Addressing wrinkles, body odor & dandruff through cosmeceutical preparations

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1. Presentation on topic : Addressing wrinkles, body odor, dandruff through cosmeceutical formulations . Presented by: Ms. D. Monika M.Pharm (Pharmaceutics)

2. wrinkles INTRODUCTION: First sign of ageing. Are most prominent on sun-exposed skin, such as the face, neck, hands and forearms . Wrinkles are the lines and creases that form in your skin. Some wrinkles can become deep crevices or furrows, may be especially noticeable around your eyes, mouth and neck.

3. CAUSES Skin aging is characterized by a progressive deterioration of the skin's  functional properties, linked to alterations of dermal connective tissue due to the  changes at the cell, gene and protein levels. Skin aging can be divided into two  basic processes: intrinsic aging and photo aging FACTORS INFLUENCING INTRINSIC AGING AND PHOTOAGING( EXTRINSIC AGING)

4. Changes occurring in aged skin layers 4 Epidermis: Decreased lipid content and changed composition. Diminished secretion from sebaceous and sweat glands. Flattening of Dermal epidermal junction. Increased epidermal thickness and pronounced epidermal atrophy. Dermis: Decreased elasticity. Decreased growth rate of epidermis. Decreased collagen synthesis and organization. Decreased Hyaluronic acid secretion. Hypodermis: Muscle contraction Decreased fat content

5. Way 1 To change the nature of ageing collagen Way 2  Fill in the depressions of  the skin or paralyze the muscles that cause  the wrinkle Way 3   Stretch the skin Treatments 5 There are a lot of treatments boasting the capability to improve wrinkles:  pharmaceutical, surgical and cosmetic solutions. 

6. 6 1)The fillers : • The filler is a biological or syntactical mean to inject in hypoderm or in derma tissue, so to implement or enhance a limited area of body (usually face) for aesthetic purpose. • The used substrates are bovine collagen, autologous collagen, cadaveric collagen. 2)Peelings : •Peeling is a medical treatment consisting in a micro-abrasion of epidermis or the superficial and medium derma, by means of chemical or physical agents. • The peels used in these treatments are pyruvic acid, salicylic acid, retinoic acid, tricloroacetic acid (T.C.A.) at 10%-20 %.

7. 7 3)Botulinum toxin •Botulinum toxin injection for treatment of facial wrinkles is one of the most common entry procedures for clinicians seeking to incorporate aesthetic treatments into their practice. • Botulinum toxin is a potent neurotoxin that inhibits release of acetylcholine at the neuromuscular junction. 4)Lasers •The cosmetic use of the laser represents a valid non-invasive intervention for the aged skin. The used lasers are the CO2 laser. • They are indicated for treatments of aesthetic lesions, for resurfacing, for non-ablative rejuvenating and for hair removal. Other treatments are Dermabrasion , surgery ,Ultrasound therapy

8. The anti‐aging cream formulation associates a complex of fats and oils  that play an essential role in restoring the hydro‐lipid protective skin barrier,  contributing to a highly softening, nourishing and moisturizing the sensitive  skin,  affected  by external factors, dehydrated and wrinkled, with  red wine extract  having regenerative properties, collagen and alpha tocopherol acetate with antiaging action for the skin.  Natural almond oil, phytosqualene Soothing and nourishing the skin with a good  spreadability and without leaving  any  greasy  feeling, reducing fine lines  and wrinkles.  α - tocopherol acetate Combat skin aging processes caused by free radicals,  It  softens the skin and  improves skin elasticity.  Fatty acids(oleic, linolenic),Triglycerides Good  spreadability restoring the hydro‐lipid protective skin barrier,  softening, nourishing and moisturizing the sensitive skin. Collagen Natural  component  of  the  skin,  stimulates young neo‐ fibrillogenesis  and ensures permanent maintenance of skin  hydration.   Shea butter, Red wine extract Excellent  softening,  moisturizing  and  nourishing properties with a good spreadability  and leaving a non greasy feeling  to the skin. 8 Components of Anti Wrinkle Formulation Emollient Antioxidant Fats & Oils Collagen Moisturizer

