Herbal Cosmetics Herbal Drug Technology B Pharmacy

Herbal Cosmetics B Pharmacy 6th semester Herbal Drug Teachnology

1. Preface
Possible efforts have been made from my side to establish the well
oragnized matter of this topic. The contents of this presentation are
borrowed from various sources which have sufficient amount of study
material available to fulfil the demands of the pharmacy students at
bachelor level as per PCI syllabus of Herbal Drug Technology Unit 3: A)
Herbal Cosmetics . The study material has been revised thoroughly in order
to avoid errors. Plus, illustrations have been provided in every topics and
subtopics for better recognization of the topic. If the reader founds any
mistake in this material feel free to respond.





12 April 2023 Nagpur

2. Herbal Cosmetics

Contents in this slide:
•Definition
•Sources and description of raw materials of herbal origin
used via, fixed oils, waxes, gums, colors, perfumes,
protective agents, bleaching agents, antioxidants in
products such as skin care, hair care and oral hygiene.

3. 1.1: Definition
The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek word “kosm tikos” meaning
have the power, arrange, skill in decorating.

According to Drugs and Cosmetics Act, “Cosmetics are defined as articles
intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced into or
otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing,
beautifying, promoting, attractiveness or altering the appearance.”

General definition:
Cosmetic is a preparation or substance intended to be placed in contact with
the external parts of the human body or the teeth and buccal mucosa with
the aim of cleaning, perfuming, improving the appearance, and keeping them
in good condition. When cosmetics are prepared using plant products having
cosmetic actions, they are known as herbal cosmetics.

4. Classification of herbal raw materials used in herbal
cosmetics:
1) Fixed oils
2) Waxes
3) Colours
4) Perfumes
5) Protective agents
6) Bleaching agents
7) Antioxidants

5. 1.Fixed oils
Oils are derived from vegetable and mineral sources, and are used in
cosmetics.
Examples of vegetable oils: Almond oil, Arachis Oil, Castor Oil, Olive oil and
coconut oil.
Examples of mineral oils: Light and heavy parrafin.

6. Almond Oil
Biological source: Almond oil is obtained from the seeds of Prunus amygdalus.
Family: Rosaceae
Chemical constituents:
The active principles of almond oil are the mixture of glycoside with oleic
acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid and palmitic acid.
Description:
The oil is pale yellow in color.
It has characteristic odour.
Uses in cosmetic:
Because of its emollient, it is used in the preparation of creams and lotions.

7. Castor Oil
Biological source: Castor oil is obtained from the seeds of Ricinus communis.
Family: Euphorbiaceae
Chemical constituents:
The fixed oil contains a mixture of glycosides, in which 80% ricinoleic acid is
the major constituent.
Acidity of oil is 1% (Cold-drawn castor oil) and 5% (for hot expression
method)
Contains glycerides of ricinoleic acid (80%)
Due to its emollient action, it is used in the preparation of lipsticks, hair
oils, creams and lotions.

8. Description:
The oil is colourless or slightly yellow viscous liquid.
Uses in cosmetic:
Used as an emollient in the preparations of lipsticks, tooth
formulations in hair oil, creams and lotions.

9. Coconut Oil
Biological source: Coconut oil is obtained from the dried solid part of
endosperm of Cocos nucifera
Family: Palmaeceae

Description:
Exists as a white or pearl white unctuos (having greasy or soapy feel) mass in
winter and colorless in summer.
Uses in cosmetic:
•Used as hair conditioner and for damaged and dandruff-prone hair.
•It keeps the skin hydrated, soft and glowing.
•Used as additive in many beauty products.

10. Olive Oil
Biological Source: It is obtained from the ripe fruits of Olea Europea.
Family: Oleaceae.
Chemical Constituents: consists of glycerides of oleic, palmitic, linoleic,
stearic and myristic acids.
Description:
Pale yellow or greenish yellow color
Odour: slightly aromatic
Use in Cosmetics:
•Due to its emollient action and soothing properties, it is used in the
preparation of creams, lotions.
•Has nutritive and laxative property.

11. Light Liquid Paraffin
Chemical Constituents:
•It consists of a mixture of hydrocarbons.
Description:
•It is anhydrous lanolin
•Colorless and odourless oily liquid
Uses in Cosmetic:
Due to its better spreadability, it is used in the preparation of hair oil,
lotions and creams.
Heavy Liquid Paraffin
Source: obtained from petroleum.
Chemical Constituents:
It is also a mixture of hydrocarbons.
Description:
Appears as colorless and odourless oily liquid.
Uses in Cosmetic:
Due to its soothing effect on the skin, it is used in the preparation of
creams, lotions and hair oils.

