TYPES OF JEWELLERY IN INDIA

In India, jewelry is designed to match with the attire. The theme of its design as well as the color of the jewelry is taken into consideration while adoring. To make jewelry more attractive, it is topped by diamonds and various types of gems. Traditionally, Indian jewelry has been made of heavy and voluminous gold pieces, but recently jewelry made of silver, platinum and other metals has become quite popular among people. The popularity of jewelry made of stone, encrusted on metal, has grown more recently. In the following PPT, we will tell you about the different kinds of jewelry in India.
Presented by The students of BA Degree in Jewellery Design & Manufacturing Techniques batch 13

1. Types O f J ewelry

2. Highlights On Varieties Of Jewelry Antique Jewelry Parameters of identifying antique jewelry. Bead Jewelry How is bead jewelry made? Temple Jewelry Navaratna Jewelry Origin of navaratan. Costume Jewelry Fashion Jewelry Filigree Jewelry Jadau Jewelry Imitation Jewelry Lac Jewelry Kundan Jewelry Vintage Jewelry Tribal Jewelry

3. ANTIQUE JEWELRY

4. Jewelry items that are older than 100 years and have witnessed the human evolution over these years is known as antique jewelry. Precious metals like gold, silver and platinum are very commonly used to craft jewels to be adorned by the royals. But yet the commoners still stick to copper, iron and aluminium. Precious stones like rubies, emeralds, sapphires and crystal clear diamonds were studded to make the gems more ornate. Semi-precious ones like topaz, tourmaline, and aquamarine were used to add a tinge of colour to the jewels. ANTIQUE JEWELRY

5. Parameters O f Identifying Antique J ewelry Majority of early jewelry used materials such as silver, with yellow gold as an alternative, or pinchbeck i.e. a form of brass with the copper and zinc components mixed to resemble gold as closely as possible. Platinum was not used until the first decade of the twentieth century and white gold not until the second. Clasps also helps to identify antique jewelry. Particular styles can indicate that jewelry is antique.

6. BEAD JEWELRY

7. BEAD JEWELRY The bead art in India dates back to Indus valley civilization and is said to be 5000 years old. People during that age made beads out of silver, gold, clay, ivory and even wood. India is one of the largest bead producers in the world. Gujarat is highly famous for its bead work. The artisans in Gujarat are specialized in stitching different types of beads on clothes to make it more beautiful and enhance their appeal.

8. How is bead jewelry made? Bead jewelry requires beading wires , with a strand of beads, a few findings, jewelry pliers. Wire jewelry is an easy task, and wire material are not just limited to sterling silver either brass, copper, and also memory wire can be used. The technique used in this is stringing. Crocheting with beads is also a technique.

9. TEMPLE JEWELRY

10. This kind of  jewelry  was used to decorate the idols and Gods and Goddesses in temples.  It is made of finest gold and embedded with several precious gems and stones. Indian jewelry art is at times divided into three kinds - temple jewelry, spiritual jewelry and bridal jewelry Temple jewelry which originated in the 9th century forms a valuable part of South India’s cultural heritage. It has gained a lot of popularity among women and is used by classical dancers to add divinity and uniqueness to their look. Women wear it for attaining a graceful appearance at bridal functions or other traditional occasions. TEMPLE JEWELRY

11. NAVRATNA JEWELRY

12. NAVRATNA JEWELRY T he term “Navaratna” is derived from the Sanskrit compound word which means “nine gems.” Thus Navaratna jewelry refers to jewelry pieces created with the nine gems— diamond, ruby, emerald, coral, pearl, yellow sapphire, blue sapphire, hessonite and cat's eye. Each of these gems is assigned some astrological significance.

13. Origin of navaratna Late Thai astrologer Horacharn Thep Sarikabutr has given the meaning of these nine gems in his  Parichad-Jataka (Chapter 2, verse 21, page 35-36) which is translated in such a way: " Top quality and flawless ruby is the gem for the Sun, natural pearl for the Moon, red coral for Mars, emerald for Mercury, yellow sapphire for Jupiter, diamond for Venus, blue sapphire for Saturn, hessonite for Rahu (ascending lunar node), and cat's eye for Ketu (descending lunar node ).“ And likewise its reference is there in Sanskrit “Brihat Jatak” and “Mani-Mala”

14. COSTUME JEWELRY

15. The terms "costume" and "fashion" are used synonymously when talking about jewelry, but there are some subtle differences in time periods and perceived quality. Costume jewelry  was popularized in the 1930s for practical reasons. Women often possessed valuable pieces that were passed down from mother to daughter as family heirlooms. It was too risky to wear these pieces due to potential damage, loss, and theft, so consumers had replicas made from cheaper materials for everyday wear. The practice of creating faux jewelry became popular because women could expand their jewelry collections for versatility and wardrobe accessorizing without spending a fortune on fine pieces.   COSTUME JEWELRY

16. FASHION JEWELRY

17. Fashion jewelry  is the evolution of costume jewelry and differs only slightly in its intended use. This type gained popularity in the 1980s as young women wore fashion jewelry to make statements. Fashion jewelry styles are constantly changing as new trends emerge whereas costume jewelry encompasses timeless pieces that are now considered vintage or antique. Some fashionable women prefer fashion jewelry over higher end pieces because they can spend less money on jewelry that will only be in style for a season or two. For example in 1980’s jewelry fashions included large, colourful beads on necklaces and bracelets. Young women wore sweatbands on their wrists, ankles, and heads as fashion statements.

