Brandix Apparel India - Apparel Internship Report

AbhishekRaj24 9,693 views 189 slides Jun 11, 2018
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About This Presentation

A project report of apparel internship in Brandix Apparel India


Slide Content

BRANDIX APPAREL INDIA
Unit - I
Abstract
A brief introduction to Brandix, Brandix India Apparel City, Organization and
Departmental work procedure of Brandix Apparel India
apparel india

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CONTENTS
S. NO. TITLE PAGE NO.
1. INTRODUCTION – BRANDIX 10
1.2 Value and Vision of Brandix 11
1.3 Board Of Directors 12
1.4 Brandix Organization Culture 12
1.5 Milestons 13
1.6 Achievements 15
2. BIAC – BRANDIX INDIA APPAREL CITY 18
3. BRANDIX APPAREL INDIA – UNIT-I 21
3.1 Current Buyer of BAI-1 21
3.2 Organizational Structure 22
3.3 Plant Layout 23
4. DEPARTMENTAL STUDY 24
4.1 Sampling 24
4.2 Planning and Sourcing 27
4.3 Raw Material Warehouse 30
4.4 Spreading and Cutting 41
4.5 CAD Section 45
4.6 Production 49
4.7 Quality 55
4.8 Finish Goods and Surplus 61
4.9 Central Inspection (MAST) 68
4.10 Logistics 74
4.11 Industrial Engineering (Work Study) 76
4.12 Industrial Engineering (Maintenance) 79
4.13 HR Training and Development 81

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1. INTRODUCTION
1.1. BRANDIX LANKA – HOLDING COMPANY
The Brandix Group is the largest exporter of apparel in Sri Lanka. As the holding
company of the Brandix Group of companies, it is engaged in developing,
manufacturing and marketing end-to-end apparel solutions to global fashion super
brands. A peek into an exclusive portfolio reveals Victoria’s Secret, Gap, Lands’ End,
Lane Bryant and Marks and Spencer, amongst other excellent company.
Brandix Lanka is the hub from which all centralized services are provided. These
include:
 Corporate HR
 Corporate ICT
 Corporate Finance
 Corporate Social Responsibility
 Corporate Marketing and Branding
 Treasury Management
 Legal and Secretarial Services
 Tax Planning
 Compliance
 BOI Relations
 Risk and Control
 Engineering and Environment Management
In addition, it is responsible for Corporate Communications, Management Information
System and Communication Infrastructure. It drives the Group’s brand equity and
strategic concepts including its considerable investments for local and regional
expansion, and establishes and monitors Group-wide adherence to corporate
governance and CSR and environmental initiatives.
The company specializes in casual bottoms, intimate and active wear, woven and
knitted fabrics and a host of apparel industry accessories. Producing their own fabric,
threads, buttons and hangers give them their most tactical edge in textiles and
reinforces their core strengths of advanced research and development, outstanding
design, fabric printing, washing, dyeing, wet processing, finishing, and relentless quality
control services with fastest turnaround times. Embedding and integrating these
services into seamless verticality is the value chain the Group offers its customers.
A single manufacturing facility in 1972 was the springboard to the 42 plants island-wide
and supports the Group and employ over 47,000 people directly. Brandix Lanka Ltd was
founded in 2002 and pioneered the concept of holistic apparel solutions from a unique,
customer-centric structure. A concerted initiative to facilitate the vision of achieving

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manufacturing and supply chain excellence, and working closely with their partners,
Brandix Lanka provide truly inspired solutions.
With a vision “To be THE inspired solution for branded clothing”, Brandix has been the
pioneer of the concept of ‘total solutions’ in Sri Lanka’s apparel sector.
Their strong competencies in product development, manufacturing and marketing, are
complimented by their most significant advantage in textiles and accessories. Brandix
also provides customers with R&D, washing, dyeing, finishing, and quality control
services. They employ over 47,000 associates across 42 manufacturing locations in Sri
Lanka, India and Bangladesh.
Brandix Group Companies Include:
1. Brandix Asia
2. Brandix Apparel
3. Brandix Apparel Solutions Limited(BASL)
- Casual
- Intimate Apparel
- Essentials
- Lingerie
- Finishing
4. Brandix Apparel India
5. Brandix Casual wear Bangladesh Ltd
6. Brandix Textiles
7. Brandix i3
8. Brandix College of Clothing Technology
Brandix Joint Ventures Include:
1. Quenby Lanka Prints (Pvt) Ltd
2. T & S Button Ltd
3. Textured Jersey Lanka PLC
4. Ocean Lanka Ltd
5. Ocean India
6. Pioneer Elastic
7. Leading Investment Holding Ltd
1.2. VALUES
 Integrity
 Teamwork
 Customer Service
 Learning & Development
 Ownership & Commitment

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1.3. VISION
“To be the inspired solution for branded clothing”
1.1. BOARD OF DIRECTORS

Left to right: Udena Wickremasooriya, Trevine Jayasekara, Ajit Johnpillai, Ashroff
Omar, Aslam Omar, Ken Balendra, Feroz Omar
Chairman- Mr. Priyan Ferhando
Chief Executive Officer- Mr. Ashroff Omar
Sector Director- Mr. Aslam Omar
Sector Director- Mr. Feroz Omar
Director- Mr. Ajit Johnpillai, Udena Wickremasooriya, Trevine Jayasekara

1.4. BRANDIX ORGANIZATION CULTURE
The Brandix Way of Life is their culture and
permeates there whole organization. The
Brandix corporate 'personality' is determined
by three overlapping areas: values, work
culture and social responsibility. Their way
of working is all about accepting and
embracing their values, and acting with
social responsibility. It's also about a young and dynamic entity which supports its
personalities to blossom in a vibrant environment.
The 'Pat on the back' initiative promotes instant appreciation of behavior and
performance among colleagues. Their new programme GLOW (Great Lift off Work)
enables social interaction and the annual Brandix Nite celebrates outstanding executive
team and individual performance.

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1.5. MILESTONES
Year Achievement
1972

Established Lux Shirts (Pvt.) Ltd.

1981

Acquired Kuruwita Textile Mills Ltd

1986

Acquired LM Apparel (Pvt) Ltd

1990

Thread joint venture forms A&E Lanka (Pvt) Ltd

1991

Acquired Gil Garments (Pvt) Ltd

1992

Acquired Phoenix Fashions (Pvt) Ltd
Established Lux Shirts Kahawatta (Pvt) Ltd
Acquired Kuruwita Manchester Textile Mills Ltd.

1993

Commissioned Kuruwita Textile Plant.
Established LM Collections (Pvt) Ltd
Acquired Eden Fashions (Pvt) Ltd
Formed Mast Lanka (Pvt) Ltd

1996


Established Eden Fashions (Maldives), Pvt. Ltd.
Invested in Ocean Lanka (Pvt) Ltd.
Established Finitex Textile Finishing (Pvt) Ltd
Established Phoenix College of Clothing Technology (Pvt) Ltd
1998

Buttons joint venture forms DTM Buttons (Pvt) Ltd.
1999

Established Phoenix Clothing (Pvt) Ltd

2000

Printing joint venture formsQuenby Lanka Prints (Pvt) Ltd
Acquired Lakeside Garments (Pvt) Ltd
Joint venture forms Comfort wear (Pvt) Ltd
Invested in Textured Jersey Lanka (Pvt) Ltd

2001


Joint venture with Colombia Clothing Co Ltd

2002

Formed Brandix Lanka Ltd; "Brandix" - a new name, a new identity
View Logo Formation Video

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2003


Strategic acquisition of Mast Industries' equity interests in our joint-
ventures
Merger with the Jewelex Group.
Restructure of Brandix Group into Apparel, Textile and Accessories
sectors
2004

Hanger’s joint venture formed A&E Brandix Hangers

2005


Established the Brandix Centre of Inspiration
Established the Automated Denim Plant
Established Brandix Active wear Ltd
MOU signed with Government of India for Brandix Apparel City, India
2006

Brandix India Apparel City: launch of first manufacturing unit.
Garment Dyeing Joint-Venture: Stevenson’s Lanka.
Brandix Green Textile Processing Park, Horana: signed MOU with
Government of Sri Lanka.

2007

Brandix was ranked as the country's largest apparel exporter for 2006-07
by the Export Development Board, Sri Lanka.

2008

Brandix was once again ranked as the country's largest apparel exporter
for 2007-08 by the Export Development Board, Sri Lanka.
The newly converted Brandix Eco Centre in Seeduwa was ceremonially
inaugurated in April.
The Brandix Casual wear plant in Seeduwa achieved a global first in
August when it received the Platinum rating under the Leadership in
Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building Rating System
of the US Green Building Council (USGBC).

2009

Brandix Lanka was rated Platinum in the Corporate Accountability Rating
Survey.
The Brandix Green Project was judged as the National Winner for Sri
Lanka at the Energy Globe Awards 2008 presented by the Energy Globe
Foundation.
Brandix Lanka Limited won the Corporate Social Responsibility Award
presented by the YPO-WPO Social Enterprise Network, USA.
Textured Jersey launched the in-region fleece programme for Victoria's
Secret PINK.

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Brandix was commended by the United Nations Global Compact as an
example of good CSR practice and compliance with the principles of the
UNGC.

The Ceylon Chamber of Commerce recognized Brandix to be among the
Top 10 Best Corporate Citizens for the year 2009.

2010

The "Brandix Active wear" Company name was transformed to "Brandix
Essentials" in order to reflect the change in product focuses,
specialization and future business direction.


1.6. ACHIEVEMENTS
LEED Certification
Brandix is proud to receive the recent global recognition for its Eco Centre in Seeduwa for
Brandix Casualwear. The plant received Platinum rating in August 2008 under the
Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building Rating System of
the US Green Building Council (USGBC).
The rating is a third party certification programme and America's benchmark for design,
construction and operation of high performance green buildings. It encourages and
hastens global adoption of sustainable eco-friendly building and development practices.
Brandix Casualwear Seeduwa is the Group's lead manufacturing plant for Marks &
Spencer.
WRAP (Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production)
WRAP (Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production) is the most recognized compliance
standard in the United States for the apparel industry. It is an independent, non-profit
organization that endorses the certification of lawful, humane and ethical manufacturing of
apparel throughout the world.
SA8000 (Social Accountability)
Brandix has been accredited the SA 8000 Social Accountability standards established by
New York based Social Accountability International (SAI). The organisation promotes the
global improvement of human rights for workers by collaborating with a range of
organizations including companies, trade unions and governments.
Fair Trade
Brandix Textiles (BTL) accomplished another national first when its plant in Makandura
received its Fair Trade certification from the Institute for Market ecology (IMO) of

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Switzerland. The company is Sri Lanka's largest woven fabric processor and the award is
an important development for it and the country. Another Brandix Group company, Brandix
Casual wear, Giritale, has also received this certification while Quenby Lanka Prints is in
the process of obtaining it.

OE100 (Organic Exchange)
The OE 100 certification from Organic Exchange (OE) is a set of industry compliance
standards for the global organic cotton textile industry. Within the Brandix Group, seven
companies have received this certificate and one, Quenby Prints Lanka, is in the process
of obtaining this important award. The Organic Exchange is a non-profit organisation that
promotes the global organic cotton industry and its members include many top
international retailers who have added organic cotton products into their offerings.
GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)
Several of the Brandix Casual wear facilities in Sri Lanka have already received GOTS
(Global Organic Textile Standard) certification during the final quarter of 2007-08. This
global recognition of organic textile authenticity standards covers the production,
processing, manufacturing, packaging, labeling, export, import and distribution of all
natural fibers.
The plants include those at Pollonnaruwa, Giritale, Katunayake, Seeduwa, Ekala and Jaela.
Other plants that have also received the certification are the Brandix Apparel at Rheinland
Place, Colombo and Brandix Finishing at Ratmalana.

ISO 9001
The ISO 9001 certification is part of a suite of a system of quality management standards
stipulated by the international Organisation for Standardization (ISO). Currently, Brandix
Intimates, Katunayake, is ISO 9001 certified. What this means is that the company is
required to meet the customer's quality and regulatory requirements in order to provide
customer satisfaction and maintain an improved performance to address and maintain
quality management.
ISO 14001
The ISO 9001 certification is part of a family that covers environmental management
standards developed by the International Organisation for Standardization (ISO). To
comply with this standard, an organisation needs to minimize harmful impact on the
environment by its activities, and to maintain these in keeping with an improved
environmental performance. Currently, Brandix Finishing Ltd plants, The A&E facility and
Brandix Textiles Ltd have been awarded this certification.

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OHSAS 18001 (Occupational Health & Safety Assessment Series)
The OHSAS 18000 is an international occupational health and safety management system
specification which seeks to promote various improvements in the working environment.
The accreditation also encourages continuous progress in workplace health and safety by
helping to minimize risk to employees, improve an existing similar system, demonstrate
diligence and gain assurance, etc. Within the Brandix Group, Brandix Casual wear,
Seeduwa, has been accredited with this internationally renowned standard.

Other Achievements
1. Sri Lanka's largest apparel exporter and third largest exporter overall for 2007-08,
by the Export Development Board (EDB)
2. Sri Lanka's largest apparel exporter and second largest exporter overall for 2006-07,
by the Export Development Board (EDB)
3. Presidential Export Awards - Award for Highest Net Foreign Exchange Earner in 2005
4. Presidential Export Awards - Most Outstanding Exporter in the Apparel Sector in 2005
5. Brandix Finishing, the Group's flagship 'Green' company, was recognized by a
Community Leader Silver Award in 2005 for Waste Minimization Practices, a
President's Environment Award in 2005 for Industrial Environmental Excellence and
ISO 14001:2004 certification
6. Brandix Finishing was presented the Gold Award at the International Green Apple
Environmental Awards conferred by the The Green Organization, UK for the
innovative efforts taken to achieve zero disposal of solid waste and sludge to landfill
7. Most Outstanding Exporter Award - National Awards for Export Excellence (NAEE)
in 2003
8. Gold Award in the Apparel Sector - National Awards for Export Excellence (NAEE) in
2003
9. The Award for Excellence in Social Responsibility in the 'Preservation of the
Environment' category from the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA)
presented to A&E Lanka
10. Selected as a success story in using Cleaner Production Techniques (CPT) in the
textile finishing sector with its case
11. Study being presented at the Directors' meeting of National Cleaner Production
Centre (NCPC) at the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO)
in Interlaken, Switzerland.

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2. INTRODUCTION TO BIAC - BRANDIX INDIA APPAREL CITY
India is the 2
nd
fastest growing economy in the world and is globally becoming a
manufacturing epicenter. Located on the East- Coast in the state of Andhra Pradesh,
Visakhapatnam is home to one of India’s largest sea ports.
Just 50kms south of Vizag lies the Brandix India Apparel City. – BIAC. BIAC is the only
fully operation special economic zone in India dedicated to textile and apparel
manufacturing.

With a vertically integrated supply chain and dramatically reducing lead times and costs,
BIAC is positioned o be the preferred global sourcing hub for apparel solutions.
The inspired creation of Brandix, Sri Lanka’s single largest apparel exporter, BIAC hosts
manufacturers producing for leading labels such as

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BIAC helps both producers and buyers to source all their materials requirements from
within the park.
The supply chain concept of BIAC is a one-stop shop for both garment producers and
buyers. The areas surrounding the park is a vast labor pool which is easily trainable and
cost effective.

India is the 2
nd
largest producer of cotton in the world, and the state of Andhra Pradesh is
the 3
rd
largest producer within the country which offers reliable and cost effective source of
raw materials.
A dedicated substation within the park with 3 secure connects directly to the state grids
ensures ample power supply for all manufacturing needs. The Godavari river and a 400
million liters of rain water harvesting pond provides the park with an ample supply of water.
With ultramodern water treatment facilities in the park is capable of treating 60 millions of
raw water a day. The park’s common effluent treatment plant meets the strictest
environmental standards and is capable of treating 56 millions of effluent discharge per
day, which is then piped 9kms and discharged off-shore via the park’s 7.5million dollar
marine outfall pipeline.
BIAC’s ISO 14001 certified environment management system guarantees continuous
compliance with all applicable environmental regulations.
BIAC is an hour away from Vizag port and well connected by road and rail to other major
ports as well.
BIAC has over 250 acres of land dedicated to Non-Processing facilities including a 120
acre green belt

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Tax and trade benefits of locating at BIAC includes-
1. Complete exemption on duty on all imports
2. Concession of income tax rate of 20% for 15 years compared to the present
corporate tax of 32.45%.
3. Duty-free access into Japan through the Indo-Japan FTA.
Current manufacturers hosted by BIAC include:
1. Brandix Apparel India- the single largest ladies underwear manufacturing facility.
2. Seeds Intimate Apparel- Bras and Brallets
3. Quantum Clothing- ladies innerwear and men’s shirts
4. Ocean India-fabric mill for knitting, dyeing and printing
5. Pioneer Elastics- China based company manufacturing and dyeing narrow elastic
6. Thermax- Providing energy solutions for other manufacturing units
7. Screenline printing- printing services
8. Shore to Shore- Manufacturing tags and labels
9. S & S- manufacturing underwires for bras

2.1. BIAC Mission:
THE FASTEST – Speed and efficiency are crucial to being competitive in the global
apparel industry. This is why BIAC’s mission is to offer nothing but, the most efficient
option of ‘Fiber-to-Store’ concept and planned placement of operational units giving way
to ‘Real Time Connectivity and Seamless Integration’.
RIGHT COST – Good business means healthy profits. BIAC is geared to maximise the
profits, with SEZ fiscal benefits, competitive utility costs, economies of scale, cost
effective labor pool and value chain partners that can cut down on overheads drastically.
TOTAL CONVENIENCE – Described as a Plug-and-Play environment, BIAC has a
mission to make every effort possible to provide future partners every single requirement
needed to commence operations swiftly. From labour to transport to communication
every detail of the process has been examined and provided for.
ABSOLUTE ASSURANCE – Their claim in creating the perfect atmosphere for
investment is re-enforced by stringent standards that extensively cover both social and
environmental policies in the apparel industry. Powered by a strong stable economy and

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emphasis on the promotion of the textile industry assures the future partners that BIAC
is the best place to invest.
INNOVATIVE SOLUTIONS – World class partners, offering world class know how in one
location. The mission is to generate innovative solutions, benefiting not only end
customers but complementing operating units.
3. BRANDIX APPREL INDIA- UNIT 1

Brandix Apparel India, the Indian manufacturing arm of Brnadix Lanka Ltd., was first set up
at Pendurthi in March, 2006. Later it was shifted to Duvvada in 2007. Finally it was
constructed on the land of BIAC in Atchutapuram as the first unit of BIAC.
Overview:
First factory in BIAC.
 Single largest exporter of underwear from India
 3,700 Employees
 Two shift operation
 Land Area : 13.5 Acres
 Built Up Space: 146,000 sq. ft.
It has systematically increased its local workforce, and today has a combined strength of
3700 associates, majority women from neighboring villages, with world-class apparel being
exported to top customers in US and Europe.
This unit hold a capacity of producing 4.5 million pcs/month in a two-shift operation.
3.1. CURRENT CUSTOMERS OF BAI -I
1. Victoria’s Secret LOGO
2. Victoria’s Secret PINK

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3.2. ORGANISATIONAL STRICTURE :

Brandix Core
Team
Head of Finance
Head of HR and
Admin
Factory ManagerHead of ICT
Manager
Manufacturing
Manager- Industrial
Engineering
Manager - Quality
Manager-
P.E &
Maintenance
Manager -
Administration
& HR
Manager -
Operation &
Planning
Assistant Manager
Manufacturing
Assistant Manager-
Industrial
Engineering
Assistant
Manager - Quality
Assistant
Manager-
P.E &
Maintenance
Assistant
Manager -
Administration
& HR
Assistant
Manager -
Operation &
Planning
Executive
Manufacturing
Executive- Industrial
Engineering
Executive -
Quality
Executive
P.E &
Maintenance
Executive -
Administration
& HR
Executive -
Operation &
Planning
Head of Corporate
Staff
Operators

