Mr. Ige Ramos - Book Design for Food: From Plate to Print

Desig
n for Food: Fr om Plate to Print
DINE CEBU
I
GE RAMOS
B
ook Designer • Food Writer • Visual Artist

ANVIR
THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL?S KITCHEN
Philippine Culinary Vignettes
and Period Recipes
1521-1935
Felice Prudente-Sta. Maria
THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL?S KITCHEN
Meet Ah Sing, cook of Governor-General William Howard Taft at Malaca?ang Palace in 1901, and Asing,
cook of Jose Rizal at his Hong Kong home in 1892.
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make bologna sausage following a handwritten recipe found among his personal papers.F
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from private collections never seen before.
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which is to Manila what the Sling is to Singapore.
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Agapito Makapinggan, and the serious efforts to teach good manners through classroom drama.
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T
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4RMSMTTMRP'YSMREV]NMKRPXXPWERH4PVMSH6PGMTPWFelice Prudente-Sta. Maria The Governor-General’s Kitchen: Philippine Culinary
Vignettes and Period Recipes, 1521-1935
Felice Prudente Sta. Maria
Anvil Publishing, 2006
National Book Award for Culinary History Natonal
Book Award for Best Design, 2006 Gourmand World
Book Award 2007

4
George Barbier
Nik Ricio

5fast at six or seven, lunch at noon, afternoon break
around four (when government offices closed),
dinner between six and seven adjusting officially
to a different schedule summertime. The Protes-
tant Work Ethic was preached in schools along
with the rhyme, ?Early to bed and early to rise
makes Juan healthy, wealthy and wise?; yet stub-
born clans clung to Iberian manners.
Contemporary Filipinos use an international
m?lange of designations for mealtime. The day
begins with what is commonly called , or break-
fast; this is followed by a coffee break in offices
or a snack at schools; , or lunch occurs midday,
mid-afternoon; the evening repast is , dinner (the
word no longer being used to mean noon meal) or
supper.
THE RICE REQUIREMENT
Sea-faring Malayan adventurers trickled into
Philippine waters continuously over centuries
forcing earlier nomadic Negrito settlers upland.
New coastline settlements introduced
ingredients to the pre-Spanish diet:
rice, sugarcane, coconut, banana, bam-
boo, taro, jackfruit, tamarind, , lime, ,
bottle and sponge gourd, , bittermel-
on, lemongrass, garlic and breadfruit.
They provided chili-dipping sauces,
turmeric-colored coconut milk stews,
vinegar, palm wine and sugary sweets?the food
of Lapu-Lapu and other chiefs encountered by the
Magellanic circumnavigation of 1521.
Sustenance at the time of the Conquest was
simple, consisting generally of boiled rice, some-
times Aavored with sh or vegetables and capped
by the daily sweetmeat, sugarcane. Moistening
rice with a sauce or honey was referred to as . The
habit of eating a fruit or sweet on the side, origi-
nally to counter unpleasant Aavor, was termed . A
vegetarian meal lacking rice and sh was referred
to as ; to eat rice with broth, or ; and to eat with-
out rice, (in Ilocano) and (inMaranaw). An all-rice
repast was referred to as Hong Kong governor, Sir
John Bowring, in his 1859 book, , characterized
the commoner?s meal:
Rice is the ordinary food of the Indians?. The
capsicum, or chile, is used for a condiment. They
eat three meals a day out of a large dish, helping
themselves with their fingers, and sometimes using a
plantain for a plate. They also have sauces round the
central dish, into which they dip the [cooked rice].
They introduce the thumb first into the mouth and
very dexterously employ the fingers to push for-
ward the food.
In the Philippines, as in many parts of main-
land Asia, the word for ?to eat? ( in Tagalog; in
Hiligaynon and Cebuano) is very similar to the
word for cooked rice ( in Tagalog; in Hiligaynon
and Cebuano). In China one does not ask ?Have
you eaten?? but ?Have you had rice?? ?? the for-
mer query in Tagalog, is indeed similar to ?? the
latter. Pilipino researchers at the Bureau of Na-
Planting rice .... (Collection of the author)
tinim dolor adio el dolore core facing el ing etuer iril nonsed modipis dolut-
pat, quatueriusto dipis nos ea feu feugue miniametum dolobor alit adip.
tional Language interviewed in 1984 say there is
no linguistic connection between the two Tagalog
words. The popular imperative, ?? (Eat that), they
say, is purely a wrong conjugation of the verb , and
should instead be ??.
However, Agustinian priest, Andres Carro,
discovered the trend when he prepared his Ilo-
kano-Spanish dictionary in 1888: , ?to eat?, is
also translated as ?rice?. Jose Villa Panganiban?s
dictionary-thesaurus, begun in 1935 and released
in 1972, likewise de nes as, rst, the staple, and
secondly, the verb. While Spanish and English
words for mealtime substituted or augmented na-
tive nomenclature, never replaced native verbs
for ?to eat?.
THE SILENT CONQUEST
King Felipe II was reputedly concerned with
spreading the Word to Asian Moslemland; he
never endeavored a serious culinary conquest. Yet
Spain?s profound effect on Island cuisine is an ir-
reversible enrichment. If Spain made no concerted
effort to evoke a kitchen crusade, Filipinos per-
haps sought it out, adapting the strange tastes to
suit their preferences. Indo-Malayan savors wed
European Aavors. Filipinos were ripe for a gusta-
tory blossoming.
During Spain?s stay of almost four centuries,
there were barely enough foreigners to work a
culinary campaign. Ever since the sixteenth cen-
tury, Island climate was adjudged fatal to His-
panic metabolism. Over twenty years, noted one
critic, 15,000 Spaniards arrived in the Philippines;
14,000 of them died and the remainder were of
questionable health, humor and sanity! Spaniards
remained generally less than one percent of the
Archipelago?s entire population.
Although Spanish women were encouraged to
join their husbands in the New Colony, there was
a dearth of them. Poor Spanish soldiers married
common Filipinas. Yet, half-breeds were few. In
1903, there were only 15,419 Filipinos with any
Oriental or Occidental blood-ties?about 0.2 per-
cent of the entire national sum! How did barely a
percent of the population manage to change cook-
ing as it did? Especially during Spain?s incum-
bency when public education was limited, read-
ing matter scarce, inter-island transport compara-
tively restricted, and signi cant official banquets
isolated from the masses.
Many Spanish and upper-class homes em-
ployed native help?but that meant male domes-
tics, since women were encouraged to stay close
to home. Servants were the premiere natives to
taste and cook the fare of Spain?s ships, religious
orders and army officers. If we are to believe Jose
Rizal?s unnished historical novel on Tagalog no-
bility, those who rst served the friars were child
royalty. Their tutelage was propagandized as a
privilege, although, in some ways, it was a hos-
tageship (like America?s system in the restless
early 1900s), and certainly part of a concerted ef-
fort to humble the princes.
When servants returned home, they not only
showed off their new wardrobe and fractured
Spanish but, most likely, their culinary surprises.
Those who could produce foreign fare and His-
panized native dishes were adjudged eventually
as good cooks?just like Andalucian chefs who
Ser vant girl. Utat. Reet etuer amet, quamet lorper susci tem vul-
lummy nisl exerat. Ed tinim dolor adio el dolore core facing el ing
etuer iril utat. Iduis nonsed modipis dolutpat, quatueriusto dipis
nos ea feu feugue miniametum dolobor alit adip.
The Governor-General’s Kitchen
A AK
there is no hunger in Paradise ooking, according to Bicol legend, was a gift from Dinahon, a pygmy whose
name means ?wrapped in leaves?. Throughout the country, cooking is a skill
that was mythologically awarded by gracious gods simultaneously with their
gift of rice culture.
The earliest cooking unit is the open Are. Among Tasaday food gather-
ers the term fadaga, ?to cook?, is derived from the Manuvu word fadaigan,
to burn. Bicolano, Hiligaynon, Ilocano, Cebuano, Tagalog and Waray share a common word for
open Are: dapog. The most primitive cooking mode is to drop a raw object into the ames. Even-
tually it is realized that avors and textures are dependent on the distance ingredients stay from
the Are, and on how long they are subjected to heat. Another method is to dig a pit in the ground
for a Are and to cook under, in, or above smoldering embers.
Even today, rural cooks in remote areas build their cooking Are amidst a three-stone cir-
cle. This trivet is called lila or tungko in Tagalog, taluhong in Bicolano, sig-ang in Hiligaynon,
kalseng in Pangasinan, bawangen in Maranaw, sug-ang in Cebuano and Waray, as well as tung-
ku in Kapampangan (which it also is in Bahasa and Malaysian). The tungko is the Arst Philippine
stove.
Dinahon?s gift is not simply a talent but a technology. Among the Neolithic inventions ac-
credited to this culture hero of the Handiong epic are the kalan stove, tapayan water container,
koron jar and paso cooking pot or bowl. Dinahon?s kitchen simultaneously required pottery skills.
Not only would his recipients (who lived from 6,000 to 500 B.C. in the Philippines) have practiced
swidden agriculture, they additionally cultivated taro and banana, and they domesticated animals
as hunting helpers and protein-Aller.
It is impossible to determine when Islanders began to value food and its preparation for their
spiritual connection; but as with Greek vestal Ares, smoke was essential to an early indio?s com-
munion with both the good and the malevolent supernatural. Taosog require that visitors to a
newborn Arst tarry near a Are so the smoke will exorcise them; yet a witchdoctor would hang a
victim?s clothes in a pot above cooking res in

order to suffocate the enemy. When preparing rit-
ual viands, smoke is considered a medium by which offerings transcend to the other dimension.
COOKING CORNERS
Although pre-Hispanic homes had their cooking Are and cooking area, the concept of a room
CH A P T E R 2
A KI TCHEA KNPOR
were so complimented by Spaniards into the nine- teenth century. (Actually, Andalucians absorbed reAned Moorish cooking, baking, as well as sweet- making tastes and techniques, then incorporated them into Iberian cuisine.)
Spain not only introduced Spanish cooking to
the Asian zone but New World food plants?, ar- rowroot, , avocado, bilimbi, cacao, , cashew, cas- sava, chayote, , coffee, corn, guava, lima bean, on- ion, papaya, peanut, varieties of chili or capsicum, pineapple, potato, squash, tomato and zapote, to name but a few. What could not be grown was im- ported?olive oil, olives, butter, Edam and Cam- embert cheese, grape wines, wheat our and, for a time, reAned sugar.
As an increasing number of Filipinos sought
economic mobility and education in Belgium, England, France, Italy or Spain, Spanish culture, complete in its somewhat FrenchiAed nineteenth century version, became the standard for social success until the climax of America?s regime.
The Governor-General’s Kitchen
A
AK strictly for food preparation?a kitchen?has sur-
vived among Filipinos through the Spanish word
cucina. (In Bahasa, kitchen is dapur, a natural evo-
lution from the southeast Asian word for ?open
re? and the root of Tagalog?s dapog.)
The native synonym for ?cooking space?, re-
corded in the 1835 Tagalog vocabulary prepared by
Franciscan priest, Domingo de los Santos, is pag-
sasaingan (the spot where rice is cooked). But by
1860, kusina, kusinaan and pangusinaan were the
common Tagalog designations for kitchen. (Kusi-
na derives from the Spanish, which in turn stems
from the Latin coquere, ?cook?.)
Manila resident Federico Casademunt pro-
vides a rare description of an upper class intra-
mural cucina. In 1875, Revista Filipina serialized
Casademunt?s Filipinos y Filipones, a touching
satire starring Agapito ?Pitoy? Makapingan. True
to his surname?which means ?having an affinity
with plates,? if not an attraction to them? and the
stereotype of native domestics, Pitoy broke Afteen
plates, two soup tureens, Ave glasses and cups in
less than six hours on his Arst job. In addition,
he dulled and twisted four knives and six forks!
Not to mention his breaking a belljar when he
decided to play with the ivory ?doll? it encased,
not realizing it was an image of baby Jesus worthy
of respect. Even Jose Rizal characterized native
househelp as tableware?s Enemy Number One.
Yokel Pitoy promptly learned that being civi-
lizado entailed gently handling the trappings of
Karuth (detail)
reAnement. Fresh from Bulacan at the age of thir- teen, he spent most of his time in Father Toribio?s kitchen in exchange for a chance to learn enough Spanish to get through school.
?A Manila kitchen at four in the afternoon,?
Pitoy relates, ?is a wasteland: the kalans are dull
and overcome by ash; clay pots and metal carajay lay cast on the oor with the rest that contributed to the cooking just a few hours earlier; dogs, cats and rats devour the crumbs and in this way aid with the cleaning while cooks and scullions nap. All is desolation. At most one Ands a raw piece of meat or a dead Ash thrown on the table hoping to be used quickly in the evening stew?that is if a cat or dog does not gulp it down ahead even with- out condiments.?
It was no wonder that cockroaches confound-
ed nineteenth century cooks: servants made pock- et money clandestinely by selling bones and ash which they piled in kitchen corners till a Chinese buyer came a-calling by. The bones became lime for betelnut chewers; ash was recycled for soap, a Chinese-controlled commodity at the time.
Intramural kitchens were then dirty, dark
and poorly ventilated. Not all homes, according to Casademunt, had funnels to direct smoke into chimneys thereby causing soot to color entire in- teriors an excellent, permanent black. Peninsular kitchens maintained by the capable women of Castile, Extremedura, Vizcaya, Aragon, Andalucia and Catalunya were renown for their cleanliness; but Manila?s Spanish kitchens developed differ- ently because they were men?s territory, and not even the Spanish machismos? but the servants?. Lucky were those with a madre de familia to as-
sure a semblance of the neat, cozy prototype.
Kitchens became the rendezvous for native
proletarians everywhere. Augustinians assigned to provinces complained that parishioners lin- gered and frolicked in the convent cucina where they made it a point not only to break the cura?s crockery, but sample his food. Pitoy enumerates articles from the dispensa and aparador platero
that commonly appealed to young helpers: cara- melo, ladyAngers, tortas, ensaimadas?anything
At for the dulcera?as well as moscatel, Pedro Jimenez, cigars and cigarettes.
Although Spanish food became the gauge of
good cooking and urban sophistication, the city kitchen was constructed with much of the native provincial in mind.
A FUNCTIONAL FORMULA
Temperate climates require a central hearth to provide comfort from autumn, winter and spring
In this picture from by Carl .ohann /aruth, depicts a couple enNoying
their meal at a low table or dulang . Western level tables and chairs were not
yet widespread throughout the Philippines. (Collection: Filipinas Heritage
Librar y)
chill, as well as to offer an accessible cooking
area whatever the weather. Equatorial heat and
humidity, by contrast, do not warrant the central
stove except in mountain areas prone to cold.
Pre-Hispanic meals were prepared at a cook-
ing corner furnished with a stove just big enough
to prepare a pot of rice; not all viands and a-
vorings required heating to become edible. The
in ammable and smoky situation prompted con-
struction of a separate building for the hearth.
Different regional environments tailored suitable
kitchen annexes.
Ceremonial cooking, which occurred on a
comparatively grand scale (at a community or
tribal rather than family level) usually happened
between the time a crop was harvested and a new
eld planted?in other words during fair or dry
weather. Most merry-making was done open-air,
except in cases where rites required an altar or
throne inside royal residences or public struc-
tures. Preparations could be handled outdoors
in provisional cooking areas shielded from sun
and draft by makeshift grass lean-tos and folding
screens. The tungko and kalan were portable and
came in sizes small to extra-large allowing an ef-
Acient selection for each party.
But Iberian traditions had long adapted to
various reasons for cooking, dining and socializ-
ing indoors. Filipinos learned to adopt Continen-
tal ?indoorness? which meant accommodating
even ceremonial and large scale cooking. Because
the Spanish entertainment and festival calendar
was planned according to temperate wheat har-
vest seasons, colonial celebrations sometimes
occurred during tropical rainy months? forcing
preparation indoors or under a makeshift roof.
Spanish colonial architecture introduced
a stone ground oor, which not only promul-
gated permanence but allowed for furnishings
more weighty than what a native house on bam-
boo or wooden stilts could warrant. The seven-
teenth-century intramural house with living area
oored in hard wood retained, however, a bit of
indigenous ancestry: it was connected to a bam-
boo- oored kitchen by a bamboo bridge resem-
bling the batalan. Eventually the batalan was
enclosed, until it disappeared altogether.
Over time urban and hacienda kitchens took
on a solid stone foundation with a tile or wooden
oor. In some structures the new kitchen was a
roofed section of the azotea, a solid stone terrace
safely away from bedrooms and where the princi-
pal water source was placed. In other oor plans
the kitchen became a wood or tile- oored, fully-
A KITCHEITNPOR
Filipinos cling to traditions that promise to fend off
hunger. At Christian house blessings, new occupants
always have a sack of rice, salt, and as much food as
possible. The pattern of what to bring when moving
was set in pre-Christian days.
The Yakan of Basilan, although Islamized, still
hang parapaglelinan charms in the center of a new
house on the day of a house blessing a rice-filled
bamboo tube, representing a constant supply of the
staple and an abundance of food; a bamboo tube of
oil, for a life that runs smoothly; a bamboo tube of
kerosene, for light; a small bottle of water blessed by
the imam priest, representing life and an abundance
of water in the home; a dried katambak fish, because
its name means “the piling up of things”; a sulig
dried fish, symboli^ing growth. In addition, a fire is
kept burning in the new kitchen for the first three
consecutive days. No one in the family is allowed
to give anything away nor ask anything of anyone,
although gifts are welcome. All members of the
household are expected to remain in the abode and
visitors are not allowed to stay for long or sleep
overnight.
Newlyweds are still showered with rice grains
after Christian nuptials in hope of fertility and plenty.
Similarly, ethnic minority communities include a plate
of rice set before the couple at a marriage feast for
the same reason. In one Mindanao settlement, an egg
is believed to insure kindness and goodness, a glass
of water for cleanliness and health, and salt for a
mild temperament; having these near the newlyweds
insures their presence in the kitchen, say old folk.
Filipinos, regardless of religion, are united in
their wish for a happy, well-supplied home.
the Governor-General?s kitchen
A AK
heavenly hearths
for smoking fish and meat; closer to the roof was a place
to dry firewood.
The wooden royal torogan, a common facility shared
by different families occupying the Maranaw datu’s
residence, likewise maintained a separate room at the end
of its long rectangular kitchen floor plan. Each family had
its own private room where members ate, slept, received
guests and wove fabric. Slaves resided near the kitchen or
on ground level beneath the palace.
Yakan kitchen Another Mindanao settler group, the
Yakan of Basilan, have similar architecture with the main
house connected to a smaller structure (which serves as
a kitchen) via a bamboo pantan bridge. The kitchen has
two doors—one opening up to the bridge, the other to
the street with the help of a ladder. Like the main house,
the kitchen has a window and a thatch roof. Both stilt-
supported buildings and their principal doorways must
face sunrise for its promise of life and things to come.
central luzon manor kitchenS
Bulacan kitchen Tagalogs keep a woven bamboo or
rattan tray suspended from the ceiling to keep edibles away
from rats and cats. The paga is a bamboo storage loft posi-
tioned near the ceiling, but which moves down via a pulley.
The Central Luzon manor is similar to that of Spanish colo-
nial mansions all over the islands. The kitchen is a separate
room attached to the dining room by a hallway. Comes-
tibles were once stored in a bedroom corner cupboard
seen from outside as highly decorated parts of the wall.
Pampanga kitchen The island range with several ka-
lan or tungko permanently installed was a practical solu-
tion for rich homes that had to entertain on a grand scale
during the town fiesta and Christmas. Large pots were
stored on a shelf running the perimeter of the kitchen
ceiling when not in use; pot lids lined the walls below
window level, held in place by a wooden bracket. Pam-
pangans stored food in a wide sala-sala basket suspended
from the ceiling.
Native kitchens evolved suitable to the natural clime. The
ideal spot was a well-ventilated porch or window area
that provided escape for soot and smoke; it was best
partially over water, which served as a natural garbage
disposal system. The rest of the native home, principally
a sleeping shelter, was not necessarily over the water but
certainly above the reach of predatory animals and enemy
weapons.
Outside the abode many daytime activities took
place: from raising pigs and chickens to butchering, and
even cooking meals on the bare earth. Only in bad
weather was cooking forced upstairs.
The house of stone, introduced during Spanish
colonial times, kept living space complete with the kitchen
on the second floor. Although the structure was different
in appearance from the early nipa house, much of the
ancestral mansion was nevertheless a compromise with
the tropical environment.
mindanao kitchenS
Manuvu kitchen The Manuvu village in ancient epic,
“Tuwaang Attends a Wedding”, has a kitchen apart from
the main house. Its fireplace—a burning log—rests on
the bare earth where rice and meat stewed wrapped in
leaves. Firewood is stored on a rack above the fireplace
along with iron pots. Residents preferred to place kitch-
ens on a slope that led into the sea, lake or river, for
natural waste disposal.
Maranaw commoner’s & sultan’s kitchen An
ordinary Maranaw house or walay was also raised off the
ground and made of split bamboo, rattan and cogon grass.
Its kitchen was situated aback the principal lodging and
measured half-a-meter lower than the rest of the abode.
The kitchen door was reached from ground level via a
retractable bamboo ladder. Above the stone trivet that
served as hearth hung a plaited bamboo tapaan container
A KITCHEN PORTFOLIO
northern luzon kitchenS
Ilocano kitchen Many Ilocano houses along the north-
western shore consist of only one multi-purpose room.
The ideal Ilocano home, however, has several partitions:
the kadaklan or main building with its sitting room and
sleeping area, the kitchen, and the batalan. The batalan,
which bridges kadaklan and kitchen, may be fully or par-
tially covered by roofing of one or both of the other
rooms; this allows it to serve as a waiting or dining room.
Annexed to the kitchen is the roofless bangsalan exten-
sion of unsplit bamboo flooring slightly lower than the
kitchen; the bangsal holds large earthen water jars for
cleaning pots, pans, rice, vegetables and residents, and also
serves as a toilet. Ilocanos have a rack for kitchen utensils
called galong or bansag (the latter also means a buffet)
and the banilag shelf of woven bamboo attached to a tie-
beam.
Ivatan kitchen Ivatans of typhoon-plagued Batanes,
near the country’s northernmost tip, developed houses
lower than those of other provinces, and oriented ac-
cording to wind-direction. The typhoon-side wall was
windowless, or occasionally fitted with a six-inch high
vent. Until the 1700s, Ivatan homes were narrow, low and
without interior divisions. Eventually the kitchen became
a separate unit to keep smoke at bay. Above the rapuyan
stove rested a paya rack on which to hang salted fish and
meat, tobacco leaves and kindling. Spanning the distance
between eaves was an emergency pantry, a shelf called
tambobo, for bundles of garlic, onion and unhusked corn.
The kitchen had three doors, or two, and a small window
(one opening per

remaining wall). There was no chimney
despite smoky wood fuel because of the hazard it pre-
sented on windy days to the grass roofing. Batanes kitch-
ens were soot black and hung all around with baskets.
KITCHEN SLAVES
Cooks figure in a Philippine myth about creation. A vul- ture, so the story goes, hovered in space exhausted and unable to find a resting spot on water-covered earth. The waves rose, threatening heaven and evoking the wrath of an almighty power who, in vengeance, created islands to consume the waters.
On the largest island, Luzon, grew a great bamboo.
The tired and curious bird split open the cane and out sprung, simultaneously, a man and a woman. The couple was so prolific, and whenever overpopulation threatened, the vulture swept down to frighten everyone. Some inhabitants hid in the cane and became royalty; the majority scampered from the chamber and became commoners; those who hid in the kitchen were doomed to remain slaves chained to the housekeeping chores of their masters. In the nineteenth century, alila was considered synonymous not only with “to create” (criar, as in criado), but with cooking: “Ipagalila mo bucas,” meant
“Cook something for me tomorrow.”
In Ilocos the kitchen crew is not viewed highly, either.
The graceful bridal dance of the region for pairs of men and women called salamanteka was so named during
Spanish times. Master and mistress would call the serving people—who smelled of the kitchen because they were spattered all over with lard—to dance during the post- nuptial celebration, hence salamanteka , the “dance of the
oily people” (manteca meaning “cooking lard”). According to dance authority Guillermo Gomez, dancers emerged from the kitchen with lechon , baked goods and other items
cooked with lard or butter ; they served the delicacies as other dancers clicked castanets.
The early attitude to the chores of everyday food
preparation is not unusual considering the ordeals of starting a fire from scratch, keeping the flame aglow, as well as the bloody job of butchering meat or cleaning raw ingredients, particularly for generally large agricultural households. Even in nineteenth century Europe, cooks, bakers and butchers were not given their due unless they worked for kings. Romans, on the other hand, at the very peak of their empire, considered food as important as art. For most purposes, however, a cook was looked upon as another servant, perhaps highly ranked in the retinue, but domestic nonetheless—someone whose head could roll if royalty sought revenge for indigestion.
It took centuries to turn cooking into cuisine, and
the cook into a chef.
Ivatan house
32 33

