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pratibha syntex pvt ltd, internship report by pooja
pratibha syntex pvt ltd, internship report by pooja
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Jun 20, 2018
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About This Presentation
garment industry 2 month internship observation report, included yarn to garment process.
Size:
4.77 MB
Language:
en
Added:
Jun 20, 2018
Slides:
61 pages
Slide Content
Slide 1
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 1
INDUSTRYINTERNSHIPREPORT
PratibhaSyntaxPvtLtd.
Pithampur,District:-Dhar,MadhyaPradesh
BachelorinFashionDesigning
(AffiliatedtoSNDTUniversity,Mumbai)
SubmittedBy:
MS.POOJAKUMARI
SubmittedTo:Mr.RikhilNagpal
DepartmentofFashionDesign
SDPSWomen’sCollege,Indore
March,2018
Slide 2
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 2
ABSTRACT
Thisdocumentisanaccountofthestudyandinternshipworkdone
duringmy8
th
semester,4
th
year2018atPratibhaSyntexPvt.Ltd.asa
partoffulfillmentofmycoursecurriculum.
TheprojectwascarriedundertheguidanceofMs.ShikhaAgarwal
(SeniorManager-BusinessDevelopment)andMr.AmitSarkar
(SeniorDesigner)asmyinternshipguidesatPratibhaSyntexPvt.Ltd.
Slide 3
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 3
DECLARATION
“Thisistocertifythat,thisProjectReporttitled“Internshipreport–
PratibhaSyntaxPvtLtd.“isbasedonmyoriginalinternshipwork,
conductedundertheguidanceofMr.RikhilNagpaltowardspartofmy
coursecurriculum,ofSDPSWomen’sCollege(Indore).
Nopartofthisworkhasbeencopiedfromanyothersource.Material,
whereverborrowedhasbeendulyacknowledged”.
Signatureofauthor/researcher
Ms.PoojaKumari
Slide 4
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 4
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
WewouldliketothankMs.ShikhaAgarwal(SeniorManager-Business
Development),andMr.AmitKSarkar(SeniorDesigner),atPratibha
SyntaxPvtLtd.forgivingmetheopportunitytotheirorganizationand
makingitpossibletocompletethisprojectsuccessfully.Mysincere
thankstoMs.VinniSharma(HR).
IwouldalsoliketothankmyprojectguideMr.RikhilNagpal(HOD,
SDPSWomencollegeIndoreforhisguidanceandhelpwhenever
requiredthroughthisproject.forprovidingtheappropriateatmosphere
toworkandcompletethisprojectsuccessfully.
Anotetothanksmyfamiliesandfriendsforbearingwithmeand
providingtheirfullsupportinthemakingofthisreport.
Slide 5
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 5
CERTIFICATE
Slide 6
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 6
CONTENTS
ABSTRACT……………………………………………………………2
DECLARATION………………………………………………………3
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT…………………………………………….4
CERTIFICATE…………………………………………………….….5
CONTENT……………………………………………………………..6
COMPANYPROFILE………………………………………….…..7-9
RESEARCHWORK…………………………………………….10-11
DESIGNINGDEPARTMENT………………………….………..11-21
PRODUCTION……………………………………………………21-22
LAB-DIP…………………………………………………………...22-24
SPINNING…………………………………………………………25-28
KNITTING………………………………………………………...29-42
TEXTILEFINISHING……………………………………….…..43-49
MERCHANDISING……………………………………………….50-55
VISUALMERCHANDISING………………………………….…54-57
USEOFWASTEMATERIALININDUSTRY…………………58-59
BIBLIOGRAPHY……………………………………………………..60
Slide 7
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 7
PratibhaSyntaxPvtLtd.
Pithampur,District:-Dhar,M.P.
COMPANYPROFILE
Aparadigmshiftinthewaygarmentsaredesignedandproduced,
reinforcingsynergybetweenpeople,planetandprofit.PratibhaSyntexisa
verticallyintegrated,sustainability-orientedmanufacturerofknittedtextile
products.Drivenbyastrongprogressivevision,Pratibhaiscommittedto
creatingrelationshipsacrossthevaluechainbringingtogetherover35,000
farmers,10,000employeesandrenownedglobalapparelbrandsfromover
20countries.
MORETHANRESPONSIBLETEXTILE
RESPONSIVENESS
PEOPLEWELLNESS
ORGANICVISION
INTEGRITY
Slide 8
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 8
INNOVATORS
RADICALTRANSPARENCY
Responsiveness
Dynamicproductionsystems
DesignnowandbuynowFeetontheground
Marketanalytics
FibertofashionVerticalintegration
Europeandesignstudio
High-visibilitydetailsarekey
Weaveglobalinfluencestogether
innovation
Technologyoptimization
Fiberforwardproductengineering
Lowimpactmaterials
Saltfreedyeing3Ddesignsolutions
Sustainabledevelopment
Passion
Fibreforwardfashiondevelopment
Collaborativeholisticsolutions
Sociallyinclusive
Slide 9
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 9
Organic
WatersavingRecycling
Womenempowered
Sustainability
VisioninAction
10,000peoplesharingacommonbelief
100%conversiontosustainablematerials
50%reductionofwaterfootprint
50%reductionofcarbonfootprint
33%reductioninsolidwastedisposed
Invest5%profitinpeopleandcommunitiestofurtherthevision
Vasudhaorganic
Engaging33,000farmersover160,000acres
OrganicEngaging30,000farmersover130,000acrestoproduce
sustainablecotton
ZeroDischargeFacility
100%waterrecycledandreusedbackinfacility
Slide 10
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 10
ResearchworkbasedonWGSNforecast
AW/18-19
DarkWonder:-
DarkWonderexplorestheinfluenceofnewtechnologiesonfashion.
Augmentedrealityisopeningthedoortoacceptanceofmoreunusual
aesthetics,andinaworldwherewecancreateourownidentities,gender
fluidityandindividualityareembraced.Thisisatrendthatdrawson
themesofsciencefiction,escapism,andexperimentationwiththehuman
form.
Seasonalstatements
Encrustedsurfacesarekey
Soft,tactiledesignsareimportant
Fetishlooksaremoresophisticated
Luxuryhasadarkbaroquequality
HumanNature:-
Inaneradrivenbydata,HumaNatureexplorestheurgetotrustour
instincts.Naturalmaterials,tactilesurfaces,andquiltedandintricately
decorateddesignsgainprominence.Textileslooktoglobalinfluencesand
time-honouredtechniques,andlayeredblanketsandsalvagedfabrics
createpiecesthatfeelbotholdandnew.
Seasonalstatements
Blanketstylingisakey
Designsfocusonutilitydetails
Oldandnewstylesarecombined
Shamanismandmysticisminspiredecoration
Worldhood:-
WGSN'sWorldhoodtrendexploresanincreasinglyglobalisedstreet
culture,whereinfluencesfromaroundtheworldaresharedandremixed
fasterthanever.Thedirectionisyouthful,expressiveandnostalgic.
Vibrantcolorsandclashingpatternsarewoventogetherto
makefamiliarlooksfreshagain,andclassicitemsarere
imaginedinluxuryfabrics.
Slide 11
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 11
Seasonalstatements
Experimentwithvolume
Focusonnostalgicitems
TheThinker:-
TheThinkerexploresanemergingeraofenlightenment,whereideasand
educationaretheprizedcurrency.Forwomenswear,thefocusison
simple,functionaldesigns.Thelookispreppy,attimesawkward,and
retro,harkingbacktotherebelliousintellectualismoftheBeatniks.
