Cosmaceuticals

1,018 views 71 slides Mar 27, 2020
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About This Presentation

DR.SHUMAILA LATIF
DEPARTMENT OF PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES
BAQAI MEDICAL UNIVERSITY


Slide Content

Cosmeceutical A Category between cosmetic and drug

Cosmeceutical term created in 1990s from cosm ( etic ) + ( pharma ) ceutic It’s a cosmetic product claimed to have medicinal or drug-like benefits. Examples: Anti-aging creams, serums, Moisturizers etc. These are marketed as cosmetics, but contain biologically active ingredients. Majority of cosmeceutical products are not subjected to review and approval process Fastest growing segment of Cosmetics & Personal Care. Cosmeceutical

Cosme ceutical The marriage of cosmetics to pharmaceuticals

What are “COSMECEUTICALS”? The term “ cosmeceutical ” was introduced by dermatologist Dr Albert Kligman in 1984 and is derived from a combination of the words  cosme tic and pharma ceutical. Cosmeceuticals are products that have both cosmetic and therapeutic (medical or drug-like) effects, and are intended to have a beneficial effect on skin health and beauty. Like cosmetics, they are applied topically as creams or lotions but contain active ingredients that have an effect on skin cell function. In some cases, their action is limited to the skin surface (such as exfoliants ), while others can penetrate to deeper levels, either enhancing or limiting normal skin functions. Cosmeceuticals are available “over-the-counter” (without prescription) and are generally used as part of a regular skin care regime to help improve skin tone and texture, pigmentation and fine lines.

Do cosmeceuticals really work? Ideally cosmeceuticals should be clinically tested to ensure they have a proven benefit and can substantiate their claims, however, the cosmeceutical industry is largely unregulated. Unlike medicines, cosmeceuticals are not subject to review by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States or the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) in Australia. Although they are usually tested for safety, they do not have to undergo testing to ensure the claims they make regarding efficacy (effectiveness) are accurate. Unfortunately, many creams do not live up to their advertised hype.

Need for Cosmeceutical Products work at cellular level and treat imperfections Avoid harsh chemicals associated with cosmetic products Effectively counter the effect of changing environmental conditions Single product can be used for multiple purposes Cost effective alternate to cosmetic surgery Ability to resolve the cause rather than covering

How does the law define a cosmetic? The  Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act  (FD&C Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use, as "articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body...for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance" [FD&C Act, sec. 201( i )]

How does the law define a drug? The FD&C Act defines drugs, in part, by their intended use, as "articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease" and "articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man or other animals" [FD&C Act, sec. 201(g)(1)].

How can a product be both a cosmetic and a drug? Some products meet the definitions of both cosmetics and drugs. This may happen when a product has two intended uses. For example, a shampoo is a cosmetic because its intended use is to cleanse the hair. An antidandruff treatment is a drug because its intended use is to treat dandruff. Consequently, an antidandruff shampoo is both a cosmetic and a drug. Among other cosmetic/drug combinations are toothpastes that contain fluoride, deodorants that are also antiperspirants, and moisturizers and makeup marketed with sun-protection claims. Such products must comply with the requirements for both cosmetics and drugs. Kalustian , P., 1985. Pharmaceutical and cosmetic uses of palm and lauric products.  Journal of the American Oil Chemists’ Society ,  62 (2), pp.431-433.

DIFFERENCE COSMETIC AND DRUG

CLASSIFICATIONOF COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCTS The cosmeceuticals are mainly divided into seven categories. In choosing an effective Cosmeceuticals regimen it is critical to match patients and their problems with the appropriate products. Most patients have multiple needs, and they should be matched with products that offer ingredients with multifunctional benefits.

Also It can be broadly classified into following categories according to their daily life uses. 1 Creams, emulsions, lotions, gels and oils for the skin (hands face, feet, etc.). 2 Face masks (with the exception of chemical peeling products). 3 Tinted bases (liquids, pastes, powders). 4 Make-up powders, after-bath powders, hygienic powders, etc. 6 Perfumes , toilet waters and eau de Cologne. 7 Bath and shower preparations (salts, foams, oils, gels, etc.). 8 Depilatories. 9 Deodorants and anti- perspirants .