6
panga is called belanga in Bahasa. A balanga is
also known as a banga in Ibanag, Ilocano, Panga-
sinan. In Tagalog, though, banga means a water
receptacle. Katingan is the ter m for a large cook-
ing pot in Tagalog and Malay. The koron of Bi-
col, Samar and Leyte becomes kuran in Pampan-
ga and kulon in Hiligaynon and Cebuano. It is
koden in Maranaw and kuden in Maguindanao.
Anglit, a small Chinese clay cooking pot
similar to the palayok is used in Tagalog, Bicol,
Tausog, and most of the Visayan area. Aside
from these generic references, there are names
for specialized shapes of pots such as the Tag-
banwa panguran—a style distinct within the
culture from the other (balanga) strain of jars.
The Spanish earthen casuela stewing pan,
caserola, kalderon and its diminutive kaldereta
have been adapted especially in urbanized Phil-
ippines. All have come to mean, interchange-
ably, a cooking pot. Whatever distinctions they
had were lost with centuries of design refine-
ments.
The Chinese word for cooking vessel, ka,
is combined in karajay, kawa, kawali (li, a di-
minutive, thereby indicating a small kawa)—
all metal wok-like cooking pans. Philippinolo-
gist Wenceslao Retana explained that kalahay
was the original for m popular on the Islands.
When a seller called the wok by its Hispanized
for m, carajay, then the vessel was imported; if,
instead, the seller said it was a kalahay, then
the pan was island-made from steel or iron.
Since Chinese monopolized the manufacture
of cooking pans in the country, their ter m re-
mained rather than the Spanish word for metal
pan, sarten. Sharing of the ter m kawali among Ba-
hasa and Malay speakers reveals the Sino traders’
extensive influence in the region.
During Hispanic days, sweets in syrup and
candies were made in a flat-bottomed, two-han-
dled brass pan called tacho. This sugar evapora-
tion pan was first used in Guatemala, Bolivia and
Argentina to make caramelo. Its root may be Por-
tuguese, according to an 1836 document, although
its use spread in the Philippines during Spanish
times, the result of a Chinese-shackled sugar in-
dustry. Joaquin Martinez de Zuñiga credits Spain
with introduction of sugar-making techniques
from Mexico. The tacho is similar to the Chinese
vat-style tulyasi kitchen pan; tacho and tulyasi
(or talyasi) are understandably often interchanged.
Gamay is an old-fashioned kettle; buhoy a
narrow-mouth pot or kettle. The Ilocano dong-
dong is a very large jar for stew and rice. The
earthen tayab for cooking viands is shaped like a
banga but with a wider mouth. In Sulu, the pot
for cooking rice is called lupo. The rice pot is sel-
dom used for any other purpose; not only to keep
the staple’s taste pure, but perhaps because of the
traditional respect given Asia’s principal source of
life and respectability.
JarS, BowlS & p itcherS
Receptacles are not only used for mixing but for
storing, and their shapes are deter mined by their
contents, raw materials and the potter’s expertise.
Aside from hemispherical bowls, there are a vari-
ety of bulbous containers in native kitchens.
As foreign cooking methods were added to
insular fashion, local and imported receptacles
were creatively interchanged. Natives tur ned out
unglazed domestic ware on potter’s wheels, while
China and Annam (Thailand) supplied glazed
ware that, although principally used as funerary
fur niture, also figure on native tables (particularly
among the upperclass).
To keep ants away, glasses and dishes of food
were sat in a biya’y or salalay, shallow trays or
other container half-filled with water or kerosene.
Eventually, each leg of a food larder (called vian-
dero because it held viands) stood similarly in a
pan of water referred to as lampakan.
Following are a few surviving ter ms for the
still untold variety of Philippine earthenware jars
and bowls used in housekeeping, especially for the
kitchen:
“Una cocina” depicts a common Cebuano kitchen. The drawing is from a
collection done by several Cebuano ar tists and appears to have been made
around the late 1880s through 1890s. (Collection: Luis Ma. Araneta)
ang-ang Jar with a large mouth, and sold by
Chinese
anglit Small bowl
bakka Ilocano earthenware washbasin for
rice, fish or vegetables
banga (also called balanga) Low earthen
jar for storage or cooking; it is of Chi-
nese origin and is used in Hiligaynon,
Ilocano, Tagalog and Cebuano-speak-
ing areas, as well as Samar and Leyte.
Its bottom is concave. In Sulu the
term applies to a pot used for cook-
ing fish.
batya Shallow, circular, wooden washtub
for laundering garments, and in which
precious tableware was sudsed and
rinsed. Americans substituted corru-
gated hog-feed troughs for this tre-
enware. In Ilocos the treen “basin or
bowl” was also used for a kneading
trough.
binki Sulu jar for drinking water
bohoy Pot with a small mouth
burnay Tall earthen jar with broad mouth
and deep, strong, rounded body with a
flat bottom; known in Ilocos and Tagalog
regions where it is commonly used to
store water for cleaning and bathing. In
some areas, commodities like sugar and
rice wine are sold by the burnay (see
tapayan).
buruhan Pickling container among Hili -
gaynon, Ilocano, Cebuano and Tagalog
speakers
buyong Low earthen jar somewhat like a
banga used in Pangasinan
dulay Bicol earthen jar similar to a banga
dayupapak Flat-bottom china jar
gusi Large porcelain vase, usually Ming;
often the object of treasure hunters
who believe gusi were burial jars of
pre-Hispanic Hakka Chinese immi-
grants to the Philippines. Not used
for food although occasionally for rice
wine; said to be magical and used as
legal tender.
galong (called galung in Pampanga) Jug for
drinking water
gayong Magindanao jug for drinking wa-
ter
gulgurita Pangasinan and Tagalog drinking
water container
hawong Wooden soup bowl derived
from Chinese prototype
kaang Large, wide-mouth earthen jar, half
a tinaja in volume
kalabay (also called tatangan or hawakan )
Handle of a large porcelain jar
kalalang Drinking water jug
kalamba ( karamba in Ilocano) Wide-
mouth earthen jar among Pampangans
and Tagalogs
kalo (also called tason, sulyaw and mang-
ko k) Large cup or bowl
kam-aw Large, broad-mouthed and
strong earthenware bowl of Chinese
origin for washing hands or cleaning
food to be cooked; used among Ilo-
canos, Pampangans, Pangasinenses and
Tagalogs. It resembles an ordinar y
flower pot in shape, or the lower half
of a burnay, and in nineteenth centu-
r y Ilocos was used to hold lard (see
paso).
karamba (see kalamba ) A broad-mouthed
earthen vessel resembling a dongdong
but used for drinking water, and usual-
ly situated in the kitchen. A similar ves-
sel is placed atop each of a granar y’s
four posts in Ilocos, not far from the
ground, to prevent rats from climb-
ing into the storage area.
katingan Large pot
kimpost Large china jar with narrow
mouth
kuli Kankanay earthen jar for rice wine
ladiya Maranaw bowl
lampay Bowl larger than a sulyaw
limpik Ver y large jar with handles, or a
ver y large jar with a wide mouth
linga Large, flat, low bowl or pot, some-
what plate-shaped, for cooking tapioca
in Sulu
loo-chen Gourd used in Bontoc as a con-
tainer for preser ving salted meat
mangkok A big bowl or saucer ; originally
Chinese
martabana A large jar for water
panaogbogan Generic term in the
north for any receptacle, banga or can
used for holding food remnants, par-
ings, rice wash or whatever food is to
be used for hogs, dogs or other family
pets
paso (also called kam-aw) Earthen vessel
burned brown with semi-porcelain,
impenetrable sides and used as a food
container in Bicol. In Simonor, Sulu the
term is applied to a washbasin. In an
old Ilocos vocabular y it was described
as a large “pan”.
putek A small burnay, whatever its con-
tents
saboray An old term for a kind of Bor-
nean jar imported around northwest-
ern communities of Luzon
salao Water vessel formerly placed at the
foot of entrance stairways for visitors
to wash their feet before entering the
house
s a ro (also called jaro) Jug for drinking water
sillo Big bowl or saucer in Pampangan
(similar to mangkok and tason)
sulyaw Large cup or bowl of Chinese
origin
The Governor-General’s Kitchen
46 47
Culinary Contrivances
kapetera Coffee pot; from Spanish caf-
etera
kumbo Cruet sets that came in pairs
(thus, a combo) or a decanter (which
looks like a large cruet bottle)
kundi a borongan Maranaw brass wa-
ter kettle
lapaw Old Tagalog word for a tight seal
used on bottles containing liquid liable
to froth over (as in aerated liquids);
this antedates the word tansan (con-
temporar y Pilipino jargon for bottle-
cap), the name of a brand of beverage
from Japan that introduced the metal
bottlecap to the Philippines in the
early 1900s.
palukanlang Old Tagalog for a small bot-
tle with a narrow neck
panalaagadan Maranaw brass stand for
the porcelain water container called
solang
poga Yakan bulbous clay water jar with a
cover
prasko Flask; derived from Spanish frasco
purunggo Round, short-neck bottle or
earthen jar
s a ro Earthen jar or pitcher ; variation of
haro from the Spanish jarro
solang Maranaw porcelain water con-
tainer
termos Thermos; from the English pro-
totype and acquired by Filipinos from
the Spanish adaptation termos
tuytoy Vial, small wine bottle or small
flask; also pronounced toytoy among
Ilongots, Ilocanos and residents of
Cebu and Leyte
tsarera Tea pot; although it is claimed
to derive from Spanish charera, cha
is the Spanish spelling of the Chinese
word for tea, tsa. In Spain tea is te, and
teapot is tetera. Charera is an Hispan-
ismo coined in the Philippines that
combines Chinese and Spanish.
tangek A large Ilocano kitchen jar
tambultambul (also called tataup) Jar
for keeping cooked food from one
meal to the next in Sulu, although
there are seldom leftovers
tanang Small water jar used in Sulu
tapayan Large earthen jar in Bicolano,
Pampangan and Tagalog regions
tason Bowl or large bowl; originally a
Spanish word (similar to mangkok)
tataup See tambultambul
tibod Earthen jar in Samar and Leyte that
resembles a banga
Bamboo pitchers and pourers in Island
homes include:
bayengyeng A thick bamboo section
of several internodes used for carr y-
ing rice, liquids, and especially water
in Ilocos and Pangasinan (synonym:
bongbong)
bongbong Water container made from
a piece of bamboo cut from node to
node (synonym: bayengyeng)
bumbong A cylindrical bamboo con-
tainer of one or more internodes
used for water, money, documents
and hats
cauit Cylindrical section in which unfer-
mented coconut juice is har vested
for making into tuba liquor
getget Kankanay multi-purpose contain-
er encased in rattan; usually for meat
or rice wine
inuli Small, narrow-mouth pitcher usually
manageable by a five or six-year-old
child; the first personal drinking ves-
sel owned by a Tagbanwa.
inuman Short portable tube with a
shoulder strap used for carr ying wa-
ter among Tagbanwa
tenglaw Kankanay hollow section for
transporting rice wine to the fields
tubigan Tagbanwa water carrier about
three to four internodes long; a type
of bayengyeng
tukil Among Pampangans and Tagalogs, a
length used as a container usually for
water (similar to bumbong)
Other domestic pitchers, pourers, liquid
containers and their accessories include:
apangan Kankanay porringer used to
ser ve out rice wine
babangan Small handleless pitcher
bariles Barrel; derived from Spanish barril
(synonymous with tunet and tu-ung)
biso Water vessel among Cebuano and
Samar-Leyte areas
bote Bottle; derived from Spanish bote
botiha Round,short-necked earthenware
jug derived from Spain
damawana A glass demijohn; derived
from Spanish damajuana
dekanter Ornamental glass wine ser ver ;
derived from English decanter
garapa Wide-mouth bottle or decanter ;
from Spanish garrafa
garapon Large, wide-mouth bottle, carafe
or decanter ; from Spanish garrafon
gurgurita Narrow-neck earthenware
decanter valued for its ability to cool
drinking water ; from the Spanish word
gorgorita and sometimes pronounced
gulgurita. Retana noted in the 1920s
that this word was pronounced gorg-
oreta, and was synonymous with the
Spanish botijo (a word not used in the
Philippines), the Visayan banga and the
Tagalog candi (or kandi).
kandi Carafe or decanter
kantara Large, narrow-mouth pitcher ;
derived from Spanish catarra
kantimplora Water-cooler ; derived from
Spanish cantinflask
SupportS & c overS
Earthen jars, wine bottles and demijohns were
protected from breakage by kalawas or balakas, a
woven rattan shroud. Plates and dishes were simi-
larly cushioned with a per manent rattan encase-
ment called lingka.
Maranaw and Pampangan floors are protected
from pot soot by a basket for hot pots called lakal;
just as palayok, are kept from singeing fur niture
by a woven split-bamboo crown-like rest called
dikin or asad in Tagalog homes, gokon in Bohol,
Samar, Leyte and Panay, or tungtong among Ta-
galogs, Hiligaynons and Cebuanos. In Ilocos wa-
ter jars are placed on a cloth, woven bamboo or a
dried banana leaf circlet called sagapa.
To lift jars off a fire, whether for industrial or
household usage in the north, the silong was de-
vised: a meter-long twisted strip of stiff bamboo
or rattan that clamps around the receptacle. Cloth
pot holders or rags used similarly are called nisnis
in the area; while a kitchen rag not allowed to get
soiled like the nisnis is distinguished as pagpunas
and is used strictly for not-too-dirty clean-up jobs.
The native concave clay pot cover derives its
name from its function: saklob, panaklob, tak-
lob in Tagalog. Its natural substitute is the hemi-
spherical kelleb of Ilocos, used on a variety of jars
including the banga and karamba; it is made of a
perforated coconut shell with a wooden knob at
the apex. A single leaf or layer of leaves is also
used as a cover for earthenware pots when cook-
ing rice. During temporary storage a cloth can be
used over the rice—this fabric cover being called
bigket along the northwest coast.
grinderS , BeaterS & m aSherS
Mortars and pestles are the earliest post-primitive
tools for pulverizing cooking ingredients. Rang-
ing from simple stone and wood, the equipment is
likewise fashioned in marble or brass. The latter,
made by Maranaw craftsmen, is called bowayawa;
Muslim-made mortars are characteristically deco-
rated with okil motifs and sport both a handle rem-
iniscent of the sarimanok bird’s tail, and a spout.
Coconut milk is often added to ground spices be-
fore pouring the condiments into a cooking pot.
The coordinate pestle of the bowayawa is usually
wooden.
A Tagalog tandem shares the same function. Its
base is called dikdikan and the pounder, pandikdik
(from dikdik, “to pound”). The Spanish synonym,
almirez, has overtaken dikdikan in urban settings
yet strangely, majador never replaced pandikdik.
Waist-high wooden mortars typically set near the
Ear thenware jar market, Iloilo
49
Culinary Contrivances
48
The Governor-General’s Kitchen
foot o f
kitchen steps are called lusong (after which Lu- zon island was named by the first Spanish invad-
ers); they are used to separate rice husk from grain.
Wooden pestles for the lusong come light and small
for women, or heavy and almost shoulder-high in
length for men. Small table versions of glass ap-
peared from Europe, particularly Ger many, for
phar macists rather than cooks. (The Philippines
had no glass industry until the early twentieth cen-
tury.)
Stone quer ns developed independently in dif-
ferent cultures around the world. Known as gilin-
gan in the Philippines, and once made from granite
hauled in as ballast in Chinese junks (as had been
done also to trade porcelain, which was valued far
below silk on the open market), the machine takes
its name from the verb giling which, throughout
Indonesia and Malaysia, means “tur ning”. The
insular quer n, which is identical to the type still
found in China and Hong Kong, is required when
preparing rice flour and a thickening agent made
from toasted rice grains. Large quer ns are also used
for processing cor n meal.
New World coffee and chocolate came with the
Conquest. The for mer is roasted and then ground in
a mortar, quer n (those in Lipa were carved with flo-
ral relief), crude wooden grinder, or box-like metal
invention worked by a tur ning wheel or handle.
City homes managed without their own imported
grinder because comestibles provided the service
free. The aroma of freshly ground beans was a nos-
talgic signature of ye ol’ grocery or marketplace.
Molinillo, the peninsular word for wooden
chocolate beater (which in some areas came to
mean a grinder, like that for meat), never quite
caught on in the Philippines; but its close kin, ba-
tidor (from batear, to beat), did. The secret to pre-
paring a fine cup of chocolate was to mash solid
chocolate tablets or balls as they heated up in a
clay or brass (then later enamel) cooking pitcher
called chocolatera, then to froth up the drink with
brisk twirling of the batidor just before pouring the
beverage into demitasse cups. Stove-top chocolat-
eras never appeared on a fastidious homemaker’s
table—for which fine china servers were in demand
from Japanese and European kilns.
Cacao beans were treated in the Philippines
as at their source of origin, Mexico. Dried, shelled
beans were hand-ground over a granite metate
made by Chinese stone carvers who copied the Az-
tec prototype called metatl. While many families
owned their own metate, city residents had the
leisure of employing a professional Chinese choco-
late bean-grinder who fur nished his own tools of
the trade. He sat, bent over from the waist, on a
stool behind a slide-shaped, granite metate while
he passed a granite rolling pin slightly longer than
the metate’s width (and tapered at the ends for easy
holding) over the beans. A melted liquid oozed off
the slide unto a pan or bilao below. After this pro-
cess produced a finely textured paste, the chocolate
was shaped into balls by hand, or pressed into three-
piece wooden molds. Uncooked chocolate awaited
use in glass apothecaries. Depending on taste buds,
sugar, peanut or cashew nut could be ground with
the beans for flavoring.
Rolling pins are called pambilo. They were
wooden and needed for rolling out pastry to make
empanada and cookies.
kniveS, cutterS & ScraperS
Native knives are generally named after a shape
in nature that they resemble, thus: parang, like a
blade of wild grass; dahong palay, like a rice plant
leaf. Most knives have field uses. The generic for
knives is golok, an Indo-Malay word. Small kitchen
knives are called kutsilyo after Spanish cuchillo,
or kampit from Chinese. In the mid-1800s Angat
town in Bulacan was a reputable source for knives
and metal cooking pans.
At the foot of many a kitchen backsteps is not
only a lusong but a sangkalan, the waist-high chop-
ping block usually made from the cross-section of
a large tree trunk; thinner portable blocks are hung
in the kitchen.
One type of cutter common to Indo-Malay
homes is the coconut shredder. The Philippine ver-
sion is called kudkuran and consists of a sharply
serrated metal cutter—either in the for m of a sun-
shaped disk or a long rectangle—which protrudes
from a wooden base. Some stands are knee-high
and sturdy enough that one can sit on them. A
catch pan is placed under the grater. Others are
small and made to position atop a dulang work-
table. The Muslim kudkuran is collectible because
of the bas-relief around the base. In the nineteenth
century, using a piece of driftwood that resembled
a four-legged beast made kabayo a colloquial ter m
for kudkuran (although “horse” was also adopted
for the American-era wooden ironing table that
bettered pressing on a padded table, bed or chest).
In the south Yakans use a kutkutan grater with
a star-shaped blade on coconuts, but a rectangular
board with sharp, raised holes to grate papaya. The
Ilocano scraper is ter med karus; it may be a pot-
sherd or a coconut shell used to remove coconut
meat, or to scrape and shred papaya for salads and
pickles. A small karus is called kiris, its function
being to scrape off extraneous matter from pot ex-
teriors.
SpoonS , StirrerS & t urnerS
The southeast Asian cook comes ar med with a
sandok ladle originally made of coconut shell
attached to a bamboo handle. Pigafetta noted
(1521) that in Tidore in easter n Indonesia san-
duch meant spoon.
Philippine dialects provide equivalents other
than sandok for that trademark of culinary capa-
bility: kawet, Tagalog; kaut, Pampangan; kuhit,
Bicol; kabog and kaloda, Maranaw; luwag, Wa -
ray and Ilonggo. In Pangasinan and Ilocos, aklo
is a ladle for cooking rice; when used for fish or
vegetables, the Pangasinenses differentiate it as
balaok—their functions are never interchanged.
In one Ilocano vocabulary, the aklo is straight
whereas the balaok has a curved blade.
Pakul is generic for ladle. The norther n ka-
ruas style with a woven bamboo “cup” at the end
is used to extract sliced sweet potato or kaskaron
balls from the boiling sugar in which they are
cooked.
Datu Humabon called the spoon gandan in
the early sixteenth century. In Leyte and Samar,
siklot is specifically a spoon of wood. Suro is old
Tagalog for spoon, while an obsolete Ilocano mean-
ing for palaspas is a spoon made of palm leaves.
Kitchen tur ners came with the Chinese who
also provided frying pans; thus the adapted word
siyansi, used red-hot to singe the sugar coating of
boiled hams and puddings thereby leaving a deli-
cious caramelized topping.
SieveS & f ilterS
Pounded rice is sifted in a bistay. The ter m de-
rives from Chinese, in which bi means rice.
Finely woven sieves are referred to as bistay-
darak; larger meshed versions are classified as
bistay-pinaway. Another Chinese accoutrement
in Philippine kitchens is the bamboo lastay used
to smoke fish. The native word for sieve, salaan,
is employed for household strainers that are like
baskets attached to a long, straight wooden han-
dle. The conical woven Yakan strainer for coco-
nut milk and oil is a saan.
Although espumadera occurs in Pilipino, the
Spanish word is used for industrial tools to skim
off scum. The norther n agsaw with a bamboo or
wooden handle and a round wickerwork blade is
used to skim basi of flotsam.
A Spanish linguistic import is filtro, the is-
land-wide ter m for “water filter”. It is associated
with porous cylindrical imports mostly from
England and Ger many with brands like Berkefeld
or Regulator, as well as local terracotta reproduc-
tions. The filtro usually had a faucet as the twen-
tieth century approached, and sat on a kitchen
counter.
moldS
Puddings and ices introduced from Europe were
set and shaped in metal European molds. Leche
flan, an egg-rich custard derived from flan de
leche, has become the most widespread Hispanic
fiesta dessert in the Philippines. It is made in a
metal pan, usually oval but also circular, star or
floral in shape, called a llanera.
Round shells from the tree called bangkalan
or bitaog serve as containers for buri sugar con-
fections.
Three-part wooden molds were made for
ground chocolate that was stored for cooking
into a mor ning beverage. One fine example tur ns
out oval tablets embossed with family initials.
Similarly, white cheese in Laguna was embel-
lished with letters of the alphabet carved into
wooden molds.
Wooden baking cards provided raised deco-
rations for cookies. The most common figure
on Spanish-time Philippines versions
is Saint Nicolas of Tolentino,
whose patronage was spread
by Augustinians and Rec-
ollects. Pan, panecito or
panecillo de San Nicolas,
as the special biscuit was
called, were made of araro

or wheat flour, coconut milk, anise and sugar for blessing at church in Septem- ber. The cookies were eaten by
The Governor-General’s Kitchen
50 51
Culinary Contrivances
the sick hoping for a miraculous recovery, and
crushed as a field fertilizer.
The majority of cards have Saint Nicolas
on one side and several two-inch sinuous floral
for ms aback referred to as rositas, if rose-like.
One unusual mold substitutes a royal looking
couple complete with ceremonial ribbons for the
holy figure.
SipperS & d ipperS
Since the drinking of alcoholic beverages is cus-
tomarily communal throughout the country, par-
ticularly during rituals, it is deemed practical to
keep wine in its storage container or ceremonial
vessel, and everyone simply sip a rightful share in
tur n.
In Tagalog the generic ter m for “sipping
tube”—sipsipan or bansi— takes its name from
the verb sipsip (to sip); Pampangans instead use
salubasib. The Kankanay draw out rice wine
with a bamboo straw they call ta-il or leseng.
Among Tagbanwa the bamboo bansuk drinking
straw is pushed through a layer of ulam leaves
(Barringtonia curranii Merr.) that keeps fer ment-
ed rice mash from mixing down into rice wine.
Halasan is a synonym applicable to a sipper of
bamboo or glass.
While straws are unador ned and functional,
coconut dippers vary from the simple, polished,
three-quarters of a coconut shell to one that is deco-
ratively incised, or fur nished with a wooden handle
of plain bamboo or sinuously carved medium-hard
wood. Three words for a coconut shell that doubles
as dipper and drinking cup are lumbo, panabyanan
and hungot— from largest to smallest.
Coconut shells are multi-purpose, serving
as plates and bowls. The coconut shell container
is called bao in Tagalog, bikan in Pampangan,
buyubuy in Ilocano. Pamao is a more accurate
reference to half a coconut shell or bao used as
a dipper. Coconut shell dippers are also used to
scoop water from a large jar (the Chinese tina,
or the Filipino banga) when bathing—although
in this function it is usually called salde, tabo
or panabo in Tagalog; tabu in Bicol or Pampan-
gan; tabo or salok in Ilonggo; kabo in Ilonggo and
Cebuano; sabut in Ilocano; tabo in Pangasinan
and Ilocano; kaor in Pangasinan; and sarok in the
areas of Cebu and Leyte. A norther n dictionary
describes tabo as a kind of dipper “consisting of a
section of thick bamboo, about half-a-yard long,
attached to a long pole, and used to dip water.” A
synonym in the area is the tawing, a dipper used
to draw well-water.
cupS & g laSSeS
Just as tuba was carried away in bamboo pitch-
ers, cups were made from a bamboo inter node
and called garong in Bicol; small bamboo wine
cups are the Tagalog singalong. Large handle-
less earthen cups in Ilocos were called mallo-
kong. When made in glazed ware, small drinking
“glasses” were known as tampayak, or in Ilocos
as yaong (a wide version).
One style of manufactured wine cup was
shaped like a crocodile egg and graphically re-
ferred to as itlog-buwaya. In ancient Tagalog the
hakusan was a golden cup with handles and a flat
base often decorated with figurines—like a pres-
ent-day trophy cup; it was most likely a ceremo-
nial drinking vessel. The bungalong wine glass
was used strictly at weddings. Regular wine cups
or glasses were known in Tagalog, Pampangan,
Ilocano, Cebuano, and Waray regions as tagayan,
from the root word tagay meaning “toast”; and
in Bicol as alapan. Kalo referred to a large cup
or bowl, as did the Chinese addition sulyaw.
Abáab meant a polished coconut half-shell used
as a glass in Ilocos. The small pagaw coconut was
prized for making into cups.
In Cebu the word for cup, usually with a
handle, is liging—although Pigafetta in the first
Spanish-Cebuano dictionary lists tagha as the
word used in 1521. The demitasse was known
as tazita in urbanized Philippines; the common
Spanish word jarrito never caught on.
Spanish kopa and kopita were also added to
Philippine dialects, particularly when referring to
“a cup of wine”. Drinking tumblers were called
baso from Spanish vaso. Although there is the
indigenous word lagiti, meaning all breakable
matter—including, therefore, glassware—there is
no native word for glass; the Spanish cristaleria
was adopted since the Islands had no local glass
industry until recently; previously ilustrados im-
ported crystal and pressed glass from Europe.
plateS , trayS & SaucerS
Native cookware is closely related to serving dish-
es because of the materials used. When Magallanes
arrived, the ter m for platter in the Philippine ar-
eas he visited was the same as that used in Bru-
nei—dulan or, if large, dinolang. From this word
has derived several meanings: in Bali, dulang is no
ordinary plate but that reserved for offerings to the
gods; dulang in Tagalog refers to a low dining table
around which persons sit on the floor. The latok is
considered a rustic dulang, usually for kitchen use.
But in the 1880s in Ilocos, a latok was a wooden
plate solely for rice; and in proper families each in-
dividual used a separate latok at mealtimes.
Palagasan is an old Tagalog word for the kind
of wood out of which old folks made wooden
bowls and plates; the Ilocano barangaw tree’s tim-
ber was made into dishes during the 1880s. Gold-
en plates were for native royalty.
Aside from treenware, the first circumnaviga-
tional crew encountered samat, platters made of
woven or sewn palm leaves. Sapisap was a plate
made from the shell of a bottle gourd. A number
of culinary necessaries are still made of coconut
shell. Coconut shell ware is referred to as tapta-
pan, kulo or sisap in Tagalog, and bagul in Samar
and Leyte. Recently the more generic bao (coco-
nut shell) has been used as well for “coconut shell
saucer” in Tagalog areas; the Ilocano duyog was
one-fourth of a coconut shell cleaned to hold vi-
ands—never rice—and condiments at table.
Among the Maranaw, whose plates were
made of metal, there are the lapad and the tabak
(a large lapad). Coarse, round earthenware plates
were, by contrast, known as patilambo on Luzon’s
northwester n coast.
Insular ter ms for porcelain plates and saucers
are Chinese or Spanish derived. Throughout In-
donesia, Malaysia and most of the Philippines, a
porcelain dish is called pinggan, a ter m acquired
through trading with Chinese. Binulakan is the
Tagalog specific for a white or cotton-colored por-
celain plate. Little saucers used for dipping sauce
were called suik in ancient Tagalog. Lamakan is
a northwester n ter m for saucer in the late nine-
teenth century; the earthen pagsangagaan saucer
served as a coaster for glasses and cups.
From Spanish comes the generic plato or,
in its once colloquial Filipinized for m, palaton
(a large plate). Dinner dishes are called bahilya,
a corruption of Spanish vajilla. Ensaladero, dul-
cera, bandehado (or bandeja)—a salad dish, sweet
or dessert dish, and a large tray—as well as sopera
or turin, the soup tureen, have also found their
way into common Pilipino usage.
Special utenSilS
Steaming of rice cakes like puto was done in a
bamboo lansong
introduced by the Chinese. Sino
immigrants and traders also brought industrial
equipment that joined the household barrage:
kapin, a bamboo trellis for drying fish (that sup-
plemented the bamboo lastay basket for smoking
fish); kalya, a mesh crate for fruit and vegetables,
as well as the ter m for a large bamboo basket to
hold grain or measure a catch of fish. Pangasinens-
es adopted the barbacoa roasting and smoking
frame from Guiana indians via Spanish seamen.
There are infinite more baskets developed
regionally for use in different hunting, far m-
ing, fishing and traveling activities. Sadly, they
are giving way to plastic and metal substitutes;
more unfortunately, the culture is losing proper
ter minologies for native containers, words which
reflect a native sensitivity to the environment.
Foreign trade continues to add more to the
Philippine kitchen cabinet. Piyambrera is an
adaptation of the Spanish fiambrera for “tiered
dinner pail”; and kanister is from the English tin
canister for tobacco or biscuits.
Imported inventions usually retain their
original reference in the Philippines. Refrigera-
tors are repridyerator or fridge (from brand name
Frigidaire). In Peacetime, resident Spaniards also
called the appliance empriadera, a play on Span-
ish enfriadera. The earlier icebox, introduced in
the 1800s, was known as nebera, from Spanish
nevera. The ice cream maker is called garap-
inyera, from Spanish garapiñera or sorbetesan
(from the Hispanic word for ice cream, sorbets,
which in tur n was derived from the French sor -
bet).
Corkscrews, necessary for the wine so be-
loved by Spaniards, was assimilated into Pilipino
as tirabuson, from the Spanish; as were embudite
and embudo, small and large funnel, respectively.
The can opener, which became increasingly avail-
able during the American Occupation, acquired a
native equivalent from the verb “to open”: pam-
bukas, that which opens.
This 1915 photograph shows an Ibaloy vegetable vendor from Trinidad Valley.
By then Baguio was the summer capital of the Philippine colonial government
headed by a Governor-General from the United States of America.
The Governor-General’s Kitchen
52 53
Culinary Contrivancesch ap te r 5
Sals EpñoSdeCboE eo
zCEbapCb
rbanidad?a study of urbanization, of civilized etiquette?was an academic re-
quirement in Spanish-run schools around the Philippines during the nineteenth
century. The table had become the true testing ground for students who were
expected to mind their manners. Rules for ?proper? table setting, menus, food
preparation and presentation, table service and general etiquette were recorded
in cookbooks for those fortunate enough to know how to read and well-sta-
tioned to own copies.
Most culinary secrets were never recorded; and Filipino dishes were not initially considered
as matter suitable for publishing. The writing down of recipes was practiced in cuneiform on
stone tablets 4,000 years ago by Assyrians. In 14 A.D., Roman Marcus Gavius Apicius authored
the oldest cookbook preserved. Such records chronicle courtly repast from gargantuan feasts
with the nauseating use of emetics, to tempered Florentine banquets orchestrated by the Medi-
cis. But it was improved printing facilities and literacy that brought instructional cookbooks to
different classes.
HEIRLOOM ERUDITION
What was fashionable in Europe was likewise sought after for Philippine kitchens. While not all
set platters with their imposing edible architectural decor could be executed in every ilustrado
home (and there were some more illustrious than others!), the drawings and instructions af-
forded by cookbooks in the 1800s were creative inspiration for homemakers inclined to baroque,
Victorian, amboyant or simply ?correct? fashions. Entertaining was the respite to small town
ennui for gentlemen and ladies alike.
Among surviving treasures is The Book of Household Management Comprising Informa-
tion for the Mistress, Housekeeper, Cook, Kitchen-Maid, Butler, Footman, Coachman, Valet,
Upper and Under House-Maids, Lady’s-Maid, Maid-of-all-Work, Laundry-Maid, Nurse and
Nurse-Maid, Monthly, Wet and Sick Nurses, Etc., with sanitary, medical and legal memoranda
as well as a history of the origin, properties and uses of all things connected with home life and
comfort. Mrs. Isabella Beeton’s book, released in 1861 after being originally serialized in London,
was an instant success, and it is no wonder a few copies found their way into Manila?indeed
one of the Orient’s cosmopolitan centers at the time. One Bicol scion grown rich from abaca
delighted in the guide’s various ways to fold napkins. Although few ilustrados spoke English at
3lla )\press was an early pressYre cooker advertised in the 1ay edition of La Mujer, a local magazine. Spanish and
English languages mixed in attempts to attract sales of food supplies and kitchen equipment.
If not satisfied after days, the owner of a new 9se Little Ice refrigerator coYld retYrn the prodYct to ;right
Furniture Company for a full refund. The refrigerator in those days was an ice block-cooled chest with front doors. This
advertisement appeared in the .Yly , edition of Excelsior magazine. (Collection: Filipinas Heritage Library)
4446
claSSroom cookBookS
The U.S.-orchestrated Insular gover nment printed
a host of recipes in textbooks, teachers’ manuals,
magazine references, adult education pamphlets,
and trade supplements. Among the earliest is a
teacher’s guide, Housekeeping & Household Arts:
A Manual for Work with the Girls in the Elemen-
tary Schools of the Philippine Islands authored by
Alice Fuller, who was stationed in Tuguegarao.
This first attempt at a for mal guide was geared to
girls in the fourth through sixth grades.
Director of Education, Frank R.
White, explains in the book’s fore-
word that while his Department’s
efforts were far-reaching at the time
of the guide’s release in 1911, teach-
ers still misunderstood the peculiar
needs of Filipino families. Fuller, he
noted, emphasized that “the teacher
must know the homes from which
her pupils come; that any increase
in the necessities of the Philippine
home must come gradually; and that
the immediate duty of the teacher is
to teach how to get the best results
out of such things as are already eas-
ily obtainable.” (She had actually
defined a practical approach to accul-
turation!)
Fuller justifies the importance
of domestic science teachers: “In few
countries in the world, and surely
in no other easter n country, does
the tur n of the century, her ideas were very handy
for those who could, or who dealt with English
traders.
The majority of early cookbooks on the Is-
lands were in Spanish, such as El Libro de las
Familias: Novisimo Manual Practico de Cocina
Española, Francesa y Americana, Higiene y eco-
nomia domestica. One of the most interesting
sections showcases Spanish-American dishes
workable in the Philippines: Colla Cubana, Na-
tilla criolla, Dulce de guayaba, Tamarindas en
almibar and Dulce de indias. Its char ming advice
on coping with daily feminine travails reflects
nineteenth-century religiosity.
A Panay-island family practised the art of
cookery following Manual del cocinero, cocinera,
repostero, pastelero, confitero y botillero by Mari-
ano de Rementeria, printed in Madrid, 1851. Like
recipe books of the period, El Libro and Manual
incorporate medical remedies, household hints,
laundry preparations, methods of food conserva-
tion and ideas on the art of carving. Already, some
notion of newly discovered nutritional benefits
and scientific methods in cooking were intro-
duced.
Precious among kitchen mementos are reci-
pes handwritten by students of Cordon Bleu.
Fortunate was the Filipina heiress who lear ned
culinary feats at the first French cooking school.
Continental “finishing” made her more of a catch
for a dignitary or visiting nobility. Urbanized ilus-
tradas had Cordon’s secrets within grasp because
French had been introduced along with Italian in
woman have the power and influence that she has
the Philippines. She usually controls the house-
hold administration, and generally it is a woman
who holds the purse strings.”
For the first time, Filipino provincial and ur-
ban food alike found their way into cookbooks.
Fuller presents native dishes using easy-to-follow
American methods and standardized measure-
ments. She suggests that the “Filipino reverence
for established customs” be utilized as a rock
upon which to build the structure of better wom-
anhood. Children from better-to-do families—
”girls whose mothers and grandmothers have
intelligence and refinement and who are accus-
tomed to plenty and eager and willing to try new
ideas in their home”—are among her principal
starting points, although she does not lose sight of
poor homes whose ideas of health and cleanliness
must be adopted despite the lack of life’s barest
necessities.
“The basis of a nation’s welfare is in its home
life,” Fuller writes, “and no nation can be power-
some Island girls’ schools during the 1880s.
Sadly, as in most other countries, very few Is-
land cooks or their superiors jotted down trade se-
crets. Cooking was mastered by watching, tasting,
sniffing; it was commonly considered an artistic
sensitivity rather than a quantifiable science. So
protective were some cooks that their achieve-
ments are but hazy memories occasionally bor-
dering on fantasy.
The big push forward for cookbooks came
with the American public school sytem’s home
economics, health and sanitation classes. Al-
though Dominican priest, Evaristo Arias, attests
that domestic science was introduced to Filipi-
nas in 1883 at Sta. Isabel College, and cooking
already an even earlier requirement of feminine
education, it was the U.S. school program that
pioneered beyond just the upper strata.
Dur ing colonial per iods in the Philippines,
vigilia food was a major concer n. In cuisine ,
vigilia (or vigil) is the fast kept on the eve of a holiday, a fiesta or day of fe (meaning faith). Vigilia foods were
also eaten on all fasting days required by the Roman Catholic Church.
Salsas Españolas
Se hará her vir y se quitará la espuma en una cazuela á cierta cantidad de sustancia, á la que se añadirá la esencia
de caza menor y de aves, y si se quiere caldo, desen-
grasándolo y pasándolo por un cedazo.
Se prepare tambien con partes iguales de sustancia
y de caldo, un vaso de vino blanco, un manoko de peregil,
una cebolleta, una hoja de laurel, una cabeza de ajo, dos
clavos de especial, dos ó tres cucharadas de aciete, un
manojo de cilantro, una cebolla hecha cuartos, todo lo
cual deberá her vir por does horas, y luego se desengrasa
y añade sal y pimienta.
Con criadillas, setas y suficiente cantidad de
sustancia ó caldo desengrasado, se hace la misma salsa
anterior.
La salsa de vigilia se hace uniando todo el fondo de
una cazuela con maneca, y poniendo en ella zanahorias,
cebollas cortadas en ruedas, y tajadas de pescados de
toda especie; se humedece en seguida con caldo de
vigilia, y se pone á her vir. Se añade ajo, setas y vino blanco
jasta que se reducen á una consistencia regular : se pasa
todo por tamiz, y se conser va para cuando se necesite.
Source: Mariano de Rementeria y Fica, Manual del cocinero, cocinera, re-
postero, pastelero, confitero y botillero (Madrid: Imp. de Dn Norber to
Llorenci, 1851), p. 77.
This recipe is from a book that has been
with a Filipino family for sever al gener a-
tions. As to what was cooked from the recipes, no one is cer tain. But surely the book inspired its owner with Spanish customs that could be attempted in the tropics.
Sopa de Calabaza
Se elige esta perfectamente madura, se le quita la cascara, se la limpia y corta en tiras iguales, y luego se pone en agua hir viendo con sal, escurriéndola é igualando los pedecitos. Hecho esto se colocarán en una cazuela con manteca de vacas, sal, nuez
moscada, y un pco de miga de pan. Se remoja todo
en crema, y se vuelve á poner al fuego, mencán-
dolo de continuo para que la pasta no se pegue.
Se cortan pedazos igaules á los de calabazade pan
de cenleno, y se pone la mitad de la pasta en una
fuente. Honda, colocando encima el pan y la cala-
baza en figura de corona: se cubre despues todo
esto con el resto re la pasta, y se espone á fuego
templado para que se ase poco á poco. Se remoja
el todo con crema muy caliente y la manreca dicha,
sir viendo esta separadamente para los que quieran
liquidar esta sopa.
Source: Mariano de Rementeria y Fica, Manual del cocinero, cocinera,
repostero, pastelero, confitero y botillero (Madrid: Imp. de Dn Norber to
Llorenci, 1851), p. 31-32.
Adobo
Con partes iguales de vinagre y agua se cortain
las cebollas en rebanadas con peregil, ajo, sal y pi-
mienta. Cuando se quieran adobar legumbres para
frier, como escorzonera y apio, se omite el ajo y
la cebolla. Tambien se puede adobar con aceite y
con la misma sazon. Nacese igualmente del modo
siguiente. Se deslie, anteca en una cazuela, se anaden
zanahorias y una cebolla picada menudamente, con
la cantidad suficiente de pimienta, sal, ajo, laurel y
peregil; se humedece el todo con agua ó caldo y
una tercera parte de vinagre, pasándolo despues que
haya cocido por un cedazo. Tambien se pueden ado-
bar todas las carnes que quieran frierse.
Source: Mariano de Rementeria y Fica, Manual del cocinero, cocinera, repos-
tero, pastelero, confitero y botillero (Madrid: Imp. de Dn Norber to
Llorenci, 1851), p. 90.
RECIPE FOR A DAY
Take a dash of water cold,
And add a little leaven of prayer,
A little bit of sunshine gold,
Dissolved in the morning air.
Add to your meal some merriment,
And a thought for kith and kin,
And then as a prime ingredient
Plenty of work thrown in.
But spice it all with the essence of love
And a little whiff of play,
Let a wise old Book and a glance above
Complete the well spent day.
From The Manila Cook Book, compiled by the Guild of Central
Methodist Church and revised by the Women’s Auxiliar y of Union
Church of Manila. Published by The Philippine Education Co.
of Manila, 1919.
The Governor-General’s Kitchen
56 57
Culinar y Codes and Measures

7Felice Prudente Sta. Maria
THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL?S KITCHEN
Philippine Culinary Vignettes
and Period Recipes
1521-1935
THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL?S KITCHEN
Meet Ah Sing, cook of Governor-General William Howard Taft at Malaca?ang Palace in 1901, and
Asing, cook of Jose Rizal at his Hong Kong home in 1892 Q Learn about the manufacture of
GLEQTEKRI JVSQ E ?]IV WUYMVVIPIH E[E] F] 6M^EP MR LMW TSGOIX HMEV] SV QEOI FSPSKRE WEYWEKI
following a handwritten recipe found among his personal papers Q Read about the Monks of the
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boredom Q%TTVIGMEXIMRXVMGEXI4IEGIXMQITETIVTEWXMPPEW[VETTIVWERHXLGIRXYV]LERHGEVZIH
toothpicks from private collections never before seen Q'SQTEVIEREHSFSVIGMTIXS[LEX
SRIIEXWXSHE]Q4VITEVI+EXIEY7ERW6MZEPXLI[E]XLI]HMHMRERH*SSHJSVXLI+SHWMR
SVXEQEPIWJVSQERVIGMTIERHPIGLSRWEYGIJVSQQ1M\SZIVGSGOXEMPWERH
XIQTIVERGIHVMROWJVSQXLIWERHWMRGPYHMRKXLIJEQSYW0MRXMO[LMGLMWXS1ERMPE[LEX
the Sling is to Singapore Q)RNS]XLI?SVMHTSIXV]SJER8EKEPSK?IWXEMRZMXEXMSRGEVHXLIWMPP]
ERXMGWSJGVSGOIV]?WFIWXJVMIRH%KETMXS1EOETMRKKERERHXLIWIVMSYWIJJSVXWXSXIEGLKSSHQERRIVW
through classroom drama Q7IIJSVXLI?VWXXMQIXLILERHWM^I?EKMRWTMVIHQIRYGEVHJVSQXLI
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2YHUHQWULHVIRUQDWLYHVSLFHVDQGPDYRULQJV
Over 160 period recipes
Over 200 listed terms for local cooking utensils
QQQ
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Gov Gen Cover.indd 1 8/30/06 2:08:03 AM