9. Phase Ingredient INSI Designation Function A Deionized water, Aqua solvent Glycerol Glycerin denaturant/humectant/  solvent Dermofeel ® PA‐3 Sodium Phytate, Aqua Chelating Dermosoft ® LP  Caprylyl  Glycol, Glycerin,  Glyceryl Caprylate,  Phenylpropanol   preservative A1 Rapithix  A 100  Sodium Polyacrylate viscosity controlling /  binding / film forming Keltrol  RD Xanthan Gum binding/emulsion  stabilising /viscosity  controlling/gel forming B symbio®muls  CG Glyceryl Stearate Citrate,  Cetearyl  Alcohol, Glyceryl  Caprylate  emollient / emulsifying/ skin conditioning  Almond oil  Prunus Amygdalus  Dulcis  Oil, emollient / skin  conditioning C Biomimetic  Collagen  Glycine, Proline,  Hydroxyproline  Active ingredient Red Wine Extract VITIS VINIFERA EXTRACT  Active ingredient D Parf .  Kenzomo   D’ete   parfrum parfrum FORMULATION TABLE FOR ANTI AGEING CREAM

10. Sample preparation of the anti‐aging cream : METHOD: Phase A  (demineralized water,  dermorganics ® Glycerin (Glycerin),  dermofeel ®  PA‐3 (Sodium Phytate, Aqua),  dermosoft ® LP ( Caprylyl  Glycol, Glycerin, Glyceryl  Caprylate,  Phenylpropanol )) was heated at 80°C.  Phase A1  (xanthan gum and  Sodium Polyacrylate) was dispersed in phase A.     Phase B  ( symbio®muls  CG (Glyceryl Stearate Citrate,  Cetearyl  Alcohol, Glyceryl  Caprylate),  Plantec  Natural Shea Butter ( Butyrospermum   Parkii ),  Fitoderm  ( Squalane ),  dermofeel®sensolv   (Isoamyl  Laurate),  DC  345  Fluid  ( Cyclopentasiloxane ,  Cyclohexasiloxane ),  dermofeel ® E 74 A ( Tocopheryl  Acetate, Helianthus  Annuus  (Sunflower)  Seed  Oil  and almond oil) was melted on water bath at 75°C.  Phase A  was emulsified  with  phase B  under stirring and cooling down to 40°C was started under medium  stirring.    Phase C  (Biomimetic Collagen (Glycine, Proline, Hydroxyproline) and red  grape extract ( Vitis   Vinifera  Extract) was added under stirring.

11. Evaluation of anti ageing cream: Appearance: The appearance, color and odor were tested organoleptically.      pH determination: Was performed using a pH meter   Determination of the viscosity : Was  performed using a HAAKE  Visco tester VT550  (spindle R = 6, shear  rate D=5 s ‐ 1, temperature  T=20 0 C).      Accelerated stability studies:    The developed cosmetic formulation was monitored under accelerated  stability studies.  Accelerated  stability tests were performed over a period of 30  days while maintaining the  product  at 4, 20 and 40 ° C. 

12. Some Marketed Formulations: 12 Code H C serum: Paraben-free No harmful chemicals No phthalates and synthetic colors Cruelty-free Gets absorbed fast Works with regular usage Reduces fine lines and dark spots Makes skin soft Improves skin texture Bae Body Retinol: Fights fine lines and wrinkles as well as age spots and discolorations 5% active retinol complex Also reduces signs of acne scarring Cruelty-free 71% organic ingredients Free from parabens and synthetic dyes and fragrances

13. Addressing Body odour through cosmetic formulation 13

14. Sweating and body odor 14 Sweating :   Perspiration (sweating, transpiration, or diaphoresis) is the production of fluids secreted by the sweat glands in the skin of mammals. Sweating is primarily a means of thermoregulation which is achieved by the water-rich secretion of the eccrine glands . Heavy perspiration and body odor can happen when you exercise, when you're too warm, or when you're nervous, anxious or under stress. Our body has three main types of sweat glands, eccrine glands, apocrine glands and sebaceous glands which are the main glands for production of sweat in our body.

15. Biology Behind Body Odor: 15 The  biology behind body odor  is pretty tricky, but it's partially based on three types of glands that contribute to odors.  E crine glands  exist all over the body and kick into gear when we exercise, become overheated, or feel anxious.  Sebaceous glands   are also found throughout the body and only start producing their oily liquid during puberty.  Apocrine glands , located mostly in the armpit and pubic regions, also start acting up around adolescence and can cause some serious stink. Steroids in apocrine secretions, especially the ones that come from the armpit, are some of the biggest culprits behind adult body odor. But here's a  real   shocker  sweat and other secretions   don’t  actually  smell . Sweat, sebaceous, and apocrine glands secrete volatile organic compounds, and odors arise when these " VOCs " interact with bacteria on the skin, in hair follicles, and in the mouth.