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3.3. PLANT LAYOUT:

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4. DEPARTMENTAL STUDY

4.1. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
Bai Black Seal Sample Process for a New Style

New Style Received from Sri Lanka
With PSD to all shipments & Order Details

Approved Red Tag Sample

Complete Tech-Pack
Black Seal Sample for Production Approval from (BAI) to BER
Black Seal Comments from BER for PP Meting
RAW Material to be In-housed with approved Trim Card & Trims
Approved Stranded
PP Meeting
Pilot Appraisal
Pilot Appraisal Approval
Start Bulk Production
From Cut no ONE Within 200pcs TOP & MTL Samples Need to send for
Approval
Within 48 Hours
TOP Approval & MTL Approval Reports before the Shipment
Shipment Release from (BAI)
Pre PP Meting Before Start Black Seal Samples

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Customer Wise Sample Process


Top plan received from BRANDIX ESSENTIALS LIMITED(According to the customer
requirement)
Section allocation is done by the planning department bas on the Cut No # One Weekly
Shipments
Plan is circulated to all the respective departments
(The departments are as follows - planning; sourcing; cutting; Rm; production; Aql)

VS LOGO
SAMPLE PROCESS FOR VS LOGO & VS PINK

VS PINK
As per the received plan
(season wise) from BER we
have to send the TOP’S
from large size and small
size.
Sample quantity
For (VSS) top’s - large
-2, small-2.
For (VSD) top’s small-
2.
Colour samples – small
– 3
MT sample (season wise)
for all Styles Medium-5pcs
for testing and with Bow
Style Medium-8pcs.
We will follow the weekly
shipment plan for TOP’S.
(Season wise)
Need to send of small
size -2 garments To BEL
office (1pcs for MISA
Office, 1pcs for BEL
office reference).
Season wise MTL
sample for all Styles
Medium-5pcs for
TOP & MTL
APPROVED
SHIPMENT RELEASED
TOP & MTL
APPROVED
SHIPMENT RELEASED

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Department Working
The sampling department is the department in which the buyer’s requirement is
actually transformed into a garment based on the styles & designs given by the
buyer. The buyers itself sends a design to the company of the desired garment.
In any case a “Tech-Pack” is prepared by the buyer which includes
the sketch of the garment, all measurements and the trims & accessories to be
used thereafter. The merchandiser who handles an order of any particular buyer,
will be responsible for making the samples of that order with the help of sampling
department.
Sampling is the process by which a small number of garments are made so as to
match the buyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as to start off
the production. It also contributes in the domain of product development which
helps to present the quality and capability of service to the buyer. This
department executes as per the specifications of buyer’s order and ensures any
correction or alteration before starting bulk production as per buyer purchase
order. The sampled garments represent the accuracy of the patterns and quality
of production skills and techniques employed by the whole organization. The
samples not only serve the purpose of communicating correctly with the buyer
regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to calculate the fabric
consumption along with that of thread and embellishment used.
 Black Seal Sample: Proto sample is the rough interpretation of the enquiry done to
acquaint the tailors with the style. It is usually done on the substitute fabrics, and
using accessories, what is available and then checked on the dress form. The
quality inspectors from the respective buying houses or the buyer checks the
sample, makes the necessary changes pertaining to the fit, the drape, the style
details etc. Once this stage is completed, it’s time to move on to the next stage.
 Fit Sample: the fit of the garment assumes the pivotal importance in this sample.
Usually done on the substitute / actual fabrics and substitute trims and accessories.
It is sent directly to the buyer for necessary alterations to be made. Depending upon
the changes or the comments of the buyer, the revised fit samples are made till the
final approval is obtained.
 Top of production sample: it is done on the actual fabric using the actual trims
and the fit has to be perfect. It is simply a prelude to the actual production.
 Size Set Sample: It is done according to the buyer’s request. It is almost equivalent
of the pre-production sample except that it was done in all the sizes or in the
jumping sizes per the buyer’s request
 Pilot Run Sample: First 200 samples are called pilot run sample of actual production.

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4.2. PLANNING AND SOURCING DEPART MENT

1.1.1. Planning
Production planning and control department coordinates the activities of all the
departments. It provides all the departments from sewing to dispatch with the
necessary details and does a follow up of all the activities to ensure that the
order is running as per the schedule date.

The department is responsible for tracking the status of the production in the unit
and reporting the same. Each person in the PPC is given a specific buyer to
follow. This gives better understanding of the customer and this helps in better
buyer compliance. The activity of PPC begins with the receipt of the confirmed order
 The PPC gets this information from the marketing department
 Details on:
o Product specification
o Quality
o Shades
o Sizes
o Measurements
o Shipment schedule and date
o Packing instruction
o The country and destination port
o Dispatch particulars like: - mode of transportation, type of shipment,
transporters name and address.

 Order priority is planned and production dates scheduled after calculation of the
lead time for fabric availability and other orders on hand.
 They also plan the time of sewing
 The fabric and trim details are made on the basis of preparation of the
CAD marker
 On the information given the patterns are prepared on the CAD and the
marker is made keeping in mind the different width available

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1.1.2. Production and Control Activities
The reports maintained by the Supply Chain Management department are the
summaries of reports produced during the Production, in order to keep a control on
the Production Functions. The reports are mentioned as follows:
Production Report:
This report maintains the record of Batch output and the Dispatch output;
cumulative figures are maintained and are updated date wise.
Shift Wise Production Report:
This report maintains the record of line wise production and shift wise too. This
contains the Date, Production of the date, Cumulative production, the tailors
employed for the date, and the Average (production/ tailor). The report is updated
daily.
Line Wise WIP Report:
This report maintains the Line wise cutting input and balance; loading input and
balance; output and output balance; issue and balance. The report is maintained date
wise for all the lines (style and buyer wise) together and also depicts a WIP chart of
the mentioned data.
Dispatch Report:
This report maintains the brand wise dispatch details under Free on Board
(FOB), Job Work, and Out Sourcing or Ware house for the month.
Embroidery Report:
This report maintains the date wise embroidery department details summarized
on the basis of the manual reports generated and submitted every day

Factory Report Of The Month:
This report is the summary of the above mentioned all the reports for a month and
is updated daily.

1.1.3. Sourcing
Objective:

The purpose of this process is to align raw materials for production requirements to
ensure smooth beginning of production for each order.

Responsibility:

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The sourcing team is responsible for aligning raw materials and finding options for
unexpected circumstances in coordination with ‘front end’ & the suppliers before
PSD.
Preparation & monitoring of trim cards for each style to be run on production floor is
also an essential part of their profile along with providing sample raw materials for
production of black seal samples.

Sourcing for ‘SPEED’ orders is done entirely by the sourcing team of BAI Unit-I
independently.


SOURCING PROCESS FLOW:











Plan upload on FSP on every
Saturday
Receiving two weeks plan from “front end”
planner
Need to check RM for the next 3 days PSD &
make sure there is no concern to start PSD on
time Trim card need to be
prepared
Check if
RM is
aligned
for
No Yes
Planner will load the
dashboard for PSD
Need to check for alternative schedule
Aligning raw materials for the alternative schedule
by getting advance deliveries from suppliers
Starting alternative schedules without any impact
on production

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4.3. RAW MATERIALS DEPARTMENT:
Direct Suppliers:

Indirect Suppliers:

The RM department is further compartmentalized into the following:
1. Fabric and Accessories receiving
2. Fabric and Trim Inspection
3. Fabric Issuing
4. Trim Issuing
Fabric and Accessories Receiving:
This department is responsible for handling all imports after custom clearance.
They are responsible for RM 100% manual counting of the order once it has been
unloaded at the Quarantine area till the material is ready to be handed over for
inspection.

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FABRIC AND ACCESSORIES RECEIVING PROCESS:

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FABRIC INSPECTION PROCESS :

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TRIM INSPECTION PROCESS :

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Tests Conducted:

Fabric Visual Inspection - Fabric checked for defects & its width using Ramsons fabric
inspection machine.

Shrinkage Test - Used to check shrinkage of fabric by marking out sample using shrinkage
testing plate and ensure customer supplied shrinkage tolerance.

Curling Test - Used to check if curling of fabric occurs by giving a cut through the centre of
the fabric.

Colour Test - Fabric colour difference checked under different light sources using a
Gretagmacbeth model – Macbeth Spectra Light III light box.

0






Fabric Inspection - The fabric is relaxed along with length & width checking using C-Tex
fabric relaxation machine whose speed varies between 10 mts/min to 12 mts/min.

Physical Test (GSM) - A GSM cutter of 100 cm
2
surface area & a weighing scale is used to
determine the weight of the fabric.











Colour Segregation - 3-way match & visual segregation is done for fabrics and lace only by
calibrated personnel who have passed the Farnsworth Munsell eye test. Acroma is the
customer approved colour standard against which all RM is compared.

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3-Way Match:

• M3 colour name/code for that PO#

• Colour name/code on 1st bulk

• Colour name/code on supplier ticket

Trims Visual Inspection - Visual inspection against approved standards & the specification
sheet. If trim is DTM then it should be matched with relevant fabric. Woven labels & heat
seals matched against approved art works for dimensions, visibility & readability.
Finger Test - Heat seals undergo finger test to check for excess dye and cracking of
artwork.

Fabric Defects:
Knitting Defects – Drop needle, miss yarn, needle lines, drop stitch (hole), back knots,
wrong yarn

Yarn Defects – Slubs, loom fly, thick yarn, pilling, thin yarn, contamination

Printing Defects – Registration issue, colour bleeding, print mistakes, squeeze line, back
side penetration, misprints (touch ups)

Finishing/Dying Defects – Bruise places, stains, dye patches, softener marks,
selvedge damages, dye stain Within the roll colour shading –

a. Starting left b. Middle right

c. Starting right d. Ending left

e. Middle left f. Ending right

Fabric Bowing Condition –

Bowing: A fabric condition resulting when knitted courses are displaced from a line
perpendicular to the selvedge and form one or more arcs across the width of the fabric.

• Bow

• Double bow

• Double hooked bow

• Double reverse side

• Hooked bow

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Fabric Skewness Condition –
Skewing: A fabric condition resulting when knitted courses are angularly displaced from a
line perpendicular to the edge of the fabric.










Formula for Skewness/Bowing % -

Skewness/Bowing % = Max. height of bowing/skewness (D) X 100

Full width of fabric (W)

Four Point Inspection System:
(For fabric visual inspection)

The four point system is widely accepted in the textile and garment trade because it is easy
to understand and implement. This system also lays down standards that have proven to be
acceptable in the garment trade and it is recommended to vendors to use the same system
while checking fabric.
The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size and
significance of the defect. Points are assigned according to the following criteria:

Defect length in Inches Point
Up to 3 1
3 to 6 2
6 to 9 3
Over 9 4

• No running meterage of the fabric shall be penalised more than four points.

• All holes will be given 4 points.

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Points per 100 yards = Total points counted X 36 X 100

Total yards inspected X Avg. width

Acceptance criteria = Maximum 28 points/100 sq. yards

1 In 20 System:
(For trim inspection)
Definition – Number of defects in 20 Yards (1 defect = 1 point)
Point Rate = Inspected yards/No. of points
- Should divide inspected length (in mts.) from no. of defects. If the answer is above
20 consignment is passed and below 20 failed.
- This is including joints also. Joint percentage has remained same as current
agreement. It is only 3%.
- E.g.:- 1) Inspected qty. - 400 mts. found 25 defects. So points = 400/25 = 16. That
means it is fail. 2) Inspected qty. – 400 mts. found 15 defects. So points = 400/15
= 26.66. That means it is pass.
- And if any defect continues on for a few metres, then 1 point should be given for
each metre.

Fabric Issuing:
It is the responsibility of this department to maintain the fabric inventory and issue fabrics
& cut dockets for particular styles.
Fabric Inventory:
The fabric is put away in stores as per the 3 inventories maintained which are as follows:

• 107 – Live Stock (Comprises of all fabrics customer wise which are currently in
production on the production floor)
• 147 – Customer Liability (Includes fabrics which are not in current production but maybe
required for future use by customer)
• AW-1 – Write-off Stock (Comprises of those fabrics which have been declared waste
by the customer) Divided into - a) Reserved Write-off which includes fabrics that are
reserved for 1 month for an emergency after which they are shredded and destroyed. b)
RM Write-off comprises of fabrics which are to be given to the training center for training
purposes.

Safety Precautions While Storing Fabrics & Lace:
• Dark & light colours are not stored together to avoid any shading issues.

• Dark & solid coloured fabrics are not stored on the topmost racks to prevent fading from
the sun.

• Gap is to be maintained between the walls and pallets at all times to avoid moisture to
seep into the fabrics.

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Material Requisition Note:
Definition: A material requisition note (MRN) lists the items to be picked from inventory and
used in the production process in the provision of a service to a customer, usually for a
specific job. The form usually has three purposes:

• To pick items from stock

• To relieve the inventory records in the amount of the items picked

• To charge the targeted job for the cost of the items requisitioned

The note can also be used as the basis for the reordering of any inventory items that are
not currently in stock.
The MRN can be of the following types:

XYY – for CAD savings

XLS – for length or width shortages

XRC – in cases of re-cut docket

XRM – for damage purposes

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FABRIC ISSUING PROCESS :
TRIM ISSUING:
It is the responsibility of this department to maintain the trims inventory and issue
respective sewing & packing trims for particular styles.
TRIMS IN STORES:
• Bows

• Price Stickers

• Tags

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• Heat Seals

• Labels

• Elastic

• Lace

• Sewing threads

• Cartons

• Packets

TRIMS ISSUING PROCES :

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4.4. SPREADING AND CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading
table, cutting table, or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting
process. A spread or layup is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single
marker. A spread may consist of a single or multiple plies. The height of a lay-up or
spread is limited by fabric characteristics size of the order to be cut, cutting
method, and the vertical capacity of the spreader.
Spreading is done manually by two operators usually. One person may work
each side of the table in order to keep the fabric flat, smooth, and tension-free.
With automatic spreading, the equipment controls the tension, fabric placement,
and rate of travel.
The spread lays are then cut using appropriate machines and methods.
There are normally following type of fabric which comes in spreading room:
• Stripes
• Printed
• Solid
From knowing the average marker length from the pattern master the first layer is cut
and sticked on the table. The rest of the layers superimposed on this first layer
keeping in mind the matching of lay length. Special attention is given to matching of
stripes between layer to layer so that one can ensure stripe to stripe matching in
front to back or in other parts of garments in case of stripes also known as
engineered stripes. Different layers are cut according to specified marker length
which is known as "palla". After cutting all layers these layers are then adjusted to
match the stripes. It is difficult to control the lay at the time of cutting, so there are
fewer layers laid in this type of fabric. The spread type is normally now fow (nap-one-
way face-one-way). This is done because to avoid any variation in matching of strips.
Solid fabric:

The fabric from its package which is generally in piled up frame and carried along
the table where the ends are secured by weights or clamps. There are two
operators (in case of manual spreading) in this also, which work back from the
end, aligning the edges and ensuring that there is no tension and that there are

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no wrinkles. The ply is normally cut with round end cutters.
In this also the first layer is laid according to the average length given by the
marker plan. This layer is then sticked on the table by using the tape.

The rest of the layers are then superimposed keeping in mind the grain line, lay length
etc. The spreader ensures fabric flatness, smoothness, and tension free. To avoid
any variations between layers of two "rolls", layers of one roll are separated from
layers of other roll by keeping the other color fabric. It is generally kept between the
last layer of one roll and first ply of next roll.

Cut Order Planning:
Cutting Room is linked directly to the Planner (production coordinator),and Stores
for scheduling and sewing loading. The role of the Coordinator is limited to
coordinate the dates of all activities related to the order delivery in terms of
fabric availability, orders priorities, markers issuing and sewing planning. The
role of the Stores is limited to scheduling the fabric deliveries to the cutting room in
terms of quantity and types. The role of the production management is limited to
scheduling the daily quantity as per the production planning in order to feed the
production lines on time without any delays. To do so, Cutting Room requires
synchronized activities in order to achieve in time deliveries to the Sewing Floor
Planner meets the Cutting Manager in order to assign all the Cutting dockets
according to priority of cut.
 The Planner issues to the Cutting Manager the Production Loading
Schedule that is required daily to feed the production lines based on styles
and cut priorities.
 Cutting Manager/Lay Planner plans all the Cutting Room activities
required per table and area based on the fabric availability, the markers
and the quantity buffer required per day to the production floor in order to
feed all the lines probably at the same time.
 Cutting manager takes into consideration the sub-contract activities such
as panel screen print, embroidery that requires prior to delivery to the sewing
floor.
 Cutting Manager prepares the Fabric Requisitions including the Items Codes
appearing on the Bill of Materials keeping a buffer of one day in the cutting

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room per table.
 Cutting Manager Update the Stores Manager through BAI net in order to
provide the cutting schedule and requirements in fabric or other materials.

Fabric Requisition and Stores Procedures:
 Once the Fabric Requisition is received the, the requested quantity is issued
to the Cutting Room after checking the Fabric Item Code, Shades etc.
 The quantity issued is recorded in the ledgers and BAI net dashboard (RMS) is
updated.

Lay Planning:
 The Cutting Manager/Lay Planner should plan the Style/Order so that the
required sizes and order quantities are achieved as per the original
ratios.
 Different size combinations of lays are possible if it helps to maximize the
fabric utilization.

Spreading Activity:
After planning is done, cutting docket could be split into several cut no. or job
numbers but all under same schedule numbers.
Cutting manager or assigned person, prepare the cutting docket for the
spreaders and hand over all requirements including the marker as per the Spreading
and Cutting Activities Calendar
Cutting manager ensures that the fabric has been transferred to the tables or
designated area as per his or her request.
Cutting manager issues the Laying Slip to the assigned team as per the tables
planned with the necessary requirement for spreading activity and the quality
control issues.

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The steps of spreading were following:-
 Firstly, the cutting masters measures the required lay length and mark it on the
table.
 Secondly, the workers lay down the brown paper of required length + 5 cm
 Then, they start laying the fabric from the roll by putting the roll no. and length
of the roll on the job card.
 After that they start matching the lay from one end and go back by relaxing the
fabric by the hand i.e. make it a straight so that when they lay 2
nd
ply it is easy
for the ply to settle down on the other.
 When they found large amount of bowing on the torn side of the fabric they cut
that amount of part from the fabric.
 After that they again start to lay that cut fabric part and they again done
the same thing as they done above means they again matched the fabric
ply from one side in this way they are able to seek out the bowing.

Quality Control in Cutting:
Before spreading the quality controller has to check the following points:-

 Check the width of the fabric.
 Verify the given fabric versus the approved swatch.
 Determine the length on the table.
 Ensure the direction of the fabric and grain lines. Gather all the tools required for the
spreading. Place a marker paper on the first ply
 Select the rolls as per the shade to avoiding any mixes ups.
 In case of any defects while spreading it should be highlighted with a paper
which is placed width wise.
 End bits to be stored width wise, color wise, end bit length mentioned and placed
under the cutting table.
Fabric spreading time depends on the number of plies per lay but the cutting time
remains the same no matter the number of plies per lay. It's very important to
develop the best work method for spreading the fabric efficiently with least
number of employees.