8

9

13????+????+????
How Larry J. Cruz built a business that dened Filipino dining

e wanted to have this book
even long before he got sick.
He would talk about it but he
ran out of time before he could even start
work on it. He wanted to write about what
he had been through as a journalist/
publisher/restaurateur/businessman/
food lover, and share his experiences and
learnings with the younger generation.
For me, publishing this book about
my father is a precious opportunity to
travel back to our life together?a journey
consisting of moments that were happy
and sad, serious and hilarious, but all of
them interesting.Those moments helped
shape my life.
?From the Preface by
Lorna Cruz Ambas
How Larry J. Cruz built a
business that redened
Filipino dining

10
The Albo Cookbook
o Señor Anstcio de Alb    Miuel de Alb
The Albo Cookbook
Señor Anstcio de Alb    Miuel de Alb
F
e

t
u
r i n
n
step-bd-step p

e
l
l

r
e
c
i
p
e
s
Best-Loved Spnish Recipes, Prcticl Tips on Cookin nd the Good Lie
“Señor ws in no w stin with his knowlede o
Spnish cuisine. Gmbs, Slpico, Cllos,
Pells, Lenu nd ll the dishes tht
??
believe were ctull introduced here
b Señor Alb.”
—Che J Gmbo
?
Alb is becuse m rndprents
know him, m prents know him nd
??
dude, Señor Kuls Alb is! You’re the mn!
?
Philippines.”
??
? ??
Ls ndTLdnsTLoS onhdnonhS oerdpSdL,ovd odc -odpodln-Lo
nd  rell dmirble one. I would be with m mother,
?? ?
Theter Guild, s well s the Spnish theter roup Circulo
Ascenico. Mr. Alb strred in Spnish pls like “Peme
Lucino” nd “Los Arboles Mueren de Pie” , comedies in
?
??
???
?
??
‘supper clubs’ Señor opened on streets such s Isc Perl,
Florid nd Dewe Boulevrd. He would tell us how people
used to dress so elentl then nd how lsh crs would
dccocSpsoTroSpoPL-pno-PohS oLs ndTLdpn Co
????
Alba's Cover Final.indd 1 8/1/12 11:21 PM

11
I
t took me four years to write another cookbook. I didn’t think I would write again. My first book, Cooking
lessons, was the fulfillment of a promise I made to my mentor, Doreen Gamboa Fernandez.
But as Doreen said, “Once you start writing, you cannot stop.” I told her at one of our lunches that I only
intended to write one book as a legacy of sorts. She said, “Mark my words, there will be a next one.” She
was right.
Though a major part of this book is about my many and varied experiences in Italy, I cannot wholly devote
this cookbook to the cuisine of the place because I have traveled to and learned food in other places as well.
There are my favorite dishes learned from Lao, Thai, and Vietnamese cuisines. And since my kids grew up in Los
Angeles, California, they have also asked me throw in Mexi-Cali dishes and their favorite Greek mezzes. As they
reasoned out, you cannot be eating the same cuisine everyday. So, take your pick, my dear readers, whether you
want to cook and entertain Thai style, al fresco barbecue dining, Greek style, simple fine dining, Italian style, or
fusion-style party food.
But as with my first book, I have the young housewives, beginners, and the fledgling cooks in mind, too.
Hence, I chose only to include recipes that can be done easily, needing ingredients that are readily available. All
the recipes in this book are to serve six people. My aim is to teach
easy-to-follow recipes that can be duplicated at home without
having to spend too much time in the kitchen. I feel that I achieve
this goal each time I hear comments from friends and strangers
that my Cooking lessons has become their “bible” in the kitchen.
I hope that after trying out the recipes from this new book, this
might become their second kitchen “bible,” as well.
—From the Introduction by Beth Romualdez
Cooking Lessons 2
Beth Romualdez
anvil | food
When Beth Romualdez cooks, she cooks up a storm of
passionate savors. Her second set of Cooking Lessons
reveals how she energetically immersed her spirit
in different culinary cultures, returned to the home
hearth, and then awakened memory to share her
finest finds with anyone who considers cooking one
path to nurturing an elegant love for life.
— Felice Prudente Sta. Maria
OJO! place reggie aspiras text here!!! When Beth Romualdez cooks, she cooks up a storm
of passionate savors. Her second set of Cooking Lessons reveals how she energetically
immersed her spirit in different culinary cultures, returned to the home hearth, and then
awakened memory to share her finest finds with anyone who considers cooking one path .
— Reggie Aspiras
Cooking Lessons 2

Beth Romualdez
Place Barcode hereCooking lessons
Food adventures from around the world
Beth Romualdez
anvil | food
Cooking lessons

Food adventures from around the world

?
Beth Romualdez
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veliquam, venis am, consed dolumsan velendre dia.
?Felice Prudente Sta. Maria

12

LinamnamEating One’s Way Around the Philippines
Claude Tayag and Mary Ann Quioc
Linamnam
Eating One’s Way Around the Philippines
Claude Tayag and Mary Ann Quioc
A foodie couple eats their way around the
Philippines in search of the proverbial Holy
Grail. In this culinary travel guide book, not
only do they lead the reader to the best
eats every region has to offer, scouring the
length and breadth of the archipelago,
but also the why’s and how’s of what
makes each dish unique and outstanding
in its own right. As staunch keepers of
the flame of traditional Philippine cuisine
(albeit leaning to Pampangan), the couple discovers
the sheer variety and intricacies of this multilayered
cuisine, making it easier for the uninitiated to better
understand what makes the Filipino eat what he
eats, debunking the pronouncements of armchair
pundits that Filipino cuisine is all brown, oily and
unappetizing. Indeed, there’s more to it beyond the
adobo, pancit and lumpia.
“Claude Tayag is the true master and greatest spokesman for Pampangan
cuisine. He introduced me to whole new worlds of flavor.”
–Anthony Bourdain
TV personality and author of Kitchen Confidential:
Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly
“The cuisine of the Philippines turned out to be a huge surprise. A meal prepared
for me by artist and gourmand Claude Tayag, in Pampanga, now rates as the
best of my entire life. In particular was a seafood kare-kare stew made with
prawns whose heads you ripped off to allow the fat to dribble into the sauce.”
–Simon Majumbar
Author of Eat My Globe: One Year to Go Everywhere and Eat Everything
“Word of mouth is the way one finds good places to eat around the Philippines;
it is also the way one is warned about bad ones. Mary Ann and Claude provide
a refreshing foil to the ‘praise releases’ that clutter newspapers and magazines.
Checking out everything from fine-dining restaurants aspiring for a Michelin star
to hole-in-the-wall market-side karinderias, Mary Ann and Claude give us more
than a food guide by sharing all the other experiences that accompanied their
meals. Linamnamfills in the gap left by the pioneering Lasa by the late Doreen
G. Fernandez and Edilberto Alegre. It should be on every foodie’s bookshelf and
hopefully on an iPad or cell phone too for easy reference out of town.”
–Ambeth R. Ocampo
Historian and bestselling author
anvil | food
Linamnam
Eating One’s Way Around the Philippines
Claude Tayag and Mary Ann Quioc
ISBN 978-971-27-2640-8
Linamnam cover 061912.indd 1 6/19/12 1:03 PM
By Claude Tayag and Mary Ann Quioc
A foodie couple eats their way around the Philippines in search of the proverbial Holy
Grail. In this culinary travel guide book, not only do they lead the reader to the best
eats every region has to offer, scouring the length and breadth of the archipelago, but
also the why’s and how’s of what makes each dish unique and outstanding in its own
right. As staunch keepers of the flame of traditional Philippine cuisine (albeit leaning
to Pampangan), the couple discovers the sheer variety and intricacies of this multi-
layered cuisine, making it easier for the uninitiated to
better understand what makes the Filipino eats what
he eats, debunking the pronouncements of armchair
pundits that Filipino cuisine is all brown, oily and
unappetizing. Indeed, there’s more to it beyond the
adobo, pancit and lumpia.
“Word of mouth is the way one finds good places to eat around the Philippines;
it is also the way one is warned about bad ones. Mary Ann and Claude provide
a refreshing foil to the “praise releases” that clutter newspapers and magazines.
Checking out everything from fine-dining restaurants aspiring for a Michelin star
to hole-in-the-wall market-side karinderias, Mary Ann and Claude give us more
than a food guide by sharing all the other experiences that accompanied their
meals. Linamnamfills in the gap left by the pioneering Lasa by the late Doreen
G. Fernandez and Edilberto Alegre. It should be on every foodies bookshelf and
hopefully on an i-pad or cell phone too for easy reference out of town.”
–Ambeth R. Ocampo
Historian and bestselling author
Artist, writer, culinary savant – Claude Tayag is all these. But he works with the
heart and soul of a nationalist, defining what is truly Filipino. He is a national
treasure.
–Millet M. Mananquil
Lifestyle Editor, The Philippine Star
anvil | food
Author Claude Tayag shows Anthony Bourdain the best of Pampango cuisine
accompanied by the Philippines’ pride San Miguel Pale Pilsen and San Mig Light.
Linamnam_2ndED_Cover-Revised.indd 1 11/3/14 6:08 PM

Like a cherished heirloom recipe, the Congressional Spouses Foundation,
Inc., (CSFI) also has a long and storied tradition. The group was founded in
1988 by Mrs. Cecilia Mitra, wife of then-House Speaker Ramon Mitra Jr.,
with the primary goal of gathering congressional spouses to undertake
projects that would be of help to their husbands. Initially, membership
was limited to the wives of congressmen, but over time, it opened to
include husbands, parents, siblings and children of the representatives.
In the same manner, I am proud to present to you Salu-salo: A
Celebration of Philippine Culinary Treasures—a collection of unique
recipes from numerous districts in the Philippines. Each dish is a
distillation of our colorful culture, as well as an invitation to visit the
wonderful places from which they came. I hope you enjoy this culinary
journey throughout our beautiful country—one district, one dish, one bite
at a time.
Kain na!
—from the Foreword by Joy Belmonte
The 132 recipes in this book were carefully chosen and put together with
the help of the members of Congress and their spouses. These are dishes
that best represent their districts. In this book, you will ﬁ nd treasured
heirloom recipes that have been passed down through generations, as
well as new ones that have developed and become favorites in their
locales. Particular care was made to ensure that the traditional methods,
from milking a coconut to making suman wrappers from coconut leaves,
as well as the native ingredients from each place were kept and shared in
the book. In many ways, these became the ingredients that have given this
cookbook its distinct ﬂ avor and made it more than just a compilation of
recipes, but also a primer for Filipino culinary history and culture.
—From the Introduction by Mons Romulo
Congressional Spouses Foundation, Inc.A Celebration of Philippine Culinary Treasures

Design Ethics 101
On software, typeface,
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Content is king
Without the final edited
text or
h
igh resolution photograp h,
there is no b
ook

Philippine Cookery
from

hear

to

platter
| Tatung Sarthou
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Barcode
only
About the Author
Michael Giovan Sarthou
III, popularly known as
Chef Tatung, is a chef,
writer and culinary
heritage advocate. He
developed his love for
cooking while growing up in
Cebu where his grandmothers would let him help cook in the
family kitchen. In 2010, he burst onto the restaurant scene
with the popular Chef Tatung’s, which explored Philippine
regional specialties in all their diversity.
Since then, Chef Tatung has become a jovial, engaging
media presence. He has shared his cooking expertise on
such TV shows as The Amazing Food Challenge on the Asian
Food Channel and Food Wars on Food Network. He has been
featured in all major food magazines in the Philippines as
well as in foreign lifestyle magazines. The Philippine Daily
Inquirer named him one of the “Ten People Worth Knowing”
in 2012. F&B World Magazine included him in its list of “Top
Chefs” for 2013. Food Magazine featured him in its “50 Best”
list in December 2013.
In all his endeavors, Chef Tatung champions indigenous
cooking methods, supports small farmers around the
country, and promotes Philippine cuisine. He is one of only
two Filipino chefs invited to speak at Madrid Fusión Manila
2016, the first and only Asian edition of the most important
gastronomy congress in the world held annually in Spain. He
is a regular columnist for FOOD Magazine and he will soon
be presenting a four-part documentary special on Lifestyle
TV called The Food That We Are which takes inspiration from
this book. He also has his own recipe blogazine at
www.lutongtatung.com.
Chef Tatung lives in Quezon City, acting as a parent to his
two nephews. Whenever he is not busy, he spends his time
cooking for his family.
About the book
What is Filipino cuisine? It’s an age-old question with no
simple answer. Philippine Cookery: From Heart to Platter
skirts the question by simply restating it: how do you cook
Filipino? Chef Tatung Sarthou provides the answer, and a
whole lot more, through ten fascinating chapters that delve
into the flavors, ingredients, techniques that constitute a
Philippine-based cuisine.
Rather than classifying this cuisine in nationalist or
regional terms, Sarthou uses cooking method as his entry
point to understanding, tasting and recreating the dishes
of his home country. He goes deep into Filipino cooks’ ways
of steaming, grilling, curing, among many techniques. He
explores this cuisine’s components—vinegar, coconut,
rice, etc. He peppers the book with historical gems, like
Americans’ modernizing influence on pan de sal (salted
bread). He also shares his own memories of cooking with
his mother and grandmother, including a touching anecdote
about how adobo saved his family during World War II.
Philippine Cookery: From Heart to Platter approaches
cooking, not as a cold, mechanical guide, but as a process
that is much more organic and forgiving, where cooks learn
and excel through “feel” and where a recipe is regarded as
a “suggestion” more than a rulebook. As the book’s title
hints, cooking is truly borne out of love, from which values
of honesty, integrity, sense of family, nostalgia play a key
role in teaching how to cook Filipino. Through captivating
photographs, recipes, stories and practical advice, Sarthou
takes readers on a journey through time, space and memory,
offering a road map for them to follow to discover their own
love for cooking.
On the cover
Bringhe is cooked with malagkit (glutinous rice), gata
(coconut milk), turmeric, meat, seafood, vegetables. This
dish traces its lineage, not to a single influence, but rather
to such disparate ones as Spanish paella and Indian biryani.
Today, it can even be cooked in a Chinese kawali or wok.
Bringhe exemplifies the multi-dimensional nature of what
has evolved to become Philippine cuisine, linking a distant
past to a modern present, and hinting at an exciting future.
Tatung Sarthou
Philippine Cookery
f r o m h e a r t t o p l a t t e r

Tatung Sarthou
Philippine Cookery
f r o m h e a r t t o p l a t t e r

6 7
C
hef Tatung is a happy man. That is important when
preparing a Filipino meal. Happiness matters.
Words from around the archipelago characterize
meal expectations to include enjoying the company of
others. The archaic words gara and higara—still active
in Samar and Leyte of 1895—for instance, mean to like
eating in the company of others. The social aspect of eating is as
fundamentally important as the satisfaction from culinary flavors.
That is a primary quality of Philippine culinary heritage.
Naya naya, a forgotten term from central Philippines of the
1880s, represents a critical concept in understanding the creation
of the Filipino meal. Naya naya means the enjoyment derived from
preparing and serving a meal; its second meaning is “a happy person.”
Naya naya is a homegrown Filipino recipe for personal joy. Serve a
good meal and make others enjoy themselves in order to be happy.
Hospitality takes on an added dimension because everyone involved
in the meal is expected to sustain happiness. Naya naya should be
recognized as the singular essence of Philippine culinary tourism.
This book focuses on the cooking procedures that produce dishes
Filipinos relish and take pride in. The meal is the tangible dimension;
happiness is supposed to be the meal’s attitude. Chef Tatung mentors
readers through la batterie de cuisine, heat control and indices of
culinary expertise. He also offers stories about the procedures and
Foreword
Spirit of the meal

20 21
Chapter 1
Inin, pananukan | simmering
Laga, pakulo | boiling
Lotlot | cooking in bamboo
Pesa | boiling plainly

22 23
L
earning how to cook can be one of the most rewarding
and gratifying pleasures in life. Cooking begins by
putting a pot of water over fire. If you can do that, you
can cook! Think of it this way: you are asked to boil a pot
of water. But before you do, you toss pieces of chicken
and aromatics like onions, ginger, and lemongrass into
the pot. If your instincts tell you what to do next, then you can cook.
One of my fondest childhood memories is that of my mother
preparing a simple meal for me: a bowl of hot rice softened in clear
soup, with shredded boiled meat and chopped vegetables. In Cebu,
this manner of eating soup with rice is called bahog. In Pampanga,
it’s called ambula, while in Ilocos, it’s labay. Hot soup also warms
up leftover rice or bahaw perfectly. A hearty bowl of soup using the
simple method of boiling is all you need to feed your loved ones.
In Tagalog, the verb kulo means “to boil,” while laga refers to
the process of cooking by boiling. The word kulo traces its origin to
the Chinese words ku (ebullient or boiling) and lo (water). Cooking
with boiling water is a fundamental act of survival, a method used
since our ancestors learned to cook with clay pots, and before that,
bamboo tubes.
From kulo to luto

26 27
Laswa
Boiled vegetable soup with shrimp
When making vegetable soup, put in the
vegetables one by one, starting with those
that require the longest cooking time to
tenderize, like kalabasa and gabi. The
starch from these vegetables renders
richness to the soup. Add the leafy greens
last. Season lightly enough for you to taste
the flavors of the various elements put into
the dish, even if it is cooked in one pot. Serves 4 as main dish or 6 as starter
4 to 5 cups water
2 medium tomatoes, cut into wedges
1 medium yellow onion, quartered
2 stalks lemongrass, root pounded, leaves knotted
6 okra, sliced
1/2 cup cubed kalabasa (squash)
200 grams shrimp, trimmed
1/4 cup alugbati leaves, trimmed
1/4 cup malunggay leaves
2 siling pansigang (green finger chilies)
Patis (fish sauce)
Black pepper, to taste
1. Boil water in a cooking pot. Add tomatoes and onion. Cook covered for 3 to
4 minutes.
2. Add lemongrass, okra and kalabasa. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes or until tender.
3. Add shrimp and cook for 2 minutes.
4. Add alugbati, malunggay leaves and siling pansigang,stir and continue
cooking for 1 minute.
5. Season with patis and black pepper. Serve hot.

28 29
Convenience and flavor
Bouillon cubes and powders were conceived to help the home cook
who may not have the time or resources to cook dishes from scratch,
or commercial kitchens that need to serve huge quantities of food
daily. Bouillon cubes used to be made by extracting the flavor from
meat bones and evaporating the liquid completely, leaving behind
a flavorful paste stored in capsules. These days, manufacturers use
synthetic or chemically designed “nature-identical” seasonings
instead to mimic the real thing.
There is a dramatic difference between dishes cooked the
traditional way—long, slow, with fresh and quality ingredients—
and those that use convenience products. Many of these products
are sodium-based, with artificial flavorings made with oil-based
or water-soluble chemicals that mimic the flavor and aroma of
real ingredients. These products are enhanced with artificial food
coloring, monosodium glutamate and preservatives. They are
aggressive in flavor and tend to over-stimulate the palate, making
you salivate while eating. They also tend to mute the flavor of “real”
food.
If you use too much of these artificial flavorings on a regular
basis, you can become accustomed to their taste profile. While these
products are indeed convenient, they do not necessarily translate
to quality. If you do choose to use bouillon cubes or powders, here’s
what to do:
Use these products only when really necessary for simple
recipes with ingredients that don’t have enough flavor or for recipes
that require stock (when it is not available). For dishes with many
ingredients, they may not be needed at all.
Use less than the recommended amount and supplement the
dish with fresh, natural ingredients. Make sure to use it as a base,
not as the main flavoring agent.
Don’t use it in everything you cook. Using one flavor base for all
your dishes will take away from the flavor dynamics of your menu.
Everything ends up having the same aftertaste. Use it only on the
dish that needs it most and let the other dishes shine on their own.

36 37
pineapple
libas
mango
alibangbang
pingol-bato or
begonia
Souring agents
Pampaasim
calamansi
guava
batuan
tamarind
tomato
santol
dayap
tamarind
flower
kamias
miso
A variety of local fruits are used to produce
nuanced degrees of acidity and fruitiness
in sinigang, with the most common being
unripe sampaloc (tamarind fruit). The chosen
souring agent gives each sinigang its particular
character: fruity and floral or tangy and citrusy.

42 43
Boiling in bamboo
Any dish that can be cooked in a metal pot can be cooked in bamboo.
According to Philippine History by Maria Christine Halili, our ancestors
used bamboo tubes as well as earthen pots to cook their meals. Today,
several ethnic groups continue to rely on the resilient bamboo. Aetas
use young bamboo (bulo ) to cook rice, influencing such dishes as pangat
na ulang, a well-loved shrimp soup from Pampanga. The Bagobo of
Davao del Sur use a similar bamboo cooking method called lotlot or
lyurot. Chef Isidro Tadtad, who specializes in indigenous Mindanao
cuisine, describes the lotlotan cooking method thus: ingredients are
inserted inside the open end of the bamboo tube. Water, oil, salt or
spices then go in. The open end is plugged with a banana leaf to ensure
that the contents are kept inside and to seal in the heat, preventing it
from escaping the bamboo tube. The tube is then exposed to fire and
rotated occasionally.
Other dishes cooked in bamboo include delicious chicken binacol,
stewed with coconut milk, lemongrass and ginger, from the Visayas,
particularly Aklan and Iloilo, as well as Batangas in Luzon. A favorite
kakanin called suman (a glutinous rice cake) is steamed inside a
bamboo tube, and served with sugar or sometimes grated coconut.
In Vigan, there is tinubong, a rice mixture poured into bamboo tubes
then broiled. In Piat, Cagayan, you’ll find tuao tinubong made from
malagkit (sticky rice), gata (coconut milk) and salt.
Cooking with bamboo may be an ancient method, but it is an
ideal cooking vessel for today’s environment-conscious times. Fast
growing and abundant, bamboo is the ultimate eco-friendly cooking
vessel. Here’s how to use it in your cooking:
• Choose young or green bamboo shoots. Tubes with inside diameters of 1 3/4 inches or more
are considered the best size for use in cooking.
• Pour enough water inside the bamboo tube when cooking. Without water, fire or heat could
burn through the bamboo and damage the food. For those dishes that may take longer to
cook, make sure to add more liquid or water during cooking.
• Use banana leaves to cover the open end of the bamboo tube during cooking.

44 45
Linutlot na hito
Catfish cooked in bamboo
Serves 3 to 4
1 large hito (catfish), cut into small pieces to fit inside bamboo tube
1 knob ginger, 2 inches long, sliced
6 shallots, chopped
3 tomatoes, quartered
1 head garlic, crushed
1/2 cup vinegar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 piece siling pansigang (finger chili), sliced
4 stalks lemongrass, tied into a bundle
young bamboo tube, open on one end
banana leaves for sealing
1. In a bowl, combine hito, ginger, shallots, tomatoes, garlic, vinegar and salt.
Add siling pansigang. Mix well.
2. Stuff lemongrass into the bamboo tube, Add the hito mixture. Seal open end
of bamboo with banana leaves.
3. Lay bamboo tube diagonally over an open fire and turn every so often to
cook evenly. When bamboo begins to get charred, the hito is cooked. Split
open bamboo tube in half and serve hito with steamed rice.

48 49
Chapter 2
Barbecue | grilled meats and seafood on sticks
Ihaw, sugba, dangdang | grilled directly over fire
Inato | grilled chicken seasoned with salt
Insarabasab | scorched over an open fire
Lechon, litson, inasal | roasted whole on a spit
or using a rotisserie
Linigeb | “grilled” in Palawan (Cuyanon dialect)

74 75
Sawsawan and other saucy encounters
Whether in a roadside barbecue joint or at home, it is nearly impossible
to eat a meal in the Philippines without an accompaniment of dips
and sauces known as sawsawan. It is up to the diner to create his own
dip using the basic ingredients of vinegar (suka), soy sauce (toyo),
fish sauce (patis), mixed with siling labuyo or calamansi--the building
blocks of almost every sawsawan and a key to achieving distinct
Filipino flavors with every meal. While there are no rules, ideally
choose a dip with a contrasting or complementing flavor rather than
a dip with the same flavor profile. The dips featured here go beyond
the traditional vinegar-based sawsawan .
Grilled eggplant,
minced garlic,
tomatoes, onions,
vinegar, patis,
pepper
Sautèed red
tomatoes, garlic,
salt, pepper
Purèed green
mango, salt,
pepper Soy sauce,
calamansi
Torn wansuy
leaves, diced
tomatoes, red
onions, dayap,
patis, pepper
Bagoong alamang
(fermented
shrimp paste)
Sarsa mongha:
olive oil, pickled
shallots, olives,
sliced garlic,
salt, pepper,
breadcrumbs
Pulped
sampalok,
salt, pepper
Sautèed miso,
tomatoes, onions,
salt, pepper
Sautèed
tahure
(fermented
beancurd)
tomatoes,
onions, salt,
pepper
Patis,
calamansi,
siling labuyo
Bagoong isda
sliced kamias
fruit, dayap
Minced
siling
labuyo,
salt

76 77
Chapter 3
Kinilaw | souring, cooking with acid
Atchara | pickling
Ensalada | salads
100 101
Chapter 4
Pinasingaw | steaming
Halabos | steaming, especially crab, shrimp
and shellfish in their own juices
Saing | cooking rice by boiling until liquid
is fully evaporated
124 125
Chapter 5
Guinataan | cooked in coconut milk
Pinaitum | burnt coconut
Tinutungan | smoked coconut
152 153
Chapter 6 Gisa | sauté or stir-fry
176 177
Chapter 7 Prito | Searing, pan frying, deep frying
198 199
Chapter 8 Adodo | braised in vinegar Caldereta | stewed in tomato sauce Estofado | stewed or cooked in brown sauce,
usually with caramelized sugar or soy sauce
Kinulob | braised in a covered pot, sometimes with
banana leaves and cooked over low fire

88 89
Kinilaw na malasugue
Blue marlin with vinegar
Serves 3
DRESSING
3/4 cup coconut vinegar
1 teaspoon ginger, minced
sugar, optional (to balance acidity of vinegar)
juice and rind of 6 calamansi or 2 dayap
siling pansigang (green finger chilies), to taste, sliced diagonally
salt or patis, to taste
KINILAW
300 grams fresh malasugue or tuna fillets, cut into 3/4-inch cubes
1/4 cup coconut vinegar, for rinsing fish
1 cup cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced
1 onion, sliced into strips
2 tomatoes, seeded and sliced into wedges
1/2 cup coconut milk or to taste
chopped wansuy (cilantro), for garnish
1. To make the dressing, mix together vinegar, ginger, sugar if using, calamansi
or dayap, salt or patis, and chilies. Set aside.
2. Rinse fish in vinegar and strain. Discard vinegar used for washing.
3. Place fish in a ceramic bowl and toss with cucumber, onion and tomatoes.
4. Pour dressing over fish, mix then chill. Just before serving, add coconut milk.
Garnish with chopped wansuy.

160 161
A kawali for all seasons
Imagine life before the kawali came. There was only the palayok
which was breakable, porous and best used for boiling or stewing.
But Chinese traders soon brought iron pots and pans, and especially
the wok or kawali, a round-bottomed metal pan from Guangdong
province in China. Also known as kaha or carajay, it is said to come
from the Chinese root word khah or “cooking vessel.” When Chinese
traders introduced the kawali to the natives, its popularity caught
on. This ushered an era of culinary discovery for the Filipino
cook. The kawali’s versatility, as well as the introduction of oil as a
cooking medium, allowed the home cook to reinterpret indigenous
recipes using more complex cooking methods to achieve more layers
of flavors and interesting new textures that were not possible with
basic cooking methods. The giant kawali, initially called a kawa,
became a workhorse at fiestas as it made cooking in large batches
possible.
When you purchase a brand new kawali, you need to season it
first so that it will retain the flavors of your gisa and last for a very
long time. Here are some reminders about how to treat your kawali
properly:
• Wash your new kawali with warm soapy water to remove machine oil and other industrial
residue from the factory.
• Dry your kawali thoroughly using a kitchen towel or paper towels.
• Once it is dry, place it on your stove and turn on the flame. Allow the kawali to heat up
but do not let it reach its smoking point.
• Pour in a little oil and rotate the kawali to spread the oil across the bottom, and to heat
up all parts of the kawali.
• Turn off fire and allow the kawali to cool. With the use of a towel or a paper napkin, wipe
off the oil inside the pan, then wipe the bottom of the kawali to oil it as well.
• Repeat the heating, oiling and wiping process 3 to 4 times.
• Once the kawali is seasoned, don’t use soap on it. Just rinse it with hot water and scrub
with a sponge or brush. You can use rock salt to remove stubborn dirt.
• Follow every washing with drying over low heat, then wiping it with a lightly oiled cloth.

158 159
The basic guide to making gisa
Cooking the garlic is crucial. The flavor can
range from sweet to tangy to toasty to
bitter, depending on how long it is cooked.
Some recommend putting the garlic in
before the pan gets fully heated up so that
more of the garlic flavor is infused in the
oil. Others prefer to start with the onion.
However, it really depends on the flavor
profile you intend to create from the gisa.
For more flavor, start by rendering pork
fat and sautéing the aromatics in the pork
lard. Or else, first sear the meat on all sides
until brown, remove it, and then follow with
the aromatics. Then return the meat to the
kawali and add liquid to tenderize the meat
and make into a stew.
2 tablespoons oil or a thick piece of fat, about 1 1/2 x 1 inch
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 onion, finely chopped
2 tomatoes, roughly wedged
1. Heat the kawali over medium fire and add oil or render pork fat.
2. Add the garlic. Move it around with a sandok and allow it to brown lightly. Be
careful not to burn the garlic.
3. Add onion and sauté until tender and translucent.
4. Add tomatoes and toss around with the onions and garlic. Allow excess
liquid to evaporate.
The key is the sahog
The sahog are those little bits of joy diners look for when eating their vegetables or
noodles. The term sahog refers to the minor components of a dish, but can also mean
the principal flavoring ingredients: mostly meat, poultry or seafood (sometimes
pre-cooked), but not including the standard noodles and gisa. You can upgrade
the dish for an important occasion or special dinner guest by simply adding more
sahog. Thus, a ma-sahog na pancit (noodles rich with ingredients) becomes the extra
special, enriched version of a workaday pancit. Our everyday ginisang gulay (sautéed
vegetables) can become ginisang sitaw, okra, petchay, talong, kalabasa, repolyo and
the list goes on. Add soup stock to the gisa to transform soups into monggo, patola,
upo and even sinigang.

252 253
Chapter 10
Binuro | brined or salted cooked rice to ferment foods
such as fish, eggs and vegetables
Inasinan, inasnan | salted or salt cured
Pinatuyo, dinaing | dried
Pinausukan, tinapa | smoked fish, fowl and meat

14
The purpose of creating communication materials in both
print and digital format is to promote, support, and
supplement a marketing program or an advocacy.
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15
In less than a year, Rustan’s Supermarket
SansRival Magalogue (magazine
+catalogue) became a byword in
customer service publication. It has
developed a cult-following and it’s fan-
base is growed exponentially.

16
Three things to consider
The Design Brief: The heart and soul of a concept; this will
help streamline ideas that focus on the design solution rather
than the problem.
Organizing information: Handling volatile materials like text
and photos; and also time-table, work-flow and staff
Imagination and Reason: Executing your design with the right
tools; the template, the grid, typeface, color and image that
are persuasive and effective.
The Art of Breakfast
SansRival
The pleasures of tasteVolume 1 • No. 1 April 2011

177PMVNFt/Pt%FDFNCFS
fie pleasure of taste
fiflfl
1.Choose your editorial and creative team carefully

18
sansRival
Your monthly journal on the pleasures of taste
Volume 1 • No. 1 • March 2011
Breakfast of Champions
Margins: .125 inches on all sides
Rustans Logo dimensions: w:1.8523 in x h:1.0611 in
Color guide:
C40-Y100 M100-Y100C20-M10-Y10-K70
2.Generate a simple, yet a very strong concept

19Gastronomika 2
Gastronomika is a theme-based, idea-driven, consumer service publication that will
showcase Rustan?s Supermarket?s range of products.
With authoritative, informative and entertaining articles from published writers, coupled
with forward-looking editorial design and crisp and clear photography, Gastronomika will
soon become the most sought-after publication in its category.
Gastronomika will advocate fresh views and inspiring insights on the true essence of
gastronomy*:
r
Gastronomy is the reasoned knowledge of everything
that concerns man as he eats; it facilitates choice, because it
helps us to understand what true quality is.
r
Gastronomy enables us to experience educated
pleasure and to learn pleasurably. Man as he eats is culture;
thus gastronomy is culture, both material and immaterial.
r Choice is a human right; gastronomy is freedom of
choice. Pleasure is also everybody?s right and as such must be
as responsible as possible
r Gastronomy is a creative matter, not a destruc?tive
one. Knowledge is everybody?s right as well, but also a duty,
and gastronomy is education.
r Gastronomy enables us to live the best life possible
using the resources available to us and stimulates us to improve
our existence.
r Gastronomy is a science that analyzes happiness.
Through food, which is a universal and immediate language,
a component of identity, and an object of exchange, it reveals
itself as one of the most powerful forms of peace diplomacy.
_________________________
* from Carlo Petrini?s book Slow Food Revolution
Pr?cis
3.Have a clear design brief
It was a succesful launch but there were some glitches.
Make sure that you are aware of it and address them
swiftly and accordingly.
BRIEFF
Rustans SansRival The Pleasure of Taste F
Volume 1, Number 7 | September-‐October 2011F
36 pages | Article Line-‐upF
Theme: Germany / Oktoberfest.F
Page 1 Cover – courtesy of the German ClubF
They will provide the following on Monday:F
-‐ Brezel (Pretzel)F
-‐ Wienerli Sausage with Potato SaladF
-‐ Hungarian Sausage with Mashed Potato and SauerkrautF
-‐ Frankfurter Sausage with Mashed Potato and SauerkrautF
-‐ German BreadF
-‐ typical German beer mugF
On a red and white or a blue and white gingham patterned tableclothF
Page 2 Staff Box, TOCF
Page 3 Editor’s Notes – Wunderbar, my soft introduction to German CuisineF
Page 4-5 mainCourse – The German Club -‐ History, new directions by Joseph Cortes F
Page 6-7 mainCourse -‐Octoberfest by Tracey PascaF
Page 8-9 SansRival Recommends: German Herbs and SpicesFF
1.Dill
2.Hungarian Paprika
3.Parsley
4.Vanilla
5.Mustard
6.Caraway
7.Marjoram
8.Nutmeg
9.Root Parsley
N.B. We will do the recipe spread similar to SR Vol 1 no. 3F
We will shoot the ingredients on the left and place the text on the right (for all the recipes).F
Page 10-11FCarrot Cream Soup with Cream Cheese DumplingsF F
Ingredients: F
•3 T. butter
•1 small onion, chopped
•2 1/2 c. carrots, peeled and chopped or 3/4 lb.F
•1 medium potato, peeled and choppedF
•1 1/2 T. lemon juice
•3 c. beef broth or vegetable brothF
•1 c. dry white wine
•1/2 tsp. sugar (optional)F
•1/2 c. cream
•Salt and pepper to taste
•Chopped chives for decoration (optional)F
.
Dumplings:F
•8 oz. cream cheese
•1 egg
•1/2 c. breadcrumbs
•1/4 tsp. salt or to taste
•Pepper and freshly ground nutmeg to taste
Page 12-13FGermanFPotato SaladF
IngredientsF
•3 -‐ 4 boiled Potatoes
•3 slices Bacon
•1 medium Onion
•1 teaspoon FlourF
•1 tablespoon Mustard
•¼ cup chopped Celery
•2 tablespoons fresh chopped Parsley
•¼ cup Apple Cider Vinegar
•1 tablespoon Sugar
•½ teaspoon Salt
•¼ teaspoon Pepper
•½ cup Water
Page 14-15FHow to Make Sauerkraut -‐ By Martin MasadaoF
IngredientsFF
•A glass jar with a plastic lid
•1 medium sized cabbage (1 kg)F
•4 tbsp kefir whey
•1 tbsp sea salt
•1 tbsp caraway seeds or fresh chopped dillF
Page 16-17 -‐ Beer Garden Culture in Germany c/o Ige F
Page 18-19 - Farmers BreakfastF
IngredientsF
•4 Potatoes
•6 Eggs
•6 slices Bacon
•¼ cup Milk
•1 Onion
•1 tablespoon ButterF
•Salt as per taste
•Freshly Ground Black Pepper as per taste
Sidebar on Breakfast:F
FrühstückF
At a typical German house, breakfast will generally comprise bread, cold cuts, cheese, eggs, honey, and
coffee or tea. Cold cuts could include meats like ham, salami, liverwurst and these are combined with a
variety of cheeses. If you visit a German household, you will be served may different types of breads and
rolls as well. Yogurt, quark (which is a variety of cream cheese), fruits, and muesli are also common
breakfast staples.F
Page 20-21 Mustard Pork Chops F
Volume 1 • No. 2 • April 2011
Guilty Pleasures
The pleasure of taste
sansRival

20
A good design brief is vital to the success of a project
The design brief serves as the guiding document for the project. Think of it as like a business
plan for a specific project.
Your design brief should cover everything necessary to execute the project, in a manner that is
easy to refer to throughout the project timeline.
Make notes on your design brief once you start the project. Keep your proposal along with
it, as well as other documents. Highlight the important parts of each, or make notes in the
margins. Don’t just look it over at the beginning and then file it away somewhere. Using the
design brief throughout the process can effectively result in a much better end product.
Each design project is unique. A thorough, articulate design brief is a critical part of the design
process.
The Design Brief: is the heart and soul of a concept;
it will help streamline ideas that focus on the design
solution rather than the problem.
Healthy start
January February 2013
January-February
Theme
Healthy lifestyle
Main course
A chef’s “foodie” new year’s resolution
SansRival Recommends
A chef’s “foodie” new year’s resolution
SansRival livePantry
Healthy alternatives, fibers and anti-oxidants
grapeVine
Wine for your heart
April
Theme
Summer Food Festival
Main course
The art of barbecue
SansRival Recommends
The picnic pantry
SansRival livePantry
Picnic and summer classics
grapeVine
non-alcoholic, thirst quenching drinks
Summer
April 2013

21
•Client c
•Industry sector:
•Client contact details:
•Project type and title:
•Prepared by:
•Background that has led to this design
brief…
•What is the clients unique selling
proposition?
•Who are the clients key competitors?
•Prepare a competition matrix
•Who is the target audience for the
project?
•What is the business objective of the
project?
•What existing materials should we be
aware of?
•What are the “NON NEGOTIABLE”
elements of the design?
•Copy (text), logos and images
•Specifications of items required
•Production timetable and deadlines
•Budget guidelines
Design brief: Questionaires

22
This is the first question you should ask before embarking on a design or an editorial project.
Market or target audience:
Demographics
• Gender
• Age
group
• Educational attainment
• Income bracket
• Niche grouping / organization / club
Who is your target audience?