Comfortdressingisalsokey,astheboundariesbetweenworkandleisure
dissolve.
Seasonalstatements
Tweedytailoringseesaresurgence
Stylingisquirkyandslightlyawkward
'Geekchic'iskey
Comfortdressingbecomesmoreluxe
InDesigningdesigning:-
TypesofSamplesRequiredforCompletinga
GarmentsOrder:
Serialno. Sample Use
01 Proto/DevelopmentSampleToconvertthepatternintoactualgarment.
02
Sizeset/Grade/Fitting
Sample Tofitthestylingofthegarment.
03
AdditionalSample(White
Only)Magazine.Photo
shot)garmentontherack.
AlltheseSamplesaremadetoshowthe
garmentoftherack
04 ContractSeal/SealSample
Togainapprovalbeforethebulk
Production.
05 Pre-Production(PP)sample
Togainapprovalbeforethebulk
Production.
06 ProductionSample Togainapprovalforshippingthegarment._
07 SalesManSample(SMS) Togainapprovalforbulkproduction
08 RackSample Toshowthegarmentontherack.
Slide 12
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 12
1.PortoSample:-
Itistheveryfirstsamplegivenintothebuyer.Itispreparedaccordingto
thebuyer’sspecification.Itisatrialsamplepreparedonproduct
developmentdepartment.Buyerwantstoseeherethathowitslooklikes
afterapplyingnewdesignonit.Anytypesoffabricandcolorcanbeused
here.Forthistypesofsample2-3pcsgarmentsshouldbemadewhere1pc
formanufacturerandrestofthosearesenttothebuyerforcorrection.
Processofprotosampledevelopment
ProgramReceivedfromBuyer
↓
PersonalStudyonTechpack
↓
MeetingwithInternalTeam
↓
Adviceforpatternmaking
↓
SourcingRawmaterials
↓
AfterReceivingRawMaterialsSendtoSampleSection
↓
Cutting
↓
Printing/Artwork
↓
Sewing
↓
Washing(IfNeeded)
↓
FinishingandQC
↓
FinalReview
↓
Tagging
↓
Packing/Invoice
↓
SendtoBuyer
ProgramReceivedfromBuyer:
Firststepofprotosampledevelopmentisprogramreceivefrombuyer.
Slide 13
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 13
Buyergivesusatechpacktodevelopaprotosample.Wecollectallthe
detailsfrombuyerregardingdevelopmentprogram.
PersonalStudyonTechPack
Afterreceivingprogramwehavetostudyonit.Becauseoftocheck
whetherwearecapabletodevelopaprotosample,tocheckhowmuch
requirementofbuyerandhowmuchwehave.
MeetingwithInternalTeam
Aftercasestudyontechpackthenarrangeameetingwithinternalteam
whoinvolvedinthisdevelopmentprogram.Inthismeetingtodiscussed
howmuchimportantthisprogramandwhatisthedeadlinealso
discussedwearecapableornotforthisprogram.
AdviceforpatternMaking
Aftercompletingameetingnowadviceateamtomakeapatternfor
program.
SourcingRawmaterials
Accordingtobuyerrequirementsourcerawmaterialsfromthesupplier.
Forsourcingwehavetosendmailtosupplierwithattachingallthe
details.Suchasbrandname,styleno,color,fabricationdetails,fabric
descriptionetc.
AfterReceivingRawMaterialsSendtoSampleSection
Afterreceivingrawmaterialssendtosamplesectionformakeaproto
sample.Itisresponsibilityofmerchandisertokeepcommunicationwith
samplesection.Sothat,thesamplemakeintimeandbetterquality.
Cutting
Nowfabricsendtocuttingsectionforcutthefabricaccordingtopattern.
Cuttingisoneofthemajorprocessinprotosampledevelopment
program.
Printing/Artwork
Ifbuyerhasanyrequirementofprintingorartworkthenitsplaceonright
place.Thisprocessiscalledartworkplacement.
Sewing
Allthepartsofagarmentarejoinedheretomakeacompletegarment.
Sewingprocessisdonebymanually.
Washing(IfNeeded)
Slide 14
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 14
Ifbuyerwantsanywashinginsamplewehavetoapplyit.
FinishingandQC
Afterwashingwewillgetacompletegarmentwhichistreatedwith
steamironing&alsoseveralfinishingprocessesaredoneforexample
extraloosethreadcuttingetc.
Tagging
Taggingisveryimportantinprotosampledevelopmentprogrambecause
ifwedonotkeeptaggingagainsteachstyleitispossibletomixwith
otherstyle.
Packing/Invoice
Accordingtobuyerrequirementpackingallthegarments.
SendtoBuyer
Aftercompletingalltheprocessnowsendthesampletobuyerand
waitingforapproval.
ThemeaccordingtoResearchWork
Projectwhichishandlebyme
STUDIOUS’Style ORGANICLuxury
Slide 15
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 15
Texturedevelopment,inphotoshop
sketch
Finalgarmentsample
Slide 16
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 16
AnotherProjectonHeroGear
Slide 17
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 17
C&A
Slide 18
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 18
2.Fitsample:-
Afterapprovingprotosample,fitsampleshouldbemadebyfollowing
buyerprovidedmeasurementsheet.Itcanbemadebyusingsimilarfabric,
nearerGSMandanycolor.InFitsample,stitchingandmeasurement
mustbe100%accurate.Herefabricationandcolorcanbechangedbutno
compromiseonstitchingandmeasurement.2-3garmentsareusedinfit
samplewhere1pckeptbythemanufacturerandrestofthosearesentto
thebuyer.
3.Sizesetsample:-
Afterapprovingfitsample,basedonthepatternsofapprovedsample,all
theothersizessamplesshouldbegradedhereandmakepatternfor
differentsizes.Afterthat,make2-3pcssampleforeachsizeofthatorder.
Manufacturerkeep1pcsampleforhimselfandsend1pcor2pcsamples
tothebuyerforcuttingapproval.Here,itshouldbenotedthat,without
thesizesetsampleapproval,cuttingshouldnotbestarted.
Countersample:-
Thistypeofsampleisbasedonthecommentsreceivedfromthebuyer.
Forthissample,2-3pcsgarmentsarerequired.
Salesmansample(SMS):-
Salesmansampleisusedbysalesteamofbuyertoenhancethesalesof
anygarment.Buyersendsthesamplebysalesmaninthemarketto
receivemarketfeedbackfromthecustomers.Itisdoneapproximately
200-500pcsdependingonthecustomersandseason.Themainobjectsof
SMSsamplearetocheckmarket,feedback,Buyer’sdesignetc.
Pre-productionsample(PPS):-
P.Psampleshouldbemadeinactualproductionlinebymaintainingall
actualofanorderspecification.Itisthemainstageofagarmentsorder
whereanysamplemaybeapprovedorrejected.Ifthesamplewill
approvethencangofortherestoftheprocessofthatorder.Butif
rejectedthentherewillbetherevisionofpreviousprocesses.PPC
(Planningproductionandcontrol)departmentisalsoinvolvedinthis
stage.OnesPPCdepartmentisinvolvedthenthere’snowayforaccepting
ofanystylechange.Itistheverycriticalstagethanother’sstage.Extra
caremustbeneededheretoconfirmanordercorrectly.
Topofproductionsample(TOP):-
Slide 19
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 19
Duringrunninganorderinproductionline,afewsamplessenttothe
buyerorbuyersQ,CasTOPsample.TOPsamplehasagreatimportance
inachievingcertificationofwholeorder.IfTOPsamplefailedtoapprove
itsrequiredqualitythenwholeorderwillberesumed.
