FABRIC STRUCTURE

IN this all weaves are described

1. M K BANSAL
NITRA TECHNICAL CAMPUS
Ghaziabad
Basic Weaves

2. Inrepresenting
weaveongraphpaper
eachdistancebetween
thetwoverticallines
representsonewarp
threadandthedistance
betweentwohorizontal
linesrepresentsone
weftthread.
Smallsquaresillustratestheplace
wherecertainwarpthreadsmeetswith
certainweftthread.Thusthesquare
marked‘a’willindicatetheinterlacement
ofwarpthreadno.1with1
st
pick,mark
‘b’willindicatetheinterlacementofwarp
threadno.2with1
st
pick.likewisemark
‘g’willindicatetheinterlacementofwarp
threadno.3with2
nd
pickandsoon.
Representation of woven structure on graph paper:

3. Different kinds of graph paper used in designing
The proper selection of graph paper is ascertained by the no. of warp and
weft threads required per inch in the finished fabric. For example a fabric
of 80 EPI and 120 PPI will require a graph of corresponding proportion or
as 80 is to 120 = 8x12, similarly EPI= 80 & PPI= 60 will require a 8x6 graph
paper.

4. Indicationofanykindinacertain
squareinsidetherepeatofthe
weaveuponthegraphpapermean
warpup,andsquaresleftempty
insidetherepeatoftheweaveon
graphpapermeanweftupinits
correspondingpositioninthe
fabric.
Warp up
Weft up

5. Basic Fabric Structure ( Weaves)
Therearethreebasicweaves.
Plain Weave
Twill Weave
Satin Weave
All other Structures are a variation or a combination of these weaves.

6. Plainweaveisthemostbasicofthreefundamentaltypesofweaves.Itisstrong
andhard-wearing,usedforfashionandfurnishingfabrics.
Inplainweave,thewarpandweftarealignedsotheyformasimplecriss-cross
pattern.Eachweftthreadcrossesthewarpthreadsbygoingoverone,thenunder
thenext,andsoon.Thenextweftthreadgoesunderthewarpthreadsthatits
neighborwentover,andviceversa.
Termsastabby,Calico,alpaca,andtaffetaare
appliedtoplaincloth.
Plain WeaveDescription:

7. Plain Weave

9. Fabrics produced on plain weave base
Some examples of plain weave fabrics with different textures are
Chiffon
Taffeta
Organdy
Lawn
Voile
Muslin
Plain sheeting
Plaids
Seersuckers
fill-a fill
Cotton Checks

10. 1.Threadswhicharedifferentincolor,material,thicknessortwistare
combined,
2.Thenumberofthreadsperdentofthereed,orpicksinagivenspaceis
varied.
3.Theendsarebroughtfromtwoormorewarpbeamswhichare
differentlytensioned.
4.Bymeansofspeciallyshapedreedswhichrisesandfallsthethreadsare
causedtoformZig-Zaglinesinthecloth.
5.Bytheprocessofdyeing,printingandfinishing.
Fancy effects produced with the plain weave:
There are lot of methods of ornamenting and varying
the structure of plain weave.

11. Plain Check & Stripes

12. Twill weave
Twillweaveproducediagonallinesin
thecloth.Insimpletwillspointof
intersectionmoveoneoutwardand
oneupwardonsucceedingpicks.
Twillweavecanbemadeonany
numberofthreadsthatexceedstwo.
Twilllinesareformedonbothsides
oftheclothanddirectionofthelines
mayberightorleft.
Twillweavesenablesgreaterweight,
closersetting,andbetterdraping
qualitythanplainweaveinthecloth.

