Milady facials

Ch 23 Milady Facials

1. Types. Contraindications. When & Why. Precautions & Steps MILADY FACIALS

2. Client consultation and skin analysis Identify examples of contraindication that prohibit performing facial treatments. Determine the difference between skin type and skin condition. Skin care products used in facial treatments. Massage benefits & techniques. Types of electrical machines used in facial treatments. Galvanic and high-frequency treatments used in facial services. Light therapy & Aromatherapy

3. Besides being very relaxing, facial treatments can offer many improvements to the appearance of the skin. Proper skin care can make oily skin look cleaner and healthier, dry skin look and feel more moist and supple, and aging skin look smoother, firmer, and less wrinkled. A combination of good salon facial treatments and effective, individualized home care will show visible results. THE WHY?

4. Analysis determines skin type, skin condition, and needed treatment. Consultation allows you to ask questions about client’s health and skin care history, and to advise client about needed home-care regimen . Consultation & Skin Analysis Client intake form to determine if client has any contraindications that might prevent skin treatments

5. Isotretinoin (Accutane ® ) Retin-A (Tretinoin ® ), Reno Tazorac , or Differin Pregnancy Metal bone pins or plates Pacemakers or other heart conditions Known allergies CONTRAINDICATION Seizures or epilepsy Use of oral steroids Autoimmune diseases such as lupus Diabetes Use of blood thinners Sensitive, redness-prone skin Open sores, herpes simplex (cold sores) Recent facial surgery or laser treatment 

6. Determine skin type during analysis Read health screening form. Have client change into smock. Seat client in chair. Drape client. Have client remove jewelry. Recline client in chair. Wash hands. Warm cleansing milk and apply. Apply cotton eye pads to client’s eyes. Examine with magnifying lamp . Observe visible pores. Obvious pores: oily skin Lack of pores: dry, or alipidic skin

7. Determine skin type during analysis Oil Dry Normal Combination dry Combination oily Acne

8. Pores are very large in all areas. Acne is considered a skin type because it is hereditary. Presence of numerous, open and closed comedones , clogged pores, and red papules and pustules (pimples). Acne

9. Dehydration Hyperpigmentation Sensitive skin Rosacea Dilated capillaries (telangiectasias, couperose ) ) Analysis of skin conditions

10. Aging skin – indicated by loss of elasticity. Wrinkles may appear. Sun-damaged skin – hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and sagging skin will be present. Aging & Sun damaged skin

11. Review What are some benefits to getting facials? What is the most important part of the service? Why is a record keeping card important? What are some contraindications? What are some skin types? What are some skin conditions? What are some examples of sun damaged skin?

12. Cleansers Cleansing milk Foaming cleansers Toners (fresheners or astringents) Lower pH Remove excess cleanser Hydrate and soothe Categorize Skin care products

13. Mechanical exfoliants Granular scrubs Gommages Microdermabrasion scrubs Chemical exfoliants Salon AHA exfoliants Prior home use required Exfoliants

14. Skin with visible capillaries Thin skin that reddens easily Older skin that is thin and bruises easily Skin being medically treated Acne-prone skin with inflamed papules and pustules When to avoid Mechanical Peel

15. Use keratolytic enzymes that dissolve keratin protein in surface cells Derived from papaya, pumpkin, pineapple, and beef by-products. Cream type Powder type Enzyme Peel

16. Moisturizers- HUMECTANTS & EMOLLIENTS Dry skin- Glycolic acid, Aloe vera, Lactic acid, Ceramides Oily skin- Salicylic acid, Benzol peroxide, Tea Tree, Natural oils NOT petroleum or mineral oil Sunscreens and day protection products Serums and ampoules Massage creams- oil/petroleum Moisturizers & Sunscreens

17. Clay-based – oil-absorbing Cream – contain oils and emollients Gel – used for sensitive/dehydrated skin Masks- Masque

18. Alginate – often seaweed-based Paraffin – used with treatment creams Modelage – beneficial for dry, mature skin Masks

19. Massage is the manual or mechanical manipulation of the head or body by rubbing, pinching, kneading, tapping, and other movements to increase metabolism and circulation, promote absorption, and relieve pain . Basic Facial Massage Techniques Facial massage stimulates blood and lymph circulation, reduces puffiness & plumps up collagen

20. Effleurage - Begin & end with P é trissage Fulling- lift/spread; arms Friction Chucking Rolling Wringing Basic Facial Massage Techniques Rolling Effleurage Petrissage Friction

21. Tapotement Slapping Hacking Basic Facial Massage Techniques Vibration

22. Motor points- Every muscle has a motor point- causes contraction Varied locations Relaxation Effects & Benefits of Massage Skin nourishment Softness and pliability Increased blood circulation Gland stimulation Stimulated and strengthened muscle fibers Soothed and rested nerves Relieved pain

23. Facial steamer Brushing machine Facial Equipment Skin suction/cold spray

24. UNDERSTANDING ELECTROTHERAPY ELECTROTHERAPY is the use of equipment for corrective and therapeutic benefits: Skin firming Deep firming Deep cleansing Germicidal cleansing Hydration Product penetration

25. UNDERSTANDING ELECTROTHERAPY WALL PLATE is a facial stimulator; any facial device that plugs into wall socket Produces currents for electronic facial treatments Reduces electric power through wire conductor so it can be safely handles by the human body

26. UNDERSTANDING ELECTROTHERAPY Currents used in electronic facial and scalp treatments are called MODALITIES Those MODALITIES are: 1- Galvanic currents 2- Microcurrents 3- Tesla high frequency

27. ELECTRODE is a probe; conducts electric current from machine to skin Carbon, glass, metal 2 electrodes: + - UNDERSTANDING ELECTROTHERAPY An electrode is the only safe contact point through which the current can pass to the client

28. UNDERSTANDING ELECTROTHERAPY POLARITY- is the positive or negative state of an electric current

29. Review What is an example of a skin care product? Why is using an exfoliant important? What are examples of the types of masks you can use? What massage technique is an effortless motion? What massage technique is rapid tapping? What are some types of Friction massage techniques? What is an example of facial equipment? What is another name for a electrode? What is the polarity of the electrode?