Shipmentsample:-
Shipmentsampleisneededaftercompletingfinalinspection,whengoods
arereadyfortheshipment.Itisasamplethatreflectswhatbuyerswill
receivedowntoQ.C,folding,tagging,bagging,labellingandfinal
packagingincluded.
WorkingProcessofSampleSectionin
GarmentsIndustry:-
Sample:-
Sampleistheprototypeormodelofthegarment,uponwhatthebuyer
candecideonhowandwhethertoconfirmtheorderornot.
SamplingProcessFlowChart:
Slide 20
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 20
DescriptionoftheSamplingProcesses:-
1.TechPackReceiving:Thisisthefirststageofthesamplingprocesses.
InthisstageTechPackortheTechnicalpackisreceivedfromthebuyer,
viamerchandiser.Techpackcontainsallthespecificationstoproducea
garment.
2.CAD&PatternMaking:InthisstagepatternismadethroughCAD.
Sometimespatternismademanually,butCADismorepopularand
easy,Computer-aideddesign(CAD)istheuseofcomputerTechnology
forthedesignofobjects,realorvirtual.Thedesignofgeometricmodels
forobjectshapesisoftencalledcomputer-aidedgeometricdesign
(CAGD).However,CADofteninvolvesmorethanjustshapes.Asinthe
manualdraftingofTechnicalandengineeringdrawings,theoutputof
CADoftenmustconveyalsosymbolicinformationsuchasmaterials,
processes,dimensions,andtolerances,accordingtoapplication-specific
conventions.CADmaybeusedtodesigncurvesandfiguresintwo-
dimensional("21")space;orcurves,surfaces,orsolidsinthree-
dimensional("3D")objects.ViyellatexpatternsectionusesOptitexCAD
softwareforpatternmaking.
3.SampleMaking:Samplemakingisthegoalofthisdepartment.After
makingthepattern,thesampleismadebyusingthepatternset.
4.SizeSetting:Aftermakingthesample,sizeissetaccordingtothe
TechPack.Ifthereisanyfault,thesampleisredone.
5.PreProduction(PP)Meeting:Afterthebuyerhasinspectedthe
sample,apreproductionmeetingiscalled.Inthismeetingbuyerorhis
agent,merchandiser,samplemanager,allremainpresent.Theydecideon
howtoandwhentostarttheproduction.IfthedecisionOkayed,the
sampleisreadytogoforfinalproduction.
6.GradingofSample:Afterfinalizingthesample.Gradingisdone.
Theremaybeseveralgradesofasingledesign.Thegradingisdoneto
separatethesamplesandpatternsfromeachother’s
7.Marker:Aftergradingthesamples.Thedesignisinputtedintothe
markersoftware.Thissoftwarespecifieshowtosetthepatterninthe
actualfabric.Byusingthemarkersoftwareefficiently,fabriccanbe
Slide 21
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 21
saved.ViyellatexusesGerberGarmentTechnology(GGT)formarker
making.
8.Cutting:Aftermakingthemarkerthepatternisdeliveredtothe
cuttingunitandthefabriciscutforfinalproduction.
SampleProcedure:
Therearesomestandardsampleproceduresafterpatternmaking,theyare
asfollows:SourcingtheFabricandAccessoriesformakingtheGarment
↓
Cutting(ForSampleOnly)
↓
Embellishment
↓
Sewing
↓
Iron
↓
QualityControl
↓
PrecheckForm
↓
BuyerQC
↓
ForwardingfromtheMerchandiser
↓
SendingSampletotheBuyer
Production
ProductionPlanning:-
Aplannedworkbringssuccess.Withoutplanningnothingiscompleted
withintherequiredtime.Soplanninghasitsownimportancewhichis
intolerable."Planning"givesascheduledtaskand'control'completesit
successfully.Butproductionplanningandcontrolisnotaneasytask.
Flowchartofproductionplanningisgivenbelow.
Slide 22
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 22
ProductionPlanning
ProcessProductionPlanning
Marketing
↓
Labdip
↓
Labdipapproval
↓
Sampleproduction
↓
Sampleapproval&Orderforbulkproduction
↓
Knitting
↓
Sampleproductionaccordingtobuyerrecommendation
↓
Bulkknittingproduction
↓
Batching
↓
Pre-treatment
↓
Dyeing
↓
Finishing
↓
Packing
↓
Slide 23
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 23
RFD
↓
Garmentsection
Labdip:-
Atfirstdyeingisperformedindyeinglabandthenstartingforbulk
production.Dyeinglabworkiscalledlabdipdevelopment.Alabdipisa
swatchoffabrictestdyedtohitacolorstandard.Labdipplaysan
importantroleindyeingprocess.Bulkdyeingprocesscompletely
dependsonthelabdip.Inthelab,labdiporsampleisdevelopedbythe
textileengineerortechnician.Flowchartoflabdipisgivenbelow.
Processoflabdip
Receivingstandardswatchfromthebuyer
↓
Determinationofsample’spossiblecolorcombinationbythehelpof
Spectrophotometerormanually
↓
Dispersionbyautodoser
↓
Trialdyeingoffirstrecipe
↓
Unload
↓
Normalwash
↓
Hotwashwithdetergent
↓
Ovendrying
↓
Ironing
↓
Shadematchinginlightbox(IfOkthensendtobuyerforapproval)
↓
Ifnotok
↓
FirstcorrectiontakesfromSpectrophotometerormanually
↓
Dispersionbyautodoser
↓
Trialdyeingoffirstrecipe
↓
Slide 24
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 24
Unload
↓
Normalwash
↓
Hotwashwithdetergent
↓
Ovendrying
↓
Ironing
↓
Shadematchinginlightbox(IfOkthensendtobuyerforapproval)
↓
Ifnotok
↓
SecondcorrectiontakesfromSpectrophotometerormanually
↓
Dispersionbyautodozer
↓
Trialdyeingoffirstrecipe
↓
Unload
↓
Normalwash
↓
Hotwashwithdetergent
↓
finishing
↓
Hydro
↓
Drying
↓
Comparewithstandardswatch
↓
Ifok
↓
Sendforbuyer’sapproval
↓
Bulkproductionbyconsideringthebuyer’sapprovedsampleasstandard
Slide 25
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 25
Spinning:-
Yarnfinishingisaveryimportanttaskforspinners.Becausebuyersare
notinterestedtobuyunfinished/faultyyarn.Aftergettingyarnfromring
framehasmanyfaultslikeslubs,neps,knots,hairyetc.Forreducingyarn
faultautoconewindingmachineisused.Whichgivesrightweightand
shapeofyarninconepackage.Alltasksaredoneinspinningfinishing
section.Sospinningfinishingsectionhasimportantroleinyarn
manufacturingprocess.NowI’mgivingflowchartofspinningfinishing
section.
Yarnfinishingprocess(Heatsetting)
FlowChartofSpinningFinishingSection
Yarngetswithcoppackagefromringframe
↓
Windingbyautoconer
↓
Checkingunderultravioletlight
↓
Yarnconditioningbyheatsetting
↓
Weightdetermination
↓
Packing
↓
Deliverytobuyer
Slide 26
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 26
Firststepof
cottonyarn
production
Foropening,
cleaninganddust
removal
Blending,and
preparedfor
cardingprocess
BLOWROOM
Slide 27
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 27
CARDING
Function:-
Toimprove
evennessofthe
sliver
Toarrangefiber
inparallel
Blending
Dustremoval
DRAWING
Slide 28
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 28
COMBING
ROVING
SPINNING
Slide 29
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 29
Knitting:-
Knittingisonekindoffabricmanufacturingprocess.Thistypeoffabric
isproducedbyformingloop.TheKnittingManagerisresponsiblefor
productionofknittingsection.InthisarticleIwillgiveaproduction
flowchartofknittingdepartmentinfabricmanufacturingindustry.It
startsfromcollectingorderfrombuyerandwillendbydeliveringthe
productindyeingunit.
