HERBAL COSMETICS.pptx

HERBAL DRUG TECHNOLOGY
Herbal Cosmetics
Sources and description of raw materials of herbal origin used via, fixed oils, waxes, gums
colours, perfumes, protective agents, bleaching agents, antioxidants in products such as skin
care, hair care and oral hygiene products.

1. HERBAL COSMETICS M.SAKTHIGANAPATHI.,M.Pharm.,PGDCA., Ph.D ASSISTANT PROFESSOR, DEPARTMENT OF PHARMACOGNOSY, SCHOOL OF PHARMACY, SRI BALAJI VIDYAPEETH UNIVERSITY, PUDUCHERRY.

2. Definition: Cosmetics The word cosmetics derives from the Greek words: “ Kosmetikē tekhnē ”- meaning “technique of dress and ornament”. “ Kosmētikos ”- meaning “skilled in ordering or arranging”. “ Kosmos “ - meaning "order" and "ornament“. Cosmetics are constituted from a mixture of chemical compounds derived from either natural sources, or synthetically created ones.

3. INDIA : Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940 Cosmetic is defined under section 3( aaa ) of the Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940 as, any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, or introduced into, or otherwise applied to, the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance, and includes any article intended for use as a component of cosmetic.

4. USA : Food and Drug Administration (FDA) Cosmetics as products "intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions". This broad definition includes any material intended for use as an ingredient of a cosmetic product, with the FDA specifically excluding pure soap from this category.

5. HERBAL COSMETICS : The products having desirable physiological properties like healing, enhancement of appearance, and conditioning properties due to the herbal ingredients present in them are called herbal cosmetics .

6. SKIN CARE PRODUCTS : Herbal Creams : Cold Cream Vanishing Cream Nourishing Cream Night Cream Moisturiser Cream Anti-Acne Cream Sunscreen Cream Anti-Wrinkle Cream Fairness Cream Herbal Powders: Talcum Powder Body Powder After-Shave Powder Baby Powder

7. SKIN CARE PRODUCTS : Herbal Face Washes : Gentle Face Wash All Skin Type Face Wash Herbal Face Packs Herbal Lip Balms Herbal Soaps

8. COLD CREAM: Cold creams are water-in-oil emulsion (w/o), and the bases used in their preparation are: a) Almond oil and white bees wax, and b) Borax (as emulsifier) and rose water

9. VANISHING CREAM : These are oil -in-water emulsion (o/w), and are hardly visible when applied to skin. They impart moisturizing as well as emollient effect.

10. NOURISHING CREAM : These creams are non -greasy, and provide nourishment as well as protection to the skin.

11. NIGHT CREAM : These creams are applied during night. They consist of revitalizers, moisturizers, and skin-rejuvenating nutrients. Night creams prevent evaporation and moisturize the skin.

12. MOISTURISER CREAM : These creams are applied on dry skin as they heal and repair dry skin, and maintain the softness of skin. They maintain skin hydration by reducing evaporation.

13. ANTI-ACNE CREAM : These creams are applied on the skin surface, and mainly act on hair follicles and sebaceous glands.

14. SUNSCREEN CREAM : These creams are used topically to protect the skin from harmful effects of sunrays. They act either by scattering the sunlight or by absorbing the erythematous rays of sun.

15. ANTI-WRINKLE CREAM : These creams are used for delaying wrinkles and reducing the already present fine lines. On using regularly, these creams prevent oxidative damage of skin.

16. FAIRNESS CREAM : These creams reduce melanin formation as well as skin pigmentation.

17. HERBAL POWDERS : A range of herbal powders are available in the market such as Dusting powder Talcum powder Body powder After-bath powder After-shave powder Baby powder. A minor difference exists among the formulations Therefore, these powders are considered same to some extent.

18. HERBAL FACE WASH: These are used to remove dirt, dust and other debris adhered to the facial skin. These preparations also have antiseptic as well as antimicrobial properties. Depending on the need and skin type of consumers, different types of face washes are formulated: Gentle Face Washes: These are used for mild cleansing and are applied very gently on the face. Daily use of these face washes protects the skin against dust, dirt, and pollutants. All Skin Type Face Washes: These are formulated without any soap and thus can be used on daily basis for almost all skin types.

