perfumes

detailed description regarding perfumes

1. PERFUMES PRESENTED BY : NISHA.N M PHARM 1 st SEM DEPT. OF PHARMACEUTICS SUBMITTED TO : MRS .SHEEBA .F.R DEPT OF PHARMACEUTICS MALLIGE COLLEGE OF PHARMACY 1/41

2. CONTENTS Evolutionary of perfumery History of perfumes What is perfume ? And its advantages and disadvantages . Composition of perfumes Notes in perfumes Classification of perfumes Manufacturing process of perfumes Perfumes ingredients listed as allergens in EU regulation 2/41

3. EVOLUTION OF PERFUMERY Majority of the animals and human beings have sense of smell . For example : Dog It is because of sense of smell that dog is used for detecting drugs , explosives etc by smell . Anew born baby can identify his / her mother by smell . Use of fragrant materials is associated with human beings from ancient materials though with the complexity of religion and mysticism ( ill – defined spiritual belief ) . In India “ Havan “ used to be performed to propitiate materials . “ Havan Samigri “ used to contain fragrant materials . 3/41

4. Performance of “ Havan “ used to fill the environment with fragrances . Perfume , as we know today , would not have been possible without alchemy ( ancient art of converting raw material into a perfect and purified form through a series of transformations ) . Alchemy came into its own being in medieval Europe but flourished in seventeenth century . Alchemist deserve credit for reforming the process of distillation . Some scientist were notable among them Issac Newton also practiced alchemy . Frenchmen Jacque Passy developed the technique of enfleurage . 4/41

5. In the beginning of eighteenth century , in london , one Mr . Parry started sales of perfumes and cosmetics along with medicines . 14. In the year ( 1906-1956 ) Ahmed Soliman was known as “ Cairo s perfume king “ . 5/41

6. HISTORY OF PERFUMES The Egyptians were the first who used perfume for personal enjoyment, but the production of perfume was reserved for the priests and they used it in religious purpose. The Greek used an extraordinary amount of perfume and for each part of the body they used a different fragrance for hygiene . The history of the Arabs is the fusion of art and science. Two talented Arabian chemists - Jābir ibn Hayyān and Al - Kindi established the perfume industry. The Romans used perfume as a part of luxury . 6/41

7. The oldest perfumery was discovered on the island of Cyprus 4,000 years ago indicating that perfume manufacturing was on an industrial scale. The Hungarians introduced the first modern perfume, made of scented oils blended in an alcohol solution at the command of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary. France is the birthplace of modern perfumery. France provided to grow aromatic plants for perfume industry with raw materials. Even today, France remains the centre of the European perfume design and trade. England and Germany also contributed a lot in modernization of perfumery. 7/41

8. WHAT IS PERFUME ? Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aromatic compounds, fixatives and solvents used to give the human body, animal, food objects and living spaces a pleasant scent. It has been used for centuries by mankind. Perfumes are supposed to release a continuous pleasant fragrance that will provide a long lasting feeling of freshness. Initially it was only used for religious purpose but now it has become an ornament of sophistication for both men and women . 8/41

9. ADVANTAGES : Enjoy the wafting of a well – performed person passing by side . Smell more pleasing . DISADVANTAGES : Some VOCS (Volatile organic compounds), such as formaldehyde , ethanol, and d- limonene , cause eye , nose , and throat irritation , difficulty in breathing , allergy symptoms and headaches . Chemicals may irritate others , especially in tight spaces. Contact dermatitis , an allergic reaction in the skin can occur. Diethly phthalate ( DEP) an irritant and suspended hormone distrupt that is absorbed through the skin and can accumulate in human fat tissue . 9/41

10. COMPOSITION OF PERFUMES Essential oils : Derived from natural aromatic plant extracts and synthetic aromatic chemicals. Ex : Linalool , geraniol , citrol etc . Fixatives : Natural or synthetic substance used to reduce the evaporation rate . Ex : Benzyl alcohol etc . Solvents : The liquid in which the perfume oil is dissolved in is usually 98% ethanol and 2% water . Alcohol allows fragrance to spread along with it and doesn’t permit microbial growth in the perfume . Ex : Water , Ethanol , Methanol etc . 10/41

11. NOTES IN PERFUMES Perfume is described in a musical metaphor as having three sets of notes , making the harmonious scent accord . 2) These notes are created carefully with knowledge of the evaporation process of the perfume. 3) The three notes are: • Top notes • Middle notes • Base notes 4) Each of these levels, however, has its own primary purpose. 11/41

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13. 1) TOP NOTES 1 ) They are generally the lightest of all notes and recognized immediately after application. Top notes consist of small, light molecules with high volatility that evaporate quickly. 2) Common fragrances of top notes include citrus (lemon, orange zest), light fruits (grape, berries) and herbs ( clary sage, lavender). 13/41

14. 2 ) MIDDLE NOTES 1 ) The middle notes, or the heart notes, make an appearance once the top notes evaporate. 2) The middle note compounds form the "heart" or main body of a perfume and act to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which become more pleasant with time. 3) Common fragrances of middle notes includes rose, lemon, lavender, nutmeg and jasmine . 14/41

15. 1 ) Base notes or bottom or dry notes appear while middle notes are fading. 2) The base and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume. Base notes bring depth and solidity to a perfume. 3) Common fragrances of base notes include sandalwood, vanilla, amber and musk 3) BASE NOTES 15/41

