Introduction to textile testing presentation

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2. Introduction Submitted To: Dr. Habib Awais Submitted By: Hafiz Usama ,Hamza, Hammad , Ghayyas Registration: 20-ntu-ba-1428,1550, 012-kc,1443 Course: Introduction to Textile testing and quality control Semester : BSTMM 8 th Department: Textile Management and Marketing 2

3. Table of Content Fabric Fault or Defect Fabric Inspection American System (4 point system) Major & Minor Defects Woven Fabric Faults Knitted Fabric Faults Conclusion References 3

4. Fabric fault and Their Remedies 4 Fault / Defect An imperfection that impairs worth or utility Want or absence of something necessary for completeness or perfection A fault that spoils the material Fabric Defect A Fabric Defect is any abnormality in the Fabric that hinders its acceptability by the consumer

5. Fabric Inspection 5 ”Activities such as Measuring, Examining, Testing, Gauging , one or more characteristics of a product or source comparing these with specific requirements to determine conformity” Visual examination of fabric in relation to some standards, specifications or requirement. T he most commonly used systems for the fabric i.e. American System (4 point system)

6. Fabric Inspection 6 In inspection following points are checked, EPI PPI Width and Length of fabric GSM Weave design Types of Fabric Faults Major and Minor Mendable and non-mendable

7. Fabric Inspection Table 7

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9. American System (4 point system) 9 o Widely used for fabric inspection Size of defect Points Up to 3 inches 1 From 3 inches to 6 inches 2 From 6 inches to 9 inches 3 More than 9 inches 4 Hole up-to 1 inch 2 Hole over 1 inch 4

10. 10 point system In this system, the fabric fault are identified with points on the basis of the scale of 10. i.c . fabric will be rejected. In this system the maximum defect point is 10. According to this system. If the total defect points per 100 yards of fabric are 100 or more the warp & weft direction faults are separately inspected and assigned defect points. 10 10

11. Defect point Chart Warp defect Penalty points Up to 1“ 1 points From 1" to 5” 3 points From 5" to 10" 5 points From 10” to 36" 10 points Weft defect Penalty points Up to 1” I points From 1" to 5" 3 points From 5" to full width 5 points Full width 10 points 11

12. Some general rules for 10 points Not one meter of cloth is penalized more than 10 points. Any defect occurring repeatedly throughout the entire piece is marked second. Combination of warp and weft defect running is one meter should not be penalized more than 10 points in the meter. Cloth is inspected on face side only unless specified. 12

13. Dallas system The Dallas system was introduced in the 1970s and it was developed particularly for knitted fabrics. According to this inspection method, if any fault was observed on a finished garment garment would he called ‘seconds. It describes the seconds as more than one defect per ten linear yards, determined to the nearest ten yards*. For example, one piece 60 yards long would be allowed to have six defects. Disadvantage of Dallas system It increases the cost of production as defect is located after the garment is finished 13

14. Major & Minor Defects 14 o Major Defects:-Those defects which are clearly visible and may cause sample to be second . o Minor Defects:-Those defects that are not clearly visible and don’t cause the fabric to be a second. o Second:-It is a defected fabric that affects the salability and service ability of the sample/item.

15. WOVEN FABRIC FAULTS 15

16. Woven fabric faults Missing Pick Oil and other stain Oily ends Oily picks Reed mark Slough off Shuttle smash Snarls Stitches Untrimmed loose threads Weft bar Coloured flecks Knots Slub Broken ends woven in a bunch Broken pattern Double end Float Gout Hole, cut, or tear Lashing-In Local distortion 16

17. Coloured Flecks 17 Presence of coloured foreign matter in the yarn. Causes Cotton fibres getting contaminated during the ginning stage with leaves, immature fibre, yellow fibre, etc. Remedies Coloured portion is removed from the yarn with a plucker. The resultant bare patch can be corrected by combing with metallic comb.

18. K no t s 18 Knot is a fastening made by tying together the ends of yarn Causes o Thread breaks during process of winding, warping, sizing or weaving . o Remedies o Non Mendable.

19. Slub 19 o A bunch of yarn having less twist or no twist and has a wider diameter compared to normal spun yarn. o Causes o Improper carding/combing. o Broken tooth in the chain of gear system . o Remedies o The slub should be cut with the clipper from both the ends. The resultant bare patch can be corrected by combing with a metallic comb or by insertion of a separate thread with the help of fine needle.

