Milady ch 1 History and Opportunities updated 2021

History of Cosmetology

1. . MILADY HISTORY & CAREER OPPORTUNITES ICE AGE EGYPT ROMAN & GREEK RENISSANCE MIDDLE AGES WHO WE WERE TO WHO WE CAN BECOME

2. COSMETOLOGY IS ONE OF THE OLDEST PROFESSIONS IN THE WORLD Knowing the history of your profession can help you predict and understand upcoming trends.

3. APPEARANCE ENHANCMENT : Hairstyling, Nails & Esthetics Derived from the GREEK word KOSMETIKOS From the ICE AGE - Oyster shells, Animal hide as hair ties , Tree bark and Berries AND IS DESCRIBED AS COSMETOLOGY IS Figurines of gold and silver, a feathered headdress, clothing, ceramics and wooden objects along with Human Sacrifice

4. Barber surgeons Barbers performed a wide variety of functions at that time. such as: Cutting hair, pulling teeth, perform surgery on minor wounds, amputate limbs or administer leeches. Developed a thriving bloodletting practice from 1100 to 1500. This included the development of barber organizations, entrance into schools to learn the trade and a distinguishing symbol, the barber pole. Pole- staff held to make veins visible Cap- bowl to catch blood Red- blood White- Bandages Blue- Veins

5. THE AFRICANS TRIBAL TRADITION AGE MARTIAL STATUS & POWER HEADDRESSES FOR SOCIAL STATUS & RED EARTH FOR COLORING

6. SERVICE + PRODUCT of Braiding AFRICA Tribal cultures used hair with spiritual significance & power Most elevated part of body- hair was believed to be conduit for gods & spirits to reach the soul Hairdressers were trustworthy members of society Grooming forged meaningful bonds between elders & children No reward, No pay Loose hair = lack of hygiene Decorate with bone, leaves, animal dung, red ochre, ash Some cultures only allowed certain # of braids until married Believed only in cutting hair during full moon Never 2 people on 1 head working, no braiding if pregnant, never done in the open

7. THE EGYPTIANS - First to cultivate Beauty BEAUTY RELIGIOUS EVENTS & BURIALS U se d COSMETICS for : Henna for hair & nails( rich warm red ) Minerals, insects & berries created MAKE-UP GROUND GALENA – Lead ( black mineral ) Mixed with animal fat & sulfur to make KOHL- Help protect eyes from the sun First to use/make infused essential oils

8. of Braiding EGYPT Responsible for inventions like toothpaste, math, paper BUT NOT braids Used braids to show wealth, age, social group Wore braided wigs to hide grey & thinning hair Braided in berries, petals, linen, gold Beeswax, date paste Extensions Sun exposure

9. Chewed herbs, frankincense and licorice root to freshen breath Shaved heads and elaborate wigs; heat, lice, hygiene Beeswax and resin as setting lotion for remedy for balding and greying hair, also used on their mummies Fat from Hippo, Crocodile, Snake, Ibex (goat), Porcupine hair all boiled in water; applied for 4 days Leg of a Female greyhound sautéed in oil with hoof of donkey ……….A s irresistible alive and in the afterlife THE EGYPTIANS - First to cultivate Beauty

10. QUEEN NEFERTITI " The beautiful one has come " One of most powerful women to ever rule 1400 BC Used HENNA PASTE to stain nails M ade her own makeup from GALENA c ustom made oils as HER SIGNATURE SCENTS Crushed the mineral and mixed it with other ingredients such as ground pearl, ruby, emerald, silver and gold leaves, frankincense, and medicinal herbs such as saffron and fennel- Mixed with oil, animal fat, milk/water to dissolve lead- making it easy to spread

11. Black kohl- lead & animal fat Green malachite- copper rocks - JEWELERY -Green Meant Life Red ochre- clay ( red by iron oxide, lips) Employed alchemists to create makeup, enhance her charm and erect a cosmetic factory next to the dead sea Religious requirement to honor the Gods Believed to protect the eyes from common diseases : Thought to be Most Beautiful woman to rule BUT, it was not HER LOOKS but her charm 50 BC QUEEN CLEOPATRA

