Biological aspects of skin cosmetics

Skin care is the range of practices that support skin integrity, enhance its appearance, and relieve skin conditions. They can include nutrition, avoidance of excessive sun exposure, and appropriate use of emollients. Practices that enhance appearance include the use of cosmetics, botulinum, exfoliation, fillers, laser resurfacing, microdermabrasion, peels, and retinol therapy.

1. Biological aspects of skin cosmetics Prepared By- Sachin M. Chandankar Dept of Pharmaceutics 1

2. CONTENTS Introduction History Classification of cosmetics. Skin structure Skin related problems and their solution: dry skin, acne, pigmentation, prickly heat , wrinkles and body odour . Conclusion References 2

3. INTRODUCTION The word ‘cosmetics’ arises from Greek word ‘kosmeticos’ which means to adorn. Since that time any material used for beautification or improvement of appearance is known as cosmetics. According to regulatory definition cosmetics is article intended to be “rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or part there of for cleaning, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance of skin,” i. e., the product can not alter the structure or function of skin. Some alter the structure and/or function of skin, thus, according to the regulatory definition, these could be categorized as drugs. 3

4. HISTORY Egyptians were the first to recognize the health properties of cosmetics. Up to the 19 th century, there was no clear distinction between cosmetics and Pharmaceuticals. The separation occurred when the first modern pharmaceutical industry was developed. Cosmeceuticals rapidly expanded in the 1980 s due to hydroxy acids (natural fruit acids) used as exfoliants against wrinkles. Raymond Reed ,founding member of the United States Society of Cosmetic Chemists , coined the term ‘Cosmeceutical’ in 1961. In 1971, Albert Klingman reactivated interest in cosmeceuticals by developing a formula to improve the appearance of UV damaged and wrinkled skin ,using retinoic acid. 4

5. Classification of cosmetics Cosmetics classify according their site of application . Skin :- powders , creams, lotions etc. Nail :- nail polish. Teeth :-tooth powder, paste. Eye :- eye creams, eye lotion etc. Hair :- shampoo, hair remover . 5

6. Physiology of skin Skin is the largest organ of the body. It is a protective covering for the skeletal system and vital organs. It contains many special structures including : follicles, hair, nails, sweat glands and sebaceous glands. Skin is very elastic and at the surface is a dead substance which is constantly being shed and replaced by new growth. Skin is composed of a protein known as keratin. Hair is also composed of this substance. 6

7. Structure of Skin The different layers, nerves &glands of the skin are known as the structure of the skin. There are three layers of the skin 1.Epidermis 2.Dermis 3.Subcutaneous tissue 7

8. The epidermis The epidermis is the outer or top layer and is made up of five sub layers . From the top layer they are called: 8

9. The dermis layer This layer is under the epidermis layer and is some times called the true skin. This layer contains the blood vessels. These divide into a network of smaller vessels called capillaries. The blood supplies essential materials for growth, nourishment and repair of the skin. Nerves found in the dermis layer are sensitive to pressure, pain, heat, touch and cold. The nerves of the skin act as warning systems to the body and alert us to temperature changes, degrees of pressure, whether some thing is hard or soft. The body will react to pain, pressure or degrees of temperature. 9

10. The subcutaneous layer Hypodermis: This is a layer of fatty tissue between the dermis & muscles & bones. It protects you from injury & helps to keep you warm. 10

11. Function of skin Sensation Protection Excretion Absorption Regulation Secretion 11

12. Cosmetics for skin : Powder and compact : important category of skin care preparation. Widely used for body not only by women but also by men. Main substances are use for preparation of power are titanium dioxide , zinc oxide, magnesium stearate, zinc stearate, purified talc and calcium salt. Skin creams and lotion : creams are those solid or semi solid emulsion which are either o/w or w/o type. Depending upon main ingredients and purpose of the formulation they broadly classify as Make up creams Cleansing creams Creams for winter Cream for dry skins Night creams Skin protective and hand creams All purpose creams 12

13. Suntan and Anti-sunburn preparation : the purpose of suntan preparation is to assist skin in tanning without painful effect and the purpose of sun burn preparation is to minimize the harmful effect of sunburn. Skin colorant : coloring skin, particularly skin of face and lips eg: lipstick 13

