Cosmetics STRUCTURE OF SKIN and skin related problems like dry skin, acne pigmentation

cosmetics

1. Cosmetics-structure of skin and skin related problems SUBMITTED BY SUJITHA MARY M PHARM ST JOSEPH COLLEGE OF PHARMACY

2. CONTENTS STRUCTURE OF SKIN DRY SKIN ACNE PIGMENTATON WRINKLES PRICKLY HEAT BODY ODOUR

3. Cosmetics –Definition As per EU cosmetics is defined as “any substance or preparations intended to be palced in contact with various external part of human body or with the teeth and mucus membrane of the oral cavity with a view mainly to clean them , perfuming, changing their appearance correcting body odour or protecting them or keeping them in good condition”

4. SKIN Skin is the largest organ of the body, accounting for about 15% of the total adult body weight. It protects against external particles. It prevents excessive water loss from the body. It helps in Thermoregulation.

5. STRUCTURE OF SKIN 1. Epidermis (Outer layer responsible for colour) 2. Dermis (Contains hair follicle & sweat glands) 3. Hypodermis (Made of fat & connective tissue

6. EPIDERMIS • Outer layer of skin, acts as barrier to infections. • Made of keratinized stratified squamous epithelial cells. • Cells are formed by mitosis in basal layer, then get pushed into more superficial layers of strata. • It is a vascular layer that depends on blood vessel in underlying dermis for its nutrition

7. Epidermis The epidermis contains 5 major layers:- 1. Stratum basale /Stratum germinativum 2. Stratum spinosum 3. Stratum granulosum 4. Stratum lucidum 5. Stratum corneum

8. DERMIS Middle layer of skin, that contains nerves, hair roots, sweat glands, oil glands & blood vessels. Made of dense irregular connective tissue having collagen & fibers, separated from epidermis by basement membrane. Highly vascular & highly innervated. Contains sensory receptors for touch, pressure, vibration, pain & temparature .

9. Hypodermis Present below dermis. Deep to skin & also known as Subcutaneous tissue. Consists layer of fats & adipose tissue. Main cells present are Fibroblast, Adipose tissue, Macrophages. Functions as energy source by storing fat.

10. DRY SKIN • Low level of sebum present. • Usually feels tight and uncomfortable. • Chapping and cracking are signs of extremely dry, dehydrated skin. • 10-20% of water content in stratum corneum is required to keep skin soft and pliable. • Barrier alteration cause increase in Transepidermal water loss. • This result in drying out, precipitating dry skin condition. • Feels like taut, rough and itchy

11. Causes of Dry skin Weather Central heating and air conditioning, fireplaces Tight clothing or compression Harsh soaps and detergents Sun exposure Aging

12. TREATMENT 1)Cleansing •Apply moisturizers and or emollients while the skin is still moist; apply liberally once a day at a minimum and reapply when required. •When emollients and moisturizers are insufficient, the use of ceramides may be considered. •A barrier cream may be useful for hands and feet. •When scaling is present, consider a keratolytic such as a urea-based moisturizer, salicylic acid, lactic acid, or glycolic acid for mildly, moderately, and severely dry skin. Consider a higher concentration keratolytic product on hands and feet.

13. TREATMENT 2) Skin Care Products FORMULATION OF COLD CREAM White bees wax - 10g Liquid paraffin - 30g Borax – 0.5g Rose oil – 0.1ml Purified water – 10ml

14. PROCEDURE •Weigh the required quantity of white beeswax & liquid paraffin and melt in a china dish by heating on a water bath upto 70ºC . •In a glass beaker, dissolve borax in water and heat upto 70ºC •When both oily and aqueous phases reaches the same temperature (70ºC) , gradually add borax solution to the melted beeswax drop by drop with constant stirring. •Stir continuously until it becomes cool.When the temperature lowers to 40-45ºC , incorporate rose oil and mix uniformly , until a homogeneous semi-solid mass is obtained.

