Moisturizers and Humactants

Moisturizers and Humactants

1. Role of moisturizers and humectants in dry skin Presented by, Mr. Akash U. Thakur M. Pharm II nd sem Dept. of Pharmaceutics DBCOP Besa, Nagpur. Guide, Dr. Mrs. U. N. Mahajan Dept. of Pharmacognosy Principal, DBCOP Besa, Nagpur.

2. Contents Moisturizers Care for dry skin Trans-epidermal Water Loss Role of Moisturizers Mechanism of action of moisturizer Uses of moisturizers Humectants Role of Humectants Formulations Reference

3. Moisturizers Moisturizers   are complex mixtures of chemical agents often occlusive help hold water in the skin after application,  humectants   attract moisture and emollients help smooth the skin. They increase the skin's hydration ( water  content) by reducing evaporation. Naturally occurring skin  lipids  and  sterols , as well as artificial or natural  oils ,  humectants , emollients,  lubricants , etc. may be part of the composition of commercial skin moisturizers. They usually are available as commercial products for  cosmetic  and therapeutic uses.

4. For treating  skin dryness , the most appropriate moisturizers are heavier, oil-based moisturizers that contain ingredients such as  antioxidants ,  grape seed oil  or  dimethicone .  For very dry,  cracked skin ,  petrolatum based products are preferable, as they are longer-lasting than creams and are more effective in preventing water evaporation.

5. Care for dry skin During the winter months, it’s important to reach for skin care products that  contain hydrating and nourishing ingredients  that will work hard for your skin to fight the weather’s dehydrating effects. Most moisturizers contain a mixture of three groups: Humectants, Emollients, Occlusive. Humectants - such as glycerin, sorbitol, urea , propylene glycol, alpha hydroxy acids and sugars work by attracting water into the skin cells.

6. Emollients - T he creams, ointments and lotions, work to fill the spaces between rough or peeling skin cells , smoothing the surface of the skin. Think products that contain ingredients like plant and mineral oils, shea and cocoa butter, petrolatum and plant oils like lanolin. Occlusive - which include petrolatum, paraffin and lanolin, form a barrier on the epidermis, preventing water from being lost when the skin is exposed to dry air or wind. Examples include well-known moisturizing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ceramides, essential oils, urea, lactic acid, petrolatum, raw honey and aloe vera .

7. What is Trans-epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) ? When water passes from the dermis through the epidermis and evaporate from the skin’s surface, this known as transepidermal water loss. As the it is in large scale causes dry skin. To maintain desirable levels of TEWL your skin needs both hydration and moisturization. Hydration refers to water content of skin and this can be imparting with the agents known Humectants.

8. An Ideal Moisturizer Should Reduce and prevent further TEWL. Restore lipid barrier, i.e., duplicating and enhancing the skin's moisturizing retention mechanisms. Hypo-allergenic , non-sensitizing , fragrance free. Absorbed immediately, providing immediate hydration. Cosmetically acceptable.

9. Role of Moisturizers Moisturizing action : This is the most vital action by which they increase the water content of the SC. Hydration smoothens the skin surface by flattening the “valleys” between the skin contour ridges. It also makes the skin surface soft, more extensible, and pliable. The moisturizing action of emollients is evident maximum 30 min - 1hrs after their use and usually lasts for 4 hrs. Anti-inflammatory action : Many moisturizers inhibit the production of pro-inflammatory prostanoids by blocking cyclooxygenase activity thus have a soothing effect on inflamed regions.

10. Antimitotic action : Moisturizers containing mineral oils have low-grade anti-mitotic action on the epidermis and thus are useful in inflammatory dermatitis like psoriasis, where there is increased epidermal mitotic. Antipruritic action : This reducing the itching. Further more, cooling effect evaporation of water from the skin surface after using water based moisturizers has antipruritic effect.

11. Protective action : These days sunscreens with variable sun protection factor are incorporated in the moisturizers providing additional sun protection. Miscellaneous actions : Quality of life improvement: Having a smooth and hydrated skin plays a good role in our social life and psychological satisfaction. Antimicrobial action: Act against skin surface microbes. Wound healing: Hyaluronic acid is known to play a role .