Knittedfabricstructure
Allweftknittedfabricstructuresareclassifiedintofourbasicgroups
accordingtothearrangementofloopsintheircoursesandwales.Four
primarystructuresplain,rib,interlockandpurlarethebasestructures
fromwhichallweftknittedfabricsarederived.Ashortintroductionof
fourprimarystructuresaregivenbelow.
Weftknittedfabricstructures
Slide 30
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 30
Plainstructure:
Thesimplestandmostbasicstructureisthe“plainknit”whichisalso
called“singleknit”.Plainisaknitstructurefamily,whichisproducedby
theneedlesofonlyonesetofneedlewithalltheloopsintermeshedinthe
samedirection.Althoughtheplainknitfamilyencompassesagreat
numberofstructuresallproducedonasingleneedlebed.
RibStructure:
Rib,alsocalled“Double-knit”isthesecondfamilyofknitstructures.Rib
requirestwosetsofneedlesoperatinginbetweeneachothersothatwales
offacestitchesandwalesofbackstitchesareknittedoneachsideofthe
fabric.Manytypesofribstructurescanbeproducedaccordingtothe
arrangementofactiveneedlesinthefrontandbackneedlebeds.
Interlockstructure:
Theinterlockstructureisavariantoftheribforminwhichtwothreads
arealternatelyknittedbytheoppositeneedlessothatinterlockingoccurs.
Interlockisaninterlockingoftwo1x1ribstructuresinsuchawaythat
thefacewaleoffabric“1”isdirectlyinfrontofthe'reversewale'ofthe
ribfabric“2”.
Purlstructure:
Purlknitstructuresisthethirdfamilyofknitstructures.Inthepurlfabric
structure,loopsaredrawntooppositesidesofthefabric,which,onboth
sides,hastheappearanceofthebackofaplainstitchfabric.
Comparisonbetweenbasicstructuresofweftknittedfabric:
Inthetablewehaveshownplain,rib,interlockandpurlfabricstructures.
PropertiesPlain Rib Interlock Purl
AppearanceDifferentonface
&back;V-
shapesonface,
arcsonback
Sameonboth
sides,likeback
ofplain
Sameonboth
sideslikeface
ofplain
Sameon
bothsides,
likebackof
plain
UNrovingEitherend Onlyfromend
knittedlast
Onlyfromend
knittedlast
Eitherend
Curling TendencytocurlNotendencytoNotendencytoNo
Slide 31
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 31
curl curl tendencyto
curl
Thickness&
warmth
Thicker&
warmerthan
plainwoven
madefromsame
yarn
Muchthicker&
warmerthan
plain
Verymuch
thicker&
warmerthan
plain
Verymuch
thicker&
warmer
thanplain
Extensibility
Lengthwise
Widthwise
Area
Moderate(10-
20%)
High(30-5-%)
Moderate-High
Moderate
Veryhigh(50-
100%)
High
Moderate
Moderate
Moderate
Veryhigh
High
Veryhigh
End-uses
BasicT-shirt
(men'sand
ladies),Ladies
stockings,fine
cardigans,
dresses,base
fabricfor
coating,fully
fashionedknit
wearetc.
Socks,cuffs,
waistbands,
collars,
underwear,
knitwear.
Underwear,
shirts,suits,
sportswear,
trousersuits,
dresses.
Children’s
clothing,
knitwear,
thickand
heavy
outerwear.
ProductionFlowchartofKnittingSection
ExecutivedirectortakesorderfromBuyer
↓
Merchandiserestimatestotalamountofyarnofproduction
↓
Knittingmanagergetsproductionordersheet
↓
SeniorProductionOfficerorderedbyK.M.andordersProductionofficer
andTechnicalin-charge.
↓
ProductionofficerfixesupstitchlengthandGSMwithmechanicalfitter.
↓
DefiniteoperatoroperatesmachineinhisfullconsciousandAttention.
↓
Mechanicalfitterfixesmachineifthereisanym/cfault.
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↓
Supervisorskeepdailyproductionreportandassurem/cisOK.
↓
Fabricrollischeckedbyatroopofinspectorsininspectionunitand
weighted.
↓
Finalproducttotherequiredamountisdeliveredtodyeingunit.
KnittedFabricDefectsandRemedies
Faultsordefectsinknittingproductioncanbecausedindifferentways
andquiteafewofthemcannotberelatedtojustonecause.Thefollowing
explanationsareexpectedtobehelpfulintryingtolocatethecausesof
thesefaultseasier.
Reasonsoffabricdefects:
Yarnmanufacturingdefects
Fabricmanufacturingdefects
Fabricprocessingfaultsordefects.Suchasdyeingfaults,
printingfaultsorfinishingfaults.
Sourcesoffabricfaults:
Thesourcesoffaultscouldbe:
Faultsinyarnandtheyarnpackage
Yarnfeedingandyarnfeedregulator
Machinesettingandpatterndefects
Machinemaintenance
Climaticconditionsintheknittingplant
ListofKnittingFaultsFoundinKnittedFabric:
Knittedfabricfaultsareverydifferentinnatureandappearanceandare
oftensuperimposed.Thefollowingknittedfabricdefectsarefoundin
knittedfabricproduction.
1.Brokenends,holesorcracks
2.Dropstitch
3.Clothfall-outorpressed-offstitches
4.Snaggingorsnags
5.Tuckordoublelooporstitches
6.Bunching-up
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7.Verticalstripes
8.Horizontalstripes
9.Soilstripes
10.Colorflyorcolortinges
11.Distortedstitchesordeformedortiltedloops
1.Brokenends,holesorcracks:
Holesaretheresultofcracksoryarnbreakages.Duringstitchformation
theyarnhadalreadybrokenintheregionoftheneedlehook.Depending
ontheknittedstructure,yarncount,machinegaugeandcoursedensity,
theholeshavedifferentsizes.Thissizecanthereforeonlybeestimatedif
thecomparablefinalappearanceofacomparablefabricisknown.
Possiblecauses:
a)Yarnparameters
Highyarnirregularity
Incorrectyarninputtensionsetting,yarnrunning-intentionistoo
high
Poorlylubricatedyarns
Weakplacesinyarn,whichbreakduringstitchformation
Knots,slubsetc.
Yarnistoodry.
b)Iftheyarnistrappedbetweenthecheektaperandtheclosinglatch
Yarndamage
c)Toosmallstitches
Difficultyincasting-offofthestitches
d)Relationbetweencylinderanddialloopnotcorrect;yarnfeederbadly
set;defectiveknittingelements.
Remedies:
Yarnstrengthmustbesufficienttowithstandthestretchaswell
asuniform.
Usepropercountofyarn.
Airhumidification.
Guideblowing.
Correctlysetofyarnfeeder.
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Yarnregularitycontrol.
Preciseyarn-guideresetting.
Knotshouldbegivenproperly.
Useofprotectivefiltercreel.
