Kasuti embroidery of Karnataka ppt.pdf

I write about production places, places, techniques community, types, history & origin of kasuti embroidery. I add some points like used fabrics, colors, threads, stiches etc.

1. KASUTI OF KARNATAKA
Submitted to - Shekhar Ma'am
Submitted by - Simran
Class - FD 2nd year
Topic - Indain Textile

2. Kasuti is world famous embroidery of Karnataka state, earlier known as Mysore State.
The Motifs And the art speaks about the traditions, customs, and professions of the
people of Karnataka.
The age of learning and executing Kasuti was common to
royals, aristocrats and peasant women.
It is said that the kasuti resembles the embroidery of Austria, Hungary And Spain.
The word kasuti can be analyzed as "Kai" meaning "hand" and "suti" meaning "cotton
threads", i.e., a hard work of cotton thread in kannad, the language of Karnataka.
Kasuti work which is very intricate sometimes involves putting up to 5,000 stitches by
hand and is traditionally made on dresswear like Ilkal sarees, Dharwad sarees, Ravike
and Angi or Kurta.
Kasuti embroidery of Dharwad is basically done on brighter shades.
The Karnataka Handicrafts Development Corporation (KHDC) holds a Geographical
Indications (GI) protection for Kasuti embroidery which provides Intellectual Property
rights on Kasuti to KHDC.
In the districts of Bijapur, Dharwar, Belgaum, Miraj, Sangli and Jamkhandi, Kasuti
embroidery is extremely famous.
INTRODUCTION

3. The history of Kasuti dates back to the Chalukya period.
This style originated way back in the 7th century in the lands of Western
Karnataka in the regions of Dharwad.
The women courtiers in the Mysore Kingdom in the 17th century were
expected to be adept in 64 arts, with Kasuti being one of them.
Kasuti embroidery is believed to have originated from north Karnataka which
spread all over the region.
The Kasuti embroidery features folk designs influenced by rangoli patterns of
Karnataka.
The embroidery's name, 'Kasuti,' is derived from Karnataka's regional
language, Kannada 'kai', which means hand, and 'suti', meaning cotton.
In olden days, it was a custom that the bride had to possess a black silk sari,
called chandrakali sari with Kasuti work done on it. The five garments on
which the embroidery is done are kunchi (bonnet and cape combined), lenga
(skirt), seragu (pallav of a sari), kusuba (bodice), and kulai (bonnet).
ORIGIN & HISTORY

4. THREADS USED
Silk thread is used in olden days.
Today mercerized cotton thread used such as Kohinoor and Anchor thread.
Two to four strands are used for fine and coarse work respectively according to motif.
Traditionally the thread was drawn from the tassels of the pallav of the saris, to make
the design appear flat, rich and gorgeous.
The needles used to do Kasuti should be made of steel.
The colors most frequently used are red, orange, purple, green, yellow, and blue.
The commonly used combinations are Red-green, red-blue, red-yellow, red-white,
orange-purple, orange-blue, pink-purple, yellow-green, yellow-white.
All bright and contrasting colours to make design appear bold and clear.
White is predominant on a black and dark background.
Blue and yellow are rarely used as a combination because if the contrasting
harmony.
Bright pink, pale green and lemon yellow are hardly used.
COLORS USED

5. MOTIFS USED
FABRIC USED
Fine silk fabric of the sarees was used earlier in addition to this, canvas and matty
fabric is used now.
Aida or other even weave fabric and Khaan
White and black is the most used colour for background fabric.
The motifs used in Kasuti embroidery ranged from mythological and architectural to the beautiful flora and fauna, i.e., gopuras,
palanquine, chariot, shiva-linga, bull
(Nandi), tiger, lamp stand, crown of Shiva (Shivana Basinga), swastika, sun, surya mukhi, conchshell, asanas, Rama's cradle,
snake (Naga devta), elephant, horse,
tulsi vrundavan, Hanuman etc.
Apart from these various types of creepers, foliages, flowers, animals and birds are used.
squirrel, parrot, sparrow, peacock, cock, duck pigeon, swan, deer, are also seen.
Ones are lotus, chrysanthemum, jasmine, rui-phool (cotton flower), cashew nut (Kalka), grapes, kevada, kalawar, diamond,
badam, berseed, black bead, maggihua, marigold, coconut flower, sparrows eye, rudraksha, tulsi leaf, brinjal seed, cardamum,
chess square, flower pot, etc.
One will rarely see horses, lions or tigers but catsa and dogs are never seen.

