Section Section 1: Fabric Inspection 1: Fabric Inspection 4 4
PointSystem PointSystem
4 4
- -
Point
System Point System
44
PointSystem PointSystem
This standard is issued by the American society for
4
4
––
Point
System Point System
testing and materials withreference to the designation:
ASTM D5430-04
F lt d ith lt i t f1 2 3 d4 F
au
lt
s are score
d
w
ith
pena
lt
y po
i
n
t
s o
f
1
,
2
,
3
, an
d
4
according to the size and significance. Si fD f (L hi I h)
PlPi
Si
ze o
f
D
e
f
ect
(L
engt
h
i
n
I
nc
h)
P
ena
l
ty
P
o
i
nts
3 inch or less 1 Over3
butnot
over6inches
2
Over
3
but
not
over
6
inches
2
Over 6 but not over 9 inches / half width 3
Over 9 inches / Full width 4
44
PitPit
StSt
4
4
--
P
o
i
n
t
P
o
i
n
t
Sy
s
t
em
Sy
s
t
em
1. Assign no more than a total of 4 points to any one linear yard
ffbi dl fh b i fhd d
o
f
f
a
b
r
i
c, regar
dl
ess o
f
t
h
e num
b
er or s
i
ze o
f
t
h
e
d
etecte
d
individual defects.
4 4 --Point Point S
y
stem S
y
stem
2. Assi
g
n 4
p
oints to each consecutive linear
y
ard in which a
gp y
continuous running defect exceeds 9inches .
4 4 --Point Point S
y
stem S
y
stem
3
Assign4pointstoeachlinearyardoffabricwherethe
3
.
Assign
4
points
to
each
linear
yard
of
fabric
where
the
cuttable width is less than the minimum specified.
4 4 --Point Point System System
4
Assign4pointstoeachspliceorfullwidthdefect
4
.
Assign
4
points
to
each
splice
or
full
width
defect
44
Point Point
System System
Arollisgradedas
“
PASSED PASSED
”
ifthetotalpenaltypoints
4
4
--
Point
Point
System System
A
roll
is
graded
as
PASSED PASSED
if
the
total
penalty
points
do not exceed the advised point count per 100 square yards . A roll is graded as“FAILED FAILED”if the total penalty points
exceed the advised point countper 100 square yards.
The entire lot shall be “ “REJECTED” REJECTED”if the average penalty pointsexceedtheaverageshipmentpointcountper100 points
exceed
the
average
shipment
point
count
per
100
square yards.
Advised Point Count Advised Point Count per Fabric Type per Fabric Type
GroupA „
Basic
denim
(open
end
spun
/
12
-
16
oz)
„
Basic
denim
(open
end
spun
/
12
16
oz)
„Dressshirting „
Wtd
Wl
„
W
ors
t
e
d
W
oo
l
ens
„Synthetics,Polyester,Nylon,Acetate,Filament
Advised Point Count Advised Point Count per Fabric Type per Fabric Type
Group
B
Group
B
„Basicdenim(Ringspun/12-16oz), „
Li ht
iht
di
(
4
8
)
„
Li
g
ht
we
i
g
ht
d
en
i
m
(
4
-
8
oz
)
,
„Mediumweightdenim(9-12oz),Twill
„Canvas,Poplin,Oxfordshirting
„Woolenspun
„Spunrayon
„Basicknitte
d
fabric
Advised Point Advised Point Count per Fabric Type Count per Fabric Type
Group
C
Group
C
„Plainweavefabric(others) „
St t h
di
/
tth
fbi
„
St
re
t
c
h
d
en
i
m
/
s
t
re
t
c
h
f
a
b
r
i
c
„Corduroy,Velvet
„Chambray
„Silkfabrics
„Jacquard
„Seersucker
Advised Point Advised Point Count per Fabric Type Count per Fabric Type
GroupD „Linen,Linen/cotton
„Rayonblends
Advised Point Advised Point Count Count --Groups Groups Of Fabrics Of Fabrics
Tighten
Normal
Individual roll (points/
100
sq
.
Shipment (points/
100
sq
.
Individual roll (points/
100
sq
.
Shipment (points/
100
sq
.
(points/
100
sq
.
yds.)
(points/
100
sq
.
yds.)
(points/
100
sq
.
yds.)
(points/
100
sq
.
yds.)
GroupA
15
12
20
15
Group B
20
16
25
18
G
C
25
20
35
25
G
roup
C
25
20
35
25
Group D
35
25
40
32
Section Section 2:2: Random Sampling Random Sampling
Random Sampling Random Sampling
„
The sampling shall be selected for inspection on an entirely random basis.
„
The mill is required to
p
resent inspectors with a
draft shipment packing list when eighty (80%)
percentoftherollsarepackedfromthatlist the percent
of
the
rolls
are
packed
from
that
list
,
the
inspector will select rolls to be inspected.
Sampling M Sampling Methodology ethodology
„
Different clients may have different choices of sampling methods. Followingarethemostpopularsamplingmethods. Following
are
the
most
popular
sampling
methods.