2.Dropstitches:
Thesearetheresultofadefectiveneedle.Theyalsooccurwhenayarnis
notproperlyfedduringstitchformation,i.e.,notproperlylaid-inthe
needlehooks.Thesearetheunlinkedknittedloops.
Dropstitch
Possiblecauses:
a)Inaccurateinsertionoftheyarnintotheneedlehook;
Closedlatch–awaleofdroppedstitcheswillbeproduceduntil
thelatchisopenedeitherbytheoperatororduetomachinevibration.
b)Brokenneedlehook;
c)Duetohighyarntwistandlowfabrictake-down-tensiontheknitted
loopcouldfalloutofthehook;
d)Impropersettingoftheyarnfeedanglei.e.badlysetyarnfeeder
Theyarnisnotcaughtbytheneedlehook,Example-lowyarn
tensionandhighyarnvibrations
e)Yarnfeederwronglythreaded-in;
f)Diallooplengthnotproperlyrelatedtocylinderlooplength;theloop
jumpsoutoftheneedlehook;
g)Badtake-up;
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h)Verydrymaterial;
i)Insufficientyarntension.
Remedies:
Correcttake-upofthefabric&correctfabrictension.
EnsureuniformyarntensiononallthefeederswithaTension
Meter.
Rateofyarnfeedshouldbestrictlyregulatedaspertherequired
StitchLength.
Properfeedingofyarnduringloopformation.
Thefabrictubeshouldbejustlikeafullyinflatedballoon,not
tootightortooslack.
Needleshouldbestraight&well.
Theyarnbeingusedshouldhavenoimperfectionslike;Slubs,
Neps&bigknotsetc
ThegapbetweentheCylinder&theDialshouldbecorrectly
adjustedaspertheknittedloopsize.
3.Clothfall-outorPressed-offstitches:
Itisanareaconsistingofdropstitcheslyingsidebyside.Theycanoccur
eitherwhenayarnislaid-outorwhenitbreakswithoutanyimmediate
connection.Clothfall-outcanoccurafteradropstitchespeciallywhenan
emptyneedlewithclosedlatchrunsintotheyarnfeederandremovesthe
yarnoutofthehooksofthefollowingneedles.
Clothfall-outorPressed-offstitches
Possiblecauses:
Yarnbreaksbeforetheyarnfeeder
Yarnpackagewindingfaults,poorpackagebuildup;
Fibreflyblocktheyarnguides,feedersetc.
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Remedies:
Needledetectors,shouldbesetprecisely,todetecttheclosed
needles&preventthefabrictubefromcompletelypressingoff.
Makesureallthelatchesofneedleareclosedwithfeedingyarn
afteradropstitch.
Properyarntensionshouldbemaintained,onallthefeeders.
4.NeedlemarksorVerticalstripes:
Verticalstripescanbeobservedaslongitudinalgapsinthefabric.The
spacebetweenadjacentwalesisirregularandtheclosedappearanceof
thefabricisbrokenupinanunsightlymanner.Verticalstripesandgaps
inthefabricareoftentheresultofameagersetting,i.e.,theyarncount
selectedistoofineforthemachinegaugeorthestitchsize(course
density)isnotcorrect.Needlesarebent,damaged,donotmove
uniformlysmooth,comefromdifferentsuppliersoraredifferently
constructed.
Verticalstripes
Possiblecauses:
Twistedorbentneedlehooks;
Stifflatchesandneedles;
Incorrectclosingofthehookbythelatch;
Heavilyrunningneedles;
Damageddialandcylinder;
Damagedneedlelatchandneedlehooks;
Damagesonotherknittingelements.
Remedies:
Yarncountshouldbeselectedasmachinegauge.
Stitchsizeshouldbecorrect.
Selectionofneedleproperly.
Needleshouldbestraightaswellasfrombrokenlatch
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5.HorizontalStripes:
Thesearecausedbyunevennessinthecourses;theytraversehorizontally
andrepeatthemselvesregularlyorirregularly.
HorizontalStripes
Possiblecauses:
Deflectorindialcambroughtintotuckposition.
Deflectornotcompletelyswitchedoff.Needlecanstillgripthe
yarnandformsatuckloop.
Yarnfeederbadlyset.
Differencesintheyarnrunning-intension.
Coulieringnotconstantatallfeeders.
Jerkyimpulsefromfabrictake-up.
Remedies:
Themachinemustbemountedhorizontally.
Needledial&cylindermustbeexactlycenteredtowardsone
another.
Replacethatbobbin.
Yarntension&stitchshouldbecontrolleduniformly.
Yarnsofsamelotshouldbeused.
Checkcamspositioning
6.Barriness
Barrinessdefectappearsintheknittedfabricintheformofhorizontal
stripesofuniformorvariablewidth.Actuallybarre'nessistheperiodic
lateralirregularities
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Barriness
A.StructuralBarre'ness:
Possiblecauses:
Individualyarnsdifferwithrespecttocount,propertiesor
structure;
Differentcourselengthsinfeeders.
B.ColourBarre'ness:
Possiblecauses:
Knittingofyarnswhichdifferincolour;
Yarnsdyedifferentlyduringpiecedyeing.
C.ShadowBarre'ness:
Possiblecauses:
Shadowlikechangesintheappearanceofthefabric.Very
difficulttodetectanddonebyreflectedlight.
Remedies:
EnsureuniformYarnTensiononallthefeeders.
Ensurethatthehardnessof,alltheyarnpackages,isuniform,
usingahardnesstester.
TheaverageCountvariationinthelot,shouldnotbemorethan+
0.3
EnsurethattheyarnbeingusedforKnittingisofthesameLot/
Mergeno.
7.Bunching-uporThickandThinPlaces:
Visibleknotsinthefabricarereferredtoasbunchingup.Theyappearas
beadsandturnupirregularlyinthefabric.Canbuildupresultingina
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‘cloudy’appearance.Moreirregulartheyarn,morepronouncedisthe
‘cloudy’appearance.
Bunching-up
Possiblecauses:
Thickandthinplacesintheyarn;
Fabrictake-uptooweak.
Remedies:
Specifythequalityparametersoftheyarnstobeusedfor
productiontotheyarnsupplier.
Preventingcountorlotmixing.
Maintaininguniformyarntension..
Fabrictake-upshouldfunctionproperly.
8.Snagging:
Snagsmainlyoccurwhileprocessingfilamentyarns.Thetendencytowardssnagging
canbereducedbyusingyarnswithacoarsersinglefilamentcount,lessercrimp
elasticityandhighertwist.
Snagging
Causes:
Duringknittingallmechanicalinfluences,causedbyroughsurfaceson
yarnguideelements,yarnfeeders,needles,fabrictake-up,etc.havetobe
avoided.Evenafterknittingsomesnagscanappearespeciallyduring
fabricsetting,ifitsstorageandfurtherprocessinghasnotbeen
undertakencarefully.
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Remedies:
Inspect&rectifythefabriccontactpointsonallthemachines
(SoftFlowDyeing,TumbleDryer&Centrifugeetc),onwhich
snaggingistakingplace.
Usingyarnwithacoarsersinglefilamentcount,lessercrimp
elasticityandhighertwist.
Duringknittingonmechanicalinfluences,causedbyrough
surfacesonyarnguideelements,yarnfeeders,needles,fabrictake-up
etc.
9.TuckorDoublestitches:
Theseoccurduetobadlyknittedornon-knittedloops.Theyare
unintentionaltuckloopsorfloats,alsoshowingupasthickplacesor
smallbeadsinthefabric.Atfirstinstancetheymayalsoappearasa
shadowwhenthefabricisobservedagainstlight.