12. 2. Waxes
•Waxes are solid, semisolid occasionally liquid substances.
•Chemically, waxes are esters of higher fatty acids and monohydric alcohols
of high molecular weight such as cetyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and
cholesterol etc.
•Waxes are soluble in most of the organic solvents but they are insoluble in
water.
•Waxes are obtained from two sources viz Vegetable and animal sources:
1.Vegetable: Japan wax, Carnauba wax and Seasal wax
2.Animal: Bees wax, Wool fat and spermaceti.

13. Bees wax
Biological source: Beeswax is obtained from the honey comb of the bees
Apis mellifera.
Family: Apidae
Chemical constituents:
Bees wax contains mainly Myricyl palmitate ester (80%).
Description:
•The wax is yellowish in color.
•It has agreeable honey like odour
•Melting point -: 62 – 65˚C
Uses in cosmetic:
Beeswax helps in water incorporation to form an emulsion.

14. Carnauba Wax
Biological source: Carnauba wax is the exudate from pores of the leaves
of the tree Copernica prunifera and Copernica cerifera.
Family: Palmaeceae
Chemical constituents:
Carnauba wax contains esters of carnaubic and cerotic acids. It also
contains Melissyl cerotate.
Description:
Melting point: 82 – 83˚C
Uses in cosmetic:
•Acts as a natural binding agent that stretches their holding power,
which increases the length of time that they remain on the skin or hair.





FUN FACT: Carnauba Wax is harder than concrete.

15. Paraffin Wax
Source: obtained by the distillation of petroleum.
Chemical Constituents:
It is a mixture of solid hydrocarbons, mainly containing n-paraffins.

16. 3.Gums
•Gums are the natural plant exudates that had oozed from parts of plants
and
hardened upon exposure to air.
•Gums are considered to be pathological products formed following injury
to
the plant or owing to unfavourable conditions, such as drought, breakdown
of cell walls.
•Gums are exuded from the bark and stem of the plants. A few gums are
obtained from roots, leaves and other parts of plant.
Gums are grouped into three categories:
a) Natural gums – Found in a natural state exuded from the plant
E.g. Guar gum
b) Modified gums – Chemically modified natural gums E.g. derivatives of
cellulose or starch
c) Synthetic gums – Completely synthesized chemical products
E.g. Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

17. Sodium Alginate
Biological Source:
Sodium alginate is obtained from brown algae Laminaria digitata.
Family: Laminariaceae
Chemical constituents:
Sodium alginate is the sodium salt of alginic acid.
Alginic acid is a poluuromide composed of D-mannuronic acid and L-
guluronic acid.
Description:
Cream colour powder.
Odourless and slightly sour taste
It is soluble in hot and cold water.
The solution does not form gel on cooling and not coagulated by heat.
Uses in cosmetic:
Used as deflocculating, thickening, and stabilizing agent in dermatological
and dental preparations.

18. Tragacanth
Biological Source:
Tragacanth is the dried gummy exudates obtained from the stems and
branches of Astragalus gummifer
Family: Leguminosae
Chemical constituents:
Tragacanth is composed of two fractions.
1.The water soluble fraction is known as tragacanthin and the water
insoluble fraction is known as bassorin
2.Tragacanth is a complex mixture containing D-galactose, L-fructose, D-
xylose, L- arabinose and D- galacturonic acid.
Description:
Yellowish white flakes.
Odourless and mucilaginous taste
It is partially soluble in water.

19. Uses in cosmetic:
Used as emollient in cosmetics.
Because of its viscosity and film forming properties, used in hair fixator
creams.
Used as a suspending agent in tooth pastes.
Used in hair lotions and hand lotions.

20. 4.Colors
Natural dyed are derived from naturally occurring sources without any
chemical treatment.
Colors are exhibited by various organic and inorganic molecules (pigments)
present.

Saffron
Biological Source:
Saffron is the dried stigma and style of Crocus sativus .
Family: Iridaceae
Chemical constituents:
•Saffron contains crocin, crocetin
•Crocin is an important natural saffron carotenoid.
Description:
Picrocrocin is a colorless bitter glycoside that imparts a characteristic odour
to saffron.

