Methods of Fabric Construction

Align to the revised CSEC Textiles, Clothing and Fashion Syllabus

1. Textiles, Clothing &Fashion (TCF) Facilitator: Mrs. C. Christmas Wednesday, July 26, 2017 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics 1 (Adapted)

2. FABRIC CONSTRUCTION 2 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics Wednesday, July 26, 2017 Syllabus reference: Section 1 # 7 (a)- ( c )

3. Introduction When you see the clothes you wear or fabric you use for curtains or bedsheet , have you noticed something different in them? Some fabrics are thick, others are thin, some are plain, others have self-design and some are stiff and others limp. If you examine your clothes, you will find that your inner clothes or underwear are very different from outer clothes. These differences in fabrics are because of their construction. As a young designer you need to be aware of these essential elements to enable to select the appropriate fabric for your projects. Take notes in an organized manner, go through once before doing so. Wednesday, July 26, 2017 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics 3

4. Lesson Objective: At the end of this lesson you should be able to: outline the methods of fabric construction You should be able to give main points and essential supplementary materials, present the information in a systematic arrangement or classification.  4 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics Wednesday, July 26, 2017

5. Fabric Construction Fabrics can be constructed (made) using different methods. They are produced by interlaced/ interlooped /bonded yarns or fibers  and felts made by interlocking fibers . Basically there are three (3) methods by which fabrics are made. They are: knitting process Weaving process; Non- woven process The fabric construction method will give the fabric a specific look, feel and performance. 5 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics Wednesday, July 26, 2017

6. Visualize the three methods, by clicking the link below Wednesday, July 26, 2017 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics 6 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrFBiniEyUI

7. Weaving Weaving is the interlacing of threads; it involves two threads which are crossed over and under each other at right angles. Many types of weave can be created. Selvedge Warp threads Weft yarns 7 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics Wednesday, July 26, 2017 All weaving is done on a loom, with simple weaves being constructed on a SHUTTLE loom & more complex ones on a JACQUARD loom these yarns run along the whole length of the fabric. The warp yarn is also called the Straight grain or Lenghtwise grain. Parallel to the selvedge. It is the strongest grain. The woven edge of the fabric also known as the crosswise grain. It runs horizontal or perpendicular to straight grain.

8. Types of Weaves Plain weave Twill weave Satin weave Wednesday, July 26, 2017 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics 8 Jeans Shirt Dress

9. PLAIN WEAVE The simplest of all weaves, so these fabrics are usually cheap. Fabrics made from this weave are strong and smooth so they are ideal for printing as there are no texture or pattern to detract from the printing. Plain weave fabrics hold shape well and also drape well. The fabric looks the same on both side. Examples of fabrics made from plain weave: Calico Taffeta Muslin Shirting (cotton) Voile Gingham Weaving pattern: Over one , under one . Shirt

10. PLAIN WEAVE VARIATIONS BASKET Two over, two under

11. TWILL FABRIC WEAVE Strong, firm and hardwearing Resists snags There is a clear recognizable diagonal Fabrics that are made from twill weaves are: denim tweed, tartan gaberdine Weaving pattern: Wednesday, July 26, 2017 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics 11 Over two, under two but staggering beginning threads to form a diagonal line. Jeans

12. SATIN WEAVE Under one, over four or more creating “ floats ” with weft yarns

13. SATIN WEAVE VARIATION Sateen Weave Floats on warp yarns

14. Knitting Knitting is the interlocking of loops with a single yarn. There are two types of knit: Weft Knitting Warp Knitting Wednesday, July 26, 2017 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics 14

15. Knitting Process In a knitted garment you will see the following: Courses : These are the series of successive loops lying in crosswise direction. Wales : These are the lengthwise or vertical columns of loops. Wednesday, July 26, 2017 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics 15

16. Knitting processes Weft Knitting These knits are constructed with a single yarn that is fed into knitting machine needles in a horizontal direction , also known as filling yarns . Warp Knitting These fabrics are constructed with yarn loops formed in a vertical or warp direction. Wednesday, July 26, 2017 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics 16 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSlkY5Z6hhM

17. Click to visualize Warp knitting vs. Weft knitting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSlkY5Z6hhM Wednesday, July 26, 2017 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics 17

18. Fabrics of Weft knits and Warp knits Weft knit fabrics 1. Purl knit 2. Rib knit 3. Jersey knit Properties : Heavy, firm; usually has almost no stretch in either direction. Good shape retention; cut edges don't curl. Best use : Tailored garments, like jackets, suits, or sheath dresses. If particular double knit has some crosswise stretch, adjusting pattern (by cutting it slightly smaller in body girth) may be necessary. Read more:  http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4179/how-to-identify-knit-fabrics#ixzz4nm4bMlQm   Follow us:  @ threadsmagazine on Twitter  |  ThreadsMagazine on Facebook Warp knit fabrics 1. Raschel 2. Tricot 3. Crochet Properties : Some lengthwise stretch; almost no crosswise stretch. Usually soft and drapey ; cut edges tend to curl.  Best use : Besides traditional use for lining and lingerie, can be used for blouses and dresses. It's essential to assess stretch of particular tricot for given project. Read more:  http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4179/how-to-identify-knit-fabrics#ixzz4nm5RUnrk   Follow us:  @ threadsmagazine on Twitter  |  ThreadsMagazine on Facebook Wednesday, July 26, 2017 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics 18

19. Non-Woven process Non- wovens are defined as fabric structures produced directly from fibers by bonding or felting. Therefore the yarn stage is skipped. Here, nothing is processed on spindles, looms or knitting machines. There are two methods of non- wovens : 1. Bonding 2. Felting. Wednesday, July 26, 2017 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics 19

20. Bonding Bonded fabrics are made from webs of synthetic fibres bonded together with heat or adhesives . Artificial leather jacket Non-woven bag Non-woven interfacing 20 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics Wednesday, July 26, 2017

21. Felting Wool felt is made from wool fibres matted together using moisture, heat and pressure . They have no grain lines. Hat Coat 21 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics Wednesday, July 26, 2017 Fibres Hat Felt Fabric

22. Summary Fabrics can be made from various methods; Four methods of fabric construction are: Weaving ( interlacing of threads) Knitting (interlocking of loops) Bonding ( web like structure stick together with heat & adhesives) Felting (matted together with heat, moisture and pressure). Methods Weaving 1. Plain 2. Twill 3. Satin There two methods of knitting Warp Knitting (Vertical direction) Weft Knitting (horizontal direction) The two non woven methods are: Bonding. Felting Wednesday, July 26, 2017 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics 22

23. Assessment What have you learn? Use a flow chart to show this. Task- on the worksheet given: Why are knitted garments considered appropriate for winter wear? Why is satin weave not as strong as plain or twill weave? Why is twill weave used for your jeans? • Portfolio entry Mount and label a samples of fabrics made by each method. 23 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics Wednesday, July 26, 2017

24. Assessment cont’d Personal research : What are nap fabrics and how are they produced? https://www.thespruce.com/fabric-definition-of-nap-2978252 Online quiz: Please type the following to gain access. You have advised to redo until you get perfect score. Enjoy join.quizizz.com Wednesday, July 26, 2017 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics 24

25. Thank you 25 CSEC- TCF Syllabus - Section 1: Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics Wednesday, July 26, 2017