284106898-Apparel-Quality-Management.ppt

AMT

1. Apparel Quality ManagementApparel Quality Management
Presentation on :
Quality Manual of
Arvind Mills Ltd., Denim Division, Mysore Road, India
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PRESENTED TO :
MS. PRIYADARSHINI
PRESENTED BY :
K.DIVYA PRAKAASH(08)
MD. SHAD ANWAR(09)
DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, SEMESTER - V

2. IntroductionIntroduction
It is the objective of any manufacturer to offer his
customers first quality merchandise. The purpose of the
quality control program is to assist manufacturers in meeting
their high standards. In addition quality control program can
help them in their operations quality control program, spot and
reject Defective items and more importantly pinpoint
production operations that need special attention thereby
reducing the future production failures. This type of quality
control provides a basis for management decisions in the plant.
Quality is:
Fit for use
Conformance to requirements
When customer is satisfied and encouraged to buy When it is
defect free
When it has a long life
When it has good wear ability and wash ability
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3. Quality Control SystemsQuality Control Systems
Quality control systems of the various
department within the industry are enlisted
Quality Control in Fabric Inspection
Quality Control in the Testing Laboratory
Quality Control in Cutting Room
Quality Control in Sewing Room
Quality Control in Washing
Quality Control in Finishing
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4. 1.FABRIC INSPECTION1.FABRIC INSPECTION
Objective:
- To identify and mark fabric faults on the fabric
- Decision to cut the fabric lot or not
Guidelines for Inspection:
- As soon as the fabric reaches the store, fabric should be
inspected. Fabric should be stored in a clean moisture
free environment
- A swatch of dimension as specified by the laboratory has
to be submitted to the laboratory as soon as the fabric
arrives so that fabric is checked for performance
standards as per the requirements creased productivity
of the cutting department.
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5. In textile and garment trade extensively accepted system of inspection is
THE FOUR POINT SYSTEM.
◦This system is very easy to understand and implement.
◦Standards obtained / achieved in this system have proved as acceptable in garment
manufacturing.
Hence this system is used for fabric checking :
i.Usually we have to check 10% of the total fabric received.
ii.In case this inspection passes we can accept the whole lot of fabric
iii.Whenever the first 10 % of the fabric gets failed, we have to inspect entire
quantity and then take a final decision on accepting or rejecting a fabric.
iv.However, wherever the requirement of fabric for an order quantity is less than
1000 meters, in such cases entire quantity of fabric should be used.

FOUR POINT SYSTEMFOUR POINT SYSTEM
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6. Woven Fabric Defects:
◦Drawback
◦Dropped Pick
◦End out
◦Fly
◦Harness Break down
◦Knots
◦Mixed End
◦Mixed Filling
◦Slubs
◦Smash
◦Soiled Filling or End
◦Stop Mark
◦Thin place
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7. 2.LABORATORY2.LABORATORY
No sooner than the fabric is received at ware house,
one meter length from every fabric role received will
be sent to Laboratory for finding Dimensional Changes
due to Style wash & and shades evolved during Style
Wash.
Fabric Content and Weight are verified and then
following tests are conducted
Fabric package test
Garment package test
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8. FABRIC PACKAGE TESTFABRIC PACKAGE TEST
Skew
Tensile Strength
Tearing Strength
Colour Fastness to Perspiration
Colour Fastness to Crocking
Colour Fastness to Water
Fabric Weight
pH ( Power of Hydrogen ) using pH meter
Stretch & Recovery ( Only for Stretch Fabric )
Construction ( Visual)
Yarn Size
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9. GARMENT PACKAGE TESTGARMENT PACKAGE TEST
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering.
Appearance after Laundering
Tensile Strength
Attachment Strength
Seam Properties
Tearing Strength
CF to Accelerated Laundering
CF to crocking
Fabric Weight
Colour Fastness to Perspiration
Colour fastness to Water
Fibre Identification
pH Extract
Stretch & Recovery ( Only for Stretch Fabric )
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10. 3.CUT ROOM QUALITY CHECK
Good Sewing begins with good cutting. Bad cutting will
result in sewing defects, excessive repairs and slowed
production. The Quality Control Inspector's
responsibilities include assisting the Cut Room Manager
for taking correct steps and corrective measures if
required.
Requirements
PO File with Tech Pack, before and wash specs, Fabric
shade band, shrinkage details, Marker / Pattern details,
Trim Cards QA Specifications, Approved sample, Visual
Quality standards, PP meeting notes etc; are to be there
in the section. Display the items those are specified, on
the display board. Before the spreading of the fabric, it
should be relaxed ( Especially Stretch fabric ) and report
to be maintained.
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11. SPREADING:
 