14. Skin related problem and their solution : dry skin C h a ppin g a n d c r ac kin g a r e sign s of e xt r e m e ly dr y , d e hydr a t e d s kin. I t look s dull, e s p ec i a lly o n th e c h ee k s a n d a roun d th e e y e s. T h e r e m a y b e tin y e x pr e ssio n lin e s o n th e se s pots a n d a t th e c o m e r s of th e m ou th D r y s k in h a s a lo w l e v e l of s e bu m a n d ca n b e pron e to s e nsitivit y . I t u s u a lly f ee ls " t ight “ an d un c o m fo r tab le a f t e r wa s hin g unl e ss s o m e ty p e of m oisturi ze r or s k in c r ea m is a ppli e d. 14

15. Ca u s es T h e oil gl a nd s d o not su pp ly e noug h lu bri ca tio n to th e s kin. A s a r e s ult, th e s k in b ec o m e s d e hydr a t e d. D r y s k in c ou ld b e du e to a g e n e tic c ondition. Poor di e t. N ut r ition a l d e f i c i e n c i e s, e s p ec i a lly d e f i c i e n c i e s of vit a m in A a n d th e B vit a m ins, ca n a lso c ont r ibu te to dr y s kin. E nviron m e nt a l f ac tor s s u c h a s e x po s ur e to s un, w ind, c old, c h e m i ca ls, or c o s m e ti c s, or e x ce ssiv e b a thin g w ith h a r sh s o a ps. C ondition s s u c h a s d e r m a titis, ecze m a , p s ori a sis, or s e borrh ea . 15

16. Ho w t o car e f o r d r y s k i n D r y s k in n ee d s pl e n ty of thoroug h but g e ntle c l ea nsing, r e gul a r sti m ul a tio n w ith m a ss a g e a n d g e n e rou s qu a ntiti e s of oil a n d m oistur e . I t a lso n ee d s e xt r a ca r e ful prot ec tion. W a s hin g dr y s k in w ith s o a p a n d wa t e r not on ly r e m ov e s gri m e but a lso th e n a tur a l oils prot ec tin g th e s kin. A m oisturi ze r in c r ea s e s th e wa t e r c ont e nt of th e out e r l a y e r s of th e s k in a n d giv e s it a s oft, m oist look. 16

17. D ie t r e c o mm e n d at io ns f o r dry s k i n Ea t a b a l a n ce d di e t th a t in c lud e s v e g e t a bl e s, fruits, gr a ins, s ee ds, a n d nuts. D r in k a t l ea st 2 qu a r ts of qu a lity wa t e r e v e r y d a y to k e e p th e s k in we ll hydr a t e d. Ea t food s s u c h a s g a r li c , onions, e ggs, a n d a s p a r a gu s th a t a r e hig h in s ulfu r , w hi c h h e lp s to k e e p th e s k in s m oo th a n d youthful. 17

18. ACNE Ac n e is a n infl a mm a tor y s k in c onditio n th a t o cc ur s w h e n oil a n d d ea d s k in ce lls blo c k th e por e o p e ning, ca usin g s e bu m (oil) to build up insid e th e por e Li f e c ycle O F ACNE  S t a g e 1: C logg e d P o r e s . C e lls linin g po r e s s h e d a n d m ix w ith e x ce ss s e bu m p r odu ce d b y s e b ace ou s gl a nds, f o r m in g a plug, w hi c h l ea d s to c logg e d po r e s. S t a g e 2: Bac t e r i a . Acc u m ul a t e d s e bu m a n d d ea d ce lls a tt r ac t th e P . ac n e s (or pr o pionib ac t e r i u m ) b ac t e r ia n a tur a lly foun d in s kin, w hi c h f ee d s o n oil a n d m ultipli e s r a pid ly insid e por e s. S t a g e 3: Infl a mm a tion . T his b ac t e r i a l ov e r gro w th t r igg e r s th e n a tur a l infl a mm a tor y r e s pon se ca usin g s we llin g a n d r e dn e ss. T his ca n ulti m a t e ly l ea d to dis c olor a tio n a n d s ca rr in g 18

19. 2 19

20. 20 Treatmetns F r equent w a s h i ng w it h s oa p a nd w a t e r. A n ti - i n f l a mm a t ory drugs t o i nhi b i t P . acne s (b ac t e r i a ). U s e an ti -b i o t ic , f or exa m p l e t e t r a c yc li ne , e r y t hr o m yc i n or c o- t r i m oxazo l e e t c . t o c urb t he gro w t h of b ac t e r i a a nd r educe i n f l a mm a ti on. U s e an ti - a ndr oge n ( e .g. or al con t r ace p t i ve p ill s) t o r egu l a t e a ndr oge n, t o pr event exce ss s e b um pr oduc ti on. T h i s m e t hod i s on l y s u it a b l e f or w o m e n.