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4.5. CAD DEPARTMENT
This is the department where the actual base of the garment is prepared i.e. the
patterns are made and rectified. Here the patterns are premade in the software
itself. The name of the software is ACCUMARK .It is here that a detail specified
on the spec sheet is converted into a garment. CAD software developer is GERBER
and the plotter is INFINITY PLOTTER.
The function of the CAD department is to do the same through the use of
computer (computer aided designing). CAD system is developed to assist rather than
restrict the creative process. This system performs repetitive and time-consuming
tasks, freeing designers to focus on the creative development process. This
approach is unique and much more productive than techniques used in traditional
systems and the increased speed dramatically shortens the product development
cycle, which in turn, increases profitability. the CAD (Computer Aided Design) use
to prepare the markers of various kinds to calculate per garment fabric
consumption, cost, etc.
Requirements of The Pattern Making And The CAD Department
The pattern making and the CAD department required following information
before coming up with fabric consumption, pattern and marker for a particular
PO:
 Tech pack provided by the buyer, spec sheet, construction details and
sample (if available).
 Fabric details like cut-able width, content, shrinkage, repeat size, fabric design
etc.
 Consumption of the trims associated with the garment.
 Each and every pattern developed in the department contains the following
details:
o Grain line
o Size
o Part name
o PO number
o Notch marks
o Drill Marks

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Marker Making:
Marker is the best possible arrangement of all pattern pieces in the available
width of the fabric so has to utilize minimum fabric and reduce fabric wastage.
When all the required information is fed into the system by the digitizing the
patterns are ready for marker making. The system allows the recall and
arrangement of patterns on the monitor screen, according to given technological
requirements. Individual pieces can be moved around the screen using a mouse,
to produce an optimized layout. For a dyed fabric, fabric shade varies in width-
example lighter shade at the salvages and dark shades at the central portion.
Hence care must be taken while placing the patterns in the marker so that all
pattern pieces of one particular garment full on area of the fabric with the same
shade. The system is programmed to calculate material utilization i.e. efficiency
and cutting waste. Before making the final marker, a combination of pattern
arrangements, in a given width, are made so as to achieve maximum efficiency.
For a particular order, number of markers is made to achieve required size ratio
for each marker lay plan is made, which helps in spreading. The cutting
instructions for respective lays are sent directly (online) to fully automatic cutting
machine.
Marker placing
Marker making is the process of developing the jig-saw like diagram which is
superimposed on piles as a guide for cutting these piles of fabric into the required
component parts of manufactured product. The cad department gives the efficiency
of the marker, and then accordingly the cad person of the cutting department draft
online marker on the top most layers of the piles.
The Different Types Of Markers Prepared In CAD Room Are:
1. All Garment One Way Marker:

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2. One Garment One Way Marker:

3. Attached Marker:

4. Closed Marker:

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5. Striped marker

Cutting Activity:
The cutting activity starts after the spreading and aim to cut the garments parts or
blocks for fusing or band knife.
 Cutters should use his metal gloves all the time for security purpose.
 Cutters should be aware of all the quality procedures and tolerances for cutting.
 The Cutters should thoroughly follow the pattern lines while cutting to avoid
quality issues. The Cutters should thoroughly follow the pattern notches
where applicable while cutting to avoid quality issues in sewing
 Cutters will return all the tools used to fix the lays to their original
destinations.
 Cutting activity should be done as much as possible to complete one size by
cutting all the parts in the garment in order to accelerate the job on
bundling.

Block Cutting:
At the cutting table the parts are cut in blocks and not as single piece to avoid any
cutting damage because of low precision of straight knife. Blocks having 7 to 12
pieces are cut by band knife depending upon the size.

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Machines used in Cutting:
Fabric Laying & Cutting Tables – Used for spreading fabric
layers & cutting the panels
Bout Machine – Used for binding layers of smooth or
slippery fabric by using heat
End Cutter (Eastmann) – Used for separating fabric layer
from fabric roll at the time of laying
Straight Knife (Eastmann Blue Streak II) – Used for bigger
panels, panels with less curves, less complicated panels &
for making divisions
Band Knife (Eastmann C-700N, Oshima OB-700 A) – Used
to cut small & intricate panels with more curves
Bundling:
Bundling is sorting and stacking cut components for further processing. The size
(amount in) of a bundle and the number of different pattern sections in the bundle is
dictated individually by the production policy and the needs of the plant.
Objective of the bundling is to differentiate a pattern from different lots, which
may vary in colour. The bundle size varies accordingly to cutting orders, shading,
size of the piece in the bundles and the operation that is to be completed.
There is no separate bundling ticket is used but the marker on top itself act as the
bundling ticket. The required information is printed on the marker.
 Cut number
 Module no.
 Schedule no.
 Part name
 Size

4.6. PRODUCTION
The dominant process in garment industry is sewing, still the best way of
achieving strength and flexibility in the seam itself as well as flexibility of
manufacturing method. Much of the application of technology to clothing
manufacture is concerned with the achievement of satisfactorily sewn seams.

Standard Operating Procedure in Production Department:

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 Final tech pack to be available in the Production File.
 Fabric shrinkage test record for 10% / 100% as applicable to be available.
 Approved Trim Card with all trims to be available in the file
 PP sample approval sheet to be available.
 PP meeting minutes record to be available.
 Production / finishing plan to be available.
 A chart to monitor critical component output to be available.
 Copy of folding / packing approval record to be available in the file.
 There is a 100% end-line inspection and the method of inspection and the
measurement chart is to be prepared by quality.
 As the end - line inspection completed they forward it towards the
packaging department.
 In the packaging department they follow 2.5 AQL.
 If in-line there is a problem in quality hen the line Q.C stops the operation and
re modifies it.

Requirements of Sewing Section:
 The requirements of the sewing section are as follows:
 Purchase Order/Order Confirmation file with tech pack
 Cut summary report (Style no., P. no.,
Size, Bundle no., Qty, S. No.)
 Quality Auditing specifications
 Approved sample
 Visuals quality standards
 PP meeting notes, etc.

Style Analysis and Line Plan:
For each and every Order Confirmation / Purchase Order style analysis was
done, stating the sequence of operations, sewing machines to be used, folders,
attachments, presser foot etc to be used. All the critical points were marked. Line
plan showed the actual sequence, number of stations for each operations or
combination of operations. This also showed the marker positions, positions,
quality checking/ Audit positions.
Pre-Production Meeting:

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The preproduction meetings were designed to be informative and instructive with
the intention of eliminating many problems before the production started. It was
therefore an integral part of the production process. The meeting was generally
held 5 days prior to starting the production. The pre-production meeting was
conducted at the factory with members from all the departments of the factory.
During the meeting the points that were discussed:
 Critical points that were to be taken care of, during the bulk production for better
productivity and quality
 Pre-Production Sample with the changes from the Proto in the original
fabric and trims is submitted.
Order Planning in the Factory:
The Production Manager and the Industrial Engineer do the production planning at the
micro level. They were responsible for doing the following the Cut plan, sewing plan,
finishing and packing plan and dispatch plan:
 Fabric and trims planning for the next Purchase Order (P.O.) to be loaded in the
line.
 Providing operation breakdown detail for the style line wise.
 Calculating SAM for a garment (at 75% efficiency) and achieving a balanced
line plan.
 Machine planning for the order to be loaded in the batch. If extra machine,
specialized machine, guides, attachments and folders were needed, they
arranged for the procurement of it from the maintenance department.
 Taking care of the loading schedule of the batch. .
Production System:
 In Brandix Apparel India, production department were following a process
system. Process system is a system in which pieces are moving in parts.
 In this system the panels of one complete garment start from one end
undergoes through consecutive processes.
 Usually a module (line) consists of 16 operators.
 Bottle neck operation has usually 2- 3 operators.

Capacity of Sewing Floor:
 There are total of 4 sections.
 Each section consists of 16 modules.

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 There are around 256 operators in one shift per section.
 Similarly no. of jumpers in one section is 15, 17 quality operators and 5
mechanics.
 They have to wear separate colour coat.

Operator - White
Supervisor - Pink
Mechanic- Red
Quality- Yellow
Technician- Green
Jumper - Blue
Floor Terminology:
Section = 16 Modules
Block = 4 Modules

Total Section= 4
Total Block = 16
Total Module= 64
Line Feeding:
Whenever a new style is introduced line feeding is done. All machines are set by
technician. First three pieces are stitched by technician. All threads are checked
before starting the production. Usually the first day target is kept at 10% only then
every day efficiency is increased by a multiple of 10.
Records Maintained
 Machine maintenance
 Hourly production
 Daily production
 Q.A comments
 Production file
 End line checking reports
 Absenteeism record
 Needle record
 stitching inspection report
 order completion report
 Label File.

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 Daily Rejection Report
Production Floor Layout:

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Production In-Line flowchart

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4.7. QUALITY

The quality department is responsible for quality control & quality maintenance at all
levels on the production floor. The department conducts strict audits to ensure superior
quality of all garments.

It is the objective of any manufacturer to offer his customers first quality merchandise.
The purpose of the quality control program is to assist manufacturers in meeting their
high standards.

In addition quality control program can help them in the operations quality control
program, spot and reject defective items and more importantly pinpoint production
operations that need special attention thereby reducing the future production failures. This
type of quality control provides a basis for management decisions in the plant.
PRE PP MEETING
BLACK SEAL SAMPLE
RA MEETING
PP
CUT AUDIT 10% PILOT FEED BACK
PILOT APPRESIAL
LINE END 100% CHECKING LINE AUDIT EMBLISHMENT
PACK AUDIT
CARTON ACCURACY AUDIT EMBLISHMENT 100% CHECK
FCA
MCA
READY TO DISPATCH
MAIN FLOW CHART QUALITY & TECHNICAL DEPARTMENT

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Quality is:
• Fit for use
• Conformance to requirements
• When customer is satisfied and encouraged to buy
• When it is defect free
• When it has a long life
• When it has good wearability and washability

Department Linkage:

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Cutting Quality Audit:

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In-Line Quality Audit:

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End-Line Quality Audit:

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Packing Quality Audit:

Here 1.5 AQL is followed. Garments of all lots are randomly checked. The defect
in the final audit is divided into major or minor faults. Three minor faults make one

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major fault. If the whole lot is rejected then it is again sent to the final checker for
final inspection and after re-inspection the pieces are sent.

4.8. FINISHED GOODS AND SURPLUS DEPARTMENT
The finished goods department handles the garments after sewing has been
completed. It is responsible for preparing - folding, packing, cartoning, checking,
storing and loading - the garments for shipment.
Folding & Cartooning:
Folding done as per the given standard approved by the customer.
Ensuring the quality & quantity of the folded garments at ‘Packet Audit’ by inline
auditor.
If ‘Packet Audit’ passed, need to proceed garments for carton making as per the
standard carton quantities. Carton packing is done on the basis of the standard
carton quantity which changes based on the style & schedule.
VSD- 1 PC PACKING

VSS- 30 PCS IN 1 PACK

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Finished Goods Operational Processs:

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Export Loading Procedure:
 Prepare shipment as per the VPO/PO information.
 Segregate shipments as per shipping mode.
 After receiving the goods from packing audit area, shipment has been
segregated as per the style/ schedule no./ VPO & mode.
 Offer for FCA/MCA audit.
 The segregated goods have been offered to audit to FCA/MCA.
 Seven point check to be done for the container/truck. Container has to be
checked as per the 10 point system.
 If the container/truck is in according to the standards, it will be approved for
loading. IF NOT: The container/truck will be returned to the freight forwarder.
 Commence loading to the container/truck in the presence of Security officer or
FG authorized employee
 Park the container/truck at the loading bay.
 After 10 point system, container has to be parked at loading bay.
 Digital photos to be taken of the empty container/lorry.
 While loading the shipment, digital photos have to be taken of empty container,
midway loaded container, fully loaded container, closed door & sealed door.
 The two below mentioned personnel should take charge of 100% of the loading.
Security officer/FG authorized employee
 Digital photos to be taken of partially loaded container/truck.
 Check the tally sheet with the security officer for accuracy of the loading count.
 Before loading the container the goods (no. of cartons) have to be tallied with the
security officer vs. FG authorised employee
 Closing of the container/truck doors with the supervision of above two personnel.
 Digital photo has to be taken after closing the container/truck doors.
 Seal the doors with a bolt seal.
 Take a digital photo after sealing the doors.
 Obtain the driver’s signature on the AOD (Advice Of Dispatch).
 Obtain factory security clearance on the AOD.
 Release the container/truck.
 The freight forwarder who will be coordinating with the shipping agents in
Chennai will send a mail confirmation upon receiving the sealed container/ truck
in good order without tampering.
 As per the APSZ export regulations no person has the right to break/open a
sealed container/truck at any place under any circumstance without obtaining
written permission from APSZ authorities.
 In this situation no authority will break/open the sealed container/truck until it
reaches the destination.

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Container 10 Point Inspection:

Digital Photos Of Loading Process:

• Front wall • Empty container
• Left side • Mid-way container
• Right side • Loaded container
• Floor • Closed door
• Ceiling/roof • Sealed door

• Inside/outside doors

• Outside/ undercarriage

• Natural compartments/skid plate

• Exterior-front/sides

• Rear bumper/doors

1.1.4. Surplus Department
The department is responsible for the complete handling and destruction of damaged
panels from the cutting & sewing section as per the brand protection requirements within
15 days after shipment release.

Requirements:
The following documents are required before proceeding for any destruction of panels:

• Monthly production extract

• Excess garment receiving

• Finalized packing list
• Finalized MER (Monthly Extract Report)

The following authorities need to be present at the time of destruction of panels:

• Auditor

• Finance dept. member

• Administration dept. member

• Surplus HOD

• Quality HOD

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• Security officer

• Safety in charge

The following photographs need to be taken at the time of destruction as destruction
proof:

• Excess panels stored

• Excess panels loading in truck
• Excess panels checked for weight
• Excess panels on the way to shredding area
• Authorized personnel

• Running destruction
• Scrap photo
• Some cartons after destruction

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SURPLUS UNIT OPERATING PROCESS :

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4.9. Central Inspection Department:
FACTORY CERTIFIED AUDITOR (FCA) FLOWCHART :
People Involved:
• 6 certified auditors report to CIF manager
Purpose:
• It is the final stage for internal auditing

• Here all aspects of a garment are checked
• The garments are audited by Factory Auditors as well as MAST auditors
which is known as MCA (MAST Certified Audit)
• The garments cannot be shipped if it isn’t approved by these auditors

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• The shipments have to be approved by both FCA and MCA auditor as
their signatures are necessary for the shipment to proceed
• The number of garments to be checked are checked according to the AQL
levels and the garments are checked randomly
• The measurements and other quality checks are done according to the
customer standards

Major Documents for Quality:
• Final inspection report(FCA) (Inspection Report for Final Audit (An example
of the blank form can be found in appendix)
• Inline inspection report(FCA)( Inspection Report for In-Line Inspection (An
example of the blank form can be found in appendix)
• MCA final inspection report

• MCA inline inspection report

• FCA carton inspection report



Measurement Flow Chart:

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FCA AQL:

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Audit By MAST Certified Auditors (MCA) : Scorecards
Purpose:
To provide business leaders objective metrics on Mast vendor performance evaluation and to
facilitate communication between Mast and vendors on performance tracking and improvement
Metrics:
Focus on 2 major areas, namely Quality, On time delivery, and Compliance.
Vendors:
Key vendors are selected based on the total production in FOB$.
Overall Combined Score: PERFORMANCE RATING
95-100 HIGH
80-94 AVERAGE
60-79 POOR
59 OR BELOW CRITICAL
Reporting Schedule:
Scorecard is distributed on a quarterly basis
• Quarter 1: February – April

• Quarter 2: May – July

• Quarter 3: August – October
• Quarter 4: November - January

Individual Vendor Report:
Individual vendor report lists out the detailed results of all factories under a particular
vendor.

The report is to be shared to the respective vendor by the country manager or HK
finance leader and this is used as a tool for tracking and improving performance.

Vendor Quality Score Metrics:
Quality score measures performance on 5 quality metrics. They are final defect rate, in
line defect rate, return to vendor, customer call outs and shipping accuracy.
Defect rate data is based on MCA data only. It is calculated as total defects over
quantity inspected and includes workmanship and measured data. Final defect rate is
taken from final inspection while in-line defect rate is taken from in-line inspection during
the manufacturing process

Return to vendor (RTV) data is supplied by VS mega brand quality Assurance team.
RTV can happen during production, in DC (Distribution Centre), or at the store.
Customer returns the products or makes a claim due to non-conformance to the

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approved standards. The score card will treat it as an RTV even customer accepts
the product with penalty

Quality call out by customer can either be taken from a store or DC. It is classified into
major, minor and medium call out according to the severity of the problem. Classification
is to be made by the regional technical leader if details have not already been provided
by the customer

Shipping accuracy data is supplied by LLS on their findings in the DC. It relates
to call outs on Labelling/ packaging at the DC.

Demerit Point System:
All vendors start with a perfect score of 100. Points are deducted for failure to meet
criteria as set across the 5 quality metrics.
Customer Call Out
1XA – major call out that could result in returns
1XB – medium call out that could have returns in future order if the
problem is not corrected
1XC – minor call out that customer reminds us to improve on future
orders, no immediate follow up action required
Shipping Accuracy:
1xs – significant call out that leads to significant rework of labelling
or packaging at DC 1XM – minor call out that causes impact to
individual carton only
Vendor Quality Score:
Each factory of the vendor has a perfect score of 100 points. Points are deducted for
failures per the Demerit Point System. The Vendor Quality Score is sum of the score of
individual factory, weighted by the final in centre quantity. In centre quantity is the total
units of the shipments that MCA has test audited in the inspection.
On Time Delivery Score:
On time delivery measures the total quantity shipped by vendor as a percentage of the
total expected quantity at the planned GAC date. Data is extracted from Mast’s MSI
database. Plan GAC date is the latest delivery date in system as agreed by Mast and
vendor. Actual GAC date is the delivery date as shown on the Factory ASN
On time delivery score is calculated on vendor level, with breakdown by brands.
As the La Senza on time data in MSI does not truly reflect the actual GAC date, on time
score in the scorecard does not cover any La Senza orders.
Overall Combined Score:

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The combined score is calculated by applying 4:3:3 weighting to the Quality
score, On time delivery score and compliance score. As rating for Compliance
score is set based on the industry norms, it is different from the rating of quality,
On time delivery and overall combined score. An adjusting factor is worked out
by aligning the median point of each of the rating class the factor has been
applied to the compliance score when the overall combined score is calculated.

Audit Tools:
Audit equipment includes:
i. Ball Pen
ii. Soft Measuring Tape for Cut & Sew
products
iii. Metal Measuring Tape
iv. Digital Camera
v. Defect Sticker


4.10. LOGISTICS DEPARTMENT
Objective:
The objective is to ensure the smooth
flow of imports and exports to & from
BAI Unit-I endlessly.
Responsibility:
It is the logistics team’s responsibility
to handle all import and export
documentation.
Import Documents:
Bill of Entry
Bill of Lading/Airway Bill
Import Information:
‘‘Bill of Lading’ (in case of couriers &
sea transport) or ‘Airway Bill’ (in case
of air transport) is submitted to
customs and ‘Bill of Entry’ filed through
SEZ online system for import
clearance.

• BAI nominated forwarder – Vinflair
Logistics Ltd.


Fail
Front end raises PO to suppliers
Supplier’s forwarders informed
Receive materials with documents
File “Bill of Entry”
through SEZ
online system
Assured and verified
by customer office
Imports
allowed entry
in plant
Front end and suppliers
informed of discrepancies
Rechecking and refiling of
customs

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Export Documents:
• Export Declaration Form
• Gate Pass
• Invoice
• Packing List
• Purchase Order
• Shipping Bill
Export Information:
 ‘Export Declaration Form’ is filed through the SEZ online system & submitted
along with ‘Shipping Bill’ to the customs for clearance of any export which
declares the order details. Lead time for export custom clearance – 1 day.
 Shipping marks & barcode stickers are put on each carton to be exported for
easy identification of delivery region, customer & supplier.
 All exports are FOB (Free on Board) & the shipments are given to the buyer
nominated forwarder at CFS (Container Freight Station) in Chennai after
custom clearance thereby becoming the forwarder’s responsibility.
 Buyer nominated forwarders – APL (American President Lines Ltd.) Logistics,
XPO Logistics Inc.
 If an order gets delayed then the freight charges are beared by the unit as
penalty.

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4.11. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING (WORK STUDY)
This department is responsible for all the technical works related to a garment industry
such as the line balancing, the time study, the allocation of machines, the operation
breakdown etc. the IE department is also responsible for the planning of activities
related to a particular style.
The responsibilities and duties of the Industrial Engineering Department is
continuous approach towards
The improvements related to material handling; shortening the process,
reduction of the operation time (Standard Minute Value), costs, and Simplification of
the process, technology and methods.