01. TABLE MARK:
The Inspector should check for these marks as the table is marked off. Allow 1/4" tolerance for marking according to the
marker splices marked by the tracer.
02. Marker Placement :
Marker should be placed on the spread with front edge on the marker edge:( 1/8" variance and 1/2" allowance on the end
placement.)
 
03. Edging:
After completion of the spread, check to see that straight edge from the marker line is within 1/4" variance ( Wide or
Narrow )
04.Ends:
After completion of the spread check , see that plies do not extend closer than 1/2" nor more than 1" away from the
marked end of the spread.
05.Splices:
After completion of the spread, check splice hem laps to see that both plies extend past the marked splice by no less
than 1/2" and no more than 11/2".
06.Narrow Goods:
After completion of the spread, check the far edge of the spread to see that all plies extend beyond the marker line.
07.Leaning:
After completion of spread, check for leaning by standing a rule on the straight edge of the spread. Check at least at
three different places Tolerance is 1/4"
08.Tension:
Tension must be checked during spreading. This is very important especially on knit fabrics. Tension can be recognised
by the biased appearance of goods with a reasonable amount of tolerance.
09.Count:
Count must be checked after completion of spreading and before cutting. count must be made of all plies at both ends.
10.Remnants:
Check to see that remnants are no longer than the shortest splice.
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12. CUTTING:
 
01. Miscut:
Miscut measures the ability of the cutter to split the line. Tolerance
1/8"
 
02. Matching Plies:
Check top ply with the bottom ply. Tolerance 1/8"
 
03. Rugged Cutting:
This is a judgement defect. It is more important on critical parts. If the
part has to be recut, it is a defect.
 
04. Notches:
Check the notch location by placing the pattern over the top ply.
Tolerance 1/8"
 
05. Check Pattern:
Compare the pattern to marker paper to ensure that the marker is
correct
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13. FUSING
 
Before starting the fusing, it is necessary that Parameters under
which parts are to be fused should be decided by which the fusing
standards are obtained. The Standard should usually be given by the
interlining supplier or in few cases buyer will suggest the standard as
well as the type of interlining to be used. Suggested standard should
be displayed near the fusing machine with all the details.
-Setting the Machine
-Interlining Compatibility
-Fusing Shrinkage
-Regular Quality Check
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14. 4.QUALITY IN SEWING FLOOR
Responsibility of Quality Assurance
Department in SEWING FLOOR can be
divided in to three stages
They are;
Pre Production Stage
In Line &
End Line
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15. Pre Production:
It is nothing but preparing your self for the new style to be sewn in
the line /in the sewing floor.
Know the Style:
It is the responsibility of the roving QA that he studies the style completely
especially with reference to fabric, trims, construction / required needle
work.
Set the line for Production:
After the discussion / pre production meeting with the concerned people of
the line, it is the turn of the IE and Line Technician along with the Supervisor
to work out machine lay out and line plan so that manufacturing of the
garments are made easy to yield maximum production with QUALITY.
Display :
i.Relevant details such as
ii.Line Plan / Machine Layout
iii.Tec pack / Construction details of the style
iv.Measurement Chart
v.Trim Card
vi.Approved Standard duly signed by QAM etc; are to be displayed at the end
table of the sewing line besides weekly and monthly Quality performance of
the particular sewing line. 15

