Cosmetics for Eyes

Introduction to Cosmetics for eyes
Types of Eye Make – up, Eye Shadows, Eye Liners,
Eye Brow pencils
Presented by
J. Vinay Krishna
Department of Industrial Pharmacy

1. Contents: 2 Introduction Types of Eye Make – up Eye Shadows Eye Liners Eye Brow pencils References

2. Introduction Eye make-up are the ancient things which were used from the olden days. In olden days Egyptian womens used “ Kohl ” as well “ Malachit e ”. Indian womens used “ tsocco ” for their eye lids. Where Japanese and Chinese women used “ Pervian bark ” for preparing eye make – up. In modern times like now a days eye make – up became essential in the facial make – up’s. 3

3. 4 Where as Eye is a very sensitive organ. Therefore cosmetics used in the eye area should be tested for their harmlessness.

4. There are types of Eye make – up Eye – Shadow Eye – Liners Eye brow pencils Mascara 5 Types of Eye Make – up

5. Eye – Shadow Eye shadows are those used to give a background effect to the eye. There are various shades in the market. In these there are conventional shades and very light shades or transluscent shades are available. In these eye shadows there are glittering metallic particles are used silver and gold effects. Pearlescent pigments like bismuth oxychloride or mica coated with titanium dioxide may also be used for glittering effect. 6

6. Types of Eye – Shadows Cream Eye – Shadow Stick Eye – Shadow Liquid Eye – Shadow Powder Eye – Shadow 7

7. Cream Eye – Shadow Cream eye shadow comes in a creamy base that gives richer texture and is quite blendable into the skin. It can be used on eyelid alone as an eye shadow or provide a base for powder eye shadow to make the colour pop. Liquefying cream is prepared with fats and waxes. 8

8. Formulation 9 Ingredients % Petroleum jelly 47.5 Liquid lanolin 4.5 Bees wax 4.5 Microcrystalline wax 8.5 Isopropyl myristate 35.0 Ingredients % Bees wax 47.5 Spermaceti 4.5 Liquid lanolin 4.5 Microcrystalline wax 8.5 Isopropyl myristate 35.0

9. It is manufactured by mixing pigments first Preparation of Cream Eye Shadows 10 Blend this pigment mixture with petroleum jelly in roller mill Melt other fatty materials in a pan and then blend The pigment mass transferred into molten mass and then stirred well The product is filled into container while hot Alternatively, pigments can be dispersed in molten fats and waxes and the product can be passed through roller mill to ensure thorough distribution of colours A second mixing can be done before filling into containers

10. Stick Eye Shadows Stick Eye shadow functions will be same as the anhydrous cream. Formulation and method of preparation will be same the Lipsticks. The base should be thixotropic so that it is evenly applied without being greasy. 11

11. Formula 12 Ingredients % Castor oil 42.0 Mineral oil 6.0 Hydrogenated cotton seed oil 6.0 Ceresin 25.0 Carnauba wax 5.0 Titanium dioxide 9.0 Iron oxide (ochre shade ) 4.0 Iron oxide (sienna shade ) 3.0 Preservatives & anti – oxidants q.s

12. Preparation of Stick Eye Shadow Colour Dispersion: Though the pigments meant for manufacture of lipsticks are available in fine powder, but small particles of colour usually form agglomerates. For a good preparation, agglomerates must be broken down. This can be achieved with a variety of mills. E.g., Ball mill, Roller mill, Colloid mill. 13

13. First solution of bromo acids are prepared and kept aside. Preparation of Stick Eye Shadows 14 Lake colours are dispersed separately in a suitable quantity of oil to make a paste. Then passed through roller mill. If the formula contains titanium dioxide, it is treated same way as lake colours . Lower melting fatty acids are mixed first followed by higher. After addition of higher melting point, the colour mix should not be milled. Colour Dispersion:

14. For batch processing the equipment made up of jacketted kettle made up of aluminium , stainless steel, tinned copper is used. Mixing 15 The kettle is heated with steam or water. The material after milling is transferred to the kettle and heated with steam or water. Overheating and rapid stirring should be avoided. After mixture is completely melted and blended, perfume is added. Next the mixture is passed through the mesh and transferred to moulds or storage containers.

