Fabric barre

1. Fabric Sample

2. Fabric Barré
CAUSE % of DEFECTS
Fiber 70%
Yarn Count Variation 10%
Twist Variation 10%
Hairiness 10%

3. Fabric Barré due to
1.Micronaire
2.Maturity/Fineness
3.Fluorescence

4. Micronaire
Causes of Barré :
•> 0.2 Difference in micronaire
•> 0.1 Change in average micronaire mix to
mix
•> 12% CV of Micronaire within mix
•Bales with same micronaire placed side by
side in mix

5. 3.8
3.9
4.0
4.1
4.2
4.3
4.4
4.5
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 91011121314
Mix Number
Micronaire
Acceptable Change in Micronaire
from Mix to Mix
Maximum ± .1

6. High Micronaire CV% in Mix
3.6
3.7
3.8
3.9
4.0
4.2
4.3
4.4
4.5
4.6
4.7
123456789101112131415161718192021222324
Bale Number
Micronaire
* Maximum CV 12%
Aug. 4.1 CV% 17.7*

7. Maturity & Fineness
Causes of Barré
•Blending cottons from different growth areas
•Blending cottons from different seed varieties
•Seasonal changes in cotton growth cycle
–Weather
–Insects
•Immature Fiber Content% (IFC%)
–White Speck Neps
–Carding Speeds

8. Knitted Fabric Sample:
3 Varieties, Same Mic, Same Growing Area3 Varieties, Same Mic, Same Growing Area
Bale Number
33 22 11

9. HVI Bale Data:
Length & Micronaire Analysis
0
1
2
3
4
5
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
Bale 1 Bale 2 Bale 3
Micronaire Length Strength
Micronaire & Length (in) Strength (g/tex)

10. Uster Yarn Data (Ne 26)
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Bale 1 Bale 2 Bale 3
Strength Elongation
Strength (grams) Elongation (%)

11. AFIS Maturity Module: Maturity
Analysis
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
180
200
Bale 1 Bale 2 Bale 3
Immature Fiber Content Fineness
Immature Fiber Content (%) FIneness (mtex)

12. White Speck Neps
Fabric AFabric A Fabric BFabric B Fabric CFabric C

14. Fabric White Speck Defects:
AFIS Maturity Module
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
0
0.1
0.2
0.3
0.4
0.5
0.6
0.7
0.8
0.9
1
Fabric A Fabric B Fabric C
Immature Fiber Content Maturity Ratio
Immature Fiber Content (%) Maturity Ratio

15. Card Mat & Sliver Variation:
AFIS Maturity Analysis
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
Card 7 Card 8 Card 9 Card 11 Card 12 Card 13
Card Mat Sliver
Immature Fiber Content (%)

16. Variation in Card Sliver:
AFIS Maturity Module
0
5
10
15
Card 1 Card 19 Card 25 Card 35 Card 49 Card 51
Immature FIber Content (%)

17. Fluorescence
Causes of Barré
•Variation in average UV readings between bale mixes
•CV% in UV readings within a mix
•End-of-season cotton crop changes
•Outside storage of cotton bales
•Mixing high and low UV bales
•UV readings increase over time in warehouse

18. Fluorescence
Solutions
•UV test every bale before making mix
•Maximum 10 points difference of UV
readings within mix
•Maximum change in UV average 1 point
between mixes
•Set up category groups for UV

19. Variation of Bale UV Within Mix
0 4 8 12 16 20 24
65
70
75
80
85
90
95
100
Bale Number
UV
Average 80
Max ±5

20. Variations in Average UV
from Mix to Mix
01234567891011121314151617
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
Mix Number
UV
Maximum Change
±1 in Average