16. In Line SewingIn Line Sewing
Before starting the actual sewing, each operator has to
check the SPI of his machine.
At the time of starting of a new style, it is necessary that
QA discusses with IE and batch technician about the
machine layout, line plan and sequence of operations.
Every operator before the start of sewing of the
particular part/operation, shall stitch a mock in the same
fabric and this mock shall be reviewed by QA as well as
the line supervisor.
Thus, the Roving QA has to move machine by machine as
the stitching operation continues till the complete
finished FIRST GARMENT of the style comes out of the
line. QA and Supervisor shall review this FIRST
GARMENT that has come out for CONSTRUCTION
and MEASUREMENT.
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17. End Line:End Line:
Stitched garments from the sewing line are received at
END TABLE and these garments are subjected for
100% inspection by Quality Inspector at END Table.
For VISUAL, CONSTRUCTION and KEY
MEASUREMENTS.  
Passed garments at this stage are AUDITED at 2.5 AQL
and on passing, moved to WASHING SECTION.
Quality Failed Garments shall be returned to sewing
section for rectification and return.
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18. 5.Quality Control System in 5.Quality Control System in
WashingWashing
From Sewing Section, garments are sent to
Laundry for further processing. In
Denims / Jeans, wash process is an integral
part of Garments.
 In laundry, wash process is divided in to
two parts. They are Dry Process and Wet
Process.
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19. DRY PROCESS:
Laser Printing
Resin Treatment
Whiskering (Moulding)
•Laser Printing
Laser Printing is an electrostatic digital printing process that
rapidly produces high quality text and graphics by passing
laser beam over a charged drum to define a differently
charged image. The Quality Checks are :
Size of the Print
Intensity of the Print
Print Placement
Back ground shade / intensity
 
Hand Sanding
Tacking / Tying
PP Spray
Damages /
Destruction
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20. Resin Treatment
Resin Treatment gives value addition to garments. We have been talking
about Resin and its use in Denim Garments Industry to create unique
and vintage looks. This adds value to Denim Garments and improves
its salebility in the market. During the process points of check are:
- Concentration of Resin Solution
( Both solute and solvent should be taken exactly as per the given
standard )
( Mixing to be made by a stirring machine )
- Quantity that is to be sprayed on a garment
- Size of Inflated Balloon on which the garments are hung
- Garment Rotation Time
- Curing Time
 
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21. Whiskering:
On Denims, whiskers / moulds / moustaches / chevrons are
nothing but the worn out lines /impressions generated by
natural wearing on hips and thigh area. There are many
designs & patterns available for this purpose. The activity
is being carried out manually with the help of sharp edge
emery paper rolled and pasted on fine wooden stick.
Quality Check Points during this process are
 
1) Size wise verification of pattern / mould with respect to
garment size
  2) Position and placement
  3) Intensity of the whiskering carried out
 
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22. Hand Scraping / Sanding:
Hand Sanding is generally being done in rigid form of
garments to get distress look. Locations of scrapping
can be front, thigh and back seat or it can be overall /
global application as per standard.
Process check points of Hand Sanding are:
 
1)Selection of right numbered paper depending on
the
fabric strength and required intensity
2)Intensity
3)Placement
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23. Tacking / Tying:
It is a process which is being done by swift tag machines with the
help plastic or nylon tag pins on rigid form of garment to get very
heavy contrast ( rigid & washed ) on waist band , bottom hem back
pocket and front pocket corners etc;. After washing completely
nylon tag must be removed before finishing.
Check points during the process are
 1) Tagging placement.
 
2) Length of tag pin &
 
3) Width of folding where tagged
 
 
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24. PP Spray:
PP Spray is being done on denim garments to achieve
local abraded area to appear whiter than background
indigo colour shade. Check points which need to be
followed are :
  1) Spray Gun Pressure
  2) Width / Area of spray
3) Flow & way of spraying
•Damages / Destruction: 
This is one of the most popular distressing effects
currently used. Destruction is an art which makes
denim look unique and used. Point of check are :
  1)Size of the damage
  2)Position and place of destruction

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25. QUALITY CONTROL DURING WET PROCESS
Development
Sampling
Bulk
DEVELOPMENT
It is advisable that the QA Department involve themselves right from the
Development Stage and during the development, it is necessary that following
factors are worked out and the record is maintained in a Development Register.
 