20. Broken pattern 20 A broken pattern is the non continuity of a weave/ design/ pattern . Causes Wrong drawing in of threads. Incorrect shedding . Remedies Non Mendable. preventions Regular loom maintenance . Proper yarn selection Quality control checks

21. Broken Ends woven in a bunch 21 This defect is caused by a bunch of broken ends woven into the fabric . Causes o Failure of the weaver in attending the warp breaks properly . o Remedies o The broken ends woven in a bunch can be removed by using a plucker and the resulting loose ends should be cut with clipper. As a result, a bare patch occurs and combing in both directions with a metallic comb can fill this up.

22. Double end 22 When two or more ends gets woven as one. This defect is characterized by a thick bar running parallel to the warp. Causes o Wrong drawing, taking more ends in heald eye. o Remedies o This fault can be corrected by pulling out the extra end with the help of needle. A bare patch is formed and can be filled by combing in both directions with the help of metallic comb. Preventions Proper Warp Handling Meticulous Drawing-in

23. Fl o at 23 Float is the improper interlacement of warp and weft threads over a certain area. Causes o Improper sizing (ends sticking) . o Broken end entangling with the other ends . o Remedies o Only minor floats can be rectified. The floating threads are cut with a clipper . Combing in both direction rectifies the resultant patch .

24. Gout 24 Gout is a foreign matter accidently woven into the fabric. Causes Improper loom cleaning. Unclean environment . Remedies The extra foreign matter can be pulled out with a plucker. Combing in both direction rectifies the resultant patch .

25. Hole, Cut, Tear 25 This is self explanatory . Causes Sharp edges on cloth roll. Hard substance between layers of fabric in cloth roll Course temples used for fine fabric . o During removal of hard particles like, Iron particles woven in the cloth . o Remedies o Non mendable . Preventions o Careful Handling Fabric Selection Proper Garment Construction

26. Missing Ends 26 The fabric is characterised by a gap, parallel to the warp. The number of ends missing may be one or more. Causes Loom not equipped with warp stop motion. Dirty drop wires or accumulation of lint may prevent their dropping. o In electric warp stop motion, the electric bars are dirty or corroded. o Remedies o When there are only two adjacent ends missing, the fault can be rectified by combing in both directions using a metallic comb. This may fill the bare patch formed due to missing ends.

27. Missing Picks 27 A narrow streak running parallel with weft threads caused due to absense of weft. Causes Faulty let-off and take-up motion. Faulty weft-stop motion. Fell of the cloth not adjusted after loom stoppage for mending. Remedies When there are only two adjacent picks missing, the fault can be rectified by combing in both directions using a metallic comb. This may fill the bare patch formed due to missing ends.

28. Untri m med L oo s e Threads 28 Any hanging threads on the face of the fabrics are termed as loose threads. Causes Tail ends not trimmed after piecing up. Remedies These defects can be easily rectified with the help of clipper.

29. Weft Bar 29 An unwanted bar, running across the full width of a piece which differs in appearance from the adjacent normal fabric. Causes Difference in count, twist, colour, lustre. Faulty let-off and take-up motion. Remedies Non mendable

30. Shuttle Smash 30 Ruptured cloth structure characterised by many broken warp ends and floating picks. Causes Improper timing. Insufficient picking force. o Slack ends in certain portion. The sagging ends obstructs shuttle flight. o Remedies o Non mendable. Preventions o Regular Loom Maintenance Proper Warp Tensioning Quality Shuttle Inspection

31. Lashing In 31 An extra piece of yarn woven into the fabric in the vicinity of the selvedge. Causes Defective setting of the shuttle box. Early or late picking. o In case of auto loom, weft cutters worn out or not set properly o Remedies o This defect can be corrected by pulling out the extra pick from the selvedge end, which can be clipped with the help of clipper. A bare patch is formed and can be filled by combing in both directions with the help of metalic comb.

32. Oily Ends 32 These are oily warp ends. Causes Improper handling and storage of material in spinning department. Oil-contaminated guides and oily hands during process of warping. Improper handling of warp beams. Remedies Keep the stained portion of the fabric over an absorbent pad. Apply the stain remover, wetting the stain and surrounding portion throughly. Rub gently to quicken the penetration of the stain remover. Rubbing should be done towards the centre of stain to avoid spreading. Note: Delicate fabric needs reduced pressure, otherwise, hole formation or displacement of the fabric will occur.

33. Local Distortion 33 A Distortion occurs when there is displacement of warp and/or weft threads from their normal position. Causes o The emery roll is worn out. o In filament fabric having low reed picks. o Remedies o This defect can be corrected by combing in both directions using a metalic comb.

34. Slough Off 34 A slough-off is a bunch of weft woven into the fabric. Causes Improper winding of the yarn onto the weft pirn. Improper shape and size of the pirn. Harsh picking. Remedies The bulk yarn can be pulled out by means of plucker. Combing in both direction with help of mettalic comb can fill up the resultant bare patch.

