APPAREL PRODUCTION MANAGEMNET

EASY NOTES

1. Work Study: Work study is the systematic and analytical study of work process and work method
with the object of increasing efficiency, reducing cost and ensuring the best possible use of man,
machine, material resources and time available. The prime aim of work study is to improve the
productivity. The work study is divided by two ways. There are-
● Method Study
● Time Study
SREDDIM:
‘SREDDIM’ is the professional approach of work study. Work study is carried out according to the
sequence of letter in ‘SREDDIM’ as follows-
● S: Select: Select the job or process or operation to be studied.
● R: Record: Record all relevant data about the job using suitable technique.
● E: Examine: Examine the job critically.
● D: Develop: Develop the best method for the job
● D: Define: Define the best method.
● I: Install: Install the new method as a regular practice.
● M: Maintain: Maintain the installed method by regular routine check.
Object of Work Study:
❖ To obtain the optimum use of man, machine, and material.
❖ To find out the best method and time required for each operation.
❖ To standardize the time for each operation
❖ Optimum productivity.
❖ To reduce cost (labor, overhead, material).
❖ Establishment of fair task for everyone.
❖ Improve quality.
❖ Increase profitability.
❖ Simplify the work
❖ Ensure less idea time.
❖ Maintaining proper target.
❖ Improve manpower efficiency at all the level.
❖ To calculate SMV (Standard Minute Value).

Time study

2. Time study measures the maximum necessary time required to do the job. It is the most important
technique of work measurement. It can be defined as “Time study is the technique for determining
as accurately” as possible from a limited number of observations. The time study necessary to carry
out a given activity at a defined level of performance.
Objects of Time Study:
❏ To determine standard time during which the operation can be performed efficiently
❏ To determined scheduling and planning.
Objects of Time Study:
❏ To calculate fair production per hours.
❏ Help to the motion study of the job.
❏ The standard time data is used in time. So a fair entire wage plane can be established.
❏ To achieve a uniform flow of work.
Element used in the Time Study:
Stopwatch: Stop watch is the element which used in time study. Two types of works can be
used. There are-


● Fly back
● Continuous
This watch can be used in any of the following time scales-
➔ Seconds
➔ Decimal minutes
➔ Decimal hours
Others: Expect stop watch, following tools may also be used
Others: Expect stopwatch, following tools may also be used
● Time study board
● Time study form

3. ● Ruler
● Pencil
Motion study
Purpose of Motion Study:

The goal of motion study is to enhance work performance (quantity and quality of output) through
analysis and improvement of body and hand movements. Motion study can be thought of system
improvement at a micro level and is a part of human effort engineering.

In the contemporary work environment, motion study also involves reducing the ergonomic stresses
associated with a job. This reduces costs (medical treatment and time lost) associated with work
injuries. It may also reduce production losses associated with hiring and training replacement
workers as well as rehabilitation of persons with work-related injuries.
Principle of motion study:
1) Principles relating to movement of human body:
★ The labor has to move his/her body with speed for performing a job. Speed of work cannot
be increased without moving body properly.
★ The use of two hands at a time is also important to increase the speed of work.
★ Movement should be reduced for doing all necessary materials, tools, spare parts etc. has to
keep very near to the hands.
★ If body movement can be minimized for doing a job, then energy and time will be saved.
Principle of motion study:
1) Principles relating to movement of human body:
★ Have to take rest in between works for removing the tiredness, as a result work speed will
be increased and total works will be much more.
★ To remove monotony, have to arrange recreation and ultimately it will give good result
★ Take care of health and have to arrange first aid that is necessary. Medicines have to keep
inside the industry
Principle of motion study:
2. Principles or rules relating to workstation:
➢ All necessary materials, tools, spare parts etc. has to keep within the range of two hands of
workers at the workstation.
➢ Either very much needed to perform certain types of jobs, in that case works should be
within the eyes range and sufficient light should be there
➢ All types of input always be ready before starting the job.

4. ➢ Space of workstation should be sufficient to do the job smoothly.
➢ Workstation should be clean with sufficient air and light be there.
3. Principles relating to tools and equipment:
❏ All tools and equipment have to keep within the range of worker that is near to the hands of
worker
❏ If necessary the hands of worker have to keep free for doing any important job, in this case
the legs of worker have to used.
❏ Have to used automatic system or conveyors belt for carrying input from workstation to
other.
❏ All machines and equipment have to be in order that is in good condition, as a result no time
will be wasted.
4. Principles of goods transportation:
❏ There should be a nice device to transfer goods from one place to other or one workstation
to other, better if there is fully automatic system.
❏ There should be nice device for receiving raw material from truck and prompt delivery
finished goods into the truck.
5. Principle of time saving:
Have to study time for doing every types of job; the aim will be reduce time for doing a particular
job. In this case human movements always have to be fast and the machine will be in good quality.
Calculation of SMV
Standard Allowed Minute or Standard Minute Value (SAM or SMV) is an important factor in
garments manufacturing industry. Production rate can be calculated by using it. But Standard
minutes (SAM or SMV) estimation is not a tough task that we have normally seemed. As its
importance on readymade garments industry, today I will present here the estimation method of
SAM or SMV.
calculation Method of Standard Minute (SAM or SMV) in Apparel Industry:
An industrial engineer should follow the below formula for calculating SAM or SMV.
SAM = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + Machine and Personal allowances)…… (1)
Normally bundle allowances should be added 10% with basic time and Machine and Personal
allowances added 20% with basic time.

The main thing here, the determination of “Basic minute”. It can be done by two ways.
Method-01:
In this case, SAM or SMV Calculation can be done by using synthetic data. At first an industrial
engineer has to fix an operation, for which he wants to estimate SAM or SMV.