23

24
1
Rustan’s Supermarket sansRival magalogue
Creative Strategic Planning Workshop Report • March 2012
4. The strategic use of •Grid •Typeface •Color •Layout
Will define your publication’s DNA

25
Editor-in-Chief Ige Ramos
Managing Editor Glenna Aquino
Associate Editor Roda Masinag
Art Director Joan Soro
Photography Stanley Ong
Food Stylist Sandee Masigan
Contributing Editors Joseph Cortes
Alya Honasan
Technical Editor Marlon De Leon
Management LDV and Associates
Rustan Supercenters, Inc.
Ambassador Bienvenido R. Tantoco, Sr.
C�� E��, RSCI
President & CEO Donnie V. Tantoco
VP Marketing Division Frances J. Yu
AVP Marketing Division Aggie G. Artadi
Ad & Promo Manager Tet F. Bachmann
Ad & Promo Coordinator Vangie S. Isla
Published monthly by Rustan Supercenters, Inc.
4th ﬂ oor, Morning Star Center, 347 Sen Gil Puyat
Ave., Makati City. Telefax: 899-1915.
Website: www.rustansfresh.com. Follow us on
twitt er at htt p://twitt er.com/rustansfresh and like
us on facebook at htt p://www.facebook.com/
rustansfresh
Rustan’s sansRival magalogue is distributed
for free to the members of the Fresh Shopping
rewards and Star Sapphire card members.
Copyright ©2011 Rustan Supercenter, Inc. All
rights reserved. Neither this publicati on nor any
part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval
system or transmitt ed in any form or by any
means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording or otherwise, without the prior
permission of sansRival magalogue.
Neither Rustan Supercenter, Inc. nor sansRival
magalogue nor its agents accept liability for
loss or damage to any material submitt ed for
publicati on. All informati on correct at the ti me of
going to press.
Rustan’s Supermarket Greenbelt 1 • Makati-
Glorietta • Rockwell • Shangri-La Plaza • Gateway
Mall • Corinthian Hills • Katipunan • San Antonio
• Tomas Morato • Magallanes • Fairview • Ayala,
Cebu • Banawa, Cebu
President’s Message
Welcome to the maiden issue of sansRival, Rustan’s new magazine/catalogue,
which will showcase our superstore’s range of products. This monthly, theme-
based and idea driven “magalogue” has been created with you, our customer in
mind, understanding your needs while at the same time advocating fresh views
and hopefully giving inspiring insights on gastronomy and food trends along
with information on our latest offerings. In this way, the publication’s slogan:
“Pleasure of taste for the discerning palate,” will be truly reflected.
The theme of our first issue is breakfast, not just any breakfast, but the breakfast
of champions. Here we feature some of those who are champions in their own
field—Lisa Macuja in performing arts, Ricky Santiago in sports, and Nina Yuson
in cultural work—on why breakfast is the most important meal of the day for
them. Also in this issue we offer our readers special features on a range of
breakfast essentials that will help them to make quality choices.
I enjoin readers who are enthusiastic about current food trends and the finer
points of gastronomy to follow us every month. As we love to hear from our
readers, we encourage you to send us your feedback.
Have a pleasurable shopping!
Donnie V. Tantoco
President, Rustan’s Supermarket
The pleasure of taste for the discerning palate
mainCourse
| Breakfast of champions 5
Nina Lim-Yuson | All important starter 6
Busy educator and founder of Museo Pambata takes ti me out to talk about breakfast.
Lisa Macuja-Elizalde | Energy booster 8
The prima ballerina of Ballet Manila delights in healthy breakfast at home and abroad.
Ricky Santi ago | Kicks up a breakfast 10
Taekwondo black belter starts his day with care and att enti on to this all important meal.
sansRival recommends
| Breakfast essenti als 14
Your basic shopping list for a healthy and hearty breakfast
sansRival recommends
| The fresh choice 16
Check out the ready to cook breakfast entrées available for you to easily prepare.
slowFood
| Breakfast at Benny’s 20
Have a healthy breakfast of whole wheat pancakes and eggs benedict.
wellBeing
| A salute to the sun 22
Yoga teacher Alya Honasan writes about yoga and the early riser.
innerBeauty
| A beauti ful start 24
Morning rituals help you begin each new day in the right way.
fastFood
| No ti me to cook 26
Quick breakfast fi xings and assorted fruit shakes
grapeVine
| Champagne breakfast 28
A great way to celebrate a special day or milestone
topShelf
30
Rustan’s recommends high-quality and upscale brands for our discerning customers.
4 March 2011
SansRival VOL1 NO1.indd 4 3/3/11 9:07:35 PM
IT’s called “breakfast ” for a reason—it ’s
your first taste of food after a long night of
rest for both the body and mind, and it ’s
the all-important fuel to get your mental
and physical systems moving. Many people
have, intentionally or not, ceased to be
“breakfast people,” grabbing a cup of
coffee before their morning commute and
settling for food they can bring in a bag. Yet,
health studies have repeatedly shown that
breakfast is not just the most important
meal of the day, but it also determines how
the rest of that day will go. A good breakfast
increases energy, aids in weight loss, lifts
your mood, and helps fight off disease and
stress.
On a more sublime note, taking the time
to sit at the breakfast table means taking
stock and preparing for what lies ahead.
Beginning the day face-to-face with loved
ones can remind us of why we work so
hard in the first place. Even a solo breakfast
gives us precious quiet time to think, clear
the mind, and renew the heart, especially
after well-loved rituals or a good work-
out. Whether or not you’re a “champion”
in your field—a prima ballerina, wife, and
mother who balances her time between art
and family, a taekwondo black-belter and
businessman who’s perpetually on the go, a
museum director in constant need of energy
as well as creativity, or anybody for that
matter—we could all benefit from a good
start, so we can all become “champions” in
our own ways.
Breakfast of champions
5sansRival
SansRival VOL1 NO1.indd 5 3/3/11 9:07:40 PM
Lisa’s Breakfast menu
Two medium-sized bananas•
A large mug of brewed •
coffee with cream and sugar
One bowl of slow-cooked •
oatmeal with milk and sugar
One glass of freshly •
squeezed orange juice
(Optional) Leftovers from •
previous night’s dinner
For prima ballerina Lisa Macuja-Elizalde, breakfast
is a most important meal because she considers it
as her “health food” for the day. Indeed, breakfast
gives her energy for the physically strenuous
schedule that awaits her almost on a daily basis. As
the principal ballerina and artistic director of Ballet
Manila, Lisa spends much of her time in the studio
taking ballet classes. It takes even longer than
usual when her company has shows, and she has to
attend rehearsals.
Lisa normally wakes up as early as 6 am, as she
takes it upon herself to take her two kids, Missy and
Manuel, to school. She enjoys what she describes
as a “huge” mug of coffee while the children are
having breakfast. It is when she comes back home
that she eats her own breakfast—or what would
often turn out to be brunch. By that time, her
husband Fred would be awake, and the two of
them spend the rest of the morning together until
she has to attend to her dancing by 1 pm.
The oatmeal and the bananas actually fulfill
crucial roles in maintaining the ballerina’s health.
“I have high cholesterol because of genes I’ve
inherited from my mother ’s side of the family.
The oatmeal, fish oil, and exercise keep it in check
without having to drink medicine,” she explains.
“As for the bananas, my doctor recommended this
to me around two years ago in order to prevent
muscle spasms, which had started to occur more
frequently. I guess it ’s because of age and the
dancing that I still do. So, I have two bananas daily
to give me the potassium and magnesium I need
for my muscles.”
Sometimes, when she feels particularly hungry,
Lisa asks for other food to be prepared. If there
are leftovers from the night before, these would
be reheated and served to her. But if there’s none,
other light dishes would be cooked.
LISA MACUJA’S energy booster
By Susan de Guzman
Bananas
Brewed coffee
Freshly-squeezed orange juice
Slow-cooked oatmeal with strawberries
and blackberries
8 March 2011
SansRival VOL1 NO1.indd 8 3/3/11 9:08:09 PM
A multi-tasker, she finds it convenient to boot her laptop and get
some tasks done in between taking her oatmeal and bananas.
Normally, she is online answering dozens of e-mails, both
personal and work-related, and posting messages on Facebook.
Conversation is also part of the morning menu. When the kids are
still around, Lisa gets to talk to them about school, current events,
ballet, and video games, not to mention the pluses and minuses of
various iPad applications. Lisa says she practically covers the same
ground with Fred, except for the computer stuff.
“Usually what Fred and I end up discussing would be travel and
vacation plans, family matters, and unavoidably, business matters.
I am like Fred’s secretary in the office. I do lots of phone calls and
even e-mails for him,” says Lisa.
Speaking of vacation, does she get to take the same “healthy”
breakfast when she is on a trip? Lisa sheepishly admits that when
she’s off from dancing and doesn’t have to be conscious of her
healthy diet, she gives herself some treats. “I skip the oatmeal for
Eggs Benedict, salmon with cream cheese on a bagel, and cheese
omelets—my favorite breakfast foods—especially since they
are usually on the menus of the hotels we stay in. I tend to do
comparison eating.”
But there’s no other “sinful” breakfast than the one Lisa indulges
in after a performance when it ’s a day off from dancing. “I am
normally famished in the morning after a performance, and I treat
myself to my cheeseburger and fries. In fact, my staff anticipates
this already—as long as I’ve had a performance, they already
know I will want my cheeseburger and fries the next day,” Lisa
says.
The “fast-food combo” is a far cry from the Russian breakfast that
Lisa got used to as a student in St. Petersburg and later, as a soloist
of the Kirov Ballet. Back then, morning fare would consist of a
modest toast, butter, and cheese and a cup of coffee. Sometimes,
when it was available, she would have salami or sausage. “ This
was a typical Russian breakfast for me, because of the speed and
convenience in preparing it and the availability. I avoided cooking
on the stove when I was in Russia,” the ballerina says laughingly.
Today, Lisa’s breakfast is capped by a vitamin “cocktail” that
includes fish oil, glucosamine, multi-vitamins, anti-oxidants,
vitamin B-complex, and vitamin C, as advised by her doctor. Her
choice items for breakfast, along with the vitamin supplements,
jumpstart Lisa’s morning, and get her ready to face the physical
challenges of each day.

I skip the oatmeal for Eggs
Benedict, salmon with cream
cheese on a bagel, and
cheese omelets—my favorite
breakfast foods—especially
since they are usually on the
menus of the hotels we stay
in. I tend to do comparison
eating
The prima ballerina Lisa Macuja-Elizalde on her toes
9sansRival
SansRival VOL1 NO1.indd 9 3/3/11 9:08:09 PM
Chicken longganisa (P206.00/kilo)
Chicken inasal cut ups (P186.00/klo)
Peppered chicken breast fillet (P250.00/kilo)
Pork chop, boneless/skinless (P244.00/ kilo)
Prosciutto Marchigiano from Le Margie’ (P147.50/100g, available only
in Rustan’s Supermarket branches in Shangri-La, Makati, and Rockwell)
Chicken tocino (P215.00/kilo)
Aussie Fresh breakfast steak (P389.00/kilo)
17sansRival
SansRival VOL1 NO1.indd 17 3/3/11 9:09:49 PM
Breakfast at Benny’s
This favorite hangout at Rustan’s Makati offers all kinds of fuel to start your day, from the light to the hearty
Whole wheat pancakes
20 March 2011
SansRival VOL1 NO1.indd 20 3/3/11 9:10:01 PM
cheese and served with a generous helping
of salsa are served on a sizzling plate. An
order comes with tortillas. The combination
of eggs and cheese is a wake-upper, while
the salsa of chopped tomatoes, onions, and
peppers adds a spicy touch to this treat. An
order is good for one, but you can easily
share the eggs with a companion.
For those who want something traditional,
there is a choice between an egg or two-
eggs Benedict. Sliced ham is served on an
English muffin and topped with a poached
egg and served with a generous helping
of Hollandaise sauce. The egg, or eggs if
you go for the two-egg order, is simply
delightful, poached just right to set the egg
white. When you slice through it with your
knife, the yolk simply bursts on your plate.
Mix it with the Hollandaise sauce, and you
have a mouth-watering mouthful.
If you want a real omelet, there’s a choice
between the two- and three-egg omelet
with your preferred choice of filling. But if
you want a heavy rice meal, then the Beef
Tapa is it. It comes with a cup of garlic rice, a
fried egg, and relish. The usual continental,
American, and Filipino breakfasts are also
available. JOC
Benny’s is located at Rustan’s Makati
Supermarket. Breakfast is served from 7 am to 10 am.
WE all know that breakfast is the most important meal of the day. It breaks the previous night ’s fast and jumpstarts the body with nutrients needed to fuel it until lunchtime. If you skip breakfast, you end up overeating later in the day. Yes, it fills you up, but over time, this could result in extra weight.
The demands of a hectic lifestyle often
lead to us cutting out breakfast from the
day’s meals. Usually, a cup of coffee will
suffice. Instead, we compensate for the lost
morning meal with a filling mid-morning
snack or simply indulge in a heavy lunch.
It works, but nutritionists warn against it,
because you often end up making unhealthy
choices at lunch.
Harried office workers are nowadays spoiled
for choices when it comes to breakfast. A
number of fast-food chains offer breakfast
meals. But these on-the-go meals that you
can down in just a couple of minutes tend
to be the same old thing.
Those who have a little more time and want
a healthy and hearty treat in the morning
will find delightful choices on the breakfast
menu at Benny’s, the restaurant at Rustan’s
Makati Supermarket. From 7 am to 10 am,
it serves the usual breakfast meals, as well
as a selection that is worlds away from the
usual tapsilog combo.
If you are watching your weight, it offers
healthy choices that will have you smiling
with each bite.
Pancake lovers can munch on Whole Wheat
Pancakes. An order comes with three
pancakes, light syrup, and a pat of butter.
And since whole-wheat flour is used, you
are sure to get nutrients such as calcium,
iron, fiber, and minerals like selenium in
a jiffy. But the healthy qualities of whole-
wheat flour do not detract from the flavor
of the pancakes. They are still light and
fluffy, just like ordinary pancakes.
For those who must have eggs for breakfast
but are mindful of their cholesterol and fat
intake, the Egg White Omelet is for you.
Minced herbs and spices are added to the
egg whites to give them flavor. This dish
comes with slices of turkey ham, which is
the choice of many dieters. No, the omelet
does not taste like paper. The herbs give it
a unique flavor that you do not get from a
regular omelet, as well as little of the egg
taste from the yolks.
And for those who want something really
light, a fruit platter is also available.
For those who must have the real thing,
Benny’s also serves hearty breakfast meals
to delight morning persons. Its Huevos
Rancheros is a simplified version of this
Tex-Mex classic. Two fried eggs topped with
Eggs Benedict
21sansRival
SansRival VOL1 NO1.indd 21 3/3/11 9:10:08 PM
Break out
the bubbly for
breakfast
Bellini
6oz Prosecco
1 shot peach schnapps
D’Artagnan
½ shot Armagnac
½ shot Grand Marnier
1 shot orange juice
½ tsp sugar syrup
Champagne
Few things are more indulgent than a flute of champagne
or a mimosa with your breakfast of fresh warm pancakes
topped with strawberries. Does this sound special
already? Champagne or other sparkling wines have the
effervescence and slight acidity to bring out the best in
rich entrées like Eggs Benedict, as well as staples like ham,
sausages, and prosciutto.
Champagne breakfasts are popular among close friends
and family. It ’s a great way to start a very special day like
a birthday, an anniversary, or the day of a much-deserved
promotion. It may be part of any day or outing considered
particularly luxurious or indulgent. The accompanying
breakfast includes rich foods such as salmon, caviar,
chocolate, pastries, or other courses, which would not
ordinarily be eaten at breakfast.
The breakfast can be served as part of a treat to honor
a special person, such as mothers and fathers, or as a
celebration of an event or achievement. A champagne
breakfast was even fed to Red Marauder when the horse
won the Grand National. It may be a tradition at some
colleges for graduation, such as Wells College. People may
be feted at a champagne breakfast as part of winning a
competition.
Usually served at 10 am, a traditional champagne breakfast
would consist of an entrée like a low-fat yogurt with
fruits and crunchy granola and muesli sprinkled on top,
and a main course like crispy rashers of bacon with fried
tomatoes and eggs. Cap this off with a small selection of
hard and soft cheeses and dry biscuits. Don’t forget to
have regular tea and brewed coffee on hand.
Several bubbly options other than the standard
champagne-based cocktails can also be prepared. Here are
some of them.
Zonin Prosecco
750 ml (P639.00)
Dom Perignon
750 ml (P7,980.00)
28 March 2011
SansRival VOL1 NO1.indd 28 3/3/11 9:11:09 PM
Kir Royale
½ shot Creme
de Cassis
Champagne
Mimosa
1 shot Orange Juice
3 oz. Champagne
Tokyo Spring
1 shot Midori
½ shot lime juice
Champagne
Veuve Chabert
Brut Rose
750 ml (P2,395.00)
Veuve Clicquot
Ponsardin Brut
750 ml (P3,150.00)
Perrier Jouet
Brut
750 ml (P3,200.00)
29sansRival
SansRival VOL1 NO1.indd 29 3/3/11 9:11:20 PM
Maiden issue, March 2011 Breakfast of Champions

26
Brie de Meaux
P189.75 per 100g
Malagos Davao Blue
P229.90 per 100g
Port Salut P212.17 per 100g
French Roquefort
227.17 per 100g
Gruyere block
P121.62 per 100g
Manchego Curado
P237.10 per 100g
Top cheese
The list of indulgent food is not
complete without these flavorful
artisanal appetizers
Rustans is committed to bringing quality, handmade,
artisanal cheese products to the Philippines by forging links
directly with producers from Italy, France, and Spain, as well as
local producers like the Malagos cheese makers from Davao.
One way of presenting and appreciating cheese is to make a Cheese
Platter. There are no hard and fast rules, but the guiding principles in
choosing for your platter are color, contrast, and of course, availability.
Serve with dried fruits like apricots and fresh grapes, nuts like almonds
and walnuts, and quality breads like baguettes or crackers.
Brie de Meaux was declared Le Roi des Fromages (The King of Cheese) in
1814 in the Congress of Vienna. Brie is a popular soft cheese made from
pasteurized cow’s milk. It delivers a combination of tastes, from hazelnut to fruit.
It is normally served as a dessert with cranberry compote or as a savory croissant
sandwich filling with ham. It can also be eaten alone, with champagne or red
burgundy.
Malagos Davao Blue Goat Cheese is a rich and creamy young goat cheese mildly aged
with blue mold. Mixing blue mold into the curd gives it its color. As the cheese ages,
the flavor is enhanced. Most goat milk blues are pungent and earthier in taste and
smell than cow’s milk blues.
Gruyere Cheese is a Swiss cheese variety that is quite nutty, salty, and with a
pungent aroma; it is rubbery in texture, with a sharp and pronounced earthy flavor.
It is a sought-after cooking cheese used for sauces, fondue, and soufflés. It goes
well with grapes and tomatoes, washed down with Pinot Grigio.
Port Salut was originally invented by Trappist monks during the 19th century
at the Abbey of Notre Dame du Port du Salute. It is a mature, semi-soft
pasteurized cow’s milk with a distinctive orange crust and a mild flavor. It goes
very well with green grapes and Sauvignon Blanc.
French Roquefort is a ripe cheese that is crumbly, tangy, and slightly moist,
with a characteristic fermented odor and flavor. The green veins provide a
sharp tang. Flavors range from mild, to sweet, smoky, and salty. Crumbled
Roquefort can be sprinkled in lieu of salt and pepper over a salad of lettuce
and arugula.
The Manchego Curado is a mature and an unpasteurized ewe’s milk that
comes from Cuenca in La Mancha. This cheese is known for its subtle
and complex flavor. Semi-hard, bordering on being soft, it has a clean,
buttery, and intense flavor. It ’s best taken with Red Tempranillo or
Rioja wines, with olives and pickled onions.
Ambrosia
for all
The love for chocolate
is something everyone
shares, from the
connoisseur with a
discerning sweet tooth to
the scholarly foodie with a
sense of history
Our favorite naturalist and botanist Carl Linnaeus, in his
groundbreaking manuscript Systema Naturae, called it
cacao Theobroma, while a certain Bachot in a medical
thesis published in 1685 wrote that cocoa, and not
ambrosia, must have been the food of gods.
The cacao plant is native to South America, both on the
islands and on the continent. Chocolate was brought into
Spain in the 17th century, and instantly gained popularity
because of its extremely strong flavor. Chocolate moved to
the mountainous frontiers with Louis XIII’s wife, Anne of
Austria.
Chocolate candy, as we indulge in it today, began its long
and colorful history in 1770, when the first industrial
chocolate manufacturing company was set up, Chocolats
et Thes Pelletier & Compagnie. Van Houten later opened
in Amsterdam in 1815. Cailler, another company, was set
up in Vevey, Switzerland in 1819. Suchard followed and
opened in Neuchatel. The first true chocolate factories,
however, were those of Menier in the Paris region, first
opened in 1824.
Chocolate candy bars are a mixture of cocoa paste, cocoa
butter, and sugar with other delicious optional additions
such as milk, dried fruits, nuts, coffee, and liqueurs. It can
be molded or filled with confectionery products such as
fondant, caramel, praline, and marzipan.
18 19March 2011 sansRival18 19March 2011 sansRival
The global pantry
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
9
10
8
12 13March 2011 sansRival
11
15
20 21 22
24
23
16
18
17 19
13 1412
A serious foodie’s pantry should
be brimming with epicurean
essentials that, in a flash, one
could use to whip up something
delicious and totally enchanting.
Whether it be a midnight craving for
a wood-smoked brisling sardines
on a cracker eaten in solitude; or
perhaps, pomodoro-basilico sauce
poured over a big bowl of pasta.
Having your son’s basketball team
over on short notice? A well-chosen,
well-stocked pantry can solve your
culinary woes, and even extend your
menu cycle, so much so that people
might even suspect you’re running a
Michelin-starred restaurant!
Start with the basics, and
eventually build up on flavors and
regional groupings. Follow your
taste buds; start with Asian, like
light soy sauce, panko, and mirin.
Eventually, try products from Italy
and the Mediterranean, and sooner
or later, you could be experimenting
with cross-flavors like pasta with
mushroom and hoisin sauce, fuelled
with harrisa, the Tunisian chili paste
that comes in a tube. Not a bad idea
at all.
1. Kikkoman Panko Bread Crumbs
2. Bottarga Di Tonno
3. Colavita spaghetti
4. Full Circle organic extra virgin oil
5. Daimir Bacalao a la Viscaina
6. Sriracha chili sauce
7. La Corvine anchovy fillets
8. Datu Puti light soy sauce
9. Borges vinegre de jerez
10. Crown Prince one layer brisling
sardines
11. Pan Salt
12. Harissa le phare du cap bon de
Tunisie
13. H&S dried mushroom
14. Lee Kum Kee hoisin sauce
15. Black sesame oil
16. Mitsukan hon mirin
17. Muscovdo organic raw sugar
18. Carmencita sea salt with herbs
19. Kewpie mayonnaise
20. Full Circle organic minestrone
21. Full Circle organic cream of mush-
room
22. Pamora farm chicken liver pate
23. Molinera curshed tomatoes
24.Mezzetta horse radish
12 13March 2011 sansRival
Beer and nuts used to be a favorite staple, when it was just television
and the couch, but not any more. Now, the active couch potato leads a
more diverse life than a generation ago: there’s television, the Internet,
video, iPads, iPods, smart phones—it’s a technology-based society.
The active couch potato
Tostitos tortilla chips Natural
Blue Corn, Restaurant Style,
and Hint of Lime
Tostitos Creamy spinach dip
Stella Artois, Pxxxx San Miguel, Pxxxx Corona Extra, Pxxxx Heineken, Pxxxx
24
25March 2011 sansRival
With such a selection of passive and interactive activity in front of your couch, the cravings for munchies have also gone beyond the more plebeian and predictable. The active couch potato still gets a great deal of satisfaction from watching television, but keeps physically fit—and appreciates the luxury of downtime with only the best snacks.
Tostitos Chunky salsa dip Oishi Gourmet Picks and Salt and Vinegar potato chipsOishi Baconette strips
Martinelli’s, Pxxxx S. Pellerino, Pxxxx Rootbeer, Pxxxx
24 25March 2011 sansRival

27
Italian Food Festival
5.Refine and redefine your work-flow.

Volume 1 • No. 3 • June - July 2011
The world’s most popular food
The pleasure of taste

Volume 1 • No. 3 • June - July 2011
The world’s most popular food
The pleasure of taste
sansRival