15. ACNE •Acne, also known as acne vulgaris , is a long-term skin disease that occurs when hair follicles are clogged with dead skin cells and oil from the skin. •It is characterized by blackheads or whiteheads, pimples, oily skin, and possible scarring. • It primarily affects areas of the skin with a relatively high number of oil glands, including the face, upper part of the chest, and back

16. CAUSES •Gene •Hormonal activity, such as occurs during menstrual cycles and puberty •Infections against anaerobic bacterial species Propionibacterium acnes •High-glycemic-load diets •Stress •Several medications like lithium, hydantoin , isoniazid , glucocorticoids , iodides, bromides, and testosterone. 10

17. ACNE LIFE CYCLE Stage 1:- Clogged pores Cell lining pores shed & mix with excess sebum produced by sebaceous glands forming a plug, leads to clogged pores. Stage 2:- Bacteria Accumulated sebum & dead cells attract the bacteria that is naturally found in skin, which feeds on oil and multiply rapidly inside pores. Stage 3:- Inflammation This bacterial overgrowth triggers the natural inflammatory response causing swelling & redness. This can ultimately lead to discoloration & scarring.

18. TREATMENT (a)Topical retinoids •Topical retinoids are mainly used in patients with non-inflammatory comedones , in combination with other topical and systemic drugs in mild, moderate and severe inflammatory acne and also as a maintenance treatment when oral treatment is stopped. •The following retinoid are used today in the topical management of acne: tretinoin , isotretinoin , adapalene , tazarotene and retinaldehyde .

19. (b)Antibiotics •Topical antibiotics are generally used for mild to moderate inflammatory acne. They have activity against P. acnes, and therefore act on the surface of the skin to reduce the stimulus for inflammation of the lesions •The most popular topical antibiotics used in acne treatment are erythromycin and clindamycin (c) Benzoyl Peroxide • Benzoyl peroxide is a topical disinfectant, originally employed as a peeling agent for treating acne . • Benzoyl peroxide has proven bactericidal activity against P. acnes by releasing free radical oxygen, which degrades the bacterial proteins

20. (d) Azelaic Acid • Azelaic acid is a natural dicarboxylic acid that inhibits protein synthesis of the P. acnes species •It is an effective agent because it has bacteriostatic , anti-inflammatory, antioxidant

21. PIGMENTATION Pigmentation disorders are disturbances of human skin color, either loss or reduction, which may be related to loss of melanocytes or the inability of melanocytes to produce melanin or transport melanosomes correctly. Pigmentation is the colouring of an individual’s skin. The colour of skin appears normal when a person is healthy. A person’s skin may change colour and grow darker ( hyperpigmentation ) or lighter ( hypopigmentation ) because of illness and injury.

22. PIGMENTATION DISORDER 1) Hyperpigmentation It is the darkening of an area of skin or nails caused by increased melanin.One of the leading causes of hyperpigmentation is exposure to sunlight. 2) Hypopigmentation It is the loss of skin colour which is caused by melanin depletion. 3) Vitiligo Vitiligo is an autoimmune disease in which there is an appearance of smooth white patches on the skin occur all over the body.

23. 4)Albinism It is a rare inherited disorder which is caused by the absence of an enzyme that produces melanin. Pigmentation is completely lost as a result in eyes, skin and hair. 5) De-pigmentation It is the lightening of the skin or loss of pigment 16

24. TREATMENT OF PIGMENTATION DISORDERS 1)Hydroquinone •HQ affects not only the formation, melanization , and degradation of melanosomes , but it also affects the membranous structures of melanocytes and eventually causes necrosis of whole melanocytes . •HQ preparations are commonly used in the treatment of melasma at concentrations varying from 2 to 5% applied once daily

25. 2) Azelaic acid • Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring, nonphenolic , saturated, nine-carbon dicarboxylic acid that competitively inhibits tyrosinase . •It has also been used to treat hyperpigmentary disorders like melasma . 17 3)Glycolic acid •Glycolic acid is an alpha- hydroxy acid that is usually combined with other agents at a concentration of 5-10% for its skin-lightening property.

26. 4) Arbutin • Arbutin , the beta-D- glucopyranoside derivative of hydroquinone, is a naturally occurring plant product which has been used successfully in the treatment of hyperpigmentary disorders. Arbutin acts by the inhibition of tyrosinase , thereby decreasing melanin formation. 5) Niacinamide • Niacinamide ( nicotinamide ), the biologically active amide form of niacin (vitamin B3), can reduce pigmentation by reversibly preventing the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to the keratinocytes

27. Formulation of hypopigmentation cream Paraffin oil and coconut oil Cetomacrogol 1000 Cetostearyl alcohol Glycerin Lemon oil Distilled Water Extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra

28. PROCEDURE Preparation of base •Water in oil (W/O) cream was prepared by the addition of aqueous phase to the oily phase with continuous agitation. To prepare base; oily phase that consisted of paraffin oil, beeswax, coconut oil and surfactants ( cetomacrogol 1000 and cetosteatyl alcohol), is heated up to 75°C±1°C. Aqueous phase consisting of glycerin and water is heated to the same temperature. Preparation

29. Preparation of formulation • The formulation was also prepared by same method; the only difference is the addition of Glycyrrhiza glabra extract (active drug) that is added in aqueous phase consisting of glycerin and water. Each formulation consists of preserved water ( propyl paraben 0.02% w/w and methyl paraben 0.1% w/w) to 100g. The formulations were neutralized by Triethanolamine to pH=5.5 at 25°C.

30. WRINKLES A wrinkle, also known as a rhytide , is a fold, ridge or crease in the skin . Skin wrinkles typically appear as a result of aging processes such as glycation , habitual sleeping positions, loss of body mass, or temporarily, as the result of prolonged immersion in water. Age wrinkling in the skin is promoted by habitual facial expressions, aging, sun damage, smoking, poor hydration, and various other factors.

31. TREATMENT 1)The fillers : •The filler is a biological or syntactical mean to inject in hypoderm or in derma tissue, so to implement or enhance a limited area of body (usually face) for aesthetic purpose. •The used substrates are bovine collagen, autologous collagen, cadaveric collagen. 2)Peelings : •Peeling is a medical treatment consisting in a micro-abrasion of epidermis or the superficial and medium derma, by means of chemical or physical agents. •The peels used in these treatments are pyruvic acid, salicylic acid, retinoic acid, tricloroacetic acid (T.C.A.) at 10%-20%.

32. 3) Botulinum toxin • Botulinum toxin injection for treatment of facial wrinkles is one of the most common entry procedures for clinicians seeking to incorporate aesthetic treatments into their practice. • Botulinum toxin is a potent neurotoxin that inhibits release of acetylcholine at the neuromuscular junction. 4)Lasers •The cosmetic use of the laser represents a valid non-invasive intervention for the aged skin. The used lasers are the CO2 laser. •They are indicated for treatments of aesthetic lesions, for resurfacing, for non-ablative rejuvenating and for hair removal. Other treatments are Dermabrasion , surgery ,Ultrasound therapy

33. PRICKLY HEAT • It is aslo called as heat rash/ miliaria . • It is itchy inflammation of superficial layers of skin, typically with rash of small vesicles, common in hot humid whether. • They are red bumps on a skin & an itchy or prickly feeling on skin. • Heat rash is common in summer months & particularly in humid climates. • These conditions are usually self-limited and resolves in hours to a few days without treatment. • Any body part can be affected, majorly face, neck, back, abdomen, elbow folds, groin.

34. CAUSES • It is caused by trapped sweat, when the body is hot the sweat glands get activated to produce sweat on skin. • When body kept in warm state, the constant sweat production can overload sweat glands, this can cause the sweat ducts to get blocked by trapping sweat in deep layers of skin with help of bacterias . • This trapped sweat irritates the skin by forming the rash on it. • Most common trigger for prickly heat is exposure to heat for long time.

35. TYPES 1. Clear ( Miliaria crystallina ) • It sometimes called as miliaria sudamina . This happens when the blockage of sweat ducts occur at closer surface of skin. The rash is like tiny clear spots & may look like beads of sweat. 2. Red ( Miliaria rubra ) • It is a most common type. • It is caused when the blockage of the sweat ducts occur at deeper part of the outer layer of skin (Epidermis). • Crops of tiny red bumpy spots develop. • The rash may occur within days of coming into hot climate. However the rash doesn’t appear until weeks or months have passed in hot climate. •

36. 3)White/Yellow ( Miliaria pustulosa ) • In this type the bumps on the skin become infected with the bacteria living on the skin surface. The fluid inside the bumps contain pus. 4). Deep ( Miliaria profunda ) • It is uncommon and caused when the blockage of sweat ducts occurs at the level of middle layer of skin (Dermis). It typically occurs in people who live in a hot climate who repeatedly had miliaria rubra

37. BODYODOUR • It is perceived unpleasant smell that body can give when bacteria present on skin breaks down the sweat into acid. • Body odour caused by combination of sweat & bacteria, normally found in skin.

38. CAUSES Emotional factors like anxiety, stress, embracement leads to excessive sweat secretion. Illness & medications can also cause excessive sweating. Hereditary problems

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