21. Biological Source: Dried seeds of plant Bixa Orellana.
Family: Bixaceae
Chemical Constituent:
•Main constituent of pigment is known as Bixin which constitutes about
70-80% of pigment.
•Bixin is a carotenoid carboxylic acid and is responsible for yellow color.
•Annato extracts are potassium salts of norbixin.
Uses in Cosmetic:
•Used as a flavouring agent and colouring agent in food preparation.
•Bixin is antioxidant and protects against UV light.
Annato

22. Cochineal
Biological Source: Red dye stuff obtained from the dries female insect,
Dactylopius coccus.
Family: Coccidae.
Chemical Constituent:
Carminic Acid (red colour matter)
Calcium oxalate: Prismatic
Description:
Carminic acid forms red needles on crystallization, these needles darkens at
130˚C and carbonize at 250˚C.
Cochineal is extracted with water, and alum is added to this solution to
precipitate carmine lake (the red Aluminum Salt).

23. Chlorophyll
Natural Green pigment abundantly found in nature.
It is responsible for photosynthesis.

24. 5. Perfumes
Perfume (Fragrance) is a mixture of essential oils or aroma compounds,
used to give the human body a pleasant scent. Perfumes are used to
impart a pleasant odour, mask the inherent smell of some ingredients and
enhance the experience of using the product.
Factors to be considered when formulating a perfume:
1.Strength of smell
2.Compatibility of ingredients with each other
3.Stability to light and heat
4.Interaction with product packaging

Properties of the ingredients after they are applied to the skin. Some
ingredients evaporate very rapidly, while others remain on the skin for
longer time.

25. Lavender Oil
Biological Source:
Lavender oil is extracted from the flowers of Lavandula officinalis.
Family: Labiatae
Chemical constituents:
Lavender oil contains α – pinene, limonene, cineole, camphor, and
Linalool.
Description:
Colourless to yellow.
Characteristic aromatic odour.
Aromatic and pungent taste.
Use in cosmetic:
•Used in the preparation of soaps, shampoos and sprays.
•Used as moisturizer and to restore skin complexion.
•Effective for treating alopecia (scientific term for baldness).

26. Rose Oil
Biological Source:
Rose oil is extracted from the flowers of Rosa damascene.
Family: Rosaceae
Chemical constituents:
Rose oil contains citronellol, geraniol, nerol, linalool, phenyl ethyl
alcohol, pinene, limonene and p – cymene.
Description:
Pale yellow.
Characteristic aromatic odour.
Fruity taste.
It is insoluble in water but soluble in alcohol and vegetable oils.
Use in cosmetic:
•Used in the preparation of soaps, body lotions, face cream etc.
•Used as moisturizer.

27. Geranium Oil
Biological Source: obtained from the fresh leaves and the stems of
Pelargonium graveolens Linn.
Family: Geraniaceae
Extracted by Steam distillation.
Chemical Constituents:
•All varities of germanium generally contain 0.08 to 0.4% of fragrant
volatile oil.
•Contains two types of constituents i.e. alcohols and esters.
•The alcohols are β-citranellol and Geranuol about 60-70%.

28. Jasmine essential oil
Biological Source: Obtained from the flowers of Jasminum grandiflorum.
Family: Oleaceae
Extraction is done by solvent extraction to obtain Jasmine Oil.
Uses in cosmetics:
It is used in perfumery industries.

29. Tuberose Oil
Biological Source: Obtained from flowers of Epimedium acuminatum (also
known as mistress of the night) called the acuminate barrenwort, is a
species of flowering plant.
Brown, viscous liquid with sweet taste.

30. Champa Oil
Biological source: obtained from the flowers of Michelia champaca.
Family: Magnoliaceae.

31. Cinnamon Oil
Biological Source: obtained from the different parts of cinnamon tree, i.e. its
leaves, barks, and roots of Cinnamon zeylanicum.
Family: Lauraceae

32. Neroli Oil
Biological Source: essential oil extracted extracted from the flowers of the
bitter orange trees Citrus aurantium.
Family: Rutaceae

33. 6. Protective Agents
Exposure of skin to sunlight and other atmospheric conditions cause the
production of reactive oxygen species, which can react with DNA, proteins,
and fatty acids, causing damage and impairment of antioxidant system.

Such injuries lead to, Photo aging, Skin cancer, Wrinkles, Roughness,
Appearance of fine lines, Lack of elasticity, Hyper pigmentation marks.

•UV – A radiations penetrate deep into the epidermis and dermis of the
skin and
cause darkening of the skin due to excess production of melanin in the
epidermis. They also suppress immunological functions, cause necrosis of
endothelial cells and damage the dermal blood vessels.
•UV – B radiations cause sunburn and damage epidermal basal cell layer.
Protective agents combat the harmful effects of both UV – A and UV – A
radiations.

34. Neem
Biological Source:
Neem consists of the fresh or dried leaves and seed oil of Azadirachta indica.
Family: Meliaceae
Chemical constituents:
Neem contains Nimbin, nimbinene, nimbandiol, nimbolide and azadirachtin.