Possiblecauses:
Fabrictake-upistooweak,i.e.,fabrictake-upisinsufficient,
mustbereadjusted,hasaonesideddragonthefabricorisnot
continuous.
Thedialissettoohigh.Thedialneedlesdonotsupportthefabric,
whichisthuspulledup.
Thecoursedensityorcoulieringisnotsetcorrectly.
Theloopsaretootight,e.g.withinterlock.Theseloopsarenot
removedfromtheneedles.
Remedies:
Fabrictake-upmustbeadjusted.
Thecoarsedensitymustbesetcorrectly.
10.Soilstripe:
Soilstripescanappearbothinthedirectionofwalesaswellascourses.
Soilstripesinthedirectionofthewalesaresolelycausedbytheknitting
machine.Inmostcasestheyaresocalledneedlestripes;theyoccurwhen
individualneedleshavebeenreplacedorwhentheworkingofmechanical
orautomaticoilingorgreasingdevicesisdefective.
Stripesorsoiledplacesinthedirectionofthecourseswerealready
presentusuallyintheyarn,ifnotcausedbyastandingcourseasaresult
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ofmachinestoppage.
Causes:
Defectiveoilingorgreasing.
Suddenmachinestoppage.
Atthetimeofdefectiveneedlereplacing.
Remedies:
Consciouslyoilingorgreasing.
Beingawareofneedlechanging.
11.ColourFly:
ColourfIyconsistsofsinglefibres,bunchesoffibresoryarnpiecesin
varyingcolours.Itadditionallysticksontheyarnorisknittedintothe
fabricandisverydifficulttoremove.
Causes:
Hairswithnaturaldarkcolorpresentinrawwool.
Flycomingfromvariousprocessingstagesduringspinning.
Remedies:
Shouldbecarefulofflycomingatthetimeofspinning.
Certainofhairswithnaturaldarkcolorareunavoidable&must
betolerated.
Batching:-
Batchsectionisapreparatorystageofdyeing.Itisthereceivingsection
ofgreyfabricandsendingsectionofgreyfabrictothedyeingsection
whichwilldye.Batchingistheprocesstogetreadythefabricswhich
shouldbedyedandprocessedforalotofaorder.
ProcessoffabricBatching
ReceivebatchcardfromGreyIn-charge
↓
Makethepriorityasperdyeingplan
↓
TakeonespecificBatchcard.
↓
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ReadtheBatchCardforownunderstanding
↓
Checktheavailabilityoffabric
↓
Takerequiredquantityofbodyfabricfromware-house.
↓
Makerequiredno.ofRopemaintainingequallength.
↓
Takecollar/cuffaspersize,keepthetotalweight.
↓
Distributethecollar/cufforRibineachropeequallyunsureequallength
↓
Stitchthefabric
↓
Writedowntheweightagainstrollno.inthebacksideoftheBatch
Card.
↓
WritethetotalweightinBatchcard
↓
Putsignature&date.
↓
Filluptheproductionreportform.
Knitdyeing:-
Knitdyeingisatechniqueofdyeingtheknittedfabrics.Thedyeingof
knittedfabricsoccursintheexhaustmethodorinbatch-wiseprocess.
Knitdyeingprocessisnearsimilartoyarndyeingprocessbutthereis
somedifferenceinqualitymeasurement.Generally,alltypesofsingle
jersey,doublejerseyandtheirderivativesaredyedbydifferentway.
Flowchartofknitfabricdyeingdescribeshortly.
ProcessofKnitFabricDyeing:
Greyfabricinspection
↓
Batching
↓
Fabricturning
↓
Loadingtothem/c
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↓
Pre-treatment(Scouring&Bleaching)
↓
Dyeing
↓
Dewatering
↓
Drying
↓
Compacting&Calendaring
↓
Finalinspection&packing
TextileFinishing:-
Thetreatmentappliedtothetextilegoodsafterdyeingandprinting
processisnormallycalledfinishingprocess.TextileFinishingiscalled
thebeautificationprocessoftextile.Itisaprocessusedinmanufacturing
offiber,fabric,orclothing.Inordertoimparttherequiredfunctional
propertiestothefiberorfabric,itiscustomarytosubjectthematerialto
differenttypeofphysicalandchemicaltreatments.
Textilefinishingflowchartisdifferentfortwotypesoffabric.Oneflow
chartforopenfabricandanotherfortubefabric.
ProcessofTextileFinishing(OpenFabric)
Slitting
↓
Stentering
↓
Compacting
↓
Finalinspection
↓
Packing
↓
Bailing
↓
Delivery
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processofTextileFinishing(TubeFabric)
Dewatering
↓
Drying
↓
Compacting
↓
Finalinspection
↓
Packing
↓
Bailing
↓
Delivery
Apparelmanufacturing:-
Garmentisabasicneedofhumanbeing.It'smanufacturingprocessis
complicated.Garment/Apparelmanufacturingprocessingdependson
somestepsandtechniques.Itstartsfromorderreceivingandwillbe
endingtodispatchingshipmentofthefinishedgarments.Aprocessflow
charthelpstounderstandhowrawmaterialsaremovedfromoneprocess
toanotherprocessuntilrawmaterialsaretransformedintothedesired
product(garments).
ProcessofGarmentManufacturing
Design/sketch
↓
Basicblock
↓
Workingpattern
↓
Samplemaking
↓
Basicmanufacturingdifference
↓
Approvedsample
↓
Costing
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↓
Productionpattern
↓
Grading
↓
Markermaking
↓
Fabricspreading
↓
Cutting
↓
Sortingorbundling
↓
Sewing
↓
Ironingandfinishing
↓
Finalinspection
↓
Packing
↓
Cartooning
↓
Sendtobuyer
Manufacturingsequence:-
Operation Requirements Method
01.Design/sketch
Itisgivenbybuyersto
manufacturerscontaining
sketchesincluding
measurementsofthestyle Manual/computerized
02.Basicblock Withoutanyallowance Manual/computerized
03.Workingpattern
Assimilatingofdiagramofnet
dimensiononpapereachand
individualpartwhichiscalled
patternandwhenwemovewith
itthroughoutthewhole
manufacturingprocesses.We
termitworkingpattern. Manual/computerized
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04.Samplemaking
Aftergettingallthespeech,the
sampleismadeandsenttothe
buyersforapprovaltorectify
thefaults. Manual
05.Basic
manufacturing
difference
Thecriticalpathisidentifiedi.e
theproblemduringtheseveral
operations. Manual
06.Approvedsample
Afterrectifyingthefaults,
sampleisagainsenttobuyers.
Ifitisok,thenitiscalled
approvedsample. Manual
O7.Costing
Fabricrequired
Makingcharge
Trimmings
Profits Manual
08.Production
pattern
Addallowancewithnet
dimension. Manual/computerized
09.Grading
Itisdoneaccordingtodifferent
size. Manual/computerized
10.Markermaking
Makerisathinpaperwhich
containsallthecomponentsof
allsizesofaparticularstyle. Manual/computerized
11.FabricspreadingFabricisspreadedinlayform.Manual/computerized
12.Cutting
Tocutfabricaccordingtothe
dimensionbyspecialtypesof
cutter. Manual/computerized
13.Sortingor
bundling
Sortingoutthecomponent
accordingtosizeandforeach
sizemakeindividualbundle. Manual
14.Sewing
Sewingisdonebydifferent
typesofmachinesbythe
operation.Qualityinspectionis
alsodoneinthattime Manual
15.Ironingand
finishing
Garmentsaretreatedbysteam.
