Process sequence of weaving

43,705 views 55 slides Dec 31, 2013
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Process sequence of Process sequence of
weavingweaving

Flow chart of weaving:Flow chart of weaving:
Yarn from spinning departmentYarn from spinning department
Cone windingCone winding
warpingwarping
FoldingFolding
Grey inspectionGrey inspection
Weaving loomWeaving loom
PinningPinning
Drawing-inDrawing-in
Reaching-inReaching-in
DentingDenting
sizingsizing
Tying-inTying-in
Pirn windingPirn winding

Yarn from spinning departmentYarn from spinning department

Doubling & TwistingDoubling & Twisting

Cone WindingCone Winding
Winding is a process of Winding is a process of
transferring yarns from transferring yarns from
ring bobbins, hanks, ring bobbins, hanks,
cones etc into a cones etc into a
convenient form of convenient form of
packages containing packages containing
considerably long length considerably long length
of yarn.of yarn.
The main purpose of The main purpose of
winding or packaging is to winding or packaging is to
form a single yarn form a single yarn
package suitable for the package suitable for the
next operation.next operation.

CreelingCreeling

CreelCreel

CreelingCreeling

WarpingWarping
WarpingWarping is aimed at preparing the is aimed at preparing the
weaver’s beam to be set up on the weaver’s beam to be set up on the
weaving machine. Warping carries out weaving machine. Warping carries out
following operations :following operations :
Creation, out of a limited number of Creation, out of a limited number of
warp threads (creel load), of a warp warp threads (creel load), of a warp
composed of any number of threads composed of any number of threads
with the desired length.with the desired length.
Arrangement of above-mentioned Arrangement of above-mentioned
threads according to the desired threads according to the desired
sequence.sequence.
The industrial warping process can be The industrial warping process can be
carried out according to two different carried out according to two different
technologies:technologies:
Sectional warping (conical drum or Sectional warping (conical drum or
indirect warping).indirect warping).
Beam warping or direct warping Beam warping or direct warping
(preparatory beam warping).(preparatory beam warping).

Sectional warpingSectional warping
• • Sectional warping is Sectional warping is
used for short runs, used for short runs,
especially for fancy especially for fancy
patterned fabrics. patterned fabrics.

Sectional warpingSectional warping
• • In this case, sections of In this case, sections of
the warp which may the warp which may
contain up to 1,000 ends contain up to 1,000 ends
are first wound onto a are first wound onto a
drum tapered with a given drum tapered with a given
cone angle. cone angle.
••So cross wound sections So cross wound sections
are combined on the are combined on the
drum, and thus each drum, and thus each
layer of warp contains the layer of warp contains the
same number of ends on same number of ends on
the drum. the drum.

Sectional warpingSectional warping
Then the warp Then the warp
threads threads
altogether are altogether are
transferred onto transferred onto
a weaver’s beam a weaver’s beam
by unwinding the by unwinding the
drum. drum.

Direct/ High speed/ Beam warpingDirect/ High speed/ Beam warping
Beam warping is used for Beam warping is used for
long runs of grey fabrics.long runs of grey fabrics.
 As an intermediate stage As an intermediate stage
warper’s beams which warper’s beams which
may contain up to 1,000 may contain up to 1,000
ends are produced. ends are produced.
• • Then the threads of 6-12 Then the threads of 6-12
warper’s beam are warper’s beam are
combined at the slashing combined at the slashing
(sizing) stage and wound (sizing) stage and wound
onto a weaver’s beam onto a weaver’s beam
(loom beam).(loom beam).

Direct warpingDirect warping

SizingSizing
Sizing is the application Sizing is the application
of adhesive coating in of adhesive coating in
the warp threads before the warp threads before
weaving. weaving.
The warp yarns can The warp yarns can
withstand the complex withstand the complex
stresses to which they stresses to which they
are subjected in the are subjected in the
weaving machine.weaving machine.

SizingSizing
The size is usually a The size is usually a
starch paste containing starch paste containing
softening and other softening and other
ingredients. ingredients.
• • Starch sizes are usually Starch sizes are usually
not satisfactory for not satisfactory for
synthetic fiber threads synthetic fiber threads
and have to be replaced and have to be replaced
by special sizes (often by special sizes (often
containing synthetic containing synthetic
polymers) which will polymers) which will
adhere better to the adhere better to the
threads.threads.

Loom preparationLoom preparation

Before the weaver’s beam is mounted on the loom, each Before the weaver’s beam is mounted on the loom, each
end is threaded through a heald eye and the reed; it also end is threaded through a heald eye and the reed; it also
supports a drop wire. supports a drop wire.
To pass the warp To pass the warp
threads through the threads through the
hole of the drop wire hole of the drop wire
is known asis known as pinning pinning. .
If a single warp If a single warp
breaks drop wire will breaks drop wire will
drop. As a result drop. As a result
Machine will stop Machine will stop
instantly to avoid end instantly to avoid end
missing.missing.

