Building Blocks of Hair Care Products.docx

COSMETIC SCIENCE 2ND UNIT

1. Building Blocks of Hair Care
Products

2. •A Shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant in a suitable
form – liquid,solid or powder which when used under the
specialized conditions will remove surface grease,dirt and
skin debris from the hair shaft and scalp without adversely
affecting the user.

3. Characteristics of Shampoo
•It should effectively and completely removed dust or soil, excessive sebum
or other fatty substances, loose corneal cells from the hair and other
residual substances of hair dressings or settings or other materials.
•It should effectively wash the hair.
•It should produce a good amount of foam to satisfy the psycological
requirements of the user.
•The shampoo should be easily removed by rinsing with water.
•It should leave the hair non dry, soft, lustrous, with good , managebility
and minimum of fly away.
•It should impart a pleasant fregrance to the hair.
•It should not make the hand rough and chapped.
•It should not have any side effects or causes irritation to skin or eye.

4. •The main problem of cleaning hair is removal of fat or
grease which needs a good detergent. Availability of a wide
range of synthetic detergents has led to flood of products in
the market. Detergent power or the removal of dirt
involves-
1.The ability of the detergent to wet both the dirt and the
substrate hair fibre.
2.Lowering of interfacial tension to such a level that
displacement of dirt or grease materials becomes easy.
3.Dispersion of dust particles for easy washing and removal.

5. •To select detergent for using in shampoos the
following factors should be considered.
1.Safety or non toxicity
2.Ease of distribution and lathering power
3.Luster imparted to hair
4.Ease of combing wet hair
5.Speed of drying
6.Ease of setting dry hair

6. Composition of Shampoos
•Surfactants are the main component of shampoo. Mainly anionic
substance are used cationic, non ionic and ampholytic surfactants have
also some used.
•The raw materials used in manufacture of shampoos are classified as:
1.Principal surfactants which provide detergency and foam.
2.Secondarysurfactantswhichimprovedetergency,foamandhair
condition.
3.Other additives which impart other characteristics to the shampoo
product.

7. •1. Principal surfactants:
•Anionic surfactants are mostly used as principal surfactants.
•They have very good foaming properties
•Non ionic surfactants have good cleansing activity but do not have
sufficient foaming power. So they are not much used.
•Though cationic surfactants have good foaming character as well
as some cleansing power but are not much used as they are toxic
and cause damage to they eye. But at non toxic low concentration
they are used in hair conditioners.
•Soaps are not preferred as their solutions are alkaline and make
hair dullin hard water they leave a deposite of calcium and
magnesium salts on the hair shaft. However they are cheap and
therefore used in low priced shampoo.

8. •Ampholytics are generally not as good as anionic also they are more expensive
so they are mainly used as secondary surfactants and as good hair conditioners.
•Alkyl sulphates:
•They are most widely used anionic detergents, particularly lauryl and Myristyl
sulphates.
•They are sulphated derivatives of long chain fatty acid, alcohols, C12 or above ,
obtained by catalytic reduction of fatty acids of coconut and palm kernel oils.
•Various salts of lauryl sulphates like soldium lauryl sulphate, triethanol lauryl
sulphate.
•As magnesium lauryl sulphate is less hygroscopic. It is preferably used in powder
shampoos.
•Sodium lauryl sulphate the most commonly used alkyl sulphate salt has poor
solubility in cold water but solubility increases with temperature and has good

9. solubility at normal temperature of 35-40 C.

