Woven fabrics types By Ghulam Mustafa 13TE89

Woven fabrics types By Ghulam Mustafa 13TE89

1. Woven Fabrics
For applications where more than one fibre orientation is required, a fabric combining 0° and 90° fibre
orientations is useful.
Woven fabrics are produced by the interlacing of warp (0°) fibres and weft (90°) fibres in a regular pattern or
weave style. The fabric's integrity is maintained by the mechanical interlocking of the fibres. Drape (the ability
of a fabric to conform to a complex surface), surface smoothness and stability of a fabric are controlled
primarily by the weave style. The following is a description of some of the more commonly found weave styles:
Plain

Each warp fibre passes alternately under and over each weft fibre. The fabric is symmetrical, with good stability
and reasonable porosity. However, it is the most difficult of the weaves to drape, and the high level of fibre
crimp imparts relatively low mechanical properties compared with the other weave styles. With large fibres
(high tex) this weave style gives excessive crimp and therefore it tends not to be used for very heavy fabrics.

Twill

One or more warp fibres alternately weave over and under two or more weft fibres in a regular repeated
manner. This produces the visual effect of a straight or broken diagonal 'rib' to the fabric. Superior wet out and
drape is seen in the twill weave over the plain weave with only a small reduction in stability. With reduced
crimp, the fabric also has a smoother surface and slightly higher mechanical properties.

Satin

Satin weaves are fundamentally twill weaves modified to produce fewer intersections of warp and weft. The
‘harness’ number used in the designation (typically 4, 5 and 8) is the total number of fibres crossed and passed

2. under, before the fibre repeats the pattern. A ‘crowsfoot’ weave is a form of satin weave with a different stagger
in the re-peat pattern. Satin weaves are very flat, have good wet out and a high degree of drape. The low crimp
gives good mechanical properties. Satin weaves allow fibres to be woven in the closest proximity and can
produce fabrics with a close ‘tight’ weave. However, the style’s low stability and asymmetry needs to be
considered. The asymmetry causes one face of the fabric to have fibre running predominantly in the warp
direction while the other face has fibres running predominantly in the weft direction. Care must be taken in
assembling multiple layers of these fabrics to ensure that stresses are not built into the component through this
asymmetric effect.

Basket

Basket weave is fundamentally the same as plain weave except that two or more warp fibres alternately
interlace with two or more weft fibres. An arrangement of two warps crossing two wefts is designated 2x2
basket, but the arrangement of fibre need not be symmetrical. Therefore it is possible to have 8x2, 5x4, etc.
Basket weave is flatter, and, through less crimp, stronger than a plain weave, but less stable. It must be used
on heavy weight fabrics made with thick (high tex) fibres to avoid excessive crimping.

Leno

Leno weave improves the stability in ‘open’ fabrics which have a low fibre count. A form of plain weave in which
adjacent warp fibres are twisted around consecutive weft fibres to form a spiral pair, effectively ‘locking’ each
weft in place. Fabrics in leno weave are normally used in con-junction with other weave styles because if used
alone their openness could not produce an effective composite component.

3. Mock Leno

A version of plain weave in which occasional warp fibres, at regular intervals but usually several fibres apart,
deviate from the alternate under-over interlacing and instead interlace every two or more fibres. This happens
with similar frequency in the weft direction, and the overall effect is a fabric with increased thickness, rougher
surface, and additional porosity.


Woven Fabric Types
Buckram
It is a stiff coated fabric made from a light weight loosely woven fabric, impregnated
with adhesives and fillers. This fabric is used as interfacing so as to provide support
and shape rentention to necklines, collars, belts, cuffs, waist bands, button closures
etc in garments. They are also used as reinforcements for hand bags and other
articles.
Cambric
Cambric a light weight fabric woven in plain weave and produced with a stiff finish. It
is suitable for women's dresses and children's dresses that require crispness.
Casement
Casement is a medium weight cotton fabric made of closesly packed thick warp
yarns. Generally it is used for curtains, tablelinen, upholstery and rarely used for
dresses.
Cheese Cloth