5. Here, he should stand near the m/c operator and follow the every working procedure for the
selected operation. He should note all the activities done by the operator (these activities are called
synthetic data collection). When all the activities of operator will complete, then industrial engineer
should follow the same activities of operator again to check the noted activities that the note is ok or
not.
Now, industrial engineer should list down all the activities of operator in sequentially and refer the
synthetic data for TMU (time measuring unit) values. Suppose, industrial engineer got TMU value for
that operation is 450. Now he should convert total TMU into minutes, where (1TMU= 0.0006
minute). So for 450TMU= (450 × 0.0006) = 0.27minute. This minute is termed as Basic time.
So, now from equation-01, we get,

SAM or SMV = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + Machine and Personal allowances)
= 0.27 + (0.27 × 10%) + (0.27 × 20%)
= 0.27 + 0.027 + 0.054
= 0.351minute

So, SAM or SMV value for that operation is 0.351 minute.
Method-02:
In this case, SAM or SMV Calculation can be done by using time study.

Here, industrial engineer should take a stop watch and stands near the m/c operator. Capture cycle
time for that operation (that he chosen early). Cycle time means “total time needed to complete full
operation”. He should be done this process consecutively at least for 5 cycle times. Then he should
calculate mean cycle time by adding 5 cycle times and divided those by 5. Finally industrial engineer
gets the cycle time here. (Let, cycle time here 0.50) Now, he should convert cycle times into basic
time by multiplying with “performance rating”.
So, Basic time = Cycle time × Performance rating ………………. (2)
Performance rating:
Performance rating is related with m/c operator. In which speed, operator completed his duty. It’s
determined by industrial engineer. Let, the operator performance rating was- 70%.

So, from equation (2), we get,
Basic time = 0.5 × 70% [Cycle time= 0.5]
= 0.35

So, basic time= 0.35

By using equation- (1), now we get,
SAM or SMV = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + Machine and Personal allowances)
= 0.35 + (0.35 × 10%) + (0.35 × 20%)
= 0.35+ 0.035 + 0.07
= 0.46 minute

6. So, SAM or SMV for that operation stands at 0.46 minute.

Setting Target Production in Apparel Manufacturing:
Production Target per day = (Number of operators X Working hours per day X 60 X Line Efficiency%)/
(Product SAM)
There are two problems in using this formula calculating production target on the learning stage.
● You wouldn't know actual line efficiency – as efficiency will build up day by day up to pick
efficiency level. And without past data you can’t assess what would be the efficiency of day
1, day 2 or day 3.
● Product SAM - assuming that you are not using Predetermined Motion Time System (PMTS)
for measuring product SAM. Production capacity is estimated based on time study of the
production line. This has been indicated in the question.


The only solution of this problem is that you have to develop database for line efficiency at the
learning stage. This period is called as learning curve. Develop learning curve of your lines (style
wise, order wise) by studying styles. Measure the trend - how production build up happen and
reach to pick production day by day at the learning stage. Once you have enough data on
efficiency build up (learning curve) you can make target plan for the future orders. Learning
curve may vary depending on order quantity and style difficulty level.

Learning curve (Efficiency% Vs Days) of a typical garment factory for one style is shown in the
following Fig. In this learning curve day wise efficiency build up is shown.

Example-01:
In a production line of Rahela Apparel Limited have 40 operators, where working hours is 10,
standard time 90 minutes and 80% expected efficiency. Find out the expected production target per
day in that factory.
Here,
Number of operators= 40,
Number of working hours= 10,
Standard time= 90 minutes,
Expected efficiency= 80%,
Production target per day=?

7. Daily production target = (Daily clock minute/ Standard time) × Efficiency
= [{(No. of operator × working hours × 60) / Standard time} × Efficiency]
= [{(40 × 10 × 60)/ 90} × 80%]
= 213 pcs.
So, daily production target in Rahela Apparel Limited is 213pcs.
Example-02:
Number of working hours= 08,
Number of operators= 50,
Expected efficiency= 85%,
Standard time= 80 minutes
By following the above points of Tawhida Apparel Limited, find out the daily production target in
that factory.
Solution:
Here,
No. of working time= 8 hours,
Total no. of operator= 50,
Standard time= 80min,
Efficiency= 85%,
Per day production target=?


Sample apparel making
Garment samples are categorized as development samples and production samples. Samples that
are made in development stage are as following:
● Proto Sample
● FIT sample
● Salesman Sample/Photo shot Sample
● Size set Sample
● Counter Sample
● Pre-production Sample
In the production stage, factory needs to submit few more samples that include:
● Top of Production Sample
● Shipment Sample
Proto Sample:
These samples are a prototype of a new design created by designers. This is the first sample in
product development stage. Proto sample is made to communicate the design of a style or a line
or to present garment structure. In proto samples fit and fabric detailing is not been considered.
FIT Sample:

8. Once the proto sample is approved, FIT sample is being made with the actual measurement.
Modification of the pattern is done to get the desired fit of the garment. FIT is one of the most
important factors to be considered during sample development. A Fit sample is being tested on
a live model or on a Dress form for to verify garment fit and fall.
Salesman Sample:
Salesman samples are made to put on display in the retail showroom. Salesman sample (SMS) are
displayed for assessing customer's feedback and according to customers response, buyers forecast
demand of a particular style. Sales samples are made with actual fabric and trims and accessories.
Buyer pays for salesman samples to the developer.
Size set Sample:
The purpose of the size set is to check the fit of the garment in different sizes. In this stage, factory
develops samples in multiple sizes. Generally, buyers ask size set sample in jump sizes, like S, L, XXL.
Buyer check size set sample and give feedback to factory if anything needs to be corrected.
Pre-production Sample:

All the above samples are made in sampling department. A buyer wants pre-production sample (PP
sample) to be made in the actual production line so that operators know what are they going to
make. This sample is made with actual fabric, trims, and accessories and made by sewing line tailors.
PP sample must be approved by the buyer or buying house merchants (technical persons) prior to
proceeding actual production.
Top of Production Sample (TOP sample):
Once bulk production is started, few garment pieces are taken out in the middle of the production.
Production pieces are sent to buyer as the T.O.P sample. All buyers do not ask for the TOP sample.
The purpose of the TOP sample is to cross-check whether the factory is following PP sample
specification or not.
Shipment Sample:
When style is being finished and packed for shipment, 2-3 finished and packed pieces with all
packing details are kept for future reference. Shipment sample is kept by factory merchants and
buyer's merchant. The approved shipment is sent directly to warehouse and merchants at the buyer
do not get garment out of the shipment. That is why they keep shipment sample for future
reference
Counter Sample:Counter sample can be defined as the reference sample of the original and signed
sample. Counter sample is made same way as the original sample is made and sent to buyer.

9. Apparel Production Management

Production & Proudctivity:Production is the process/methods used to transfer tangible inputs (raw
materials, semi finished goods etc) & intangible inputs ( idea, information, data , knowledge etc) to
goods / service.
 Resources are used in this process to create/produce an output that is suitable for use has
an exchange value.
Input  Transformation Output
Productivity is expressed as the ratio of output to input used in a production process.
It measures the efficiency of production.
Production (P)=
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Causes of low productivity:
 Low skill of workers
 Wrong use of machines
 Poor working environment
 Low standard raw materials
 Lack of modern machinery
 Wrong layout plan
 Change of design
 Improper plan
 Poor industrial environment
 Absences, idleness & carelessness of workers
 Wrong breakdown
 Wrong use of materials
 Wrong use of tools etc.
Production Planning and Control (PPC):
Production planning and control (PPC) is one of the most important departments in the apparel
industry. It plays an important role in apparel export business. It helps to build-up strong
relationship with the other departments to obtain maximum output from the export order. Besides,
production planning and control department of clothing industry is also responsible for the timely
shipment. There are different types of work like as task scheduling, material resource planning
(inventory), loading production, process selection and planning, select location, estimating quantity
and production cost, capacity planning, line planning, follow up and execution etc are done by

10. production planning and control department. In this article all process of production planning and
control department in garment industry are discussed elaborately.
Production Planning in Apparel Industry:
To manage with the short lead time and small but frequent orders, apparel manufacturers strive to
improve their production processes in order to deliver finished products within the expected time
frame at the lowest production cost. Production planning is therefore gaining importance in
contemporary apparel manufacturing.
Production planning can be defined as the technique of foreseeing every step in a long series of
separate operations, each step to be taken at the right time and in the right place and each
operation to be performed with maximum efficiency. It in a way helps the organization to work out
the quantity of material, manpower, machine, and money required for producing a predetermined
level of output in a specified period of time. An outline of an apparel production cycle is shown in Fig
2.

Managing production in an organization mainly involves planning, organizing, directing, and
controlling production activities. It deals with converting raw materials into finished goods along
with proper decision making regarding the quality, quantity, cost, etc. involved in it.
The basic planning process in apparel manufacture includes:
❏ Receiving the order
❏ Proper planning to check if there is sufficient plant capacity is available to achieve the
delivery date specified.
❏ Checking availability of cut parts and panels in the non sewing areas (cut embroidery if any,
print, wash, and pack)
❏ Checking if there is ample time to order and receive fabric, trims, approve sample, lab
testing, etc.
❏ Confirmation of the delivery date to the customer.
❏ Proper communication between departments for smooth flow of the process.
❏ Monitoring progress against plan.

11. ❏ Replan if required.

However, skills and efficiency vary for different teams and absenteeism is also always taken into
account. For instance, if a team normally makes woven garments, a change to knitted T-shirts means
that they are less skilled at handling that item. Automatically there is a fall in the rate of production,
which impacts planning.
The clothing industry is still very much dependent on human labor, despite increasing usage of
automatic machines and processes. Now, with the ever-changing fashion market, which demands
constant style changes, it becomes a challenge in achieving efficiencies and optimizing operator
skills. So the trick here is to have the same team of operators working on a similar type of product
for as long as possible, hence minimizing production loss. The planning must also consider special
areas where loading might impact resources.
Most business systems offer some capacity planning, while many of them are not graphical, complex
to use, and not user-friendly. Using spreadsheets has its own drawbacks: lack of transparency, not
visual, cannot be shared on a network, which limits coordination, and is cumbersome and difficult to
manage with large orders.
To overcome these obstacles companies can change:
➢ From flow line production to production in cells, where there is more teamwork and more
skilled labor, which saves time
➢ Just-in-time (JIT) approach to deal with the inventory.
➢ Strategically having partners to gain short lead times.
➢ Service orientation rather than product orientation.
➢ Emphasis on accuracy of output than volume of output.
➢ Long-term capacity planning
➢ Short-term detailed planning, that is, planning of cutting room and sewing room activities.
➢ Inventory control—raw material purchasing, finished goods, etc.
➢ Critical path control.
The management must allocate HRs in the form of Planning Executive (PE), Merchandising Executive,
Factory Planners, and Planners so that planning and control activities are well carried out. The
Planning Executive will liaise with customers and merchandising executives to establish
requirements for this season and next; agree to delivery schedules as planned; respond to the
changes that must be made on the basis of consumer demand; allocating garments to appropriate
factories to achieve customer requirements and control of critical path.
The factory planner takes information from the Planning Executive and works on them in the factory,
such as scheduling and sequencing work lines with delivery dates; working closely with the
production department at the factory; liaising with fabric suppliers for procurement of fabric. The
planner does the detailed planning of work for each line as per the customer information supplied;
purchasing of fabric and trimmings; loading the cutting room in time; production control, that is, to
ensure that quantities ordered match with the cut quantities.

