Presented By: Nistha Chandela ( IIyr, IVsem ) History of Clothing – A Fashion Timeline
Pre-history 600CE 600-1449 – Medieval romance &trade 1450-1624 – Renaissance splendor 1625-1789 – Baroque& Rocco 1790-1900 – revolution to frivolity 1901-1928 – La Bella Époque & Jazz age 1929-1946 – From Glamour to utility 1947-1963 – Optimism & youth 1964-1979 – Swinging sixties to glam rock 1980 onwards – the designer decade FASHION TIMELINE – THE CONTENTS
ANCIENT WORLD Many shapes & styles in dress date back thousands of year having necessity function & the material available as their starting points. From such crude beginning wonderful piece of embroidery decoration & reinforcement at the same time. From this beginning we meet to splendor beautiful and full of utility garments
MAP
EGYPTIAN FASHION The Shenti was the loincloth worn by Egyptian men. The Kalasiris was a linen gown worn by Egyptian women.
HEADWEAR Nemes : Headwear initially made by leather and then by linen worn by pharroh and nobilities. Khat : It is also called as klaft worn by commoners and nobilities, off white in colour. Servants and slaves did not we- ar nemes or khat .
HEADWEAR (cont.) Hedjet -- White crown Deshret -- Red crown Pschent -- Double crown worn after Menes united upper and lower Egypt. Khepresh -- Blue crown worn during battles during 3000 B.C. TO 2000 B.C. Postiche -- Beard made of wood or gold.
JEWELLERY
FOOTWEAR & MAKE-UP Wore during the new kingdom. Made of leather or papyrus fibre Leather Sandals. Kohl: eye liner made of galena ore to keep away the insects. To keep away the evil eye. Eye shadow: Made of malachite which is red and green in colour
MINOAN Early in the culture, the Loincloth was used by both sexes. The women of Crete wore the garment more as an underskirt than the men, by lengthening it. They are often illustrated in statuettes with a large dagger fixed at the belt. The provision of items intended to secure personal safety was undoubtedly one of the characteristics of female clothing in the Neolithic era[dubious – discuss], traces of the practice having been found in the peat bogs of Denmark up to the Bronze Age. Dresses too were long and low-necked, like those of the 19th century. They were so low that the bodice was open almost all the way to the waist. Practically all men wore a loincloth. Unlike the Egyptians, the shanti varied according to its cut and normally was arranged as a short skirt or apron, ending in a point sticking out similar to a tail. The fabric passed between the legs, adjusted with a belt, and almost certainly, was decorated with metal. It was worn by all men in society. Men had long hair flowing to the shoulders; however several types of headgear were usual, types of bonnets and turbans, probably of skin. Shoes were boots of skin, probably of chamois, and were used only to leave the house, where one went barefoot.
GREEK FASHION Ancient Greek – Clothes The kind of clothing worn in ancient Greece was loose and flowing and hardly were the garments ever sewn together. The fabrics used were mainly linen or wool. Women also wore a veil with their clothing whenever they stepped out of the house. In fact, the ancient Greek fashion was quite modern in its outlook as far as men were concerned to the extent that male nudity was really not a big deal in ancient Greece.
ANCIENT GREEK 4 Types of Clothes 1 . Chiton Was worn in the ancient Greece by men as well as women This form was of clothing was of clothing was quite popular in ancient Greek fashion The chiton could be worn with a himation or it could be worn without it as well A belt was also worn with the chiton , which was called the zoster The Doric chition consisted of two pieces of cloth, which were rectangular in shape, and was worn long The Ionic chiton differed from the Doric chiton in terms of the overfold . The overfold was worn longer on the Doric chiton .
2. Himation When the himation was being worn in ancient Greece, it represented a form of outdoor wear The himation is also an important garment of ancient Greek fashion This was generally made from a rectangular piece of wool with the use of lighter fabrics, the himation was worn at any time of the day The himation was loose and flowing, thus, it can be termed as a modern cloak—it was also used as a form of drapery to be worn over the chiton The himation can be compared to the Roman toga, the only difference being that the himation has less volume in the fabric When worn solo, the himation was known as the a chiton .