13. 2 by 1 twill

14. Popular Twill fabrics
Cashmere
Denim
Serge
blanket
Gabardine
Drill

15. Denim 3/1 Twill weave

16. Satin & sateen Weave
Thetermsatinisusedforwarpface
structureandsateenisusedforweftface
structure.Inpuresateenandsatinweaves
thereisoneinterlacingforeachwarpyarn
andonlyoneinterlacingforeachweftyarn
ineachrepeatoftheweave.Thisresultin
productionoffabricswithamaximum
degreeofsmoothnessandlusterandwithout
anyprominentweaveeffect.
Buckskin,Venetian,anddamaskarefabrics
madeonsatinstructures

17. satin thread interlacement5 shaft Warp face
satin Weave

18. 5 shaft Weft face
sateen Weave
sateen thread interlacement

19. 4x4 Matt

20. Plain weave derivative
Matt,basketorHopsackweave:
Basketweaveismadebyextendingtheplain
weavebothverticallyandhorizontallysothatin
bothdirectionstherearetwoormorethreads
workingtogetherinthesameorder.Whenthe
groupsofyarnsareequal,thebasketweaveis
termedregular,otherwiseitistermedirregular.
Thetwobytwo(2x2)basketweaveisthemost
common.Inthisweaveasgivenbelowthewarp
yarnsinpairsinterlaceinplainweaveorderwith
theweftyarnsinpairs.Theweaverepeatson
fourendsandfourpicks,andrequireonlytwo
healdframestomake.

24. Matt or Basket Weave
Regular 2x2 basket
Regular 3x3 basket
Regular 4x4 basket

25. Irregular 4x2 basketIrregular 3x2 basket

26. Rib Weaves
Ribweavesareusuallymadebyhavingtwoormorewarpyarns
together,inter-lacingasoneyarnwiththeindividualweftyarns,
ortwoormoreweftyarnstogether,interlacingasoneyarnwith
individualwarpyarns.Thegroupsofyarnsinterlaceinplain
weaveorderwiththesingleyarns.Fabricswitharibweaveare
reversibleunlessonesideismadethefacebyfinishingor
printing.
WarpRibWeave:
Warpribsareproduced
byextendingtheplain
weavevertically.
3x3
warp
rib
4x4
warp
rib

28. Ornamentingwarprib:
Thewarpribscanbe
emphasizedevenmore
stronglybytheuseof
alternatecoarseandfine
ends,slackandtight
ends,andThickandfine
picksasshowninFigure
A,B,andC
A B C
WeftRibWeave:
Weftribsareproduced
byextendingtheplain
weavehorizontally.
3x3 weft rib 4x4 weft rib

29. Twill weave
Twillweaveproducediagonallines
inthecloth.Twillweavecanbe
madeonanynumberofthreads
thatexceedstwo.Twilllinesare
formedonbothsidesofthecloth
anddirectionofthelinesmaybe
rightorleft.
2/1 Twill
(shifting warp wise)

30. Angle of inclination of twill weaves

32. Twill Angle:
Twillangleistheanglewhichisproducedbytwill
linewithrespecttothehorizontalline.
Thistwillangledependsonfollowingfactors.
1.RatiobetweenEPIandPPI.
2.Differencebetweenwarpandweftcount.
3.Rateofadvancementitinterlacementwarpand
weft.

34. Insimpletwillspointofintersectionmoveoneoutwardandone
upwardonsucceedingpicks.Twillweavesenablesgreater
weight,closersetting,andbetterdrapingqualitythanplain
weaveinthecloth.Denim,blanketandGabardinefabricsare
madeoftwillweavebasis.
2/2 Twill
Shifting warp wise

35. 4/4 Right hand Twill
4/4 Left hand Twill
4/1 warp face Twill
4/1 weft face Twill

36. Mixing of two Twill weaves
4/2 & 3/1 Twill
Mixing of three Twill weaves
4/4, 3/3, 2/2 Twill

37. Mixing of four Twill weaves
4/2, 3/1, 1/3, 2/4

38. Twill weave derivative
Zigzag or waved twill
Warp face & weft face & balanced twill
Steep or elongated twill
Herringbone twill
Reverse twill
Broken twill
Mixed twill
Combining twills –end to end pick to pick
Fancy twills
Transposed or re arranged twill
Diamond and diaper twill designs