281.7/G N ? C1T I ? 7.;g7)756 FNNN
From India to your kitchenCOMPARED to that of our other South East Asian neighbors
like Singapore, Malaysia, and Indonesia, the Filipino palate
still needs to be educated when it comes to Indian cuisine.
I?ve interviewed friends, and the verdict is 50-50?it ?s
either they hate it or they love it. There is no middle
ground, and no such thing as indifference.
I personally adore Indian food. The strong aroma and
the layers of flavors definitely send me into orbit. The very
first Indian restaurant I went to in Manila was Kashmir
on Padre Faura. Kashmir was my soft introduction to
the various nuances of Indian cuisine via their curries,
chutneys, and chapatis. Joseph Cortes had a conversation
with Indra Mirchandani about this 36-year-old, Manila
culinary institution.
My predilection for curry opened my taste buds to the
different curries not just of India, but of Penang, Malacca,
Colombo, Bangkok, Singapore, Java, and Kuala Lumpur,
which offer a spectrum of flavors and experiences.
My other favorite Indian restaurant, started as a hole
in the wall along Buendia Avenue; today, the New Bombay
Cuisine (formerly Canteen) has grown into a popular haunt
for office workers and Pinoy foodies alike. Tracey Pasca
talked to Rainy Khanchandani about how Bombay Cuisine
promotes Indian food to the local market.
In sansRival Recommends, Rustan?s Supermarket
ensures that the primary ingredients for Indian cuisine, like
hard-to-find spices, are made available for you. Plus, we
offer more than 20 popular Indian recipes, from chicken
tikka masala to rogan josh, to make at home.
Our resident food stylist Sandee Masigan painstakingly
did our cover design for this issue; the design is based on
the Rangoli pattern used during the Diwali Festival. Rangoli
design is created on doorsteps to welcome everybody.
Although Rangoli usually features a specific color pattern
for each region, we decided to use colored rice, grains,
pulses, and seed spices to come up with our version.
The Diwali Festival or ?Festival of Lights? is one of
the biggest festivals of the Hindus, celebrated with great
enthusiasm and happiness. On this auspicious day, people
light oil lamps and candles all around their house. And
with this, like the lights of Diwali, we hope sansRival
will enlighten us, and help us to better understand and
appreciate the nuances and finer points of Indian cuisine.
Have a great Indian Food Festival!
Editor-in-Chief Ige Ramos
Managing Editor Glenna Aquino
Associate Editor Roda Masinag
Art Director Joan Soro
Photography Stanley Ong
Food Stylist Sandee Masigan
Contributing Editors Joseph Cortes
Alya Honasan
Tracey Paska
Proofreader Bernie C. Lizardo
Management LDV and Associates
Gastronomy Consultant Beth Romualdez
Rustan Supercenters, Inc.
Ambassador Bienvenido R. Tantoco, Sr.
C??????? E???????U RSCI
Bienvenido R. Tantoco, Jr.
C???????
President & CEO Donnie V. Tantoco
Chief Operating Officer Patrick Simon
VP Marketing Division Frances J. Yu
AVP Marketing Division Aggie G. Artadi
Ad & Promo Manager Tet F. Bachmann
Ad & Promo Head Pinky Lim
Ad & Promo Coordinator Vangie S. Isla
Published every 15th of the month
by Rustan Supercenters, Inc.
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??? ^evX Gil W??a? ?eXU Dalati i??
Telefax: 899-1915
Website: www.rustansfresh.com
E-mail: [email protected]
Follow us on Twi?er at h??Wlltwi?erXcoml
rustansfresh and like us on Faceook at h??WllwwwX
(ace}}lXc}mlr?s?avs(resZ
Rustan?s sansRival magalogue is distributed for
free to Fresh Shopping Rewards and Star Sapphire
card members.
Copyright ?2011 Rustan Supercenters, Inc. All rights
reser?eX Eei?Zer ?Zis ??licati}v v}r av? ?ar? }( i? ma?
e re?roducedU stored in a retrieval s?stem or transmi?ed
in any form or by any means?electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording or otherwise ? without the prior
permission of sansRival magalogue.
All information is correct at the time of ?rintingX
Prices are suject to change without ?rior noticeX
Rustan?s Supermarket
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The pleasure of taste
Spices and lights
W1.T E v O1T I v 7.;gB7)756 FNEE
F 37.;gB7)756 FNEE sansRival
mainCourse | The real deal 4
dZe <asZuir store at Z?stan[s ^??eruarket o+ers eliio?s fro?en inners, or ?o? an also tr? /nian foo at <asZuir, tZe ?ioneer /nian resta?rant in tZe o?ntr?
sansRival recommends
n ssential Indian ingredients 6
n intro??on into tZe riZ an olorf?l s?ies an ingreients of /nian ?isine
mainCourse
| flavorful tour of India 10
drae? Waska sits o?n to a ueal ?itZ Zain? <ZanZauani of Ee? oua? an
iso?ers Zo? tZe? are uaking /nian Ga?ors uore en?ing to tZe &ili?ino ?alate
sansRival recipes
| Starters 14
Eaan rea, Walak Waneer, segetale Wakoras, Eargesi <oLa
| Salad and Condiments 16
Mango Chutne?, &resZ Dango an Zili ZelisZ,
??uer an zogZ?rt Zaita, &resZ Dint an Zili ^aual
Zoiak ~^?i? fr?it an ?egetale sala
| Vegetable, Rice and Pulses 18
Mi?ed DhalU Cardamomrs?iced Pilaf with PistachiosU
segetale ?rr? an segetale ir?ani
| Chicken 20
Chicken Tikka MasalaU Murg Makhani (Bu?er Chicken)U
Korma Curr?
| Beef 22
Madras Beef ?rr?, ya?? ~'oan ?rr?, Zogan :osZ
| Seafood 24
Bengal Prawn MasalaU Goa Fish Curr?
sansRival recommends
| Yoh-Frozen Yoghurt 26
The ho?est cold fro?en delight is also a low calorie treatJ
Dake ?o?r o?n /nian >assi ?ogZ?rtrase rink
grapeVine
n The spirit of India 28
zo? on[t Za?e to ?isit to /nia to tr? soue of tZe to? /nian eer, ?Zisk? an gin,
ea?se Z?stan[s ^??eruarket Zas alrea? ro?gZt tZeu for ?o?
topShelf
29
Z?stan[s ^??eruarket reouuens ??alit? rans for o?r iserning ?stouers
Cover: Indian Rangoli pattern
used on doorsteps of homes to
welcome family and friends during
the iwali, the festival of lights
from the editor?s table
D*G 2.G#574G 1( 6#56G
sansRival
Essential Indian ingredients
6 7sansRival7sansRivalJuly-August 2011
Mundal
White Sesame Seeds (Til Safid)
Almonds (Badam)
Whole Fenugreek (Methi seeds)
Mustard Seeds (Aur)
Pistachio with shells (Dodi)
White Dal (Urad)
Tuldal
Black Sesame Seeds (Til Kala)
Cashew (Kaju)
Black Dal (Urad) Cheradal
Cardamom (Choti Elaischi)
Cloves (Laung)
Ground Coriander (Dana)
Cumin (Jeera Seeds)
Onion Seeds (Kalonji)
Ground Chili (Mirch Lal)
Carom Seeds (Ajwain)
Fennel Seeds (Saunf)
Black Salt (Namak Kala)
Garam Masala Powder
Ground Cinnamon (Dalchini Powder) Star Anise
Spices are like musical notes that create melodies.
Depending on the combination of different notes, these
melodies, when combined, will translate into texture or
consistency, taste , color, and flavor.
June-July 2011 9sansRival8 July-August 2011 9sansRival8
Coconut
Raisins (Kismis)
Cashew (Kaju)
Almonds (Badam)
Star Anise
Tuldal
Pure gee
Ginger
Tamarind
Basmati rice
Turmeric
Red and green chili peppers
Garlic
Shallots
Punjabi Masala Special Papad
Moong Papad
Coriander
Mint
Basil
Essential Indian
ingredients
The balance of
fresh ingredients
combined with the
relative proportion
of spices is the
alchemy that gives
Indian cuisine its
complex taste and
flavor.
Naan Bread
Originally from Persia, naan or “bread-food” is a generic
term for various flatbreads known in the Middle East
and India. It is leavened flatbread, traditionally baked
by slapping the dough on the side of a tandoor, a hot
dome-shaped clay oven. The dough’s weight would
normally cause it to fall into a teardrop shape, which is the
recognizable form of naan bread; however, with changes
in the baking process, such that there are now different
varieties that are readily produced. As most kitchens don’t
have a stone plate to cook on, the baking trays need to be
very hot to help cook the naan properly.
Ingredients
2 cups plain flour
3/4 cup, warm water
2 tbsp oil
2 ½ tbsp Greek or natural yoghurt
1 tsp salt
1 tsp yeast
1 tsp sugar
A pinch of baking powder
1 tsp Nigella (kalunji) seeds (optional)
Procedure
Mix yeast with water in a bowl and set aside.
Sift flour and add salt, sugar, baking powder, and
Nigella seeds, and mix together. Add yoghurt and
mix together; add water with yeast and mix. Form
the dough by kneading on a floured surface. Place
dough back in bowl and proof in a warm place,
covered with a cloth, for four hours or until dough
rises well. Preheat oven to 230-240°C. Place two
flat, non-stick baking trays in oven to heat as
well. Divide dough into 6 equal parts and roll into
rectangles about 6 mm thick. Before placing the
dough in the oven, wet fingertips with water and
pat very lightly on the dough. Bake until golden
spots appear and the dough is cooked. Spread
some garlic butter on to the warm bread or serve
plain.
Palak Paneer
Paneer is a young, fresh Indian cottage cheese.
It is similar to fresh mozzarella, except it has no
added salt and doesn’t melt easily. It is prepared
by curding, basically adding an acidic substance
like lemon to the milk. Paneer is so versatile that it
can be used as a main ingredient in starters, main
courses, and desserts. In India, paneer is considered
a celebratory food; it is served during special
occasions, as well as a special treat for the family,
from time to time.
Ingredients
2 large bunches of spinach
200 g cottage cheese (paneer)
2-3 pcs green chilies
8-10 cloves garlic
3 tbsp oil
½ tsp cumin seeds
Salt to taste
1 tbsp lemon juice
4 tbsp fresh cream
Procedure
Remove stems, and wash spinach
thoroughly in running water. Blanche
in salted boiling water for two minutes.
Refresh in chilled water. Squeeze out excess
water. Remove stems, wash, and roughly
chop green chilies. Grind spinach into a fine
paste along with green chilies. Dice paneer
into one inch-by-one inch pieces. Peel, wash,
and chop garlic. Heat oil in a pan. Add cumin
seeds. When they begin to change color, add
chopped garlic and sauté for half a minute.
Add the spinach purée and stir. Check
seasoning. Add water if required. When the
gravy comes to a boil, add the paneer and
mix well. Stir in lemon juice. Finally, add
fresh cream. Serve hot.
Vegetable Pakoras
Pakoras are usually served as snacks or appetizers. In the UK, pakoras are
popular fast-food snacks as they are available in most Indian take-away
places. It is also a tastier alternative to French fries. Similar to vegetable
tempura, pakoras can be made with different vegetables, which are dipped
in a spicy besan (gram flour) batter and deep-fried. Pakoras are delicious
when paired with a cup of hot, spicy Indian chai.
Ingredients
3/4 cup chickpea (besan or gram) flour
¼ cup self-raising flour
2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp, garam masala
½ tsp chili powder
¼ tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp salt
2 cloves garlic, crushed
3/4 cup water, approximately
1 cup, broccoli florets
1 cup, cauliflower florets
1 small eggplant, sliced thinly
2 medium zucchini, sliced thinly
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
Procedure
Sift flours, spices, and salt into medium bowl. Add garlic
and whisk in enough water to make a thick batter. Cover
and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Boil or steam broccoli and
cauliflower separately, until just tender. Rinse under cold water,
pat dry with absorbent papers. Wash the eggplant and zucchini,
pat dry with kitchen towels or clean cloth. Heat oil in large
saucepan. Dip vegetables pieces, one at a time, into the batter
and drain away the excess. Deep-fry vegetables, in batches, in
hot oil, until lightly browned and crisp. Drain on absorbent
paper towels. Serve with Yogurt Mint Dipping Sauce.
Yoghurt Mint Dipping Sauce
Ingredients
2 tbsp bottled mint jelly
¼ cup yoghurt
1 red chili, chopped finely
Procedure
Combine ingredients in small bowl; cover, refrigerate for at
least one hour.
.
Nargesi Kofta
The word kofta is derived from the Persian
kūfta, which means to grind, or referring to
a meatball. In India, koftas come in different
varieties. The simplest form is a ball of
minced meat usually made with beef or
lamb, or the vegetarian variety like shahi
aloo kofta, or rich potato balls in gravy. This
particular recipe is hard-boiled egg encased
in spiced, minced meat, nargesi, which
means egg wrapped in kofta. The British
dish “Scotch eggs” was apparently inspired
by nargesi kofta.
Ingredients
12 pcs quail eggs, hard-boiled and
shelled
450 g beef, double minced
1 tbsp curry powder
1 tsp salt
3 tbsp chopped fresh coriander
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1 egg, beaten
1 tbsp ground cumin
2 tbsp chickpea flour
Oil for frying
Procedure
Blend together the beef with
remaining ingredients. Divide the
mixture into 12 equal portions. Place
a quail egg in the center of each
portion and shape mixture around
the egg. Shallow or deep-fry koftas
in vegetable oil for 3-4 minutes, until
they are rich brown in color. Drain
on kitchen towels. Serve as a cocktail
snack with coriander and mint
chutney, or with a spicy tomato sauce.
July-August 2011 15sansRival14
Cardamom-Spiced Pilaf with Pistachios
Pilaf is a dish in which rice is cooked in a
seasoned stock or broth. In some cases, the
rice gets its brown color by being stirred with
bits of burned onions, as well as a mix of spices.
The English term pilaf is borrowed directly
from Turkish, which in turn comes from Hindi
and Sanskrit. This rice preparation is known
throughout the Middle East, Central Asia, and
the entire Indian subcontinent.
Ingredients
2 tbsp ghee
2 tsp cardamom seeds
1 medium brown onion (150g), chopped
finely
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 tsp grated fresh ginger
2 curry leaves, torn
1 red chili, finely chopped
2 cups basmati rice, washed and drained
4 cups chicken stock
½ cup shelled pistachios
2 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
Procedure
Heat ghee in medium saucepan, cook
seeds and stir until they begin to pop.
Add onion, cook and stir until onion is
soft. Add garlic, ginger, curry leaves, and
chili, stirring until fragrant. Add rice
and stir for one minute. Add stock, bring
to a boil; reduce heat, simmer, covered
tightly, for about 20 minutes or until rice
is just tender and all the liquid has been
absorbed. Remove from heat, fluff rice
with a fork, stir in pistachios and mint;
let stand, covered, for five minutes.
Vegetable Biryani
Biryani is a set of rice-based foods made with spices,
basmati rice, and meat, fish, eggs, or vegetables. Originally,
the unwashed rice is fried in ghee, giving it a nutty flavor.
It is then boiled in water with spices until half cooked. The
traditional ingredients added to the rice are cauliflower,
carrots, peas, sweet bell peppers, and green beans. Biryani is
derived from the Persian word “birian,” which means fried or
roasted. Local variations of this dish are not only popular in
South Asia, but also in the Middle East.
Vegetable Curry
The secret to a successful curry of any kind is the
use of onion as a thickening agent. The proportion
of onion to the main ingredient of the curry is
important, because this will determine the sweet
element in the taste as well as the thickness of the
g r a v y.
Ingredients
for the Curry Paste
½ cup freshly grated coconut
4 fresh hot green chilies
2 tbsp white poppy seeds
1 ¼ tsp salt
3 tbsp oil for frying
3 medium-sized red onions
½ medium-sized eggplant, sliced
2 small carrots, peeled and cut in small pieces
1 cup peas
1 cup French beans, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 medium head cauliflower, broken into florets
1 medium-sized potato, peeled and cubed
3 medium-sized tomatoes, roughly chopped
1 tbsp natural plain yoghurt
1 tsp garam masala
2 tbsp chopped fresh green coriander
Procedure
Combine the coconut, chilies, poppy seeds, and
salt in the container of an electric blender. Add
half-cup of water and grind to a fine paste. Set
aside. In a little vegetable oil, fry the onions
gently for 10 minutes in a large pan, then add
the remaining vegetables and stir together.
Add the curry paste and simmer gently for
around 15-20 minutes, taking care not to
overcook the vegetables. If the sauce becomes
too thick, add a little water to give the desired
consistency. Now add the tomatoes, the
yoghurt, and the garam masala. Stir gently to
mix well. Bring to a boil and simmer gently for
another five minutes. Turn into a serving dish
and garnish the vegetable curry with fresh
coriander.
Procedure
Wash the basmati rice well before cooking. In a stock pan,
place the rice with 3 3/4 cups water, with a little salt and
2 tablespoons of dried fruits and bring to a boil. Once
it reaches the boiling point, turn down the heat in the
stove’s minimum setting until all the liquid in the rice is
absorbed. Set aside the cooked rice. Cut all the vegetables
into small thin pieces and fry each one separately in oil,
including the green peas. Put 1 tbsp oil in a pan and add
mustard seeds, green chili, cinnamon, caraway seeds
powder, cloves, and black pepper powder, and stir for
about half a minute. Then add onions and sauté for a
minute or until they are translucent. Add salt and red
chili powder and stir. Add finely chopped tomatoes and
fry until properly cooked. Add yoghurt and stir. Cook
for another 10 seconds and add all the fried vegetables.
Combine with the cooked rice and mix well but very
gently so that the rice grain doesn’t break. Cook for about
three minutes more. Serve on a serving dish and garnish
with dry fruits and green coriander leaves. Serve hot with
raita and chutney.
Ingredients
2 cups basmati rice
3 tbsp dry fruits (cashew
nuts, sultanas and
raisins)
1 cup mixed vegetables
(cauliflower, potato,
carrot, French beans)
150 g green peas
3 onions, finely sliced
2 green chilies, finely
sliced
1 tsp red chili powder
2 tsp cinnamon
2 tsp caraway seeds
4 cloves
½ tsp black pepper
powder
4 tomatoes
½ cup yoghurt or paneer
curd
4 tbsp vegetable oil
½ tsp mustard seeds
coriander leaves
Salt to taste
Mixed Dhal
An important part of Indian cuisine, dhal is a preparation
of dried lentils, peas, or beans, which have been stripped
of their outer hulls and split. It also refers to the thick stew
prepared from these. Dhal is regularly eaten with naan,
roti, a wheat-based flatbread, rice, and vegetables. It is
recommended for vegetarians, as dhal is a ready source of
protein for a balanced diet containing no meat.
Ingredients
½ cup yellow split peas
½ cup red lentils
½ cup split mung beans
2 tbsp ghee
3 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp black onion seeds
2 medium brown onions, chopped finely
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tbsp grated fresh ginger
1 tbsp ground cumin
3 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp chili powder
2 x 400 g cans tomatoes
2 ½ cups vegetable stock
½ tsp cracked black pepper
½ cupream
2 tbsp finely chopped fresh coriander leaves
Procedure
Rinse peas, lentils, and beans separately in cold
water then drain. Place yellow split peas in small
bowl, cover with water, stand for 30 minutes and
drain. Heat ghee in large heavy-base saucepan,
cook seeds and stir until they start to pop. Add
onions garlic, and ginger, cook and stir until
onions are browned lightly. Add ground spices,
cook and stir for one minute. Add split peas,
lentils, beans, crushed tomatoes (do not drain),
and stock. Simmer, covered, for about 30 minutes
or until red lentils are tender. Just before serving,
add remaining ingredients, then stir over low heat
until just heated through.
July-August 2011 19sansRival18
Chicken Tikka Masala
Tikka is the Hindi word for small bits or pieces. The authentic
chicken tikka masala is prepared with pieces of chicken
marinated in yoghurt and spices, and grilled over a charcoal
fire to give it a lovely smokey flavor. The chicken tikka masala
we know today is a curry dish in which roasted chicken chunks
(tikka) are served in a rich orange, creamy, lightly spiced, tomato-
based sauce. The origins of chicken tikka masala are disputed.
The oldest claim is that it was created for the Mughal Empire in
pre-British India. Another story has it that chicken tikka masala
was actually created in the United Kingdom in the 1960s when
a diner in a restaurant demanded some spicy gravy on the dry
chicken dish served to him. The chef improvised by adding a
tin of Campbell’s tomato soup, yoghurt, and some spices to
the dry chicken dish. The diner enjoyed it, and the first chicken
tikka masala with gravy was born. Thus did it become England’s
unofficial national dish.
Ingredients
600g boneless, skinless chicken cut in 1-inch cubes
Marinade
1 cup plain yoghurt
2 tbsp lemon juice
2 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp ground red pepper
2 tsp black pepper
1 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp salt
1 piece minced ginger
6 bamboo skewers
Korma Curry
The Moghul Empire was responsible for
establishing royal court cuisine in India.
Centuries later, court cuisine trickled
down to the masses of northern India,
and korma curry became the by-product
of this fusion. Not as intimidating and hot
as the curries from the south, korma curry
has a sweet flavor, with a subtle hint of
spices, because it is prepared with cream,
yoghurt, fruit, and nuts. This soft, easy-
eating curry has a delicate tang that can be
a good introduction to Indian cuisine for
the uninitiated.
Ingredients
Vegetable oil
1 large onion
3 tbsp tomato paste
400g chicken breast
1 tbsp grated ginger
2 fresh bay leaves
½ tsp ground turmeric
½ tsp ground coriander
½ ground chili (or more, depending
on how hot you want this to be)
3 pieces cardamom seed pods
½ tsp ground fennel
2 cinnamon sticks
1 tbsp Madras curry paste*
2 tbsp korma curry paste**
250 ml coconut milk
Basmati rice, butter, salt, a few
leaves of fresh coriander
Procedure
Chop the onions and garlic and press
the cardamom pods. Cut the chicken
into small cubes, and marinate in a
little vegetable oil and a tablespoon
of Madras curry paste. Heat the
pan and sauté the onions. Add the
tomato paste, korma curry paste, and
chopped garlic. When the pastes are
well blended, add the grated ginger
together with the rest of the spices,
Sauce
1 tbsp unsalted butter
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 green pepper, minced
2 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp chili powder
1 tsp garam masala
½ tsp salt
1 can tomato sauce
1 cup yoghurt
¼ cup chopped
fresh coriander
except the coriander. Stir and
move onions and spices to the
side of the pan. Add a little
butter and sauté chicken for a
minute. Then add coconut milk
and about half as much water
as the milk. Stir and let simmer
until done. Touch and taste
occasionally; the longer you let
the spices simmer, the richer
the taste. Cook the rice to your
liking (a little hint: when the
water has reached the level
of the rice while cooking,
add a tablespoon of butter,
then cover again). Serve and
decorate with fresh coriander.
Butter Chicken
(Murg Makhani)
Butter chicken is among the best-known Indian foods all over
the world. Its gravy can be made as hot or mild as you like, so
it suits most palates. Also commonly known as murg makhani,
butter chicken tastes great with kaali dhal (black lentils), naan,
and a green salad. It is best to cook this dish a day before it is
served.
Ingredients
½ cup, natural yoghurt
1 tbsp lemon juice
1 tsp turmeric
2 tsp garam masala
1 tsp chili powder
1 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp grated fresh ginger
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 kg chicken breast fillets, chopped
125 g cashews, roasted
60 g unsalted butter
1 tbsp sunflower oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 tsp ground cardamom
1 cinnamon stick
1 Indian bay leaf
2 tsp sweet paprika
425 g can tomato purée (not tomato paste)
½ cup chicken stock
1 cup thickened cream
Steamed basmati rice, to serve
Procedure
Combine yoghurt, lemon juice, turmeric, garam
masala, chili, cumin, ginger, and garlic in a bowl. Add
chicken and stir well. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
Reserve half the cashews and place remaining
cashews in a food processor. Process until finely
ground. Heat the butter and oil in a pan over medium
heat. Add the onion, cardamom, cinnamon, and
bay leaf and cook for two minutes, until the onion
starts to soften. Reduce heat to low, add chicken and
marinade, paprika, tomato puree, cashew powder,
and stock. Simmer for 15 minutes. Stir in cream and
cook for a further 10 minutes. Garnish with cashews
and chopped coriander and serve with rice.
Procedure
Soak bamboo skewers in water, set aside. To make
the sauce, melt butter on medium heat, add garlic and
green pepper, and cook for one minute. Stir in coriander,
cumin, paprika, garam masala, and salt. Stir in tomato
sauce or can of diced tomatoes, and simmer for 15 minutes;
stir in yoghurt and simmer to thicken for another five
minutes. Thread the pieces of chicken on the skewers and
marinate in the refrigerator for an hour or so, and discard
marinade. Grill chicken, turning occasionally, to cook
through for about eight minutes. Remove chicken from
skewers; add to the sauce and simmer for five minutes.
Garnish with coriander and serve with basmati rice, naan,
or pita bread.
July-August 2011 21sansRival20
Madras Curry Paste
Ingredients
2 ½ tbsp coriander seeds,
dry-roasted and ground
1 tbsp cumin seeds, dry
roasted and ground
1 tsp brown mustard seeds
½ tsp cracked black
peppercorns
1 tsp chili powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 crushed garlic cloves
2 teaspoons grated fresh
ginger
3-4 tbsp white vinegar
Procedure
Put all ingredients except
vinegar into small bowl and
mix well. Add the vinegar and
mix into a smooth paste. This
mixture will keep for up to one
month in an airtight container
in the refrigerator.
Korma Curry Paste
Ingredients
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
1 tsp coriander seeds
2 garlic cloves, peeled and
sliced
2-inch piece ginger, peeled and
finely grated
½ tsp chili powder
1 tsp garam masala
½ tsp salt
2 tbsp peanut oil
1 tbsp tomato paste
2 green chilies, seeded and
finely sliced
3 tbsp desiccated coconut
2 tbsp ground almonds
1 small bunch fresh coriander,
stalks and leaves chopped
Procedure
Dry-fry the cumin and
coriander seeds over medium
heat, until they start to change
color and release an aromatic
scent; remove from heat.
Place all the ingredients in
a food processor or mortar
and pestle and grind until the
desired paste is achieved.
Manila’s hottest new cold treat
YOGHURT’S popularity as a low-calorie
treat has made it the fastest growing
segment of the frozen desserts industry.
No longer is yoghurt just an item in the
chiller of supermarkets, along with butters
and cheeses; it ’s now enjoying it ’s own
place in the health food universe.
Yoh-Froz brings this low-fat, low-calorie
treat for everyone to enjoy and indulge
in without guilt. Yoghurt is basically
a custard-like food with a tart flavor,
prepared from milk curdled by bacteria,
especially Lactobacillus bulgaricus and
Streptococcus thermophilus, and often
sweetened or flavored with fruit. Frozen
yoghurt is a frozen dessert containing
yoghurt or other dairy products. It is
slightly more tart than ice cream, as well
as lower in fat (due to the use of milk
instead of cream).
Johanson Dy Cheng is the first
franchisee of Yoh-Froz and Glacier
Bay Diversified Ventures Inc., under
his company, Entrepnegosyo foods
marketing.
explains that their business supports
the customer all the way. “Every aspect
of Yoh-Froz, from product development
to our promotional activities, revolves
around our customers. Our flavors have
a do-it-yourself quality to them, with you
choosing how healthy you want to snack.
You can have it on top of a delicious
Belgian waffle, have a fully loaded Yoh-
gurt Parfait, or blend it with fruits in a
Yoh-gurt Froz Smoothie, plus choose from
a wide selection of toppings, from mochi
to pastries and fruits.”
Yoghurt aids in digestion, helps your
immunity, strengthens your bones, and
is good for your colon and intestines
because it is loaded with probiotics,
which clean your intestinal tracts. Do
yourself a favor and go for this healthy
alternative. You can even buy Yoh-Froz
plain yoghurt in one pint or half gallon
sizes to take home to make exciting
yoghurt based drinks like Indian lassi.
Yoh-Froz is located at the Lower Ground
Level, Rustan’s Fresh Supermarket,
Shangri-La Plaza, Mandaluyong City.
Lassi
Lassi is a traditional Punjabi
yoghurt-based drink made by
blending yoghurt with water and
Indian spices. Traditional lassi is a
savory drink; it is usually salted and
sometimes flavored with roasted
ground cumin. Sweet lassi , on the
other hand, is flavored with sugar,
honey and rosewater, or fruits like
lemon, mango, or strawberry. Lassi
is normally taken as a beverage for
lunch, and is also a refreshing in hot
weather. In some Indian villages, a
little turmeric powder mixed with
lassi is used as a folk remedy for
gastroenteritis.
Sweet Lassi
Ingredients
1 cup natural yoghurt
1 cup chopped fruit of your choice
1 cup milk
8 -10 pieces ice cubes
½ tsp ground cardamom seeds
(optional)
Few drops rose water (optional)
Procedure
Blend all the ingredients together
in a blender. Pour into small
glasses, sprinkle with cardamom on
top, and serve. The sky is the limit
when it comes to the use of fruit in
making fruit lassi. Be imaginative.
Salty Lassi
Ingredients
1 cup natural yoghurt
1 cup cold water
Salt to taste
8 -10 pieces ice cubes
Procedure
Add yoghurt, water, and salt
to the blender. Blend well till
frothy. Pour in glasses and top
with ice cubes.
Aromatic Lassi
You can experiment with flavors
by using various herbs and
combining spices when making
salty lassi. Ginger and mint lassi,
for example, can be a refreshing
alternative to the sweet variety.
Here’s a list of herbs or spices
that can be used with this lassi:
fresh ginger, mint leaves, cumin
seeds, rock salt, coriander, and
curry.
YOH Frozen Yogurt offers a delicious,
healthy alternative to snacking
July-August 2011 27sansRival26
Homemade strawberry
lassi with Yoh-Froz
Homemade mango
lassi with Yoh-Froz
caption please
Plain lassi
caption please
caption please
caption please
6. Redefine your template without sacrificing the magazine’s DNA.

29
7. Find the v of the magazine

30
8.Repurpose and push the limits

31
Volume 1 • No. 10 • February-March 2012
The pleasure of taste
sansRival
Chocolate:
A delicious history
From the ancient Mayas and European royalty to our very own ‘tablea’
makers, people have recognized the value of one of the world’s most
delightful foods
By Joseph Cortes
Is it food or confectionery? Is it a treat
or a sinful indulgence? Whatever your age,
sex, race, creed, color, or religion, you cannot
possibly not like chocolate. Whether it is milk,
dark, or white; plain, or with nuts, fruits, or
liqueur; candy, truffle, or dip, you must have
tasted it and smiled at having enjoyed its
luscious deliciousness.
Chocolate is as old as time—almost.
Chocosuisse, the Union of Swiss Chocolate
Manufacturers, dates the first mention
of chocolate to 600 AD, when the Mayas
established cacao plantations in the Yucatan
Peninsula. The date is arbitrary, because Swiss
chocolate makers agree that the Mayas used
cacao either as currency or drink several
centuries earlier.
The Mayas, and later, the Aztecs traded
using cocoa beans. They were then an
integral part of life in Central and South
America because they had multiple uses.
Cocoa beans were offered to the gods during
religious and sacred ceremonies. The white
pulp around the bean was used to ferment
alcoholic drinks, while the seed itself was
pounded and used to make a chocolate drink,
which warded of fatigue and was a cure for
diarrhea.
When Christopher Columbus reached
the Americas in 1502, he was introduced
to cocoa beans. He didn’t see the merit in
them because he was preoccupied with his
search for a route to the Spice Islands in Asia.
It wasn’t until Hernando Cortez conquered
Mexico for Spain in 1519 that cocoa became
a Western commodity; for almost a decade,
Spanish colonizers literally grew money on
trees.
In 1528, Cortez brought to Spain cocoa
beans and the instruments needed to prepare
chocolate. For almost a century, chocolate
became part of Spanish life. It became
fashionable among royalty to drink chocolate,
first among the French in 1615 when the
Spanish princess Anna of Austria married
Louis XIII. By 1657, the first chocolate shop
was opened in London by a Frenchman.
Chocolate then was enjoyed as a drink.
However, it was a man’s brew, very much the
way the Mayas and Aztecs enjoyed it. It was
diluted with water and seasoned with pepper.
By the 18th century, it was common to add
wine or beer to cocoa, as was diluting it with
milk, as we normally do today.
Chocolate in its solid form first made an
appearance in the 17th century when it was
first introduced in Spain. In 1674, chocolate
in the shape of rolls and cakes “in the Spanish
fashion” was being sold in London.
It wasn’t until the Swiss came into the
picture that chocolate as we now know it
became a reality. The first Swiss chocolate
factory was opened near Vevey in 1819.
Daniel Peter first introduced milk chocolate
into the market in 1875 after eight years
of experimentation. Some of the names
associated with chocolate would not be
familiar to today’s consumers, but if you read
the fine print on the label that came with
your chocolate, they would all ring familiar.
Some of the acknowledged Swiss chocolate
pioneers include François-Louis Cailler,
Philippe Suchard, Jacques Foulquer, Charles-
Amédée Kohler, Rudolphe Sprüngli-Ammann,
Aquilino Maestrani, Jacques Klaus, Daniel
Peter, Henri Nestlé, Johann Georg Munz,
Rudolphe Lindt, and Jean Tobler.
The Philippines, a Spanish colony, became
an important producer of cocoa beans during
the 19th century. It was said that the Spanish
sailor Pedro Bravo do los Camerinos retired
here in 1670 to start a cacao plantation,
which became one of the great cacao
plantations of the world.
It wasn’t surprising that a chocolate
enterprise existed throughout the
archipelago. With the Spanish instilling an
appreciation for chocolate, wealthy families
had cacao trees growing in their haciendas
around the country. Chocolate, in the form
of tableas, was the preferred means of
preserving the cacao harvest. During the
summer months, workers would be bent over
stone mills, grinding cacao into a paste, rolling
them into balls or pastilles that would go into
the preparation of chocolate drink.
Chocolate was considered a measure
of one’s status in society, as Jose Rizal
immortalized it in his novel Noli Me Tangere.
Esteemed guests were served chocolate eh
(espeso), thick and pure, prepared with milk,
while those of lower station were served
chocolate ah (aguado), a watered-down
version.
However, the niceties of society are
now lost on a generation that grew up with
powdered milk drinks and milk chocolates
in tetra paks. Mass production has made
chocolate in whatever shape or form a social
leveler: a commodity that may be enjoyed by
almost anyone.
In the Philippines, there are some
chocolate makers that adhere to the old
customs of chocolate making. They continue
to fashion tableas as they were made in
the 19th century to bring back a touch of
tradition into Filipino kitchens.
One of the more popular chocolate brands
in the market is Antonio Pueo, which has
the reputation of producing high-quality
chocolate made from the finest grade of
cacao. Jose Maria Pueo, who named it
after his father and uncle, founded the
firm in 1939. The brand gained fame after
the Second World War as a purveyor of
old-fashioned tablea. Today, Antonio Pueo
produces tablea made from 100 percent
organically grown cocoa beans sourced
from Davao. It produces tablea for drinking,
cooking, and baking, instant chocolate drink
powders, and a variety of cake, cookie, and
champorado mixes.
Today, chocolate is not merely a sweet but
also a means to wellness. The antioxidants in
dark chocolate are said to be good for one’s
health, while cocoa butter is an important
component of lotions, moisturizers, and body
butters.
It is also an important component of
almost every important occasion in life. What
celebration is complete without cake or
ice cream on the table? What holiday does
not involve gifting chocolate to loved ones?
Almost any day is a good day to delight in
chocolate. You need no excuse to grab a bar
or a drink to enjoy it. sR
4 February-March 2012 5sansRival
By Tracey Paska
Nothing warms the heart more than some chocolate on Valentine’s
Day, but research shows that it can also keep the rest of the body
healthy for the other 364 days
Chocolate: The new superfood
mainCourse
AS IF WE needed more reason to eat
chocolate, a study published late last year
in the British Medical Journal found that
regular consumption may reduce the risks
of heart disease, diabetes, and stroke by
approximately 30 percent. It ’s just the latest
in a long line of scientific research that
suggests chocolate could be the ultimate
health food.
The secret is in the seeds of the cocoa
tree (Theobroma cacao), from which all kinds
of chocolate goodies are produced. These
beans are chock-full of flavanols, natural
chemical compounds that act as antioxidants
to help prevent damage to the body ’s cells
and protect against cardiovascular diseases.
Other foods, such as red wine and green tea,
are also high in flavanols, but chocolate may
beat them all. A 2011 study found that cocoa
has significantly higher levels of antioxidant
activity than even such “super fruits” as açai
berry, pomegranate, and cranberry.
Even chocolate’s natural fat content
is the healthy kind: one-third of it is oleic
acid, a heart-healthy monounsaturated fat,
while another third is stearic acid, which is
converted in the liver into more oleic acid.
The list of cocoa’s potential health
benefits is a chocoholic’s dream:
HEALTHY HEART. The BMJ study points
to a link between eating chocolates and
preventing heart disease. Cocoa flavanols
have been shown to reduce the clumping
of blood platelets that can lead to heart
attacks.
STROKE PREVENTION. Flavanols also
lower blood pressure and improve overall
circulation. A Swedish study tracking
30,000 women over 10 years found a 20
percent lower incidence of stroke in those
who had high chocolate consumption (45
g per week) versus those who ate less.
REDUCED DIABETES RISK. A small Italian
study found that insulin sensitivity was
improved in volunteers who consumed
three ounces of dark chocolate for 15
days.
BETTER COGNITIVE AND VISUAL
FUNCTIONS. Recent research from the
University of Reading (UK) suggests
that cognitive and visual functions are
at least temporarily improved after
eating chocolate. Volunteers had better
recognition ability, faster response times,
and improved performance in low light
conditions.
POST-EXERCISE RECOVERY. Milk does
a body good, especially when it has
chocolate, according to two studies
from the University of Texas at Austin.
They found that athletes who consumed
chocolate milk after intensive physical
activity had improved oxygen intake,
better muscle development, and more
fat loss than those who drank typical
carbohydrate sports drinks.
So, what ’s the catch?
The same flavanols that make cocoa so
healthy also give it a very pungent taste.
Processes such as roasting and alkalizing
(also known as Dutch processing) turn bitter
raw cocoa beans into our favorite chocolate
treats, but they also reduce or remove the
healthful compounds. Adding sugar and
milk to create sweet variations like milk
chocolates also increases the calories.
Finally, chocolate is often just one of many
other ingredients in chocolate foods such as
cakes, cookies, and candies, whose overall
caloric and nutritional content may actually
counter any benefits.
There is currently no standard for
exactly how much chocolate is good
for you; for now, researchers can
only recommend a moderate
amount—1-2 ounces, a few
days per week. What ’s really
more important than how
much you eat is what
kind you choose:
DO CHOOSE DARK. The darker the
chocolate, the more flavanols and
phenols (another kind of antioxidant)
it contains. Look for the percentage of
cocoa content on labels: Dark chocolate
has between 30 and 90 percent; within
this range is semisweet chocolate, with
about 35 percent, and bittersweet with
at least 50 percent. In comparison, milk
chocolate has only about 10–20 percent
cocoa, while white chocolate has none
at all.
DON’T GO DUTCH. Dutch-processed
cocoa powder, often used to make
hot chocolate mixes, has added alkali
to neutralize its acidity and give it
a smoother, more mellow flavor.
Unfortunately, it also destroys most of
the beneficial flavanols. Instead, look for
powder labeled “natural cocoa.”
PURE IS BEST. There are so many
different ways to eat chocolate, but
the most healthful way is also the
most simple—just eating it by itself. A
few squares of chocolate will give you
the aforementioned benefits without
additional calories from butter, cream,
sugar, and other extra ingredients.
An apple a day might keep the doctor
away, but dipping it in chocolate would be
even better. sR
6 February-March 2012 7sansRival
8 January-February 2012 9sansRival
Casino chocolates, pure imagination!
8 February-March 2012 9sansRival
1
2
3
4 5
6
7
8
9
10
Lose yourself to the
luxury of silky, dark
chocolates. Indulge with
cappuccino flavored
hot chocolate drink
and lavish chocolate
biscuits. Give your
children chocolate
drinks for their
breakfast and guilt-
free, organic, fair-trade
munchies.
This is the Casino
chocolate line from
France, one of the
leading food retailers in
the world. The Casino
product line is not
limited to chocolate
alone, however; feel free
to visit our dedicated
Casino gondolas to
experience the variety
of their products.
1. Casino Famili
2. Casino Cappuccino Saveur Chocolat
3. Casino Bio Galettes de riz
4. Casino Delices Galettes Suedoises
5. 36 Chocolas Crispy Almond
6. Tous Les Jours Biscuits Avec Tablette
7. Casino Noir (Eclats de Feves de Cacao),
Casino Lait, Casino Noir
8. Casino Noir Noisettes Entieres
9. CAsin Rocher Praline
10. Casino Mention Bien26 January-February 2012 27sansRival
sansRival Live Pantry
Strawberries Dipped in Chocolate
Instead of the usual roses, why not consider giving your beloved something to munch
that will help increase his or her serotonin and endorphin levels? Available during
the month of February in our Gourmet-to-Go outlets, these chocolate-covered
strawberries come in two versions; dark chocolate with white chocolate drizzle, and
vise versa. Here is a simple version of the recipe you can try at home.
Ingredients:
Bamboo satay-type skewers
455 g fresh strawberries (not too ripe) with leaves (about 24 pieces)
450 g semi-sweet or dark chocolate morsels
25 g shortening
Preparation:
1. Insert the skewers into the tops of the strawberries.
2. In a double boiler, melt the chocolate and shortening, stirring occasionally until smooth. Holding them by the
bamboo skewers, dip the strawberries into the chocolate mixture.
3. Turn the strawberries upside down and insert the skewer into the styrofoam tray for the chocolate to cool
and set.
4. Drizzle with melted white chocolate (optional).
26 February-March 2012 27sansRival
sansRival Live Pantry
Like water for chocolate
Although wine and chocolate is a classic pairing (they’ve even
come up with chocolate wine), there are no absolutes when
it comes to pairing wine and certain foods. You can follow
suggestions, but in the end, you’ll trust your own palate and taste.
There are no experts on matching wine with food; there is only
your own preference. Derive your own pleasure: eat chocolate,
drink wine.
3. SPY VALLEY PINOT NOIR 2010 MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND
+ CASINO LES DESSERT DU CHOCOLATIER, GOUT TARTE CITRON
MERINGUÉE
Aromas of red fruits, plum, and sweet cherry with notes of spice
and dried sage are characteristics of this crisp wine. It has a fruit-
forward palate, long supple structure, and licorice and cocoa notes
that are typical of the vineyard’s sunny Wairu Valley location in the
Marlborough region.
4. BANROCK STATION MERLOT 2009, GOODEARTH FINEWINE,
AUSTRALIA + ROCHERS PRALINE LAIT
From the southeastern region of Australia, this merlot is a softer style
of wine, revealing ripe fruit aromas of blueberry, raspberry, and plum.
These characteristics linger on the palate and are complemented by
subtle, toasty oak notes.
5. PROSECCO DOC SPECIAL CUVEÉ, BRUT, FAMIGLIA ZONIN, ITALY +
CASINO BLANC, VANILLE BOURBON DOUX ET FONDANT
Prosecco is its own grape, and it tastes completely different from
chardonnay and pinot noir (the grapes of Champagne). Very well-
balanced and appealing, with the extremely delicate almond note
that is typical of Prosecco. An excellent aperitif, it can also be served
throughout the meal—including dessert—as long as the dishes are
not too strongly flavored.
1. HARDY’S TALL SHIPS TAWNY PORT, ESTD 1853 AUSTRALIA +
CASINO NOIR, ORANGE ÉCORCES CONFITES
Port is a fortified wine (meaning brandy has been added) originating
from Portugal, and is typically served as a dessert wine. This multiple
award-winner from Australia is a classic style of port wine, sweet and
full-bodied with a deep, tawny hue and aromas of ripe fig, prune,
and raisin. Chocolate, oak, and rancio characters are well-integrated
to deliver a palate that is rich and well-rounded with fine tannins
providing intensity and length of flavor. Also pairs well with mature
cheeses and sticky date pudding.
2. KENDAL JACKSON, VINTNER RESERVE, CABERNET SAUVIGNON.
70% SONOMA & 30% NAPA COUNTIES, 2008 + CASINO DÉLICES, NOIR
TANZANIE 85% AUX AMANDES EFFILÉES INTENSE ET CRAQUANT
Aged in a combination of French and American oak barrels, this serious
cabernet exhibits a deep ruby, purple-tinged hue and notes of charcoal,
black cherries, black currants, licorice, cassis, and mocha. Intense,
round, and silky tannins provide this California wine with abundant
richness, while cedar and vanilla notes linger on the finish. sR
28 February-March 2012 29sansRivalEditor-in-Chief Ige Ramos
Managing Editor Glenna Aquino
Associate Editor Roda Masinag
Art Director Joan Soro
Photography Pat Mateo
Food Stylist Sandee Masigan
Asstant Food Stylist David Siytangco
Contributing Editors Joseph Cortes
Alya Honasan
Tracey Paska
Proofreader Bernie C. Lizardo
Management LDV and Associates
VP-Food and Services Division Beth Romualdez
Rustan Supercenters, Inc.
Ambassador Bienvenido R. Tantoco, Sr.
N??????? ???????U RSCI
Bienvenido R. Tantoco, Jr.
N???????
President & CEO Donnie V. Tantoco
Chief Operating Officer Patrick Simon
VP Marketing Division Frances J. Yu
AVP Marketing Division Aggie G. Artadi
Ad & Promo Manager Tet F. Bachmann
Ad & Promo Head Pinky Lim
Ad & Promo Coordinator Vangie S. Isla
Published every 15th of the month
by Rustan Supercenters, Inc.
4tZ Goor, MorninP Star Center
347 Sen. Gil Wu?at Ave., Malati Cit?
Telefax: 899-1915
Website: www.rustansfresh.com
E-mail: [email protected]
Follo? us on T?itter at Ztt?Wllt?itter.coul
rustans(resZ and lile us on Facebool at Ztt?Wll???.
(acebool.coulrustans(resZ
Rustan?s sansRival magalogue is distributed for
free to Fresh Shopping Rewards and Star Sapphire
card members.
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reserved. NeitZer tZis ?ublication nor an? ?art o( it ua?
be re?roduced, stored in a retrieval s?steu or transuitted
in an? (oru or b? an? ueansvelectronic, uecZanical,
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permission of sansRival magalogue.
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{ <ati?unan { San Antonio { Touas Morato
{ MaPallanes { Fairvie? { A?ala Center , Cebu
{ Bana?a, Cebu
The pleasure of taste
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sansRival recommends
|The Dragon?s Pantry: Energy and Life 6
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|Lighten Up with 300-Calorie Meals 8
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Fast Food as Slow Food
|Rustan?s Supermarket?s Gourmet to Go 10
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Chinese New Year Special
|The Chinese Zodiac for Beginners 13
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sansRival Live Pantry
| The Yin and Yang of Chinese Cooking 14
Jiaozi Duu?linPs 16
Marbled TPP? 17
Le??t??? 18
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Zoasted Ducl Cua?ao 20
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from the editor?s table
IN DONIZETTI’S opera >[o]?]?[u}? (The Elixir of Love), Nemorino, a simple peasant, does
not stand a chance of being noticed by the object of his affection, Adina, a wealthy landowner.
One day an itinerant medicine man, Dr. Dulcamara, arrives in town, selling his bottled cure-all to the
townspeople. Nemorino, desperate for the love of Adina, asks the quack doctor if he has a love potion to
make Adina fall in love with him. Dulcamara gives him a vial that contained only sweetened wine. Without knowing
the content of the vial, the desperate Nemorino spent all his money. Had Dulcamara suggested that Nemorino give
Adina a bar of chocolate, the opera might have taken a different turn, and for the better.
For our main course, Joseph Cortes takes us on a journey by which the chocolate of cacao traveled from the temples of
ancient Mayan and Aztec civilizations to the boardrooms of Swiss chocolate manufacturers and finally to our kitchen.
Tracey Pasca writes about how chocolate is becoming a ?superfood,? aligning itself with anti-oxidant favorites
such as spinach, carrots, beets, sweet potatoes, and berries. But don?t take this as a license to over-indulge!
This is the pure cacao variety, and not the ones you pick up at the supermarket check-out counter. Like
wine and red meat, chocolate confections must be enjoyed in moderation.
For our ?sansRival recommends,? we welcome the chocolate selection of Casino from France.
Their product line is not limited to chocolate alone, however; feel free to visit our dedicated
gondolas to experience the variety of their products.
Over the years, chocolate has taken a path away from its traditional course, flowing toward
a more artisan approach and adding a new, delightful aspect to cooking by appearing in many
savory dishes. In line with this, the selection of recipes featured in our Live Pantry section focuses
on chocolate from a different angle, away from
being just a high-calorie indulgence. In this
month for valentines, change the way
you eat chocolate by cooking with this
elixir of love.
Chocolate: the elixir of love
2 February-March 2012 35#05+8#.