3. Peplos Women often wore the peplos and these go back to the period before 500 BC—this can be described as a piece of woollen material and was styled as per the height of the wearer The peplos consisted of a tubular shaped cloth—this was folded from the inside out. The top area of the tube usually gathered at the waist and the bottom area extended till the ankles The cloth on the upper area was brought underneath the left arm—this was secured with the help of tapes or pins on the right shoulder The top layer of the cloth, which draped the waist often gave the appearance of two pieces of cloth There were certain types of patterns that were used for the peplos . Some of the common patterns included checks, flowers, waves or even stripes. When women wore the peplos , the arms were generally left bare. When the fabric hung at the front area, folds were generally formed and these were also fastened on the shoulders .
4. Chlamys The chlamys was also flowing in its appearance and was mainly worn by the soldiers in ancient Greece. The chlamys was used as a cloak and was pinned at the right shoulder The chlamys was also worn with other forms of clothing Generally, soldiers only used it as a form of a cover This was worn pinned at the right arm
MAKE-UPs & HAIRSTYLES
ANCIENT ROME The Roman Empire was one of the greatest civilizations in history. It began in Rome in 753 BC. Rome controlled over two million square miles stretching from the Rhine River to Egypt and from Britain to Asia Minor. This timeline highlights the major events in the history of Ancient Rome. This timeline goes from 753 BC to 27 BC and then from 64 AD to 1453 AD. The clothing of ancient Italy, like that of ancient Greece, is well known from art, literature & archaeology. In Ancient Rome, boys after the age of sixteen had their clothes burned as a sign of growing up. Roman girls also wore white until they were married to say they were pure and virginal.
ANCIENT ROME Probably the most significant item in the ancient Roman wardrobe was the toga, a one-piece woollen garment that draped loosely around the shoulders and down the body. Togas could be wrapped in different ways, and they became larger and more voluminous over the centuries. Some innovations were purely fashionable. Because it was not easy to wear a toga without tripping over it or trailing drapery, some variations in wrapping served a practical function. Other styles were required, for instance, for covering the head during ceremonies. Historians believe that originally the toga was worn by all Romans during the combined centuries of the Roman monarchy and its successor, the Roman Republic. Free citizens were required to wear togas, because only slaves and children wore tunics. By the 2nd century BCE, however, it was worn over a tunic, and the tunic became the basic item of dress for both men and women. Women wore an outer garment known as a stola , which was a long pleated dress similar to the Greek chitons .
ANCIENT ROME - GALLERY
ROMAN ARMOUR The warfare dress code and the armour Various armour were: Scale armour Lamellar armour Mail armour Plate armour Mail and plate armour Leather and fabric armour Brigandine armour
ROMAN ARMOUR Roman Soldier : Wearing a leather cuirass, this reconstructed legionary has a metal helmet and shin guards to protect him in battle. His woollen cloak was also a blanket.
BYZANTINE After the fall of Rome in 1476 C.E., Constantinople (Istanbul) became the centre of the Byzantine world. With the rise of the empire came opulence and a fusion of Greek, Roman, Middle Eastern, and Oriental Styles. Clothes indicated social status. The richest and grandest figures, exemplified by the Emperor Justinian I and his consort Theodora, had their long, flowing gowns of richly patterned silks encrusted with jewels and gold thread. The T-shaped tunics worn by men and veils worn by women.
MEDIEVAL TRADE AND ROMANCE (600-1449) Age of migrations- 600- 1100 Courtly love and crusades- 1100- 1200 Priests and the people- 1100- 1450 The east in the west- 800- 1450
Age of migrations- 600- 1100 After western roman empire collapsed, people started migrating to new areas, people needed warm, water, repelling clothes in the cold climate, so wool was the main cloth used. Men and women wore loose tunics, based on rectangular sewn together in different style and caught into belt. Mantles were draped over tunics and had status enhancing for leaving. Linen shirts were worn as undergarments beneath tunics.