10 Hair care products:  Hair tints and bleaches,  Products for waving, straightening and fixing,  Setting products,  Cleansing products (lotions, powders, shampoos),  Conditioning products (lotions, creams, oils),  Hair dressing products (lotions, lacquers, brilliantine). 11 Shaving products (creams, foams, lotions, etc.). 12 Products for making-up and removing make-up from the face and the eyes. 13 Products intended for application to the lips. 14 Products for care of the teeth and the mouth. 15 Products for nail care and make-up. 16 Products for external intimate hygiene. 17 Sunbathing products. 18 Products for tanning without sun. 19 Skin-whitening products. 20 Anti-wrinkle products.

Mechanisms of current cosmeceutical agents. Alpha- hydroxyacid (AHA), post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), ultraviolet light (UV).

Moisturizers The main cutaneous function of cosmeceuticals is to enhance the barrier function of the skin following a resurfacing procedure. Enhancing the barrier decreases stinging and burning from a sensory standpoint and improves the look and feel of the skin. Moisturizers can smooth down desquamating corneocytes and fill in the gaps between the renaming corneocytes to create the impression of tactile smoothness. This effect is temporary, of course, until the

moisturizer is removed from the skin surface by wiping or cleansing. From a functional standpoint. Moisturizers can create an optimal environment for healing and rninirnize the appearance of lines of dehydration by decreasing transepidermal water loss. Trans epidermal water loss increases when the brick-and-mortar organization of the protein -rich corneocytes held together by intercellular lipids is damaged. A well-formulated cosmeceutical moisturizer can decrease the water loss until healing occurs following a resurfacing procedure. There are two cosmeceutical ingredient categories that can reduce transepidermal water loss post-resurfacing: occlusive and humectants. The most common method for reducing transepidermal water loss is the application of occlusive ingredients in combination with humectant ingredients in a thin moisturizer film.

2. Photoprotection Many new developments have occurred in the photoprotection cosmeceutical market to increase both efficacy and cosmetic acceptability. Higher sun protection factor (SPF) formulations are more popular as new sunscreen combinations arise that provide better ultraviolet B (UVB) protection. New methods of increasing the longevity of UVA photoprotectants provide better broad-spectrum protection. These advances have improved the ability of sunscreens to prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation following resurfacing.

Sunscreen filters can be classified into two major categoties . Chemical and physical. Chemical sunscreens also known as organic filters, undergo a chemical transformation known as resonance delocalization to absorb UV radiation and transform it to heat. This reaction occurs within the phenol ring, which contains an electron-releasing group in the ortho and/or para position, and is irreversible, rendering the sunscreen inactive once it has absorbed the UV radiation. Physical sunscreens, also known as inorganic filters, are usually ground particulates that reflect or scatter UV radiation absorbing relatively little of the energy. For this reason they have longer activity on the skin surface.

2.1 Luffa cylindrica L. cylindrica (Linn) M. Roem . is a climber with a slender, slightly hairy stem with little furrowing. The seeds of L. cylindrica contain oil in which the fatty acids are stearic and linoleic acids - are unsaturated fatty acids. It has been reported that naturally occurring unsaturated fatty acids and phenolic compounds have free radical scavenging properties In a study by Yoganandam et al , it was concluded that the fixed oil isolated from the seed kernels of the plant not only scavenges off the free radicals but also inhibits generation of free radicals . 7 | P a g e

2.2 Portulaca oleracea Portulaca oleracea (Common Purslane ; also known as Verdolaga , Pigweed, Little Hogweed or Pusley ) is an annual succulent in the family Portulacaceae , which can reach 40 cm in height. It is found throughout India and the Middle East, but is naturalized elsewhere, and in some regions, is considered an invasive weed. The whole plant is considered antiphlogistic (takes the heat out), a bactericide, antidiabetic , anaphrodisiac (opposite to aphrodisiac), emollient, calmative, diuretic, and refreshing agent. Sanja et al has proved the antioxidant activity of the methanol extract using methods such as DPPH free radical scavenging, reducing power estimation by FeCl3, nitric oxide free radical scavenging superoxide scavenging activity. The extract has a tendency to scavenge the free radicals involved in the ageing process and skin wrinkling and thus may provide some photoprotective action rejuvenate the skin. The fresh gel, juice or formulated products have been used for medical and cosmetic purposes and to enhance general health.

2.3 Terminalia chebul Terminalia chebula , also called Harde , belongs to the family Combretaceae . It is used commonly in many Ayurvedic preparations as laxative, diuretic and cardiotonic , as well as in some health supplements. Its chemical constituents include ascorbic acid, gallic acid and ellagic acid, which are well known to exert free radical scavenging properties.