19. HERBAL FACE PACK : These formulations are applied on face to stimulate blood circulation in facial region, provide muscle toning, make the facial skin supple and elastic, and clean clogged skin pores by removing impurities.

20. HERBAL LIP BALM : These are used on lips to prevent them from cracking, chapping and drying. Edible ingredients should be used in the formulation of lip balms. They also contain ingredients that act as natural filter to UV rays and vitamin E to provide nourishment and softness.

21. HERBAL SOAP : These are used for cleansing the body. Soaps are generally made up of a mixture of fatty acids sequestered by alkali metals. The basic fatty acids used in the formulation of soaps are triglycerides such as tallow, coconut oil, or palm oil.

22. HAIR CARE PRODUCTS : Herbal Hair Gel Herbal Shampoo Herbal Hair Conditioner Herbal Hair Oil

23. HERBAL HAIR GEL : These are used for hair styling as they make hair manageable, easy to handle, and reduce their tendency to fly.

24. HERBAL SHAMPOO : These are used for cleaning hair. Various herbal shampoos, containing a unique blend of natural ingredients, are available in the market as per the requirement of consumer and type of hair.

25. HERBAL HAIR COLOUR : These are used to cover-up grey hair or as a style statement. Herbal hair colours are prepared by boiling the leaves of desirable herb in water. The resultant mixture is left undisturbed for a few hours, and then strained to remove the leaves. Lastly, alcohol and perfume are added. Metallic salts are added to produce a range of colours with henna.

26. HERBAL HAIR CONDITIONER : These preparations are used to condition the hair by moisturizing them properly. If water is directly applied on hair for moisturizing, no effect is observed as the water evaporates. This problem can be overcome by using w/o emulsion as its aqueous component moisturizes the hair and the lipid component locks the moisture and prevents evaporation.

27. HERBAL HAIR OIL : These preparations provide nourishment to the scalp and hair roots, as well as impart a lustrous texture to hair.

28. ORAL HYGIENE PRODUCTS : Oral hygiene Products are intended to cleanse the oral cavity, freshen the breath, and maintain good oral hygiene. Some products also include ingredients to protect against the formation of cavities. Toothpaste Tooth Powder Mouthwash Gargles

29. TOOTHPASTE : These serve dual purpose; firstly, they remove stains from the teeth, and secondly, they freshen up breath and mouth.

30. TOOTH POWDER : These are considered to be forerunner of toothpastes; however, they are now losing popularity. Tooth powders are mixtures of dental abrasives, flavoring agents, sweetening agents, and foaming agents.

31. MOUTHWASHE : These are flavored liquids used for rinsing the oral cavity after brushing and flossing.

32. GARGLES : These are medicated aqueous preparations used for treating pharyngitis, laryngitis, and any other throat infections. Gargles are diluted before use. They should never be swallowed but should be spitted out after rinsing the oral cavity.

33. Sources and description of the following raw materials of herbal origin used in formulating herbal cosmetics are discussed below: Fixed oils Waxes Colours Perfumes Protective agents Bleaching agents Antioxidants Surfactants Preservatives. SOURCES AND DESCRIPTION OF RAW MATERIALS OF HERBAL ORIGIN USED IN HERBAL COSMETICS

34. FIXED OILS : Oils are derived from vegetable and mineral sources, and are used in cosmetics. Examples of vegetable oils are almond oil, arachis oil, castor oil, olive oil and coconut oil. Examples of mineral oils are light and heavy paraffin.

35. Almond Oil: It is a fixed oil obtained by expressing the seeds of Prunus amygdalus (family Rosaceae). It is pale yellow in colour and has a characteristic odour . The active principles of almond oil are the mixture of glycoside with oleic acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid, and palmitic acid. Due to its emollient action, it is used in the preparation of creams and lotions. Arachis Oil: It is a fixed oil obtained from the seeds of Arachis hypogea (family Leguminosae). It is pale yellow in colour and has a faint nutty odour . Refined arachis oil is colourless , and its active principles include oleic acid, linoleic acid, and a small number of other acids. At 3°C, it turns cloudy, and at a lower temperature, it solidifies. Arachis oil is used in the preparation of hair oils and brilliantines.