30. ELECTROTHERAPY- GALVANIC CURRENT Oldest form of electrotherapy Most common Direct current Has a positive and negative pole Products are formulated to carry a + or – charge Basic principle that like charges repel and opposites attract Repelling pushes product into the skin Before extractions: opens pores, helps break up clogged pores After extraction: used to close pores During mask for deeper penetration of product

31. ELECTROTHERAPY- GALVANIC CURRENT

32. ELECTROTHERAPY- GALVANIC CURRENT The process of introducing WATER soluble products into the skin with an electric current is ION TOPHORESIS Forcing an acid or alkali into the skin

33. ELECTROTHERAPY- GALVANIC CURRENT CATAPHORESIS POSITIVE + POLE ANAPHORESIS NEGATIVE - POLE Acidic reactions Closes pores Soothes nerves Decreases blood supply Contracts blood vessels Hardens and firms tissues Using current from POSITIVE towards NEGATIVE Alkaline reaction Opens pores Stimulates/ irritates nerves Increases blood supply Expands blood vessels Softens tissues Forces current from NEGATIVE towards POSITIVE DEINCRUSTATION

34. ELECTROTHERAPY- MICRO CURRENT MICROCURRENT benefits: Blood/ lymph circulations Acid/ alkali reaction Opens/ closes pores Increase muscle tone Elasticity reduces redness/ inflammation Increase skin metabolism MICROCURRENT is an ALTERNATING CURRENT Low voltage Mirrors body's own electrical charge Produces muscle contractions " Natural " face lift

35. ELECTROTHERAPY- TESLA HIGH FREQUENCY TESLA HIGH FREQUENCY – known as violet ray Thermal / heat producing High vibration used for scalp & facial treatments Great for thinning hair , dry skin, itchy scalp

36. ELECTROTHERAPY- TESLA HIGH FREQUENCY Does not produce muscle contractions Stimulating or soothing Only 1 electrode is used at a time 3 applications: DIRECT : directly on skin INDIRECT : client holds active electrode while professional manually stimulates the area being treated GENERAL ELECTRIFICATION – tingling or vibration Produces ozone to kill P.acnes; can not survive in presence of oxygen

37. ELECTROTHERAPY- TESLA HIGH FREQUENCY BENEFITS : Stimulates circulation of blood Aids in elimination and absorption Increases skin metabolism Relieves skin congestion CONTRAINDICATIONS : Can effect neurons Over stimulate Do not use on: pregnant, epileptic, high blood pressure, pace maker No alcohol based creams ( flammable ) 5 min direct 8-15 min indirect Turn off and on

38. LIGHT ENERGY AND LIGHT THERAPY INFRARED LIGHT can be used in hair conditioning treatments and to speed up color processing. Used in spas for relaxation; warming up muscles Longer wave length, penetrates deeper Less energy but more heat than visible light Increases circulation

39. LIGHT ENERGY AND LIGHT THERAPY Application of UV RAYS: Lamps should be 30" and 36" from skin Exposure should begin with 2-3 min Increase to 7-8 min

40. LIGHT ENERGY AND LIGHT THERAPY LIGHT THERAPY Also known as PHOTOTHERAPY Application of light rays for : Wrinkles Capillaries Pigmentation Hair removal

41. LIGHT ENERGY AND LIGHT THERAPY L.E.D . Reduce acne Increase skin circulation Improve collagen Stimulates at different depths of skin tissue Seeks CHROMOPHORE (blood/ melanin)

42. LIGHT ENERGY AND LIGHT THERAPY

43. LIGHT ENERGY AND LIGHT THERAPY INTENSE PULSE LIGHT Multiple colors/ wave lengths Multiple treatments CONSIDERATIONS Sensitivities Antibiotics Epilepsy Cancer Pregnant

44. A type of mechanical exfoliation that involves shooting aluminum oxide or other crystals at the skin with a hand-held device that exfoliates dead cells. Produces fast, visible results. Treats surface wrinkles and aging skin. Requires extensive training. Microdermabrasion

45. Review What are some examples of electrotherapy? Which is the most common? Which one is the strongest? Why is a microcurrent good for someone with sensitive skin? Phototherapy is ________________therapy? What are some benefits to light therapy? What is the purpose of microdermabrasion?

46. Preservative – maintain health of facial skin Corrective – correct some skin conditions such as dryness, oiliness, comedones , aging lines, and minor conditions of acne Using facials for skin types & health

47. Speak quietly and professionally. Explain benefits and answer questions. Provide quiet atmosphere. Work quietly and efficiently. Maintain clean environment. Follow systematic procedures. Warm hands. Keep nails smooth and short. Analyze skin. Guidelines for facials

48. Dry skin – caused by insufficient flow of sebum Oily skin – caused by hardened masses of sebum in sebaceous glands Limited measures for acne: Reducing oiliness; working under medical supervision

49. More men are having facial treatments than ever before. Always moving with the pattern of the beard Usually these are downward and outward movements. Use sponges instead of cotton pads on a man’s face. Cotton will get caught in beard hair. Facials for men

50. Aromatherapy Use of essential oils that improves the efficacy of many skin care preparations. Enhances physical, emotional, and mental well-being.

51. Review What are the 2 kinds of facials? Corrective and? Give some examples of the guidelines to follow? What are some things to consider for male guests? What are some benefits of aromatherapy?