10. •Alkyl polyethylene glycol sulphates:
•They are more water soluble than sodium lauryl sulphate and thus a
concentrated product can be made.
•They also have high foaming power.
•They can also act as solvents for non polar additives normally required to
be incorporated in shampoos.
•Other anionic surfactants occasionally used are sodium salt of alkyl
benzene sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, fatty acid soaps.
•As fatty acid soaps have problem with hard water due to presence of
calcium and magnesium, addition of sequestering agents like salts of EDTA
or polyphosphates is required for stabilization

11. •2) Secondary surfactants:
•These are added to produce more foam and to improve the condition of
the hair. They are mostly anionic or ampholytic detergents.
•There are several categories of detergents which are used only in
conjuction with other detergents mentioned under principal surfactants.
•These include dialkyl sulphosuccinates, monoalkyl sulphosucciantes,
methyl taurides, fatty acid alkanolamides, acyl amino acids, acyl peptides,
acyl sarcosins, monogyceride sulphates, turky red oil and secondary
alkylsulphates. Some of them are used specifically in particular type of
shampoos.

12. •Mehtyl taurides, amides of methyl taurine, are amphoteric, they
leave the hair in excelent condition because of the presence of the
amide group. Though their foaming power is not very good but they
are incorporated as hair conditioners.
•Fatty acid alkanolamides , particularly monoalkanolamides such as
monoethanolamides and isopropanolamides, are used along with
lauryl sulphate to increase the solubility of lauryl sulphate and thus
to increase lather.
•Acyl amino acids are in ampholytic class and example is acyl β-
aminopropionates where chain length of acid is of C
12
–C
14
for best
foaming activites.

13. •Acyl peptides are acyl polyamino acids produced by the reaction of acyl
chloride and hydrolyzed proteins. They have excellent hair conditioning power.
They are costly and have less foaming power.
•Acyl sarcosins contain a CON group and have good hair conditioning effects.
They are normally used along with alkyl sulphates or alkyl ether sulphates.
•Secondary alkyl sulphates were used earlier but are not much used nowadays.
They are good cleansers but have a strong characteristic odour and have effect
on hair.
•They also hydrolyze on storage. Occasionally , they are used along with alkyl
benzene sulphonates and alkyl sulphates.
•Monoglyceride sulphates, like sulphated monolaurin, are same as lauryl
sulphates and used in various commercial products.

14. •Turkey red oil form a light coating over hair and are preferably used
in oil shampoos. They have effective cleansing character but very
low foaming effect. The important turkey red oils are sulphonated
caster oil and sulphonated olive oil. Normally they are used in
combination.
•Alkyl phosphates are normally used in low foaming shampoos as
they have low foaming power. They also have milder effects on hair.
Some other anionic surfactants are also occasionally used in low
foaming shampoos, as they are good cleansers but not a good
foaming agent.

15. 3) Other additives:
•Severaladditivesareincorporatedinshampooproductstoachieve
specialized characters and other purposes. They can be classified as-
a)Germicides and anti dandruff agents
b)Conditioning agents
c)Pearlscent agents
d)Sequestrants
e)Thickening agents
f)Colours
g)Perfumes
h)preservatives

16. a)Germicides and anti dandruff agents:
•They are incorporated to prevent microbial infection of scalp and to
treat dandruff respectively.
•common germicides used in soap can be used in shampoo also.
•There are quaternary ammonium compounds such as benzalkonium
chloride, cetrimide etc: some phenol derivatives , tetramethyl
thiuram, disulphide etc
•Substances used as anti dandruff agents are selenium sulphide,
cadmium sulphide, zinc pyridinium thiol-N-oxide etc.

17. b)Conditioning agents:
•They are mainly fatty substances like lanolin, oils; natural products
like herbal exteracts, egg, amino acids, lecthin and polymeric
substances give a special conditioning effect to the hair.
•If amino acids are incorporated into shampoos, after washing amino
acid remains deposited on the hair and scalp and produce a good
conditioning effect on the hair. Also protein hydrolysates containing
amino acids are incorporated, for conditioning effect

18. d)Sequestrants:
•They form a water soluble complex with Ca++ and Mg++ and thus
prevent the formation of insoluble slats of soaps or detergents by
these two divalent ions present in water.
•Sometimes calcium-salt dispersing agents are incorporated to
disperse the salts formed by the divalents Ca++, Mg++ etc
•Sequestrants like sodium salt of EDTA are used to entrap the
interfering ions like Ca++ and Mg++ present in the water

