Pattern making is an art

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1. Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one
or more curves of the human figure . Pattern making is a bridge function between design and production.
A sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which interprets the design in the form of the garment
components (Cooklin).

A pattern is flat while the body is not. The body has height, width and depth. With in this roughly
cy lindrical framework there are a series of secondary curves and bulges, which are of concern to the
pattern maker. Darts are the basis of all pattern making. They convert the flat piece of cloth into a three
dimensional form, which fits the bulges of the body.

A patternmaker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a two dimensional
fashion illustration. The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern making, fit and design
are based. The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits
the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward).

Methods of Pattern Making

Pattern making involves three methods-
 Drafting
 Draping
 Flat paper patternmaking

Drafting: It involves measurements derived from sizing sy stems or accurate measurements taken on a
person, dress or body form. Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease allowances are
marked on paper and construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern. Drafting is used to create
basic, foundation or design patterns.

Draping: It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric around a form, conforming to its
shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. This muslin is transferred to paper to be used as a final
pattern (Armstrong). Ease allowances for movement are added to make the garment comfortable to wear.
Advantage of draping is that the designer can see the overall design effect of the finished garment on the
body form before the garment piece is cut and sewn. However, it is more expensive and time consuming
than flat pattern making.

Flat Pattern Making: It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with comfort ease to fit a
person or body form. A sloper is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits
the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward). Five basic pattern pieces
are used for womens clothing. They include a snug-fitting bodice front and bodice back with darts and a
basic neckline, a sleeve and a fitted skirt front and back with darts. However, as fashion changes
frequently womens styles fluctuate frequently. These basic slopers are then manipulated to create
fashions.

2. Pattern Making
Pattern making is a highly skilled technique which calls for technical ability, and a
sensitivity to interpret a design with a practical understanding of garment construction.
For successful dress designing pattern making forms the fundamental step. This
function connects design to production by producing paper templates for all components
such as cloth, hemming, fusible etc. which have to be cut for completing a specific
garment.

Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric
to conform to one or more curves of the human figure. Pattern making is a bridge
function between design and production. A sketch can be turned into a garment via a
pattern which interprets the design in the form of the garment components. A pattern is
flat while the body is not. The body has height, width and depth. Within this roughly
cylindrical framework there are a series of secondary curves and bulges, which are of
concern to the pattern maker. Darts are the basis of all pattern making. They convert
the flat piece of cloth into a three dimensional form, which fits the bulges of the body.

A pattern maker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a
two dimensional fashion illustration. The basic pattern is the very foundation upon
which pattern making, fit and design are based. The basic pattern is the starting point
for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease
for movement and comfort.

Methods of Pattern Making
Pattern making involves three methods-
1. Drafting
2. Draping
3. Flat paper pattern making
01. Drafting: It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or accurate
measurements taken on a person, dress or body form. Measurements for chest, waist,
hip and so on, and ease allowances are marked on paper and construction lines are
drawn to complete the pattern. Drafting is used to create basic, foundation or design
patterns.

MEASUREMENTS

Bust – measure just under the arms around the fullest part of chest.

Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso.

3. High Hip – measure 6 inches [15.5 cm] below waist around the hips.

Back-waist length – measure from nape of neck to waist level

Shoulder length – measure shoulder from ball socket to side of neck.

Armhole depth – measure from nape of neck to under arm level.

Back width – measure from armhole to armhole across shoulder blades.

Neck – measure around base of neck.

Tools use for Drafting

A: Tape Measure
This is likely something you already have in your stash, because if you have been
making clothing you should have been measuring your body along the way! If not, pick
up a good quality fiberglass tape measure today so you can start your pattern making
off right with correct body measurements.

B: Seam Ripper
Like the tape measure, you probably have a seam ripper. You will use this in
patternmaking for taking out your basting stitches when you move from the muslin fitting
to the pattern drafting stage.

C: Fine Point Sharpie Marker
Muslin versions are always ugly because they are marked up, but you want to make
your markings with a permanent and fine point. I like these push-button fine point
sharpie pens as the cap always seems to get lost in my studio! These are quick and
easy to use.

D: Tracing Wheel
To take your markings from the muslin stage to the patternmaking stage, this tool will
pierce through the paper and leave behind marks to draft with a mechanical pencil.