Methodology:
 Highlight every problem found, reported or heard during meeting.
 Evaluate the reasons and causes of the problem.
 Analyze the possible solutions to solve the problem.
 Compare alternative solutions to the problem.
 Introduce the most feasible, practical, effective, efficient and
economical solution to the system.
 Keep the detail of the solutions in a Project Tasks Inventory the way it is done,
how, when and by whom.
 Coach people and monitor the changes till they reach the total
achievement.

 Determine the corporate objectives from the costing formula in relation to the
number of direct labour, absenteeism, minutes earned, production delays,
and quality.
 Assure the results are achieved daily, weekly and monthly, in case of
negative results.
 Find out the reasons behind each negative result. Evaluate a solution.
 Prepare an action plan.
 Implement the new changes or improvement.
 Report daily the results versus the action plan to the management
 Providing creative ideas in CM costing to the product development in order to
meet the cost objective. The cost of Cutting and Making should be
realized against the price objectives in the marketplace.

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 Analyze all the operations seen in the sample at the first step
 Try to simplify some of the operations in order to do them simultaneously,
Get the Involvement of the equipment technologist for any trial of new idea or
development of new tool.
 Remember the piece handling and how to distribute them to the next
operation.

 Eliminate any manual work by improving the work method of the sewing
operation avoiding reduction in the needle time.
 Propose any changes to the product development for approval.
 Try any new ideas before implementation.
 Ensure the work environment is organized and cleaned at all time
 Quality procedures should be restored in term of trims cards, methods of
inspection by the operators, paperwork’s and tools.

 Make sure the bundles are moving along the manufacturing chain in the order
and see the operators are following the Bundle Handling Techniques
 Involve with the technicians and help them find efficient and effective methods
of production.
 Ensure that the changes made by supervisors, technicians or managers will
not affect the performance of the labor and the manufacturing processes
and systems.

 Production Line set -ups should be analyzed in order to find the best
number of employees required for better line balancing and better
efficiency without relying on the output as objective.
 Industrial Engineer should run through very line set-up with the line
balancing software to analyze the line balancing efficiency and
achievement and to highlight to the supervisors where assistance and
balancing is required in order to pull the production chain.

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Line balancing:
Production Line balancing is the allocation of the work to be done to the
operators available to do it. Production line balancing is used:
 To ensure a steady flow of work
 To make the best use of the available time To keep work in progress to a
minimum
Effective line balancing or planning depends on:
Knowledge of the garment manufactured.
 The way in which production can be sectionalized.
 The capacity of the workplaces, in terms both of machinery and of the skill of
the operatives who work there.
 The sequence of line balancing procedure could be illustrated as follows:
1. List the garments Operations/ machines in sequence of assembly
2. Assign SAM to each operation
3. Calculate machine and manual SAM.
4. Allocate no. operator(s), as per the require output per hr. compared to the
efficiency of the operator (target /hr)

I.E. And Necessities:
One of the basic functions of Industrial engineer is to get facts. These facts may be
in the form of a time study or a cost report. But either case, management is given
information to act upon. The important necessities are
 Standardisation of methods, equipment, and conditions.
 Production scheduling to work accurately helps to understand how long it takes
to complete the work.
 Fair payment to employee
 To ensure all the three above mentioned the apparel engineering is
needed. These engineering efforts benefit the company like work
simplification, increased productivity, increased profit, increased Earning

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4.12. MAINTENANCE
The maintenance department
 Provides the necessary machines, instruments & appliances necessary to
carry out the manufacturing function of the organization.
 Facilitates the department with necessary work aids & work environment.
 Maintains all the machines, instruments, appliances, facilities & services in
appropriate condition.
The maintenance department is responsible not only for the Maintenance of the
Machine but is also responsible for providing & maintaining the facilities for the
production of the activities e.g. Illumination air circulation, work place
engineering, compressed air, etc. The condition & working of the machines &
working atmosphere in the department is mainly depend on the care taken &
working habits of the operators & all other floor employees So, it is very important to
have good Working habits & maintain them. This requires regular training to all the
employees related to Shop floor.
Functions of the Department:
1. Attain to the breakdown of machines.
2. Periodic machine maintenance.
3. Maintenance of the needle breakage report.
4. Providing folder and attachments to the operators.
5. Assisting the operator in knowing the machinery.
6. Replace the broken parts of the machine.
7. Before installing the new machine, getting full knowledge of the machine.
8. Preventive maintenance schedule is prepared.
9. To set up the line as instructed in the sewing program.
10. To carry out the regular cleaning and oiling of the entire machine.
11. Replace the necessary parts of the machine on regular intervals

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Service:
Maintenance department has to extend their services to the production
department by providing them the required work-aids at proper time & of correct
quality, clean & healthy working atmosphere, personal need sufficing aids, etc.
Need of Maintenance:
This system demands Zero Breakdown of machines. There should not be any
work stoppage due to machinery fault. If machine breaks down, then work stops,
leading to whole line sitting idle
The Needle Replacement Procedure:
 The needle replacement was done to ensure the elimination of new, used or
broken needles from the garments.
 The needle was issued to the operators on return of the used, broken needles
by the needle record keeping person. She carried the stock of needles
relevant to the machines operating on the sewing floor.
 When a needle broke, the machine operator was responsible for locating all the
broken parts of the needle. A file is maintained for the record of the used and
broken needles. The broken needle parts were pasted in the format and all
the needed related formats were to be filled in.
 They also used hand metal detectors for locating all the broken parts of a
needle when reported to the needle record keeping person.
Daily Activities Of This Department Include Following Checking's:
 Thread tension
 Overlock tension
 Overlock blade sharpness
 Oil flow
 Oil level
 Belt covers and filters
 Needles-bent/ blunt Worm eye groove
 Clean link from clutch/pulley Motor and in passages
 Motor pulley guards

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4.13. TRAINING AND DEVELOPMENT
Training is defined as “the organized procedure by which people learn knowledge
and skill for a definite purpose”.
The purpose of training is to fill the gap between job requirements and present
competence of capability of an employee. It is a continuous or never ending process.
Training Design:
The design of the training program can be undertaken only when a clear training
objective has been produced. The training objective clears what goal has to be
achieved by the end of training program i.e. what the trainees are expected to be
able to do at the end of their training. Training objectives assist trainers to design the
training program.
Training Topics:
After formulating a strategy, trainer decides upon the content to be delivered.
Trainers break the content into headings, topics, ad modules. These topics and
modules are then classified into information, knowledge, skills, and attitudes.
Sequence The Contents – Contents are then sequenced in a following manner:
 From simple to complex
 Topics are arranged in terms of their relative importance
 From known to unknown
 From specific to general
 Dependent relationship

Standard Operating Procedure:
Basic Training (One Month)

The Target
To Change The Mind Set Of The Employee
Areas They Cover:
1. Induction Of The Employess About The Garment Industry.
2. Health And Safety.
3. Hygiene
4. General Cleanlinees
5. Social Compliance

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6. 5s Frame Work
7. Punctuality
8. Team Work
9. Compensation Procedure
10. Needle Procedure
11. Production Functions
12. Accepted Quality Level Systems And Functions
13. Rft(Right First Time)
Final Assessment (Theory And Practical Test)
Operational Training (One Month):
Frame the Target
Identifying The Capabilities Of The Employee
Areas:
1. Building Of Self Cofidence
2. Training On Different Styles Of Garment
3. How To Build Productivity
4. Quality Concerns
5. Evaluation Of Training Effectiveness

Social Skills Training:
Social skill relating to building personal relationships and recognizing and treating
regular customers differently. It’s an on going process. In social skills training in BAI
the organization helps the employees to train how to build living standards and how
to live in the society as responsible citizens
Executive Development:
Executive development is a systematic process of learning and growth by which
managerial personal gain and applies knowledge, skills, attitudes and insights to
manage the work in their organizations effectively and efficiently. It is any planned
effort to improve current and future managerial performance and attempt at
improving individual’s managerial effectiveness through a planned and deliberate
and process of learning.

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Need for Development:
1. The size and complexity of organization are increasing .managers need to
develop to handle the problems of giant and complexity organization in the
face of increasing competition.
2. The rapid rate of technological and social changes requires training of
managers so that they are able to cope with these changes (automation,
cut throat competition enlarged labor participation).
3. Executive development is required to broaden the outlook of manager and
recognizing social and public responsibilities.
4. Training on professionalized management.
5. Training on Research orientation information.
6. Reawakening of ethical and moral values.
Evaluating:
Evaluation is systematic determination of merit, worth, and significance of something
or someone using criteria against a set of standards. Evaluation often is used to
characterize and apprise subjects of interest in a wide range of human behavior,
performance, and work efficiency. Assessment is the process of gathering and
analyzing specific information as part of an evaluation.
In BAI , the evaluation is done only twice in a year, but for the operators after soon
they complete the training programme the evaluation is done, with the help of
assessment sheet and then they were send to production floor.

Welfare Scheme by BAI:
Brandix Apparel India Pvt Ltd (BAI) cares for its employees and this is reflected in
the organization’s attitude towards its people. Apart from the monetary aspects,
which are taken care of by way of annual appraisal etc.
Eligibility:
Any person who is employed and working in BAI other than contract employees &
executive cadre and completed minimum 12 months
Continuous service is only eligible for the following employee welfare scheme.
Wedding Ceremony.
Marriage is being a most memorable occasion in every once life, all employees
(non-executives) of BAI will be rendered a one-time financial assistance for their

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marriage. The amount of financial assistance may vary subject to their length of
uninterrupted service in BAI as given below.
Financial Benefits:
 More than1 year and less than 2 years - INR 10,000
 Every next year a sum of INR 2500 is incremented
Other Benefits:
Wedding car with driver – A vehicle will be given subject to the following conditions
Hotel accommodation for a day with meals for the couple.
Health and Safety:
In organizations the responsibility of employee health and safety falls on the
supervisors or HR manager. An HR manager can help in coordinating safety
programs, making employees aware about the health and safety policy of the
company, conduct formal safety training, etc.
The operators have a accidental death insurance of Rs. 1 lac and health insurance
of Rs. 25000.
This insurance for staff is Rs. 50000, for executives is Rs. 1 lac and for managers is
Rs. 3 lac.
Grievance Handling Procedure:
Grievance means any type of dissatisfaction or discontentment’s arising out of
factors related to an employee’s job which he thinks are unfair. A grievance arises
when an employee feels that something has happened or is happening to him who
he thinks is unfair, unjust or inequitable. In an organization, a grievance may arise
due to several factors such as:
 Violation of management’s responsibility such as poor working conditions
 Violation of company’s rules and regulations
 Violation of labor laws
 Violation of natural rules of justice such as unfair treatment in promotion, etc

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Grievances Report Findings:
Most of the cases found out in the report suggest that the operators quit their job
because of the following reasons
 Family issues.
 Issues regarding the transportation and longer work hours.
 Health concerns.
 Issues related to disciplinary actions.
 Quality concerns

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CONTENTS


S. NO. TITLE PAGE NO.
1. INTRODUCTION 88
2. OBJECTIVE 88
3. PROJECT SCOPE 88
4. TEAM MEMBERS 90
5. BRAIN STORMING SESSIONS 90
6. PROJECT DETAILS 91
6.1 Project Flow Chart 91
6.2 Lean Tools Used 92
6.3 Departments and Process Covered 93
6.4 Material Flow Layout 94
6.5 Current State Analysis 95
6.6 Process Improvement and Waste Elimination 96
6.7 New Process and Mechanism 100
6.8 Standard Areas 117
6.9 Standard Worksheets 123
7. TRIAL RUN IN SECTION-4 123
8. ROLL OUT TO THE PLANT 123

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1. INTRODUCTION

Material Flow Project is a part of Lean implementation in the factory, to remove the waste from
the current processes and set a standard for all work process, areas etc. so that it will be
suitable for all workers to understand the working process, areas and their job descriptions. It is
also help to gain production with less waste of time and materials.
This project includes various process in various department and places which includes the flow
of materials such as Raw Materials Warehouse, Cutting Section, Production Modules and Finish
Goods Warehouse.
The Project starts on November 2014 under the guidance of Mr Greg Wooten and leadership of
Mr Gayan Lekamge with others team members and completed on 25
th
August 2015. Project
Team details is given below.

2. OBJECTIVE

Project covers various objectives and milestones, to simplify this we categorise into three major
objective under which major part of the project covers:

2.1. Standardise the Material Flow Process in Warehouse, Cutting & Module based on
the requirement

2.2. Implement effective method to calculate safety stock levels that incorporate the
accuracy of required WIP

2.3. Correct WIP for schedule - Right material is always available in the right quantity
in the right location

Under these various milestones, process, steps etc. are includes before starting of project as
well as during the project as per requirement. These milestones brief are given below in Project
Scope, also the document contains the details for the same.

3. PROJECT SCOPE

3.1. Standardise the Material Flow Process in Ware house , Cutting & Module based
on the requirement [Specify the Days & Volume]

3.1.1. Initial Brain Storming Session to identify the requirement

3.1.2. Prepare VSM & STW for the current state

 Material preparation at WH

 RM Issuing

 Water spider - Module / Input loader - RM to Module

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 Layering, cutting, Bundling Processes

 Cut Kit issuing

 Audit the Cutting

 RE -CUT and MRN

3.1.3. Time Study

3.1.4. Allocate lace cutting operators for the 1st block

3.1.5. Implement WIP boards at cutting tables

3.1.6. Standardized the cutting tables

3.1.7. Design trolley for water spider

3.2. Implement effective method to calculate safety stock levels that incorporate the
accuracy of required WIP [Sub KPI - Reduce Stock Level]

3.2.1. Introduce Mechanism to serve the fabric & trims from W/H to cutting table &
module

3.2.2. Optimize the marker Length

3.3. Correct WIP for schedule - Right material is always available in the right quantity
in the right location

3.3.1. Lay plan generating through SFCS

3.3.2. Multitasking cutting operator’s status

3.3.3. Review with the Project team

3.3.4. Do trial run for the Section 4 Cutting Alignment

3.3.5. Roll Out to the Plant

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4. PROJECT TEAM

Project Leader: Gayan Lekamge, Manager-Operation Planning
Sponsor: Shiran Botheju, Factory Manager
Facilitator: Udara K, Assistant Manager-Lean
Members: Herambaraoi J, Assistant Manager-RM Trims Section
Prabath S, Manager-Cutting Section
Kishore K, Assistant Manager-RM Fabric Section
Naidu K, Assistant Manager-Cutting Section
Kapila R, Assistant Manager-Quality
Tharanga M, Assistant Manager-CAD Section
Kumara N, Assistant Manager-Cutting Section
Interns: Abhishek Raj
Arpan Mahato
Sarthak Sagar
Shriya Arora

5. BRAIN STORMING SESSI ONS

Brainstorming is a group creativity technique by which efforts are made to find a conclusion for a
specific problem by gathering a list of ideas spontaneously contributed by its members. It is a
more effective than individuals working alone in generating ideas, although more recent
research has questioned this conclusion. The term is used as a catch all for all
group ideation sessions.

Brain storming sessions were organised every week with all the team members since the
starting of the project, to discuss the problems, findings and status of project as well as to
review weekly reports.
These sessions includes:
 Project Status
 Weekly review
 Task Allocation
 Sharing New Ideas
 Debates
 Discussions
 Discussing Problems
 Finding Solutions
 Suggestions and Improvements

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6. PROJECT DETAILS

6.1. Project Flow Chart:





Preparation of VSM – Current State
Analysis of Current Process
Time Study of Current Process

Eliminate Waste from Current Process


Prepare Standard Worksheets

Define Standard Areas

Introduce New Process and Mechanism

Trial in Section- 4

Continuous Improvement

Rollout to the Plant

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6.2. Lean Tools Used:

6.2.1. Value Stream Map
A tool used to visually map the flow of production. Shows the current and future
state of processes in a way that highlights opportunities for improvement.

Exposes waste in the current processes and provides a roadmap for improvement
through the future state.

6.2.2. 5S
Organize the work area:
Sort (eliminate that which is not needed)
a. Set In Order (organize remaining items)
b. Shine (clean and inspect work area)
c. Standardize (write standards for above)
d. Sustain (regularly apply the standards)

Eliminates waste that results from a poorly organized work area (e.g. wasting time
looking for a tool).

6.2.3. Andon
Visual feedback system for the plant floor that indicates production status, alerts
when assistance is needed, and empowers operators to stop the production
process.

Acts as a real-time communication tool for the plant floor that brings immediate
attention to problems as they occur – so they can be instantly addressed.

6.2.4. Continuous Flow
Manufacturing where work-in-process smoothly flows through production with
minimal (or no) buffers between steps of the manufacturing process.

Eliminates many forms of waste (e.g. inventory, waiting time, and transport).

6.2.5. Kaizen (Continuous Improvement)
A strategy where employees work together proactively to achieve regular,
incremental improvements in the manufacturing process.

Combines the collective talents of a company to create an engine for continually
eliminating waste from manufacturing processes.

6.2.6. Kanban (Pull System)
A method of regulating the flow of goods both within the factory and with outside
suppliers and customers. Based on automatic replenishment through signal cards
that indicate when more goods are needed

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Eliminates waste from inventory and overproduction. Can eliminate the need for
physical inventories (instead relying on signal cards to indicate when more goods
need to be ordered).

6.2.7. Standardized Work
Documented procedures for manufacturing that capture best practices (including
the time to complete each task). Must be “living” documentation that is easy to
change.

Eliminates waste by consistently applying best practices. Forms a baseline for
future improvement activities.

6.3. Department and Processes Covered
The department and process that includes in the project are given below:

6.3.1. RM Warehouse Process
6.3.1.1. Fabric Preparation
6.3.1.2. Lace Preparation
6.3.1.3. Trims Preparation
6.3.1.4. Fabric/Lace Issuing – Lean
6.3.1.5. Fabric/Lace Issuing – Non Lean
6.3.1.6. Trims Issuing
6.3.1.7. Re-Cut Issuing
6.3.1.8. MRN (Material Request Note) Issuing

6.3.2. Cutting Section Process
6.3.2.1. Spreading
6.3.2.2. Cutting- Straight Knife
6.3.2.3. Cutting- Band Knife
6.3.2.4. Bundling
6.3.2.5. Lace Cutting
6.3.2.6. Quality Audit
6.3.2.7. Cutting Input Issue

6.3.3. Production Area Process

6.3.3.1. Sewing Trims Input
6.3.3.2. Packing Trims Input

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6.4. MATERIAL FLOW LAYOUT:

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6.5. Current State Analysis

6.5.1. Preparation of Value Stream Map:

At the starting of project the first thing that required was Value Stream Map of
Current State. This include each and every process that takes place with in
different departments of the Factory. Meanwhile every department also prepared
VSM for their department. Also simultaneously VSM for Future State was prepared.
VSM Current State

6.5.2. Work Study of Current Processes:

Work Study is the systematic examination of the methods of carrying out activities
such as to improve the effective use of resources and to set up standards of
performance for the activities carried out.

After preparation of VSM the team focused on the various process with in different
departments which includes the flow of materials and can be responsible for the
wastage of materials and time.

For analysing the work procedure we used different methods as:
6.5.3. Method Study:

Systematic recording & critical examination of the way of doing a work as a mean
for developing more effective methods & reducing costs.

We observe the operators and all work procedure for both shifts to understand
present working process and how the operator is performing their work. So that we
will able to think for better working method and process which will more easily and
effective for both operators and company.

6.5.4. Time Study:

Establishing the time required by a qualified worker to carry out a specified job at a
defined level of performance.

During method study we also conduct time study for all these operators and
process, so that we can know about the process time and duration of each steps.
These study helped us to find wastage in all the process such as:

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 Unnecessary work process,
 Duplication of work,
 Idle Time
 Misunderstanding between workers
 No Standard working process


6.6. Process Improvement and Waste Elimination:

The wastage that we found during the work studies of operators and the processes, we
sorted out problems and take necessary changes where required and eliminate
unnecessary process and steps.