39. Zigzag or waved twill –
The simplest forms of modified twill is the waved twill
achieved by reversing the direction of the twill at suitable intervals.
The reversal can occur either upon a warp direction in which case
horizontal wave is produced , or upon a weft pick which results in
a vertical weave or a zig-zageffect .
The horizontal wave effects are economically produced in
point drafts and good styles may be woven on few healds. The
vertical line effects, however mostly require dobby shedding motion,
because of comparatively large number of picks in the lifting plan.
Method-I Converting 3/3 Twill into zig-zag twill
1 2 3 4 5 6 5 4 3 2
In Horizontal direction In Vertical direction
2
3
4
5
6
5
4
3
2
1

40. Converting 4/4 Twill into zigzag Twill
Converting 3/1,1/3 Twill into zigzag Twill
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 7 6 5 4 3 2

41. Small zigzag of 2/2 twill
(one repeat)
Medium zigzag of 2/2 Twill
1 2 3 4 3 2
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 7 6 5 4 3 2
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15161514 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2
Large zigzag of 2/2 Twill

42. Herringbone Twill -
Thesetwills,alsodependuponthereversalofthe
directiontoachievethedesiredeffect.Thetwilldoesnot
cometoapointwhereitchangesthedirectionbutinstead
onetwilllineissaidtocutintotheotheratthepointof
reversal.Thefollowingdesignshowsconstructionof2and2
herringbonetwillwhichrunsfromlefttorightforthedesired
numberofends(8)whereuponthereversalofdirectiontakes
placebyintroducingonthe9
th
end,themarkwhichareexactly
oppositetothoseofthe8
th
end.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 910111213141516
Herringbone twill of 2/2 Twill Herringbone twill of 3/3 Twill
(16x4) (12x6)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

43. Herring bone Twill of 9 repeats of 4/4 Twill (48x24)
Herringbone Twill of 4/1,3/1 Twill (18x9)

44. Herring bone Zig-Zag

45. (b) Reverse Twill –
In this weave the number of threads in warp & weft of one
repeat remains same in the design . In the following design
one repeat of design has 8 threads in warp & weft. Reverse
twill design should have same number of threads in face &
back i.e. 2/2 ,3/3 , 4/4 etc.
2/2Reverse Twill 3/3 Reverse Twill 4/4 Reverse twill
(4x4)
(6x6)
(8x8)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 2 3 4 5 10 9 8 7 6
5x5 Regular Twill 5/5 Reverse Twill
(10x10) (10x10)

46. Broken Twill -It is produced by breaking a regular twill.
1 2 3 4 1 2 4 3
2/2 Regular Twill 2/2 Broken Twill
at a break of 2
1 2 3 4 5 6 1 2 3 6 5 4
3/3 Regular Twill 3/3 Broken Twill
at a break of 3
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 4 3 5 6 8 7 2 1 4 3 6 5 8 7
4/4 Regular Twill 4/4 Broken Twill at a break of2 4/4 Broken Twill at a break of2

47. 1 2 3 6 5 4 7 8 1 4 3 2 5 6 7 2 1 8 3 4 5 8 7 6
4/4 Broken Twill at a Break of 3 (24x8)
1 2 3 4 5 2 1 8 7 6 3 4 5 6 7 4 3 2 1 8 5 6 7 8 1 6 5 4 3 2 7 8 1 2 3 8 7 6 5 4
4/4 Broken Twill at a Break of 5 (40x8)

48. Mixed Twill –
This has been developed by combining the two regular twill designs.
This can be of two types. The first is warp mixed twill weave and
second is weft mixed twill weave. One twill say ‘A’ is first indicated
on the odd vertical spaces and to complete the design, twill ‘B’ is
indicated on the even vertical spaces . Each twill must be carried
out on 6 ends and picks and hence the design ‘C’ consist of 6
threads of ‘A’ and 6 threads of ‘B’ and thus repeats on 12 ends and
6 picks .
A B
C