E: Rotary Cutter
I like using my rotary cutter for the big broad strokes of cutting muslin. Make sure to use
a cutting mat beneath your item to protect the cutting surface of the table underneath!

F: Fabric Scissors
Sharp, high-quality scissors are used for all your fabric cutting in sewing and
patternmaking. These will shape the muslin down to the proper size after you have cut it

4. big and broad with the rotary cutter.

G: Tracing Paper
I personally do not use this, but many designers like it for leaving marks behind on their
muslins. I like a sharpie or tracing wheel, but try these sheets out and perhaps you will
love them! Many people do.

H: Scotch Tape
It is inevitable that you will need to tape pattern pieces together and I find that basic
Scotch tape is the best for this.

I: Clear Rulers
Having a variety of clear rulers in different shapes and sizes is essential in your kit for
patternmaking. I like having a little one for marking in tiny areas, long ones for making
marks for pin tucks, side seam lines, and other parts of the patternmaking process that
call for something longer than average. I also have a quilting square with diagonal lines
for helping square up corners and creating angles.

J: Right Angle
This is also a huge help in creating perfect 90 degree angles on your pattern. These are
also available in clear plastic, which most people prefer. I have had this black one since
art school and still use it.

K: Curved Rulers
To shape arm holes, hip curves, hems and other lines that are not straight in
patternmaking, it is essential that you have a few different curved rulers to get the
proper slope in your pattern.

Tools use for Drafting

5. 02. Draping: It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric around a form,
conforming to its shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. Ease allowances
for movement are added to make the garment comfortable to wear. Advantage of
draping is that the designer can see the overall design effect of the finished garment on
the body form before the garment piece is cut and sewn. However, it is more expensive
and time consuming than flat pattern making. Draping can be made on a Human body
or on a stand.

6. Add caption

03. Flat Pattern Making: It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with
comfort ease to fit a person or body form. A sloper is the starting point for flat pattern
designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement
and comfort. Five basic pattern pieces are used for women’s clothing. They include a
snug-fitting bodice front and bodice back with darts and a basic neckline, a sleeve and a
fitted skirt front and back with darts. However, as fashion changes frequently women’s
styles fluctuate frequently. These basic slopers are then manipulated to create fashions.
Nowadays draping is also tested by Computer aid techniques. A basic sloper has no
seam allowances, which facilitates its manipulations to various styles. It has no design
interest, only construction lines are marked on it. It is necessary that the basic structure
of a sloper should be such that adjustments can be introduced easily. For a good
pattern making, accurate measurements are of utmost importance.

7. Pattern making by CAD system
The flat pattern making method is widely used in the ready-to-wear market because it is
fast and accurate (Aldrich).

Image Curtsey: http://www.fashion-incubator.com/
About the Editor-in-Chief


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Computerised pattern making
At most large manufacturers, patterns are made on a computer with computer aideddesign (CAD)
systems, the pattern maker manipulating small graphic patterns on the computer screen with a
hand-held control device. Geometry drives can make an infinite number of changes to the shapes
and sizes the pattern including creating new design lines or adding pleats, fullness, and seam
allowances.To allow pattern makers to make patterns manually on a computer, another system has
been developed allowing the pattern maker to work life size on a sensitized table with traditional
tools and stylis that is attached to the table and the computer.
The stylis picks up the lines drawn on the table and shows them on the screen. Changes can also
be made directly on the screen.In both cases, patterns are immediately available for other
operations such as grading and marker making.The essential features of this technology are pattern
design and pattern generation systems.
Pattern design system the pattern maker inputs to the system all the block patterns in current use

8. and with the aid of the computer can construct garment patterns from them.Pattern generation
system when the pattern components for the top cloth have been developed on the computer via
pattern design system. The pattern generation programmer automatically generates the pattern for
auxiliary components such as linings and foibles.