12. Before a garment can go onto the production line, there is a huge amount of pre-production activity
that must take place. Sometimes it is done as specified by the customer or on a general basis.
Activities are allocated to individuals who can cross-examine them before sending them to the
sewing floor, for example, label information, wearer trials, quality seals, and fabric approval. By
doing this it becomes easy for the planning department to track where the product is on the
planning board and where it needs to be pushed forward or backward, and hence maintain a critical
path to attain the target. If by any case the production is delayed by some weeks or days, the
problem is highlighted on the planning board. So the PE must postpone the start date and try to
expedite the pre-production process.
Production Control in Apparel Industry:
Production control is the process of planning production in advance of operations, establishing the
exact way of each individual item part or assembly, setting, starting, and finishing for each important
item, assembly or the finishing production, and releasing the necessary orders as well as initiating
the necessary follow-up so that the production may run according to the original or revised
schedule.
Areas of Production Control:
Despatching:
Dispatching is an important step as it translates production plans into production. Dispatching
involves issue of production orders for starting the operations. conformation is given for:
Moving of materials from process to process.
Assigning of work to machines.
Issuing of tools to production departments.
Issuing of job orders.
Recording of time taken.
Ensuring necessary changes.
Having proper liaison with routing .
Follow-up or expediting:
Follow up or expediting is that branch of production control procedure which regulates the progress
of materials and part through the production process. It is done to check if there are any bottlenecks
in the flow of work and to ensure that the production operations are occurring in accordance with
plans. It spots delays or deviations from the production plans. It also helps to reveal defects in
routing and scheduling, under loading or overloading of work, etc. All remedial measures are taken
to ensure that the work is completed by the planned date.
Inspection:
To ensure the quality of goods inspection is also very important. The purpose of inspection is to see
whether the products manufactured are of requisite quality or not. It is carried on at various levels
of production process so that predetermined standards of quality are achieved. Inspection is
undertaken both of products and inputs.
Corrective measures:
Corrective measures may involve any of those activities of adjusting the route, rescheduling of work,
repairs and maintenance of machinery or equipment, and control over inventories. Alternative
methods are suggested to handle peak loads.

13. Importance of Production Planning and Control in Apparel Industry:
Production planning and control is important for the following reasons –
A. For Increasing Production: Main purpose of production planning is to arrange inputs. Production
control programme minimizes idleness of men and machines. It thus helps in raising industrial
output.
B. For coordinating plant activity: In planning production is carried out in a number of processes and
thus activities are synchronized for smooth working
‘’Line Balancing in Apparel Production’’
Line Balancing
Line Balancing is leveling the workload across all processes in a cell or value stream to remove
bottlenecks and excess capacity. A constraint slows the process down and results if waiting for
downstream operations and excess capacity results in waiting and absorption of fixed costs.
It is the allocation of sewing machine, according to style and design of the garments. It depends on
what types of garments we have to produce. It is done to increasing productivity.
When you consider mass production, garments are produced in lines or set of machines instead of
single machine. A line may be assembly line, modular line or section, a line set with online finishing
and packing. A line includes multiple workstations with varied work contents. Production per hour is
varied depending on work content (standard minutes of particular task/operation), allocation of
total manpower to a particular operation, operator skill level and machine capacity. Operation with
lowest production per hour is called as bottleneck operation for that line.
Objectives of Line Balancing
● Regular material flow.
● Maximum uses of manpower and machine capacity.
● Minimum process time.
● Minimizing slack time.
● Minimizing workstation.
● Maximum output at the desired time.
● Quality maintenance of the garment.
● Reduce production cost.
Importance of Line Balancing
❏ Line balancing helps to know about new machine required for new style.
❏ It becomes easier to distribute particular job to each operator.
❏ It becomes possible to deliver goods at right time at the agreed quality for list cost.
❏ Good line balancing increase the rate of production.

14. ❏ Line balancing helps to compare the required machinery with the existing one and compare
balance.
❏ It also helps in the determination of labor requirement.
❏ Good balancing reduces production time.
❏ Profit of a factory can be ensured by proper line balancing.
❏ Proper line balancing ensured optimum production at the agreed quality.
❏ It reduces faults in the finished product.
❏ Example of Line Balancing
1. Machine layout with actual production.
>Process#1. Production 40 pieces by 1 machine end production 40 pieces.
>Process#2. Production 45 pieces by 1 machine end production 40 pieces.
>Process#3. Production 75 pieces by 1 machine end production 40 pieces.
>Process#4. Production 80 pieces by 1 machine end production 40 pieces.
>Process#5. Production 50 pieces by 1 machine end production 40 pieces.
Output: 40 pieces/hour.
Analysis: Insufficient production due to lack of supply