The problems and the waste that we found in each department, area and process and
the action taken for that are given below with possible and actual results.

RM Warehouse Process

Process Problems/Issue Action Taken Results
Fabric Preparation

Idle Time
Inefficient use of
Relaxation M/C
Improper use of
resources available
New marker window
constructed to
reduce idle time for
collecting marker
Responsibilities
divided equally
Specific areas
allotted for
resources
Idle time reduced
drastically
Standardization of work
procedure
Lace Preparation

Duplication of work –
preparing pick list twice

Picklist to be
prepared after the
lace has been
prepared
Waste of time and paper
reduced
Trims Preparation

Proper supervision not
done leading to idle
time
Improper training
leading to waste of
trims as they aren’t
properly prepared- in
case of laces
Strict supervision
done to enhance
speed of workers
and their sincerity
towards work
Idle time reduced and
trims prepared on time
without any delays
Fabric/Lace Issuing
– Lean

A person especially
needs to go and check
need and availability of
fabric/lace
Cutting team not to
request fabric till
they haven’t
completed cutting
for previous ones
This will reduce
unnecessary use of a
person and time

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Fabric/Lace Issuing
– Non Lean

Lots of idle time for
unloading person as the
issuing person used to
get the marker from cad
room and get the
signatures form the
supervisor
Responsibility of
getting the marker
handed over to the
unloading person so
that the issuing
person doesn’t
waste his time in
waiting for marker
and can start
preparing next
fabric/lace
Total cycle time of
preparing and issuing
fabric/lace reduced making
the standard work more
efficient
Trims Issuing

Duplication of work
Multiple counting
Take more time for
issuing
Standardised work
process.
One time Counting
only
Time Saving
No Idle Time
Quickly Issued
Marker Window
Apart from these process others problems that are also responsible for many others
problems like duplication of work, late response, carelessness etc. that we observe
during work study.
For these problems we recommended some suggestions and improvements that are
given below.

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RM WAREHOUSE SUGGEST ION


S.No. Existing Procedure Suggestion/Improvement Advantage
1 The issuing person collects
the marker which is not his job
according to the standard
worksheet. Also there is a lot
of idle time in case marker is
not prepared.
The collection of marker should
be the responsibility of the
unloading person.
It will save a lot of time
as the issuing person
can start with a new
docket instead of
waiting idly for the
marker to be ready.
2 The issuing person waits at
the c-tex table till the partial
roll is cut even if it requires
idle time prior to cutting
because of the machine being
pre-occupied.
Instead of the issuing person
standing and waiting for the fabric
to be ready he could simply
handover the roll to the c-tex
machine operator to prepare and
in the meanwhile continue with his
work. The c-tex machine operator
can call the issuing person when
he is done with the fabric cutting.
This will reduce the
idle time of issuing
operators.
3 The resources like scissors,
calculator, and stickers etc.
that are provided to the
workers to help them
complete their task are hardly
in their place. A lot of time of
workers is wasted in
searching for these resources.
The resources or the equipment
should be kept at correct places
so that the operator need not
search for it.
Reduction in wasted
time.
4 Picking list according to the
standard worksheet is to be
given to issuing operator
along with the docket itself
but in case of lace it becomes
difficult as the quantity issued
is either less or more
depending upon the roll
quantity in box. To overcome
this RM came up with a new
idea of cutting the exact
amount of lace as required
and then giving to the cutting
section giving a reason that
there is shortage in the last
cut no.
The solution that the RM has
found is not only time taking but
also increases the risk of
mistakes and wastage as the
cutting will be done manually.
Discussion with CAD room people
concluded that they have no
issues regarding this. The
shortage hardly occurs according
to their reports. So there is no
point in increasing the cycle time
of lace preparation and also
increasing the risk of wastage.
Reduction in cycle
time and low risk of
wastage.
5 The presence of only one
printer makes the work
process slow.
The fabric side should also be
provided with a printer as on the
accessories side.
Reduction in walking
and waiting time of the
operators
6 The issuing operators are
asked to fill the inspection
report after taking the material
from racks.
There is no need of getting this
filled as the quantity taken out and
left gets automatically updated in
M3.
This will save time and
would reduce the
wastage of paper
hence being
environmentally
friendly.

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Cutting Section Process

Process Problems/Issue Action Taken Results
Spreading No Standard Spreading
Table

No Standard Marker Length

No Standard Worksheet

No Standard time limit for
spreading
Standardise Cutting
Table for 5 yards
marker length

Standardise Marker
length to 5 yards

Prepare Standard
Worksheets

Developed a time
calculator for
Spreading
Standard plan for all
module

Easy Marker preparation
and planning

Time saving

Easy to forecast required
time and planning for next
lot number

Cutting-
Straight Knife

No Standard Time for
straight knife operator

No Standard Worksheet

Developed a time
calculator for cutting

Prepare Standard
Worksheet
Required time is known

Easy to allot operator for
next lot number
Cutting- Band
Knife

No Standard Worksheet

No Standard block
distribution

Unknown time taken by band
knife operator
Prepare Standard
Worksheet

Allotted one band
knife for two
spreading table

Developed a time
calculator for cutting

Standard work procedure

Time saving

Required time known
Bundling

No Standard Worksheet

No Standard place for
bundling

Operator not allotted to any
table

No standard area for keeping
completed bundles
Prepare Standard
Worksheet

Standardise and
allotted bundling
space

Allotted one operator
for one band knife
Time Saving

No need to search bundles
here and there

Lace Cutting

All Lace cut at one place for
all modules

Lace will cut on same
spreading of required
module
Less transportation

Flexible work process
Cutting Input
Issue
All bundles issued at a time
to modules

Counting Bundles multiple
times
Change issuing
process

Change distribution
process
Time saving

Less WIP

Reduce work process

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Production Area Process

Process Problems/Issue Action Taken Results
Sewing Trims
Input
No Standard Worksheet

Unnecessary Process

Duplication of work

Separate operator for Labels
and Trims issuing

Prepare Standard
Worksheets

Eliminate
Unnecessary
Process

One operator for one
section
Known Cycle Time

Time saving

Reduce Manpower
Packing
Trims Input

No Standard Worksheet


Prepare Standard
Worksheet
Known Cycle Time

4.14. New Processes and Mechanism
During the analysis and work study of all process we came to know that there need of new
and improved process and mechanism that can save more time and reduce waste.
So here are some new process and mechanism that we implemented during the project with
the permissions and suggestions of all team members.

Water Spider
Water Spider's Trolley
First Operator’s Input Basket
Lace Relaxation M/C
Cutting WIP Board
IPS and IMS Input Basket
Input Identification Card
Andon Process
Cutting Table Andon Process
Module Andon Process
Rework Andon Process
Rejection Andon Process

Some of the above process are new and some improvement of old process.
All the details and before and after scenario are given below.

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Water Spider
Water Spider is an operator allotted for distributing sewing trims and bundles to each
and every work station in the module. Previously operator have to leave there place to
collect the trims and bundles, which was downtime for production. Presently one water
spider is handling 4 modules or one block.









Before and After: Water Spider

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Water Spider’s Trolley
Trolley for water spider to distribute trims and bundles easily in a single walking time.
















Before and After: Water Spider’s Trolley

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First Operator’s Input Basket
This is an innovative steps to reduce transportation and control WIP in the module.
Previously operator have to leave her place to collect bundles and grab 7-8 bundles as
per her mood. But now there will only two hour input nearby her in the basket, which will
provided by water spider directly.















Before and After: First Operator’s Input Basket

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Lace Relaxation Machine
This machine developed within the factory by R&D department to relaxed the lace and
elastic that comes in a roll form or in carton from the suppliers, Previously there was no
such machine, operator or water spider have to unroll these rolls manually which was
very time taking.














Before and After: Lace Relaxation Machine

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Cutting WIP Board
This board is used for updating the WIP of the module for each hour including job
number, style number, no. of pieces etc.










Before and After: Cutting WIP Board

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IPS and IMS Input Basket
As we explain the problem of cutting section, the problem of bundling and the issuing
this is the very good solution for that. We allotted 4 basket to each module 2 for Cut
Prepared Bundles and 2 for Module Ready Bundles with in same spreading table.

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Input Identification Card
This is a Kanban card prepare for visual identification for trims and cutting input
requirement as well as location.
Input Identification Card (Availability)


Input Identification Card (Location)

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Andon Process
Cutting Andon
















Before and After: Cutting Andon

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Cutting Andon Process
Andon Proces
Value Stream
BAI1
Problem
RED for MRN pending/fabric damage/width shortage/closed markers/stain marks
YELLOW for Quality/Technical problem
GREEN forRM problem-fabric unavailable
Cutting table
ANDONswitchen ON
by cutting opeartor
accoding to the
problem
Relevant
Specialist will
attend and
solve the
problem
Cutting sectionsupervisor needs to
attaend and identify the problem
Cuttingsection
technician and quality
supervisor
RM Warehouseallocated person
will attend and check for fabric
avalability
Basedon the fabric avalabilty or
unavalability the allocated person
will raise the request
In caseof Inspection related problem RM
Inspection supervisor needs to attend and
solve the problem
GREEN
YELLO
RED

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Module Andon: Current Process

Workplace ANDON switched ON by SMO
ANDON Process
Problem Occured
Team Leader will attend and identify the problem
Team Leader will try to solve the problem
If Yes
Team Leader will solve the problem& switch OFF the Workplace ANDON
If No
Team Leader will Switch on the main ANDON Alarm
Team Leader will update the problem in PCB
RED for Machineproblem
YELLOW for Quality problem
GREEN forCutting and RM problem

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Section HOD need to attend and solvethe problem
AfterHOD solvesthe problem Team Leader needs
to switch OFF the ANDON Alarm
Team Leader will update the problem in PCB
Mechanic
QualitySupervisor
and Technician
Relevant Specialist willsolve the problem
If Yes
TeamLeader will switch OFF the main ANDON and update the
Countermeasures for the problem in PCB
If No
Within 10 min problem not solved
Relevant Specialist willattend and identify the problem
Cutting section Supervisor and
Technician&RM WarehouseMQC

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Module Andon: Proposed Process

Andon Proces
Value Stream
BAI1
RED for Machineproblem
YELLOW for Quality/Technical problem
GREEN forCutting and RM problem
Problem
Workplace
ANDON
switched ON
by SMO
Team Leader
will attend and
identify the
problem
Team Leader will try to
solve the problem
Yes
Team Leader will solve the problem & switch OFF the
Workplace ANDON
No
Team Leader will Switch
on the main ANDON
Team Leader
will update
the problem
in PCB
Group Leader
must attend
to the Line

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Mechanic
Quality Supervisor
and Technician
Cutting section Supervisor and
Technician & RM Warehouse M
Relevant
Specialist will
attend and
identify the
problem
Relevant Specialist will solve the problem Team Leader will switch
OFF the main ANDON
Yes
Specialist update the
Countermeasures for the
problem in PCBNo
Within 10 min
problem not
solved
ANDON Alarm
will start ringing
automatically
Section HOD/Shift
Executive need to
attend and solve
the problem
After HOD solves the problem Team Leader needs
to switch OFF the ANDON Alarm

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Rework Andon Process
Andon Proces
Value Stream
BAI1


RED for Machineproblem
YELLOW for Quality/Technical problem
GREEN forCutting and RM problem
Problem
More than3
Reworks in the
module
Team Leader
will attend and
identify the
problem
Team Leader will try
to solve the problem
Yes
Team Leader will solve the problem & switch OFF the
Workplace ANDON
No
Team Leader will Switch
on the main ANDON
Last workplace
ANDON
switched ON
by Checking
Operator

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Team Leader
will update
the problem
in PCB
Group Leader
must attend
to the Line
Mechanic
Quality Supervisor
and Technician
Cutting section Supervisor and
Technician & RM Warehouse M
Relevant
Specialist will
attend and
identify the
problem
Relevant Specialist will solve the problem Team Leader will switch
OFF the main ANDON
Yes
Specialist update the
Countermeasures for the
problem in PCBNo
Within 10 min
problem not
solved
ANDON Alarm
will start ringing
automatically
Section HOD/Shift
Executive need to
attend and solve
the problem
After HOD solves the problem Team Leader needs
to switch OFF the ANDON Alarm

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Rejection Andon Process

Andon Proces
Value Stream
BAI1


Problem
Checking
operator will
hang reject
garments in
hanger
Quality supervisor and
technician needsto
attend and check the
reject garments in case
they can be repaired
No
If more than 6 reject
garments are there
then checking operator
will switch on Checking
table ANDON
Yes
Garment to be repaired with
the involvementof Team
Leader and Technicain
Checking Table ANDON
switched off by TeamLeader
Team Leader will update the
RejectGarment in Rejection
Review Sheet

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4.15. Standard Areas:
Standard Input Area
It is an area in each module for keeping Threads, Lace and Elastic issued from RM
Warehouse. These trims issued transported, and arranged by an operator called Trims
Input Loader and after that Water Spider distributed to all work stations.

Before and After: Standard Input Area

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Space Utilization in Input Area













Before and After: Space Utilization in Input Area

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Standard Output Area
Output area is opposite side of the input area in each module where production balance
and packed carton should be kept as well as the Production Control Board which
updated with hourly output and PDCA.
Before and After: Standard Output Area

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Standard Cutting Area

Side View from Central Gangway

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Side View from Module

22.11 m
2.95 m
13 m
0.85 m
1.4 m
Cutting Area
3.4 m
3.65 m

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Standard Return Area
Return area is the area allotted for keeping balance trims like threads, lace, and elastic.
Which are reused in training centre or shred it or utilised in another way.
Except threads all other trims send for shredding after getting permissions from buyer.-

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4.16. Standard Worksheets
Standard worksheets that we prepared during this project while doing work study of each
process are given below.


5. Trial Run in Section-4
All the above new process, standardisation are initially implemented in Section-4 out of four
section of the plant. There was many continuous improvement also done during trial run. We got
to know all positive and negative outcome of new process and the change in the process.

Trial was running successfully in the plant, we conduct routine inspection of each changes
made, also find and try to improve problems continuously. We initially started in one block i;e 4
modules. Then one by one implemented to others blocks and modules of section four.

6. Rollout out to the Plant
Since when we started this project on 27
th
May 2015 there was there was only 12 Lean Modules
without these standards and new implementations but after successful trial run in section 4 we
roll out to total 24 Modules which are now Lean Modules and project is successfully
implemented and running in those modules.

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CONTENTS

S. NO. TITLE PAGE NO.
1. Introduction 126
2. Objective 126
3. Requirements 126
4. Need of Time Calculator in Spreading and Cutting
Department
127
5. Development of Calculator 128
6. Factor used for Calculating Time 129
7. How to Use Time Calculator 129
8. Specification 134
9. Comparison Chart Time Study and Calculator Result 135
10. Benefits of Spreading and Cutting Time Calculator 137

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Spreading and Cutting Time Calculator:

1. Introduction:
It is a programmed software developed on Microsoft Excel using Macros and others
features of excel. It is helped to calculate the time of each and every process takes
place in spreading and cutting department, after feeding some data that are already
given on ‘Docket’ a computer generated Lay Plan sheet with all information of that
particular lot number.

2. Objective:
To calculate the minimum time taken by the all process individually as well as overall
Process Time
3. Requirements:
 Operator Skill Matrix
 Time Study of every process
 Prepare database of marker perimeter for each style
 Find the unit time factor for each process (Formula)
 Macros Programing in Excel Sheet

Multi-Tasking Cutting Operators Status:

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4. Need of Time Calculator in Spreading and Cutting Department
What will happen if you don’t know how long it is going to spread a particular lay and
how long it will take to do the cutting and bundling? There was a same situation in our
industry also, the cutting department did everything on the basis of assumptions only.
There was no any calculator or something which will give the timings.

This lead too many problems like delay in cutting, or pre-cutting, line sitting idle etc.
Styles were very different from each other so it became more cumbersome to predict
time.
Problems Faced By Spreading and Cutting Section in BAI-1:
 Rough idea about spreading and cutting time
 Delay in cutting
 Sometime too much pre-cutting
 More WIP
 Operators sitting idle
 Overall more idle time
Since, the factory started lean manufacturing process, all these things were a big waste
for the factory. The waste was in all area starting from time, money, manpower etc.
Thinking about all this we started giving more time to cutting section.
Brain Storming Session
During the visits we came across the idea to develop a calculator which will calculate
time for cutting, later we decided to cover all the activities starting from spreading to
bundling. The main problem which we came across was in cutting because of variation
in styles, each style was completely different from other. We decided to do the time
study of as many styles as we can.
We started our time studies of various activities. Suddenly it came in our mind that why
we don’t take the linear length or the cutting perimeter of each piece of every style and
then on the basis of our time studies take out a factor which will be common for all
styles i.e. linear length and cutting time per inch. We did the time study for both straight
knife and band knife and came out with a factor. It was 1.5 minutes for straight knife and
1.8 minutes for band knife.
5. Development of Calculator
After doing the time study of all we started working on calculator. Slowly and steadily we
included all the parts in cutting section. We connected this to perimeter database and
used macros and other programming tools to make it more easy to use. We validated
each part so that wrong input can’t be given.

This became very useful for the section to plan the spreading and cutting and also the
allotment of operators. Now the section was working more efficiently and waste reduced
to a very minimal amount.

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Spreading and Cutting Time Calculator
In our visit to cutting section of the industry we came across a problem which was that
there was no any method by which they can calculate that how long it will take to
spread, cut and bundle a particular cut number. We took this as an opportunity to
develop a calculator which will calculate the time of the whole spreading to bundling
process.
Spreading
For completing this task first we started out time study of spreading of different types of
fabric with different marker length and number of plies and on the basis of our reading
we calculated how long it is going to take to lay a single layer per yard with fabric type.
There were three types of fabric
 Solid- No technicality.
 Print- No technicality.
 Stripes- Need to keep the stripes straight while spreading.
We calculated the time per yard for all types of fabric and in our calculator we gave an
option to select type of fabric so that the result should come almost exact. Both
solid/print and stripes has different factors which get multiplied by the length of marker
and number of layers to give the total spreading time.

Taping
In the standard process the operator has to make holes in marker and then stick it with
fabric layer using tape. In some cases when the fabric is slippery i.e. it contains more
polyester and spandex, the operator solders the layers using soldering iron in order to
prevent fabric layers from slipping. The second process takes more time and hence we
gave the option of taping/taping with soldering in the calculator. The person can select
the method and the calculator will give time.
Cutting
In the process of cutting, we observed that in some case the cutting was done one by
one that is the operator will first divide the lay in blocks using straight knife also he may
cut the shapes if the patterns are big like the back part of some styles and then
distribute it to band knife for cutting of other parts.

In some cases the straight knife operator will keep on dividing the lay and one operator
will keep on distributing it to the band knife operator, this process is termed as cutting
together. So, in calculator we gave the option of both which can be selected by the user
as per his requirement to get the exact cutting time. It will give cutting time separate for
both straight knife and band knife as per the distribution selected by the user as well as
it will provide the total cutting time.

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Bundling
Based on the number of patterns on the marker, calculator automatically calculates the
time which operator will take to finish the bundling. The factor on which it calculates time
is based on the time study which was conducted by us on various styles.
Idle Time
We gave an option of including the idle time in the process of calculating total time
because during our time studies we came across that some problem happens in the
process which leads delay in the spreading and cutting process. So if such cases
happen in between the person can enter the total idle time to get the exact time.

6. Factors used for Calculating Time
Since calculation is based on factors, so the factors that we used for different
process in spreading and cutting department is totally based on our work study and
time study of each and every process,

Since we have the skill matrix of all operators in cutting section, and most of them
are having similar skills level, so it was easy to find the common factor for them.

The factors that we used is not only based on only working or process time it also
have some allowance as per process requirements.

Spreading: 20sec/yard
Taping: 5sec/pattern
Cutting- Straight Knife: 1.5sec/inch
Cutting- Band Knife: 1.8sec/inch
Bundling: 45sec/bundle


7. How To Use Time Calculator
The user needs to enter Style number, Marker Length and Number of plies. Later he
has to click on update button, doing this will give the perimeter of the parts of particular
style in all size ratios.