19. e)Thickeming agents:
•To make shampoo preparations viscous, for easy handeling and
minimize wastge while pouring , thickening agents are incorporated.
The substances normally used for this purpose are alginates, polyvinyl
alcohol, methy cellulose, colloidal silicates, polyethylene glycol esters
etc.
•Sometimes a suitable combination of surfactants also make the
preparation viscous. sulphated castor oil along with sulphated olive
oil is one such combination.

20. f)Colours:
•They are preferred by several people and thus suitable certified
colours can be incorporated to produce a visually atteractive impact.
The colours should be water soluble.
g)Perfumes:
•They are also incorprated to have an after use fragrance on the hair.
They also help to mask the odour of the other ingredients,
perticularly detergents. Various perfumes are used for this purpose.
Perfumes are used in 0.3 – 1.0%.

21. h)Preservatives:
•They are very important as most products are liable to attack by
microbes. This leads to breakdown of the product, odour,
discoloration and cloudiness. Water soluble preservatives are to be
used and p-hydroxy benzoic acid and its methyl easter, phenyl
mercuric compounds, formaldehyde may be used.

22. SHAMPOO
A Shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant in a suitable form – liquid,solid or
powder which when used under the specialized conditions will remove surface
grease,dirt and skin debris from the hair shaft and scalp without adversely affecting
the user.
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23. INGREDIENTS FOR SHAMPOO
1)Surfactants :
(a) Anionic surfactants :
▶Alkyl benzene sulphonates
▶Alpha oleffin sulphonates
▶Sulphosuccinates
(b) Non-ionic surfactants :
▶Fatty acid alkanolamides
▶Polyalkoxylated derivatives
▶Amine oxides
(c) Amphoteric surfactants :
▶N-alkyl aminoacids
▶Betains
22
▶Alkyl imidazolines

24. 2)Conditioning agents :
▶Lanolin
▶Mineral oil
▶Polypeptides
▶Egg derivatives
▶Herbal extracts
3)Viscosity modifiers :
(a) Electrolytes :
▶Ammonium chloride
▶Sodium chloride
(b) Natural gums :
▶Gum tragacanth
▶Gum karaya
▶Alginates
23

25. (c) Cellulose derivatives :
▶Hydroxyethyl cellulose
▶Hydroxypropyl cellulose
▶Carboxymethyl cellulose
(d) Carboxyvinyl polymers :
▶Polymer of acrylic acid cross-linked with polyfunctional agent
(e) Others :
▶Ethoxylated fatty acid diesters
▶Phosphate esters
▶Polyvinyl pyrrolidones
24

26. 4)Opacifying & Clarifying agents :
▶Stearyl alcohol
▶Cetyl alcohol
▶Propylene glycol
▶Phosphates
▶Finely dispersed zinc oxide
▶Milky emulsions of vinyl polymers
5)Preservatives : ( Formaldehyde , Esters of para hydroxy benzoic acid )
6)Perfumes
25

27. FORMULA :-
Coconut oil -14% v/v
Olive oil -3% v/v
Castor oil -3% v/v
Potassium hydroxide -8% v/v
Glycerol -8% v/v
Sodium hexamethyl cellulose-0.8% v/v
Perfume -0.3% v/v
Sodium carboxymethyl cellulose-2.5% v/v
Water -53% v/v
26

28. Procedure for preparation of shampoo :-
▶Measure the quantity of coconut oil, olive oil , castor oil & take it in a round bottom flask.
▶Potassium hydroxide dissolved in 3/4
th
quantity of water was added to it , heat it in a water
bath for 70-80ºC with constant shaking for 1hr.
▶Take remaining quantity of water and add sodium hexamethyl cellulose , glycerine , perfume &
other ingredients.
▶Then mix both the solution to form a uniform shampoo. 27