16. Sweating Mechanism: 16

17. 17 Anti Perspirants & Deodorants Specifically used for reduction or prevention of body odor caused by excessive sweating.

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19. Deodorants Deodorants reduce this odor in one of three ways: By preventing the action of bacteria on the perspiration, By preventing the secretion of perspiration, or By masking the offensive odor with a pleasant one, Deodorants that kill or inactivate bacteria contain antiseptic substances, such as alcohol, formaldehyde, and boric acid. Chlorine compounds, e.g. Hypochlorite and chlorhexidine, work by killing bacteria which may be responsible for the odor Deodorants that mask perspiration odor contain perfumes. Essential oils and such disinfectants as carbolic acid simply mask the odor, making it less offensive. Aluminium -based antiperspirants work by blocking the sweat ducts, thereby reducing the amount of sweat that reaches the skin’s surface. Aluminium salts are soluble as long as the formulation is acidic (low ph ). When they are applied to skin and come in contact with sweat, the ph rises causing the aluminium salts to precipitate out and form a plug over the sweat glands. Sweat continues to be produced by the sweat gland but it just isn't able to reach the surface of the skin.   A few commonly used antiperspirant active ingredients are aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate complexes, and aluminum zirconium complexes .  Anti P erspirants Mechanism of Anti Perspirants and Deodorants 19

20. Constituent in an Anti- Perspirant : 20

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23. Constituent of a Deodorant: 23

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25. ADDRESSING DANDRUFF THROUGH COSMETIC FORMULATION 25

26. Dandruff is a common chronic scalp condition marked by flaking of the skin on your scalp. Dandruff isn't contagious or serious. But it can be embarrassing and sometimes difficult to treat. The good news is that dandruff usually can be controlled. Mild cases of dandruff may need nothing more than daily shampooing with a gentle cleanser. More-stubborn cases of dandruff often respond to medicated shampoos. Dandruff 26

27. For most teens and adults, dandruff symptoms are easy to spot, white, oily-looking flakes of dead skin that dot your hair and shoulders, and a possibly itchy, scaly scalp. The condition may worsen during the fall and winter, when indoor heating can contribute to dry skin, and improve during the summer. A type of dandruff called cradle cap can affect babies. This disorder, which causes a scaly, crusty scalp, is most common in newborns, but it can occur anytime during infancy. Although it can be alarming for parents, cradle cap isn't dangerous and usually clears up on its own. Symptoms: 27

28. Dandruff can have several causes, including: Irritated, oily skin (seborrheic dermatitis).  This condition, one of the most frequent causes of dandruff, is marked by red, greasy skin covered with flaky white or yellow scales. Seborrheic dermatitis may affect your scalp and other areas rich in oil glands, such as your eyebrows, the sides of your nose and the backs of your ears, your breastbone (sternum), your groin area, and sometimes your armpits. Not shampooing often enough.  If you don't regularly wash your hair, oils and skin cells from your scalp can build up, causing dandruff. A yeastlike fungus ( malassezia ).   Malassezia lives on the scalps of most adults. But, for some, it irritates the scalp and can cause more skin cells to grow. The extra skin cells die and fall off, making them appear white and flaky in your hair or on your clothes. Why malassezia irritates some scalps isn't known. Dry skin.  Flakes from dry skin are generally smaller and less oily than those from other causes of dandruff. And, redness or inflammation is unlikely. You'll probably have dry skin on other parts of the body, such as your legs and arms, too. Sensitivity to hair care products (contact dermatitis).  Sometimes sensitivities to certain ingredients in hair care products or hair dyes can cause a red, itchy, scaly scalp. CAUSES: 28

29. 29 Seborrheic Dermatitis Malassezia

30. Risk Factors: 30 Almost anyone can have dandruff, but certain factors can make you more susceptible: Age .  Dandruff usually begins in young adulthood and continues through middle age. That doesn't mean older adults don't get dandruff. For some people, the problem can be lifelong. Being male.  Because more men have dandruff, some researchers think male hormones may play a role. Oily hair and scalp.   Malassezia feeds on oils in your scalp. For that reason, having excessively oily skin and hair makes you more prone to dandruff. Certain illnesses.  For reasons that aren't clear, adults with neurological diseases, such as Parkinson's disease, are more likely to develop seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff. So are people with HIV infection, or those who have compromised immune systems from other conditions.