Also,severalfinishing
processesaredoneforexample
extraloosethreadcutting. Manual
16.Finalinspection
Shouldmeetspecsgivenby
buyer. Manual
17.Packing Polypacking. Manual
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TextilePrinting:-
Mostofthegarmentsweweararedecoratedwithattractiveprints.
Printingisdonetomakegarmentsattractive&fashionable.Printingisa
techniqueofreproducingtext,images,design,patternormotifusinga
masterform.TextilePrintingistheprocessofapplyingcoloredpatterns
&designstodecoratesurfaceoffabric.
NeededtocompleteprocessofTextilePrinting:-
1.Pre-treatmentoffabricforprinting.
2.Printingpastemakingbyusingprintingingredients.
3.Makingprintimpressiononfabricusingprintingtechniques.
4.Curingordryingoffabric/print.
5.Afterprocesstreatmentorneutralization(soaping,washingif
required).
DirectPrinting:-Itisthemostcommontextileprintingstyle.Print
pasteistransferreddirectlyonfabrictoproduceapattern.Dyestuffs,
thickeners,amountofwateraredissolvedtoprepareprintingpaste.Wood
block,copperroller&screensareexamplesforDirectPrinting.
DischargePrinting:-It’stechnicallyadyeingmethodusedto
produceapatternonfabric.Thefabricisdyed&thenableachingagent
isusedtoremoveordischargethecolorfromspecificareatocreatea
desiredpatternoncloth.Mostlyappliedondarkgroundoffabricwhere
weneedalighterprint.Itworkswellonnaturalfiberlikecotton.
ResistPrinting:-Aresistpasteispaintedonfabricandthenthe
fabricisdyed.Thedyeaffectsonlythosepartsthatarenotcoveredbythe
resistpaste.Afterdyeing,theresistpasteisremovedleavingapatternon
18.Cartooning
Afterpackingthegarmentsare
placedinahardpaperbox.for
exportsoastominimize
damage.Thecartoonscontain
alltheinformationoverthebox
accordingtobuyerspecs. Manual
19.Sendtobuyer
Ifeverythingisok,itissentto
thebuyer. Manual
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adarkbackground.Wax,chemical,paperstencilormechanismisapplied
tofabrictoresistcolorwhiledyeingfabric.TherearetwotypesofResist
Printingaremostlyused.
RollerPrinting:-ItisalsocalledCylinderPrintorMachineprint.
Engravedcoppercylinderorrollerisusedtoprintclothbypowerof
electricity.
StencilPrinting:-Thedesignisfirstlycutinpaperboard,woodor
metalthroughwhichcolorisappliedonthefabric.Thisprintislimitedin
useduetohighcost.
ScreenPrinting:-Itisdoneeitherwithflatorcylindricalscreens
madeofsilk,polyester,nylonormetal.Theprintingpasteispouredon
thescreenandforcedthroughitsunblockedareasontothecloth.Itis
knownasFlatScreenPrintingorRotaryScreenPrintingaccordingto
thetypesofthescreenused.
HeatPrinting:-ThisisalsoknownasHeatTransferPrinting.The
designonapaperistransferredtoafabricbyvaporization.Inheat
transferprinting,adesignisfirstlyprintedonaspecialreleasepaper.
Thentheprintedimageisplacedonthecloth.Afterbeingcooled,the
releasepaperispulledoutandtheimagewillbetransferredtothecloth.
WeneedconsiderthreekeyfactorsduringHeatPrinting.
1.Time(Within13secondsincommon)
2.Temperature(Commonly190ºC)
3.Pressure(atleast60pounds/lbs)
BlotchPrinting:-Itisadirectprintingtechniquewherethe
backgroundcolorandthedesignarebothprintedonawhitefabric.Any
ofthemethodslikeblock,rollerorscreenmaybeused.
SprayPrinting:-Designsmaybepaintedeitherbyhandorwith
assistanceofmachines.Airbrushingdevicesareusedwhichblowor
spraycoloronthecloth.
DigitalTextilePrinting:-ThisisalsoknownasDirect-to-
GarmentPrinting,DTGPrintingorDigitalGarmentPrinting.Thisisa
technologytoprintyourdesignsonfabricdirectlyfromyourcomputer.
Thisisamodifiedinkjettechnology.
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MetallicPrint:-Printingpastecontainingmetallicpowdersisused
toproducesuchprint.Copper,bronzeandaluminiumpowdersareusually
used.Coloroftheprintdependsonthemetalpowderusedintheprint
paste.Forexample:
Copperpowderisusedforcoppercoloredprint
Bronzepowderisusedforgoldcoloredprint
Aluminiumpowderisusedforsilvercoloredprint
RubberPrint:-Rubberisusedasatextileinkforprinting.
PlastisolPrint:-Plastisolisusedasatextileinkforprinting.
TransferPrint:-ItisalsocalledStickerPrint.Theplastisolprintis
alreadypaintedonpaper&willbetransferredontoclothinthefusing
process.
FoilPrint:-TheprintingprocessissimilartoTransferPrint.Foil
papersaretransferredontoclothinthefusingprocess.
GlitterPrint:-GlitterPrintbringssparkletofabricbecauseglitter
powderisused.GlitterPowderisgenerallyPET(polyethylene
terephthalate)withsizeof1/8"to1/256".Itisfoundintosquareand
hexagonshape.
BurnoutPrint:-Acidtypechemicalsareusedinsteadofcolor.This
isappliedonlyonblendedfabricslikePC&CVC.Cottonorother
cellulosicfiberinfabricisburnedoutordestroyedbystrongmineral
acids.
Embroidery:-
Embroideryisatechniqueofdecoratingfabricorothermaterialswith
needleandthreadoryarn.Ingarmentsindustryitisacommontaskfor
decoratingfabric.Normallyembroideryisdoneasbuyerrequirements.
Embroideryisdonewithhand.Butincaseofbulkproductionandfor
complicateddesigncomputerizedembroiderymachineisused.
Embroideryismostoftenusedoncaps,hats,coats,blankets,dressshirts,
denim,stockings,andgolfshirts.Flowchartofembroideryisgivenbelow.
FlowChartofEmbroideryinGarmentsIndustry
Artworkfrombuyer
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↓
InputtoES-65(Software)
↓
Designanalysis
↓
Sendtobuyer
↓
Recommendation&correctionfrombuyer
↓
Sampleprepare
↓
Sendtobuyer
↓
Ifapprovedthenforbulkproduction
Merchandising
Merchandiser:-
Thoseareworkinginthefactorytheyneedtoprepareproductionfile.
Thisisanimportanttaskforhimtostartproduction.Butweseeinmany
ofthefactorymerchandiserfailstodistributecorrectproductionfile&
finallyfacelotsofdifficulties.Sometimethisbringsbigdisasterforthe
order&thenhappensabigloss.Justasimpleexample–Ifcorrect
measurementspecisnotgivenintheproductionfileorgivewrong
samplethennoonecanstopthedisaster.So,needcarefulproductionfile
making&checkeverythingcarefully.
Productionfilegenerallyrequirebelowitems
1.Latestsamplecomments:
Alwaysneedtobeverycarefultogiveupdatedsamplecomments.
Supposebuyergaveppcomments&latertheyaddednewcommentsand
asktofollowitinproduction.Butifmerchandiseisnotawareenoughto
giveadditionalcommentsinthefilethenproductionpeoplemaynot
followthisinstruction.Heremerchandiseristheonlyonepersonwho
knowsthenewinstructionbecauseheisinthecommunicationwiththe
buyer.
