garments terms-1 Apparel manufacturing 1 Textile engineering

garments terms-1 Apparel manufacturing 1 Textile engineering

1. Prepared
By
Mitu Gharami
Lecturer
Department of Textile Engineering

2. Toproducegarmentweneedfabricsandaccessories.To
producefabricweneedyarnandtoproduceyarnneedfiber.
Tofinishesthefabricdyeing,printing,finishingindustryis
required.
Weknowthat80%ofexportearningsisspenttoimpart
rawmaterials.Ifwewanttoincreasetheretentionmoney,we
musthavetoincreasebackwardlinkageindustrylikeexport
orientedspinningmill,weavingandknittingmill,dyeing,
printingandfinishingmills.

3. Besidethosefactorieswealsoneedtodevelop
communication,bankingandcustoms.
Tosurviveinnearfuture,wemusthavetominimize
costandimprovequalityofgarmentswhichisagreat
taskforthegarmentssectorofBangladesh

4. Re-stitchingoveraveryshortlengthtogiveand
increasetheareaahighloadbearingstrength.For
instancebeltloopsandeachcornerofpocketarebar
tacked.

5. The garments which are not used further after using
ones i.e. the garments which are thrown after using
ones are called disposable garments.

6. Approximately 1cm or small stitch backward at the
beginning and finishing of sewing and thus securing
of the sewn end so that the thread could not be loosed
easily.

7. It is a special type of stitch that can not seen from the
face side of the fabric but can easily seen from the
back side.

8. Allowance:When garment is made by adding extra
dimension with the exact body measurement is called
allowance.
Applique:A cut out design or shape attached to the
face of a fabric for ornamentation of garments is
called applique.

9. Basting:The process of non-permanent sewing for
placing perfect place just before final sewing is called
basting. It can be done by manually or by m/c.

10. C and F:If the price of goods is mentioned in
invoice including transport cost is called C and F.
(Cost and Freight)
C.I.F:If the price of goods is mentioned in invoice
with including transports cost and insurance cost.
(Cost, Insurance & Freight)
Collar:The flat, upright or turned over section of a
garments which fits around the neck is called collar.

11. Cuff:The lower part of the sleeve of a garments and
also the corresponding part of trouser and gloves is
called cuff.
Flap:The part which is used to cover the opened face
the pocket is called flap.

12. Dart:The process to give respected shape by removing
the wedge from the garments surface by stitching or
cutting and stitching is called dart. It is used for tightness
of goods.
Pleat:The folds usually run in the lengthwise direction
of a garments giving a decorative effects and allowance
for expansion of the garments in the cross section is
called pleat. It is used for looseness of garments. Dart
and pleat are all used of fashion designer in the back
Part of a shirt.

13. Drape:The ability of a fabric to hang graceful folds is
called drape. Example : Folds of a certain or skirt.
Dummy:The model which is exactly similar to the
shape of the body of a man and which is used to check
the fitting of garments is called dummy.

14. Grading:It is the process to make pattern of different
sizes from master pattern.
Grain Line:Pattern pieces normally carry a line is
called grain line, indicating the fabric grain.
Grain:The term which is used in making up to refer to
the direction of the warp threads is woven or warp
knitted and the direction of Wales in knitted fabric is
called grain.

15. Hang Appeal:The garments which are hanged on
hangers or kept on hanger during selling, how much
beautiful to see in that condition is called hanger appeal.
Hook and Loop Fastening:A Swiss invention made this
product. This item consists of two nylon tapes, one
having a surface of loops and the other surface of hooks.
When pressed together, two tapes adhere and cannot
open by side way turn but easily open by upwards turn.

16. Invoice:The documents mentioning the price is called
invoice. After sending the garments goods to the
importer country it is to the buyer for collecting price.
L/C:A letter of credit (also known as documentary
credit) is a document issued by a bank on behalf of
an applicant (the buyer) undertaking to make payment
to the advising bank of beneficiary (the seller) up to
a stated amount of money, within a prescribed time
limit and against certain documents.

17. Interlining:Interliningisonekindofaccessorieswhichis
usedbetweentwolayersoffabricingarmentstosupport,
reinforceandcontrolareasofgarmentsandtoremainactual
shape.Itistwotypes.Suchas:(i)NonFusible/Sewn
Interlining(ii)FusibleInterlining
Lining:Theclothswhichareusedtocoverthepartorallof
theinsideofapparel,thebackofcurtainsortheinsideor
backoftheotherproductiscalledlining.Itisgenerallya
functionalpartofagarment,anaccessories.Lining
materialscanbeusedforsmallpartspocketsandfor
completegarments,eitherfullybaggedout.Itcanbeused
coat,jacketandraincoat,bodyandsleeveforladiesitems.
Suchas:Blouse,frocketc.Itisattachedbysewing,coating
isnotused.