36. Castor Oil: It is obtained from the seeds of Ricinus communis (Family : Euphorbiaceae ). It is either yellow in colour or colourless and has a slight odour . Castor oil consists of a mixture of glycosides, in which 80% of ricinoleic acid is the major constituent. At 0°C, it forms a clear liquid. Due to its emollient action, it is used in the preparation of lipsticks, hair oils, creams, and lotions. Olive Oil: It is obtained from the fruits of Olea europea (family Oleaceae). It is either pale yellow or greenish yellow in colour , and has a slight odor. Olive oil consists of glycerides of oleic, palmitic, linoleic, stearic and myristic acids. At low temperature, it gets solidified or partially solidified. Due to its emollient action and soothing properties, it is used in the preparation of creams, lotions, and bath oils.

37. Coconut Oil: It is obtained from the dried solid part of the endosperm of coconut, i.e., Cocos nucifera (family Palmae). It exists as a white or pearl - white unctuous mass in winter and colourless in summer. Light Liquid Paraffin: It consists of a mixture of hydrocarbons and appears as a colourless and odourless oily liquid. Its viscosity and weight per ml (0.83-0.87gm) are low. Due to its better spread ability, it is used in the preparation of bath oils, hair oils, brilliantines, lotions, and creams. Heavy Liquid Paraffin: It is obtained from petroleum. It is a mixture of hydrocarbons, and appears as a colourless and odourless oily liquid. Due to its soothing effect on the skin, it is used in the preparation of creams, lotions, brilliantines, hair oils, and bath oils.

38. WAXES : Waxes are the esters formed by the condensation of high molecular weight straight chain fatty acids with high molecular weight. They are used as a base in cosmetics, along with oils and fats. Some commonly used waxes are:

39. Beeswax: It is a purified wax separated from the honeycomb of bees, Apis mellifera (family Apidae). It is composed of 70% myricyl palmitate ester. It is a yellowish brown coloured solid with honey like odour . Under cold conditions, it turns brittle; and on bleaching, it becomes a yellowish-white solid with faint characteristic odour . Its melting point is 62-65°C. Beeswax helps in water incorporation to form an emulsion. Carnauba Wax: It is obtained from the leaves of the Brazilian wax palm, Copernica cerifera (family Palmae). It is available in various grades, with the highest grade existing as light -brown to pale -yellow in colour . It occurs as moderately coarse powder or flakes with a characteristic bland odour . Its melting point ranges from 81 -86°C. Carnauba wax is hard and is used in the manufacture of candles, wax varnishes, and leather and furniture polishes.

40. Paraffin Wax: It is obtained by the distillation of petroleum. It is a mixture of solid hydrocarbons, mainly containing n-paraffins, and their isomers to some extent. Thus, it is also called hard paraffin wax. It is colourless , odourless , or a white, translucent, wax -like solid, and is slightly greasy to touch. Its melting point ranges from 50-57°C. Spermaceti: It is a solid wax obtained from the head, blubber and ear case of the sperm whale, Physeter catodon (family Physeteridae). It consists of cetyl palmitate and cetyl myristate spermaceti in a solid wax, which is a translucent crystalline, pearly-white, unctuous mass with a slight odour and taste. It melts at a specific gravity of about 0.94.

41. Spermaceti is also available synthetically and consists of a mixture of esters of saturated fatty alcohols and saturated fatty acids. Synthetic spermaceti occurs as white to off white translucent flakes with a crystalline structure and a pearly lustre . Its melting point ranges from 43-47°C.

42. COLOURS : Humans are using colours in cosmetics since ancient times. The desire to buy a cosmetic product is controlled by three senses, i.e., sight, touch, and smell. Thus, colour is an important ingredient of cosmetic formulations. Some commonly used natural colours in cosmetics are: Cochineal: It is a red dyestuff obtained from the dried female insect, Dactylopius coccus (family Coccidae ). The main colouring consti tuent in cochineal is carminic acid, which forms red needles on crystallisation ; these needles darken at 130°C and carbonise at 250°C. Cochineal is extracted with water, and alum is added to this solution to precipitate carmine lake (the red aluminium salt).

