Cosmetic Science

Introduction and Evolution vof Cosmetic to cosmaceuticals

1. BP809ET - COSMETIC SCIENCE Dr. Vinod M. Thakare Professor M. Pharm., Ph.D., MBA Nagpur College of Pharmacy Wanadongri , Hingna Road, Nagpur 441110

2. Syllabus UNIT-I 10 Hours Classification of cosmetic and cosmeceutical products Definition of cosmetics as per Indian and EU regulations, Evolution of cosmeceuticals from cosmetics, cosmetics as quasi and OTC drugs Cosmetic excipients : Surfactants, rheology modifiers, humectants, emollients , preservatives. Classification and application Skin : Basic structure and function of skin . Hair : Basic structure of hair. Hair growth cycle. Oral Cavity: Common problem associated with teeth and gums.

3. Definition of cosmetic products as per Indian regulation . According to D & C Act 1940 and the Rule in 1945 “Cosmetic is define as the means any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, or introduced into, or otherwise applied to, the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance, and includes any article intended for use as a component of cosmetic

4. Cosmetic products definition’ means any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odours. ( EU Regulation 1223/2009, Article 2.1.a)

5. The assessment of whether a product is a cosmetic product has to be made on the basis of a  case-by-case assessment , taking into account all characteristics of the products. Products containing substances or preparations intended to be  ingested, inhaled, injected or implanted in the human body do not come under the Cosmetic products definition.

6. CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS SOLIDS POWDERS  SOAPS, etc. SEMISOLIDS CREAMS OINTMENTS SAMPOOS TOOTH PASTE, etc LIQUIDS LIQUIDS SAMPOO ROSE WATER, etc GASEOUS AEROSOLS

7. Product Category Code Form- FDA 2512  01. Baby Products A. Baby Shampoos B . Lotions, Oils, Powders, and Creams C . Other Baby Products 02. Bath Preparations A . Bath Oils, Tablets, and Salts B . Bubble Bath C . Bath Capsules D . Other Bath Preparations 03. Eye Makeup Preparations A. Eyebrow Pencil, B . Eyeliner C . Eye Shadow D . Eye Lotion E . Eye Makeup Remover F. Mascara G . Other Eye Makeup Preparations

8. 04. Fragrance Preparations A . Cologne and Toilet Waters B . Perfumes C . Powders (dusting and talcum, excluding aftershave talc) D . Sachets E . Other Fragrance Preparations 05. Hair Preparations (non- coloring ) A . Hair B . Hair Spray (aerosol fixatives) C . Hair Straighteners D . Permanent Waves E . Rinses (non- coloring ) F . Shampoos (non- coloring ) G . Tonics, Dressings, and Other Hair Grooming Aids H . Wave Sets I . Other Hair Preparations 06. Hair Coloring Preparations A . Hair Dyes and Colors (all types requiring caution statements and patch tests ) B . Hair Tints C . Hair Rinses ( coloring ) D . Hair Shampoos ( coloring ) E . Hair Color Sprays (aerosol) F . Hair Lighteners with Color G . Hair Bleaches H . Other Hair Coloring Preparations

9. 07. Makeup Preparations (not eye) A . Blushers (all types) B . Face Powders Foundations C . Leg and Body Paints D . Lipstick E. Makeup Bases F. Rouges G . Makeup Fixatives H. Other Makeup Preparations 08. Manicuring Preparations A. Basecoats and Undercoats B . Cuticle Softeners C . Nail Creams and Lotions D . Nail Extenders E . Nail Polish and Enamel F . Nail Polish and Enamel Removers G . Other Manicuring Preparations 09. Oral Hygiene Products A. Dentifrices (aerosol, liquid, pastes, and powders) B . Mouthwashes and Breath Fresheners (liquids and sprays) C . Other Oral Hygiene Products

10. 10. Personal Cleanliness A . Bath Soaps and Detergents B . Deodorants (underarm) C . Douches D . Feminine Deodorants E . Other Personal Cleanliness Products 11. Shaving Preparations A . Aftershave Lotion B . Beard Softeners C . Men's Talcum D . Preshave Lotions (all types) E . Shaving Cream (aerosol, brushless, and lather) F . Shaving Soap (cakes, sticks, etc.) G . Other Shaving Preparations

11. 12. Skin Care Preparations (Creams, Lotions, Powders, and Sprays) A . Cleansing (cold creams, cleansing lotions, liquids, and pads) B . Depilatories C . Face and Neck (excluding shaving preparations) D . Body and Hand (excluding shaving preparations) E . Foot Powders and Sprays F. Moisturizing G . Night H . Paste Masks (mud packs) I . Skin Fresheners J . Other Skin Care Preparations 13. Suntan Preparations A . Suntan Gels, Creams, and Liquids B . Indoor Tanning Preparations C . Other Suntan Preparations  

12. Cosmeceuticals means combination of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with biologically active ingredients purporting to have medical or drug like benefits. Cosmeceuticals are used to improve and nourish the skin appearance and known to treat different dermatologic conditions.