The calculator will retrieve the information stored in the database. CAD section is
responsible for updating the database if any new style comes.

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Lay Plan Sheet- Cutting Docket

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Once user gets the perimeter he needs to select the type of fabric (solid/stripes) to get
the spreading time.


Now the user needs to enter the .ratio i.e. size break up in the pattern to get total
number of pieces and total perimeter to be cut as well as the time it will take to cut using
straight knife and band knife separately, also it gives time for each part separately.

It gives total cutting time (it takes band knife time as cutting time because mostly the
parts are cut using band knife) also it gives the total of spreading and cutting time and
bundling time.

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After doing all this the user has to enter the cutting type and taping type to get the exact
cutting time and taping time also he needs to enter the distribution that how many parts
will be cut using straight knife and automatically it will put the rest parts in band knife.


The pieces part will show the balance pieces if anything remains by mistake. This was
done for error proofing.

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After doing all this user can get
 Spreading Time
 Straight Knife Time
 Band Knife Time
 Total Cutting Time
 Cutting Duration
 Taping Time
 Bundling Time
 Total Process Time

Now suppose there is some problem in fabric or the operator goes for a break then for
some time the lay will be idle, that time can be included in idle time to get the
approximate time.

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8. Specification

Error proofing
Validation has been done in every section so that there is no or minimum error. The
sections in which user doesn’t need to enter anything has been protected by
password in order to protect unauthorised persons from changing the formulae.




Reset
A reset button has been made in order to clear everything in one go. This reduces
the task of clearing things again and again.

After clicking reset button everything got cleared.

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Database
The database from which the software retrieves data has to be filled and updated by
the CAD room people.

9. Comparison Table of Time Study and Calculator’s Result:

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0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
Spreading Taping Straight Knife Band Knife Bundling
Style 14745
Time StudyCalculator
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
Spreading Taping Straight Knife Band Knife Bundling
Style 16443
Time StudyCalculator
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
Spreading Taping Straight Knife Band Knife Bundling
Style 16443
Time StudyCalculator

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It is very clear from the comparison table and graph that spreading, taping and bundling
time are almost same for both time study and calculator but there is a difference in
timing of cutting in both straight and band knife.

This time can be reduced with the help of calculator. Once the correct timings are
known, the idle time can be reduced to a very minimal level.
Before kaizen
Manual time study of spreading and cutting processes
After kaizen
Time calculator


10. Benefits of Spreading and Cutting Time Calculator:
 User can get spreading time, taping time, cutting time, bundling time.
 Planning of cutting became very easy.
 Less WIP
 Proper management of operators.
 Less or no delay
 Idle time minimized a lot.

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CONTENTS

S. NO. TITLE PAGE NO.
1. Introduction 140
2. Methodology 140
3. Objective 141
4. Significance of Project 142
5. Requirements 142
6. Operating Procedure 143
7. Introduction to GSD System 150
8. Findings 159
9. Conclusion 172

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1. NTRODUCTION
Standardised work procedures are suggested, approved and overseen by managers
and supervisors but are developed by the staff members performing the work. The main
objective of standardized work is to ensure employee safety and also to remove the 8
lean wastes at the process level.
The baseline standardised work procedures should reflect the agreed upon best
practices of the work group: the one best way to perform the work today.
The benefits associated with the implementation of standardised work procedures are:
1. Employee involvement and empowerment
2. Improved productivity without added stress
3. Improved, consistent quality
4. Reduction or elimination of errors and mistakes(cause of defects)
5. Work process stability
6. Increased employee safety
7. Improved cost management as wastes are reduced
8. Availability of a great tool for staff training
9. Visual Management- managers and supervisors can see when processes are not
operation normally.
The typical problems uncovered by standardized work procedures and its development
are:
1. Labour imbalances
2. Inadequate tools
3. Difficult work methods
4. Irregular work flow
5. Poorly defined work sequence
6. Poorly defined work responsibilities
7. Quality problems
8. Little or limited operator support

2. METHODOLOGY
The Six Sigma DMAIC process methodology is a system that brings measurable and
significant improvement to existing procedures that are falling below standards. The
DMAIC methodology can be used when a process is in existence but still not performing
adequately.
There are five phases of DMAIC project methodology.

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1. Define the problem and the project goals specifically.
2. Measure key aspects of current process and collect relevant data.
3. Analyse the data to investigate and verify cause-and-effect relationships.
4. Improve or optimize the current process based upon data analysis, and standard
work to create a new, future state process.
5. Control the future state process to ensure that any deviations from the target are
corrected before they result in defects
PHASE1:
3. OBJECTIVE
The main objective of this project is to standardise work procedures at operator level
i.e. for sewing operations and their digitalization.
Traditionally operated garments industries are facing problems like low productivity,
longer production lead time, high rework and rejection, low flexibility of style
changeover, etc. These problems can be overcome by the implementation of lean tools.
One such lean tool is the WORK STANDARDIZATION .
This project deals with the implementation of this particular lean tool at the sewing
operator level.

ANY STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE SOLVES THE FOLLOWING
PURPOSES:

1. SOP’s detail the daily recurring work processes that are to be conducted within
an organisation.
2. They document the way the activities are to be performed to facilitate consistent
conformance to technical and quality system requirements and to support data
quality.
3. They may describe fundamental programmatic actions and technical actions
such as analytical processes, and process for maintaining, calibrating and using
equipment.
4. SOPs are intended to be specific to the organization or facility whose activities
are described and assist that organisation to maintain their quality control and
quality assurance processes and ensure compliance with governmental
regulations.
5. The development and use of SOPs minimises variation and promotes quality
through consistent implementation of a process or procedure within the
organisation even if there are temporary or permanent personnel changes.

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6. SOPs can be used for personnel training program, since they provide detailed
work instructions.
7. It minimises opportunities for miscommunication and can address safety
concerns.

Ultimately, the benefits of a valid SOP are reduced work effort along with
improved comparability, credibility, and legal defensibility.

4. SIGNIFICANCE OF THE PROJECT:

1. The study of SOP will prove beneficial as the current procedures being practiced
in the industry will be examined and our theoretical knowledge of the subject
shall gain a practical exposure.
2. A comparison between the standard procedures and the actual being followed
will prove beneficial in listing the short comings of the current procedure being
followed.
3. The thorough study and examination of the process and procedures shall provide
us with a clear picture of the entire system of manufacturing.

PHASE 2 & PHASE 3:

5. REQUIREMENTS
The basic required activities to complete this project were as follows:
1. Selection of the area in which this project will be executed.
2. Analysing the existing work procedures going on so as to find the root causes of
problems.
3. Analysis of the existing worksheets for respective sewing operations.
4. A complete data of all the General Sewing Data for all the operations in all the
styles being worked upon.
5. A clear understanding of all the codes and calculations mentioned in GSDs.
6. Solutions for operations that need to be simplified or standardised.
7. Practical implication of the solutions sorted out.
8. Difference between the existing and proposed work procedure.
9. Standardization of the best method.

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10. Digitalization on the official website of Brandix Apparel India- Unit 1 so as to
make it standard all over.


RAW MATERIALS REQUIRED

1. List of all the styles running in the area selected to execute the project.
2. Existing worksheets for all the operations in all the styles selected.
3. General Sewing Data for all the operations in all the styles.

6. OPERATING PROCEDURE
There are in total 4 sections on the production floor of Brnadix Apparel India – Unit 1.
Each section consists of 16 modules which makes it to be 64 modules in total.

The implementation of Lean manufacturing is not very old to this industry i.e. it started
just a few months back so only a limited amount of modules are Lean Modules. The
total number of lean modules are on a count of 21. As this project is a part of lean
implementation in the industry the 21 lean modules were selected.

The total number of styles running in these 21 lean modules were 12 styles. The list of
styles running in 21 lean modules are listed below:

S.No Style Buyer Garment view
1 16044 VS PINK

2 16443 VS PINK

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3 41184 VS LOGO

4 61414 VS LOGO

5 15859 VS PINK

6 16074 VS PINK

7 20692 VS LOGO

8 61418 VS LOGO

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9 43723 VS LOGO

10 21515 VS LOGO

11 16250 VS PINK

12 16223 VS PINK

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An example of the standard worksheets followed in Brandix apparel India – Unit 1 is:

After the selection of the modules and styles began the analysis of current
working procedures and worksheets.
1. First thing that was noticed was that whatever worksheets were available for
every operation, maximum number of operators were not following it.

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2. The working procedures in some cases were such that the Lean Principle of
One-piece flow could not be followed.



3. For some of the modules the layout was inappropriate as the transportation of
garment was more or movement of employee was not ergonomically correct and
leads to fatigue

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4. Also it was noticed that the skill of employees wasn’t updated which led to
increase in the WIP in between the modules where the operator was not skilled
and this also increased number of reworks and rejections.


5. The workspace wasn’t properly utilised by the operators thereby decreasing their
area of movement of hands.
6. The work procedure mentioned in the worksheets and their visual descriptions
weren’t clear hence making it difficult for the operators to understand and follow.

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7. For a similar operation in different modules the work procedure was different
signifying that either or none of them was standard.


8. The allowances given in terms of time was either too much or too less.
9. For some styles worksheets didn’t exist. Previous styles that were a little bit
similar to the current style, their worksheets were used for the current style even
if some changes were required.

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Next process was to go through a detailed study of the General Sewing Data so as to
understand all the codes and calculations for allowances to sum up the smv for each
operation and style.

7. What is GSD System?
General Sewing Data (GSD) is a PTS (Pre-Determined Time standards) based time
measuring system. GSD can be explained as:
“GSD provides a scientific, ethical and auditable approach to quantifying manufacturing
methods, times and costs and accurately and consistently establishes International
Standard Time for complete products (styles) or individual product component (features).
GSD provides the ability to establish and quantify each step or operation in the
manufacturing process”
GSD delivers:
1. Substantial time reduction for style costing and style introduction.
2. Improvement in overall consistency rates.
3. Evaluation and justification of new equipment methods.
4. Overall management of manufacturing standards data base.
5. Efficiency of operator training via method specification
An example of GSD as used in the industry is:

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For each operation in a particular style a different GSD was provided along with a
style file. A detailed study had to be done to understand the basis of calculating SMV
required for each operation and its breakdown.

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In the GSD all the allowances are given based on the operation and its criticality.
The final smv is the sum of the total time required to complete the process + allowances
given based on man and machine.

The next thing to go through were the GSD codes. Each and every
operation can be identified by a code mentioned at the starting of each operation
breakdown.

The various GSD codes used are mentioned below:

S.NO

CODE

DESCIPTION
1 MG2T Match and Get 2 parts Together
2 MG2S Match and Get 2 parts Separately
3 FOOT (match) part(s) to machine Foot
4 MAPE Match and Add Parts with one
hand(Easy)
5 MAP1 Match and Add Parts with 1 hand
6 MAP2 Match and Add Parts with 2 hand
7 AM2P Align or Adjust 2 Parts
8 AJPT Align or Adjust 1 Part
9 ARPN Align and Reposition Parts
10 APSH Align or Adjust Parts by Sliding
11 FFLD Form Fold

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12 FCRS Form Crease in folder part
13 FUNF Unfold or lay out
14 TCUT Trim-Cut with scissors(1st)
15 TCAT Trim- Additional Cut with scissors
16 TDCH Trim-De-Chain parts with scissors
17 APSH Aside-Push away
18 AS1H Aside-Part with 1 Hand
19 AS2H Aside- Part with 2 Hands
20 GP1E Get Part with 1 hand (Easy)
21 GP2H Get Part with 2 Hands
22 GPAG Get Part by Adjusting Grasp
23 PPAL Put Part to Approximate Location
24 PPOH Put Part to Other Hand
25 PPL1 Put Part Locate Once
26 PPL2 Put Part Locate Twice



After understanding and going through all the codes and their abbreviations, started the
calculation and conversion of GSD unit TMU into seconds so as to calculate the smv of
each operational breakdown.
TMU stands for Time Measuring Unit. The conversion factor of TMU to SEC. is
1 TMU= 0.033 sec
So if for an element in an operation TMU is 76 then it means that the particular element
requires (76*0.03) 2.508sec for its completion without any allowances.

After all the elements’ timing is converted from TMU to sec for a particular operation, the
sum of timings of all elements is calculated.

The sum that is obtained is the smv of that operation without any allowances. After this
the actual smv written at the end of the GSD for that operation is multiplied by 60 to
convert it into seconds.

The difference of the actual smv(mentioned in the GSD) and the obtained smv gives the
total allowances that are to be given for that particular operation. After this the difference
obtained is divided by the number of element breakdowns for that particular operation
and then the remainder is added to all the elements, thereby giving allowance for all the
elements and to the operation as a whole.

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Example:

So,
S.NO TMU sec
1 107 3.21
2 38 1.14
3 61 1.83
4 31.7 0.951
5 10 0.03
6 23 0.69
7
8 4.6 0.138
9 4.6 0.138
10 9.4 0.282
11 1.4 0.042
12 2 0.06
13 1.4 0.042

The total time will be 8.553sec.
The smv of the operation mentioned in the GSD is 0.1877 i.e. 11.262 sec.
So the total allowances given for this operation is: (11.262-8.553) = 2.709 sec
After we prepare the standard worksheet by merging some of the elements (as
each element can’t be individually presented) the difference will be divided by the number
of elements written down for the final worksheet. For instance if the total number of

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elements in this case are taken to be 5 then allowance for each element will be (2.709/5)
= 0.5418 sec
This 0.5418 will be added to the time of each element and hence the final time
required will be calculated.
NOTE: Allowance will not be added in the sewing time as there is no change in
machine time if there are any human errors or issues. The machine working time remains
the same.

After going through a detailed understanding of the General Sewing Data, we
started to analyse the already existing worksheets and work procedures once again but
this time on the basis of the comparison with the GSD.
Some of the things that we had to keep in mind while going through this complete
process were:
1. Check if the operational breakdown as followed in the module is similar to that
of the GSD or not.
2. The machinery used for each operation should match with what is mentioned
in the GSD.
3. If there is any change in machinery, there should be a valid and acceptable
reason for the same.
4. The elemental breakdown of each operation should have no element more or
less in comparison with the GSD. It can be less if it is directly or indirectly
beneficial to worker and production but cannot be more.
With all these instructions in mind, we started to work upon the modules. Firstly,
we had to check that the module we are visiting or the style we have to work upon has an
existing set of standard worksheets or not. For few styles either the standard worksheets
weren’t available or if they were available they won’t be relevant to that style i.e. the
standard worksheets will be of some similar style but not that style in particular. In cases
the standard worksheets were available, we went through the operational breakdown as
being followed in the module and compared it with the GSD mentioned operational
breakdown.
After this each and every operation was analysed thoroughly and difference noted
down if any found in comparison with the GSD. While analysing we also noticed if there
were any problems related to transportation or work procedure of operators. If any such
problems were found out and could be easily improved, they were immediately worked
upon and altered.

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Some of the basic faults or errors found in the existing worksheets were:
1. Time allowed for an operation or an element in an operation was much more than
required and mentioned in the GSD.
- Existing STW

- GSD data


2. Element eliminated in STW although it was mentioned in GSD

- Trimming mentioned in GSD

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- No trimming element mention in STW


3. Addition of an unnecessary element in an operation which is not required and
which is nowhere mentioned in GSD for that operation.

- Checking to be done as per STW

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- Checking to be done is nowhere mentioned in GSD


4. Machine (AUTO) time cannot change (increase or decrease) in any case when
compared with GSD as there are no allowance given for auto/machine operating
time
-STW machine time

- GSD Machine time

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5. The RPM (Rotations per minute) as mentioned in the STW did not match with the
RPM mentioned in GSD

- STW mentioned RPM

- GSD mentioned RPM


PHASE 4:
After analysing many more such points new standard worksheets were prepared
keeping in mind all the errors that occurred previously and made sure that they aren’t
repeated.
In case standard worksheets were not available for particular style and some
similar style’s standard worksheets were used, completely new standard worksheets
were prepared merely on the basis of GSD and physical analysis of operations in the
module.

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With the understanding of GSD and using analytical skills we worked upon in total
12 styles out of which 4 styles didn’t had STW’s and 1 style had STW of a similar style.
So, basically 3 types of situations have been handled during this project:
1. Styles having existing STWs.
2. Styles without STWs.
3. Styles with STW of a similar style.

An example of each situation is given below:
1. Styles with existing Standard Worksheets

Style No. – 41184
Buyer- Victoria’s Secret
Division – Logo
Style description- String Bikini
Garment smv= 2.468
Operational Breakdown
1. Conceal back gusset
2. Tack gusset to body
3. Stitch on gusset top
4. Attach leg elastic + close gusset
5. Attach waist elastic
6. Lace Join and Bar Tack
7. Label attach – with mark
8. Bow attach

In this particular style according to GSD there were 10 operations but in the
module there were only 8. This was due to the fact that they were doing 4 different
operations mentioned in GSD as a single operation. As per GSD operational breakdown
is:
1. Conceal back gusset
2. Tack gusset to body
3. Stitch on gusset top
4. Attach leg elastic + close gusset
5. Attach waist elastic

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6. Trim waist elastic
7. Join waist SNLS
8. Tack waist top- single – BT
9. Label attach- with mark
10. Bow attach
Operations of – Trim waist elastic, Join waist SNLS and Tack waist top – can be
easily worked upon a single machine- Bar Tack programmable machine as the stitch type
for both the stitching operation is the same- 301. So joining of waist elastic and BT on
waist top can be done simultaneously in same machine therefore, in the standard
worksheet these 3 operations were merged into 1 single operation. To calculate the time
factor for this situation out of three individual pick times, pick time for one operation was
taken. For RPM, the RPM mentioned for Bar tack operation was considered as the
machine used was Bar Tack machine.
Due to the merge of 3 operations into 1 operation the time required decreased and
hence the total smv decreased which is obviously beneficial both for operators and the
industry.
smv as mentioned in GSD for the complete style was- 2.775
So, the total time saved in minutes is – 0.307 minutes
The complete Standard Worksheets both old and new for this particular style are
given below along with GSD so as to make out what all changes have been made and on
what grounds.