2. Machine layout for balancing production:

15. Analysis: Action plan for further development.
Replace skilled or experienced operator for process#3, then production will increase, when
production will be 80 pieces/hour. Then same target 90 pieces for process 1, 3 & 4 and research on
it, how production can be increased. The following action can be done.
Limitations of Line Balancing
● Production lines were designed so that conveyor belts paced the speed of the employees‟
work. This arrangement wasn't appreciated by the employees.
● Inevitable changes lead to production lines being out of balance.
● Rebalancing causes disruptions to production
Apparel Production System: Types and Process
Apparel production system is the way of manufacturing process that converts the fabric into
garment. It is an integration of material handling, investment capacity, production processes,
personnel and equipment that helps to plan the work flow and produce a complete garment. As with
any manufactured product, there are different ways to organize the actual production of garments,
according to the type, the amount and the diversity of products to be made. The type apparel of
production system is determined by the quantity of production and the required rate of delivery.
Factors of garment production system:
Garment production system depends on some factors. They are:
● Company affordability
● Equipment that directly involved with workflow
● Items of finished products
● Machine or floor layout

16. ● Management philosophy
● Materials handling system
● Personnel training
● Production processes
Principles of choosing a production system:
Types of production systems in the apparel industry:
There are three main types of apparel production system. According to different ways, they are in
below:

A. Production systems that are based on order quantity
B. Production systems that are based on customer nature
C. Production systems that includes on organizational choice
A. Types of production systems that are based on order quantity:
❖ Individual production or make through system
❖ Batch production
❖ Mass production
1. Individual production or make through system:
It is the traditional method. In which the entire garment is assembled by one operator like a tailor.
Each product is made only once or in very small quantities. The system requires highly skilled,
experienced operator and versatile machinery. In this system tailor do the all jobs like pattern
making, fabric cutting, finally finish the garments for completing the garment order. This system also
called whole garment production system. There are two types of whole garment production
systems:
Complete whole garment and
Departmental whole garment.
2. Batch production:
It is used for larger, though fixed, quantities of identical products either for stock or to order.
3. Mass production:
Mass production means that large quantities of identical products are made continuously. The high
utilization of machinery and labor allows a high level of automation and specification.
B. Types of production systems that are based on customer nature:
Bespoke production
Industrial production
1. Bespoke Production:
This type of production system is including for individual clients or small group of peoples. A
garment is made according to individual size and requirements.
Advantages:
Cost is low.
No need of pattern.
Use one or more number of m/cs.
Low risk.

17. Disadvantages:
Fabric wastage is high.
More time required.
2. Industrial production:
Industrial production system is use for bulky production, they must follow standard measurement
chart and maintain special requirements for target consumer groups.
Advantages: Disadvantages:
Cost is high. Pattern must be needed.
Low fabric wastage. Many machines are required.
Takes less time. Risk is high.
C. Types of production systems that includes on organizational choice:
Manual systems
Mechanical system
Manual systems:
Manual system is the traditional methods of garment production. This type of production system is
effectively use for creative garment design and where the style variations are large. In manual
system the production quantities are small.

For example - Sewing room of a boutique or fashion house.
Manual systems are divided into 6 types:
1. Section or Processes system:
In section or processes system more skilled operators are needed to sew garment part from
beginning to the end. This system includes a small influence of personnel changes and easy style
changes. Sewing room has a number of sections; to complete all the operations for every garment
component required more versatile operators. When one section ends then it is passed on to the
next section. But this system is required more time. This section produce garments according to
style. Some working steps are:
Pre-assembling (preparation of making small parts)
Front side making
Back side making
Main-assembly (closing, setting collar and sleeves,..)
Lining making
Setting linings
Finishing operation
2. Piece rate production system:
In piece rate production system, operators are getting their payment according to their production
pieces of garment (how many pieces are they produced). It is one of the most famous production
systems for both small and large apparel factories.
3. Clump system:
In the clump system operator collect the garment part from the worktable and start the operation.
After finish the work, he returns it to the worktable. A worker for the second operation then
continues the work and so on. It is the continuous process until the whole garment has been
assembled. This process is work like that
Collection – Work –Return

18. 4. Flexible flow system:
In this system numbers of operators are needed for each operation. Number of machine are
arranged according to the flow of work. It can be planned using the accurate number of operations
in sequence. For style A garment, operator 1 do his operation one then send it to operator 2. After
completing the one and second operations, operator 2 sends the both operation to the operator 3.
After operation 3, the work is continued by the two operators performing operation 4 and so on.
5. One piece flow system or Progressive bundle system:
Progressive Bundle System (PBS) is also called one piece flow system or material handling system. It
is a traditional production system that widely used in garment manufacturing from early period to
still now. After complete the fabric cutting, then various components of fabric parts are to make
bundle and distributed to the sewing section. Bundle ticket is attached to cut parts. One operator is
tried to perform the same operation on all the parts in the bundle. When one operator finish his/her
work then garment bundles are move to other operator. For sewing a garment, numbers of
operators are needed. Bundles are handled by the Tied bundles, Bags, Pocketed bags, Boxes and
baskets, Bundle trucks, etc
6. Straight-line or Synchro- system:
To do garment manufacturing process, different operations are divided into several parts but the
fixed the same time to complete this operation. To complete only one garment group of operators
are needed. When one group of operators finish their work then it pass to the next operator.
Distribution may be done hand by hand or a conveyor belt.

In synchro- system different garment parts like collars, sleeves, cuffs, pocket etc with the same size,
color can be processed together. When all is done then all parts are send central line for assembling
a complete garment.
Mechanical system:
There are 5 types of production system in the apparel industry.
1. Assembly line production system:
Assembly line production system is mainly planned for a sequential organization. Each operator is
appointed only for one operation. Garment parts are move from operator to operator.
2. Overhead production system or Unit Production System (UPS):
For apparel manufacturing, advance mechanical system like overhead production system or unit
production system (UPS) is used widely. In this system a single garment is transferred automatically
via a computer-controlled overhead handling system to finish the sequence of each operation.
Advantages:
Automatically move the garment parts from one workplace to another work place.
Use one hanger that contains more clips to hang all the parts of garment.
Hanging carrier can be moving in both manual and computerized way.
Time consuming and little work-in-progress.
Number of machine can be adjusted.
Increase productivity and improve quality.
Reduced labor cost.
Disadvantages:
High investment required.
Need proper planning.
Handling equipments are highly expensive.
Special training required for labor.