2.Sizespec:
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Manytimeitwasseenfinalsizespecisnotprovidedbymistake&then
problemhappen.So,merchandisershouldhavetobecarefulforcorrect
sizespec.Heshouldhavetocheckagain&againtobeconfirmingthat
correctsizespecisgiven.
3.Techpack:
Techpackisthedetailsforproduct.So,needtobecarefulforlatesttech
packwhenheispreparingproductionfile.Becauseitwasseenthatbuyer
changedthetechpackafterppsample&askedtofollowthesamein
productionbutifproductionpeoplefollowblindlythePPsamplethen
mistakewillhappen.
4.Howtomeasure:
Thisisalsoimportantasthesizespecbecauseifhowtomeasureisnot
providedthenpeopleinproductionwilldowrong.Allthecustomersdo
notprovidehowtomeasurewiththetechpackbuthasageneral
instruction.So,thisistobeensuringthathowtomeasureisgivenwith
updatedone.
5.Fabricdetails&refofallkindoffabric:
Detailsoffabricationareimportanttoprovide.Ifthegarmenthas
differentfabricationwithdifferentcolororqualitythenneededtoadd
themwithproductionfile.Mostimportantlyfabricswatchfrombulkhas
togivesothatpeopleinproductionwillnotbeconfused.
6.Posheet:
Ordersheetisthemostimportantdocumentfororderexecution.Some
timeweseebuyerupdatedordersheetwithnewdeliverydateifaskedfor
extension.Butmerchandiserifnotcarefultocheckthequantityalong
withsizeratiothenbigmistakemaywaitlater.Becausesometimebuyer
changesthequantityorratiowithoutanypriornotice.So,productionfile
shouldbeaddedwithcorrectordersheet.
7.Print/embroideryartwork:
Artworkshouldbeaddedwithsizegradingforprint&embroidery.If
possiblecolorartworkismorehelpfulforcolorunderstanding.
8.Testreport:
Garmenttestreportisneededtoaddintheproductionfileforshrinkage
&otherproblem.Iftestisnotrequiredfrombuyerthenfactoryshould
havetocompletein-housetestongarment&keepitintheproduction
file.
Slide 52
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 52
9.Barcodesheetifrequire:
Readablebarcodestickerisimportanttoaddinthefilewithallthe
referencenumber.IfENcodeisdifferentforallcolours&sizesthenall
thereferencenumbershouldhavetogive.
10.Trimcard:
Completetrimcardisashortdetailoftheproduct.Iftrimcardisnot
completeforsomeitemsthencarefullymentionwhatitemisnotgiven.
Generallytrimcardistoprovidefor–Garmentstore,Garmentsewing
section&Garmentfinishing.
11.PPsample:
IfpossiblecolorwisePPsamplemustprovidewiththeproductionfile.
Anychangeifrequireintheproductionwhichismissingintheppsample
thenmerchandiserhastowritethecommentsonthesamplewhatis
neededtoaddorremove.
Finallymarkthesectionwheretodistributepaperdocumentfrom
productionfile.Generallybelowsectionsrequirepaperdocumentfrom
productionfile.
Knittingsection
Dyeingsection
Dyeingfinishing
Cuttingsection
Garmentsewingsection
Garmentstore
Garmentfinishing
GarmentsSample:-
Sampleistheprototypeormodelofthegarment.Itisamodelofwhatthe
bulkproductionisgoingtobedone.Makingasampleisanessentialfirst
stepforeachitem.Besides,garmentsamplemakingisoneofthemost
importantprocessesingarmentsindustrybecauseitwillmakethebuyers
togetattractivenesstowardstheindustry.Generally,buyersplacethe
orderaftertheyaresatisfiedwiththequalityofthesamples.So,ithas
greatimportance.Thisimportanttaskisdonebyaskilfulsampleman
inapparelindustry.
TypesofGarmentSample:-
Therearevarioustypesofgarmentsamplewhicharemadefor
completinganorder.Ingarmentsindustrysamplesaredividedbytwo
Slide 53
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 53
ways.Theyaredevelopmentsamplesandproductionsamples.Andthey
havesubcategories.
A.Developmentsamples:
1.Protosample/Designsample,
2.Fitsample,
3.Photoshootsample
4.Mockupsample
5.Sizesetsample,
6.Salesmansample(SMS),
7.Approvalsample
8.Pre-productionsample(PPS),
B.Productionsamples:
1.Topoverproductionsample(TOP)/Onlinesample,
2.Shipmentsample.
Processofsamplemakinginmerchandising
GarmentsDesignorSketch(ManuallyorComputerized)
↓
BasicBlock(ManuallyorComputerized)
↓
WorkingPattern(ByMachine)
↓
Fabriccutting
↓
Print/Embroidery(Ifrequired)
↓
Sewing
↓
Finishing
↓
SampleGarments(Manually)
↓
ProblemofProductionorProductionRelatedMatter
↓
Costing............................................↓..................................SendtoBuyer
↓
Slide 54
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 54
ApprovedSample
↓
ProductionPattern(ByHandorComputer)
Visualmerchandising:-
Visualmerchandisinggenerallycreateaplantotheircreativeskillsfor
displayingfashionproductsbytheuseofvisualpresentation,marketing
andalsocreatingdifferentpromotionalactivitiestocommunicateand
merchandisewiththetargetcustomers.
Inthefashionindustry,visualordisplaymerchandisingexpertsmainly
helpstoincreasesalesforretailshopandtocatchthebuyer’sattentionby
theuseofdifferentideaslikepromotionalimages,seasonalthemes,
specialoccasiontobasetheupcomingmarketingandwindowdisplay
activitiesaround.
Howtobecomeavisualmerchandiser:
Tobecomeavisualanddisplaymerchandiserandyouwillwanttoapply
tojobinafashionretailposition,somequalificationsandskillsaremust
beneeded.Theseareinbelow:
Educationalbackgroundmustbeneeded
CertificateorDiplomacourseinFashionRetail(Visual
Merchandisingandpromotionaldesign),
Foundationdegreesindisplayordesign,fashionbuyingand
merchandising
Someotherdegreesubjectsthatareincludedinthisjobcareer:
Fashiondesign;
Fineart;
Interiordesign;
Surfacepatterndesign;
Textiles;
3Ddesign.
DIYwindowdisplay:-
Slide 55
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 55
Usesmaterialsinthiscreation
Newspaperforbackground
Fevicol
PaintBrush
SomeChristmasdecorationmaterials
Wastewood(propsdevelopedbycarpenteraccording
requirements)
Brownpaper
Mannequins(male,female)
Fabricfordrapedgarment(drapingbyPoojaKumari)
Somestitchedgarment
Lights
SomeCottonfiberforsnoweffect
Darkwonder
Slide 56
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 56
ChristmasDay
RepublicDay
Slide 57
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 57
Slide 58
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 58
UseofWastefabricinIndustry
Neckpiece&Keyring
Slide 59
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 59
Slide 60
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 60
BIBLIOGRAPHY
http://pratibhasyntex.com/
fashion2apparel.blogspot.com
http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/search/label/Dye
http://www.textileflowchart.com/search/label/Yarn
http://www.textileflowchart.com/2015/07/flow-chart-of-yarn-
finishing-process.html
http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/search/label/Fabric
textilelearner.blogspot.com
Slide 61
SDPS/INTERNSHIPREPORT/2014-2018/8
TH
SEM 61
THANKYOU………..
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