Weight of the garment / load.
Water level / quantity of water required
Hardness of water used for the bath
pH value of water
Temperature of the bath
Timing / Duration under which bath is given to develop the sample
Type of bath ( Recipe / Chemicals used )
Quantity / Weight of chemicals use
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26. SAMPLING
During Proto sample making the standard to be
achieved is as that of the final finished garment in
Bulk Production. Therefore from the Original
Development Register, the recipe shall be
worked out to meet the Final Standard in Bulk.
Hence, in process activity for Proto shall be
tracked back to the Development.
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27. BULK WASH:
  The garments received for Bulk Wash are to be
checked / audited 100% for before wash stains,
damages, fabric defects and construction faults. If found
defective, garments are to be sent back for rectification.
It is also mandatory that washing section shall receive
the garments fabric lot / shade wise only.
In Pilot Washing, In Final Washing,
1)Shade
2)Unwanted streak marks
3)Measurements
4)Damages
1)No. of garments in the bath
2)Water level ( Quantity of water used for the
bath )
3)Hardness of water used for the bath
4)pH value of the water used for the bath
5)Temperature of the bath ( Under which the bath
shall run )
6)Timing ( Duration for which the bath should run.
and adjust the time regulator accordingly )
7)Type of bath ( Recipe / Chemicals used
8)Quantity of Chemicals used for bath
( Quantity to be weighed and then mixed with the
solvent / water before pouring in to the bath drum )
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28. 6.FINISHING DEPARTMENT6.FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PO file with Tech Pack etc; Wash
Standard, Approved Shade Garments,
Shrinkage
Details, Trim Cards, Fabric Test Report,
Garment Test Report, QA Specifications,
Measurement spec, Approved Sample,
Visual Quality Standards, PP Meeting
notes,
Packing & Folding instructions are to be
there in the section.
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29. Garment received in Finishing Section for finishing has to be
recorded in an appropriate ledger mentioning PO No.,
Buyer's name, size wise order quantity, size wise receipts,
wash type etc.
Any special instructions if available are to be displayed.
Display board should have approved Garment, Trim Cards,
Folding / Packing method, Fabric defect standards ( marked
with accepted / not accepted ), wash standards, shade bands,
Defect % as observed in finishing section. Ironing standard
to be available in the section.
Standard requirement to be explained to all Ironing
operators like method of Ironing, Temperature control,
steam usage etc;
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30. CHECKING AREA
◦Inspection and Checking area to be provided with a minimum of 1200 Lux light
level.
◦Whenever the lighting level decreases bulbs should be replaced. The table tops
should be white laminated. All relevant details as specified are to be kept at the
checking area.
VISUAL CHECK
◦All the garments are to be checked for Visual Defects related to stitching, Fabric,
Trims etc; Rejected garments during inspection are to be rectified.
MEASUREMENT CHECK
◦All the Garments to undergo measurement checks at critical points at a separate
specified area.
◦Record of a minimum of 32 garments' measurements in every style are to be
recorded on daily basis or as specified by the respective buyer.
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31. Garments passed through measurement check are to pass through
ironing section for garment pressing and folding.
GARMENT PRESSING & FOLDING:
◦In Ironing Section, Pressing Standard should be displayed on each of the Pressing
Table and Ironing operator should be explained and well educated about the
requirement of the Buyer with respect to Pressing and Folding. Neatly pressed
and folded garments then shall be sent to Packing Section.
Garment Packing:
◦Folded Garments from Ironing section shall be passed through MD Machine to
ascertain that the garments are free from Metal Contamination.
◦On receipt of the garments Packing Section shall segregate the garments as
under.
Color wise & Shade wise
 Each Shade shall be further segregated in to different sizes.
◦Then Tagging of the garments shall take place. After Tagging, garments shall be
stored /kept separately as per Color, Shade and Size.
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32. THANK THANK
YOU!!YOU!!
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