19. 3. Selective conveyor belt system:
It is the very common mechanical equipment handling system. In conveyor system automatically
feed the materials or working containers to one operator to other. This system is more popular in
material handling and apparel manufacturing industries. For saving the time and quick production
this system is more effective.
A typical conveyor system is mainly three types:
Main conveyor
Top belt
Lower belt
4. Quick response sewing system:
Quick response sewing system specially use for small lot order. Every workstation will assemble with
4-5 machines. Operators are completed their all the operations in that station before it is moved to
other workstation. If there is a bottleneck in one section, the overload is automatically moved to
other stations where operator capacity is available. All the garment parts are hanged on the hanging
clamp that attached to the trolley. It is a computer controlled and overhead trolley system.
5. Modular Production Systems (MPS):
In modular production system, group of sewing operators work together to meet their goal
effectively. Usually 4-15 labors are work in one group. Every members of sewing team helps to each
other to make a high quality garment. For getting quick production this system is more effective.
Multi skilled operators are needed to do this operation. The sewing line layout is set in U –shaped. In
modular production system work-in-progress (WIP) is less.
Advantages:
Flexibility is high. .
Low wastages.
Employee absence will be low.
Produce high quality garment.



Compliance in Garment Industry
Compliance means conformity of certain standard. Every textile industry should maintain a
moderate working condition for their employees. Although the entire well established project try to
maintain well compliance but there are some lacking of proper compliance issues.
Here is the list of compliance in which some points are maintained fully & some are partially.
Following points are specially for garment industry:
❖ Compensation for holiday
❖ Leave with wages
❖ Health register
❖ Time care
❖ Accident register
❖ Workman register

20. ❖ Equal remuneration
❖ National festival holiday
❖ Overtime register
❖ Labor welfare
❖ Weekly holiday fund
❖ Sexual harassment policy
❖ Child labor abolition policy
❖ Anti Discrimination policy
❖ Zero abasement policy
❖ Working hour policy
❖ Hiring/Recruitment policy
❖ Environment policy
❖ Security policy
❖ Buyers code of conduct
❖ Health and safety committee
❖ Canteen
Health:
● Drinking water at least 4.5L/day/employee
● Cup availability
Health:
● Drinking water supply
● Water cooler, heater available in canteen
● Drinking water signs in native language & english locate minimum 20 feet away from work
place.
● Drinking water vessel clean at least once a week
● Water reserve at least once a week
● Water center in charge person with cleanliness
● Suggestion box register.

Toilet:
❏ Separate toilet for men & women.

21. ❏ A seat with proper privacy and lock facility
❏ Urinal accommodation
❏ Effective water sewage system
❏ Soap toilet
❏ Water tap
❏ Dust bins
❏ Toilet whitewashed one in every four month.
❏ Daily cleaning log sheet
❏ No smoking signs.

Toilet:
❏ ladies/gents toilet signs both in native language and english.
❏ Disposal of wastes & effluent.
Fire:
★ Sufficient fire extinguisher and active
★ Access area without hindrance
★ Fire signs in both languages
★ Fire certified personal photo
★ Emergency exit.

Safety Guard:
➢ Metal glows on good condition
➢ Rubber mats & ironers
➢ First aid box
➢ Ironers wearing sleepers
➢ First trained employees
➢ motor/needle guard
➢ Eye guard
➢ Nurse

22. ➢ Doctor
➢ Medicine
➢ Medicine issuing register
➢ Welfare officer
Others facilities:
➔ Room temperature
➔ Lighting facility
So, compliance ensures the working environment of the industry as well as the office. To protect the
human rights every management should ensure the above compliance policy.
Bangladesh has emerged as a key player in RMG (Ready Made Garment) sector since 1978. Textiles
and clothing account for about 85% of total export earnings of Bangladesh. Out of which, 76% comes
from the apparel sector which covers the major products of knit and woven shirts, blouses, trousers,
skirts, shorts, jackets, sweaters, sports wears and many more casual and fashion items. The sector
currently employs approximately 1.5 million workers, mostly females from underprivileged social
classes.
The pivotal factor in the apparel industry is the workforce i.e. the sewing operators, the helpers,
cutting masters, pattern makers, finishers etc.. Bangladesh is endowed with abundant and cheap
labour force that is easily trainable and convertible into semi-skilled and skilled workforce. Existence
of such category is one of the advantages that Bangladesh will be enjoying over a considerable
period in the context of international trade on clothing.
Quality of goods exported from Bangladesh has always been questioned by the foreign buyers due
to lack of experience and awareness of Garment manufacturers associated in the trade. In order to
export readymade garments, it is not only the quality parameters which are important towards
acceptance of the product as per the intended end use, but also the working environment in which
the garments are to be produced, is equally important so that sweatshop concept is totally taken
care of and the code of conduct must be stretched towards achieving the objectives of social
compliance issues. The core areas of social accountability are, basically, based on the principles of
international human rights, local culture and tradition. The prime objective of the system is to
protect the human rights in ready made garment industries. Thus, Bangladesh has a stiff challenge
ahead to meet the demand of world market.
In this lecture, some of the essential elements of social accountability pertaining to the apparel
sector of Bangladesh have been highlighted.
Social Accountability:
In today's fast changing global market, it is not only the quality of garments which cherished the
retailers and manufacturers but also the working environments of the organization wherein the
products were produced. Those are equally important to gain and strengthen consumer confidence
and to build-up more reliable relationships with vendors. In other words, specific code of conduct
that protects the basic human rights of the workforce engaged in the trade is to be respected to
satisfy consumers and to add social value to the product. Basic awareness of the social
accountability helps to understand and monitor the compliance part of it in protecting the image of
a particular brand of product.