Pinning and drawing Pinning and drawing

DraftingDrafting
DraftingDrafting is known as is known as
the selection of heald the selection of heald
frames or harnesses frames or harnesses
for individual warp for individual warp
threads according to threads according to
the design.the design.
Drawing in:Drawing in: To pull To pull
the warp threads the warp threads
through the heald eye through the heald eye
of the heald wire.of the heald wire.

Healds and frameHealds and frame

Threading of heddlesThreading of heddles

DentingDenting
What is Reed?What is Reed?
The reed is a comb-like The reed is a comb-like
structure consisting of structure consisting of
regularly spaced wires. The regularly spaced wires. The
word dent is commonly used to word dent is commonly used to
describe the space between describe the space between
two reed wires.two reed wires.
Denting: Denting: Denting means Denting means
drawing the warp thread drawing the warp thread
through the dent as required through the dent as required
by reed plan and this by reed plan and this
determines more accurately determines more accurately
the width of the fabric and the the width of the fabric and the
ends per cm.ends per cm.
Drawing threads through dent with hook

Tying-in Tying-in
• • Tying-in is used when a fabric is Tying-in is used when a fabric is
being mass produced. being mass produced.
• • The tail end of the warp from the The tail end of the warp from the
exhausted weaver’s beam is exhausted weaver’s beam is
tied to the beginning of the tied to the beginning of the
new warp.new warp.
• • Therefore, if every end on the Therefore, if every end on the
new beam is tied to its new beam is tied to its
corresponding end on the old corresponding end on the old
beam, the drawing-in process beam, the drawing-in process
can be omitted. can be omitted.
• • Following the tying-in process, Following the tying-in process,
all knots are pulled through the all knots are pulled through the
drop wires, heddles and the drop wires, heddles and the
reed. The loom is now ready reed. The loom is now ready
for operation. for operation.

WeavingWeaving

Fabric inspectionFabric inspection

FoldingFolding

BalingBaling

DeliveryDelivery

Reference books of weavingReference books of weaving
Weaving By M.K TalukdarWeaving By M.K Talukdar
Weaving conversion of yarn to fabric. By Weaving conversion of yarn to fabric. By
Lord & Mahmood.Lord & Mahmood.
Hand book of cotton weaving. By Mir Hand book of cotton weaving. By Mir
PublisherPublisher
Weaving mechanism. By BanerjeeWeaving mechanism. By Banerjee
Principle of Weaving. By RobinsonPrinciple of Weaving. By Robinson
Weaving calculation by R Sen GuptaWeaving calculation by R Sen Gupta

Basic motions and essential parts of a loomBasic motions and essential parts of a loom

Basic motions and essential parts of a loomBasic motions and essential parts of a loom
 The warp unwound from the The warp unwound from the weaver’s beamweaver’s beam passes round the passes round the
back restback rest (back bearer) and comes to the (back bearer) and comes to the heald framesheald frames
(harnesses) , which are responsible for separating the warp sheet (harnesses) , which are responsible for separating the warp sheet
for the purpose of shed formation. for the purpose of shed formation.
A A drop wiredrop wire signals the loom to stop immediately after a warp end signals the loom to stop immediately after a warp end
breaks off.breaks off.
 It then passes through the It then passes through the reedreed (swinging frame in front of the (swinging frame in front of the
heddles), which holds the threads at uniform spacing and is also heddles), which holds the threads at uniform spacing and is also
responsible for beating-up the last inserted pick.responsible for beating-up the last inserted pick.
The cloth then passes over the The cloth then passes over the front rest front rest (breast beam), round the (breast beam), round the
take-up rollertake-up roller, and is wound onto the , and is wound onto the cloth rollercloth roller (cloth beam or (cloth beam or
merchandise beam).merchandise beam).
In conclusion, the warp from the beam is fed to the weaving zone In conclusion, the warp from the beam is fed to the weaving zone
where it is converted into fabric and this fabric is then taken - up on where it is converted into fabric and this fabric is then taken - up on
a cloth roll.a cloth roll.