53. Diamond Twill -
Diamond weave is symmetrical about their vertical and horizontal axes
which can be produced with the aid of point draft and vertical waved
twilled peg-plan.
True diamond shapes converge most designs of this type can be
constructed economically on the pointed draft basis.
construction of a diamond design based upon 3/ 3 twill weave is
given below:
1 2 3 4 5 6 5 4 3 2
1 2 3 4 5 6 5 4 3 2
1
2
3
4
5
6
5
4
3
2
Diamond weave (10x10)
1
2
3
4
5
6
Zig-Zag weave (10x6)

57. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
Diamond weave of 4/4,2/2 (22x22)

58. Diaper Weave
Diaper weaves are symmetrical about their diagonal axes, these are based
onherringbonedraft and vertical waved twilled peg-plan.
Diaper weave based on 2/2 Twill weave

61. Diaper weave on 3/3, 3/3 Twill

62. Uses of Twill Weave:
Twill weave are extensively used in manufacturing cloth for
garments household cloth and industrial cloth.
•Generally dimond,diaperand zigzag twill are used for making
pillow,cover,screen,unpholstery,bedsheet,toweletc.
•Continioustwill are used for making fabric for shirting,suitingand
pantin(denim,gaverdine).
•For making various type of ornamental cloth,otherderivatives of
twill weave are used.
•Herring bone twill are used in the cloth of suiting and overcoats.

63. Satin & sateen Weave
Thetermsatinisused
forwarpfacestructure
andsateenisusedfor
weftfacestructure.In
puresateenandsatin
weavesthereisone
interlacingforeach
warpyarnandonly
oneinterlacingfor
eachweftyarnineach
repeatoftheweave.
Thiswillresultin
productionoffabrics
withamaximum
degreeofsmoothness
andlusterandwithout
anyprominentweave
effect.

64. Ref: Fabric Structure by N. Gokerneshan

65. Thumb rules for making satin weave
•Move can not be one or less than one of the
satin no.
•Move no. should not be factor of satin no.
•There should not be any common factor
between move no. & satin no.

66. Regular Satin and Sateen weave Possible moves
5 end satin/sateen 2,3
7 end satin/sateen 2,3,4,5
8 end satin/sateen 3,5
9 end satin/sateen 2,4,5,7
10 end satin/sateen 3,7
11 end satin/sateen 2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9
12 end satin/sateen 5,7

68. 4 end sateen (Satinette)
6 end sateen
Irregular Sateen: These are entirely free from twill lines

69. 8 end sateen (irregular)
Ineightendirregularsateen3iscounted
totherightforfourpicks;onthefifth
pickthecountisequaltohalfthe
numberofthreadsintherepeati.e.4and
thenonsucceedingpicks3iscountedto
theleft.

70. 10 end irregular sateen
Intenendirregularsateen3is
countedtotherightforhalfthe
numberofpicks;then5iscounted
andafterwardsonsucceedingpicks
3iscountedtotheleft.

71. 12 ends irregular sateen
In12threadirregularsateenthe
countis3&5alternatelyforthe
sixpicks,then6forthenextpick
andafterwards3&5alternatelyto
theleft.