29. TYPES OF SHAMPOO
1)Powder shampoo :
FORMULA :-
Henna powder -5%
Soap powder -50%
Sodium carbonate-22.5%
Potassium carbonate-7.5%
Borax -15%
2)Lotion shampoo :
FORMULA :-
Sodium lauryl sulphate -35%
Glyceryl monostearate -2%
Magnesium monostearate -1%
28
Q.S-Perfume
upto 100%
Q.S
-
-
Water
Colour, Perfume & Preservatives

30. 3)Liquidshampoo :
FORMULA :-
Sodium lauryl sulphate - 40%
Sodium chloride - 2-4%
Water - upto 100%
Perfume, Colour & Preservatives- Q.S
4)Anti-Dandruff Shampoo :
FORMULA :-
Selenium sulphide
Bentonite
Sodium lauryl sulphate
Water
Colour , Perfume ,
Preservatives
-2.5%
-5%
-35%
-Upto 100%
-Q.S
29

31. 5)Conditioningshampoo :
FORMULA :-
Stearyl dimethylbenzyl ammonium chloride - 5.5%
Ethylene glycolmonostearate - 2%
Cetyl alcohol - 2.5%
Water - upto 100%
30
Q.S-Colour, Perfume & Preservatives

32. •Dandruff is a harmless, clinical condition that occurs when the
scalp becomes dry or greasy and produces white flakes of dead
skin that appear in the hair or on the shoulder.
•Skin cells are formed continuously on the scalp, so the shedding
of the dead skin cells is normal process. However, with dandruff
skin cells are sheds faster and the oil from the scalp causes the
skin cells to clump together and appear as white flakes.
•Dandruff is caused by Malassezia (Pityrosporum) species which
uses the enzyme lipase to break down sebum to oleic acid which
penetrates into the top layer of the scalp and causes
inflammation and increasd skin cell flaking.
•Symptoms of dandruff :- Flaking and sometimes mild itchiness.
•A more severe form of the condition, which includes
inflammation of the skin, is known as seborrhoeic dermatitis.
•Pityrosporum ovale is strongly suspected to play a role in the
manisfestation of the seborrheic dermatitis.
WHAT IS
DANDRUFF?

33. •The shampoo which is used to prevent dandruff is known as
Anti dandruff shampoo.
•Dandruff is known to be controlled by fungistatic
ingredients in Anti dandruff shampoo.
•These anti dandruff shampoo formulations include Anti
dandruff agents that are classified into following based
on the mechanism of action:
•1. Agents inhibiting overproduction of keratinizing cells
•Eg:- Coal tar
•2. Keratolytic agents that break down cell aggregations
•Eg:- Salicylic acid, colloidal sulfur
•3. Anti-microbial agents that inhibit Malassezia sp.
•Eg:- Selenium disulphide, Zinc pyrithrone, Ketoconazole etc.
WHAT IS ANTI DANDRUFF
SHAMPOO?

34. FORMULATION OF ANTI DANDRUFF SHAMPOO
Ingredients and its role
•Selenium sulphide – 2.5% - Anti dandruff agent
•Bentonite – 5% - preservative
•Sodium lauryl sulphate – 35% - Surfactant
•Water – upto 100
•Color, Perfume, Preservatives – Q.S

35. •Selenium sulfide, bentonite and SLS (if any of the compound
is solid at ambient temp. and require melting) in a drum
oven before use.
•Demineralised water is most commonly used in order to
minimize contamination of the product.
•Mixing and coolingof the prepared shampoo.
•Addin perfume, color, and other preservatives to the shampoo.
•No further processing is required after blending, and the
product may be packed off directly from the mixing vessel.
Method of preparation

36. HOW DANDRUFF SHAPOO WORKS
•Dandruff shampoo has therapeutic effects that soothe
and nourish the scalp to keep it flake-free.
•It contains the ingredients that help restore the health of
the scalp.
•It reduce the irritation and inflammation of scalp.
•They get rid of the bacteria and other impurities that can
trigger dandruff.
•Anti-fungal shampoos are good for fighting dandruff as
they kill bacteria that may cause irritation on scalp.