21. Pigmentation S k i n co l or i s gene r a l l y due t o m e l an i n M e l an i n i s s yn t he s i s e d by m e l anocy t e s w it h i n m e l a nos o m e s a nd t r a ns f e rr e d t o ke r a ti nocy t e s H u m a n b e i ngs co m e i n a g l or i ous sp ec t r um of d i f f e r ent co l ors : li gh t ,da rk , p l a i n or f r eck l y s k i n; S k i n p i g m en t a ti on ha s f a r –r each i ng s oc i al a nd ps ycho l og i cal i m p li ca t i ons. M e l an i n p i g m en t a ti on d i sor de rs a r e i m por t ant f or m ed i cal a nd c os m e ti c r ea sons

22. Synthesis Of Melanin

23. 23

24. Cosmetics for pigmentation Hydroquinone (tyrosinase inhibitor). Corticoid containing creams. Vitamin A. Glycolic acid. Corticoid (dextramethason). Retinoic acid. 24

25. P r i ck l y he a t C o mm on l y ca ll e d heat r a sh or m ili a r i a . I t i s ca us e d by o bs t r uc ti on t o t he s weat duc t s. S k i n ca r e i s t he m a i n t r ea t m en t . I t i s heat r a sh cha r ac t e r i z e d by it c hy r e d sp o t s w h i c h deve lo p on t he che s t ,unde r t he a r m p it s a nd b e t w ee n t he t h i ghs i n t he hot coun t r i e s. B a s i ca ll y ca us e d by b l ocke d s weat g l a nds. O cc urs w he n s weat cannot f r ee l y eva por a t e f r om t he s k i n a nd s weat duc t s b eco m e p l ugge d. T h i s i n f l a mm a ti on ca n ca us e a r e d r a sh. C a n b e pr even t e d by w ea r i ng c l o t he s t hat a ll ow s weat t o eva por a t e a s w e l l a s b a t h i ng r egu l a r l y a nd dr y i ng t he s k i n 25

26. P rev e nt io n D r i nk p l en t y of cool w a t e r or e l ec t r o l y t e r e p l ace m ent f l u i ds eve n i f not t h i rs t y . ( O ne s m a l l c u p eve ry 15-20 . B e a b l e t o r ecogn i ze ea r l y s i gns & s y m p t o m s of heat i nduce d ill ne ss a nd t ake a ppr o pr i a t e ac ti on t o pr event s e r i ous heat d i sor de rs. S p e nd a s lit t l e ti m e a s poss i b l e i n d i r ect s un li gh t . T ake f r equent br ea ks i n coo l , s hade d a r ea s. W ea r li gh t , l oos e f itti ng, c l o t h i ng. A vo i d ca f f e i ne , w h i c h ca n m ake t he body l os e w a t e r . 26

27. W r i nkle s Li ne s a nd c r ea s e s t hat f or m i n s k i n. S o m e w r i nk l e s ca n b eco m e dee p c r ev i ce s or f urro w s a nd m a y b e e sp ec i a l l y no ti cea b l e a round your eye s, m ou t h a nd nec k. Cau s e s A ge . L e ss e l a s ti c a nd m or e f r ag il e . D ec r ea s e d pr oduc ti on of na t ur al o il s dr i e s s k i n a nd m ake s i t a pp ea r m or e w r i nk l e d. F at i n t he dee p e r l aye rs of s k i n d i m i n i s he s. T h i s ca us e s l oos e , s a ggy s k i n a nd m or e -pr onounce d li ne s a nd c r ev i ce s. E x posur e t o u lt r av i o l et ( uv ) li ght w h i c h sp ee ds t he na t ur al ag i ng pr oce ss, i s t he pr i m a ry ca us e of ea r l y w r i nk li ng. E x posur e t o U V li ght br ea ks do w n s k i n ' s connec ti ve ti ss ue — co ll age n a nd e l a s t i n fi b e rs, w h i c h li e i n t he dee p e r l aye r of s k i n ( de r m i s). W it hout t he s u ppor ti ve connec ti ve ti ss ue , s k i n l os e s s t r eng t h a nd f l exi b il it y . S k i n t he n b eg i ns t o s a g a nd w r i nk l e pr e m a t ur e l y . 27

28. S mo k in g . S m ok i ng ca n acce l e r a t e t he nor m al ag i ng pr oce ss of s k i n, con t r i b u t i ng t o w r i nk l e s. T h i s m a y b e due t o change s i n t he b l ood s u pp l y t o s k i n. R e p e at e d f ac i al e x p r e ss i o n s . F ac i al m ove m en t s a nd e x pr e ss i ons, s uc h a s s qu i n ti ng or s m ili ng, l ea d t o f i ne li ne s a nd w r i nk l e s. E ac h ti m e us i ng a f ac i al m us c l e , a gr oove f or m s b enea t h t he sur f ace of t he s k i n. A nd a s s k i n age s, i t l os e s it s f l exi b il it y a nd i s no l onge r a b l e t o spr i ng b ac k i n p l ace . T he s e gr oove s t he n b eco m e p e r m anent f ea t ur e s on your f ace 28