2.4 Piper longum Piper longum L. belonging to the family Piperaceae , is commonly found in Indonesia, India and the Phillipines . It consists of a spike of fruits forming a structure about 4 cm long and 6 mm in diameter. The fruit (pepper) contains 1 - 2.5 % volatile oil, 5 – 95 % of crystalline alkaloid piperine and piperettine , and a resin. Piperine extracted from this plant has been used as an ingredient in Ayurvedic formulations because of its antioxidant potency both in vitro and in vivo in mice. Piperine , due to this antioxidant property, is used topically in a cream base to treat sunburn diseases.

2.5 Aloe Vera The leaves of Aloe vera (A. barbadensis) (Fam. Liliaceace ) are the source of aloe vera gel. The gel does not include the sap of Aloe vera, which contains anthraquinones . Aloe vera gel is widely used in cosmetics and toiletries for its moisturizing and revitalizing action. The whole leaf of Aloe vera is known to aid cellular repair as well as digestion, assimilation of foods, vitamins, minerals and other vital nutrients to rejuvenate the skin. The fresh gel, juice or formulated products have been used for medical and cosmetic purposes and to enhance general health.

3. Sunscreen Agents Use of sunscreen agents and limiting the exposure to sun prevents early wrinkling and skin cancer. Sunscreen agents are used to prevent sunburns. There are two kinds of sunscreen agents: chemical and physical. Chemical sunscreen agents protect the skin from the sun by absorbing the ultraviolet (UV) and visible sun rays, while physical sunscreen agents reflect, scatter, absorb, or block the rays. Sunscreen agents often may comprise more than one ingredient. For example, products may contain an ingredient that provides protection against the ultraviolet A (UVA) sun rays and another ingredient that protects from the ultraviolet B (UVB) sun rays, which are more likely to cause sunburns than the UVA sun rays. Ideally, coverage should include protection against both UVA and UVB sun rays.

The sun protection factor (SPF) that is present on the label of these products reflects the minimum amount of UVB sunlight that is needed with that product to produce redness on sunscreen protected skin as compared with unprotected skin. Sunscreen products with high SPFs provide more protection against the sun. The following sunscreen agents have been recommended by the U.S. Department of Health: Cycloform (isobutyl p‐amino benzoate) • Propylene glycol p‐amino benzoate • Monoglyceryl p‐amino benzoate • Digalloyl trioleate • Benzyl salicylate and benzyl cinnamate (2% each)

Besides these, chemical sunscreens mainly based on para ‐amino benzoic acid, its deivatives , cinnamates , various salicylates and benzophenones , dibenzoylmethanes , anthraline derivatives, octocrylene and homosalate are frequently employed as sun blocking agents. Direct physical blockers include metal containing compounds such as iron, zinc, titanium, and bismuth. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are highly reflective white powders, but submicron zinc oxide or titaniumdioxide powder particles transmit visible light while retaining their UV blocking properties, thus rendering the sun block invisible on the skin.

3.1 Vitamins Exposure to the UV radiations accelerates the aging effect of the skin. The progressive telomere shortening and finally its disruption by low‐grade oxidative damage are related to the aging. Damage is initiated by the generation of reactive oxygen species (free radicals). It is a progressive process whose consequences are damage to DNA. The topical treatment of acne vulgaris with vitamin A, is very well supported by evidence. Vitamin B3, commonly known as nicotinamide or niacinamide , is available in cosmetic and cosmeceutical products and can be used as a complementary agent for some types of acne, as well as aging skin. Activation of toll‐like receptors may also be involved in the scarring process by activating the metalloproteinases the retinoids arem vitamin A derivatives constituting the most effective comedolytic agents. They function by normalizing desquamation of the follicular epithelium, preventing the formation of new microcomedo , and minimiz the formation of comedones and inflammatory lesions. Nicotinamide is useful as a complementary drug because of its mild anti‐inflammatory activity and its possible action in the reduction of sebum production and improvement of the skin barrier.

