Crepe weave

about crepe weave and satin weave

1. CREPE AND SATIN WEAVE By Ashutosh Gupta

2. INTRODUCTION Crep e weave s constitut e a n usefu l variet y o f simpl e weave s an d ar e als o know n a s “crape ” o r “oatmeal ” fabric s du e t o thei r pebbl y o r crinkle d (rough ) surface . Th e siz e o f th e pebble s an d thei r arrangemen t on th e fabri c surfac e determin e th e typ e o f crep e fabric. Th e crep e effec t ca n b e achieve d eithe r b y th e us e o f crep e yarn s (highl y twisted ) o r a crep e weave , an d sometime s b y specia l proces s o f finishing , i.e. , embossing.

3. Method s for the constructio n o f crep e weaves- Constructio n o f crep e weave s upo n satee n base Combinatio n o f a floatin g weav e wit h plai n threads B y reversin g a smal l motif Insertio n o f on e weav e ove r another.

4. Construction of crepe weaves upon sateen base I n thi s cas e th e bas e weav e i s a sateen , upo n whic h a chose n weav e i s inserte d t o ge t th e irregula r effects. Thi s i s show n i n Fig . 7.1. A t Fig . A , i s show n th e bas e satee n weav e an d a t Fig . B , i s show n th e crep e effec t obtaine d by insertio n o f a twil l weav e (3/ 1 an d 1/3 ) upo n th e satee n base . Th e satee n weav e ha s bee n marke d wit h a differen t notatio n i n orde r t o identif y th e bas e weave.

5. C ombinatio n o f a floatin g weav e wit h p lai n threads I n thi s metho d a floatin g weav e i s inserte d upo n a plai n weav e t o ge t th e desire d crep e effec t a s show n in Fig.7.2 A t Fig . A , i s show n th e insertio n o f plai n weave . Th e arro w mark s indicat e th e boxe s wher e the floatin g weav e i s t o b e inserted.

6. B y reversin g o f a s mal l motif In this method a simple motif can be chosen and reversed at intervals within the design repeat to get an irregula r effec t a s show n i n Fig . 7.3 . At A, is shown a simple motif and at B, is shown the crepe designs obtained by reversal of the motif at regular intervals.

7. I nsertio n o f on e weav e ove r anot h er In this method two different weaves are chosen and are inserted over one another to get the desired crepe effect as shown in the Fig. 7.4. In order to produce an irregular effect, at least one of the weaves should be irregular and would be better if both are irregular. Sateen and sateen derivatives are generally used in this method . In Fig. A, is shown a sateen derivative and in Fig. B, is shown a 4 end sateen. In Fig. C, is shown the crepe effect obtained by the insertion of A over B.

8. Satin fabrics

9. Thumb rules for making satin weave Move can not be one or less than one of the satin no. Move no. should not be factor of satin no. There should not be any common factor between move no. & satin no.

10. Thank you