29. Tre a tme n t s T o pi cal r e t in o id s. D e r i ve d f r om v it a m i n A , r e ti no i ds — s uc h a s t r e ti no i n ( R enova , R e ti n A ) a nd t aza r o t ene ( A vage , T az or ac ) — t hat m a y r educe f i ne w r i nk l e s, sp l o t che s a nd s k i n r oughne ss. B eca us e r e ti no i ds ca n m ake s k i n burn m or e ea s il y , nee d t o us e a br oa d sp ec t r um suns c r ee n a nd w ea r pr o t ec ti ve c l o t h i ng da il y . R e ti no i ds m a y ca us e r edne ss, dr yne ss, it ch i ng, a nd a bur n i ng or ti ng li ng s e ns a ti on N o np r e s cr ip t i on w r in k l e c r e ams : de p e nds i n p a r t on t he ac ti ve i ngr ed i en t s. R e ti no l , an ti ox i dan t s a nd s o m e p e p ti de s m a y r e s u l t i n s li ght t o m ode s t i m pr ove m en t s : r e s u lt s a r e li m it e d a nd us ua ll y shor tli ve d . Plump up with moisturizer. Don’t over do anti-aging creams. 29

30. B od y odour Sm e l l of b ac t e r i a gro w i ng on t he bod y , b ut i t i s ac t ua l l y t he r e s u l t of b ac t e r i a br eak i ng do w n pr o t e i n i n t o ce r t a i n ac i ds, li nke d t o t he a p oc r i ne g l a nds. b eco m e s ev i dent i f m ea sur e s a r e not t ake n w he n a hu m a n r eache s p u b e r t y . P e o p l e w ho a r e o b e s e , t hos e w ho r egu l a r l y eat s pi c y foo d s , a s w e l l a s i nd i v i dua l s w it h ce r t a i n m ed i cal cond iti ons, s uc h a s di a b e t e s , a r e m or e sus ce p t i b l e t o hav i ng body odo r . P e o p l e w ho s weat t oo m uc h, s uc h a s t hos e w it h h y p er hid r os i s, m a y a l so b e sus ce p t i b l e t o body odo r . H o w eve r , o f t e n t he s a l t l evel of t he i r s weat i s t oo h i gh f or t he b ac t e r i a t o br ea k do w n. 30

31. Pr e v e ntio n T r e atm e nts W ash d a il y w i th w ar m w at er C l ot hin g A vo i d s pi c y foo d s A lu m inu m c hl or id e B ot ulinu m t ox in : 2 inj ec t i ons of b o t u li num t ox i n i n t he a r m p it s - a pr oce dur e t hat s hou l d not l a s t m or e t ha n 45 m i nu t e s. T he t ox i n b l oc ks t he s i gna l s f r om t he br a i n t o t he s weat g l a nds, r e s u lti ng i n l e ss s w ea ti ng i n t he t a r ge t e d a r ea . O ne t r ea t m ent ca n l a s t f r om t w o t o e i ght m on t hs . 31 K ee p t he a r m p it s c l ea n D e odor ant or an t i p e rsp i r a nt

32. Conclusion Skin is the major organ of body and skin care is most important part of cosmetics. For treating disorder or enhancing the appearance of skin first have to understand the physiology and function of skin. now a day’s there is huge competition in pharmaceutical industry for the formulation of cosmetics for skin. 32

33. References A Handbook of Cosmetics by B.M. MITHAL and R.N.SHAHA 1 st edition, 2000, vallabh prakashan http://www.skinpharmacies.ca/3_1_1.html http://pharmalicensing.com/public/articles/view/1124121306_4300bada8254d/cosmeceuticals-cosmetics-pharmaceuticals http://www.rivm.nl/bibliotheek/rapporten/320104001.pdf http://www.laboratoriosilesia.com/upfiles/sibi/D0307150.pdf. Preetha J. Padma, Dept of Pharmaceutics,K.M.C.H College of pharmacy,International Journal of ChemTech Research, Vol.1, No.4, pp 1217-1223. Sharma P.P, Cosmetics formulation, manufacturing and quality control 4 th Edition,(2010) Vandana Publictions Delhi. 33