4. Skin Lightening Agents Hyperpigmentation is the changing of colour intensity of the skin to darker hue, which is due to an increased amount of melanin in the epidermis, the dermis, or both. This change can be due to 2 pathophysiologic processes: melanocytosis (increased number of melanocytes ) and melanosis (increased amount of melanin). Skin lightening agents work best when melanosis or melanocytosis is confined to the epidermis. Patients with Fitzpatrick skin types III have advantage over type‐ IV such as type I‐III benefit from local pigment lightening for the treatment of hormonally induced melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation caused by acne and trauma, whereas those with Fitzpatrick skin types IV and darker may also seek therapy for pigmentary changes that occur around the eyes, in the intertriginous areas, following dermatitis, or with acne and trauma. Standard dermatologic agent for skin lightening is hydroquinone but its safety is questionable, leading to the use of alternative agents such as retinoids , mequinol , azelaic acid, arbutin , kojic acid, aleosin , licorice extract, ascorbic acid, soy proteins, and N ‐acetyl glucosamine.

5. Antioxidants Antioxidants form one of the most popular categories of cosmeceutical ingredients. This is due tGthe fact that the major cause of cutaneous aging is oxidation of skin structures from highly reactive oxygen molecules present in our oxygen-rich environment. It is amazing tG think that the life-giving oxygen required to survive is also the same oxygen responsible for aging the human body. The primary souree of cosmeceutical antioxidant ingredients is botanical extracts, since all plants must protect themselves from oxidation following UV exposure. Antioxidant botanieals function by quenching singlet oxygen and reactive oxygen species, such as superoxide anions. hydroxyl radicals fatty peroxy radicals and hydroperoxides .

There are many botanical antioxidants available. Both from raw-material suppliers and from the cosmeceutical industry and they can be classified in three categones , Carotenoids , flavonoids and polyphenols . Carotenoids are chemically related to retinoids , while flavonoids possess a polyphenolic structure that accounts for their antioxidant, UVprotectant , and metal chelation abilities. Lastly, polyphenols represent a chemical subset of flavonoids. Antioxidants are found in many skin lines for use following resurfacing procedures. They are typically placed in moisturizing vehicles that may aid in healing through the prevention of transepidermal water loss. Whether Cosmeceuticals the antioxidant formulation extends the effect of a resurfacing procedure has never been documented, yet their frequent use demands a thorough understanding of their function.

5.1 Carotenoids Carotenoids are derivatives of vitamin A and have found widespread use in cosmeceuticals due to the established topical anti-aging benefits associated with the prescription retinoid tretinoin . The carotenoids are a large family of orange, red, and yellow substances that perform vital antioxidant roles when ingested and are less well established as topical antioxidants. The carotenoids are discussed in detail here.

5.2 Astaxanthin Astaxanthin is a pink carotenoid found in high concentration in salmon accounting for the characteristic pink color of the fish. This is the rationale for anti-aging diets recommending the ingestion of a serving of salmon fivemtimes weekly. For topical application purposes. Astaxanthin is obtained from the marine rnicroalgae Haematococcus pluvialis . The efficacy of astaxanth in is attributed to its cell mernbrane composed of two external lipid layers, which has been touted to possess stronger antioxidant abilities than vitamin E. Few studies exist to confirm the topical effect of astaxanthin , but it has been studied extensively as an oral supplement. Astaxanthin in concentrations of 0.03-0.07% produces a pink-colored cream. This limits the concentration that can be used, but no topical adverse reactions have been associated with this carotenoid . The topical antioxidant benefits of astaxanthin have not been established.

5.3 Lutein Another carotenoid found in topical cosmeceuticals is lutein . It is naturally found in green leafy vegetables. Such as spinach and kale. Lutein is an antioxidant in the plant kingdom, also being used for blue light absorption, in the animal kingdom, lutein is found in egg yolks, animal fats and the corpus luteum . It is a lipophilic molecule, not soluble in water, characterized bya long polyene side chain composed of conjugated double bonds. These double bonds are degraded by light and heat, a universal characteristic of carotenoids to a greater or lesser degree. The topical value of lutein in wound healing has never been evaluated.

8. Hydroxy Acids Hydroxy acids are organic carboxylic acids classified into alphahydroxy acids (AHA), beta‐ hydroxy acids (BHA), polyhydroxy acids, and bionic acids on the basis of their molecular structure. Hydroxy acids are found in most of the marketed cosmetic preparation but are used in very low concentration.