23. In order to do so, the reputed and leading market players in the garment trade have imposed
compulsion on the related factories to achieve those objectives as a condition of the export contract.
Even the exports were either withheld or cancelled elsewhere in the event of non-compliance to
such issues.
Code of Conduct (COC):
Social Accountability standards have been developed by the international organizations such as Fair
Labor Association (FLA), Worldwide Responsible Apparel production (WRAP) , Council on Economic
Priorities Accreditation Agency (CEPAA), The Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) and Business for Social
Responsibility (BSR).
Reputed brand buyers in large supply chain have taken the guideline from those organizations and
formulated their own standard of COC and also the acceptance criteria.
The basic principles of COC have been derived from the principles of international human rights
norms as delineated in International Labour Organization Conventions, the United Nations
Convention on the Rights of the Child and the Universal Declaration of Human Rights.

It has nine core areas to be addressed upon. These are as follows:
❖ Child labour
❖ Forced labour
❖ Health and safety
❖ Compensation
❖ Working hours
❖ Discrimination
❖ Discipline
❖ Free association and collective bargaining
❖ Management systems

While following the above criteria is compulsory for satisfying COC, local culture and regulation of
Govt. can not be overlooked. For instance, limit of working hours and compensation for extra work
may not be the same for all geographical zones in the globe. Minimum basic wage also depends on
the economic situation of a particular country in question. The introduction of rights of free
association and collective bargaining is guided by the political environment, the maturity level of
workforce and above all the basic training of the management of the organization.
By keeping in mind the complex scenario, several case studies in Bangladesh have been made with
respect to the information obtained through actual social compliance audits performed by leading
auditors of internationally well known consumer products service companies.

Social compliance audits conducted as per the COC of different brand buyers of USA and Europe
were basically based on the following steps:

24. ➔ Opening meeting with the factory management (informed the scope of audit)
➔ Factory Tour (observed working condition)
➔ Document Review (payroll, time card, personal file, age documentation etc.)
➔ Employees Interview
➔ Closing meeting with factory management (discussed audit findings and recommended
necessary improvements).
Highlights of typical findings in different aspects of social accountability are described below.
Suggested corrective actions in typical cases are also indicated. Some of the non compliance issues
have also been photographed as shown in Plate no 1 to 6. This is to understand the actual scenario
of social compliance in different RMG factories in Bangladesh.

Management Systems:
Violation: Factory paid wages in installment throughout a month instead of disbursing the payment
within particular period of the next month.
Corrective Action: This is considered as a delayed payment. To comply with The Payments of Wages
Act of Bangladesh, 1937, wages shall be paid by 7th of the next month up to 1000 workers.
Violation: Employees punched their time cards two hours earlier (7 p.m.) than the actual time of
departure (9 p.m.) from the factory. Factory management wanted to hide the actual working hours.
Corrective Action: To comply with The Payment of Wages Rules, 1936 of Bangladesh, all working
hours shall be recorded in the time card.
Child Labour:
Violation: Child labour was found at the factory. It was confirmed from the verification of personal
document and the appearance of the employee. From the workers interview, it was understood that
one worker was about 13 years old.
Corrective Action: According to The Factory Act of 1968 in the Bangladesh Labour Code, any person
who has not completed sixteen years of age is defined as a child. Article 66 prohibits the
employment of any children under the age of fourteen. Factory management agreed to take care of
this matter.

Most child labourers have been cleared out of Bangladesh's RMG sector under international
pressure, but sporadic cases still exist due to economic reason.
Forced Labour:
No such cases were found wherein there was use of forced labour in the factories. Direct evidence
which indicates personnel shall require to lodge deposits or identity papers upon commencing
employment with the company was also not available.
Discrimination:
Violation: Factory management is reluctant to recruit employees from the area where the factory is
situated. This is not only to avoid local protests against working condition, but also due to fear of
post scenario of a disciplinary case. Thus, there is discrimination in hiring workforce.

