in v – shape and finished with the help of shape facing . This neckline can be deep as per the need of the customer. application

59. square neckline A neckline cut in a square shape and finished with the help of shape facing. application

60. Sweetheart neckline A neckline on a dress or blouse that is low at the front and shaped like the top of a heart. application