8.1 α- Hydroxyacids The AHAs are organic carboxylic acids with one hydroxyl group attached to the α-position of the carboxyl group. The hydroxyl and carboxyl groups are both directly attached to an aliphatic or alicyclic carbon atom. The hydroxyl group in the AHA is neutral, and only the carboxyl group provides an acidic property. Many AHAs are present in foods and fruits and, therefore, are called fruit acids. Glycolic acid, the smallest AHA, occurs in sugar cane and is the most widely used HA in skin care. Lactic acid, the next smallest AHA, is also widely used in topical formulations to exfoliate and provide antiaging effects. Some AHAs contain a phenyl group as a side-chain substituent. This changes the solubility profile of the AHA, providing increased lipophilicity over conventional water-soluble AHAs and can be used to target oily and acne-prone skin. Examples include mandelic acid (phenyl glycolic acid) and benzilic acid ( diphenyl glycolic acid).

8.2 β- Hydroxyacids

The BHAs are organic carboxylic acids having one hydroxyl group attached to the β-position of the carboxyl group. The hydroxyl group in the BHA is neutral in nature and the carboxyl group provides the acidic property. Some BHAs, such as β- hydroxybutanoic acid, are present in body tissues as metabolic intermediates and energy sources; however, they have not yet been commercialized in dermatologic formulations. Some molecules are both an AHA and BHA because they contain a hydroxyl group in the α-position to one carboxyl group and in the β-position to another carboxyl group.

Malic acid (apple acid), for example, contains one hydroxyl and two carboxyl groups, and citric acid contains one hydroxyl and three carboxyl groups, making both molecules an AHA and a BHA. Citric acid is widely used in topical formulations as an antioxidant and pH adjustor, and its antiaging benefits are well established.5 Although some have termed salicylic acid a BHA, we do not consider it to be a BHA; for that reason, it is not included in this discussion. Salicylic acid behaves differently on skin than other HAs, presumably due to its phenolic hydroxyl attachment that renders the hydroxyl acidic rather than neutral.

8.3 Bionic acids The BAs are chemically classified as aldobionic acids. They consist of one carbohydrate monomer chemically linked to an aldonic acid PHA; examples are lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid, and cellobionic acid. BAs are commonly obtained from their disaccharide through chemical or enzymatic oxidation; for example, lactobionic acid is obtained from lactose, maltobionic acid from maltose, and cellobionic acid from cellobiose . Although the BAs are larger molecules than traditional AHAs, they are small enough to penetrate skin at approximately 358 daltons , and their pKa is roughly equivalent to smaller AHA molecules; for example, the pKa of lactobionic acid is 3.8, which matches that of glycolic acid.

BAs are hygroscopic materials that readily attract and retain water, forming a gel matrix when their aqueous solution is evaporated at room temperature. The transparent gel contains certain amounts of water, forming a clear gel matrix. Formation of a gel matrix may add protective and soothing effects for inflamed skin. Indeed, formulations containing BA are well tolerated and help calm skin when applied after cosmetic procedures that weaken the skin’s barrier, including superficial HA peels and microdermabrasion . One notable protective use of lactobionic acid, a BA used in some commercial skin care formulations, is as an antioxidant chelator in organ transplantation preservation solutions.

9. Growth Factors Growth factors act as regulators in wound healing and on exogenous application can modify the process. Two peptide growth factors which play a pivotal role in normal wound healing in tissues such as skin, cornea and the gastrointestinal (GI) tract are the structurally related peptides epidermal growth factor (EGF) and transforming growth factor alpha (TGF-a). Other peptides such as basic and acidic fibroblast growth factors ( bFGF and aFGF ), platelet derived growth factors (PDGF-AA, -AB and -BB) and insulin-like growth factor (IGF-I) have been identified as potential wound-healing agents. EGF/TGF-a receptors are expressed by many types of cells including skin keratinocytes , fibroblasts, vascular endothelial cells and epithelial cells of the GI tract.

Healing of a variety of wounds in animals and patients has been enhanced by treatment with EGF or TGF-a. EGF also increased the tensile strength of skin incisions in rats and corneal incisions in rabbits, cats and primates. Sorensen et al. demonstrated that two of the important growth factors in wound healing, IGF-I and TGF-a, induce the expression of the AMPs/polypeptides hCAP-18, hbD-3, NGAL and SLPI in human keratinocytes .