37. HOW DANDRUFF SHAMPOO WORKS
•Some medicated shampoos may have dryingeffect so one
should find suitable one for the hair type.
•It help control the oil production on the scalp and that
reduces the oiliness of the scalp to help control yeast that
feeds on sebum.
•Many ingredients can help slow down the rate at which skin
cells renew amd other ingredients help get rid of loose
flakes to prevent scaling of scalp.

38. •With the addition to calming down the irritation, the anti-
dandruff shampoo also reduces the redness. It leaves a
person’s scalp with feeling great and your looks its best.
•The anti-dandruff shampoos are very good for controlling
oiliness of the scalp.
•The anti-dandruff shampoo comes with a soothing
formula which easily calms the irritation, and at the same
time, they also provide healthy hair which is 100% flake
free.
•The anti-dandruff shampoo is often formulated with
activate moisturizers. These effective moisturizers
regularly target the dryness, and at the same time, they
keep the scalp healthy and hair beautiful.
•The anti-dandruff shampoos are comprised of zinc-based
activators which can easily calm the itchiness. They make
BENEFITS OF ANTIDANDRUFF SHAMPOO

39. your scalp more radiant and give a complete comfort.

40. •The main active ingredients used include salicylic acid,
zinc pyrithione, coal tar, resorcine, selenium and
ketoconazole, according to the National Institutes of
Health. Though they are effective at combating dandruff,
they may hold several potentially negative side effects.
•Selenium Allergy
•Some people may be allergic to selenium, warns the
National Institutes of Health. The institutes also reports
that skin irritation, rashes and other topical side effects
are most often associated with shampoos containing
selenium at a strength of 2.5 percent or higher.
SIDE EFFECTS

41. •Ketoconazole Hives
•Ketoconazole may prompt itching of your skin, hives and a
rash when using topically, according to the National Institutes
of Health. More serious side effects, such as an increased risk
of cancer, are related only to internal ingestion of the
chemical.
•Salicylic Acid Effects
•Salicylic acid may help with dandruff by loosening dead skin
crusts. You may feel a stinging or burning sensation when
applying a shampoo containing the acid, and it may irritate your
skin, according to the National Institutes of Health. More
SIDE EFFECTS

42. serious, potential side effects may include vomiting, dizziness
and changes in breathing rates, though such effects are rare.

43. What is a conditioning shampoo?
•Conditioning shampoos are formulated to cleanse the hair
and scalp, remove dirt and grime without stripping away too
much of the natural sebum and condition the hair keep it
shiny and healthy.
•A conditioning shampoo generally comprises of 4-25 weight
% of an anionic surfactant or mixtures of two or more anionic
surfactants.
•0.025-3 weight % of a cationic deposition polymer.
•0.1-5 weight % of a detergent soluble silicone with molecular
weight less than 1,00,000 Daltons.

44. •Water

45. •The critical aspect of 2 in 1 shampoo is compatibility of ingredients.
Most of the conditioners (Stearyl) are cationic and surfactants
(Sodium lauryl sulfate) are anionic.
•Hence the primary challenge is to develop a stable product by
maximizing conditioning.

46. How they work?
•These shampoos are made using cleansing agents, perfume,
preservatives and conditioning agents, which can coat the hair
shaft to make it appear thicker and healthy.
•The conditioning agents in these shampoos smooth the cuticle
scales, to ensure that the hair does not tangle, and help hair
eliminate static electricity when it dries.