0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
Conceal
Back Gusset
Gusset TackGusset Top
Stitch
Leg Elastic
Attach
Waist
Elastic
Lace BTLabel AttachBow Attach
Difference in SMV of each operation
Old STW TimeNew STW Time

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2. Styles without existing STWs

Style num.- 15859
Buyer- Victoria’s Secret
Division- Pink
Description- Thong
Garment smv- 3.1284

Operational Breakdown
1. Join front, back and gusset
2. Join 1
st
side seam
3. Attach waist elastic
4. Join 2
nd
side seam
5. Sew hem on leg
6. Trim excess
7. Attach interior label
8. Secure waist- BT
9. Iron
For this particular style no standard worksheets were made. We physically visited
the module and each and every operation was analysed thoroughly so as to see what
conditions and machinery are available for operators to work and also to know the existing
working procedure.
After analysing new standard worksheets were prepared on working conditions
and comparing them with the available GSD.
3. Styles with STWs of similar styles
There were styles for which new standard worksheets were not prepared and existing
worksheets of some similar style or styles (with similar operations) were used. As the
standard worksheets were not of the particular style, obviously the time factor was
incorrect. So to improve this was almost like preparing new Standard worksheets only on
the basis of observation in module and GSD as done in situation 2.
Style num.- 43723
Buyer- Victoria’s Secret
Division- Logo
Description- Basic
Garment smv- 2.809

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Similar style- 15523

Operational Breakdown:
1. Join front, back and gusset- Flatseam
2. 1
st
side seam
3. Waist elastic attach
4. 2
nd
side seam
5. Hem on legs
6. Trim excess
7. Label attach
8. BT on waist


Same process was followed for 9 more styles depending on the situation and
availability of STWs.
The difference between the garments smv’s of 8 styles for which standard
worksheets were available before new were created as per the GSD are shown in the
graph below:
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
Join Front,
back
&Gusset
1st side seamWaist elastic
attach
2nd side
seam
Hem on legTrim excessLabel attachBT on waist
Difference in SMV of each operation
Old STW timeNew STW time

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During this complete process there were some procedures that were processed in
a way that was incorrect or against the rules of lean manufacturing.
Some major changes made are as follows:
1. Style no- 15859
Operation- Label attach
Error- according to GSD the label should be attached with marking by forming
crease marks. But this procedure wasn’t followed practically. Due to this few
errors in label attaching were occurring.
Limitation- the fabric composition was such that formation of a crease mark
wasn’t possible.
Change- instead of forming crease mark, when the garment is placed on the
bar tack machine to attach label then both the side seams of the garment
should be matched under the machine bed. This would give the exact centre
point on the back waist and the label could be attached without any deviation.
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
3.5
4
4.5
16044 16074 16250 41184 21515 20692 16443 43723
Difference in smv-before and after using GSD
Old smvNew smv

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2. Style no- 16074
Operation- Leg top stitch
Error- in this operation the operators were stitching 3 pcs in a flow and then
passing onto the next operator. This often led to the idle time of the next
operator. Also this procedure is against lean as one-piece flow is a part of
lean.
Limitation- the style is a thong style so turning the garment to sew on other
leg after completing one side is a little difficult and if it is done there will be loss
of elastic.
Change- instead of stitching 3 pieces together and keeping the next operator
idle the operator could stitch the one leg and then feed in another garment.
After completing one leg of the second garment she can easily turn the garment
and stitch the other leg of the first garment after completing the second leg she
can feed the second leg of the second garment and the dechain the 1
st
garment
and pass it to the next operator. After completing second leg of the second
Old Procedure- attaching
label without any
marking
New Procedure-
attaching label with
matching Side seams
under machine bed

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garment she can feed on the third garment and continue the same process.
This will end the idle time of next operator and lean can also be followed.




3. Style no- 16223
Operation- Leg Lace attach
Error- in this procedure the operator was not passing on the garment even
after completing the piece. She was completing two garments in continuation
Old Procedure-
stitching 3 pcs
together in a flow

New Procedure- De-
chaining one piece
after completing and
then carrying on with
the next piece.

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and then passing it to next operator. This was resulting in next operator’s
waiting time.
*There was no limitation in this case. It was a case of discipline and
understanding of the procedure and Lean Rules about which the operator was
not clear.
Change- the operator was asked to change her working procedure and pass
on the garment soon after its completion.



Old Procedure- De-
chaining one piece
after completing 2
pieces in a flow.
New Procedure- De-
chaining one piece
after completing and
then carrying on with
the next piece.

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4. Style no- 42723
Operation- 1
st
side seam
Error- similar to previous one there was a discipline error as the operator was
not passing on the piece to the next operator even after the completion of one
piece. She was passing on 2 pieces at a time. This increased the WIP of the
next operator as the next operation was a critical operation.
Change- the operator was asked to change her working procedure and pass
on the garment soon after its completion.


Old Procedure-
disposing off 2 pieces
together instead of 1
New Procedure-
Disposing one piece
after completing and
then picking up the
next piece.

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5. Style no- 43723
Module no- 33
Error- The layout of the module was such that there was a lot of transportation
problem and fatigue was more as the operator had to do extra motion to pass
the garment to next operator.
Change- the layout was changed according and the existing problems were
overcome with the help of I.E. head.



OLD Layout
l

IMPROVED Layout

PHASE 5:

DIGITALIZATION
For each and every style digitalization was done by uploading the complete details
of the style- all the Standard Worksheets along with garment view, operational view and
the video for each operation the video portal of the official website of Brandix Apparel
India- Unit I.

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This digitalization is useful both in long term and short term. It will be like a future
reference for training programs. It will make it easier for trainers to train operators
according to the standards as all the worksheets with timeline and videos will be available.
The complete flow of uploading styles on the video portal is as follows:
1. Visit the main page of website- SHOP FLOOR CONTRO L SYSTEM


2. Select the option of workplace to view areas and streams related to the sewing
floor

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3. Go to Workstudy option in workplace and select “SOP VIDEO PORTAL- VIDEO
PORTAL”


4. Now fill in the details about the style no. Buyer Division , module no, and the name
of the operator.

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5. After updating all the details the video will be uploaded on the video portal and
then it can be viewed whenever necessary and needed.


CONCLUSION

This project was a great learning experience as it helped us to have a practical
experience of our theoretical knowledge about or subject related to Standardization of
sewing operations and work procedures.
For this project we underwent 12 different styles hence it was very useful as we
faced various different situations and learnt how to tackle them.
This project was also very useful for the industry also as they have a database of
styles which they can use whenever the need for such arises. The digitalization of all the
styles worked upon made the work procedures standard all over. They can be used to
refer if same styles are repeated or if new operators are to be trained.

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CONTENTS


S. NO. TITLE PAGE NO.
1. Introduction 175
2. Objective 176
3. Significance of Project 176
4. Existing Scenario 176
5. Problems 187
6. Suggestions 188
7. Present Result 188
8. Proposed Software System 188
9. Working of Software 191
10. Possible Results 191

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1 Introduction
Speed Orders are special type of orders dealt by the industry. These are orders with 10-15 days
lead time depending on the Garment (whether lace or elastic or both).
Speed orders are placed by Victoria’s Secret solely based on the customer demand. There are
no fixed arrival of these orders. So it is crucial for the company to keep pace with the sudden
order received but to maintain a good relation with the buyer they need to tackle with all the
hurdles and meet the customer’s demands.
Order quantity for speed orders ranges from 5000 pieces to 50000 pieces
Speed orders are never of a style that is new to the industry i.e. all the orders are of repeated
styles. This is because if a new style is received as an order with such a short lead time then the
order cannot be completed. Also these styles are just the basic styles that are like the general
necessary item that a shop should hold.
These orders are received on Mondays. According to the style the lead time is fixed i.e. if the style
is elastic then lead time is of 10 days and in case of lace styles lead time is of 15 days.
Purchase orders (POs) for raw materials are raised on Tuesday. If it is an elastic style all the
inventories should come latest by Thursday but if it is a lace style then inventories should be
received latest by next Monday. This is because for lace styles the laces are to be received from
Sri Lanka which requires at least one week’s time.
After the inventories are received the preparation for Production begins. All the other necessary
planning is done during the time inventories are being received like the patterns are ready, the
module in which production will start are selected based upon style.
There are 13 non-lean modules in the floor which are allocated to run only speed orders. These
13 modules are spread across all the 4 sections. Each module has a fixed number of 16 operators
working in.
13 Speed Modules are: 2, 3, 6, 19, 28, 31, 44, 45, 47, 54, 57, 61, 64
1.2.1 Styles for Speed Orders
Buyer- VS Logo




Elastic & Lace Elastic Lace
21507 20687 43723
21508 20692 6002
21515 20693 25987
24526 20694 1519
41184 20696 6004
41186 21461
21065 20695
52811 21516
41183
55143
55145
55146

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Only repeated styles are received in speed orders and no Pre-production meetings are held.
Orders are handled directly by the planner. He decides which module will run the order out of the
13 modules.

2. Objective of the Project:
To increase the efficiency of speed modules on the Production start date to 60-70% from an
average of 50% and avoid On Time Delivery (OTD) failures and also to be well prepared for worst
conditions.
3. Significance of the Project:
1. Our theoretical knowledge about efficiency and its factors will get a practical exposure.
2. An increase in efficiency on the first day of production (PSD) will reduce risk of OTD
failures and provide better quality.
3. Quality products and on time deliveries will help the industry to maintain good relations
with the buyers.
4. Existing Scenario
In the present scenario speed orders are planned and dealt by the internal planner who plans
according to Production start date in excel sheets. Modules are allocated based on their
vacancies/availability. Operators are unsure about which style will they have to work upon next.
Sometimes unskilled operators are made to operate a particular operation due to lack of
communication between planning team and Modules and also because of unavailability of module
that can handle that style.
So as a result the desired efficiency of 70% is not met on the day of production start due to slow
learning curve and lack of training.
Also all the 13 modules are not ready for such worst conditions where if any particular style (out
of the style matrix) has to run in all the 13 speed modules the modules are not prepared, due to
lack of skilled operators for those many operations.
4.1 Problem areas
 Not achieving 70% target on 1
st
day of production resulting in OTD failures
 In case of worst condition the 13 speed modules are not sufficiently skilled
 Lack of communication between planning team and module personnel
 Sometimes bulk modules have to stop production to run speed orders
 No standard m/c layout for the fixed styles

4..2 The need for a new system for handling speed orders
Based on the studies and observing at module level, a software system was proposed
which will entirely handle the module allocation of a new order and also will allocate operators in
the modules where all operators will be multi-skilled in such a way that there will be no shortage
of skill for any operations out of the pre-identified styles.

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4.3 Pre requisites for the system
Skill Updation
Since the modules are fixed for running speed orders and also the operators are fixed for
those modules we need a sufficient skill matrix that will fulfil the skill required for all the IU styles.
For a perfect Scenario we have taken operators with 75% and 100% skill level only.
Going through the present skill matrix there is a clear skill gap based on the study.
Analysing the 25 style details and the operations involved, an assumption is made on the required
number of skills if any one style is running in all the 13 modules. Maximum number of that
operation. This is then compared with the present skill and the data is collected and noted:

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TEAM B TEAM A

Operation Assumed Actual Gap Assumed Actual Gap
BT
BT label 13 4 -9 13 6 -7
BT Leg waist 26 35 9 26 49 23
F/L
Waist top stitch 13 1 -12 13 1 -12
Leg top stitch 13 0 -13 13 2 -11
Flat
seam Flat seam 13 3 -10 13 2 -11
Heat
seal Heat seal 13 17 4 13 20 7
Hem
Hem leg 39 7 -32 39 6 -33
Hem waist 13 2 -11 13 5 -8
O/L
Gusset O/L 13 54 41 13 41 28
Close Bottom O/L 13 40 27 13 41 28
Close Bottom Clean finish 13 11 -2 13 7 -6
Join B Rise O/L 13 9 -4 13 6 -7
Join SS O/L 26 41 15 26 58 32
Join front seam O/L 13 3 -10 13 6 -7
Join princess seam O/L 13 0 -13 13 1 -12
Leg attach O/L 26 5 -21 26 1 -25
waist attach 26 3 -23 26 0 -26
RSC
Leg attach RSC 26 31 5 26 33 7
Waist attach RSC 26 26 0 26 34 8
Leg top stitch 13 1 -12 13 5 -8
Waist top stitch 13 1 -12 13 1 -12
Tack
Gusset tack 13 11 -2 13 9 -4
Waist tack 13 4 -9 13 8 -5
Side seam tack 13 0 -13 13 2 -11
SNLS
Gusset attach 13 0 -13 13 1 -12
Label attach snls 13 9 -4 13 14 1
ZZ
leg attach ZZ 13 6 -7 13 4 -9
Waist Attach ZZ 13 6 -7 13 12 -1
Leg top stitch 13 2 -11 13 2 -11
Waist top stitch 13 5 -8 13 7 -6
Gusset attach ZZ 13 10 -3 13 12 -1
Total 507 347 -160 507 396 -111

*Skill gap based on comparison between Assumed & actual skill

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Team A

TEAM B
Calculation:
Since the number of operators working in a module are limited to 16,
Therefore, total operators required in one shift for Speed modules is :
16*13= 208
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
BT label
BT Leg waist
Waist top stitch
Leg top stitch
Flat seam Heat seal
Hem leg
Hem waist Gusset O/L
Close Bottom O/L
Close Bottom Clean finish
Join B Rise O/L
Join SS O/L
Join front seam O/L
Join princess seam O/L
Leg attach O/L
waist attach
Leg attach RSC
Waist attach RSC
Leg top stitch
Waist top stitch
Gusset tack
Waist tack
Side seam tack
Gusset attach
Label attach snls
leg attach ZZ
Waist Attach ZZ
Leg top stitch
Waist top stitch
Gusset attach ZZ
Assumed
Actual
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
BT label
BT Leg waist
Waist top stitch
Leg top stitch
Flat seam Heat seal
Hem leg
Hem waist Gusset O/L
Close Bottom O/L
Close Bottom Clean finish
Join B Rise O/L
Join SS O/L
Join front seam O/L
Join princess seam O/L
Leg attach O/L
waist attach
Leg attach RSC
Waist attach RSC
Leg top stitch
Waist top stitch
Gusset tack
Waist tack
Side seam tack
Gusset attach
Label attach snls
leg attach ZZ
Waist Attach ZZ
Leg top stitch
Waist top stitch
Gusset attach ZZ
Assumed
Actual

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As per our study we assumed total number of skills(75% and above ) required for
satisfying the 13 modules is 507
Therefore we can calculate the skills required per operator to run the entire set of modules
as :
Skills required per operator = (Total assumed skills / Total no. of operators in one shift )
= 507/208
= 2.44
So, as an average we can take the skill required per operator to be 3. Which means each
operator in those 13 modules should know a minimum of 3 operations. These way Speed
modules will never be devoid of skilled operators.

Who should be trained in what?
From the above data:
Only skills are taken into account and no operators are taken into account
 Operators with multi skill cannot be identified
 Operators with 50% skill whose skill should be updated cannot be identified
 Information on which operator to be trained for how many operations and on which
operations are not clear
Therefore there is a need for another skill matrix from where we can find out which operator is
less skilled and which operator has to be trained for multi-skill.

Skill matrix prepared, showing skill level and number of skills of an operator for Team A
ID

Operator name

4 3 2 1
Total

355 T.Rajya Laxmi 2 2
861 K.Annapurna 1 3 4
863 R.Bhavani 2 2
13610 Lova laxmi 1 1 2
2010 Rajana Nagamani 1 1
2177 N.Varaha 1 1 2
2192 M. Rajeswari 2 1 3
2565 K.Nooka Ratnam 2 1 3
5956 S. Appalanarasa 2 1 3
6796
Mantri. Adi
Lakshmi 2 2 4
10561 Bonda Adi Lakshmi 2 2
13024 akkamma 1 3 4
15045 padma 2 4 6
15427 parvathi 1 2 3

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16743 satyavathi 1 1
17080 laxmi 1 1
8792 K. Parvathamma 2 2
9189 P. Venkata lakshmi 1 1
11683 komali 2 2
11895 dhanalakshmi 1 2 3
12167 ganga bhavani 1 1
12274 kalyani 5 5
12472 saroja 1 1
13387 sarojini 1 1
1350 K.Manemma 1 1
14675 manikumari 1 1
15168 swathi 1 1
15388 padmavathi 1 1 2
16580 neeli veni 1 2 3
16581 lovatalli 1 1
16878 durga 1 2 3
14325 Pathima 2 2
120 krishna kumari 1 1
702 E.Appala Narasa 1 1 2
3937 Y.Satyavathi 1 2 3
5512 Gorle. Laxmi 1 2 3
6836 Pedapudi. Sarojini 1 5 6
6978 Pattimi. Lakshmi 2 2 4
8225 Turri Vara Lakshmi 1 2 3
8289 Mutta Satyavathi 1 1 2
8291 Boja Sridevi 1 3 4
8298
Pasagodugula
Sarojini 1 1
8346 Kotana Naga Laxmi 1 1
9962 Baddi Vara Laxmi 1 1
10742 K. Venkata Laxmi 1 1
11322 Boddapu Satishvari 1 1
13010 chinammalu 1 1
17271 revathikumari 1 1
2875 kala 1 1
2876 Vara laxmi 1 1
6746 Venkati laxmi 1 1
7597 Vara laxmi 3 3
8588 Manga 1 1

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8803 varalaxmi 1 1
8989 Bhavani 0
9045 laxmi 1 1
10191 Bhavani 1 1
12104 naga laxmi 1 1
12309 devi 2 2
13397 jayamma 1 1
14663 Naga laxmi 1 1
15888 Ravanamma 1 1
17183 Madhavi 1 1 2
2901 kantham 1 1 2
7013 madhavi 1 1
7799 vijaya laxmi 2 2
9927 maheswari 2 2 4
12224 karuna 8 3 11
15176 jayalaxmi 1 2 3
12842 devi 1 1 2
14850 padma 1 1
15461 lakshmi 2 2
17149 maheswari 1 1
17188 kondamma 3 3
15863 nookarathnam 1 1
16924 varalakshmi 1 1
16584 maheswari 1 1
8415 kumari 0
17100 ravanamma 1 1
2105 Vara laxmi 1 1
5518 Venkata laxmi 1 1
10870 ranaggamma 1 1
10909 Swapana 2 2
11675 laxmi 2 2
12186 laxmi 1 1
12292 vara laxmi 1 1
12703 laxmi 1 1
15452 Devi 1 1
15453 Naga 1 1
15454 Naga mani 1 1
15986 nookaratnam 1 1
16502 naga laxmi 1 1

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17236 vankatilaxmi 1 1
17318 parvathi 2 2
6288 Nagasanthoshi 3 3
8470 Parvathi 1 1
8689 Pydithalli 1 1
9295 Bhavani 2 1 3
10346 Padma 3 3
10559 Laxmi 5 5
13478 Laxmi 2 2
14394 Nookaratnam 1 1
14453 Vani 2 2
15201 Chilukamma 2 2
15813 Adilaxmi 2 2
15913 Bharathi 4 4
16431 Laxmi 2 1 3
16577 Ramu 1 1 2
17040 Nagamani 1 1 2
16541 Parvathi 4 1 5
1436 Laxmi 3 3
2709 Ammaji 4 4
3288 Laxmi 2 2
6083 Laxmi 5 1 6
6964 Devi 4 4
6979 Nagamani 2 2
7348 Laxmi 1 1
8485 Laxmi 2 2
8594 Laxmi 3 3
9899 Sandhya 3 3
11922 Annapoorna 2 2
16330 Laxmi 2 2
10386 Uma 2 2
15140 Venkatalaxmi 2 2
8422 Padma 1 1
3467 Seetharatnam 1 2 3
10926 Ratnakumari 1 1
1729 Arunakumari 3 3
4615 Somaratnam 3 3
1646 Sanyasamma 1 1
5961 Laxmi 1 1

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9990 Kumari 2 2
17000 Nookalaxmi 2 2
8380 Lovalaxmi 1 1
1619 Pushpa 1 2 3
12097 Kalavathi 1 1
7110 Chinnari 2 2
16576 Dhanalaxmi 1 1
16564 Uma 1 1
17178 Adilaxmi 1 1
2272 Dwarapudi Sridevi 1 1
6338 Bobbari Ramalakshi 1 4 5
7434 Netti. Varalakshmi 2 2
16898 lakshmi 1 1
9438 Surya kumari 2 2
10172 Nelluru Pydi Rani 1 6 3 10
10524 Bharathi 2 1 3
13417 kasulamma 1 1
13681 manga 1 1 2
14225 rajeswari 2 2
14434 durga devi 4 4
16880 padma 1 1
16451 nagalaxmi 1 1
16455 rupa 1 1
16749 sarada 3 2 5
2577 E.Parvathi 1 1 1 3
3556 Pragada.Savithri 1 1
5662 savitri 2 2
11056 D.Lakshmi 2 2
11512 R. Chitti Lakshmi 1 1
12436 hyma 1 1
12495 sita 1 1
12568 sanjeevi 3 3
13223 satyavathi 1 1
13407 bhagyalakshmi 2 2
13852 chinni 1 2 3
13918 satyavathi 0
14115 chitti 1 2 3
15143 sandhya 1 1
16629 sandya 2 2

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15994 venkatalakshmi 1 1 1 3
2578 B.Anuradha 1 1
3740 Nanepalli.Sanjeevi 1 1
8580 Ravi. Satyavathi 1 1
14805 varalakshmi 3 3
10624 Uda Sailaja 2 2
11323
Ginne Uma
Maheswari 1 1
11507 Adigarla Laxmi 2 2
12570 kanakalakshmi 1 1
12581 rajee 2 2
13183 kalyani 1 2 3
14452 satyavathi 4 4
14674 muthyalamma 2 2
14696 laxmi 2 2
2299 Lakshmi 1 1 2
3346 Varalakshmi 4 4
4063 Subhasini 1 1 1 3
4625 Santhoshamma 1 1 1 3
6277 Lakshmi 3 3
6283 Mani 4 4
6303 Sri Devi 1 9 10
7070 Vijaya Kumari 1 2 3
7648 Lavanya 1 1 2
8602 Satoshi Jyothi 2 2
8762 Venamma 3 3
9110 Venu Lakshmi 4 4
9329 Lakshmi 2 2
17447 bangaram 1 1
10461 Bharathi 1 1
10501 Deviki 2 2
13419 nookaratnam 3 3
13971 bangaramma 1 2 3
15191 satyavathi 4 4

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Table 2 Skill gap of operator according to level of Team A

From this table we can identify the operators who are skilled in multiple operations.
We can also identify their skill level of those operations.
Here,
 4 indicates an operator who can do the job without supervisor and can teach other
 3 indicates an operator who can do the job within time without the help of supervisor
 2indicates an operator who can do the job within time with the help of supervisor
 1 indicates an operator who cannot complete the job within time

Training method
Now we know which operators to be trained on how many number of skills and on which
operations we have define a training method for the existing operators who are less skilled

More importance should be given to critical operations like Hem leg, Hem waist, Waist lace
attach, Waist elastic attach. Critical operations are identified based on their SMV.
Short term
 Operators from within the module can train each other. For example an operator with
100% skill level can teach an operator with lower skill level.
 Also operators shall be shuffled within the module who knows similar operations to keep
them multi skilled.
Long term
For long term training of operators to be multi skilled a system proposed was exchange of
operators from training center and module.
For example, a new operator in training center who knows a critical operation shall be sent to the
module and at the same time an operator from the module knowing non critical operation like over
lock/bar tack etc should be sent to the training center to train her for a critical operation until she
reach 75%. This way we can update the skill level of each operator to our requirement.
Also while recruiting new operators for speed modules they should be given training strictly on 3
operations.