Major reference points on a weaving machineMajor reference points on a weaving machine
The front of the machine, where the fabric beam is The front of the machine, where the fabric beam is
mounted is also called “weaver’s side.mounted is also called “weaver’s side.
The back of the machine, where the warp beam is The back of the machine, where the warp beam is
placed is called “warp side ".placed is called “warp side ".
Facing the machine from front, the right of the observer Facing the machine from front, the right of the observer
indicates the right side of the weaving machine. This is indicates the right side of the weaving machine. This is
the side where the pick is received (receiving side). the side where the pick is received (receiving side).
 The left side, where the pick is inserted from, is called The left side, where the pick is inserted from, is called
the picking side.the picking side.
 The warp yarns are numbered starting from the left side The warp yarns are numbered starting from the left side
of the weaving machine. of the weaving machine.
 The harness frame numbering starts from the front side The harness frame numbering starts from the front side
of the loom. of the loom.

Essential Motions of a weaving loomEssential Motions of a weaving loom
Primary motions of weavingPrimary motions of weaving: In order to : In order to
interlace warp and weft threads to interlace warp and weft threads to
produce a fabric on any type of loom, produce a fabric on any type of loom,
three operations are necessary:three operations are necessary:
1.1.Shedding Shedding
2.2.Picking or filling or weft insertionPicking or filling or weft insertion
3.3.Beating upBeating up
Secondary motions of weavingSecondary motions of weaving::
4. Warp let-off4. Warp let-off
5. Take-up5. Take-up

Tertiary motionsTertiary motions
Warp protector motionWarp protector motion
Weft Change motionWeft Change motion
Warp stop motionWarp stop motion

Primary motions of weavingPrimary motions of weaving
11. . Shedding:Shedding:
separating the warp separating the warp
threads into two threads into two
layers to form a layers to form a
tunnel known as the tunnel known as the
shedding.shedding.
Sley Race
Shed/ Tunnel

Picking:Picking: passing the weft thread through passing the weft thread through
the shed.the shed.
The filling yarn The filling yarn
emerges through a emerges through a
hole in the shuttle hole in the shuttle
as it moves across as it moves across
the loom. A single the loom. A single
crossing of the crossing of the
shuttle from one shuttle from one
side of the loom to side of the loom to
the other is known the other is known
as a pick. as a pick.

Shuttle with quill or pirnShuttle with quill or pirn
The filling yarn is The filling yarn is
inserted through the inserted through the
shed by a small shed by a small
carrier device called a carrier device called a
shuttle. The shuttle is shuttle. The shuttle is
normally pointed at normally pointed at
each end to allow each end to allow
passage through the passage through the
shed. In a traditional shed. In a traditional
shuttle loom, the shuttle loom, the
filling yarn is wound filling yarn is wound
onto a quill or pirnonto a quill or pirn

Beating – up/BatteningBeating – up/Battening
Pushing the newly inserted Pushing the newly inserted
length of weft, known as the length of weft, known as the
pick, into the already woven pick, into the already woven
fabric at a point known as the fabric at a point known as the
fell.fell.
BatteningBattening: The pressing of filling : The pressing of filling
yarn by the reed against the yarn by the reed against the
portion of the fabric that has portion of the fabric that has
already been formed. already been formed.
Conventional shuttle looms Conventional shuttle looms
can operate at speeds of about can operate at speeds of about
150 to 160 picks per minute150 to 160 picks per minute

Two additional operations Two additional operations are essential if weaving is to be are essential if weaving is to be
continuous:continuous:
4. Warp control (or let 4. Warp control (or let
- off):- off): this motion this motion
delivers warp to the delivers warp to the
weaving area at the weaving area at the
required rate and at a required rate and at a
suitable constant suitable constant
tension by unwinding tension by unwinding
it from a weaver’s it from a weaver’s
beam.beam.

5. Cloth control (or 5. Cloth control (or
take - up):take - up): this this
motion withdraws motion withdraws
fabric from the fabric from the
weaving area at the weaving area at the
constant rate that will constant rate that will
give the required pick give the required pick
spacing and then spacing and then
winds it onto a roller.winds it onto a roller.

Weft insertion mechanismWeft insertion mechanism
This motion follows This motion follows
the shedding motion. the shedding motion.
On conventional On conventional
looms the filling yarn looms the filling yarn
is inserted by means is inserted by means
of a shuttle on of a shuttle on
which a pirn is which a pirn is
mounted. mounted.
As the shuttle travels As the shuttle travels
a length of weft yarn a length of weft yarn
is laid down along the is laid down along the
path of the shuttle. path of the shuttle.

Cone under picking mechanismCone under picking mechanism

Tappet shedding mechanismTappet shedding mechanism

Jacquard weaving machineJacquard weaving machine

Warp let-off mechanismWarp let-off mechanism

Drop wire & ReedDrop wire & Reed

Twin loom beamsTwin loom beams

Take-up MotionTake-up Motion

Classification of loomClassification of loom
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