47. Advantages : -
•These rinse out conditioner help detangle knots and snags, soften
and condition without adding any additional weight to the hair.
Best for hair that is not chemically damaged or fine, limp hair (no
volume and not strong hair) if a conditioner is needed.
•Conditioning shampoos condition the hair to keep it shiny and flexible.
•Conditioning shampoos have proved to be extremely good
for dry hair as they add to the natural oil supply and gives dry hair,
shine as well as strength.

48. Disadvantages : -
•Unless a very light formula is selected, even rinse out conditioners can
weigh down fine strands. Since the conditioner is ultimately rinsed
out, it can help with detangling and snags but ultimately it can not
offer enough intensive conditioning for chemically treated or
damaged hair. It can help soften waves and natural curls but is usually
not enough for helping to smoothen texture.
•Can not be used too frequently or may build up on the hair. Buildup
occurs when certain products like non-water soluble waxes are used
to style the hair. 2 in 1 shampoos are used continuously.

49. Example of conditioning shampoo: -
•Pantene Pro V – Cleanse, moisturize and repair damage.
•OptiDerma – Combination of moisture and protective properties.
•Pert Plus – Helps to increase hair strength, prevents har breakage
and improves over all hair health.

50. E V A L U A TIO N OF SHAMPOO
1)Determination of percent of solid contents :
▶A clean dry evaporating dish was weighed and added 4g of shampoo to it.
▶Evapourating dish with the shampoo was weighed.
▶The exact weight of shampoo was calculated & the evapourating dish with the shampoo was placed on a
hot plate until the liquid portion evapourates.
▶The weight of shampoo only (solids) after drying was calculated.
2)Determination of pH :
▶The pH of 10% shampoo solution in distilled water was determined at room temperature using a digital pH
meter.
3)Determination of viscosity :
▶It is determined using Brookfield viscometer .
▶100ml of shampoo is taken in a beaker & spindle is dipped in it for about 5 minutes and then reading is taken.
31

51. 4)Foaming ability & Foam stability :
▶50ml of 1% shampoo solution was put into a 250ml graduated cylinder and covered the cylinder with
hand and shaken for 10 times.
▶The total volume of the foam contents after 1 minute shaking were recorded.
▶The foam volume was calculated after shaking the volume of the foam at 1 minute interval for 4
minutes were recorded.
5) Skin irritation test :
▶Patch test technique is used here.
▶A set of 6 rabbits were used for testing each material.
▶The shampoo preparations are diluted between concentrations of 8-10%.
▶Patches containing the shampoo preparations were applied & then removed , the skin sites
were noted for any changes on the surface of skin like edema,erythema formation.
▶These products are then classified as mild irritant, moderate & severe.
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52. 6) Cleaning action :
▶5g of wool yarn were placed in grease , after that it was placed in 200ml of water containing 1g of
shampoo in a flask .
▶Temperature was maintained at 35ºC .
▶The flask was shaked for 4 minutes at the rate of 50 times a minute.
▶The solution was removed and sample was taken out, dried and weighed & calculated the amount
of grease removed.
7) Dirt dispersion :
▶Two drops of shampoo were added in a large test tube containing 10ml of distilled water.
▶1 drop of ink was added ; the test tube was stoppered and shaked it 10 times.
▶The amount of ink in the foam was estimated as none, light , moderate or heavy.
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53. 8) Surface tension measurement :
▶Measurements were carried out with a 10% shampoo solution in distilled water at room
temperature.
▶Thoroughly clean the stalagmometer with purified water because surface tension is highly affected
with grease or other lubricants.
▶Surface tension measurement is done by the following equation :-
9) Eye irritation test :
▶About 1% shampoo solution was dripped into the eyes of 6 albino rats with their eyes held open with
the clips at the lid.
▶The progressive damage to the rabbit’s eyes was recorded at specific intervals over an
average period of 4 seconds.
▶Reaction to the irritants can include swelling of the eyelid , inflammation of the iris , ulceration
, haemorrhaging and blindness.
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