Layout
A study was done in module 2 of section 1 where it was found that improper machine layout is
being followed resulting in non-uniform flow of piece.
Operator in training
center knowing
critical operations
Experianced
operator in module
knowing non-
critical operation

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There is no standard machine layout for each style being followed for the speed modules.


Fig. 1: Existing Machine layout in Module 2

5. Problems:
Transportation was more in this case from Leg elastic to Side seam attach
Reverse flow of material from waist attach to side seam leading to confusion.
While interviewing the supervisor and also by checking the Production review sheet it was
found that the Hourly production was 800-900 pcs
Also lot of excess WIP was observed in the line

Fig 2. WIP

















Out
put
QC

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6. Suggestion:
For a smooth flow of material a machine layout was proposed:


Fig 3 Proposed machine layout for module 2




7. Results:
 Smoothened the material flow
 Both side input and output from the middle of the module
SMV = 2.5
Minutes worked = 60 min
No of operators = 16
Therefore, capacity = (16*60)/2.5 = 384 pcs/ hour
 Less transportation
 Less confusion
 More production with less WIP

Thus like this there will be standard layout of all the styles of speed order which will be stored in
a database.

8. Proposed Software System

After training all the operators for at least 3 different skill or making all 208 speed module
operators Multi-skilled, we have to make a database of the operators based on their skills or
we can use the existing skill matrix.
Considering the above facts now we have:
 A database of all the 208 operators working in speed modules who have been trained
in multi skill as per our requirements










QC

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 A database of fixed machine layouts per style
 Analyzing all the styles a standard m/c layout can be prepared for all the different styles
 For the present scenario each module can be allocated with a maximum of 2 styles that
are similar to each other on the basis of its operation breakdown and machine requirement









DATABASE 1
•Style, layout(accto style and module),
Supervisor details
Order Recieved
Module allocation as per the
database
After module allocation a
new window will open with
module layout details
Generate reports-final
layout, allocated operators
along with operation and skill
Upload on bainnet
Fig Flowchart
While an order comes that style number should be entered in the system
System will search in style matrix database and pick the predefined layout for that style
From there we can allocate the module

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Enter Style No.
Available modules:
Style No.
Allocated module:

Layout:
NAME(EP
F NO)
SKILL
Operation
Name
NAME(E
PF NO)
SKILL
Operatio
n Name
NAME(EP
F NO)
SKILL
Operation
Name
NAME(EP
F NO)
SKILL
Operation
Name
NAME(EP
F NO)
SKILL
Operation
Name
NAME(EP
F NO)
SKILL
Operation
Name
NAME(EP
F NO)
SKILL
Operation
Name
NAME(EP
F NO)
SKILL
Operation
Name
NAME(EP
F NO)
SKILL
Operation
Name
NAME(E
PF NO)
SKILL
Operatio
n Name
NAME(EP
F NO)
SKILL
Operation
Name
NAME(EP
F NO)
SKILL
Operation
Name
NAME(EP
F NO)
SKILL
Operation
Name
NAME(EP
F NO)
SKILL
Operation
Name
NAME(EP
F NO)
SKILL
Operation
Name
NAME(EP
F NO)
SKILL
Operation
Name
SKILL MATRIX DATABASE

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9. Working of the Software:

1. A complete database of all the styles will be made that will include the no. of operations in
that particular style along with the no. of operators required for each operation and an
already prepared feasible layout.
2. As soon as a style comes for order the person handling the software shall enter the style
number in the area given.
3. After the person enters the style no. a new window will open that will show all the available
modules for that particular style. The person will now need to select the module.
4. After the module gets allocated a new window will open that will have the complete layout
for that module as in the database. The layout will have all the details about the machinery
operations for each machinery and the name and EPF no. of the operator currently
allocated for that module and that particular machinery. There will be a dropdown next to
details on each machine box that will allow the person to change the operator in case it is
needed.
5. In a case where the particular module that can be allocated for a particular style is
unavailable then module that is used for a similar style shall be available for allocation.
6. In this case along with the operator the machine layout can also be altered. Yet this will
be helpful as minimum changes have to be made in the module in such a case.

10. Possible Results:
 Increase in efficiency as all the operators will have maximum efficiency and multi
skilled.
 Allocation of modules and operators will no more be an issue.
 Targets met without any rejections or OTD failures
 Long term solutions that will act as a preventive cover for any problem to occur
and affect.
 Short term solutions that will help the work to go on smoothly till the time the long
term solutions are fully prepared to be implemented.

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CONTENTS


S. NO. TITLE PAGE NO.
1. Introduction 194
2. Objective 194
3. Requirements 194
4. Present Scenario 194
5. Present Transportation Layout 195
6. Proposed Transportation Layout 198
7. Proposed Standard Worksheet 199
8. Possible Results 200

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1. INTRODUCTION
Uniflow Project is also related to material flow project but slightly different. In Material
flow we reduce the time of some particular process and eliminate unnecessary process.
There was separate worker for each process and transportation, for one section
(16modules). But in Uniflow we are focusing to merge all the material transportation
done by only one person for one block or less as per findings.

2. OBJETIVE
To unified the man power involved for material transportation and to allocate one person
to a particular block or modules as per findings.

3. REQUIREMENTS :
 Floor Layout
 Material flow Map
 Time and Distance
 Manpower
 Transportation Flow

4. PRESENT SCENARIO :
Presently there are 6 workers who are issuing and transporting fabric, trims, finish
goods etc. from one place to another place, only for one section. In total 24 workers for
all plant.
Since the present culture is section wise distribution, that should be change because
one person cannot handle one section properly.
Transportation Type and Manpower for one section:
RM to Production Module: 4 Members
With In Production Module: 4 Members
Production Module to FG/Surplus: 2 Members

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5. PRESENT TRANSPORTA TION LAYOUT:
5.1 RM Warehouse to Production Module:

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5.2 Within Production Module:

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5.3 Production Module to FG/Surplus:

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6. PROPOSED TRANSPORTAION LAYOUT:

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7. PROPOSED STANDARD WORKSHEET:

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8. POSSIBLE RESULTS:

Since we are already allotted one person as Water Spider for 4 module in our previous
project, we are leaving that transportation part and Return Area to Reverse logistic
transportation responsibility of RM warehouse and other authority, so we also not
including that in this.
As per present scenario the total cycle time for one module by all workers are:

Module 60:
Fabric Unloading/Issue= 15 mins
Sewing Trims = 32 mins
Sewing Labels= 11 mins
Packing Trims= 23 mins
Finish Goods= 19 mins
Surplus = 15 mins
Total Cycle Time = 115 mins

But if we follow the new proposed layout, as per standard worksheet:
Module 60:
Fabric Unloading/Issue= 10 mins
Trims= 41 mins
Finish Goods= 6 mins
Surplus = 15 mins
Total Cycle Time = 72 mins

Differences between Old and New process:
115-72 = 43 mins
That means we can save 43 mins per module if we follow the new Uniflow process
This is approx. half of the previous cycle time for one cycle. Also if we see practically
one person is working against 6 persons in less time.

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CONTENTS


S. NO. TITLE PAGE NO.
1. Digitalised and Improved VSM 203
2. Standardaised Production Control Board 204
3. Standardaised SQDCM Board 204
4. Preparation of One Piece Flow Card System 205

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EXTRA ACTIVITIES
1. Digitalised and Improved VSM Future and Current State
The value stream map which was there in industry was made using sticky notes stuck
on a big sheet of paper. It went dirty as well as the notes started coming out of it. So,
the industry wanted us to digitalise the value stream map of future and current state.
We started working on it and made the entire value stream map in Microsoft Excel and
then got it printed on flex banner.

Before Digitalisation



After Digitalisation

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2. Standard Production Control Board
There was not any standard place for placing different documents like downtime data
card, yamazumi chart, operator’s attendance list etc. In every module lean leader
placed it at different places. Since, the factory was implementing lean this was a
violation of 5S.
We made standard place for every card and put sticker on board so that things should
not get mixed up.
Before After

No fixed place for cards and charts Standard place for every card and chart


3. Standard SQDCM Board
SQDCM board was a new implementation in the factory for identifying the types of
waste produced in the modules. The authorised person has to fill the charts and keep it
there. The place for keeping the charts was not defined. So, we defined the places for
each chart on the board which made the work fast and easy also the identification of
wastes became fast.

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Before After
4. Preparation of One Piece Flow Card System
One piece flow card was implemented by us to monitor the one piece flow system.
Benefits:-
 One piece flow can be tracked
 Pieces can be tracked(in case the card went to the line but didn’t get back to
checking table)
 Time study can be done easily(total time to get card back)










Preparation of
downtime
data card

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We prepared a downtime data card for monitoring the reason why the planned output
was not met. All the reasons were covered under 5M i.e.
 Method
 Material
 Machine
 Man
 Measurement
Codes were given for each reason in order to save time while writing reason for less
output on production control board as well as to maintain uniformity throughout the
factory.

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ANNEXURE II

ANNEXURE III

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ANNEXURE IV

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ANNEXURE V

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ANNEXURE VI

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APPENDIX VII
Apparel CAD Evaluation format

Section a
QUESTIONNARE

SEGMENT – I (ORGANIZATION)

i. Which Cad system is being used in your organization?

 Gerber Accumark

ii. When was the CAD system being implemented in your organization?
 Before 5 years
 3-5 years
 1-3 years
 less than 1 year

iii. How many times has the organization upgraded the CAD software or installed / changed to a new
one?
 Once
 Two - five times
 Almost every year
 Whenever required

SEGMENT – II (PURPOSE)

i. Is CAD easier than traditional methods?
(a) User’s point of view:Yes
(b) Your point of view: Yes it is much easier to use as it defines the efficiency while plotting the
patterns on the marker.

ii. For what purpose/s is the CAD system being used? (Can be more than one)
 Only for pattern making
 For digitizing the patterns provided by buyer’s
 Marker planning
 Alterations in patterns
 Grading
 Other’s ; All of the above

iii. Does CAD result in greater productivity, is it more lucrative?
(a) Yes
(b) If no,
why?______________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________

SEGMENT – III (GENERAL)

i. Do you feel that CAD is affordable?

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 Yes
 No
 Cant say

ii. Are traditional skills required to work on CAD?

Please Comment: Yes definitely


iii. Are experienced pattern makers (who manually developed patterns and markers) easily accepting the
extensive use of CAD / CAM?
 Yes
 No
 Sometimes

iv. Is the combination of an individual readily available who is an expert in CAD / CAM and pattern
making?
 Yes, always
 No, sometimes
 Rarely

SEGMENT- IV (TRAINING)

i. Was any training imparted to the operator when the new soft-ware was installed?
 Yes
 No
 If yes, then for how many days?
- Less than 7 days
- 7-15 days
- More than 15 days
ii. Are you satisfied with the training given?
 Yes
 No
 If no, please specify the reason?
- Training should be of longer duration
- Language problem
- Any other __________________________

iii. Do you think that training is only required when a new software is installed or do you recommend an
in-house training otherwise as-well?
 Training every year or 6-months
 Only when a software is installed

iv. Do you think that the person working on CAD / CAM should be well versed in Pattern and Marker
development or should he have fair knowledge about textile and styling as-well?

Please Comment: Yes


SEGMENT – V (PEOPLE INVOLVED)

i. How many people are working in the pattern development and marker making department?

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Please specify, (approx.) -5
ii. Has the number changed (increased / decreased) with the usage of CAD?
 Reduced
 Are the same
 Can’t say
iii. What is the age of person working on CAD?
 20-25 yrs.
 25-35 yrs
 Above 35 yrs.
iv. Does he have any prior work experience on CAD?
 Yes
 No
 If yes, then how many years?
- 1 yr.
- 1-2 yrs
- More than 2 yrs.

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Section B

The following factors have been identified to have an influence on adoption of
CAD / CAM.
(Kindly select the most appropriate option)


Factors influencing
adoption of IT
Strongly
positive
Moderately
positive
Indifferent Moderately
negative
Strongly
negative
Can’t
say
High Price


Reduces dependence on
people


Failed installation in other
organization


Collaborative working
between various employees,
supplier and buyer is easier


Ability of supplier to train
the users in our organization


Saves fabric


The supplier does not have
an office in the location
where my organization is
situated


Improves first pass quality
product


Reduces throughput time for
product assemble


Requirement of constant
training


Ready availability of literate
professionals


Constant up gradation of
system required


Others please specify---------
--

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Section C


This sheet will help you decide which system is best for your pattern
development department and organization. (Even if you have one. )
Note: Simple instructions to fill in the form.
 Mention the various CAD / CAM systems you are aware of in (*) columns
 In the row below, mention how each of these systems came to your knowledge, whether through
your institute, buyer’s, pattern maker, the respective company, fairs and exhibitions or some
journals etc.
 Mention the CAD system under the evaluating points of 1-7.evaluate by giving score of 1-7
where 1 stands for best and 7 for the least.
 Same number maybe given for more than one company if the features are felt to be the same. The
company scoring the minimum score as per your requirements should be your choice for buying
the CAD system.
 In the last column, kindly mention the basis of your evaluating criteria. For ex., if you have give 1
to a particular system and 3 to the other, kindly mention who / why you made the decision.

Criteria Lectra Accumark * * * * Source
How you found out
about them
Institute Brandix
Communications-
digitizers and file import
8 9
Piece geometry
identifications(points,
lines, notches,
orientations lines, piece
rotation line for marker
making)
7 9
Pattern design functions-
measurement
capabilities
6 8
Pattern design functions-
darts, pleats, trace, cut,
combine, shrink, stretch,
flip, and rotate patterns.
5

6
Pattern design functions-
seam allowance
definition, corners,
corner insert
6 5
Removing and adding of
patterns from present
files, printing and redo
and undo functions &
keyboard and mouse hot
keys- shortcut keys
5 5
Pattern grading functions 6 7
Maker making functions 5 4
Automatic marker
making functions
6

10

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Software platforms 7 7
Outputs and
consumables availability
7 9
Manuals 6 7
Communications access
with respect internet
compatibility
6 4
Warranty and after sales
service
5 8
CAM and CAS interface 5 4
Customizing features 6 6
Cost implications 5 9
Interface capabilities
with other design
software
6 8
Plotting facility 7 2
TOTAL
102

111


Any remarks: Accumark is basically popular in Sri lankan garment manufacturing units. They prefer it
over any other CAD
software._____________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________

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Section D

Analyzing the usage of various functions in the CAD / CAM systems.

Note: Kindly tick mark in the relevant column and pen down any remark / comment related to the point
in the last column.

S.No. Criteria Always Sometimes/
Occasionally
Rarely Never Additional
Comment
1. Digitization 
2. On screen pattern
construction

3. Notches option 
4. Dart manipulation 

5. Grading tools 
6. Size
correspondence


7. Specification sheet
development

8. Piece assembly 
9. Variant tools 
10. Marker planning 

11. Plotting 

12. Piece rotation 

13. Measurement
capabilities

14. Pattern Design
functions- Darts,
pleats, trace, cut,
combine, shrink,
stretch, flip, Rotate
pattern.

15. Removing and
adding patterns

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Section E
Technical specifications
Note: Simple instructions to fill in the form.
 Mention the various CAD / CAM systems you are aware of in (*) columns
 Mention the CAD system under the evaluating points of 1-7, evaluate by giving score of 1-7
where 1 stands for simplest and 7 for the complicated.
 Then compare the following system on the basis of the criteria mentioned with respect to the
manual pattern making methods also (Mention the rating in the appropriate column.)
 If a particular facility is not available in manual pattern making / CAD, mention NIL.
 In the remarks column, kindly mention the basis of your evaluating criteria (If possible). For ex.,
if you have given 1 to a particular system and 3 to manual pattern development, kindly mention
why you made the decision.



Criteria Lectra Manual
Pattern
Making
Accumark Manual
Pattern
Making
Remarks
Communications-
digitizers and file import
5 NIL 5
Pattern design functions-
measurement capabilities
7 NIL 9
Pattern design functions-
darts, pleats, trace, cut,
combine, shrink, stretch,
flip and rotate patterns.
5 6 9
Pattern design functions-
seam allowance
definition, corners, corner
insert
6 7 9
Removing and adding of
patterns from present
files, printing and redo
and undo functions &
keyboard and mouse hot
keys- shortcut keys /
Pattern alterations
5 6 8
Pattern grading functions 6 NIL 10
Changes in Maker plans 6 7 9
Automatic marker making
functions
5 NIL 6
Software platforms 6 NIL 8
Outputs and consumables
availability
7 NIL
7

Manuals / Books 7 NIL 3
Communications access
with respect internet
compatibility
6 7 4

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Warranty and after sales
service
6 NIL 8
CAM 5 NIL 0
Customizing features 5 NIL 8
Cost implications 6 7 7
Interface capabilities with
other design software
5 NIL 6
Plotting facility 6 NIL 8
Marker Planning Options
(Piece rotation, Ply and
edges, direction of pieces,
quantity of pieces and
piece adjustment
command, marker
efficiency, fabric width,
etc.)
7 7 7
TOTAL 111 123

Any remarks: Accumark is very different CAD system which is better than lectra. Accumark is not
widely used in India.

APPENDIX – VIII SOFTWARE EVALUATION
Section One - Overall Software Requirements

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Section 2 - Application Support for various functions in the Unit

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Section3 - Administration and Security

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Section 4 - Reports

Section 5 - Web Based Software

Section 6 - Vendor and Vendor Support

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Section 7 - Software and other Costs

Final Scores

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APPENDIX IX – PLANT LAYOUT

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BIBLOGRAPHY

http://www.brandixapparelcity.com/Content.aspx?id=2&Type=M&Page=2
http://www.brandixapparelcity.com/Content.aspx?id=1&Type=S&Page=3
http://www.brandixapparelcity.com/Content.aspx?id=3&Type=S&Page=3
http://www.brandix.com/brandix/index.php
http://www.brandix.com/brandix/achievements.php
http://www.brandix.com/brandix/values.php
http://www.brandix.com/brandix/the_board.php