6. MOTIFS

7. Four types of stitches are used in Kasuti, namely Gavanti,
Murgi, Negi, and Menthi. Some have mixed stitches while
others are worked in one stitch only. Kasuti is done by
counting the number of threads.
Stitches in Kasuti have to be vertical, horizontal or diagonal.
The lines or motifs have to be completed on the return
journey, filling in the blank portions.
The embroidery starts without knotting thread but with a tiny
back stitch.
It can be done only by counting the threads of the weft There
is no possibility of tracing or implanting the design
prematurely as outlines. and the warp.
STITCHES USED

8. NEGI
GAVANTHI
This is a simple more common stitch derived from the Kannada word-Gantu means 'knot'.
It is a double running stitch, in which the first running stitch is filled by the second running stitch on the same
line.
The second one worked exactly opposite to the first one.
The patterns are mostly geometrical since these are worked in vertical, horizontal and diagonal directions.
It is the most common stitch and the designs appear to be identical on both the sides of the fabric.
The lines or motifs are to be completed on the return journey by filling the blank portions in the running stitch.
On the way back while stitching, the lines or motifs should be finished by filling out the white areas in the loop.
This is another stitch in Kasuti. Negi in Kannada means 'to weave' i.e. Negi design has an overall
effect of a woven design.
Negi is nothing but ordinary running or darning stitch.
For larger designs, this stitch is employed by altering the stitch depending on the surface to be
covered.
It is worked in long and short straight lines or floats and therefore the design does not appear
identical on either sides of the cloth.

9. MURGI
MENTHI
This is a zigzag runnings stitch which appears like staircase.
It is same as Gavanti stitch but works in a stepwise manner.
The design appears same on right and wrong side of the material.
The stitches are regular and uniform in length and so the distance between the stitches remain the same.
Designs are produced by grouping the tiny designs on regular intervals and sequences.
Smallest motifs like square, triangle, hexagonal, ladders and flowers are to be practiced so that the
elaborate designs can be worked.
Menthi means the ordinary cross stich.
Menthi in Kannada means 'Fenugreek Seed'.
This cross stitch usually appears heavy as it is used for filling purpose.
This stitch requires more length of thread than the other three stitches.
Similar to Negi, even this stitch does not give same appearance on either sides of the cloth.
It is commonly used to cover up the background areas of the designs.

10. PRESENT DAY SCENARIO
The materials are not limited to Cotton anymore. They have started ranging from Silk to other varieties including Nylon.
Also seen on the drapes of the luxurious Mysore silk and Kanjivaram saree.
Now Kasuti is done on clothes, sarees, salwar suits, dress material, bed covers, sofa covers, cushion covers, pillow covers, door curtains, table cloth,
shopping bags, handkerchiefs and plain saris of silk, cotton or synthetics, salwar suits, yolkes, cuffs, collars, belts, pockets, dupatta, caps, and used as
trimming for children's garments.

11. Gaurang is a renowned designer and textile expert. He is known for his intricate
handwoven dresses that he creates using the finest of fabrics.
Gaurang is a self-taught designer who had a belief in Indian textile art and a passion
to bring the weavers to the forefront.
Niche woven textiles like khadi, uppada, paithani, kanjeevaram, benarasi, patan
patola, kota, Dhakai are championed by the designer.
He has won several awards, including the National Award for Best Costume Designer
for the Telugu film Mahanati and the Best Designer Award for using Indian weaves
and craftsmanship at Lakme Fashion Week.
He is also a member of the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) Board.
Shah has worked with 800 or more weaving artisans in India's South, East, and West,
and has presented traditional designs at Lakme Fashion Show.
His brand, Gaurang saree, is a go-to destination for sarees in India and for handloom
enthusiasts around the world.
GAURANG SHAH

12. ABOUT COLLECTION
At the Lakme Fashion Week 2022, Designer Gaurang Shah will bring to the runway Sindoor a collection
embodying the colours of Earth, Sky, and Fire.
The collection is inspired by the sculptures of South Indian temples, floral and geometrics drawn from
nature.
The beautiful line-up of 40 handwoven dresses will be featured in the collection that will be unveiled on
October 15.
Since time immemorial, Hindu rituals have included vermillion in all its hues. The ensembles will celebrate
the versatility of handlooms, hues from ochre to crimson, ruby to burgundy.
Reds of various tones chosen to create this ensemble add the perfect sparkle to the line-up.
Rich, traditional weaves like Kanjeevaram, Paithan, Banaras, Kota, Uppada, Khadi, and Muslin are fused with
complex gara, Kasuti, aari, chikan, and Kutch embroidery, in this most sustainable collection to date.
Furthermore, these dynamic crafts have been balanced with surface textures of bandhani, shibori,
patachitra, kalamkari, and cheriyal paintings.
The collection primarily features handloom fabrics such as silk, cotton, and chiffon.

13. LAKME FASHION WEEK - 2022
https://youtu.be/fHR5UcM2ibQ?si=1fSGtKYuRq24h5kP