15. Moulds are made up of metals like brass, aluminium . Moulding : 16 Cleaned two halves are joined together with clamps. Molten mixture is run on to the seat of the mould. Excess material should be removed and the moulds are transferred to chilled metallic plate. Overcooling should be avoided. Moulds are then filled into containers.

16. Liquid Eye Shadows Pigments can be dispersed in a mixture of oils or in a liquid emulsion. in such products, pigments generally settle. Therefore the label of such preparations must carry instructions to shake well before use. 17

17. Formula 18 Ingredients % Mineral oil 60.0 Corn oil 18.0 Isopropyl myristate 22.0 Pigments q.s . Preservatives q.s .

18. 19 Ingredients % Sulphated cetyl alcohol 2.0 Sorbitan mono- oleate 0.5 Propylene glycol 6.0 Methyl cellulose 1.5 Alcohol 10.0 Water 100.0 Pigments q.s . Preservatives q.s .

19. Pigments are mixed with a part of oil to form a pourable paste Preparation of Liquid Eye Shadows 20 Then oil is added to the mixture Stirred and filled into containers

20. Powdered Eye Shadow Powder Eye – Shadow can be prepared either a loose powder or compressed powder. This powder form can be easily applied. When you apply these they do not form any lines on your Eyes. 21

21. Formula 22 Ingredients % Magnesium myristate 40.0 Talc 45.0 Titanium dioxide 15.0 Ingredients % Talc 40.0 Pigment 12.0 Pearlescent pigment 48.0

22. The powdered ingredients are passed through the coarse screen to remove forign particles Preparation of Powdered Eye Shadows 23 All screened powders except colours are added in a stainless steel ribbon blender mixed for 1 – 3 hours Blend colour & white base in ribbon blender mixed until full colour is developed The colour extenders is pulverized and screened & compared with standard The white base prepared in step 1 & required quantity of colour extender is blended for several hours. When full colour is developed, the mixture is pulverized, screened and mixed properly and compared with standard.

23. Perfume is blended by absorbing it on the pulverized absorbents like Calcium carbonate, Magnesium carbonate. 24 If the formulation is to be manufactured in cake form, binders are added and mixing is continued until the uniform distribution of binders. After thoroughly mixing the binder the powder is passed for compression. Before compression the powder is agitated to remove air entrapper in it. Powder is compressed into tablets with the help of compacting machines. Commonly used compacting machines are hydrolic type and ram type. Ram type are used when high speed is not required.

24. Eye Liners Eye – liners are used to applying eye – shadow which gives a tremendous appearance for the Eye. They are used on the Eye lids, particularly they are applied on the upper eyelid these can be formulated in the various forms of crayons, pencils, liquids or cakes. There are many types Crayons Pencils Liquid or Cake 25

25. Where as the Eye liners are generally not manufactured by the cosmetic manufacturers. These are formulated in the form of crayons, pencils, liquids or cakes. These are available in many shades. 26 Crayon Eye Liner Cake Eye Liner Pencil Eye Liner

26. Formula 27 Ingredients % Polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP) 2.0 Magnesium aluminium silicate 2.0 Glycerin 4.5 Lanolin 0.5 Diethylene glycol monostearate 3.0 Sodium lauryl sulphate 1.0 Pigments 12.0 Water 100.0 Preservatives q.s .

27. Disperse Magnesium aluminium silicate in a part of water to produce a suspension of liquid consistency 28 Dissolve PVP in it and heat gently Add this to molten stearate and lanolin and stir Dissolve preservatives in glycerin and disperse pigments Add dispersed pigments to the mix Finally dissolve sodium lauryl sulphate in small quantity of water and mix Preparation of Eye Liners

28. Eyebrow Pencils Eyebrow pencils are used either to accentuate the natural eyebrow line or to modify it after plucking. These eyebrow pencils are manufactured in types like crayon type or ordinary lead pencil type. These eyebrow pencils are manufactured in many shades like black through brownish black and brown to blue. 29

29. Formula 30 Ingredients % Bees wax 25.0 Ozokerite 25.0 Butyl Stearate 8.0 Lanolin 2.0 Castor oil 25.0 Mineral oil 15.0 Perfume & anti – oxidant q.s .