Use in cosmetic:
•Powdered leaves are used in facial cream.
•Neem oil is used in nail polish.
•Neem leaves are used to prepare shampoo, which stimulate growth of
thicker, longer and stronger hair.
•Neem shampoo also eliminates dandruff.

35. Cucumber
Biological Source:
Cucumber is obtained from the fruits of Cucumis sativus.
Family: Cucurbitaceae
Chemical constituents:
Neem contains Vitamins A, C, E, K, thiamine, riboflavin, niacin and
Vitamin B-6.
Use in cosmetic:
•Used to soothe sunburn
•They create gel like layer on the skin that acts as a barrier to attract and
keep moisture in skin.

36. 7.Bleaching Agents
As skin is exposed to sunlight daily, which causes skin pigmentation
disorders such as,
•Melasma (darkening of skin due to pregnancy)
•Hyper pigmentation
•Skin problems such as freckles, age spots, acne scars
•Discoloration related to hormones
•The natural substances used to protect from above are known as skin
lightening products or whiteners or skin brighteners

37. Lemon
Biological Source:
Lemon is the fruits obtained from Citrus limon.
Family: Rutaceae
Chemical constituents:
Lemon contains Vitamin C, citric acid, Vitamin B, terpenes and
tannins.
Use in cosmetic:
•Vitamin C in lemon helps to reduce skin wrinkling, dry skin from
aging and damage from the sun.
•Hair is shine when rinsed with lemon juice.
•Lemon juice also removes oil, dirt and dead skin cells from scalp.

38. Turmeric
Biological Source:
Turmeric is the dried rhizomes of Curcuma longa.
Family: Zingiberaceae
Chemical constituents:
Turmeric contains curcuminoids – curcumin, demethoxy curcumin
and bis demethoxy curcumin.
It also contains carbohydrates, proteins, fats, essential oils and
dietary fibres.
Description:
Aromatic odour. Bitter taste.
Use in cosmetic:
•Used as wound healing powder.
•Used to treat acne, burns, eczema
and sun damage.

39. Antioxidants:
Antioxidants prevent oxidation of oxygen sensitive substances.
They protect the drug product by acting as:
•Reducing Agent (e.g. Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Bisulphite, thiourea) or
•Preferentially oxidized or by blocking an oxidative chain reaction (eg.
Ascorbic Acid esters, butylhydroxy anisole and tocopherols) which are
true antioxidants.
They are added to pharmaceutical formulations as redox systems
possessing higher oxidative potential than the drug that they are designed
to protect or as chain inhibitors of radical induced decomposition.

40. •Typically antioxidants are employed in low concentrations (0.2% w/w) and
it is usual for the concentration of antioxidant in the finished product to be
markedly less than the initial concentration, due to oxidative degradation
during manufacture of the dosage form.
•Antioxidants may also be used in combination with chelating agents such
as disodium EDTA.
Herbs Containing Antioxidants
Tamarind
Biological Source: Tamarindus indica
Family: Fabaceae
•Tamarind seeds exhibit radical scavenging, anti-microbial and lipid
peroxidation reducing activities.
•Due to its antioxidant activity, tamarind is added in anti-wrinkle cosmetics.
Vitamin C
•It prevents free radical damage by donating free radicals.
•It boosts up immune system.
•Carrots , peaches, sweet potatoes, oranges, brocolli,etc. are the major
sourcs of Vitamin C.

41. Vitamin E
•Known as scavenger of free radicals.
•It is beneficial against certain types of cancer and cardiac problems.
•Almonds, nuts, whole cereal grains, vegetable oils, etc. are the major
sources of Vitamin E.
Pomegranate
•Antioxidant activity: cell free systems, Artemia salina and HepG
2.
•Antiproliferative activity in cancer cells: HeLa, PC
3
•Inhibition of enzymes: COX-2, MAO-A.

42. Resveratrol
•It is a polyphenolic phytoalexin compound, present in the skin and seeds
of grapes, berries, peanuts, and other foods.
•It is a potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-prolifervative
agent.
•Prevent skin cancer and other and other conditions generated by the
sun.

43. Ferulic Acid
•Oil of Asafoetida is obtained by steam distillation of the oleo-gum resin.
•Potent antioxidant that provides photo protection to skin thus added in
sunscreens, cosmetic lotions and other skin products.

44. Liquorice
•Glycyrrhiza glabra extract is used to treat skin irritation dermatitis,
eczema, pruritius, and cysts.
•Glycyrrhizin is an important constituent of liquorice and has a
chemopreventive action.

45. THANK YOU