12. THE CHINESE 1600 BC SHANG DYNASTY 1100 BC ZHOU DYNASTY( CHOU ) Gum Arabic ( sap ) , gelatin, beeswax, egg whites- nail polish (Crimson, ebony) Gold & silver reserved for ROYAL FAMILIES, anyone else wearing then were punished by death Created NAIL POLISH, colors & lengths represented your status

13. of Braiding CHINESE Manchu Dynasty ( 1634 )forced to wear hairstyles to show rank If not followed, it was seen as treason and punished by death; Hair was their culture; shaving showed submission Rice farmers wore “ Queue”; braid down back Not until 20 th century ( 1900s ) were they encouraged to cut braids to cut social ranking Tradition so deeply rooted murder & suicide were committed in their defense ” lose your hair, keep your head; or lose your head, keep your hair”. 

14. JAPAN Used safflower petals to paint eyebrows and eyes ( eye brows were shaved) Bintsuke wax sticks ( chamomile based) were used on the lips and face prior to powder- Primer; As well as for styling hair Rice powder or bird droppings for light skin color Flowers and elaborate hair ornaments were worn to show status

15. THE GREEKS 500 BC " The Golden Age" Hair length showed marital & social status( only slaves had short hair) Vinegar & the sun were used to lighten the hair, olive oil was used for conditioning treatments Cosmetics were used by the rich since pale skin was a sign of prestige & beauty. It showed they were not working outside Adding white lead ( toxic- early death ) or chalk and honey/olive oil based creams made the skin more porcelain

16. Vermillion- red pigment made from ground cinnabar ( Mercury ) Red iron oxide and ochre clay or olive oil with beeswax were used for lips & cheeks Olive oil and charcoal were used as eyeshadow Thought to believe: Opium, pigeon droppings, beet root & spices for Hair loss Eunuchs thought to have no hair loss THE GREEKS 500 BC " The Golden Age" Unibrow was made using dark powder, showing intelligence and purity( young age)

17. What is Cosmetology the study of? What are some reason Africans styled their hair? Who were the first to cultivate beauty? What are some beauty rituals the Egyptians followed? Who were the 2 most influential Egyptian women? What was Kohl made out of? Who were the first to make a nail polish that wasn’t just a stain? What colors were considered Royal during the Zhou Dynasty? How did Geisha girls make their face white? During the Golden Age why was pale skin seen as high society? What are some ways the Greeks wore their hair based off their social status? (ex: Wealthy, Slaves, Military men, Social/Marital )

18. Makeup was imported from China & Germany W as made and applied several times a day, often by slaves COSMETAE - Someone who applies makeup to the wealthy Chalk & white lead( poisonous ) were used to lighten the skin Poppy, rose, wine, cinnabar, red lead & even crocodile dung were used on the cheeks to show wealth & health Saffron, ashes & soot made kohl that lined the eyes, applied with glass, ivory, or bone. Nails were painted with a mixture add from sheep fat & blood THE ROMANS

19. THE ROMANS Facials were made from oils, milk, lentils, flour , vinegar, placenta & ashes of snails to treat sun spots Hair removal was done by plucking, shaving or a resin paste Hair color showed social status: NOBLE- red, MIDDLE- blonde, POOR- black ( cheapest ) Mice, Horse teeth, Bear fat for hair loss Wear wreaths to hide hair loss Perfume was used to show health & hid odor from cosmetics. Made from flowers, leaves, alum, rose , roots & oil

20. of Braiding GREECE & ROME Hairstyles were used to show social status The more elaborate, the higher class Wealthy usually wore braids Men also wore braids in their beards to show wealth or soldier status/rank

21. THE MIDDLE AGES 476 AD- 1450 Rank was shown through hair. Intricate hair & headdresses Less wealthy - short ( less hair, less degree of freedom) Nobles- swore by their hair ( pull out strands & give as present ) Bright, vibrant clothes. Longer clothes symbolized their reign over the social structure Natural eyebrows, white teeth, pale skin, cheek & lip color - No eye color Too much makeup gave the portrayal of a prostitute Avicenna: Steam distillation Islamic Golden age