Block Pattern
Block pattern is a basic pattern with out any style features and incorporates
the measurements, proportions and posture of the body for which garments, developed from this
pattern, are intended. Block pattern can be developed by either of the following methods.
The flat method
The components of the pattern, usually the body and sleeve, are constructed by a draft(technical
drawing) which incorporates the measurements and proportions of the particular system used by the
pattern maker. It cad be produced by a computer.
Modelling
It entails the fitting of the block garment usually in toile, on a workroom stand of the appropriate size,
when the fit balance are satisfactory, motile is removed from the stand and each component is
copied on to pattern paper and the necessary making up allowances added.
Garment Pattern
- See more at: http://www.textileschool.com/articles/627/types-of-pattern-making-in-garment-
manufacturing#34190

Grading:
By following production patterns approved sample is normally made for medium size
but if the buyer requires different size then we would have to grade the dimension like
S, L, XL, XXL, etc. Grading is an important term in garments manufacturing which
means step wise increasing or decreasing the master patterns.

9. Pattern grading method
For grading the following two techniques are commonly used:

Manual Grading:
The desired range of size is created one by one using pattern templates/master
patterns. A first master pattern pieces are sketched on the pattern board and then the
points are marked around the pattern pieces as per the direction of grade rules. In this
way we can get both the enlarged or reduced size patterns for all sizes of a particular
style of garments. A manually operated grading machine can also perform this job. This
device grips the master pattern pieces and places on the pattern board as per the
predetermined direction after which appropriate edge can be traced out maintaining the
grade rule.

Advantages:
 Cost effective process
Disadvantages:
 Time consuming process
 Expected accuracy may not be obtained.
Computer Aided Grading:
At first grade rules are stored in the computer memory and then the computer can
automatically develop pattern sets for all sizes using the direction given in the grade
chart.

10. Advantages:
 Quick process i.e. less time consumption;
 High accuracy may be obtained
Disadvantages:
 High initial cost is involved
 Skilled operator is required.
Two types of grading are generally done in industry:
1. Half part grading: If the increasing is done in every sides of a pattern, then it
called half part grading.
2. ¼ th part grading: If the grading acquires increasing or decreasing in any two
sides of a pattern, then it is called ¼ th part grading.


Read more: http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2015/11/garment-pattern-grading-techniques.html#ixzz4T4LSilYA
Pattern Grading
Pattern Grading is the process whereby patterns of different sizes are produced from
the original master pattern. This process can be performed manually or automatically by
a computerized system. Patterns are graded according to size charts which present the
sizes and the average measurements of the population group for which the garments
are intended.

11. Garment Pattern Grading
Methods of Grading
There are three basic methods of grading: cut and spread, pattern shifting, and
computer grading. No one method is technically superior and all are equally capable of
producing a correct grade.

01. Cut-and-spread method: The easiest method, which is the basis of the other two
methods, is to cut the pattern and spread the pieces by a specific amount to grade up,
or overlap them to grade down.

12. Cut-and-spread method
02. Pattern shifting: Pattern shifting is the process of increasing the overall dimensions
of a pattern by moving it a measured distance up and down and left and right, (using a
specially designed ruler) and redrawing the outline, to produce the same results as the
cut-and-spread method.

Pattern shifting
03. Computer grading: This is the fastest method, but tends to be an investment only
larger manufacturers can afford. However, sophisticated home computer software is
becoming affordable.

13. Computer grading
Today most manufacturers grade pattern on CAD systems. The pattern maker guides
a cursor around the edges of the sample pattern on a digitized table. At each of the key
points, he or she pushes a button to record a grade point. Each point is cross
referenced by a grade-rule table stored in the computer, which enlarges or reduces the
pattern automatically according to the predetermined direction. If the pattern was
originally made by computer, data are already in the computer and can be enlarged or
reduced automatically.

14. Basic block pattern for female
It is necessary to draw the Grade lines from where the grading is done. As from those
lines the increasing or the decreasing of measurements will be done.

15. Pattern line grading
Image Curtsey: http://www.fashion-incubator.com/
About the Editor-in-Chief
Mazharul Islam Kiron is a textile consultant and researcher on online business promotion. He is
working with one European textile machinery company. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.
Find him on LinkedIn @ Mazharul Islam Kiron
Find him on Facebook @ Mazharul Islam Kiron
Find him @ Google+



Read more: http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2014/03/methods-of-garment-pattern-grading.html#ixzz4T4LdOEIZ
Steps of Garments Pattern Making
Noor Ahmed Raaz
B. Sc in Textile Engineer (CU)
Specialized in Apparel Manufacturing

16. Merchandiser, A.M.C.S Textile Ltd (AEPZ)
Email: [email protected]



Pattern Making:
Patterns are paper templates for all the components of a garment, such as cloths,
lining, interlining which have to be cut for a garments. These patterns are used to draw
sketch on cloth or marker paper.