43. Saffron: It is the stigmas and tops of the styles of the plant, Crocus sativus (family Iridaceae). It is a perennial plant grown in Jammu and Kashmir. Saffron powder is yellowish and easily soluble in water, thus is used as flavouring and colouring agent in food preparations. It consists of a few carotenoids, of which crocin is an important natural saffron carotenoid. Picrocrocin is a colourless bitter glycoside that imparts a characteristic odour to saffron. Chlorophyll: It is the natural green pigment abundantly found in nature. It is responsible for photosynthesis.

44. PERFUMES : Some commonly used perfuming agents in cosmetics are: Rose: It is obtained by steam distillation of the flower petals of Rosmarinus officinalis (family Labiatae). For obtaining rose oil, the blossoms (before they open) are collected a little before sunrise. Jasmine Essential Oil: It is obtained from the flowers of Jasminum grandiflorum (family Oleaceae). For obtaining jasmine oil, solvent extraction method is used. It is used in perfumery industries. Lavender Oil: It is obtained from the flowers and stalk of Lavandula officinalis (family Labiatae). Tuberose Oil: It is obtained from Epimedium acuminatum (also known as mistress of the night). Its oil is a brown, viscous liquid with a sweet, heavy and sensuous scent.

45. Geranium Oil: It is obtained by distillation of the flowers, leaves and stalks of Pelargonium graveolens (family Geraniaceae ). Champa Oil: It is obtained from the flowers of Michelia champaca . Cinnamon Oil: It is obtained from the different parts of cinnamon tree, i.e., leaves, barks, and roots of Cinnamon zeylanicum (Family: Lauraceae ). The oil obtained from the bark is of utmost value, and has a warm, spicy and sweet character. Neroli Oil: It is an essential oil obtained by distillation of the flowers of bitter orange tree. It can be stored in amber- coloured bottles under refrigeration.

46. ANTIOXIDANTS : Natural antioxidants (like tocopherols), present in fats and oils, are destroyed during the refining process. Hence, antioxidants should be essentially added in cosmetics to avoid the rancidity of fats and oils due to oxidative deterioration.

47. Tamarind: Tamarindus indica (family Fabaceae) is widely grown in tropical regions. Tamarind seeds exhibit radical scavenging, anti -microbial and lipid peroxidation reducing activities. Due to its antioxidant activity, tamarind is added in anti-wrinkle cosmetics. Vitamin C: It prevents free r adical damage by donating free radicals. It boosts up the immune system. Carrots, peaches, sweet potatoes, oranges, broccoli, etc. are the major sources of vitamin C. Vitamin E: It is known as scavenger of free radicals. It is beneficial against certain types of cancer and cardiac problems. Almonds, nuts, whole cereal grains, vegetable oils, etc. are the major sources of vitamin E.

48. Pomegranate: The extract of pomegranate plant, Punica granatum, exhibit antioxidant and antiviral properties, and enhance the Effectiveness of topical sunscreens. Pomegranate seed oil exhibit chemo preventive activity against skin cancer. Pomegranate peel extracts foster dermal regeneration. Pomegranate seed oil fractions facilitate epidermal regeneration. Resveratrol: It is a polyphenolic phytoalexin compound, present in the skin and seeds of grapes, berries, peanuts, and other foods. It is a potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-proliferative agent. It has been found to prevent skin cancer and other conditions generated by the sun. Ferulic Acid: It is a potent antioxidant that provides photoprotection to skin, and is thus added in sunscreens, cosmetic lotions, and other skin products. It is also believed to act synergistically with vitamins C and E and β-carotene.

49. PROTECTIVE AGENTS : Silicones are added as protective agents in the formulation of creams. Silicones combined with other barrier agents, like petroleum jelly beeswax, paraffin, etc., can formulate excellent barrier creams.

50. BLEACHING AGENTS : Silicones are added as protective agents in the formulation of creams. Silicones combined with other barrier agents, like petroleum jelly beeswax, paraffin, etc., can formulate excellent barrier creams.