4. It is popular light weight sheer fabric having open weave. It has a low count fabric
consisting of carded yarns. Originally it was used for wrapping cheese or meat and
hence the name. It is neither strong nor durable. It is finished in a variety of ways
that attract the consumer. It is used not only for women's and children's dresses but
also for drapery fabrics. Due to its open structure, it does not require much ironing.
Chiffon
Chiffon fabrics are sheer, light weight fabrics made of hard twisted yarns. Originally
these are made in silk fabrics but today they are made from rayon or polyester. They
are used for sarees and women's evening wear. The fabrics encounter with the
problem of shrinkage.
Chintz
Chintz is a medium weight, plain woven cotton yarn. It is often given a glazed finish
which may be temporary or semi permanent glazed chintz are available in solid
colour as well as printed with floral prints. These are often made from blends of
cotton and polyester or rayon. They are used for skits, dresses, blouses, pyjamas,
aprons and draperies.
Corduroy
It is a cut pile fabric available in solid colours. The cut pile fibres are seen in the form
of ribs on the surface. It is mainly used for pants, jeans and shirts.
Crepe
A silk fabric is originally characterised by a crinkle, puckered surface formed by
highly twisted yarns in the warp or weft or both. By using ordinary yarns similar
crepe effects can also be produced. Synthetic fabrics also impart crepe effect finish.
It is used for sarees, shirts, women and children's dresses.
Denim

5. It was traditionally a yarn dyed, warp faced cotton twill fabric. Warp is usually
coloured (mostly blue, maroon, green and brown) and weft is white. This fabric is
made of two weights for sports wear and overalls. It's use as jeans has made it very
popular and so the nature of denim is also changed to suit the trend. It is often
napped, printed and made with stretch yarn.
Drill
It is a warp faced twill woven fabric. It has a stiff finish. Originally it was produced in
white and now it is available in solid colours. It is mairly used for pants, knickers and
uniforms.
Flannel
Flannel is a woollen fabric woven in plain or twill weave having characteristic soft
handle. It looks like a bulky fabric due to the milling that is usually done to this fabric.
Flannel fabric is used for suits and pants and infacnt's clothing.
This fabric is popular as cleaning fabric due to its extreme softness. This is also
used to protect children from cold atmosphere.
Gabardine
Gabardine is a closely woven, clear finished warp faced twill fabric. It contains more
number of warp yarns than weft yearns and also more durable. It is usually woven in
2/1 or 2/2 twill and has a raised diagonal twill effect on the right side. It largely used
for rain coats, suitings and sports wear.
Georgette
Georgette is a sheer light weight fabric, woven in plain weave. It has a characteristic
rough texture produced by hard twisted ply, yarns both in warp and weft. Originally it
was made in silk, but today it is produced in rayon and polyester too.
It's mainly suitable for women's evening wear.

6. Kashmir Silk
Kashmir silk is a silk fabric produced in plain weave and is either embroidered or
printed. The motifs used are characteristic of Kashmir. It is used for shirts, women's
wear and sarees. Kashmir shawls are woven in twill weave and is usually
embroidered with traditional Kashmiri embroidery.
Khadi
Khadi is a term used to a wide variety of fabics that are hand spun and hand woven.
They are produced in mainly one cotton fibre, blends of two or more fibres. They are
known for durability, and simplicity. The fabrics can be suitings dhoties overalls and
household textiles.
Lawn
Lawn is a fine sheet, light weight, crisp fabric either made in cotton or linen. Various
finishes are given to this fabric, in which the fabric is called by the name of the finish.
It is mainly used as lining in dress.
Mulmul
It is an Indian term generally applied to fine cotton fabric slightly heavier, than
muslin. These are often printed fabrics. They find use as sarees.
Muslin
Muslin is a light weight open cloth of plain weave. It may be used as grey or
bleached and dyed. It is used as household textiles and dress materials.
Organdy
Originally it is a lawn fabric which is given a stiff finish. Acid is used for this finish to
make the fabric transparent and stiff. It is mainly used for women's wear.
Poplin