MARKERS OF LUXURY
Courtly love and crusades- 1100- 1200 Fashion became increasingly flamboyant in the 12 th century a time of crusaders, romances and chivalry. Fashion cultivated in south spread north from Mediterranean shores. Clothing become fitted more seductively, showing body’s shape to first time. Figure hugging silk gowns revealed embroidered chemises beneath the laced sides. Garments were still based on rectangular and triangular fabrics cut, but with lacing to crush straight shapes against the curved figure. Ordinary women wore fitted tunics , more closely over waist arms and hips, accessories were long, pointed Pauline shoes and long hair with trailing hems.
Priests and the people- 1100- 1450 Ordinary people wore simple clothes which allowed them to do their work . Their clothes were shorter and plainer and coarser. Often have produced fabrics . Garments were made such as aprons to carry tools. Church people used best quality clothes with finished embroidery and wearing to dress cardinals and bishops. Wide brimmed hat, tippet sleeves, pleated leather purse from belt, use of buttoned tunics, frayed hems.
The east in the west- 800- 1450 In medieval times the Mediterranean basin was the most advanced centre in the world Of learning, Technology and trade . Expensive textiles came from china along the ancient Silk Road, the great trade route running through Central Asia.
Hats, Veils, and Head Coverings The wimple, a style brought back from the Middle East during the Crusades caught on. A wimple is a piece of cloth worn over the head and around the face and neck. A wimple would be worn under a veil called a couverchef . The style can still bee seen today on some Muslim women and on a few Catholic nuns, though not as ornate as the stylish wimples of the Late Middle Ages. Although a wimple was a garment used for modesty, women in the upper classes decorated their wimples and added padded rolls of fabric to create interest.
GALLERY
Men wore many types of hats and head gear. The sugar loaf hat was a tallish, conical hat that resembled an inverted flower pot. The flat, mortar board type hat we associate with graduation emerged in the 14th century, a style that evolved from the biretta, a similar type of hat worn by the clergy. In the mid 1200's, Jews were forced to wear a pointed hat to distinguish them from the Christian populace. Previously, the style had been traditional garb but had fallen out of fashion in the community.
Baroque and Rococo
From Revolution to frivolity – 1790-1900
Crinolines
Evening Gowns
1890’s Age of Optimism Ragtime Men’s Fashions Winged shirt collars Sack Coat Waistcoat (Vest) Ascot Tie
1900’s Edwardian Era Automobile Electricity Men’s Fashions 1 st 3 Piece Suit Creased and cuffed trousers
Edwardian Era
La Belle Époque and Jazz age – 1901- 1928
Suits for city gentlemen 1920s Men’s Fashion guide. Click to view larger. 1920s men’s fashion was the start of menswear as we know it today. Only minor changes in menswear have come about since the 1920s. It was a time of classic sophistication with a level of fun that I haven’t seen since. Suit colors were mostly neutral with patterns but the accessories popped with vibrant colors - just like they did for women’s 1920’s fashion. Popular TV shows such as Boardwalk Empire and Downton Abbey have brought back the appeal for 1920s men’s fashion today. There is an extensive amount of detailed 1920s men’s fashion history articles on this site as well as new 1920s vintage inspired clothing to create your own look. Here is a brief run down of 1920s men’s fashion with link to more reading and shopping.
Men’s fashion What sets 1920s men’s suits apart from other decades are the material and fit. Suits were mostly made of thick wool or a wool tweed and pants made of wool based flannel which made them heavier than today’s suit materials but lighter than the previous decades. Suit jackets were either single or double breasted and featured 3 or 4 buttons up the front. The top button came to the center of the heart giving way to notch lapels. The highness of the suit lapels is what really sets 1920’s suits apart from suits of other eras. The fit changed from a snug slim fit in the early years to a much looser boxy fit by the 1930s. The current trend for vintage inspired menswear reflects the slimmer fit of 1918-1925.
Fashion Trends- 1900-1910 Shirtwaist Leg O’Mutton Sleeves Dustcoast Protect clothing while riding in the automobile
1900-1910 Silhouette ‘ S’ Curve Silhouette
Jazz Age
1910 Women’s movement Men’s fashion Military influence Trench coat