Steps of pattern making:
Patterns are made in two steps:
1. Block pattern.
2. Working pattern.
1. Block pattern:
Block pattern or basic block indicates the original pattern. Block Pattern is made based
on the specific and standard body measurement without any design or style. It is
produced according to exact dimension of body for different age group and gender.

Block pattern making method:

i. Flat method: In this method, different parts of garments, specially major parts are
made by technical drawing. In the technical drawing, proportion of different parts of a
garment is considered. This pattern can be made by both manual and computerized
method.

ii. Modeling: It is primary and first method and widely used in garment industry. Block is
made with standard body measurement of mannequin. This block is called toile. Toile is
worn on the mannequin and adjusted the pattern necessarily. Then Toile is worn out
from the body and individual parts of Toile are drawn on hard paper.

17. Manual pattern making
2. Working pattern:
Working pattern is derived from the flat method or modeling. Each and every pattern is
laid on the board paper to copy the block pattern. Then sewing allowance, Trimming
allowance, Button hole, button attaching, dart, pleat, Notch, shrinkage of the fabric, etc
are added with the copied pattern. Working pattern are needed for each an every part of
the garments. Working patterns are then cut with a sharp scissor or knife. Garment size
and name of the parts are written on the pattern pieces. Sample garments are made
from the working pattern.

Grading:
Grading means the step wise increase or decrease of a master pattern piece to create
larger or smaller sizes. The starting point can be the smallest size or the middle size.
Grading alters the overall size of a design but not its general shape and appearance.
Computer aided grading systems utilize internal calculation algorithms (grading rules)
for pattern construction.

Two methods of Grading:
1. Manual Grading
2. Computer aided Grading

18. Manual Grading:
The desired range of sizes is created one by one using a pattern template. Marks are
made around the master pattern at the appropriate distance and the marks are later
joined up to form the enlarged pattern. In this way a full set of templates, the pattern set
is generated.

A Grading machine eases the task of creating the pattern set. The device grips the
master pattern and displaces it by a precise vertical and horizontal distance, after which
the appropriate edge can be traced.

Computer aided Grading:
Computer based Grading systems are operating in one of two ways:

A.
1. The patterns can be cut out and can be used to make marker manually, if
necessary.
2. The graded sizes can be stored in the model files of the computer and recalled
when cutting markers for that style are to be planned on the system.
B.
1. The grading increments are fed in to the computer and the different sizes are
generated automatically using the same method as applied for manual Grading.
2. The pattern for each individual size is calculated separately starting from the data
in the size charts. The resulting layer of the patterns can be displayed to scale on
the computer monitor for visual assessment and if necessary adjustment.
Once the pattern set has been generated on the computer, it may be used in various
ways, depending on the level of automation in the factory.

In a fully automated system, the garment parts will be sorted automatically and
arranged in to a lay plan which can then be transmitted in the form of a control program
to the automatic laying and cutting system. Alternatively, the patterns can be sent to a
large plotting device where they will be drawn at full scale to serve as paper patterns for
manual cutting.

Some important definition related to pattern making:

Darts: The purpose of dart is to eliminate excessive fabric in a pattern so that it can
conform into the shape of a human body.

Grain Line: Pattern pieces normally carry a line is called Grain line. Grain Line of

19. pattern pieces usually is parallel to the warp (woven) or wale (knit). The actual direction
depends on whether the pattern is to align with the warp, weft, wale or course when laid
on the fabric for cutting. The direction of the grain line is therefore determined by the
designer.

Drill Holes: Drill holes are small holes drilled into pattern to indicate where other
components (such as pockets) should be superimposed.

Notches: Notches are cut into the pattern to indicate points where garment components
that are to be joined together.

About the Editor-in-Chief
Mazharul Islam Kiron is a textile consultant and researcher on online business promotion. He is
working with one European textile machinery company. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.
Find him on LinkedIn @ Mazharul Islam Kiron
Find him on Facebook @ Mazharul Islam Kiron
Find him @ Google+


Read more: http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2015/10/steps-of-garments-pattern-making.html#ixzz4T4LoUNIH