7. Poplin is a medium weight, cotton fabric hving a fine weft rib. it is generally used for
shirting, dresses and upholstery.
Sheeting
These are primarily used for bed coverings. They are medium weight, closely woven
fabrics woven eigther in plain or twin weave. Sheeting fabrics are made in different
widths. High quality cotton sheetings are made in plain weve with a width of 64" x
58" and in twill weave with a width of 60"x72".
Taffeta
Taffeta is a smooth, crisp, transparent fabric having a fine rib. Originally it is made
with silk fibres but now it is also made in rayon. It has a characteristic finish which
produces crispness. It is used as women's evening wear.
Tissue
It is a fine fabric either made in silk or man made fibre. They are characteristically
interwoven with gold or silver threads. It is produced in rich colours and they are
used as women's dress material, sarees etc.
Velvet
It is a warp cut pile fabric, originally made from silk. It is also produced in Rayon.
The dense cut pile makes it very soft and lustrous. It is used as dress materials for
women and children. It is also produced with special high twisted yarns which are
single or ply yarns. Based on the yarns used and twist given, they are named as
semi violes (single yarns1x1) full voiles. (ply yarns 2x2) or half voile (double in warp
and single in weft 2x1).

8. Pongee
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Pongee is a soft thin woven cloth. In the early 20th century, pongee was an important export
from China to the United States. Pongee is still woven in silk by many mills across China,
especially along the banks of the Yangtze at mills in Sichuan, Anhui, Zhejiang and Jiangsu
provinces. . Generally it varies in weight from 36 to about 50gm/sq m. In lighter variants, it is
called Paj. It is used as a blouse weight or lining silk.

Camlet
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Camlet, also commonly known as camelot or camblet, is a woven fabric that might have
originally been made of camel or goat's hair, later chiefly of goat's hair and silk, or of wool and
cotton.
[1]
The original form of this cloth was very valuable; the term later came to be applied to
imitations of the original eastern fabric.
[2]

In the 18th century, England, France, Holland, and Flanders were the chief places of its
manufacture; Brussels exceeded them all in the beauty and quality of its camlets, followed by
England.
[3]

A variety of terms have been used for camlet in different forms:
 Figured camlets are of one color, on which are stamped various figures, flowers, foliages,
etc. The figures were applied with hot irons, passed together with the fabric, under a
press. In the 18th century, these were chiefly brought from Amiens and Flanders. In
antiquity, figured camlets were much more sought after than in modern times.
 Water camlets, after weaving, received a certain preparation with water; and were
afterwards passed under a hot press, giving them a smoothness and lustre.
[3]

 Waved camlets feature impressed waves, as on tabbies.
[3]

Manufacturers of camlets had to take care not to introduce any unnecessary pleats in the fabric,
as they were almost impossible to undo. This difficulty was so notorious, that a proverb existed,
stating that someone "is like a camlet—he has taken his pleat."
[3]

9. voile
Voile is a soft, sheer fabric, usually made of 100% cotton or cotton blends including linen or
polyester. The term comes from French, and means veil. Because of its light weight, the fabric is
mostly used in soft furnishing. In hot countries, voile is used as window treatments and mosquito
nets. When used as curtain material, voile is similar to net curtains.
Voiles are available in a range of patterns and colours (unlike net curtains, which are generally
white or off-white). Because of their semitransparent quality, voile curtains are made using
specially manufactured heading tape that is less easily noticeable through the fabric. Voile fabric
is also used in dress-making, either in multiple layers or laid over a second material. Voile is
very similar to chiffon, which is also used in dress-making
Dazzle
Dazzle is a type of polyester fabric that is widely used in making clothes like basketball
uniforms, football uniforms, rugby ball uniforms and even casual clothing because it absorbs
moisture quickly. It is a lightweight fabric that allows air to circulate easily around the body.
Dazzle is becoming increasingly popular in sports uniforms and even casual clothing.
Dazzle fabric is distinguished by the pattern of tiny holes in the weave of the material. Often
made of synthetic fibers as well as cotton/synthetic blends, dazzle wear is usually sleek and
shiny. To the touch, dazzle is soft and somewhat silky, although it is far more sturdy than silk.
Dazzle fabric is also used in some other applications. For example, baby carriages and car seats
are sometimes lined with dazzle fabric. Some avant-garde decorators have even incorporated
dazzle fabric into window treatments such as swags and drapery panels.
Dazzle fabric does not stain very easily. Laundering a garment that is made of dazzle fabric on
the normal cycle is usually sufficient to keep the garment in top condition. Air-drying or a few
minutes in a dryer will usually produce a crisp and wrinkle free look. Ironing is not required
because dazzle fabric is virtually wrinkle free. Dazzle fabric holds its shape very well and
requires only basic maintenance.
Compared to other fabrics, dazzle is even more durable than denim because of the tightly woven
polyester fibers, which make it nearly impossible to tear.