¾
10% 20% oftheShipmentQuantity
¾
10%
,
20%
……
of
the
Shipment
Quantity
¾Total Shipment Quantity X 10 ¾Fixed Sample Size
Section Section 3:3: On On--Site Fabric Inspection Process Site Fabric Inspection Process
Stage 1
Stage 2
Quantity available check
Pattern & Color vs. Reference
Fabric Fabric Inspection Inspection
Wkfl Wkfl
Stage 3
Fabric length, width
& weight check
W
or
kfl
ow
W
or
kfl
ow
Stage 4
Appearance check
Stage 6
Stage 5
Shade matching Shade
In
spec
ti
o
n
Co
n
d
iti
o
n
s
In
spec
ti
o
n
Co
n
d
iti
o
n
s
specoCodos specoCodos
„
A suitable environment is very important for inspection. In
order to speed up the inspection, fabric manufacturer
should provide inspectors with necessary support inloading and unloading fabric rolls.
„
All fabrics are to be inspected on an inspection frame with a variable speed motor and proper lighting.
„
The fabric will be inspected at a speed that is compatible with the fabric quality, but should never exceed:
¾
25yards/meterperminuteforsolidcolors;
¾
25
yards/meter
per
minute
for
solid
colors;
¾15 yards/meter per minute for printed/ pattern fabrics; .
„
Thefabricinspectionquantitydependsonthefabrictypes: The
fabric
inspection
quantity
depends
on
the
fabric
types:
¾about 1,500 to 2,000 yards per day;
Inspection Inspection Procedure Procedure ––Fabric Width Fabric Width
„
Cuttable width will be checked at minimum three ti d i th i ti f ll(10 d f ti
mes
d
ur
i
ng
th
e
i
nspec
ti
on o
f
a ro
ll
(10
yar
d
s
f
rom
beginning, middle and 10 yards from end of the roll).
„
Assign 4 point (4-point system only) to each linear y
ard of fabric where the cuttable width is less than the
yminimum specified.
Inspection Inspection Procedure Procedure ––Fabric Length Fabric Length
„
Fabric length can be measured by a meter which is set
up on the fabric inspection machine. Otherwise, the
lt tb t ifth f b i l thi
resu
lt
may no
t
b
e accura
t
e
if
th
e
f
a
b
r
i
c
l
eng
th
i
s
measured manually on a table, particularly for knit
fabrics.
„
If a fabric roll length is 2% shorter from the ordered ticket it may be rejected. Penalty points will not be
i df lll th i ti b tit h ll
b
ass
i
gne
d
f
or ro
ll
Inspection Procedures Inspection Procedures – –Bow / Skew Bow / Skew
„
Rolls found with Bow / Skew exceeding tolerance level will be graded
as “Second quality”
FABRIC TYPE
TOLERANCE
SOLID COLOR
3%ofoverallwidth
SOLID
COLOR
3%
of
overall
width
YARN DYE / PRINTING 2% of overall width
BOW SKEW
Inspection Inspection Procedure Procedure ––Shade Matching Shade Matching
„
Color shade evaluationconsists ofthe following points:
¾Color shade comparison against reference sample ¾¾
Side to Side / Side to Center
¾End to End
¾Roll to Roll
Note: Common use light source: D65 daylight
Sid t Sid Sid t Sid
Sh d E l ti Sh d E l ti
Sid
e
t
o
Sid
e
Sid
e
t
o
Sid
e
Sh
a
d
e
E
va
l
ua
ti
on
Sh
a
d
e
E
va
l
ua
ti
on
EndtoEnd EndtoEnd
ShadeEvaluation ShadeEvaluation
End
to
End
End
to
End
Shade
Evaluation Shade Evaluation
RolltoRoll RolltoRoll
ShadeEvaluation ShadeEvaluation
Roll
to
Roll
Roll
to
Roll
Shade
Evaluation Shade
Evaluation
Inspection Inspection Procedure Procedure ––AATCC Gray Scale AATCC Gray Scale
GRADE EXPLANATION
5 NEGLIGIBLE OR NO CHANGE
4
5
4
-
5
4 SLIGHTLY CHANGED
3-4
3
N
OTICEABLE CHANGED
2-3 2 CONSIDERABLE CHANGED 1-2 1
MUCH CHANGED
1
MUCH
CHANGED
Generally Generally
AcceptableLevel AcceptableLevel
Generally
Generally
Acceptable
Level Acceptable
Level
Inspection Inspection Procedure Procedure ––Fabric Weight Fabric Weight
„
Atleasttwosamplesindifferentrollsshouldbeweighed. At
least
two
samples
in
different
rolls
should
be
weighed.
¾General tolerance:
+/-5% of fabric weighing < 10 oz./sq.yd
+/
-
3% of fabric weighing
≥
10 oz./sq.yd
+/
3%
of
fabric
weighing
≥
10
oz./sq.yd
¾For example:
Order request: 6.0 oz/sq.yd. (Requirement: +/-5%)
If the finding is 6.15 oz/sq.yd. ÆAccepte
d
If the finding is 6.40 oz/sq.yd. ÆRejected
„
STEPS
:
„
STEPS
:
¾The fabric swatch should be drawn at least 1 yard from the beginning/end.
¾Cut the sampled fabric with punch.
¾For accuracy, use electronic balance to weight fabric.
Inspection Inspection Procedure Procedure ––Punch and Scale Punch and Scale
Inspection Inspection Procedure Procedure ––Packaging Packaging
„
Fabric shall be rolled onto a tube with the necessary wallthicknessan
d
strengthtoensurethefabricreaches
itsdestinationingoodcondition.
„
Tube diameter shall be at least 1.5” in diameter, but not morethan2
”
indiameter.
more
than
2
in
diameter.
Inspection Inspection Procedure Procedure ––Packaging Packaging
„
Tubes shall not protrude more than 1” on either end of the fabricroll. fabric
roll.
„
Tube rolls with telescoped or loosely wound fabric will not be accepted.