32The Chinese Zodiac
for beginners
By Walter Ang
This year, Chinese New Year ?s Day falls on Jan. 23. In Chinese
astrology, this date ushers in the Year of the Water Dragon.
Chinese astrology, just like Western and Indian astrology, uses the
position of the planets as seen in the sky and in relation to its zodiac
signs to forecast the possible scenarios for the coming year.
Chinese astrology also melds these ingredients to draw a picture
of certain qualities of persons born under a particular Zodiac animal
for the year, based on its 12-year cycle of animal signs (every year is
assigned a different Zodiac animal). Babies born from Jan. 23, 2012
to Feb. 9, 2013 will all be Water Dragons.
Here?s a quick look at the qualities or personalities of each of the
Chinese Zodiac signs. sR
Get to know the personality traits of the different astrological signs
12 January-February 2012 13sansRival
Spanish hot
chocolate drink
Always present at the Spanish breakfast
table, this hot chocolate recipe has been
adopted and embraced in the Philippines,
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/(?ZZ}}o?]??Z]lU]?]??(???}?
chocolate ehU(}?espesoUv](]? [????
}?vU]?]?oochocolate ahU(}?aguada .
Ingredients
1 pack (200g) Antonio Pueo Chocolate ?Excellent?
1 liter hot water (4 cups)
1 can evaporated milk or cream (about 1 cup)
Procedure
1. Crush, grate, or chop the chocolate.
2. In a two-liter size cooking pot, boil water. Drop
chocolate into boiling water. Stir, taking care not to burn
the chocolate.
3. In small bowl, mix cream with vinegar. (OJO: no
mention of vinegar or amount needed in ingredients!)
4. Continue to stir mixture until chocolate has completely
melted. Add milk and a teaspoon of fresh butter, then
turn off the fire. Beat to a froth. Serve.
Special champorado
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champoradoU??]oo?}v?]v???XdZ]?
recipe from the kitchen of Antonio Pueo
contains coconut milk and kakang gata
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vi}?X&}????o?&]o]?]v}?l(??U???]?
with beef tapa}?P?]oo?o??.?Z~tuyoX
Ingredients
1 cup glutinous rice (malagkit)
4 cups water
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1 cup ?thin? coconut milk
8 tablets Antonio Pueo Chocolate ?Excellent? or ?Rollos?
1? cups ?thick? coconut cream (kakang gata)
? cup brown sugar (packed)
Procedure
1. Extract 1? cups pure coconut cream from 2-3 large,
freshly grated coconuts. Set aside in refrigerator.
2. Add water to coconut and massage, then extract thin
coconut milk. Set aside.
3. Wash the rice at least twice and then boil in water
until rice is almost soft.
4. Add the salt, ?thin? coconut milk, and Antonio Pueo
Chocolate. Stir continuously until rice is a soft and
tender ?lugaw.?
5. When done, add ?thick? coconut cream and sugar.
Stir well over low fire until mixture starts to boil. Serve
steaming hot.
sansRival Live Pantry
12 February-March 2012 13sansRival 14January-February 2012 15sansRival
Chocolate Pancakes with Strawberries
Topped with luscious strawberries and drizzled with decadent chocolate sauce, this
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u}?v]vP??]oov???Z?uP]vJdZ]??]?ul?}??}?vu]?u
pancakes.
Ingredients
1 2/3 cups flour
1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
2 tsp baking powder
? tsp salt
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 cup chocolate chips
2 eggs
2 tsp vanilla
5 Tbsp (plus more for cooking) butter, melted and cooled
1? cups (plus up to a ? cup more) milk
Topping
Fresh strawberries, sliced
Desired chocolate sauce or syrup
Procedure
1. Mix together flour, cocoa, baking powder, salt, and sugar through a sieve placed over a large mixing bowl.
Add the chocolate chips to the dry ingredients.
2. In a second bowl, beat eggs and vanilla together. Add butter then milk, and continue to blend. Pour the liquid
mix over the dry ingredients and stir thoroughly.
3. Place a non-stick skillet over moderate heat and brush with a little melted butter. Using a ladle, drop batter
onto the skillet to make pancakes about six inches across. Cook until edges begin to look dry and
bubbles appear on the surface. Flip gently and cook for another minute on the other side. Place the
pancake in a deep dish and cover with a kitchen towel to keep warm until ready to serve.
4. Serve with your favorite chocolate sauce, syrup, or Nutella , topped with sliced, fresh strawberries.
sansRival Live Pantry
14February-March 2012 15sansRival Year of the Rat:
Jiaozi dumplings
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Ingredients:
6 cups bok choi, finely chopped
1 tsp salt
1 lb ground pork
2 cups scallions, finely chopped
2 1/2 tbsp light soy sauce
1 tbsp rice wine
2 tbsp sesame oil
2 tbsp finely chopped ginger
1 tbsp cornstarch
50 rounds of dumpling wrappers
Rice vinegar for dipping
Ingredients for dipping sauce
Mix together:
1 fresh red chili
2 tsp fresh grated ginger
Rice vinegar
Soy sauce
Preparation:
Toss cabbage and salt together. Stand for 30 minutes
and squeeze all water out of the cabbage. Add pork,
scallion, soy sauce, rice wine, sesame oil, ginger, and
cornstarch. Stir until combined and drain off any excess
liquid.
Place a heaping teaspoon of the filling in the center
of each wrapper. Spread a little water along the edge
of the wrapper and fold wrapper over. Press to seal.
Place dumplings on a baking sheet that has been lightly
dusted with cornstarch.
Cook dumplings in a large saucepan of boiling water for
eight to10 minutes, until it floats.
Year of the Ox:
Marbled Tea Eggs
Served as snack or with a dim sumU?Z??PP??????v?u?}?ZE?z? [??
?oXdZ???Z]vP]?U?Z?????}ulX
Ingredients:
6 eggs
3 1/2 cups cold water, or as needed
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp soy sauce
1/2 cup brewed black tea
2 star anise, broken into individual pieces
1 cinnamon stick
Preparation:
Place the eggs in a saucepan with the water, making sure that there is at least ? inch of
water above the eggs. Cover and bring to a rolling boil. Remove the saucepan from the fire
and let the eggs stand in the hot water for 15-20 minutes, until they are cooked. Remove the
eggs and run them under cold running water to cool. (Reserve the water in the pan).
Tap the hard-boiled eggs gently with the back of a spoon, to make a series of cracks all over
the eggshells, while making sure the shell remains intact. (If the shell does come off, don?t
worry?it just means that egg will have a darker color than the others).
Bring the water in the pan back to a boil. Add the salt, soy sauce, brewed black tea, star anise
pieces, and the cinnamon stick. Add the eggs. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for two hours.
Turn off the heat and let the eggs sit in the hot liquid until ready to serve. Serves six.
sansRival Live Pantry
16 January-February 2012 17sansRival
Chile Vegetariano
con Sabor Chocolate
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has long been a part of Central American
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that ?s deliciously demonstrated in this
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This recipe yields six servingst
Ingredients
2 medium dried ancho chilies, rinsed, patted dry,
split lengthwise, seeded
1 dried chipotle chili, rinsed, patted dry, split
lengthwise, seeded
1 tsp cumin seeds, toasted
1 tsp dried oregano, crushed
? tsp cinnamon
? tsp salt
2 tsp olive oil
2 onions, chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup zucchini, cubed
1 cup yellow squash, cubed
1 cup broccoli florets
1 tsp grated orange zest
? tsp muscovado sugar
30 g unsweetened chocolate, shaved or grated
1 can (400 g) whole tomatoes in juice, drained,
chopped, reserving juice
1? cups water
2 cans (400 g) pinto beans, drained, rinsed (or
cooked kidney beans)
Sprigs of fresh coriander (wansoy)
Procedure
1. Pan fry the chili peppers (or the substitute peppers)
flat in a skillet on both sides over medium heat until just
tender, about 30 seconds. Cut into small pieces.
2. Combine chili peppers and cumin seeds in a coffee or
spice grinder and process until finely ground. A mortar
and pestle can be used as well. Combine chili mixture
with oregano, cinnamon, and salt.
3. Heat oil in a large pot and saut? onions for two
minutes. Mix in garlic and cook, stirring, ne to two
minutes. Stir in chili mixture and cook a minute. Add
zucchini or squash and broccoli and cook five minutes,
covered. Stir in orange zest, sugar, chocolate, tomatoes
and juice, and water.
4. Place lid on pot and cook until vegetables are tender,
stirring chili often. When vegetables are cooked through,
add beans and cook another five minutes. Season to
taste with salt, if needed. Serve warm and garnish with
sprigs of coriander (wansoy).
Notes and ingredient substitution:
Chipotles are smoked jalapeno peppers and are also
known as chile ahumado. These chilies are usually a dull
tan to coffee color. As much as one fifth of the Mexican
jalape?o crop is processed into chipotles. Meanwhile,
ancho is a dry, deep reddish brown chili pepper with
a sweet hot flavor. When fresh they are referred to as
poblanos. The ancho is the sweetest of the dried chilis,
and is most commonly used in authentic Mexican
cooking, a staple in red chilli and tamales. If these
peppers are not available, sweet bell pepper and green
finger chilies (siling haba used in sinigang) can be used,
but the smokey, Mexican flavor would be lost. For extra
zing, pan-fry siling labuyo, but make sure to remove the
seeds first, unless you want your chili really hot!
If pinto beans are not available, kidney beans and/or
garbanzos can be used for this recipe. Make sure that the
beans are cooked prior to cooking.
sansRival Live Pantry
16 February-March 2012 17sansRival sansRival Live Pantry
18 January-February 2012 19sansRival
Chicken Mole
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neighborhood molinosU}?P?]v??U?}ovX}}l]vPu}o??}v??Z?ur
}v??u]vP??}??U]???u]vo?P?Z?}vo?(}???]o}?]}v?v.???X
Serves four.
Ingredients
3 Tbsp cayenne pepper
3 Tbsp freshly ground black pepper
4 Tbsp oil, divided in two parts
500 g chicken breast, skin on, cubed
2 tsp mild chili powder or paprika
2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground cinnamon
50 g unsweetened chocolate (at least 70 percent cocoa content), broken into pieces
2 cans (400 g) diced tomatoes
Procedure
1. In a bowl, gently coat the chicken with equal parts cayenne and black pepper to taste. In a large pot, heat two
tablespoons oil and cook the chicken between four and six minutes or until cooked through. Remove chicken
and set aside.
2. Blend chili powder with cumin and cinnamon and add more cayenne and black pepper according to
preferred level of hotness. In the same pot, heat two tablespoons of oil and add chili powder mix. Stir with a
spoon and heat over medium heat until blackened, about six to eight minutes.
3. Turn down the heat, stir in chocolate, and continue stirring until melted. When chocolate is fully melted,
add the canned diced tomatoes, turn the heat up, and bring to a boil. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring often. Add
chicken and continue cooking until heated through for another five minutes. Serve warm, with rice or tortilla,
tomato salsa, and guacamole.
sansRival Live Pantry
18 February-March 2012 19sansRival Year of the Dragon:
Roasted Duck Cuapao
sansRival Live Pantry
Year of the Snake:
Sweet and Sour Pork with Pineapple,
Carrots, and Bell Peppers
This recipe has been popularized by Chinese eateries in the ?50s and ?60 using canned pineapple.
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Preparation:
Cut the pork into one-inch cubes. Marinate in the soy sauce and cornstarch for 20 minutes.
To prepare the sauce, in a small bowl, combine the sugar, ketchup, dark soy sauce, salt, water
or juice, and vinegar. Set aside. In a separate bowl, dissolve the cornstarch in the water. Set
aside.
Peel the carrot and chop into diagonal one-inch pieces. Cut the bell peppers in half, remove
the seeds, and cut into cubes. Heat the oil for deep-frying to 375?F.
For the batter, combine the flour and cornstarch. Stir in the egg white and vegetable oil. Add
as much of the warm water as is needed to form a thick batter that is neither too dry nor too
moist. (The batter should not be runny, but should drop off the back of a spoon.)
Dip the marinated pork cubes in the batter. Deep-fry in batches, taking care not to overcrowd
the wok. Deep-fry the pork until it is golden brown. Remove and drain on paper towels.
(If desired, you can deep-fry the pork a second time to make it extra crispy. Make sure the oil
is back up to 375?F before you begin deep-frying again).
To prepare the sweet and sour sauce, bring the sauce ingredients to a boil in a small
saucepan over medium heat. Add the carrots, green pepper, and pineapple. Bring
to a boil again and thicken with cornstarch mixture, stirring. Check the
sauce one more time and adjust seasonings, adding salt and/or
vinegar, if desired.
Serve hot over the deep-fried pork.
Serve the sweet and sour
pork over rice.
Denise and Polly are sisters specializing
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ago with only two products: Whole
Roast Duck and Roast Duck Siopao.
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back with a vengeance.
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Roast Duck Cuapao.
The Roast Duck Cuapao sells for P90 each.
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lunch or snack.
Denise and Polly have created and produced
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can enjoy in the comfort of your own home. Their
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home?perfect for the coming Chinese New Year.
For orders: Denise and Polly ?s The Classic Roast
Duck Outlet. Please call tel. nos. 911-5795, 911-
5718, (0917) 822-6400, or (0917) 528-5838. With
stand-alone outlets in Rustan?s Supermarket
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Batter:
1/3 cup flour
1/3 cup cornstarch
1 egg white, lightly beaten
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1/3 cup warm water, as needed
Ingredients:
3/4 lb pork tenderloin
2-3 tsp soy sauce
Pinch of cornstarch
Sauce:
1/4 cup sugar
2 tbsp ketchup
2 tbsp dark soy sauce
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 cup water or reserved
pineapple juice
1/4 cup vinegar
1 tbsp cornstarch dissolved in 4
tbsp water
Other:
1 carrot
1/2 red bell pepper
1/2 green bell pepper
1/2 cup pineapple chunks
3 cups oil for deep-frying, or as
needed
20 January-February 2012 21sansRival
Chocolate Savory Short Ribs
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}?Z???v??}???????}v?]????}(?Z?o???o]?X/(?}?[?v???u?o
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your view on chocolate. Makes four servings.
Ingredients
? cup diced bacon
2.5 kg bone-in short ribs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1? cups diced onions
? cup diced shallots
? cup diced celery
? cup diced peeled carrots
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups red wine
3 cups chicken broth (low salt)
2 cups canned diced tomatoes, drained
2 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
3 Tbsp grated unsweetened chocolate
2 Tbsp Dutch-process cocoa powder
1 tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary
Procedure
1. Cook bacon in a large pot until crispy. Take bacon out of pot with a slotted spoon and reserve on paper
towels. Sprinkle short ribs with salt and pepper and sear in pot with bacon drippings, about two to three
minutes per side. Remove ribs and reserve on a plate.
2. Saut? onions, shallots, celery, carrots, and garlic in same pot until softened, about eight to 10 minutes. Pour
in red wine and bring mixture to a boil for about five minutes or until liquid is reduced by about half?be sure
to scrape the bottom of the pot to release any browned bits.
3. Add broth, tomatoes, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, bacon, and short ribs to pot. Stir and place lid over pot. Cook
for about 1? hours. Take lid off of pot and continue simmering for 1? hours or until ribs are tender.
4. Remove ribs with a slotted spoon and reserve on a plate. Remove bay leaf and spoon off any fat that has
risen to the top of the sauce. Bring sauce to a boil for about eight minutes or until it begins to thicken.
5. Lower heat to medium and add chocolate, cocoa powder, and rosemary. Cook, stirring, until chocolate melts.
Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add ribs back into pot and cook until heated through. Serve warm.
sansRival Live Pantry
20 February-March 2012 21sansRival 22 January-February 2012 23sansRival
Rabo de Toro
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?]vUv??]?X]??}??lZ}}o??Z?]vP?.voUuP]o?}?Z?}?Z]?ZX
Ingredients
1 whole oxtail (about 1 ? kilos), skinless, cut into two-inch pieces
Salt and pepper, to taste
Flour, for dredging
Olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 head garlic, chopped
2 large ripe tomatoes, chopped (or substitute canned whole tomatoes)
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
? tsp dried thyme
? tsp dried oregano
2 bay leaves
? teaspoon dried rosemary
10 whole peppercorns
Pinch of Spanish paprika
2 cups Spanish red wine
2 cups or more meat stock
Chorizo, cut at a slant, ?-inch thick
2 Tbsp bitter or dark chocolate shavings (optional)
Procedure
1. Clean the oxtail and remove the extra fat. Blanch in boiling water then drain. Pat dry with paper towels.
2. Season the oxtail with salt and pepper and dredge in flour. Fry in olive oil until light brown. Set aside.
3. In the same pot, saut? the onion, garlic, tomatoes, and carrot until wilted.
4. Put back the oxtail pieces, add the thyme, oregano, bay leaves, rosemary, peppercorns and paprika. Stir to coat
well.
5. Pour in the wine, let simmer for a few minutes to reduce, then add the meat stock. You don?t have to use up the two
cups immediately. Pour just enough to cover the meat and add as you need. Cover and simmer over low fire until meat
is fork tender.
6. Raise heat to high to reduce and thicken the sauce. Add the chorizo in the last 10?15 minutes before removing from
the fire.
7. Add the chocolate shavings, if desired, at the end.
Notes: The dark chocolate shavings add a different flavor dimension to the dish. Allow the dish to sit at room
temperature before serving to allow the flavors to develop. Reheat, if desired.
sansRival Live Pantry
22 February-March 2012 23sansRival sansRival Live Pantry
24 January-February 2012 25sansRival
Foolproof Chocolate Cake
This basic chocolate cake recipe comes straight from the kitchen of Antonio Pueo.
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or leave it in all its naked cocoa glory?anything goes!
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Wo?}v??o???}??uv?o??Zv??]vP??]ol??}?}v??}v}?v?X
Ingredients:
3 Tbsp butter
1 cup boiling water
1? cup all-purpose flour
1 cup light brown sugar, packed
1? cup Antonio Pueo Ground Chocolate
1 tsp baking soda
? tsp fine salt
2 pcs. fresh eggs
cup all-purpose cream, soured with ? tsp vinegar
1 tsp vanilla extract
Preparation:
1. Prepare two greased and lined eight-inch diameter round baking pans.
2. Preheat oven to 350?F (or 180?C for gas) for 10 minutes.
3. In small bowl, mix cream with vinegar.
4. In medium-sized mixing bowl, combine Antonio Pueo ground chocolate, butter, boiling water. Stir until
chocolate is melted.
5. In large mixing bowl combine flour, brown sugar, baking soda, and salt. Mix thoroughly with a balloon
whisk.
6. Blend eggs, soured cream, and vanilla, and beat vigorously by hand for two minutes (or with electric beater
on medium speed for one minute).
7. Pour batter into prepared baking pan. Bake for 35?40 minutes or until cake tester comes out clean. Cool
completely on cake rack; frost if desired. Make eight to 10 servings.
From savory to sweet
It is a truth universally acknowledged that everything tastes better
with chocolate. From sweet pastries to savory stews, cocoa is a
versatile ingredient that adds a richness of flavor to a dish. It’s a
wonder then that for centuries, this “food of the gods” was used as
everything but food.
Ancient Mesoamericans first used the seeds of the cacao tree as
a form of currency and for a bitter ceremonial brew to which they
added cornmeal, chili peppers, vanilla beans, and various herbs. Later,
the Spanish brought the precious pods back to Europe, where the
wealthy consumed it as a beverage for pleasure and as medicine. To
temper its strong flavor, sugar and cinnamon were added, and milk
replaced water. So began the enduring connection between chocolate
and sweetness.
As an ingredient in recipes, chocolate has long been used (and
preferred) in sweet confections and desserts, but as far back as the
Aztecs, it has been combined with herbs and spices. No one knows
when or where chocolate was first used in a savory dish, but one story
is that nuns in Puebla, Mexico created a special recipe for a visiting
dignitary—mole, the piquant, cocoa-infused sauce now considered
Mexico’s national dish.
From drink to dessert to main dish, chocolate is deliciously divine.
Fast food as slow food
sansRival Live Pantry
10 February-March 2012 11sansRival

33

34
Best of British
SR Brit-Revised Cover.indd 1 3/20/13 8:55 AM
Volume 3 • No. 3 • April 2013
The pleasure of taste
sansRival
The best of British

35
Volume 3 • No. 5 • June 2013
The pleasure of taste
sansRivalsansRivalsansRivalsansRival
Philippine
Frmhouse
Cookin

Slide | 51
9. Generate income by having a
clear marketing initiative
sanRival is a free monthly
magalogue distributed to
the most loyal customers of
Rustan’s Supermarket. It
represents an innovative
customer service tool,
a superior advertising
proposition, and an overall
profitable undertaking for
the Company.
Media Kit 2012
Connect with your market • Advertise with us
Our Mission is to provide fresh and relevant information
to the community with discerning tastes through insightful
writing and innovative art direction, food styling and
photography.
sansRival is the unrivalled consumer
service publication of Rustan’s Supermarket that inspires an optimum pleasurable food shopping experience.
Our target reader is one who
enjoys the good things in life,
and is both enthusiastic and
discerning when it comes to
good food and wine.
With authoritative,
informative and entertaining
articles, coupled with
forward-looking editorial
design and a high standard
of photography and food
styling, SansRival is the
perfect showcase for Rustan’s
Supermarket’s range of
grocery products. As a theme-
based, consumer service
publication, SansRival also
advocates fresh views and
insights into the true essence
of gastronomy.
In less than a year of its existence Rustan’s
Supermarket sansRival magalogue has develop
customer following and garnered the Anvil Award of
Excellence and the top Anvil Bronze Award for the
best PR Tool in External Publication from the Public
Relations Society of the Philippines.

36
Volume 2 • No. 2 • May-June 2012
The pleasure of taste
sansRival
Locavore

37
Volume 2 • No. 4 • July-August 2012
The pleasure of taste
sansRivalsansRival
Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore
Volume 2 • No. 6 • October 2012
The pleasure of taste
sansRival
Le goût de la France
Volume 3 • No. 4 • May 2013
The pleasure of taste
sansRivalsansRival
Le g
Mother’s
neg

387PMVNFt/Pt4FQUFNCFS
e pleasure of taste

39
Volume 3 • No. 9 • November-December 2013
Th e pleasure of taste
Sweet
Chriﬆ mas

Slide | 52
Rates per Placement
Page 1x Placement
Quarterly
Placements (3)
Semi-Annual
Placements (5)
Yearly
Placements (10)
Full Page,
full color
75,000.00 71,250.00 67,687.50 64,303.13
OBC 90,000.00 85,500.00 81,225.00 77,163.75
IFC 100,000.00 95,000.00 90,250.00 85,737.50
IFC Spread 180,000.00 171,000.00 162,450.00 154,327.50
IBC 95,000.00 90,250.00 85,737.50 81,450.63
1/2 page 50,000.00 47,500.00 45,125.00 42,868.75
Slots 30,000.00 28,500.00 27,075.00 25,721.25
sansRival links you up
directly with our market
Contact Details
Tet F. Bachmann
Ad & Promo Manager
Pinky Lim
Ad & Promo Head
SansRival Magalogue
Rustan Supercenters, Inc.
4th floor, Morning Star Center
347 Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati City
Telefax: 899-1915
Website: www.rustansfresh.com
E-mail: [email protected]
sansRival is collected and
kept by its loyal fans
Magazine Details
Circulation: 150,000
Distribution: Metro Manila/ Cebu
Frequency: Monthly / 10 issues annually
Size: 8 ½ x 11 inches • 36 pages
Full-color • Bookpaper stock/
Cover Price: Free / Not for sale
Advertising Details
Deadlines
n Booking: Every 25
th
of the month, two
months prior to the release date
n Material Submission: Every 20
th
of the
month prior to the next issue
n Cancellation: On the 1
st
day of the
month prior to the next issue
Material Ad Specifications
n A one full page, full color ad’s size is 8
½ x 11 inches.
n Add .5 of an inch on all sides for bleed,
after the cutting marks.
n The file must be at least 300 dpi in
resolution.
n Preferred format is TIFF (CMYK mode
only)
Advertising Rates

Slide | 53
10. Clarify your vision and
mission statement, learn from
your past mistakes and
continue to innovate
1
Rustan’s Supermarket sansRival magalogue
Creative Strategic Planning Workshop Report • March 2012

Slide | 54
2 3
In less than a year of its existence Rustan’s
Supermarket sansRival magalogue has
develop customer following and garnered the
Anvil Award of Excellence and the top Anvil
Bronze Award for the best PR Tool in External
Publication from the Public Relations Society
of the Philippines.
Executive Summary
SanRival is a free monthly magalogue distributed to the
most loyal customers of Rustan’s Supermarket. It represents
an innovative customer service tool, a superior advertising
proposition, and an overall profitable undertaking for the
Company.
With authoritative, informative and entertaining articles,
coupled with forward-looking editorial design and a high
standard of photography and food styling, SansRival is
the perfect showcase for Rustan’s Supermarket’s range of
grocery products. As a theme-based, consumer service
publication, SansRival also advocates fresh views and
insights into the true essence of gastronomy.
Our target reader is one who enjoys the good things in life,
and is both enthusiastic and discerning when it comes to
good food and wine.
In an effort to balance consumption with social
responsibility our magazine is also keen to promote organic
produce at every opportunity, while at the same time
recognizing the need to showcasing quality products at
affordable prices.

Slide | 55
4 5
Background
Being in the challenging stage, sansRival Magalogue
aims to clarify organizational goals, identify problem areas,
improved interpersonal relationships from within and come
up with a strategic action plan.
As a result of the strategic Planning Workshop held on
November 30, 2011 in Tagaytay City, the publication team
of sansRival Magalogue came up with a Strategic Plan
covering CY 2012 to 2014. The Strategic Plan aims to set
new directions to make SansRival an unrivalled magazine of
Rustan’s.
Our Vision
sansRival is the unrivalled consumer service publication
of Rustan’s Supermarket that inspires an optimum pleasurable food shopping experience.
Our Mission
We provide fresh and relevant information to the global community with discerning tastes through insightful writing and innovative art direction, food styling and photography.