10. Glutathaion (skin whitening)

Molecular Structure and Function of Glutathione Glutathione (γ- glutamyl-cysteinylglycine ) is a small, low-molecular weight, water-soluble thiol-tripeptide formed by three amino acids (glutamate, cysteine and glycine ). It is a ubiquitous compound with a biologically active sulfhydryl group contributed by the cysteine moiety that acts as the active part of the molecule. [  This sulfhydryl group allows for interaction with a variety of biochemical systems, hence the abbreviation “GSH” for its active form. Glutathione is one of the most active antioxidant systems in human physiology

Glutathione and Human Pigmentation Melanin in human skin is a polymer of various indole compounds synthesized from L-tyrosine by the Raper –Mason pathway of melanogenesis [Figure 2] with tyrosinase being the rate limiting enzyme. The ratio of the two different types of melanin found in skin, black-brown colored eumelanin and yellow-red pheomelanin , determines the skin colour . An increased proportion of pheomelanin is associated with lighter skin colour .

Intravenous glutathione Due to the low bioavailability of oral glutathione, intravenous injections are being promoted to provide desired therapeutic levels in the blood and skin and to produce “instant” skin-lightening. Interestingly, intravenous injections of glutathione have been used for years but there is not even a single clinical trial evaluating its efficacy. Manufacturers of intravenous glutathione injections recommend a dose of 600–1200 mg for skin lightening, to be injected once to twice weekly. The duration for which they should be continued is not specified. Intravenous administration is expected to deliver 100% bioavailability of glutathione, much more compared to that achieved by oral administration. However, there are no studies to support this hypothesis. Although intravenous glutathione delivers a much higher therapeutic dose that enhances its efficacy, it also provides a narrower margin of safety due to the possibility of overdose toxicity.

Topical Pharmacological Agents with Anti-Aging Properties Anti-aging creams may include conventional moisturising ingredients. They also usually contain specific anti-aging ingredients, such as: Retinol  (for instance, in the form of  retinyl palmitate ). In various formulations it has been shown to reduce fine lines and pores. Epidermal growth factor , to stimulate cell renewal and  collagen  production in the skin, and strengthen elasticity and structure. Alpha hydroxy acids  (AHAs) and  beta hydroxy acids  or other  chemical peels . These help to dissolve the intracellular "glue" that holds dead cells together on the skin. The use of this type of product on a daily basis gradually enhances the  exfoliation  of the  epidermis . This exposes newer skin cells and can help improve appearance. AHAs may irritate some skin, causing redness and flaking. Peptides , such as Matryxil and  copper peptides . Coenzyme Q10

Botulinum Toxin Botulinum toxin (BTX) has no effect on skin texture and cannot discontinue the skin aging process. However, regular BTX injections can slow down the visible aging process by helping in the management of certain dynamic facial lines and wrinkles. The mechanism of action of BTX makes it an ideal agent to target the major cause of these dynamic lines.

Cosmetic products ingredients beeswax and  candelilla wax . Various oils and fats olive oil mineral oil cocoa butter lanolin petrolatum .

Cosmeceutical product ingredients Common ingredients in anti-wrinkle creams Retinol. ... Vitamin C. Another potent antioxidant, vitamin C may help protect skin from sun damage. ... Hydroxy acids. ... Coenzyme Q10. ... Peptides. ... Tea extracts. ... Grape seed extract. ... Niacinamide .

category COSMETIC DRUGS Moistening shampoo Anti dandruff shampoo Mustering creams whitening creams Lipstick Anti-aging Eye shadow Anti-wrinkle cream Hair dye and colorant Acne Aiad soap

What ingredients are prohibited or restricted by FDA regulations? Bithionol : photocontact sensitization Chlorofluorocarbon propellants Chloroform: cancer Halogenated salicylanilides : skin disorders Hexachlorophene: Mercury compounds: allergic reactions, skin irritation, or neurotoxic problems

The Advantages of Cosmeceuticals Address the root-causes  Safe for long-terms use Complementary role Promote beauty through health & wellness of skin Cosmeceutical with natural ingredients are preferred

The Future Perspective & Applications Improving Skin Complexion Preventing Visible Effects of Ageing Controlling/Reducing Wrinkles Freckle & Black Spot Acne & Pimple scars Controlling Sebum Reducing Cellulite

The Future Perspective & Applications Use of plant stem cell technology in anti aging products, a new trend in the market Use of active ingredients is another trend witnessed by the market Increasing usage of cosmeceutical by men segment will contribute to the growth of the market

Most of the cosmetic or personal care players are sifting towards cosmeceutical The Asian markets dominated by domestic players In Asia, especially China, pharmaceutical companies are shifting towards cosmeceutical industry The Future Perspective & Applications

“Pakistan Scenario” It is very heartening to note, that a comparatively newer concept of Cosmeceuticals has already been introduced in Pakistan which will surely provide Cosmetic Surgeons, Dermatologists, Beauticians, and Consumers a safe and effective alternative for maintaining a healthy and beautiful skin. “LEGAL Aspects” The term ‘cosmeceutical’ has no meaning under law. They are not subject to review by the Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act. Although some cosmeceuticals are tested for safety, testing to determine whether active ingredients actually live up to a manufacturer’s claim is not mandatory.