18. FILIGREE JEWELLERY Filigree is a delicate kind of jewelry metalwork, usually of gold and silver, made with tiny beads or twisted threads, or both in combination, soldered together or to the surface of an object of the same metal and arranged in artistic motifs .

19. JADAU JEWELRY

20. JADAU JEWELRY Many people tend to confuse jadau with other artworks such as kundan, polki and meenakari. Kundan is a jewelry that is embedded with glass beads. Polki uses the same technique, the only difference being that the stones here are not glass but uncut diamonds called polki. Meenakari is an art of using enamelling in jewelry and finally Jadau is a technique that also uses Polki , Meenakari and Kundan but the technique varies a bit from kundan work. Jad means to be embedded and that is the technique used by artisans who craft this style of jewelry.

21. IMITATION JEWELLERY

22. IMITATION JEWELRY It will be just to define imitation jewelleries as the inexpensive versions of the real pieces that use valuable metals and gemstones. The imitation jewelleries retain the appeal of real jewelries sans its exuberant price tag. For example in place of platinum, it may use some other inexpensive white metal, or can use laboratory produced gemstones in place of the natural ones. Another case in the point is the immense popularity of the American diamonds that are actually glass, but cut and polished in a way to give you the illusion of real diamond, and you get this sheen and shine in half the price of the real diamond. Thus the imitation jewelries become the flawless replicas of those exquisite pieces of Tiffany or Cartier that give a definitive lift to your all round persona, but you don’t have to break the bank to get that killer look.

23. Lac jewelry, also known as lacquer jewelry, originated in Rajasthan and has gained considerable popularity in India today. The process of making lac jewelry is complex. The bangles of lac consist of an inner-core that has a covering of thin layer of superior quality lac. Core lac, when mixed with a material similar to white clay, strengthens the bangle. The heating, mixing, kneading, and hammer pounding of the parched ingredients takes place repeatedly and dough like mass is formed.  LAC JEWELLERY

24. Once this mass is heated, it is shaped further and the expansion of the lac takes place in lieu of bargained diameter. This results in thickening of bangle. Further, a tool (flat-shaped) is used to roll the bangle across the flat surface, which gives it a proper thickness. The shaping is done by suppressing the length of lac into grooves (colored) on every side of the mould. The lac takes the shape of the groove into which it is forced. This process, which requires great precision, produces the most beautiful pieces of jewelry. LAC JEWELLERY

25. KUNDAN JEWELRY

26. KUNDAN JEWELRY Kundan jewelry does not have a very high gold content since it is more about the stones. First, hand-beaten sheets of gold that are very fine are taken to form the frame. At the same time, gold sheets are made into cup-like shapes meant to hold the stones. This procedure is known as Ghaat. Following this, the cup-like shapes are filled with lac . This is to set the glass or gemstones being used in the piece. This step is known as Paadh.  

27. The insertion of the stones is done using a hot coal. The lac is covered by a very thin film of gold that is inserted using a very small stick in order to add gloss to the piece by reflecting light and adding a certain shine to the glass or gemstone being used. This is the Khudai stage of the procedure. Certain types of Kundan jewelry have elaborate designs on the back of the frame as well. This is done using enamel of different colours, a process famously known as Meenakari. Finally the frame and the gold foils holding the stones are welded or soldered together. We have now come to the Pakai part of the process. As a final step, the jewelry is washed to remove the dark spots caused by the soldering. KUNDAN JEWELRY

28. Vintage Jewelry Vintage jewelry is a type of jewelry that highlights the lifestyle of an particular era. Victorian Era Mid-19 th century diamond and enamel bangle owned by Tsar Nicholas I

29. Tribal Jewelry

30. Tribal Jewelry Tribal jewelry is rich in India, which has recently come in trend. It gives ethnic charm to the look. It holds a distinct rustic charm. Each tribe has kept its unique style of jewelry intact even now. Tribal jewelry are made of many materials such as wood, clay, beads, ivory, bone, shells, grass, crude metals. Some examples of tribal jewelry styles in different I ndian states are: Madhya Pradesh:- Tribes of bastar. They use ornaments made of grass, natural beads and cane. Rajasthan:- Banjara tribes. Colorful and weighty ornaments, embossed with coins, shells, beads and metallic mesh which gives it a distinguish look.

31. Chattisgarh:- Hill maria tribes. They use of fine drawn copper wires, brass and iron (now, gold and silver) with natural seed, bone or wood embellishments to craft one of a kind fillets, collars, laces, square anklets and much more. Bihar:- Santhal tribes. Filigree motif earrings, karidhanis (worn around waist) and chudha bangles of Santhal. Maharashtra:- Halba tribes. They use metals like gold, silver, brass and aluminum to create beautiful braids, khinwas (for ear piercing's). West Bengal:- Tribes of maukhali. Bengali tikli ( worn on forehead), kaan (earrings), chik (gold choker). These ornaments are made of gold, silver, precious stones as well as wooden beads.