formulation on cosmetic skin care creams

Formulation of vanishing cream ,cold cream & moisturizing cream .

1. PRESENTATION ON BUIDING BLOCKS FOR COSMETIC SKIN CARE CREAMS Presented By:- Mr. Ajay A Patil . M.Pharm – 2 nd Sem Guided By:- Dr. S.S.Mutha Department of Pharmaceutics ( 2019-20 ) PDEA’s SGRS COLLEGE OF PHARMACY, SASWAD

2. What is an cream ? A cream is an semi-solid preparation usually for application to the skin. They are divided into two types : oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsion. . (O/W) Creams which are composed of small droplets of oil dispersed in a continuous water phase . . (W/O) Creams which are composed of small droplets of water dispersed in continuous phase.

3. Types of skin creams : Make up creams - Vanishing cream also called as Snow cream Creams for winter - Cold cream Creams for dry skin -Moisturizing cream

4. Formulation of Creams:- Drug : Drug is dissolved or emulsified in either oil or water according to its solubility. Bases: As cream are emulsion, emulsion bases are mainly used to formulate creams. Absorption bases and water soluble bases are also Used in formulation. Emulsifier/surfactant: Anionic emulsifier- amine soaps such as triethanolamine sterates . Non-ionic emulsifier- glycol,glycerol esters,polyols,PEG. Preservatives, Humectants,water, perfume and colour

5. Manufacturing of creams by Fusion mtd :- Oil phase Heating Water phase Stirring & Mixing Fatty acids, high fatty alcohol, emollient,oil, emulsifier, fat soluble preservatives Purified water, alcohol water soluble preservatives Colouring agent, perfume Stirring, mixing and cooling

6. 1. Cold cream

7. Cold cream is an emulsion of water and certain fats ,usually including beeswax and various scent agents. The emulsion is of a “water in oil” type . Cold cream is frequently referred to as a mixed emulsion,since. Oil-in-water as well water-in-oil globules are present. The name cold cream derives from the cooling feeling that the creams leaves on the skin . Cold cream is mainly used for skin treatment (such as facial mask or lip balm) . Cold creams must primarily have an emollient action.

8. Contd:- During the manufacturing of cold cream, temperature Should be controlled to prevent discolouration , granule formation and bleeding of oil in water. A smooth consistency of cold cream can be achieved by reducing warm component or adding lanolin or absorption base. Spermaceti , kerosene and paraffin wax makes it gloss where as lanolin provides softness.

9. . Ideal characteristics of cold cream (Should have optimum pH (4.6-6). Because skin pH ranges from (4.5-7) weakly acidic. Consistency should be optimum & stable. Should not be sticky & grainy. Should be attractive in apperance Must be non-irritant & non-inflammatory and intoxic.

10. Ingredients used for preparation of cold cream: Mineral oil (liquid paraffin) emulsifier. White beeswax : Thickening agent and . ( Base for the cream) Borax (alkali) used is responsible for whiteness of cold cream . Water, alcohol (as solvent) & preservative. Perfume: Provide fragance(rose water).

11. Formulation :-

12. Method of preparation By:- (Trituration method) Melt the liq.paraffin & beeswax in a jacketed vessel at 75°c and maintain heat In another container , dissolve borax and preservative in water and heat to 75°c (aqeous phase) . Slowly add this aqeous phase to the mineral oil –besswax melted oil phase Triturate uniformly or vigoursly in mortar pestle to form cream ,then cool to 35°c and later add perfume.

13. 2. Vanishing Cream

14. Vanishing creams gets the name from the fact that it leaves no trace when rubbed on to skin. These are ‘ oil in water’ type emulsions because they are water removable and it contains o/w emulsifier that contains large percentage of water & stearic acid or other oleaginous components. After application the continuous phase evapourates, leaving behind a thin residue film of the stearic acid. Traditional formulae of vanishing creams are based on stearic acid.

15. Key ingredients used in production are: Stearic acid -measure component of vanishing cream, also imparts attractive apperance to the cream. -with stearic acid white creams are produced and sometimes because of this whiteness these creams are called ‘ Snow ’. -soap formed In-situ between a suitable alkali & stearic acid determines the hardness of cream -stearic acid of fine quality (triple pressed) should be used in these creams and total proportion should not exceed 25%. triple pressed stearic acid is a mixture of 55% palmitic acid & 45% stearic acid and it is pressed thricely.

16. Alkali :- e.g koH, NaoH, triethanolamine & borax , carbonates , ammonia. -KoH widely used since makes cream of fine texture with out excessive Hardness. -NaoH causes hardness of cream Hence both KoH & NaoH are use in combination. -Borax gives whiteness to the cream But also produce grainyness of cream -Hence borax used in combination with KoH or triethanolamine to form white emulsion. -Carbonates not favoured because liberates Carbon dioxide and cream becomes spongy. -Ammonia causes discolouration of cream .

17. Formulation Ingredients Percent of total Stearic acid. 17 . KoH 07 Glycerol ( humectant ) 5 Water to make 100 Perfume & preservative. q s

18. Method of preparation:-( Fusion + Trituration) Dissolve koH in water , add Glycerol and preservatives And heat to 80°c . In another vessel melt stearic acid (oily phase ) and heat to 75°c. Add alkali solution to the melted oily phase with good agitation or Trituration When mixture has cooled to about 45°c add the Perfume and continuous slow mixing until cool.

19. 3.Moisturizing cream

20. Moisturizing cream When water is lost from stratum corneum more rapidly then it is recieved from lower layers of the skin . The skin becomes dehydrated the dehydrated skin loses its flexibility and appears rough. Water (moisture) plasticizes stratum corneum, provides flexibility makes it soft.and soft skin appears smooth.

21. Those cream which restore water (moisture) to the stratum corneum are called moisturizing cream. Water contained in a cream is lost by evaporation when the cream is applied to the body . Therefore, a moisturizing cream must provide a non-volatile residual film capable of retaining the moisture of the skin as well as moisture which is applied directly by the cream. Emollients imports smoothness and general sense of well-being to the skin as determined by touch eg.glycerin

22. Formulation :-

23. Evaluation of creams pH of Cream Viscosity Spreadability Irritancy test Patch test Stability studies -(globule size & phase separation) Partition coefficient of cream.

24. Reference B.M. Mithal and R.N. Shah handbook of cosmetic. Gupta . Pharmaceutics and cosmetics S.Saraf , cosmetics a practical manual 2 nd edition P.P Sharma

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