Cosmeceutical in Cosmetics Market Penetration (2015 & 2020) Cosmeceutical penetration expected to grow 30% by 2020 Cosmeceutical Cosmetics 87% 13% Cosmeceutical Cosmetics 83% 17%

Skin Care Cosmeceutical Market Anti-aging cosmeceutical are the star performers Sun protection and anti acne other widely used products The 35+ age group a major opportunity BB and CC creams are the latest trend Use of technologically sophisticated ingredients growing In Asia, skin whitening products posses huge opportunity China and India focal point for growth By Application (2015e) Skin Whitening Sun Protection Professional Skin Care Anti - Acne Others Anti Aging 41% 17% 16% 14% 9% 3% Market (Billion US$) CAGR 8% 2015e 2020f 25 37

Developed region major market for hair growth Anti Dandruff is the fasted growing segment High demand of hair care products from men Active ingredients based products being launched Emerging economies are the focal point for growth Hair Care Cosmeceutical Market By Application (2015e) Anti - Dandruff Others Hair Growth 52% 40% 8% Market (Billion US$) CAGR 8% 2015e 2020f 6 9

Injectable Cosmeceutical Market Botox most widely used botulinum toxin Dermal fillers segment fastest growing Affluent section is the major user of dermal fillers Hyaluronic acid (HA) based fillers are most extensively used Solid HA filler an advanced version Other dermal filler materials - Collagen and Calcium hydroxylapatite By Application (2015e) Dermal Fillers Others Botulinum Toxin 65% 23% 12% Market (Billion US$) CAGR 10% 2015e 2020f 2 3

Lip balms, most widely used lip care product Tooth whitening highest growing segment Aging population major consumer of anti cellulite products Launch of low priced products in Asian regions The Asian countries focal point for growth Others Cosmeceutical Market By Application (2015e) Others Anti-Cellulite/ Body Slimming Preparations Tooth Whitening Lip Care 30% 32% 10% 28% Market (Billion US$) CAGR 9% 2015e 2020f 8 13

Cosmeceutical Market: Regions Asia Pacific is the largest market Rising disposable income major factor for the growth of Asia Pacific market Anti agers and skin whitening high growth segments in Asia Pacific market Players investing in emerging economies North America and Europe are expected to witness moderate growth. Anti agers are leading the North American and European market 2020f Asia Pacific Rest of the World North America Europe 24% 13% 57% 6% 2015e Asia Pacific Rest of the World North America Europe 29% 16% 49% 6%

Asia Pacific Cosmeceutical Market Skin care is the major segment Injectable segment is the fastest growing High demand for herbal and less expensive cosmeceutical 30 + age group women- Major consumer of skin care cosmeceutical The growth of the market will be focused on India and China India is becoming a hub for cosmeceutical based clinical studies in South East Asia By Country (2015e) Rest of the Asia India China Japan 40% 30% 16% 14% Market (Billion US$) CAGR 11% 2015e 2020f 20 35

Rest of the World Cosmeceutical Market Latin America especially Brazil is the major market Brazil is the third largest consumer market for cosmetics and other products related to beauty Hair care is the largest segment in Latin America Skin care products are extensively used in African countries High demand for natural and low priced products in the market Foreign players are focusing on RoW market Market (Billion US$) CAGR 10% 2015e 2020f 2 4

The usage of cosmeceuticals has drastically hiked in recent years, which in turn has increased the spectrum of the physician to broaden their range of products to enhance the comeliness of the patients associated with dermal problems. However , at times, where generations are keenly worried for their beauty, lots of manufacturing companies are competing and working hard to provide convincing results to meet requirements of the patients . CONCLUSION

Claims of effectiveness lack convincing evidence, thus the industry is challenged to provide evidence on the effectiveness of these compounds. Cosmeceuticals like vitamins, sunscreens, hydroxyl acids & many more have diseases thus enhancing the skin texture. Clinical trials of cosmeceuticals are important to know the interaction skin and cosmeceuticals which could even be influenced by environmental fact.