10. Beta cloth
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Beta cloth is a type of fireproof silica fiber cloth used in the manufacture of Apollo/Skylab A7L
space suits, the Apollo Thermal Micrometeoroid Garment, and in other specialized applications.
Beta cloth consists of fine woven silica fiber, similar to fiberglass. The resulting fabric will not
burn, and will melt only at temperatures exceeding 650 °C. To reduce its tendency to crease or
tear when manipulated, and to increase durability, the fibers are coated with Teflon.
It was implemented in NASA space suits after the deadly 1967 Apollo 1 launch pad fire, in
which the astronauts' nylon suits burned through. After the fire, NASA demanded any potentially
flammable materials were to be removed from both the spacecraft and space suits. However they
were challenged as to what they would replace it with and scoured the country in search of a
material. Beta cloth was developed by a Manned Spacecraft Center team led by Frederick S.
Dawn and including Matthew I. Radnofsky working with the Owens-Corning and DuPont
companies.
Corduroy
Corduroy is a textile composed of twisted fibers that, when woven, lie parallel (similar to twill)
to one another to form the cloth's distinct pattern, a "cord." Modern corduroy is most commonly
composed of tufted cords, sometimes exhibiting a channel (bare to the base fabric) between the
tufts. Corduroy is, in essence, a ridged form of velvet.
The fabric looks as if it is made from multiple cords laid parallel to each other and then stitched
together. The interpretation of the word as corde du roi (from French, the cord of the King) is a
folk etymology.
[1][2]

As a fabric, corduroy is considered a durable cloth. Corduroy is found in the construction of
trousers, jackets and shirts. The width of the cord is commonly referred to as the size of the
"wale" (i.e. the number of ridges per inch).
[3]
The lower the "wale" number, the thicker the width
of the wale (e.g., 4-wale is much thicker than 11-wale). Corduroy’s wale count per inch can vary
from 1.5 to 21, although the traditional standard falls somewhere between 10 and 12. Wide wale
is more commonly used in trousers and furniture upholstery (primarily couches); medium,
narrow, and fine wale fabrics are usually found in garments worn above the waist.
Corduroy is made by weaving extra sets of fiber into the base fabric to form vertical ridges called
wales. The wales are built so that clear lines can be seen when they are cut into pile. The primary
types of corduroy are:
 Standard wale: 11 wales/inch, and available in many colours

11.  Pincord/pinwale/needlecord: Pincord is the finest cord around with a count at the upper
end of the spectrum (above 16)
 Pigment dyed/printed corduroy: The process of colouring or printing corduroy with
pigment dyes. The dye is applied to the surface of the fabric, then the garment is cut and
sewn. When washed during the final phase of the manufacturing process, the pigment dye
washes out in an irregular way, creating a vintage look. The colour of each garment
becomes softer with each washing, and there is a subtle color variation from one to the
next. No two are alike.
Ottoman (textile)
Ottoman is a fabric with a pronounced ribbed or corded effect, often made of silk or a mixture
of cotton and other silk like yarns. It is mostly used for formal dress and in particular, legal dress
(such as QC gowns) and academic dress (mostly for hoods).
Ottoman made of pure silk is very expensive so artificial silk is used instead to create a cheaper
alternative.
Grosgrain is similar to Ottoman but it is thinner and lighter than Ottoman and is used mostly for
ribbons.
Cheviot (cloth)
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Cheviot, woollen fabric made originally from the wool of Cheviot sheep and now also made
from other types of wool or from blends of wool and man-made fibres in plain or various twill
weaves.
Cheviot wool possesses good spinning qualities, since the fibre is fine, soft, and pliable.
Cheviot fabric has a crispness of texture similar to serge but is slightly rougher and heavier.
Cheviot fabric may be produced either from woollen or worsted yarns according to the character,
texture, and feel desired in the finished fabric. Some qualities are produced from crossbred
worsted yarns adapted for furnishing crispness.
Cheviot suitings for sportswear are made from harder spun worsted yarns, and some are also
made from botany worsted.
Cheviot shirting is a stout, twilled, cotton fabric woven with small geometrical patterns or with
warp stripes and bleached weft.
[1]