Slide | 56
6 7
Our Core Values
Our mission will be accomplished by living according to our shared values. We believe that
relationships are critical to the success of SansRival by maintaining the highest ethical and
moral standards.
• Customer Centric Our customers and readers whose lives we touch are our partners in creating. Their loyalty to SansRival is our greatest reward.
• Transparency and Openness
We communicate openly, honestly and frequently.
• Creativity and Innovativeness
Our job is to unleash our imagination and creativity to make SansRival unique
and a quality magazine.
• Teamwork
We value cooperation and collaboration. We believe in the inherent talents of
everyone. We work together in the spirit of respect.
Strategic Goals
1. Strengthen internal capacities to effectively respond to the
changing needs and preferences of our customers.
 To develop and establish a feedback system using online and
social media.
 To expose the team to current trends and styles in writing,
designing and lay out.
2. To improve the linkages and interface with Rustan’s
Marketing Department for seamless logistics and
communication support.
 Develop and implement work systems and procedures to
facilitate work and communication processes.
3. Establish strategic partnerships with local and global
stakeholders.
 Develop a strategic alliance to different networks

Slide | 57
8 9
Activity Output Time Frame Responsible Person
Strategic Goal 1
Establish and Develop
feedback system in magazine
through online and SMS
Letters to editors
Beginning of Volume 2
April 2012
Expose team to current
trends, styles, movements
etc.
Attend fairs, Food expos,
magazines, etc.
Throughout 2012 Ige, Beth Romualdez
Strategic Goal 2
Develop and Implement
Work systems and
procedures;
Monitor systems &
procedures
Work manual/ process flow
Available and accessible top
shelf products
Intensified Marketing
Increase readership and
circulation
Beginning of Volume 2
April 2012
Rustans marketing with
Sansrival Saff
Strategic Goal 3
Establish partnership with
institutions to provide
technical support and
recipes for Sansrival
Kitchen Tested RecipesJanuary 2012
Strategic Goal 4
Expand Readership
Develop Sansrival as brand
extension
Generate reader feedback/
participation
Generate quantifiable
feedback/ statistics
Website
Twitter
Facebook
First Quarter

Proposed Per-issue Budget for Editorial, Pre-Media, Pre-press Production and Design.
SansRival Magalogue Volume 2, Numbers 1-10
Editor in Chief 75,000.00
Managing Editor 30,000.00
Associate Editor 30,000.00
Art Director 30,000.00
Food Stylist 30,000.00
Photographer 30,000.00
Copy Editor 10,000.00
Proof Reader 5,000.00
Contributing writers2,000 x 6 12,000.00
Logistic support 8,000.00
Messengerial and Communication
Management fee 24,000.00
Accounting, Legal, Back office
Meals 10,000.00
Supplies and Materials 6,000.00
Total 300,000.00
Schedule of submission of offers | sansRival 2012-2013 • Volume 2
Volume 2Theme Date
date of submission of
offers to marketing
No 1
From Farm to Supermarket
Raw and Fresh
April 15-May 14 1-Mar
No 2 Filipino Cuisine May 15- June 19 2-Apr
No 3 Japanese June 20-July 19 1-May
No 4 Korean July 20-August 19 4-Jun
No 5 Singapore/Malaysian August 20-September 19 2-Jul
No 6 Vietnamese September 20-October 19 1-Aug
No 7 French/French Fusion October 20-November 24 3-Sep
No 8
Frugal cuisine: what to do with
your christmas left overs and
more
November 25-December 30 4-Oct
No 9
Chinese New Year
(Spring Festival)
January 1-January 30 8-Nov
No 10
Baby Food, Fun Food,
Children’s Food
February 1-March 14 5-Dec

Slide | 58
10
Editor-in-Chief Ige Ramos
Managing Editor Glenna Aquino
Associate Editor Roda Masinag
Art Director Joan Soro
Photography Stanley Ong
Food Stylist Sandee Masigan
Assistant Food Stylist David Siytangco
Contributing Editors Joseph Cortes
Alya Honasan
Tracey Paska
Proofreader Bernie C. Lizardo
Management LDV and Associates
VP-Food Services Division Beth Romualdez
Rustan Supercenters, Inc.
Ambassador Bienvenido R. Tantoco, Sr.
Chairman Emeritus, RSCI
Bienvenido R. Tantoco, Jr.
Chairman
President & CEO Donnie V. Tantoco
Chief Operating Officer Patrick Simon
VP Marketing Division Frances J. Yu
AVP Marketing Division Aggie G. Artadi
Ad & Promo Manager Tet F. Bachmann
Ad & Promo Head Pinky Lim
Ad & Promo Coordinator Vangie S. Isla
SansRival Magalogue is published every 15th of the month
by Rustan Supercenters, Inc.
4th floor, Morning Star Center
347 Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati City
Telefax: 899-1915
Website: www.rustansfresh.com
E-mail: [email protected]

Slide | 59
11. Finally, embrance change
and match the rebranding effort
prescribed by the company and
continue to innovate

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Slide | 61
Volume 5 • No. 4 • December 2015 •
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Volume 5 • No. 4 • December 2015 •
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Menu
The Pleasure of Taste
Volume 5 • No. 4 • December 2015
Rustan’s Supermarkets are located at Makati Area: Glorietta, Greenbelt 1, Paseo de Magallanes,
Alphaland Makati Place, Paseo Center, Century City Mall, San Antonio Plaza. North Area: Shangri-La Plaza,
Gateway Mall, Katipunan, Tomas Morato, P. Guevarra, Corinthian Hills, Village Center Antipolo.
South Area: Ayala Alabang Village, Evia Lifestyle Center. Cebu: Oakridge Business Park, Ayala Center,
Arcenas Estate. CDO: Ayala Centrio Mall. Also visit Marketplace by Rustan’s at Rockwell Power Plant Mall
and Central Square Bonifacio High Street.
4 Proust Questionnaire
His Excellency Julio Camarena Villaseñor,
Ambassador of Mexico, on the historical
and culinary ties that bind our two nations
By Nicolas B. Pichay
6 Exotic Yet Familiar Food
at Cocina Peruvia
By Cyrene de la Rosa
8 Some Like It Hot!
By Maan d’Asis Pamaran
10 A Stellar Loaf of Bread |
Brown Rice and Shallot Bread
By Gretchen Consunji-Lim
12 From the Middle East to Ireland
on a Silk Road
By Dolly Dy-Zulueta
14 Falafel, Kofta and Hummus |
Tabbouleh and Mansaf
16 Palestinian Chicken | M’jaddara |
Saffron Rice
18 Cinnamon Date Cake | Baklava
20 Rabanadas | Lechona Tolimense
22 Rustan’s Shopper
Tami Ledesma finds that eating healthfully
also nurtures a positive flow of energy
By Maan d’Asis Pamaran
24 Grapevine
Drink a cup of Christmas cheer
with Manille Liqueur de Dalandan
and winter sangrias
30 Checkout Counter
God Jul! Christmas in Sweden
By Yvette Tan
Illustration by Horacio Makabenta
Follow along on a movable feast
with recipes tracing the ingredients
and cooking techniques that
originated in the land of Jesus’ birth
and flavored the cuisines of Latin
America and Asia. From aromatic
spices to fragrant fruits, the food
and drink of disparate Christmas
traditions around the world reveal
the close ties that bind us all.
Ige Ramos
Editor-in-Chief
Managing Editor Tracey Paska
Art Director Ed Yap
Photographer Stanley Ong
Food Stylist Sandee Masigan
Associate Editor Jojo Serrano
Proofreader Bernie C. Lizardo
Illustrator Horacio Makabenta
Contributing Editors
Maan D’Asis Pamaran
Nicolas Pichay
Cyrene de la Rosa
Yvette Tan
Dolly Dy-Zulueta
Management IRDS / LDV & Associates
Rustan Supercenters, Inc.
Ambassador Bienvenido R. Tantoco, Sr.
C
hairman EmEritus, RSCI
Bienvenido R. Tantoco, Jr.
C
hairman
Donnie V. Tantoco
P
rEsidEnt
Pierre Deplanck
CEO
Marketing Director Ana M. Punongbayan
Ad & Promo Manager Pinky Lim
Published by Rustan Supercenters, Inc.
4/F Morning Star Center
347 Sen. Gil Puyat Avenue, Makati City
Telefax: 899-1915
Website: www.rustansfresh.com
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Follow us on Twitter at http://twitter.com/rustansfresh
and like us on Facebook at
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Copyright ©2015 Rustan Supercenters, Inc. All rights reserved.
Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced,
stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by
any means
—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or
otherwise
—without the prior permission of sansRival magalogue.
On Christmas, the Galleon Trade, and how
Indian food became spicy
Suddenly, Christmas is here again,
and for us at Rustan’s Supermarket
and SansRival, it was another
busy and productive year. This is
always a good time to reflect
on what we have achieved,
especially in how we were able to
better serve our customers.
Because Christmas is many things
to many people, we decided to do
away with all the glitz usually associated with
the holiday season. Instead, we searched for
a deeper meaning of Christmas and how this
tradition came to our land in the first place.
For years, I have wondered what Jesus ate
when he was growing up in Nazareth, and what
did Joseph and Mary eat when they fled to
Egypt? These questions were answered when
I visited Palestine-born Chef Abraham Phelan
at the Silk Road Kitchen in Dublin. Abraham
explained how Mediterranean cuisine is much
influenced by the Middle East, and how olive
oil, wheat, grapes, and pomegranate are just a
few of the ingredients present in their dishes.
As Christians moved westward, the recipes,
ingredients, and the manner of cooking
traveled with them. From Europe,
the Christmas tradition crossed
the Atlantic Ocean and spread
throughout the Americas. When the
navigator Fray Andres de Urdaneta
was in the Philippines, he discovered
tornoviaje, or the return route
to the Americas. This
discovery gave way to
the Manila-Acapulco
Galleon Trade, one of
the early trans-global
trade initiatives that
brought both the material and
intangible cultures of Spain to the
Philippines via Mexico.
Since it was the Galleon Trade that brought
the pronounced cultural exchange between
Mexico and the Philippines, and we will
celebrate this year as the bicentennial of
its ending, it is apt that we feature Mexican
Ambassador Julio Camarena Villaseñor, who
speaks about the food and cultural ties that
bind our two countries. Along with those from
Mexico, we also feature recipes from Peru,
Brazil, and Colombia.
But for the Galleon Trade, the chilli would
have not reached Asia and, thus, Szechuan,
Thai, and Indian cuisines would have been
different from what is now familiar to us. Ponchit
Ponce Enrile of the Chilliheads, an organization
of chilli lovers, gives us an insight into the
Scoville rating of this Mexican import. As we
partake of our Christmas fare, why not pause for
a moment and consider the history and origin of
our food, and how the chilli has done a complete
circle by influencing the food of the Middle East.
Our sincerest thanks go out to Andrew
Masigan for letting us use the facilities of
XO46 Heritage Bistro, and to Chef Tanya Dizon
for kitchen-testing and cooking the featured
recipes. Our gratitude, as well, go to Chef
Him Uy de Baron of Cocina Peruvia, Gretchen
Consunji-Lim of Manilabake, and most specially
to Chef Abraham Phelan and Rikke Callaghan
of the Silk Road Kitchen for providing us with
the central recipes for this issue.
Have a hot and spicy holiday season!
2 December 2015
From the Editor’s Table
sansRival 3

Slide | 63
Posadas and Ponche Navideño
Ponche Navideño
Ingredients
175 grams small apples, chopped
5 small pink guavas, sliced
115 grams raisins or prunes, or a mixture
3 unpeeled oranges, scrubbed and
sliced
½ cup dried hibiscus flowers
2 pieces sugar cane stalks, peeled and
cut into strips
1 or 2 (6-inch) sticks cinnamon
12 cups water
1 cup dark brown sugar or muscovado
sugar
Brandy, rum, or tequila to taste
Procedure
Combine apples, guavas, raisins and/or
prunes, oranges, dried hibiscus, sugar
cane, cinnamon sticks, and water in
a large stock pot. Bring to a boil, then
lower the heat and cover the pot with
a lid. Simmer the ponche for one hour
and then add sugar to taste. Cover
and simmer for another 10 minutes. If
flavoring with liquor, add to taste and
simmer for a few minutes longer. Ser ve
hot in mugs.
Christmas in Two Countries
By Nicolas B. Pichay
Given the cultural and culinary similarities between the two countries he officially traverses, His
Excellency Julio Camarena Villaseñor, Ambassador of Mexico, reveals a warm affection toward the
Philippines, which makes him feel like he has never left home. Possessing an adventurous palate, he
has admitted in previous interviews to having enjoyed durian fruit but not yet having the willpower to
try balut. Given time, we think his natural curiosity for the way others live, eat, and enjoy life will make
him try this and other Philippine delicacies.
In this Proustian questionnaire, Ambassador Camarena explains how common words have
brought our two cultures together, and enumerates the gustatory delights that ensure Mexico and
the Philippines continue to enjoy such close ties. Enjoy, too, his observations about Mexican spices,
authentic tortillas and traditional Christmas food, and his confirmation that early Filipinos in Mexico
were instrumental in developing the now-famous tequila.
course, we also have chocolate for Noche Buena.
Ours is an Aztec drink; the cocoa bean was their
currency, and when they wanted to treat their
guests, they would make a chocolate drink.
What other holidays do Mexicans hold
closest to your hearts? What food is
typically prepared on this occasion?
Dia de los Muertos
—we bring food and flowers
to the cemeteries, similar to the way you do [for
Undas]. We bake a special bread that has dried
fruits inside and sugar on top
—pan de muerto
(“bread of the dead”). We also have tamales and
mole.
What characterizes Mexican food?
It tends to be more salty, more spicy, and has
more citrus nuances, [and] it is very rich in
chilli peppers. Mexico has 31 states and each
has its own traditional food items. Each state has
a different mole
—some are red, brown, black,
or yellow. Our dishes have basic staples like
corn, tortillas, cacao, chilli peppers, nuts, and
beautiful vegetables like tomatoes and beans.
From which states of Mexico are your
favorite dishes?
The Yucatán has beautiful food that has a Mayan
influence. The state of Puebla has wonderful
chocolate moles and the state of Oaxaca also has
a lot of fantastic food. I would be dishonest if I
tell you that I prefer this one or that one, but I
do think these areas have very special dishes.
You must travel through Mexico to taste our
different flavors.
Please help settle the debate: corn tortillas
or flour tortillas?
The typical tortilla is corn, which is a basic
staple. However, in the northern states of
Mexico, flour tortillas are the basic staple. Corn
tortillas are all different colors
—you can get
yellow tortillas, blue tortillas, purple, green...
Which essential ingredient in Mexican
cuisine is not available in Manila but
should be?
The funny thing is that a lot of products in
Mexican food, you already have here: tomatoes,
corn, cacao, chayote, pasote, camote. It’s amazing
how many products came from Mexico
—you kept
them, but the way you cook your food also has a
lot of influences from Asia.
What is your favorite Mexican expression
regarding food or eating?
Before we start a meal, we say “¡Buen
provecho!”
When you have a cold, you take lemon
for vitamin C and tequila to tender the pain.
They say, “If tequila doesn’t cure you, at least
it will make you forget that you’re sick.” The
grandmothers would always give us tequila to
soothe away colds, so we were very young when
we started drinking it.
There’s another saying for mezcal: “Para todo
mal, mezcal. Para todo bien, también.” (“For
every ill, mezcal. For every good as well.”)
Where do you eat if you are craving
Mexican food in the Philippines?
We end up eating at home because there are
few very truly Mexican restaurants that bring
the Mexican taste. There are some [later citing
Órale! in Fort Bonifacio and A’Toda Madre in
Makati], but we still have yet to look into one
that will bring the delicacies of Mexico here.
Which Filipino food reminds you of
Mexico and which Mexican food do you
think may have Philippine origins?
The 250-year link between Mexico and the
Philippines involved a lot of influence on
language. Thirty percent of Tagalog is Spanish
and nine percent comes from Nahuatl, the Aztec
language. A lot of the food eaten here comes
from Mexico and they continue to have the
Nahuatl name
—camote, sayote, achuete, chico.
A lot of what you eat, like singkamas (jicama)
and pasote (epazote), are products of Mexico
that you’ve incorporated into the food of the
Philippines.
Which do you prefer: tequila or mezcal?
I happen to come from the state of Jalisco, and
tequila originally comes from the city of Tequila
in Jalisco. I also come from a tequila-producing
family so I grew up drinking it instead of mezcal.
I think the best tequila or the best mezcal is the
one that you like the best.
Both tequila and mezcal have “Denomination
of Origin”: if they don’t come from Mexico,
they’re not tequila or mezcal. Tequila is only
produced in five states, so if it doesn’t come
from those states, it is not tequila. It also must
come from blue agave (cactus) and if it’s not
100% blue agave, it is not tequila.
Mezcal comes from the green agave. There’s a
myth that says tequila has a worm in it [but] the
one that has the worm is mezcal. It has a smoky
taste because the production of mezcal is by
smoking the heart of the green cactus.
There is an anecdote that Filipinos in
Mexico, via the Manila-Acapulco Galleon
Trade, helped discover tequila
—is there
any historical truth to this?
There is an important truth. [To make tequila]
you take the blue agave cactus and peel the
leaves off, then the heart is pressed and the
liquid is distilled. The distillation process of
tequila was learned from the way Filipinos
distilled your coconut drink (lambanog). This
distillation was learned by the Mexicans and
adapted to the tequila.
Which cultural traits do you feel Mexicans
and Filipinos distinctly have in common?
I think the most important [shared] trait is
the concept of family and of how we treat our
families
—our mothers and grandmothers, the
lolas and the lolos, the titas and the titos. So,
when we’re here, the warmth of the family is felt,
just like it is in Mexico.
What dish would you recommend a
visitor to Mexico should try? And which
Filipino dish would you encourage your
compatriots to try here?
In Mexico, I always say to try the chicken
or turkey en mole [and] different tacos and
quesadillas. But I will also encourage them to
try a very special dish from the state of Puebla
called chiles en nogada. It’s a long green spicy
pepper stuffed with chicken, beef, cheese
or fish, and then cooked in a nut sauce with
pomegranate seeds.
If [Mexicans] want to try a typical Filipino
dish, I always suggest kare-kare because I think
it is the closest to a mole. I also tell them, “If
you eat pork, try lechon.” sR
Which Christmas traditions in the
Philippines remind you of the holidays in
Mexico?
The concept of Misa de Gallo is very important
in Mexico. It’s a beautiful mass with beautiful
caroling and singing to welcome the birth of
Jesus Christ.
What food is typically prepared for
Christmas in Mexican homes?
We have a ponche, which is a very traditional
drink [following page]. Then, of course, we eat
beautiful food like tamales [filled with] chicken,
pork or beef, or if they’re sweet, raisins or dried
fruits. We also have chicken or turkey en mole.
It is cooked in a chocolate sauce that has seven
different chillies and seven different nuts. Of
One particularly lovely Christmas custom in Mexico is the nine-day celebration
called Las Posadas (Spanish for “inns”),
during which local residents recreate
the Holy Family’s search for shelter.
“Each family has a posada one night
and they take turns [with] a different
posada ever y night [until] it ends with
the Misa de Gallo on Noche Buena,”
explains Ambassador Camarena. “A
group of people lights candles and goes
around singing with their candles. They
go from door to door asking for a place
to stay and they either carr y [statues
of] the Virgin Mar y, Joseph, and the
Baby Jesus, or they dress up like them.
Finally, at the last moment, a door opens
and they are let in.”
After wards, celebrants enjoy mugs of
hot ponche Navideño (Christmas punch),
a traditional, fruity beverage spiked with
rum, brandy, or tequila. In addition to
piloncillo (whole unrefined cane sugar),
an essential ingredient of ponche is
tejocote, an indigenous, crabapple-like
fruit grown in the Mexican highlands.
However, because tejocotes are not
widely exported, apples are commonly
substituted.
sansRival 54 December 2015
Proust Questionnaire
Cocina Peruvia
Offers the Exotic Yet Familiar
By Cyrene de la Rosa
In recent years, Peruvian cuisine has surged
into the limelight, thanks largely to its diverse,
multicultural flavors and rich selection of ingre-
dients. Its reputation was further enhanced when
the Lima-based restaurant Central garnered the
#5 spot in this year’s “The World’s 50 Best
Restaurants Awards” held last June in London.
Prior to 2011, no Peruvian restaurants were
included on “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants”
list, which is a well-respected compilation of
restaurants sponsored by San Pellegrino and
Acqua Panna. Now, there are a total of three,
making the country that is best-known for
archaeological landmarks, like the ancient Incan
city of Machu Picchu, into a popular culinary
destination as well.
Historically, Peruvian cuisine is said to
have been influenced by the country’s varied
geography and its history of European, Asian
and West African immigration. Its popular
dishes range from ceviches and potato-based
dishes called causa, to a variety of sauces
—
many of which incorporate native Peruvian
peppers like the aji amarillo
—and the hipsters’
favorite grain quinoa. For the longest time,
Manila associated this South American cuisine
only with the popular peri-peri chicken, but
thanks to the influx of a handful of new Peruvian
restaurants, that is about to change.
Earlier this year, Cocina Peruvia opened
in Bonifacio Global City, under Mother Spice
Food Corporation
—the same group which
also owns Slappy Cakes, Coca, and Mango
Tree. SansRival sat down with its executive
chef consultant, Chef Him Uy de Baron, and
discussed what the new restaurant is all about.
According to Chef Him, Cocina Peruvia was
the brainchild of Eric and Emelda Teng, co-
owners of Mother Spice, who got into the cuisine
after dining at Lima, a Peruvian restaurant in
London and one of the top dining destinations
in the UK. The couple thought it was a cuisine
that Filipinos would like, as Peruvian food is
among the top emerging cuisines of the world
and its flavors are somewhat familiar due to
shared influences from the Japanese, Chinese,
and Spanish.
Cocina Peruvia is positioned as a casual
restaurant serving home-style dishes that are
commonly found in the street stalls and everyday
dining tables of Peru. Aside from striving to keep
it authentic, Eric and Emelda also wanted to pro-
vide a nice and easy vibe that customers would
like and a place where families and groups could
share meals and enjoy each other’s company.
Chef Him pointed out that although we
have a lot of shared influences, our approach
in reflecting it in our cuisine is very different.
The availability of ingredients also has a lot
to do with it: Peru has one of the most diverse
backyards in the world, including the Amazon,
which makes the variety of their produce even
more amazing.
We also differ in how we fuse outside
influences with our own heritage and traditions.
Here in the Philippines, we mostly keep the
cuisines intact with minor changes, so our
Spanish, Japanese, and Chinese-inspired dishes
look almost the same as their counterparts in
their own homeland. But Peruvians seem to have
fused these culinary influences into their way of
cooking. Wok stir-frying is a common technique
that has been adapted, as well as the way
seafood and raw fish are infused with Peruvians’
love of chillies and citrus. They have melded the
borrowed ways with their own to come up with a
cuisine that is distinctly unique to Peru.
Cocina Peruvia has gone with using flavor
profiles that they themselves liked and have
adapted to local tastes while making sure
not to stray too far from its origins. Current
bestsellers include anticuchos (skewers of
grilled meat), lomo saltado (beef tenderloin with
fried potatoes), a Peruvian-style adobo, and a
corn panna cotta dessert from pastry chef Miko
Aspiras. Those who have not yet experienced
Peruvian food are encouraged to try this cuisine
described “as exotic yet at the same time
familiar.” sR
Cocina Peruvia is located at G/F Bonifacio
One Technology Tower, Rizal Drive corner 31st
Street, Fort Bonifacio, Taguig City.
Anticuchos de Pollo
Courtesy of Chef Him Uy de Baron
Ingredients
For the chicken
320 grams chicken fillet diced into 1½-inch
cubes
3 tablespoons olive oil
¼ teaspoon cumin
½ teaspoon paprika
Salt and pepper to taste
For the chimichurri
¼ cup mint
¼ cup parsley
½ cup cilantro
Juice of 1 lemon
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
¼ cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic
1 tablespoon dried chili flakes
Procedure
Combine all chicken ingredients in a bowl
and marinate for at least 30 minutes to 2
hours.
Combine all chimichurri ingredients in a
food processor and blitz. Season to taste
with salt.
Soak 4 bamboo sticks in water for at
least 20 minutes. Skewer chicken pieces
with the sticks and reser ve the leftover
marinade. Preheat a grill and grill the
anticuchos over low heat for about 3
minutes per side. Baste the chicken with
oil from the marinade with ever y turn.
Ser ve the anticuchos with chimichurri.
PHOTO BY LEXIS LISAMA
PHOTOS COURTESY OF COCINA PERUVIA
6 December 2015 sansRival 7
Sriracha may be a “thing” these days as more
and more people reach for that rooster logo-ed
bottle from Thailand, but chilli has long been a
part of Filipino cuisine. In fact, Ponchit Ponce
Enrile, one of the administrators of Chilliheads
Philippines, says research has shown that it
was introduced via India by the Portuguese
through the spice trade route even before
the Spanish occupation here. “According to
taxonomist Danilo Tiu, it is universally used in
the Philippines [and] that all tribes and races
in the country have their word for this spice.
Examples would be the Bilaan tribe’s katumbal,
Bicol’s pasitis, rimo-rimo, and sanggariya. It is
silit in Ilokano, lara in Kapampangan, kulikot in
Cebuano, and ugto-ugto in Ilonggo.”
He adds that while Bicolanos have a
reputation for eating hot dishes such as gising-
gising or Bicol Express, almost all dining tables
in the Philippines have a bottle of sawsawan
that ultimately contains a few pieces of chilli.
The Negrenses are famous for their sinamak —a
piquant mixture of vinegar with chillies, ginger,
garlic, and lemongrass, while the Tausugs have
their palapa hot paste made with lots of labuyo,
ginger, and sakurab (a kind of spring onion).
“Even our instant noodles have gone the spicy
route. If you go to all 200 branches of fast-food
chain Mang Inasal, you get at least one chilli
pod to crush with toyo and calamansi per order
of chicken,” he notes.
Ponchit’s own affinity for heat actually has
a fast-food connection: He has been an avid
gardener since he was a 14-year-old high school
student. “My mentors gave me suggestions on
herbs and spices to grow. At that time, many
did not appreciate herbs such as basil, but they
liked chilli, as it was a mainstay on the dining
table for many fried and barbecued dishes. So,
I continued to cultivate these and developed my
taste for various types of chillies,” he recounts
fondly. “Besides, when I am eating out on a
small budget, if I add chillies, the food seems to
last longer!”
Silly over Sili
His passion for chillies is shared by other avid
gardeners and those who like to turn up the
heat, and led to the formation of a group called
Chilliheads Philippines, or
Chp. “Before Chp
was formed, all of us thought we were alone in
the Philippines doing this stuff. We would join
groups abroad, but a college guy by the name of
Jay de Leon put up a group in the Philippines. I
was the seventh invited to join,” he recalls. “In
the beginning, we would go to Facebook groups
from the
uSa and Europe and ‘like’ their posts,
hoping they would share seeds.”
Within eight months, the group had grown to
200 members. “Everybody grew different super
hots,” he says. Ponchit then took the initiative
to import and sell seeds at a minimal price to
members; after just two months, the group’s
membership reached one thousand.
In October 2014, the Chilliheads held their
first chilli festival in a small restaurant parking
lot in Quezon City. About 300 people gathered
to exchange ideas and hold a hot sauce contest.
The field of 20 entries was a good and happy
start, according to Ponchit. Agriculture guru
Zac Sarian took notice and featured the group in
Agriculture Magazine. “From there, our member -
ship grew to about 3,500 at this time. We had
our second chilli fest this past summer, attended
by 600 Chilliheads, and our hot sauce contest
had 200 entries. The next one will be bigger, and
will be held at the Quezon Memorial Circle.”
Heat Index
Ponchit explains that the heat of a chilli is
measured in Scoville Heat Units (
Shu). “This
is the number that denotes how many parts
of water one has to put on a gram of dry chilli
powder for the heat not to be discernible. “If a
gram of labuyo takes 60,000 grams of water for
the heat to be non-discernible, then the SHU is
60,000. The
Shu is no longer measured through
human judgment, because different people have
different taste sensitivity. They are measured
by a few laboratories in the
uS that have the
capability. The hottest chilli today is the
Carolina Reaper that packs 2.2 million
Shu.”
He also shares that about 100 or so varieties
of chillies are grown in the country as a hobby
and are mostly what we call “super hots”
(300,000
Shu and above). Among the local
varieties is labuyo (30,000 to 60,000
Shu),
which was introduced by the Portuguese
centuries ago and grew wild in this country,
hence its name derived from the word laboy
meaning “wild.” There is also the siling haba
used in sinigang and the famous Bicol Express,
which is 1,000 to 10,000
Shu. The Marusot
(also called demonyo or diablo) is closely related
to the Indian Bhut Jolokia and packs heat at
100,000 to 400,000
Shu.
Pleasure in Pain
Ponchit gives even more scientific explanations
about his favorite produce. “The active
ingredient in chilli is capsaicin. When it touches
any part of your body, the brain receives a
message that there is pain on that part of the
body.” There is no actual burning
—just a
sensation or perception, he adds. “That is why,
even if you have successfully washed off the
chilli, the sensation is still there
—the message
has already been sent to your brain.”
The body counteracts the feeling of burning
or pain by releasing endorphins, or “happy
hormones,” which are the same ones released
when you exert effort during strenuous activity.
“That is why chilli eaters say they experience a
‘high’ of sorts. This is good because the release
of endorphins and being happy makes one
healthier,” he muses.
For those who find the pain from skin contact
too “50 Shades of Grey”-ish, he suggests gently
washing off the chilli with soap and water.
To counteract burning in the mouth, drink
mammal’s milk containing casein, a fat-loving
substance that essentially has an effect on
capsaicin like that of soap on grease.
Take the Chilli Challenge
Those who want to join Chilliheads Philippines
are more than welcome, Ponchit says. “It is
a very loose group; there are no officials and
no president. We do not discriminate; those
who grow, cook, eat
—and even those who hate
chillies
—
can attend the events.”
A chilli meet is held every other Sunday at the
Green Daisy restaurant on Maginhawa Street in
up Village. There are seed swaps and chilli- and
hot-food tastings, as well as other stuff for sale
such as seeds, plants, sauces, fertilizers, and
other growing supplies.
The group is open to all enthusiasts, but
there is an initiation rite for those who wish to
become a member of the exclusive Labuyo 100
circle: one has to eat 100 labuyo pods in 10
minutes. “Many can actually do this in three
minutes!” he reveals. If you think you are up to
the challenge, or simply want to hang out with
a group of hotheads, send a request to be added
to the Chilliheads Facebook page and check for
announcements on upcoming events. sR
When capsaicin, the active ingredient
in chilli, touches any part of your
body, the brain receives a burning
sensation. The body counteracts by
releasing endorphins, the happy
hormones, a high of sorts
that is good for health.
Some
Like It
Hot!
A pepper-promoting Chillihead
is spreading labuyo love
By Maan D’Asis Pamaran
PHOTO BY PONCHIT PONCE ENRILE
sansRival 98 December 2015
Brown Rice, Shallot and Rosemary Loaves
Adapted by Gretchen Consunji-Lim from a recipe by Peter Reinhart
Yields 2 (9 × 5) loaves
Ingredients
6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons muscovado
1 teaspoon instant yeast
1 tablespoon coarse sea salt
1¾ cups water
½ cup milk
1 cup cooked brown rice
¼ cup fried shallots
1½ teaspoons finely chopped fresh
rosemar y or scant ½ teaspoon dried
rosemar y
Flour for dusting the counter
Procedure
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
a paddle attachment, combine the flour,
muscovado, yeast, salt, water, and milk.
Mix on low speed for 3 minutes until a
shaggy mass forms. Let the dough rest
for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile switch to the dough
hook attachment. Add the brown rice,
shallots, and rosemar y to the bowl. Turn
the mixer up to medium low and knead
for 3 to 4 minutes until a soft dough
forms. It will be sticky.
Turn the dough out onto a ver y lightly
floured counter. Shape into a ball by
gathering the edges of the dough to the
center, pinching them together to close.
Turn the dough into a lightly oiled bowl,
pinched side down. Cover the bowl with
plastic wrap and put in the refrigerator
overnight.
The next day, take the dough out
of the refrigerator and turn out onto a
lightly floured counter. Let the dough
rest for 30 minutes.
Divide the dough in two and shape
each half into a ball, handling the dough
no more than needed. Take one ball and
pat out into a rectangle, keeping the
length to 9 inches. Roll up the dough,
jellyroll style, sealing the edges against
the counter. Transfer to a lightly greased
baking pan, seam side down, and cover
the pan with a kitchen towel. Repeat
with the second dough ball.
Let the shaped dough rise until
double in size, 1 to 2 hours depending
on the temperature of the room. Bake
in a preheated oven at 350°F for 50
minutes, or until the loaves are golden
brown in color and sound hollow when
thumped on the bottom.
Notes
To test that your yeast is active,
proof half a teaspoon in some warm
water mixed with sugar. It is active if
bubbles appear after 5 to 10 minutes.
On ver y warm days, use cold water
and milk to keep the temperature of
your dough cool so it does not rise too
quickly during kneading. The dough will
go into the refrigerator overnight where
yeast activity, albeit slowed down, will
continue.
A Stellar Loaf of Bread
by Gretchen Consunji-Lim as told to La Gordita
Using brown rice and shallots is part of the move
to put local produce into our products. From
the super scant history I know of Philippine
breads, I think we have historically been using
mostly just flour, yeast, and sugar through the
years
—unlike the Vietnamese, who supposedly
use rice in their banh mi buns, and Latin
Americans, who use cassava [and other flours].
I also thought that maybe since our flour isn’t of
the same quality as one would find in a wheat-
producing country, perhaps using something
local to add to the flour might give the bread
something different in terms of taste and even
nutrition.
I didn’t think to use rice at once, and my
first tests using local produce in bread, apart
from Pangasinan salt and muscovado, were
with Palawan honey paired with oatmeal. But
that recipe was sourdough-based, and I’m still
getting to a point where I can make it in volume
consistently well. I also did first tests on other
stuff, like ube (purple yam), kamote (sweet
potato), kalabasa (squash), and local corn;
hopefully, I can roll those out eventually when
I can bake them consistently well, too. So, as I
haven’t yet rolled out that product, I had to think
of something else.
Then, I turned to rice. I had seen it in a bread
recipe over 15 years ago, but it didn’t catch my
fancy then. And I remembered a recipe from
one of my favorite bread bakers, Peter Reinhart:
a wild rice and onion loaf. So, I based my brown
rice recipe on that, tweaking it to use brown
rice [from Cotabato] and Ilocos shallots
—two
ingredients we had in our inventory in Sérye
Café
—and formed them into boules instead of
panning them into rectangular loaf pans. When
we had people taste-test our loaf, it was well
liked across age and class groups.
The idea of using a stencil [on the bread]
came about when I was asked to do bread for
a wedding anniversary with a Game of Thrones
theme. Their requirement was big, hearth-
type loaves. Since I live under a rock with no
television, I had no idea what Game of Thrones
was, and so I did some research. That got me
hooked and I thought to incorporate something
like a crest, if [the couple] had one, to make the
breads look a bit more royal in a medieval way
—
rustic looking and not too polished.
This was for the wedding anniversary of
Tessa and Dennis Valdes, and sure enough, they
did have a “V” crest. If you browse through
the pictures of Manilabake’s Facebook page,
you’ll see a loaf with the crest. You’ll also
see “direwolf” bread, which will only mean
something to you if you have followed the
television series. I don’t, and in fact, that clip
of someone giving another person a direwolf-
shaped bread is the only part of Game of Thrones
that I’ve ever seen. I got hooked and suggested
making that bread as well, so that the breads
would really be on-theme.
In order not to waste all of our research and
the trial-and-error with stenciling (I’m very
lucky to have staff who are good with crafting
and are always up to a challenge), we began
using it on our brown rice loaves, with our sun-
star logo as the stencil. sR
For inquiries, contact Manilabake at
998-271-8109.
A person cannot live on bread alone—unless the loaf in question
is the delightful Brown Rice, Shallot, and Rosemary Boules from
Manilabake. In her own words, founder and artisan baker Gretchen
Consunji-Lim describes how she incorporated local ingredients
into these distinctive loaves and reveals the television show that
inspired their starry motif. She also shares a bake-at-home version of
Manilabake’s recipe—perfect for your Christmas table.
sansRival 11
La Gordita Bakes
10 December 2015

