Dyeing A method of giving color to textiles using coloring agents called dyes.
Dyeing is the application of dyes or pigments on textile materials such as fibers . Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular chemical material.
The primary source of dye , historically, has been nature, with the dyes being extracted from animals or plants. Since the mid-19th century, however, humans have produced artificial dyes. to achieve a broader range of colors and to render the dyes more stable to washing and general use.
principle Dye molecules are fixed to the fiber by absorption, diffusion, or bonding with temperature and time being key controlling factors.
The bond between dye molecule and fiber may be strong or weak, depending on the dye used. Dyeing and printing are different applications; in printing color is applied to a localized area with desired patterns and in dyeing it is applied to the entire textile
Selection of dyes Selection of the appropriate dye is important because any given dye is not applicable on every type of fiber . Furthermore, resistance to washing, rubbing and light differ among dyes. The choice of dye depends on the objective in dyeing and which material is to be dyed
Materials and Equipment Fabric Suitable fabrics include cotton, silk, and wool. Synthetic fabrics (nylon, ployester , acrylics) will not take a dye, so cannot be used.
String , twine, cord, thread, and elastic bands can be used as binders. The finer the cord, the more lacy and delicate lines are produced. Dyes Generally for bril1iant colors use one package dye to four cups boiling water and add one
teaspoon . Newspapers (to protect the floor or work surface) Rubber gloves Wear old clothes, an old apron., or large garbage bag to protect clothes. Rags (for cleaning up ) Chemicals
Working area Pen or pencil Bucket Heat sorce (stove) Scissor Table Water
Methods General Notes Bindings must be wrapped and tied TIGHTLY to get good color variations. Fabric may be rinsed under cold water after dyeing. This gives a more hazy effect than unrinsed work. When dyeing with two or more colors , fabric may be dyed one color , then dried, then dyed
Dipping into Dye: A quick dip into the dyebath means the dye has less time to penetrate and you get bigger white and light areas. A longer time in the dye (3 or 4 minutes) allows dye to penetrate more so you get more dark areas and less white and light areas. Lines from crisscross bindings are less noticeable in a longer dip than in a quick dunk. Dip small areas into the dye at one time or the background color will be splotchy from overcrowding
Binding Methods Spot Technique Plan carefully where they are to go because the spots themselves aren't too exciting. Pick up tiny piece of fabric with needle. Wrap sewing thread around directly below needle. Tie tight. Remove needle. Dip in dye. Remove thread.
Circle Technique Pick up centre of circle and smooth folds formed from it. Bind, dye, untie, dry. Radius of the circle is determined by the distance from the point to the
bottom of the bindings. Square Technique Fold fabric lengthwise through centre. Fold crosswise. Bind, dye, untie, dry.
Marbling Makes a beautifully hazy background for other media such as stitchery and block printing. Squash fabric up into a ball. Bind in all directions until it is fairly hard. Dip in dye, remove, untie, dry. For second and/or third color , repeat bunching and binding, trying to get cloth not already colored close to the surface.
Lines of Stripes fold fabric lengthwise, crosswise, or diagonally. Bind, dye, untie, dry
Ruching Fold fabric along centre of stripe. Place a line of machine stitching below fold, forming a casing. only large enough to slip a ruler or piece of wood through. Slip casing over wood and gather all the fabric up at one end of the stick. Bind and dye. Remove binding and machine stitching (and the ruler!).
Little Boxes Accuracy in folding is most important. Fold fabric once in direction of stripe. Accordion pleat at right angles to the first fold. Pleat in opposite direction to pleats just made. Bind and dye. Open unbound ends during dyeing to let dye reach inner folds.
Little Boxes Accuracy in folding is most important. Fold fabric once in direction of stripe. Accordion pleat at right angles to the first fold. Pleat in opposite direction to pleats just made. Bind and dye. Open unbound ends during dyeing to let dye reach inner folds.
Lattice Accordion pleat in one direction. Bind at even spaces, and dye; untie and dry. Accordion pleat in opposite direction. Bind in the same way, dye, untie, dry. Beauty of this method is its accuracy
Knotting Use fine fabric for these. Burlap and other heavy fabrics won't tie well. Roll or fold up fabric into a string, then tie it into knots and dye. An alternate method is to tie a thick rope into knots and roll or fold cloth around it. Bind to the rope and dye.
Rope Technique Fabric may be rolled, twisted, or bunched into a rope. Add bindings, dye, untie, let dry
Overstitching Fold fabric where design is to be. Taking deep stitches into the fabric, sew over top of the folds. Draw thread so tightly that it straightens out and the fold coils around it. Dip in dye; remove thread, let dry.
Colorfast implies that the color in a fabric will not fade or change with normal use and care.
Textile products are dyed at the following stages: Fiber (Excellent) Yarn (Best) Piece (Better) Garment (Good)
Fiber Dyeing Involves dyeing the fibers before they are spun into yarns. Advantages include: Good colorfastness Uniform color throughout fiber Clear, rich colors
Fiber Dyeing
Yarn Dyeing Involves dyeing the yarns before weaving or knitting them into fabric. Advantages include: Good color absorption
Fabric Examples include: Plaids Checks Stripes
Yarn Dyeing
Piece Dyeing Involves dyeing the fabric after it is woven or knitted. Advantages include: Most common dyeing method Lease expensive Very fast
Disadvantages include: Mostly solid colors Less dye penetration into the fibers and yarns
Garment Dyeing Involves dyeing the garments to fill retail orders for requested colors. Advantages include: This method is gaining in popularity. Garment producers can wait and dye only the colors ordered by stores.
Garment Dyeing
Fabric Printing A process for adding color, pattern or design to the surface of fabric. It is done on the right side of the fabric with the wrong side being unprinted or much lighter than the right side.
Roller Printing Color for the design is applied to fabric as it goes through a series of rollers. Rollers are engraved (carved) with the design to be printed. Each color has a different roller.
Advantages include: Simple and fast Inexpensive Most common printing method
Roller Printing
Screen Printing Done on flat screen frames and is similar to stenciling. Each color has its own screen.
Advantages include: Good for large designs Better quality designs than roller printing method
Disadvantages include: Slow printing method
Screen Printing by Hand
Screen Printing by Machine
Rotary Screen Printing A combination of roller and screen printing. Dye is transferred through screens that roll over the fabric.
Advantages include: Can print large designs Accurate and fast This method is gaining in popularity.
Rotary Screen Printing
Heat Transfer Printing The desired dyes and patterns are placed onto paper using a rotary screen printer. The paper is placed on the fabric and with heat and pressure the colors and patterns are transferred to the fabric.
T-shirts are printed using this method. Like a “temporary tattoo” for fabric
Heat Transfer Printing
Digital Printing The newest method of fabric printing. It is like ink-jet printing with a computer but rolls the fabric through an extra-wide printer. Droplets of color are “spit” onto the fabric.
Advantages include: Fast Inexpensive Environmentally safe Can print small or large amounts of fabric at the same time