12. Mechanism of action of moisturizer 1. Increasing water diffusion from the living cells of epidermis into the horny layer through the barrier. This can achieved by chemically disrupting the epidermal barrier in the lowermost horny layer. 2. By adding water directly from outside, or by strengthening of lipid framework in the stratum corneum to maintaining the hydration level of skin. 3. By occluding the surface to prevent evaporation of water and increases the water holding capacity of stratum corneum which gives plasticity to the skin. Fig. Mechanism of action of moisturizer in prevention of TEWL

13. Examples Hydrocarbon oils and waxes. e.g. Mineral oil, petroleum, paraffin microcrystalline wax. Silicone oils. e.g. water and alcohol soluble silicone glycol copolymers. Triglyceride esters. e.g. vegetable & animal oils and fats. Fatty acids. e.g. cetyl alcohols. Lanolin and derivatives. e.g. lanolin, lanolin oil, lanolin wax, lanolin alcohol, lanolin fatty acids Sterols. e.g. C holesterol, cholesterol fatty acids esters.

14. Uses of moisturizers Disorders of keratinization . e.g. Ichthyosis . Disorders of dermatosis . e.g. Dermatitis. Maintenance of skin integrity in special population. Miscellaneous uses. e.g. C ontact dermatitis.

15. Humectants Hydrating substance are used in cosmetics products to retard moisture loss and increase the moisture content in skin that is in contact with the products. Target area in the body for treatment with humectants are dry skin. Hydration plays an important role in maintaining the metabolism, enzyme activity, mechanical properties, appearance, and finally barrier function of skin.

16. The special blend of humectants found in the stratum corneum is called as natural moisturizing factor (NMF). The NMF is formed from the protein filaggrin, mutation in filaggrin gene have been identified as the major predisposing factor for atopic eczema. The water binding capacity of sodium salt of lactic acid and 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid (PCA) appear to be higher than that of glycerin and sorbitol. The humectants solutions shows that the water held by corneum decrease in following order sodium PCA > sodium lactate > glycerin > sorbitol.

17. ROLE OF HUMECTANTS Without getting to technical, the key functionality of a humectant, is to form hydrogen bonds with molecules of water. humectants are considered an important ingredient for a dry,  dehydrated skin . The reason adding a humectants to  due to they ability to attract water like a magnet, chemically binding water to them.

18. Butylene glycol Butylene glycol means 1,3-butanediol,but the term can also be used for 2,3- butanediol. The alcohol is a viscous, colorless liquid with sweet flavor and bitter aftertaste. It is soluble in water, acetone, and castor oil. Uses It is used as a humectant in topical products and solvent for injectable products.

19. Sorbitol Sorbitol is hexahydric alcohol white crystalline powder, odorless and having fresh and sweet taste. It is most commonly available as 70% aqueous solution, which clear colorless, and viscous. used as a laxative

20. The importance of glycerin in skin care products is well established. Glycerin not only attracts water but also has been suggested to modulate the phase behavior of stratum corneum lipids. The mode of action of glycerol on both stratum corneum hydration and epideramal barrier. Glycerol is transported very slowly into the epidermis and it’s transport rate is sensitive to the intrinsic glycerol permeability of the basal keratinocyte layer. Glycerin -

21. Propylene Glycol Propylene glycol is clear, colorless, viscous liquid . Propylene glycol has been used in the treatment of skin disorder including dermatitis , due to its humectant, antibacterial and antifungal properties.

22. Cream Moisturizer - Moisturizering Lotion -

23. Sr. No. Ingredients Quantity Uses 1 Lanolin alcohols 10% Moisturizer 2 Lanolin 20.0 Absorption base 3 Mineral oil 35.0 Reduce the tacky feel of lanolin alcohol 4 Water 34.0 Solvent 5 Perfume 0.5 Imparting Fragrance Cream Moisturizer -

24. Moisturizering Lotion - Sr. No. Ingredients Quantity Uses Part A 1 Lanoline 1.00 % Prevent dryness ,itchy etc. 2 Mineral oil(65/75) 12.00 % Reduce water loss from the skin. 3 Pectin 1.00 % Increases the thickness of the aqueous (water) portion of cosmetics Part B 4 Boric acid 2.00 % Prevent or retard bacterial growth 5 Cetyl tri-methyl ammonium bromide 0.16 % Cleanse the skin or to prevent odor 6 Water 83.74 % Solvent 7 Perfume 0.10 % To produce Aroma

25. Reference Martin M. Reiger “Harry’s Cosmeticology” Chemical Publishing Co.,Eighth Edition, Volume 1 of 2, Page no. 261–271. Andre O. Barel , Marc Paye , Howaerd I. Maibach “Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology” CRC Press, Fourth Edition, Page no. 93–100. Hilda Butler, “ Poucher’s ” Springer International, 10 th Edition, Page no. 427-428.

26. 29 Any Questions ???