Slide | 64
From the Middle East
to Ireland on a Silk Road
Chef Abraham Phelan
shares his culinary journey
from a fruit-farming village
in Jerusalem to a historic
castle in Dublin
The Chester Beatty Library, located at the
Dublin Castle in Dublin, Ireland, is a must-see
for visitors doing a European tour. Undoubtedly
the premier museum in the country and one of
the best in the whole of Europe, it is a showcase
of the great artistic treasures of the world, as
it houses the collections of mining magnate
Sir Alfred Chester Beatty, including miniature
paintings, drawings, rare books, and decorative
arts from the Middle East, Asia, North Africa,
and Europe. In addition, it stands on the
grounds of historic Dublin Castle, which served
as the seat of government in Ireland from 1171
to 1922.
These days, people who visit the Chester
Beatty Library go there not only to see Egyptian
papyrus texts, European Medieval and
Renaissance manuscripts, and other treasures
within the museum, but also to dine at The
Silk Road Café, which has become the go-to
place in Dublin for great Middle Eastern and
Mediterranean cuisines.
Heading the kitchen is owner and chef
Abraham Phelan, a Palestinian who migrated
to Ireland and opened The Silk Road Café 15
years ago. Sometimes, when he looks around
the restaurant, it still feels surreal how packed
and popular it is now, considering the fact
that when he first arrived in Dublin, nobody
knew what falafel and hummus were. Now,
they are sold in supermarkets and food stores,
and quite a number of other Middle Eastern
cafés and restaurants have opened around
Dublin. He feels good about having a hand in
introducing and popularizing Middle Eastern
and Mediterranean food in the city that he now
calls home.
Born in the hills of Jerusalem, in a little
fruit-farming village called Beit Surik, Chef
Abraham was raised in a family that grew plums,
figs, almonds, olives, and grapes. His mother
was busy cooking every day, since she had 11
children, and Chef Abraham, who has always
been interested in cooking, would help her make
jams, stuff vine leaves, and prepare dinner for
the family. He later moved to Crete, Greece, and
opened his first restaurant, Sorba the Greek, in
a little fishing village called Kartestellos, where
he had a daily supply of fresh fish and produce, and learned to cook Mediterranean dishes with some help from friends and their own moms. Thus, his expertise in Middle Eastern food was reinforced with good knowledge of
Mediterranean dishes.
He met an Irish lady named Caroline in Crete
in the 1980s and fell in love with her, and his
life was never the same again. They traveled
around Europe one winter season and decided
to visit Caroline’s family in Dublin, Ireland, for
a few days. Those few days turned into 30 years
and produced six wonderful children. And so,
Dublin became Chef Abraham’s home.
Although there was a bad recession when
the couple arrived in the country, he got over
the hump and was able to open The Silk Road
Café at the Chester Beatty Library. The number
of diners in his café grew with the increase in
visitors to the museum, and soon he was doing
catering work as well. Then, the idea of putting
up a cooking school came.
Looking for a suitable place, Chef Abraham
ended up purchasing another restaurant
called Little Jerusalem, where he specializes
in Palestinian and Lebanese food. There, he
started organizing a few cookery classes, but
again, the venue was too small to accommodate
regular classes. He finally found a place not
too far from the Dublin city center and put up
The Silk Road Kitchen Cookery School, where
he personally handles two-hour short courses
on Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cooking.
“Our first class in August 2014 was a little
nerve-wracking because we didn’t know what to
expect from each other, but it went well and the
students loved it,” says Chef Abraham, who is
now looking for other teachers so that the school
can offer more courses.
As a chef, restaurateur, caterer, and owner
and main teacher of his cooking school, Chef
Abraham is most proud of the fact that he was
instrumental in introducing and popularizing
Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines
in Ireland. Two thumbs up for Chef Abraham
Phelan! sR
PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE SILK ROAD KITCHEN
By Dolly Dy-Zulueta
Recipes courtesy of
Chef Abraham Phelan
sansRival 1312 December 2015

Slide | 65
Hummus
A common item on a mezze platter,
this creamy dip of mashed chickpeas
traces its roots to Egypt and is one of
the most well-known Middle Eastern
dishes in the world.
In a food processor, combine
240 grams cooked chickpeas,
4 tablespoons tahini (sesame
seed paste), juice of ½ lemon, 1½
tablespoons olive oil, 2 garlic cloves,
½ teaspoon salt, and 7 tablespoons
water and blend until it has a slightly
runny consistency. Add ½ teaspoon
cumin if desired. For a thinner
hummus, add a bit of water; and if
you would like it spicier, add a bit of
ground chilli.
Kofta
with Tahini Sauce
A type of meatloaf made with minced
lamb and a mix of spices and fresh
herbs, kofta is popular in countries
such as Pakistan, Lebanon, Iran,
Morocco, and Jordan. Chef Abraham
Phelan of Dublin’s Silk Road Café
serves his kofta with a tahini sauce.
In a blender, combine ½ spring onion,
1 garlic clove, 1 teaspoon olive oil,
1
⁄8
teaspoon black pepper,
1
⁄8 teaspoon
nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon salt, and a
pinch each of fresh parsley, mint, and
coriander. Blend the spices and herbs
until they are well mixed, and then
combine the mixture with 150 grams
minced lamb in a separate bowl.
Grease a baking dish with olive oil
and fill with the kofta mixture. Cover
with aluminum foil and bake in a
180°C/355°F oven for 25 minutes.
Make a tahini sauce by crushing a
bit of fresh mint and 1 clove garlic,
then adding them to a bowl with salt,
juice of ½ lemon, and 3 tablespoons
tahini. Pour the sauce over the kofta
and return the dish to the oven (still
at 180°C) for 3 minutes.
Dry roast 2 tablespoons pine nuts
until they are golden, and sprinkle
over the kofta when it’s ready.
Mansaf
Less known than hummus and
falafel, this traditional Palestinian
dish is also the national dish of
Jordan and is commonly found
in the cuisines of Iraq, Syria, and
Saudi Arabia.
Cut 100 grams lamb into large
cubes and season with ¼ teaspoon
each of cardamom, ground nutmeg,
and ground cinnamon, and salt and
pepper to taste.
Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a
pot and brown the meat. Add 250
ml water and 1 bay leaf, and simmer
for approximately 40 minutes or
until the lamb is tender. Remove the
meat from the stock, making sure to
reserve the stock for the sauce.
Add 3 tablespoons Greek yoghurt
to a pan and stir until smooth. Add
enough lamb stock to the yoghurt
to make it thin—it should have the
consistency of cream. Add the cooked
meat to the sauce and cook for
approximately 20 minutes.
To serve, place freshly cooked rice
on a large plate and arrange the lamb
pieces around it. Pour the yoghurt
sauce over the rice and garnish with
toasted cashews and pine nuts, and
chopped fresh parsley, mint, and
coriander.
Tabbouleh
Another popular item on a Middle
Eastern mezze platter, tabbouleh is an
Arabian vegetarian dish traditionally
made with bulgur wheat, although
this ingredient can be substituted
with couscous without sacrificing any
of its wonderful flavor.
Mix 150 grams bulgur wheat or
maftoul (Palestinian couscous) and 12
tablespoons boiling water in a bowl
and set aside for 30 to 45 minutes
or until al dente. Add 2 tablespoons
olive oil and ¼ teaspoon salt, and mix
well.
Finely chop 1 large tomato, ¼
cucumber, 1 medium red onion,
2 spring onions, ¼ lemon, and a
handful each of fresh mint and
parsley. Add juice from remaining
¾ lemon and mix well. Combine the
finely chopped vegetables with the
bulgur wheat.
Tip: You can use 150 grams
couscous instead of bulgur wheat.
Add 6 tablespoons of cold water and
set aside for 30 minutes.
Falafel
A traditional Middle Eastern food,
these deep-fried balls of spiced
ground chickpeas can be eaten alone,
as part of a mezze (appetizer platter),
served in pita pockets, or wrapped in
a flatbread called lafa.
Soak 200 grams chickpeas overnight.
When ready to use, drain the
chickpeas and blend them in a food
processor. Finely chop a handful each
of fresh parsley, coriander, and dill,
and add them to the chickpeas, along
with 3 crushed garlic cloves, 1 finely
chopped spring onion, 2½ teaspoons
ground cumin, and ¼ teaspoon each
of ground coriander, ground chilli,
cinnamon, and nutmeg. Finally, add
½ teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon
baking powder, and blend again until
the whole mixture reaches a fine
consistency. Add about 7 tablespoons
water if the mixture is too thick.
For extra spicy falafels, add finely
chopped green chillies.
Form the mixture into 8 small
balls. Sprinkle some sesame seeds
on each falafel and fry them in olive
oil until brown and crispy. Serve
with hummus and harissa (hot chilli
pepper paste).
sansRival 1514 December 2015
M’jaddara
A flavorful lentil and rice casserole,
this Lebanese, Arabic, and Indian
favorite sometimes makes use
of bulgur wheat instead of rice.
According to Chef Phelan, it is best
enjoyed spooned onto a plate and
topped with fried onion rings.
Ingredients
1 cup lentils, washed
2 cups water, divided
½ cup rice, washed
1½ teaspoons salt
¾ teaspoon pepper
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, sliced into rings
2 garlic cloves, crushed
¼ teaspoon curry powder
1½ teaspoons ground cumin
Procedure
Place lentils in a cooking pan and
cover with 1 cup water. Bring to a
boil, then lower the heat and simmer
for 15 to 20 minutes or until all of
the water is absorbed. Add rice, salt,
pepper, and 1 cup water. Stir gently
and bring to a boil, then lower the
heat and let it simmer.
Heat olive oil in a frying pan and
add onion rings, garlic, curry powder,
and cumin. Fry until golden. By this
stage, the water in the lentil and rice
mixture should be nearly absorbed.
Remove the onion rings and add the
hot oil to the rice and lentil mixture.
Stir gently, then leave it to continue
simmering until the liquid is totally
absorbed. Remove from the heat and
let it rest for a few minutes.
Spoon the m’jaddara onto plate
and top with fried onion rings.
Palestinian Chicken
Also known as M’sakhan, it is one of the most popular and
traditional Palestinian dishes. Usually prepared during the
olive oil-pressing season, the chicken is marinated in a variety
of spices, including sumac, which comes from the berries of
Rhus shrubs and adds a sour, lemony taste to the meat.
Ingredients
1 medium red onion, sliced
3 tablespoons sunflower oil
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
2 teaspoons sumac (or substitute with
lemon zest and a pinch of salt)
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon paprika
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
Juice of ½ lemon
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 chicken breast, cut into cubes
Procedure
In a bowl, add red onions, oil,
nutmeg, sumac, salt, cinnamon,
paprika, cumin, lemon juice, and
garlic. Mix well.
Place chicken cubes into a baking
dish and add seasoned onions.
Mix well. Cover the baking dish
with aluminum foil and place in a
180°C/355°F oven for 35 minutes.
Take the dish out and remove the foil,
then return the dish to the oven for
another 5 minutes.
Served with a warmed Lebanese
flatbread and pomegranate seeds.
Saffron Rice
This simple rice dish is best prepared
with Basmati rice, ghee (clarified
butter) and bay leaves. Saffron, the
most expensive spice in the world,
gives it a flavor like no other.
Ingredients
5 saffron strands (or substitute ¼
teaspoon ground turmeric)
2 tablespoons hot water
10 0 grams rice
10 0 ml water
¼ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons sunflower oil
Procedure
Place saffron and hot water in a bowl,
then stir and let stand for 10 minutes.
Wash the rice thoroughly with cold
water until the water runs clear. Place
the rice in a pot and add 10 0 ml water,
salt, sunflower oil, and the saffron.
Stir with a wooden spoon and bring
the rice to a boil. Lower the heat and
let it simmer for 10 minutes. Remove
the pot from the heat and let it stand
for 5 minutes.
16 December 2015 sansRival 17
Baklava
Chef Abraham Phelan’s version of
this rich, sweet pastry is indulgence
in a small bite. Made of layers
of filo pastry filled with chopped
almonds and pistachio nuts and
held together with rose or orange
scented syrup, it’s baked in a
large tray and cut into square or
diamond shapes, as is the tradition.
Ingredients
10 layers of filo pastry cut into size
Melted ghee (clarified butter) for
brushing
10 grams walnuts
10 grams pistachios
15 grams almonds
10 grams ground almonds
15 grams sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon rose water
1 teaspoon ghee
Syrup (see below)
Chopped pistachios for decoration
Syrup
Combine 1 cup sugar, 1½ cups
water, 1 teaspoon rose or orange
blossom water, ½ teaspoon lemon
juice, and 2 cloves in a pot and
bring to a boil. Let it simmer for 30
minutes.
Procedure
Grease a baking tin. Place a sheet
of filo pastry in the tin and brush
it all over with ghee. Add another
sheet and repeat the same process
until you have five sheets evenly
stacked.
Add all the nuts, sugar,
cinnamon, rose water, and 1
teaspoon ghee to a food processor
and mix until desired consistency
(either coarse or fine). Spread the
nut mixture over the layers of filo
pastry. Place a sheet of filo on top
of the nut mixture and brush with
ghee. Add another sheet and repeat
the same process until you have
used five sheets. Cut into desired
shapes and bake in a 20 0°C/390°F
oven for approximately 20 minutes.
Take the baklava out of the oven
and pour syrup over the top, then
decorate with chopped pistachios.
Cinnamon and Date Cake
Ingredients
For the cake
225 ml boiling water
40 0 grams date paste
1 teaspoon baking soda
210 grams sifted flour
70 grams porridge oats (or oatmeal)
85 grams brown sugar
2½ teaspoons baking powder
5 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
½ teaspoon salt
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
75 ml vegetable oil
170 ml buttermilk
For the caramel topping
20 0 grams light brown sugar
113 grams butter
63 ml evaporated milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Procedure
Place boiling water and date paste in
a pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat
and simmer for 5 minutes. Add baking
soda and mix well, then set aside for
20 minutes to cool down.
In one bowl, mix flour, oats, brown
sugar, baking powder, cinnamon,
ginger, nutmeg and salt, and set
aside. In another bowl, blend eggs
and vanilla extract, then add oil and
buttermilk and mix well. Add the
liquid mixture to the dry ingredients
and mix. Add the date mixture and
combine well.
Grease and line a baking tray and
pour in the cake mixture. Bake the
cake in a preheated oven, starting
at 220°C/425°F and reducing to
180°C/355°F after 5 minutes. Bake
for an additional 25 to 30 minutes or
until a toothpick inserted in the center
comes out clean. Cool for 10 minutes
before removing the baking tray.
Combine all of the caramel topping
ingredients in a saucepan and cook
over medium heat for approximately
5 minutes, until the sugar and butter
have melted together. Cover the cake
with caramel topping.
This delightful cake is a
mildly flavored sweet treat
that features two ingredients
abundant in the Middle East.
It serves as a perfect ending
to a filling meal but is also
great when paired with coffee
for an afternoon snack.
18 December 2015 sansRival 19
Lechona Tolimense
Christmas in Colombia would not be complete without lechona, a slow-roasted
suckling pig stuffed with rice, peas and herbs, which originated in the Tolima
region and is traditionally served with corn flatbreads called arepas.
Ingredients
1 kilogram pork meat, cut into small
pieces
2 tablespoons ground nutmeg
2 tablespoons minced garlic, divided
in half
Seasoning blend (see below)
Salt and pepper to taste
1 kilogram pork belly
6 tablespoons lemon juice, divided
2 tablespoons cooking oil
½ cup chopped spring onions
6 cups cooked rice
1
2
⁄3 cups cooked green peas
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon thyme
1 teaspoon rosemary
1 bay leaf
2 cups water
2 tablespoons turmeric powder
2 cups pork broth
6 to 8 lemon wedges for garnish
Seasoning blend
Mix 2 tablespoons turmeric powder,
2 tablespoons garlic powder, 1
tablespoon ground cumin, and 1½
teaspoons ground black pepper.
Procedure
In a large bowl, combine pork meat,
nutmeg, 1 tablespoon minced garlic,
1 tablespoon of seasoning blend, and
salt and pepper to taste, and then
marinate in the refrigerator for at least
3 hours.
Preheat oven to 180°C/355°F.
Season the pork belly with salt and
3 tablespoons lemon juice, and set
aside.
Heat oil in a pan and lightly fry
spring onions, then set aside. In
a large bowl, combine cooked
rice, green peas, oregano, thyme,
rosemary, bay leaf, 1 tablespoon
minced garlic, 3 tablespoons of
seasoning blend and water, and mix
well. Cover the bottom of a shallow
baking pan with aluminum foil and
spread half of the rice mixture in an
even layer. Layer half of the marinated
pork meat on top of the rice, followed
by a layer of the remaining rice and a
layer of the remaining pork. Place the
seasoned pork belly on top, skin side
up.
Blend turmeric powder and pork
broth, and then pour into the pan.
Sprinkle 1 tablespoon lemon juice
over the pork belly skin, then cover
the pan with aluminum foil. Place in
the preheated oven and bake for 2½
hours.
Remove the pan from the oven
and uncover. Sprinkle remaining 2
tablespoons lemon juice over the pork
belly and return the pan, uncovered,
to the oven. Continue baking until
the skin is golden and crispy, and
the marinated pork meat is cooked
through. When done, remove the pan
from the oven and slice the pork belly
into 6 to 8 pieces.
To serve, spoon rice and pork
stuffing onto a plate and top with a
slice of pork belly and a lemon wedge.
Rabanadas
A sophisticated version of French toast, rabanadas (from the Spanish word
rebanada, meaning “slice”) is a traditional Christmas dessert in Portugal and its
former colony Brazil, where its popularity has spawned its own special kind of
bread known as pan de rabanada.
Ingredients
For the rabanadas
8 slices stale baguette, ¾-inch thick
2 cups milk
¼ cup sugar
2 tablespoons honey
1 cinnamon stick
Salt
3 eggs, whisked
Olive oil
For the port wine syrup
2 cups water
½ cup dry port wine
1 (2-inch) cinnamon stick
6 tablespoons honey
For the cinnamon-nutmeg sugar
Mix
1
⁄3 cup sugar with 2 teaspoons
cinnamon and 2 teaspoons ground
nutmeg.
Procedure
Arrange bread slices in a single layer
along the bottom of a shallow baking
dish. In a small sauce pan or pot,
combine milk, cinnamon stick, sugar,
honey, and a pinch of salt, and bring
to a boil. Let the mixture simmer for 1
to 2 minutes, then remove from heat
and set aside to cool. When cooled,
remove the cinnamon stick and pour
milk mixture over the sliced bread. Let
them soak for 20 to 30 minutes until
most of the liquid is absorbed.
Prepare the port wine syrup by
combining water, port wine, cinnamon
stick, and honey in a heavy sauce
pan over medium heat. Bring to a
slow boil, then reduce the heat and
continue to simmer for 10 minutes or
until syrup thickens and is reduced
by half. Remove from the stove
and set aside to cool down to room
temperature before serving.
Pour olive oil into a skillet or frying
pan until about an inch deep and heat
until it sizzles when a piece of bread
is dipped in the oil. Carefully dip both
sides of the milk-soaked bread in
whisked eggs and fry in the heated
oil until both sides are golden brown.
Transfer fried rabanada to a plate
lined with paper towels to soak up
excess oil. Meanwhile, mix together
sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg,
and generously sprinkle over each
rabanada. Serve with port wine syrup
on the side.
A Sweet and Savory Holiday
in South America
Thanks to their Spanish and Portuguese
colonial histories, the countries of South
America celebrate the Christmas season
with a delicious holiday buffet seasoned
with spices—from cinnamon to cumin—that
are shared with European, Middle Eastern,
and Asian cuisines.
sansRival 2120 December 2015

Slide | 66
ILLUSTRATION BY FREEPIK.COM
Happiness in Wellness
By Maan D’Asis Pamaran
Yoga and Barre3 instructor Tami Ledesma
breathes—and eats—easy with a positive flow of energy
Things were different before Tami Ledesma
found her way to yoga. “I was having major
stomach problems. At that time, I was taking
about five different medicines for it, but they
weren’t exactly curing me, so I decided to
take another route to healing.” She began with
nutrition counseling and Yin Yoga therapy
sessions at the Alternative Medicine department
at St. Luke’s. “Later on, feeling more confident
and aware of my body, I began a more dynamic
practice at Urban Ashram with their Hatha and
Vinyasa classes,” she shares.
“I’m not exaggerating when I say it changed
the course of my life,” Tami muses thoughtfully.
“I began to see health and wellness from a more
holistic point of view. Rather than see my body
as a mix of problem areas that needed to be
fixed, I learned to befriend my body as a whole
and give it the proper nourishment and nurturing
it needs to be healthy, not just in terms of what
I eat and how I exercise, but in the thoughts I
consume and the actions I do.”
Inner strength
“I used to think my life was limited by my
stomach problems, I used to believe I was
weak. But eating well and practicing yoga have
made me supple and strong, and that makes me
brave,” she explains. That strength has given
her the freedom to travel, she says. “I’ve always
loved taking trips with my family, but yoga has
made me more adventurous, more willing to try
and learn new things.”
She counts Bali, Hawaii, and Florence as her
favorite places in the world. “Bali is a yogi’s,
surfer’s, and artist’s dream! It’s a magical mix
of art and tradition, in harmony with new and
foreign influences, that makes it so vibrant.”
In Hawaii, there’s a term
—hanai—which
means “taking in as family,” which Tami values.
“In my many trips there, I’ve always been
taken in as family. The culture is so loving, so
embracing, so welcoming.”
Florence, however, is her happy place. “It’s
where I go when I’m sad, where the feeling of a
savasana [yoga relaxation pose] at the end of a
class takes me. I took a short art course during
the beautiful season where summer turns into
fall, and it was there where I experienced il
dolce far niente
—the sweetness of doing nothing.
I had nothing to worry about and everything to
be grateful for.”
Living healthy and loving yourself
Back home in the Philippines, yoga helps her
to deal with daily stresses. “Just getting to the
studio on time, sitting helpless in traffic, stresses
me out. But when I get [there], when I sit on my
mat, when I begin my first few breaths, I can let
go. [My worries and anxieties] will still be there
later on, but they can wait another hour.”
She encourages others to get into the lifestyle
and, for those who are just starting out on their
own wellness journey, she advises, “When
you are starting out, it’s the best time for you
to explore your body, with all its limits and
capabilities, and try to love it as it is and for what
it can become. Listen deeply to what your body
needs from you or can give you in every pose and
transition. Give yourself the time to love yourself
just as you are. Everything else will flow.”
Food for thoughts
“I definitely try to eat healthy by eating at
the right times, and eating whole foods. Some
important questions to ask are, ‘Can I imagine
my food alive? How far has it been processed
before getting to my plate?’ I’m no vegetarian,
but I try not to eat as much red meat as I used
to,” she smiles. “I can feel it in my body, and
even in my mind and heart, when I’ve been
eating things that aren’t very healthy. I feel slow
in spirit and heavy-hearted. That being said, I
won’t deny myself the comfort of chocolate cake
or chorizo every once in a while.”
A perfect meal, she says, would be a
balanced one. “It would be full of fresh and
local ingredients, but with global influences and
flavors. Caprese [tomato, mozzarella and basil
salad] is my favorite amuse-bouche, substituting
mozzarella with kesong puti. Lately, my boyfriend
and I have been mixing Middle Eastern cooking
with local ingredients.” A favorite is Turkish
lahmacun, which she loosely describes as a
deliciously spiced kebab baked on pita bread
and topped with pako and red onions, and a
squeeze of lemon or calamansi.
Tami shares that going to the market is a
new favorite activity. “Marketplace by Rustan’s
in Rockwell is our go-to. We recently had the
The Spices of Life
Through spice routes linking the ancient
civilizations of Europe, Africa, and Asia, a
variety of spices found their way into the
culinary traditions of the Middle East and,
eventually, Latin America. From cinnamon and
cumin to saffron and turmeric, they add zesty
flavors, appetizing aromas, and beautiful color
to many global dishes. And as Tami Ledesma
has discovered, mixing these essential Middle
Eastern seasonings with fresh and local
ingredients yields food that is as healthful as it
is flavorful.
According to Pliny the Elder, 12 ounces
of cinnamon cost the equivalent of 10
months’ wages in ancient Rome. Today, it is
often associated with baked goods and other
treats, and is one of the most important spices
in Mexican cuisine. Some studies, though
not conclusive, indicate that cinnamon may
help lower blood sugar in diabetics, reduce
inflammation, and have anti-oxidant and anti-
bacterial effects.
The earthy taste of cumin, used either
whole or ground, is characteristic of the masalas
of India, but it is also popular in Brazilian and
Burmese cookery and is an everyday seasoning
on Moroccan tables. In traditional medicine,
cumin has been used for digestive health and
may have anti-carcinogenic properties.
Harvested from a species of crocus flower,
saffron has been one of the most treasured and
expensive spices for millennia. These delicate
threads impart a subtle flavor and sunny hue,
particularly in global rice dishes like paellas,
risottos, and biryanis. The list of saffron’s health
benefits deserves an article of its own, but
they include treating asthma and insomnia;
and alleviating coughs, menstrual cramps, and
flatulence.
The mildly peppery flavor of turmeric is
often used to enhance other ingredients rather
than as a distinctive taste on its own. Like
saffron, turmeric has been used for over 4,500
years not only as a food ingredient, but also
as a clothing dye and in traditional medicine.
Today, it is touted as a “super-food” for its anti-
inflammatory, anti-oxidant, and anti-carcinogenic
properties, supported by recent research studies.
pleasure of visiting early and catching a crab
that was trying to run away! The fruits and
vegetables are fresh, the coconuts are young,
and the seafood is sometimes still alive. It’s
open early on weekends, so after the [farmers’]
market, we go there to round up missing
ingredients.”
Happy meals
Christmas is often a time to overindulge,
especially in a culture where food means family
and friendship. Instead of advising against
holiday treats, Tami reassures, “Happiness is a
key component of wellness. Nourish your spirit
and eat your favorite foods, but make time to
move your body, too. Even if you can’t go to the
studio or gym, you can always take a walk after
eating and mingle with everyone, or dance a
little longer and get your circulation going.”
Digestion is just as important as ingestion,
she quips. “We eat because we love food and
company. We exercise because we love our
bodies. If you gain a little weight over the
holidays, so what? It doesn’t mean that you
didn’t love your body. You nourished it with food;
you can nurture it with exercise, too.” sR
sansRival 2322 December 2015
The Rustan’s ShopperDO?A SOL

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? enzo lim DALANG RITA

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? ? SINTURIS SMASH

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?enzo lim
Tinto Inverno Sangrias
The essential elements of a classic sangria are simple: red wine and chunks of fresh
fruit punched up with brandy or orange liqueur, and sweetened with fruit juice or
simple syrup. This holiday, winterize the beloved summer beverage by infusing it
with warm spices like cardamom and cinnamon that evoke Christmas’ origins in
the Holy Land, or the flavor of seasonal fruits such as pears and pomegranates.
For a taste of the Philippines, spike the traditional red wine with Manille Liqueur de
Dalandan. While others dream of a white Christmas, turn your celebration into a
vibrant shade of red with these special holiday sangrias.
Sangria con Dalandan
Ingredients
2 apples cut into chunks
2 dalandan or navel oranges, unpeeled
and cut into chunks
1 (750ml) bottle red wine
½ cup brandy
¼ cup Manille Liqueur de Dalandan
Sugar to taste
1 to 2 cups sparkling pomegranate juice
Procedure
Combine all ingredients, except
pomegranate juice, in a large pitcher
and mix well. Chill for several hours or
ideally overnight. To serve, pour sangria
over ice in goblets or wine glasses up
to one-third full and top with sparkling
pomegranate juice.
Sangria Especiada
For the spiced simple syrup
2 whole star anise
2 cinnamon sticks, broken into pieces
1 cardamom pod, cracked
1 chunk peeled fresh ginger
1 cup brown sugar or muscovado
1 cup water
For the sangria
1 (750ml) bottle red wine
½ cup brandy
¼ cup orange liqueur
1
⁄3 cup spiced simple syrup
2 pears cut into chunks
2 oranges, unpeeled and cut into chunks
1 to 2 cups sparkling water
Procedure
To make the simple syrup, place star
anise, cinnamon, and cardamom in
a saucepan set over medium heat.
Toast the spices until fragrant—about
3 minutes. Add ginger, brown sugar
and water, and mix well. Simmer while
stirring occasionally until the sugar is
completely dissolved. Turn off the heat
and let the syrup steep for an hour
before straining out the spices. Store in
a jar or bottle in the refrigerator for up
to 2 weeks.
To blend the sangria, combine all
ingredients, except sparkling water, in
a large pitcher and stir well. Chill for
several hours or ideally overnight. To
serve, pour sangria over ice in goblets
or wine glasses up to one-third full and
top with sparkling water. Add more
simple syrup if desired.
Finding the
perfect red wine
for sangria
As the main ingredient in sangria,
the red wine you choose may
determine if it packs a punch or
falls flat. In general, medium-
bodied, dry and fruity wines
are your best bet, but for a bit
more guidance, here are a few
suggestions:
Look for varietals from Spain’s
Rioja region, such as Tempranillo
and Garnacha;
Try the soft fruitiness of a
Merlot from Chile or a slightly
more intense Malbec from
Argentina;
Feel free to stray from Spanish
viticulture and check out medium-
bodied wines from other countries
like California Zinfandel, Italian
Sangiovese, Australian Shiraz, or a
French Grenache.
These varietals and more are
available in the wine department
at Rustan’s Supermarkets and
Marketplace by Rustan’s.
In the Holiday Spirit
Add some Christmas cheer to your holiday gathering with cocktails
from the Philippines’ oldest distillery
Dalangrita
Salt
¾ oz Manille Liqueur de Dalandan
1½ oz lambanog
½ oz lime juice
½ oz simple syrup
Rim a rocks glass with salt. Combine
remaining ingredients in a cocktail shaker
and shake vigorously. Pour into the glass
and ser ve.
Sinturis Smash
By Enzo Lim
3 lemon wedges
5–8 mint leaves
1½ oz Manille Liqueur de Dalandan
½ oz dr y gin
Muddle the lemon wedges with mint
leaves in a shaker. Add the Manille Liqueur
de Dalandan and dr y gin, and shake with
ice. Pour contents into a rock glass.
Doña Sol
By Enzo Lim
¾ oz Manille Liqueur de Dalandan
¾ oz whisky
¾ oz sweet vermouth
¾ oz orange juice
Combine all ingredients in a cocktail
shaker with ice and strain into a Martini
glass. Garnish with a twist of lime.
After more than 160 years in the wine and liquor
industry, Destileria Limtuaco & Co., Inc., knows
a thing or two about spirits: they have created
some of the country’s most popular brands of
rum, tequila, vodka, brandy, and gin.
Now, on the heels of the successful launch in
early 2014 of Manille Liqueur de Calamansi
—
the first in a new line of all-natural fruit
liqueurs
—the Philippines’ oldest distillery
follows up with Manille Liqueur de Dalandan,
made from the essential oils of the zesty native
orange.
While it can be enjoyed as a straight shot,
Manille Liqueur de Dalandan also complements
other spirits, lending a subtly sweet citrus flavor
to favorite cocktails. In the hands of Enzo Lim,
mixologist and co-owner of New York City’s
popular Filipino restaurants Maharlika and
Jeepney, the delicious quality and versatility of
Destileria Limtuaco’s newest liqueur truly shine.
Mixologist Enzo Lim
prepares an original
cocktail.
sansRival 25
Grapevine
24 December 2015
Grapevine
A Gift That Keeps Giving
In the spirit of the holiday season, Rustan’s
Supermarkets is marking its 45th anniversary
with a commemorative wine, whose purchase
will provide for a child and his or her family
during this special time of year.
Make a wonderful addition to your
Christmas table with a bottle of Baron
Philippe de Rothschild Mouton
Cadet from Bordeaux, France,
specially packed for Rustan’s
Supermarkets in an anniversary
edition wooden box. With each
bottle, you can take part in a
meaningful opportunity to fully
realize the spirit of giving to
those who are truly in need.
Every purchase of Baron
Philippe de Rothschild Mouton Cadet
Bordeaux provides a basket of food for one
child’s family through MovEd (Molding
Optimism and Values through Education),
an organization that provides quality
pre-school education to more than 400
children in underserved communities across
Metro Manila and Bicol. MovEd also offers
supplementary workshops and nutritional
programs to promote valuable childhood
developmental care.
Give this gift for your loved ones to make
their Christmas, as well as another family’s
Christmas, even more special. This unique
initiative is available to shoppers at all
Rustan’s Supermarket and Marketplace by
Rustan’s stores until the end of December.
Tasting Notes
Baron Philippe de Rothschild Mouton
Cadet displays a deep red color
with a slightly purple tint. Scents
of blackberr y and black currant
develop into fragrances of coffee
and vanilla upon airing. At first taste,
it is intensely aromatic with elegant
tannins, while the mid-palate boasts
of fruity berr y flavors, and the lasting
note reveals hints of coconut and
coffee with a touch of smokiness.
61,545
It’s time for a new Christmas tradition—
now you can make your own cheese,
tofu, and butter with the whole family.
1. Tofu Making Kit
61,850
2. Cheese Making Refill Boxes
6750
3. Mozzarella Cheese Making Kit
61,650
4. Chevre Cheese Making Kit
61,650
5. Ricotta And Cottage Cheese Kit
61,650
6. Homemade Butter Kit
61,650
Roaring Brook Dairy, all-American makers of
gourmet kits for cooks and non-cooks alike, are
available exclusively at Rustan’s Supermarkets and
Marketplace by Rustan’s.
26 December 2015
Grapevine
Sweet
Sensations
Rustan’s Supermarkets and
Marketplace by Rustan’s
invite you to celebrate
the joys of Christmas with
exquisite cakes, pastries and
novelty confections that will
leave you caroling for more.
Call 869 7525 to order.
1. Pistachio Chocolate Tart
6799 pc
2. Brownies With Fondant 4’s
699 box
3. Gingerbread Man
639 pc
4. Salted Caramel Cake
6650 pc
5. Christmas Sugar Cookies
649 pc
6. Yule Log Cake
61,250 pc
Prices are subject to change without prior notice.
Product availability may var y per store. Comes in cake
boxes. Three to five days lead time.
2
1
3
6
5
4
1
2
3
4
5
1. Traditional Loaf Fruitcake
6330
2. Queso de Bola Cheesecake
6799 pc
3. Raspberr y Walnut Torte
6650 pc
4. Richly Topped Fruitcake
6485 pc
5. Food for the Gods 6’s
6265 box
Prices are subject to change without prior
notice. Product availability may var y per
store. Comes in cake boxes. Three to five
days lead time.

Slide | 67

40
Ige Ramos
Book Designer • Food Writer • Editorial Design Instructor • Cook • Traveller
15B Boardwalk, Bay Gardens, Metropolitan Park, Roxas Blvd., Pasay City, Philippines 1300
+63 0917 586 1963 | [email protected] | @bookchef | @igrams
[Editor-in Chief, Rustan’s Supermarket SansRival Magalogue]
Ige's Hats Business Card.indd 1 7/24/13 2:45 PM

Mr. Ige Ramos - Book Design for Food: From Plate to Print

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