13. Evolution of cosmeceuticals from cosmetics, cosmetics as quasi and OTC drugs The Egyptians were the first to recognize the health properties of cosmetics. Up to the 19th century, there was no clear distinction between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals ; The separation occurred when the first modern pharmaceutical industry was developed. Cosmeceuticals rapidly expanded in the 1980s due to hydroxy acids (natural fruit acids) used as exfoliants against wrinkles. Raymond Reed, founding member of the United States Society of Cosmetic Chemists, coined the term ‘ Cosmeceutical ’ in 1961. In 1971, Albert Klingman reactivated interest in cosmeceuticals by developing a formula to improve the appearance of UV damaged and wrinkled skin, using retinoic acid.

14. 10,000 BCE: Cosmetics are an integral part of Egyptian hygiene and health. Men and women in Egypt use scented oils and ointments to clean and soften their skin and mask body odor . Oils and creams are used for protection against the hot Egyptian sun and dry winds. Myrrh , thyme, marjoram, chamomile, lavender, lily, peppermint, rosemary, cedar, rose, aloe, olive oil, sesame oil, and almond oil provide the basic ingredients of most perfumes Egyptians use in religious rituals.

15. 4000 BCE: Egyptian women apply galena mesdemet (made of copper and lead ore) and malachite (bright green paste of copper minerals) to their faces for color and definition. They use kohl (a combination of burnt almonds, oxidized copper, different colored coppers ores, lead, ash, and ochre) to adorn the eyes in an almond shape. Women carry cosmetics to parties in makeup boxes and keep them under their chairs.

16. 3000 BCE: The Chinese stain their fingernails with gum arabic , gelatin , beeswax, and egg. The colors are used as a representation of social class: Chou dynasty royals wear gold and silver, with subsequent royals wearing black or red. Lower classes are forbidden to wear bright colors on their nails.Grecian women paint their faces with white lead and apply crushed mulberries as rouge. The application of fake eyebrows, often made of oxen hair, is also fashionable.

17. 1500 BCE: Chinese and Japanese citizens commonly use rice powder to make their faces white. Eyebrows are shaved off, teeth are painted gold or black, and henna dyes are applied to stain hair and faces. 1000 BCE : Grecians whiten their complexion with chalk or lead face powder and fashion crude lipstick out of ochre clays laced with red iron.

18. COSMETICS IN COMMON ERA(CE):- 100 : In Rome, people put barley flour and butter on their pimples and sheep fat and blood on their fingernails for polish. In addition, mud baths come into vogue, and some Roman men dye their hair blonde. 300-400 : Henna is used in India both as a hair dye and in mehndi , an art form in which complex designs are painted on the hands and feet using a paste made from the henna plant , especially before a Hindu wedding. Henna is also used in some North African cultures.

19. COSMETIC IN MIDDLE AGE:- 1200 : Perfumes are first imported to Europe from the Middle East as a result of the Crusades

20. 1300: In Elizabethan England, dyed red hair comes into fashion. Society women wear egg whites over their faces to create the appearance of a paler complexion . Some people believe, however, that cosmetics blocked proper circulation and therefore pose a health threat.

21. RENAISSANCE COSMETICS:- 1400-1500: Italy and France emerge as the main centers of cosmetics manufacturing in Europe, and only the aristocracy has access . Arsenic is sometimes used in face powder instead of lead . The modern notion of complex scent-making evolves in France . Early fragrances are amalgams of naturally occurring ingredients . Later, chemical processes for combining and testing scents surpass their arduous and labor -intensive predecessors

22. 1500-1600: European women often attempt to lighten their skin using a variety of products, including white lead paint. Queen Elizabeth I of England is one well-known user of white lead, with which she creates a look known as “the Mask of Youth.” Blonde hair rises in popularity as it is considered angelic. Mixtures of black sulfur , alum, and honey are painted onto the hair and lighten with sun exposure.

23. 19th AND EARLY 20th CENTURY GLOBAL COSMETICS DEVELOPMENTS:- 1800 : Zinc oxide becomes widely used as a facial powder, replacing the previously used deadly mixtures of lead and copper . One such mixture, Ceruse, which is made from white lead, is later discovered to be toxic and blamed for health problems including facial tremors, muscle paralysis, and even death.

24. They are applied topically as cosmetics, but contain ingredients that influence the skin’s biological function. Cosmeceuticals improve appearance, but they do so by delivering nutrients necessary for healthy skin. Desirable features of cosmeceutical agents are efficacy, safety, formulation stability, novelty, and patent protection, metabolism within skin and inexpensive manufacture.

25. Even though some products claim to be unique botanical extracts or containing some rare ingredients with magic antiaging properties, most of the cosmeceutical formulations use fundamental ingredients such as peptides, retinol, coenzyme Q- 10, ceramides , alpha lipoic acid, alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, aloe vera , panthenol , kinetin and vitamins A, C,

26. 1900: In Edwardian Society, pressure increases on middle-aged women to appear youthful while acting as hostesses. As a result, cosmetics use increases, but is not yet completely popularized . Beauty salons rise in popularity, though -patronage of such salons is not widely accepted. Because many women do not wish to publicly admit they have assistance achieving their youthful appearances, they often enter salons through the back door .