31. Dandruff can almost always be controlled, but dandruff treatment may take some trial and error. In general, daily cleansing with a gentle shampoo to reduce oiliness and skin cell buildup can often help mild dandruff . When regular shampoos fail, dandruff shampoos you can buy at a drugstore may succeed. But dandruff shampoos aren't all alike, and you may need to experiment until you find one that works for you. If you develop itching, stinging, redness or burning from any product, stop using it. If you develop an allergic reaction such as a rash, hives or difficulty breathing — seek immediate medical attention. Treatment: 31

32. Dandruff shampoos are classified according to the medication they contain: Pyrithione zinc shampoos (such as Head & Shoulders, Jason Dandruff Relief 2 in 1).  These contain the antibacterial and antifungal agent zinc pyrithione . This type of shampoo can reduce the fungus on your scalp that can cause dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis. Tar-based shampoos (such as Neutrogena T/Gel).  Coal tar, a byproduct of the coal manufacturing process, helps conditions such as dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis and psoriasis. It slows how quickly skin cells on your scalp die and flake off. If you have light-colored hair, this type of shampoo may cause discoloration. Shampoos containing salicylic acid (such as Neutrogena T/Sal).  These "scalp scrubs" help eliminate scale, but they may leave your scalp dry, leading to more flaking. Using a conditioner after shampooing can help relieve dryness. Selenium sulfide shampoos (such as Selsun Blue).  These shampoos slow your skin cells from dying and may also reduce malassezia .  Because they can discolor blond, gray or chemically colored hair, be sure to use them only as directed, and rinse well after shampooing. Ketoconazole shampoos (such as Nizoral ).  Ketoconazole is a broad-spectrum antifungal agent that may work when other shampoos fail. It's available over-the-counter as well as by prescription. Anti Dandruff Shampoos: 32

33. Lifestyle and Home Remedies: 33 In addition to regular shampooing, you can take steps to reduce your risk of developing dandruff: Learn to manage stress.  Stress affects your overall health, making you susceptible to a number of conditions and diseases. It can even help trigger dandruff or worsen existing symptoms. Shampoo often.  If you tend to have an oily scalp, daily shampooing may help prevent dandruff. Get a little sun.  Sunlight may be good for dandruff. But because exposure to ultraviolet light damages your skin and increases your risk of skin cancer, don't sunbathe. Instead, just spend a little time outdoors. And be sure to wear sunscreen on your face and body .

34. How Anti Dandruff S hampoos W ork? 34 Dandruff-fighting agents

35. Cleansers : Cleansers are vital in lifting dirt and oil trapped in the hair to ensure it’s clean and shiny. Our cleansers are effective in cleaningyour hair while still being kind to the scalp. Our   Classic Clean Shampoo  is ideal for keeping your hair fresh and flake free 1 while preventing the symptoms of dandruffincluding itchiness, redness and dryness. Lathering agents Lathering ingredients are added to the shampoo to make it rich and creamy enough to spread across your scalp and through the hairstrands evenly. Moisturizers Moisturizers and conditioners are key factors in making sure your hair is kept silky and soft to the touch by protecting the hair fromroot to tip and helping keep your hair tangle free. To moisturize dry hair and help keep it frizz free . 35

36. Stabilizers These are integral in keeping all of the shampoo ingredients “blended and suspended” in the correct manner, so you get the right mixture every time you use it. Preservatives These protect the shampoo by preventing it from becoming contaminated. Texture and consistency Ingredients are added to the shampoo to ensure it’s the perfect thickness – not too runny, and not too thick to spread. Color , fragrances and plant essences To make sure every wash is a fantastic one, we add delightful fragrances and colors to our shampoos, and sometimes plant extracts like mint or almond, to keep your hair smelling amazing and looking beautiful. 36

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38. Some Herbal Ingredients Used in Anti Dandruff Shampoo: 38 Tea Tree Oil  is a known anti-fungal agent which effectively treats dandruff. It moisturizes hair and keeps the scalp free of fungal infections. Aloe Vera  softens hair and soothes the scalp, helping to alleviate itching . Neem oil helps to reduce dandruff

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