30. Mascara Mascara has been used from the ancient times Egyptian women used “ Kohl” for darkening their eye lashes. These were mixed with an oil and applied to the eyebrows and under the eyelids. Where as mascara is a black colour preparation which is used to apply for lashes or eyebrows. It claims that dark eyelashes and lengthy eyelashes enhance brightness and expression 31

31. Characteristics of Mascara It should be easy to apply. Smudging should not be there. It should not cause eyelashes to stick together. It should dry rapidly but should not dry rapidly. It should be non – toxic and non – irritant. 32

32. Types of Mascara Cake Mascara Cream Mascara Liquid Mascara Eye Makeup removers 33

33. Cake Mascara Mascara is a cosmetic used to improve the beauty of the eye and also darken, lengthen, thicken and define eyelashes. It is most commonly used eye cosmetic. 34 This is the most convenient and popular form of mascara. It is prepared with beeswax and petrolatum along with proper colour .

34. Formula 35 Ingredients % Carbon black 55.0 Coconut oil sodium soap 22.5 Palm oil sodium soap 22.5 Ingredients % Triethanolamine Stearate 55.0 Carnauba wax 24.0 Paraffin wax 12.5 Lanolin anhydrous 4.5 Carbon black 3.5 Preservatives q.s .

35. Cake mascara includes waxes, dispersion of pigments and milling of the mix in roller miller 36 The grounded materila is remelted and poured into moulds with slow stirring Preparation of Cake Mascara

36. Cream Mascara Cream mascara can be prepared by the milling pigments into a vanishing type cream base. Alternatively the oil soluble dye may be used which may require a wetting agent. 37

37. Formula 38 Ingredients % Stearic acid 12.0 Isopropyl myristate 6.0 Glyceryl monostearate (Self Emulsifying ) 5.5 Gylcerin 5.5 Triethanolamine 3.5 Water 57.5 Pigments 10.0 Preservatives q.s .

38. Cream mascara can be manufactured by the milling pigments into a cream base 39 in case mascara has to be prepared from oil soluble dye it is necessary to include a wetting agent to lower the surface tension Without wetting agent colour will not adhere to the brush which is used for applying mascara Coloured pigments can be incorporated into the base just after completion of emulsification Stirring is continues till the product is cooled Any entrapped air is allowed to escape. Then the product is filled into tubes Preparation of Cream Mascara

39. Liquid Mascara Liquid mascara has been available for long time. But did not become popular till the development of a container with a small diameter brush integrated into screw – on – lid. Where as this dispenser is easy to carry in bag. Earlier preparations of liquid mascara were prepared by suspending pigments in mucilage. 40

40. Formula 41 Ingredients % Gum tragacanth 0.3 Alcohol 10.0 Water 82.0 Lamp black 7.7 Preservatives q.s . Ingredients % Rosin (10% solution in alcohol) 3.5 Castor oil 2.5 Lamp black 12.0 Alcohol 82.0

41. Resin is dissolved in alcohol with strring 42 Carbon black is made into pourable paste with castor oil and alcoholic solution of resin Stirring is continued till it get mixed The product is then filled into dispensers Preparation of Liquid Mascara

42. Eye Makeup Remover Eye makeup remover is a low viscosity fatty minerals such as mineral oil alone or in combination with other oils and / or fatty acids. These products are usually sold as cotton pads saturated with oil. As the tissues oils which are applied around the eye and are removed with tissue paper. To that emollients such as lanolin, lecithin are also added. 43

43. Formula 44 Ingredients % Light mineral oil 80.0 Isopropyl myristate 20.0 Ingredients % Olive oil 15.0 Lanolin 3.0 Isopropyl myristate 10.0 Isopropyl palmitate 20.0 Castro oil 52.0 Perfume (non - irritant ) q.s . Anti – oxidant q.s .

44. Preparation are mixture of fats and oils which are completely miscible 45 All the materials are placed together in a mixing vessel and stirred Anti – oxidant if any is dissolved in oil before mixing If perfume is added/used should be non – irritant and oil soluble and should be mixed with a part of oil and should be blended in the mix Then Transformed into containers Preparation of Eye Make – up Remover

45. References Sharma PP. Cosmetics: Formulation, Manufacturing & Quality Control. Vandama Publications; 2018. Baki G, Alexander KS. Introduction to cosmetic formulation and technology. John Wiley & Sons; 2015 Apr 13. Butler H, editor. Poucher’s perfumes, cosmetics and soaps. Springer Science & Business Media; 2013 Jun 29. 46

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