22. THE RENAISSANCE 1450-1650 Western civilization transitioned from medieval to modern White lead, mercury & VERMILLION-CINNABAR- RED BRICK MERCURY were used to whiten the skin & add color to the cheeks & lips Celebrated the soft, natural, graceful curves of women

23. THE RENAISSANCE 1450-1650 Upper-class had plucked/shaved high hairlines( bigger forehead was a sign of intelligence ) & thin eyebrows Women lighten their hair with saffron, onion skin dye, alum, sulfur & soda Hats with no tops allowed sunlight to heat ingredients while protecting the pale skin

24. THE VICTORIAN AGE Queen Victoria- Education advances, abolished slavery 1837-1901 Most restrictive period for women. Pinching cheeks & biting lips were used for color instead of cosmetics. Zinc oxide was used to whiten the skin. Hair was worn simple and long Masks of honey, eggs, milk, oatmeal, fruit & vegetables used to brighten & soften the natural skin

25. THE 20TH CENTURY Industrialization era brought motion pictures, new trends & the ability to see celebrities with flawless skin, hair & nails January 1, 1901 – December 31, 2000

26. 1901-1910 Max factor Micrometer- measure features for contouring Karl/Charles Nessler

27. 1901-1910 Madame C.J. Walker SARAH BREEDLOVE - factory, hair salon, school 1917- HAIR CULTURISTS UNION OF AMERICA - first national meeting for businesswomen . C. J. Walker Manufacturing Company to the railroad hub of Indianapolis, Indiana. Advertising and marketing became the keys to her success. One of the largest employers of African American women, she carefully screened, groomed, and trained a 3,000-person strong sales force that was motivated by working on commission. In addition to door-to-door sales, Walker sold via mail order, and personally demonstrated her products in churches, schools, and other gathering places .

28. 1920s Marcel Grateau ( Francois Marcel ) Electric version of 1872 iron created Before was heated on gas stove Seen in Bobs/shorter hair; easier than barrel curl Cosmetic & Radio advertising grew 390,000 1927 to 3.2 million 1930 1930s Ralph Evans, Everett McDonough ( machine less perm/ Over night perm)

29. 1930s 1932-Lawrence Gelb First permanent hair color- founded CLAIROL 1935- Max Factor Pancake makeup 1938- Arnold Willat Cold wave ( precursor to modern perm ) 1932- Charles Revson First nail polish; REVLON - Based off of automobile paint

30. 1940s- Texture services ; COLD WAVE 1950s- tube mascara NO MORE POT MASCARA Weekly appts faded away 1960s- Vidal Sassoon Geometric cuts 1970s- French introduced weaving highlights with foil 1980s- Vogue Make-up

31. 1985- Frank Shami First ammonia free haircolor 1998- Creative Nail Design- first pedicure system 21st century- no fade hair color ESTHETICIANS rejuvenate skin Specialization in Day & men only spas/salons - Noel Decaprio - Day Spa

32. The Romans used haircolor to show status; What was a color for the wealthy? In the Middle Ages women often wore makeup on lips and cheeks but not? Why? Who refined steam distillation to create essential oils? What time period did people shave their hairlines/eyebrows? Which time period is most restrictive; bite lips, pinch cheeks? Why did the 20 th century bring trends to the fore front? Who created the first heavily wired Perm? What is Madame CJ Walkers real name? How were marcels heated before electricity? What 2 people created the first machine less perm? Who created Pancake Makeup? Who created the first Cold Wave? Who coined the term Day spa?

33. ENDLESS OPPORTUNITIES. ENDLESS EDUCATION Haircolor Specialist Texture Specialist Hair cutting Specialist Salon Trainer Distributor Sales Consultant Manufacturer Educator Artistic Director - The vision Education Director Cosmetology Instructor Film, Theatrical, Editorial Stylist Creative Director - The work Salon Management