Analysis of perfumes and deodorants

Insights to the perfumes and deodorants and their analyzing techniques

1. Analytical Techniques For Evaluation Of Perfumes, Deodorants And Anti-Perspirants Vikhyati Patel 15MCT111 QACT SEMESTER II C.E.

2. Content Perfumes Extraction Process Fragrance notes Types of perfumes Types of fragrance ingredients Techniques Stages of analysing perfumes Evaluation of perfumes Deodorants V/S Anti-Perspirants General Composition Mechanism of action Evaluation of anti-Perspirants and Deodorants

3. Perfumes Perfume is a mixture of essential oils or aroma compounds , fixatives and solvents - used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces "a pleasant scent ". Types of perfumery ingredients: I . Odorants : they give typical odour: 1)Concretes 2)Absolutes 3)Tinctures 4)Resinoid II. Fixatives III. Extenders https:// en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfume http://www.perfumerbook.com/Perfume%20Bases%20&%20Fragrance%20Ingredients.pdf 1

4. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfume 2

5. Fragrance notes Notes in perfumery are descriptors of scents that can be sensed upon the application of a perfume. 3 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Note_(perfumery ) http://www.fragrancecellar.com/the-fragrance-vocabulary/

6. 4 “Analysis of Cosmetic Products”; A. Salvador, A. Chisvert; Elsevier Publishers; First Edition 2007; Page: 243

7. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfume 5

8. TYPES OF FRAGRANCE INGREDIENTS Five carbon isoprene unit: Terpene “Analysis of Cosmetic Products”; A. Salvador, A. Chisvert; Elsevier Publishers; First Edition 2007; Page: 243 Monoterpene hydrocarbons (e.g.: limonene) Sesquiterpene hydrocarbons (e.g.: α -farnesene) Alcohols (e.g.: cis-3-hexenol) Monoterpene alcohols (e.g.: linalool) Phenols (e.g.: eugenol) Sesquiterpene alcohols (e.g.: farnesol) Aldehydes (e.g.: 2,6-nonadienal) Terpene aldehyde (e.g.: citral) Terpene ketones (e.g.: β -ionone) Ketones (e.g.: cyclohexanones) Lactones (e.g.: γ -undecalactone) Esters (e.g.: methyl salicylate) Terpene esters (e.g.: linayl acetate) Oxides (e.g.: eucalyptol) 6

9. “Analysis of Cosmetic Products”; A. Salvador, A. Chisvert; Elsevier Publishers; First Edition 2007; Page: 243 7

10. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfume Techniques Although there is no single "correct" technique for the formulation of a perfume, there are general guidelines as to how a perfume can be constructed from a concept. Many perfumes include colorants and anti-oxidants to improve the marketability and shelf life of the perfume, respectively. Basic framework: Perfume oils usually contain tens to hundreds of ingredients and these are typically organized in a perfume for the specific role they will play. These ingredients can be roughly grouped into four groups: Primary scents (Heart ) : Can consist of one or a few main ingredients for a certain concept, such as "rose". Alternatively, multiple ingredients can be used together to create an "abstract" primary scent that does not bear a resemblance to a natural ingredient. - For instance, jasmine and rose scents are commonly blends for abstract floral fragrances. Cola flavourant is a good example of an abstract primary scent. 8

11.  Burr, Chandler (2003). The Emperor of Scent: A Story of Perfume, Obsession, and the Last Mystery of the Senses. New York: Random House. 9 Modifiers : These ingredients alter the primary scent to give the perfume a certain desired character. - For instance, fruit esters may be included in a floral primary to create a fruity floral. Calone and citrus scents can be added to create a "fresher" floral. The cherry scent in cherry cola can be considered a modifier . Blenders : A large group of ingredients that smooth out the transitions of a perfume between different "layers" or bases. These themselves can be used as a major component of the primary scent. Common blending ingredients include linalool and  hydroxycitronellal. Fixatives : Used to support the primary scent by bolstering it. Many resins, wood scents, and amber bases are used as fixatives.

12. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfume Why to analyse the perfume? Whether the perfume manufacturer fulfils the desired quality such as ratio of fragrance ingredients, absence/presence of undesired compound- Quality Control To quantify the fragrance ingredients , since they will be incorporated in the cosmetic products later. 10

13. Stages of analysing Perfumes Sensorial Evaluation : smell, viscosity , colour and clarity of the oil are assessed . Odour/Smell test : which helps to determine if an oil is really what it is claimed to be, since certain adulterants can be identified by this test. Physical Test : specific gravity, optical rotation and refractive index are determined . GC-MS evaluation . https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfume 11

14. https://www.perkinelmer.com/lab-solutions//resources/docs/APP_011482_01_CharacterizationofPerfumeFragrances.pdf Olfactory Characterization The “ noses ” of trained person are useful for checking the notes of the perfume. Electronic Nose zNose® invented by Electronic Sensor Technology , Southern California is known for separation and quantification of the individual chemicals with an odour in few seconds. 12

15. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfume 13

16. 14

17. 15

18. 16

19. 17

20. “Analysis of Cosmetic Products”; A. Salvador, A. Chisvert; Elsevier Publishers; First Edition 2007; Page: 243 Use of spectroscopic analytical techniques , like UV/VIS, IR , Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) , provide the valuable information about the quality. Chromatographic Techniques such as Gas Chromatography (GC) by both Injection or Headspace (HS) are most widely used techniques in perfume industries. 18

21. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfume For further classification: Flame ionization detector (FID) and Thermal conductivity detector (TCD), establish Korats index (KI) for each compound , which represent a relative measurement of retention time with respect to a group of known hydrocarbons . MS detectors provide greater sensitivity and higher selectivity than the above one. LC and TLC can be applied to determine low volatile or thermolabile fragrance chemicals . 19

22. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfume

23. http://www.compoundchem.com/2015/09/21/deodorants-antiperspirants/ 21

24. http://www.shutterstock.com/pic-174211835/stock-vector-armpit-sweat-armpit-sweating-beauty-female-armpit-sweat-eccrine-sweat-glands-apocrine-sweat.html 22

25. http://ochemdaily.blogspot.in/ General Composition 23

26. http://ochemdaily.blogspot.in/ 24

27. http://ochemdaily.blogspot.in/ 25

28. 26

29. 2 7

30. 28

31. 29

32. http://www.sweathelp.org/hyperhidrosis-treatments/antiperspirants/antiperspirant-basics.html 30

33. http://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007%2F978-3-642-59869-2_8#page-1 31

34. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfume 32

35. http://www.slideshare.net/parth241989/analysis-of-cosmetic 33

36. http://image.slidesharecdn.com/analysisofcosmetic-130121025614-phpapp01/95/analysis-of-cosmetic-36-638.jpg?cb=1358737090 34

37. http://www.slideshare.net/parth241989/analysis-of-cosmetic Specific Tests 35

38. 36

39. 37