18. Ligne No:The measuring unit of the bottom which
indicates the diameter of the button is called ligne no,
If diameter increase then ligne no is increased.
Ligne:A standard measure equal to 0.635 mm by
which buttons and ribbons measured is called ligne.
Model:The designers original sample garments is
called model.
Off Grain:If any weft yarn of fabric do not states in
90 degree angle with selvedge, is called off grain. In
other words, if grain line of pattern piece is not placed
or cut parallel to grain line of fabric is called of grain.

19. Sewing:Sewingistheprocesstojoinupthedifferent
partsofthefabricwiththehelpofsewingneedleand
threadsinmanuallyorbysewingmachine.
Stitch:Looporloopsofoneormorethreadsbound
witheachother,eitherbyinterlacing,interlooping,
intraloopingorcombinationofthosewhensewing
fabric,eachunitofsuchconfigurationiscalledstitch.
Trimming:Theattachmentofvariousdecorative
effectswithoutfabricbutincludingthread,button,
interlining,zipper,mainlabel,carelabel,sizelabeletc
calledtrimming.

20. Pressing:The process to remove the unwanted crease
and wrinkles from the fabric to give it smoothness,
lusterness, and the appearance is called pressing. It is
known as ironing in garments industries.
Seam Pucker:Unwanted waviness of the material
along the seam line is called seam pucker. This may be
apparent immediately after sewing or it may develop
later in use.

21. ItstandsforGeneralizedsystemofpreferences.
Itisaunilateralpreferentialtradeagreementwhichis
governedbyasetofrulesdifferentfromthose
applicableinaregulartrade.
Therulesarebasedontherationaletopromote
industrializationofthedevelopingcountriesthrougha
reducedorzerodutyaccesstothedeveloped
importingcountries.

22. Acertainamountofgoodswhichareallowedtobe
exportedcouldbefixedbytheimportercountrytothe
exportercountry.
NonQuota:
Thecategoryoritemsonwhicharenotappliedon
limitationorconditionforexporting,thesearecalled
nonquota.

23. Forimportingorexportingthegarmentsaspecific
garmentsareindicatedorexpressedbyanumberis
calledcategorynumberorcategory.
InSweden,categorynumberiscalledgroup.
ForExample
Canada Non-quota Categories
Category Description
39 T-shirt (Knitted), Suit shirt (Minimum
one sided brushor fleece)
41 Rain wear

24. U.S.A Quota Categories
U.S.A non-quota categories
Category Description
334 Cotton jacket & coat for girl orwomen
335 Cotton jacket & coat for girl orwomen
Category Description
239 Kidsapparel
345 Sweater

25. E.E.C Categories
Sweden Group Description
Category Description
4 T-shirt
71 Kids clothing
GroupNo Description
5 Sweater
6/7B Over coat ,jacket and blazer

26. Itisstandsforexportpromotionbureau.
Itisagovernmentagency.
Theydistributethetotalquotaforaparticularyearto
theBGMEAmembers.
Thesequotaisdistributedaccordingtothevolumeof
thatgarmentsandhowmanyquantitytheyhave
exportedforthelastfinancialyear.

27. Itstandsforletterofcredit.Itisacommitmentor
securityletterbyanopeningbankonbehalfofthe
importerinfavorofexporterthebillsmustbepaid
aftertheshipmentofspecifieditems&qualityof
goods.

28. Master L/C:When L/C is opened to import the
goods from exporter to the buyer is called master
L/C.
Back to back L/C: when L/C is opened for import
the raw materials from abroad then produce and
supply to the abroad is back to back L/C. This type of
goods cannot be sold in local market.

29. There are three processes for fixation of export prices which are
as under-
I) FOB (Free on boat): If the price of goods is mentioned in invoice
without other costs (transportation cost, Insurance cost) is called
FOB.
II) C & F(Cost and freight): If the price of goods is mentioned in
invoice with including transportation cost is called C & F.
III) C.I.F (Cost Insurance and freight): If the price of goods is
mentioned in invoice with including transportation , insurance
cost is called C.I.F