16. CLASSIFICATION OF PERFUMES Perfumes are classified into five major groups on the basis of concentration of fragrance and duration of lasting . 16/41

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18. Perfumes can further be classified into following classes 1) Traditional Modern 18/41

19. TRADITIONAL 1) Single floral fragrance that are dominated by a scent from one particular flower , in french called soliflore ( eg : serge lutens ’ sa majesta la rose which is dominated by rose ) . 2) Floral bouquet : containing the fragrance of several flowers in a scent . Eg. Amber , wood , leather , chypre , fougere 19/41

20. MODERN 1.Bright floral: Fragrance from one or several flowers. e.g. Estee lauder’s Beautiful 2. Green: Fragrance from cut grass or leaf. a light or more modern interpretation of the chypre . e.g. Calvin Klein’s Eternity 3. Aquatic: A very clean smell reminiscent of ocean. Eg: Christian dior’s dune . 20/41

21. 4 ) Citrus: Has freshening effect. E.g. Faberge Brut . 5 ) Fruity: Aromas of fruits other than citrus. E.g. Ginestet Botrytis . 6) Gourmand: Scent with edible or desert like qualities. E.g. Thierry Mugler’s Angel . 21/41

22. Based on aromatic sources Fragrances used in perfume can be found from following sources: a ) Plant Source: Barks, flowers, blossoms, fruits, resin, roots, seeds, woods etc. b ) Animal Source: Musk, civet, honeycomb etc. c ) Synthetic Source: Calone , synthetic terpenes etc. 22/41

23. MANUFACTUTRING PROCESS Perfumes can be manufactured by following steps: I. Collection II. Extraction III. Blending IV. Aging 23/41

24. I. Collection: Before manufacturing process begins the sources of suitable fragrances are collected in the manufacturing centre. II. Extraction: Oils are extracted from plants and other substances by several methods like: a. Steam distillation: steam is passed through plant materials held in a still, whereby the essential oil turns to gas. This gas is then passed through tubes, cooled, liquefied and collected. 24/41

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26. b. Solvent extraction: The flower parts are dissolved in benzene or petrolatum that retains the fragrance of the flower. Alcohol is used to dissolve the fragrance and heated to obtain it after evaporation of alcohol. 26/41

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28. c. Enfleurage: Flowers are kept in glass sheet with grease that absorb the fragrance of flowers 28/41

29. d. Expression: The citrus fruits or plants are manually or mechanically pressed until all the oil is squeezed out. 1) Manual extraction 2) Steel Pick Expression 3) Through Sponge’ Expression 29/41

30. e) maceration: 1) The plant material is soaked in vegetable oil , heated and strained. 2) This process creates more of infused oil , rather than essential oil. 3) These produced oils can be used for massage 111. Blending : Once the perfume oils are collected, they are ready to be blended together according to a formula determined by a master in the field, known as a "nose.” After the scent has been created, it is mixed with alcohol. Most full perfumes are made of about 10-20% perfume oils dissolved in alcohol and a trace of water. 30/41

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32. I V . Aging : Fine perfume is often aged for several months or even years after blending to ensure that the correct scent has been achieved 32/41

33. PERFUME INGREDIENTS LISTED AS ALLERGNS IN EU REGULATION The cosmetic regulation 1223/2009 lists the 26 most known allergic substances . The substances must appear on the label of your cosmetic product when present In the finished formula . ALLERGEN An allergen is commonly defined as “ any substance , often a protein , that induces an allergy “ . 33/41

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36. Cosmetics directive required that the presence of any of these 26 substances be indicated in the list of ingredients when its concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave on products and 0.01% in rinse off products. Such labelling allows patients who are allergic to one or more of these 26 fragrance chemicals to avoid products containing them . List A: Fragrance chemicals, which according to existing knowledge, are most frequently reported and well- recognised consumer allergens. Amyl cinnamal Amylcinnamyl alcohol Benzyl alcohol 36/41

37. Cinnamyl alcohol Benzyl salicylate Cinnamal Citral Coumarin Eugenol Geraniol Hydroxycitronellal Hydroxymethylpentyl-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde Isoeugenol 37/41

38. List B: Fragrance chemicals, which are less frequently reported and thus less documented as consumer allergens.  Anisyl alcohol  Benzyl benzoate  Benzyl cinnamate  Citronellol  Farnesol  Hexyl cinnamaldehyde  Lilial  d-Limonene  Linalool  Methyl heptine carbonate  3-Methyl-4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-3- buten-2-one 38/41

39. REFERENCE https://www.slideshare.net/AlishaBansal8/perfumes-128580193 https://www.slideshare.net/PrasathP13/perfumes-138581772 https://www.slideshare.net/SimranDhiman12/perfumes-classification-perfume-ingredients-listed-as-allergens-in-eu-regulation P.P Sharma , 5 th edition , Vandhana publications Delhi -110034 , cosmetics ( Formulation manufacturing and quality control ) 39/41

40. QUESTIONS Classify perfumes used in cosmetic industry with examples ? ( June 2019) Classify perfumes . Enumerate perfume ingredients listed as allergens in EU regulations ? ( May 2018 ) 40/41

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