35. Shuttle Marks 35 A width wise mark due to abrasion of warp yarn by the shuttle. Causes Improper Shedding . Remedies Non Mendable.

36. Reed Marks 36 A warp way crack caused by a damaged or defective reed. Causes Defective or damaged reed Remedies Non Mendable.

37. KNITTED FABRIC FAULTS 37

38. Barrie A fabric defect characterized by textural bands or colour bands in the course direction of a weft knitted fabric. Visible after dyeing Causes Use of irregular yarn having higher long term irregularities. Using different count thread. Remedies Non Mendable. 38 Preventions Regular Machine Maintenance Synchronized Machine Speeds:

39. Bunching Up 39 Appeared as beads or irregular surface. This is largely influenced by take-up mechanism and whether it functions properly or not. Causes Fabric take-up too weak. Thick place in yarn. Remedies Non-mendable 39 Preventions Precise Tension Control Proper Knitting Techniques Regular Machine Maintenance Following Knitting Patterns

40. Drop Stitch 40 Un-knitted stitch, Needle cast off the old loop with no new yarn in the hook. Local column of dropped stitches. Row of dropped stitches in a wale is called Run/Ladder (Continuous knitting with broken needle) Causes Yarn guide not set properly (i.e. yarn is not fed properly during loop formation). Defective latch needle. yarn tension is not sufficient. High yarn tension Take-down is too high. Wrong yarn threading. Remedies This fault can be corrected by stitches reforming using a simple needle. Can be avoided by: Precise yarn-guide setting. Needle change. o Dial position read j ust m en t . Use of fabri c faul t detector. 3 6

41. Cloth Fall-out It is an area of consisting of drop stitches lying adjacent to one an other. It occurs after drop stitches. Causes Group of 3 to 4 needles are defective. Yarn carrier is not set properly. Take-down is too high. Wrong yarn threading. Remedies This fault can be corrected by stitches reforming using a simple needle. Can be avoided by: Precise yarn-guide setting. Needle change. Use of fabric fault detector. 37

42. Holes or Crack 42 Local holes obtained when yarn breaks during loop formation in needle hook. (Large hole in the fabric is called Press-off, Needle get stucked in flat bed machine) Causes Relation between cylinder and dial loop not correct. Weak places in yarn, Which breaks during loop formation Knots. Yarn running tension is too high. Due to slub, thick and thin places High take –up tension Can be avoided by: Use of flat knots. Accurate yarn guide setting. Use of fabric fault detector. Use of yarn having lower hairiness 38

43. Horizontal stripes Are caused by unevenness in the courses. They traverse horizontally and repeat themselves regularly or irregularly. Causes Yarn feeder set badly Differences in the yarn running-in tension. Jerky impulse from fabric take up . Remedies Non mendable. 43 Preventions Maintaining Consistent Tension Using Consistent Needle Size

44. Vertical stripes They can be observed as longitudinal gaps in the fabric. The space between adjacent wales is irregular. Causes Bent needles. Heavily running needles. Damaged latch needle. Damaged needle hook. Damaged dial or cylinder. Can be avoided by: Needles and sinkers change after long time use. Use of fabric fault detector. 44

45. Birds eye/Unwanted Tuck stitch An unwanted knitted stitch that produces tuck or open effect due to the needle having more than one stitch at a time. Causes Bent needles. Damaged latch needle. Damaged needle hook. Needle not raised properly for old loop to cat off Can be avoided by: Needles and sinkers change after long time use. Use of fabric fault detector. 4 1

46. Conclusion In conclusion, the identification and resolution of fabric faults are critical steps in ensuring the quality and longevity of textile products. By addressing issues such as defects, imperfections , and damages promptly , manufacturers can uphold customer satisfaction and preserve brand reputation. Implementing effective remedies, such as quality control measures , repair techniques , and preventive strategies, is essential in minimizing the occurrence and impact of fabric faults. Ultimately, a commitment to continuous improvement and proactive management of fabric quality is key to delivering superior products that meet the expectations of consumers and contribute to the success of textile businesses. 46

47. References https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZE-0Pma_G9o https://textilelearner.net/different-types-of-fabric-faults-causes/ https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2017/08/fabric-inspection-in-textile-and.html https://www.textilesphere.com/2019/10/fabric https://textileinformations.com/different-types-of-knit-fabric-faults/ https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2019/02/classification-of-fabric-defects.html https://www.cottoninc.com/quality-products/textile-resources/fabric-defects-classification/ https://www.scribd.com/doc/109593209/Fabric-Defects 47

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