MAIN TOPIC:BROKEN STITCH BY MR.ZAHIR UDDIN MD BABUR QUALITY CONTROLLER(WOVEN) VENUE : WINDY APPARELS Ltd. BERON, ASHULIA DEPZ ROAD, SAVAR DHAKA-1341 DATED : 25/08/2016 “ How To Reduce BROKEN STITCH”
DEFINATION OF BROKEN STITCH Broken Stitching Is Often Caused By Rough Handling. If You See Stitching Is Missing Or Has Been Broken, Workers At Your Factory May Be Rushing To Complete An Order. The Supplier May Also Have Been Provided An Outdated Specification For Sewing. Stitch Issues Will Generally Be Considered A Major Defect For H&M.
TYPES OF BROKEN STITCH style - uLRIK JACKET Broken Stitches - Needle Cutting Broken Stitches - Abrasion Broken Stitches by Chemical Degradation Broken Stitch By Machine Parts
Broken Stitches - Needle Cutting Where the thread is being broken where one seam crosses another seam (ex: bar tacks on top of waistband stitching, seat seam on top of riser seam) resulting in stitch failure. Minimizing broken stitches due to Needle Cutting Use a higher performance Perms Core or D-Core thread. Use a larger diameter thread on operations where the thread is being cut. Make sure the proper stitch balance is being used. On a chain stitch seam on denim, you normally would like to maintain a 60%/40% relationship of Needle thread to lopper thread in the Seam. Use needles with the correct needle point. Change the needles at regular intervals on operations where the Needle Cuts are occurring frequently.
Broken Stitches - ABRASION Where thread on the stitch line is broken during stone-washing, sand blasting, hand sanding, etc. Broken stitches must be repaired by re stitching over the top of the stitch-line. Minimizing broken Stitches due to Abrasion : Use a higher performance Perms Core or D-Core thread. Use a larger diameter thread on operations where excessive abrasion is occurring. Make sure stitches are balance properly. Use a Magic air entangled thread in the Lopper due to its lower seam profile making it less susceptible to abrasion. Monitor the Finishing Cycle for compliance to specs.
Broken Stitches by Chemical Degradation Where thread is being compromised by the chemicals used during laundering resulting in loss or change of color and seam failure. Minimizing broken stitches due to Chemical Degradation: Use a higher performance Parma Core NWT that has greater resistance to chemical degradation. It is recommended to go to larger thread sizes when the Denim Garments will be subject to Harsh Chemical washes. To achieve the best laundering results make sure that the water temperatures and PH Levels are correct and that the proper amounts and sequence of chemical dispersion are within guidelines.
BROKEN STITCH BY M/C PARTS Is Not Used Being Properly Machine Small Parts Minimizing broken stitches due to Machine parts: Used Machine Washer . Used Springs at Bobbin. Used Correct Threading . Used Take Of Spring.(Tension spring)
OPERATOR &M/C PARTS MISSING TYPES OF BROKEN STITCH Machine Washer Springs at Bobbin Correct Threading Take Of Spring Handling Needle Sharp edge Needle Feed Dogs Hole
Machine Washer Don’t Used Machine washer Used Machine Washer JUKI Button Stitch M/C Model –LK1903A-SS JUKI Button Stitch M/C Model –LK1903A-SS
Springs at Bobbin Used Springs At Bobbin Don’t Used Springs At Bobbin
Correct Threading WRONG Threading CORRECT Threading JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B
Take Of Spring(Tension spring) Used Take Of Spring(tension Spring ) Don’t Used Take Of Spring (Tension Spring) JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B
handling Correct Way of Handling Operator Handling problem JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B
NEEDLE Operator Used Bent Needle Operator Don’t Used Bent Needle TYPICAL Plain M/C Model DDL-N/A JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B
SHARPEDGE NEEDLE Operator Use Sharp Edge Needle Operator Don’t Use Sharp Edge Needle JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B
FEED DOGS HOLE Feed Dogs Hole Not Adjusted Correct Setting Feed Dogs Hole TYPICAL Two Needle M/C Model DDL-N/A JUKI Plain M/C Model DDL-8700B
The needle keeps breaking The Solution : This boils down to a single follow-up question, "Are you using the right needle?" Going up or down to the appropriately-numbered size can make a huge difference. Needles are sized from 8 to 18, depending on their use. A size 9 or 11 works best for delicate, lightweight fabrics like chiffon, silk, and organza. A size 14 works best for medium-weight fabrics like flannel, linen, and synthetic suede. And a size 16 (or preferably) 18 is reserved for heavy-weight fabrics like denim. Therefore, using a size 9 needle on denim will inevitably break the needle. Additionally, are you using the right type -- that is, ball point, regular point or wedge point? For reference, you can check a full size chart here.
This three-step checklist can easily solve most machine mishaps. 1. Clean it out: When was the last time you did a thorough top-to-bottom wipe-down of your machine? Dust and lint can quietly and quickly accumulate in the bobbin area and tension assembly, so have your machine professionally serviced regularly. If you use it daily, a weekly cleaning is needed. For weekly use only, clean it once a month. And for occasional monthly use, clean it every three months. 2. Rethread your machine: Yes, even the slightest bump can affect your stitching. Check your bobbin, needle, and thread to make sure everything is in the right place. 3. Check your needle and thread: As we already mentioned, using the right size and type of needle is imperative. Additionally, you should use high-quality thread -- it will have a nice, smooth filament and not be "fuzzy" or uneven in thickness. Thread does have a shelf-life -- although different types age differently -- so keep your collection of spools in rotation and stored properly (out of humidity and direct sunlight).
OUR MODEL LINE DHU% Month- August Month- Jul y
corrective preventive action Hourly Threading, Tension, & Needle Sharp Edge Check Report. Daily Awareness About That Defect. Daily DHU Comparing. Root Cause Analysis & Corrective Action Plan. Daily Top 3 Defect Board In Sewing Line. 7 Pcs System.
EVERY WEEK MEETING WITH ORGANIGATION TOP LEVEL,MID LEVEL&ROOT LEVEL FOR DHU TOP 3 DEFECT . CORRECTION OF ALL GARMENTS DEFECTS .
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Success Edison — holder of over 1,000 patents — had an insane work ethic. He was known to put in 72 hours at a time . So naturally, his definition of success is equally ambitious: " Success is 1% inspiration, 99% perspiration ." INVENTOR THOMAS EDISON RECOGNIZED THAT SUCCESS IS A GRIND