25. Corrective Action: To comply with social accountability standard, recruitment shall not be biased
towards avoiding local candidate at the time of recruitment.
Disciplinary Practices:
Violation: Overtime wages of the workers were deducted as a means of punishment if they could
not achieve the daily production target.
Corrective Action: Employees, if fail to attend weekend work, were deliberately made absent for 2
to 3 days from his working period.
Violation: In one of the factories in Chittagong, Bangladesh working for a reputed brand of USA,
physical torture was reported for simple mistakes including no payment of wage.
Corrective Action: The factories shall not engage in or support the use of corporal punishment,
mental or physical coercion, and verbal abuse. Wages shall not be deducted as a form of
punishment.
Health & Safety:
Violation: Workers did not use gloves and/or masks while handling chemicals and dyes in chemical
storage area of Dyeing Department.
Corrective Action: In order to comply with The Factories Act, 1965, Chapter 3 and 4 of Bangladesh,
management shall provide adequate gloves and/or masks to the appropriate workers. They must be
motivated through training to use such protective equipment for safety.
Violation: Number of toilets in the production floor are not sufficient to cover all the employees.
Corrective Action: Factory shall construct sufficient number of toilets in accordance with The
Factories Act, 1965, Chapter- 3 and 4.
Health & Safety:
Violation: No soap and towels were there inside all the toilets in a factory.
Corrective Action: Soaps and towels are to be provided at all the toilets in the factory.
Violation: Fire extinguishers were found blocked in some areas of the factory and were not easily
accessible.
Corrective Action: All fire extinguishers shall be cleared from obstruction at all time. Area in front of
fire extinguishers shall be marked on the ground with yellow lines to indicate that the area must be
kept clear at all times.
Health & Safety:
Violation: Aisles were not marked at different sections of the factory.
Corrective Action: Factory shall put marking on the floor with yellow lines to indicate the evacuation
paths.
Violation: No evacuation plan was observed throughout the factory.
Corrective Action: Factory shall prepare and post evacuation plan at different areas of the factory to
facilitate smooth evacuation in the case of emergency.
Violation: Drinking water closets were found very near (2-3 feet) to the toilets.
Corrective Action: As per The Factories Act, 1965 of Bangladesh, factory shall place drinking water
closets at a minimum of 20 feet distance from the toilets.
Health & Safety:
Violation: Primary/secondary aisles were found blocked by fabric roll, cartons, garments etc. in
different sections of the factory. Electrical control panel was also found blocked.
Corrective Action: Factory, in accordance with The Factories Act in Bangladesh, shall make sure that
all the passages and control panels remain unblocked at all times.

26. Violation: No protective hand gloves were in use by the fabric cutting knife operators which might
cause serious accident at any time.
Corrective action: Factory management shall supply metal hand gloves to the operators and
motivate them to use such protective equipments for safety.
Freedom of Association and Collective Bargaining:
Violation: Employees were not permitted to bargain collectively about their requirements.
Corrective Action: All employees shall be permitted to bargain collectively about their rights.
Compensation and Working Hours:
Violation: Weekend and overnight worked hours were not recorded in the time cards and payroll
sheets and also not compensated properly.
Corrective Action: Factory shall record all worked hours in payroll sheets and time cards and shall
compensate those correctly. This is to satisfy The Payment of Wage Rules, 1937 of Bangladesh.
Violation: Female workers were working from 8 a.m. to 12 a.m. as overtime.
Corrective Action: Factory shall allow female workers to work between 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. only with a
view to comply with The Factories Act, 1965, Chapter-6, Bangladesh.
Violation: Overtime worked hours had exceeded the legal limits of stipulated hours per month with
a large margin.
Corrective Action: Factory shall not allow anyone to work more than 10 hours per day and 60 hours
per week. The duration of 60 hours per week shall be represented as 48 hours general duty plus 12
hours overtime as per the local law of Bangladesh.
Compensation and Working Hours:
Violation: Factory did not comply with the local law of Bangladesh in the payment of overtime
wages for all the workers in the factory.
Corrective Action: Factory shall follow legal requirement for overtime compensation, which is
double of the basic pay.
Current level of maintenance of compliance with hygiene and safety standards is not adequate and
the reported tragedies like the incidence of fire in the garment industry support the fact to a certain
degree. Such accidents seriously tarnish the image of Bangladesh and could cause buyers to turn to
countries where tragedies of this type are less likely or are hidden from the international press.
In spite of the promulgation of laws by the Government, the majority of garment workers remain
deprived of their legal rights. Laws are there in the papers but its implementation is not always felt
while looking at it from the micro level right on the ground. Some of the issues which still remain
neglected are:
i) Minimum basic salary, ii) Working hours, iii) Overtime calculation, iv) Off day in a week and v)
Yearly increment.
Compensation and Working Hours:
It is worthwhile to mention that the workers engaged in the factories inside Export Processing Zones
in Bangladesh enjoy better working environment than the workers outside the Export Processing
Zones. This has attracted many foreign investors in the zone wherein Bangladesh Export Processing
Zone Authority (BEPZA) has recently adopted a policy to safeguard the legitimate rights of workers
by the formation of Workers Welfare Committee (WWC) at each enterprise. In fact, in the context of
prohibition of trade union as per BEPZA Act, it is regarded as a constructive effort to fulfill the
requirement of freedom of association and collective bargaining.

27. Recent Incident In Non-Compliance Factory:
The second fire incident at a garment factory in Dhaka city after the one at Tazreen last November
has intensified the debate over the compliance issue. This is putting lives and livelihood of thousands
of workers at risk. Maintenance of links in a properly operational supply-chain that can feed stores
around the world without putting the country's garment workers at stake is the challenge for its
apparel industries.
The global attention is now focused on the Bangladesh garment industry. How far the fatal fire
incidents will leave a negative impact on the whole readymade garment (RMG) sector, is not yet
clearly known
Recent Incident In Non-Compliance Factory:
Being worried about issues relating to labour standards in Bangladesh, the US apparel buyers are
now putting pressure on the RMG makers here to ensure proper compliance with such standards in
the sector. The buyers in the overseas markets are now more concerned about the issue; they have
called upon the government of Bangladesh to monitor such a situation at the RMG units. The new
Congress in the USA has attached a priority to it.

The ministry of foreign affairs (MoFA) has recently received complaints from some US major apparel
buyers about a considerable number of RMG units "flouting" the labour and other related standards.
Most of the RMG workers' birth registration and payment system are not authentic. Raising
objections to the accounts structure in the Bangladesh apparel factories, they said the RMG makers
in most of the cases show fake ones. They also expressed concern over major loopholes of the
compliance system in textile sector in Bangladesh.
PREPARED BY
MD RAKIB HASAN