72. Satin weave derivative
Insimplederivativesthenew
designisbuiltupbyusingthe
originalsatinorsateenasbase,
andsubtractingoraddingmarks
asrequiredinthesamerelative
positiontoeachbasemarks.
5 end sateen Derivative
5 end satin Venetian weave
8 end satin Buckskin weave
8 end satin
derivative

73. Crepe or oatmeal weave
Thetermcrepeisappliedtoweaves,which
givestheappearanceofbeingcoveredby
minutespotsorseeds.Crepeweaveisdifferent
fromcrepeclothinwhichbrokensurfaceeffect
isduetoentirelytotheuseofhightwistyarns
which,uponcontrolledshrinkageinthe
finishing,produceahighlyirregulartexture
althoughwovenintheplainweave.
Construction of crepe weave on satin basis
Thecrepeweavescanbeconstructedbyadding
marksincertainordertosomeofthesateenbase.
Thumbruletomakecrepeweaveonthisprincipleis
thatwarpfloats&weftfloatshouldnotbemorethan
threeinbothside.Intheexamplegivenatright
marksareaddedinTwouponedown,Oneupone
down,oneuponedownorder
Crepe weave on 8 end
satin base (move 3)
[2/1,1/1,1/1]

76. Corkscrew Weaves

79. Twill Weave
Fabric Characteristics

80. Twill Weave
Characteristics (I)
•The values of the twill weave include its strength and
drapability
•The diagonally arranged interlacing of the warp and
weft provide greater pliability and resilience than the
plain weave.
•Twill weave fabrics are more tightly weave and will
not get dirty as quickly as the plain weave.
•The yarns are usually closely beaten, making
especially durable fabric.
•Twill weave are commonly used in men’s suits and
coats.

81. Twill Weave (II)
Characteristics
•Twill line can be made more pominent by
using:
•Plied yarns; high twist yarns; twill weaves with longer
floats; higher number of yarns per inch; and yarn
twist opposite to the twill-line direction.
•Fabric with these lines may become flattened
by wear and pressure, and thus become shiny.

82. Twill Derivates
Broken Twill Weave
•Many combinations and variation of twill
constructions are possible.
•These produce interesting effect.
•The most well-known are herringbone (broken
twill), gabardine and corkscrew twill.

83. Broken Twill Weave
Herringbone Weave

84. Broken Twill Weave
Gabardine Weave Corkscrew Weave

85. Herringbone twill on point paper

86. 3) Satin Weave

87. Satin Weave (I)
•Similar to twill weave but the diagonal line of the
satin weave is not visible.
•It is purposely interrupted in order to contribute to
the flat, smooth, lustrous surface desired.
•There is no visible design on the face of the fabric.
•In a true satin weave, each warp and weft yarn only
interlace once in each repeat of weave.
•Thus, satin weave fabrics have relatively long floats.

88. Satin Weave
5 shaft warp face
satin
5 shaft weft face
satin
Warp face satin
On graph paper
Weft face
Satin on
graph paper

89. Satin Weave (II)
•In a warp face satin, the face is predominantly
warp yarn, while for a weft face satin, the weft
yarns are predominant on the face.
•Satin weave may be designated by the
number of harnesses they require in weaving,
such as five-harness satin.

90. Satin-weave Fabric
•Satin fabric is made from filament yarns, with the
warp yarns predominant on the face.
•Satin fabrics are smooth and lustrous because
lustrous filament yarns are used; there are few
interlacing points, that gives long floats; and the face
yarns are fine and closely packed.
•Since the greatest lustre is in the lengthwise (warp)
direction, garments using this fabric in warp direction
show lustre effect.

91. Sateen Fabric
•Sateen fabric is a durable cotton fabric, usually
with weft face satin weave.
•It is not lustrous as satin fabric as spun yarns
are used.
•Since it is also heavier, with thicker yarns, it is
not as drapable as satin fabric.

92. Characteristics (Satin fabric)
•Satin weave fabric drapes well because the weave is
and heavier than the twill weave.
•The compactness of the weave gives the fabric more
body as well as less porosity, which makes the fabric
warmer.
•The quality of drapability makes satin fabric
preferable for evening wear and the warmth
contributes to its value as lining material.
•Although the long floats of the yarn provide lustre to
the satin weave fabrics, they are responsible for the
poor wearing quality of many of these fabrics

93. Comparison of Basic Weave Properties